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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Abelmoschus esculentus, also known as Okra is native to Africa and a beautiful relative of Hibiscus, was brought to North America in the 1600s. This tropical plant quickly became popular in the Deep South both as a side dish and as a thickening for gumbo and stews. It can, however, thrive in any climate where corn will grow. Depending on the cultivar, the large-flowered, fast-growing plants reach 2 to 6 feet (60 cm to 1.8 m) tall. Varieties with colorful stems and leaves, such as Abelmoschus esculentus ‘Burgundy’, make attractive garden borders.
Planting Okra needs full sun. It will grow in ordinary garden soil but does best in fertile loam, particularly where a nitrogen-fixing crop, such as early peas, grew previously. In the South, plant the first crop in the early spring and a second crop in June. In short-season areas, start plants indoors 6 weeks before setting them out (3 to 4 weeks after the last frost date). Sow two seeds per peat pot and clip off the weaker seedling.
When seeding Okra directly in the ground, wait until after the soil has warmed and the air temperature is at least 60°F (16°C). Use fresh seed, and soak it overnight or nick each seed coat with a file to encourage germination. Sow seed 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) deep in light soil and 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in heavy soil; spacing is 3 inches (7.5 cm) apart in rows 3 feet (90 cm) apart. Thin seedlings to 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm) apart, always leaving the strongest of the young plants.
Growing When okra is 4 inches (10 cm) tall, mulch to keep out weeds and conserve moisture. Water during dry spells. Every 3 to 4 weeks, side-dress with compost or feed with compost tea. In areas with long, hot summers, cut the plants back almost to ground level in midsummer and fertilize to produce a second crop. Problems Okra seldom succumbs to pests or diseases. Hand pick any stinkbugs that appear; these light green, shield-shaped bugs cause misshapen pods. Fusarium wilt, a soilborne disease, is sometimes a problem in hot regions. If the disease causes leaves to yellow and wilt, pull and destroy affected plants. Crop rotation is the best preventive measure.
Harvesting About 50 to 60 days after planting, edible pods will start to appear. They are tough when mature, so harvest daily with a sharp knife when they are no more than finger sized and when stems are still tender and easy to cut. Pick frequently and the plants will keep producing until killed by frost. Be sure to remove and compost any mature pods you might have missed earlier.
Many people find their skins are sensitive to the pods’ prickly spines, so wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting, or plant a spineless variety such as Abelmoschus esculentus ‘Clemson Spineless’.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Did you know that you can grow orchids in your garden, in the ground? Most people think of orchids as showy, greenhouse beauties, but those plants represent only one type of orchids. Among the Orchid family, there are over 200 species that flourish in the soil. These plants are classified as terrestrial orchids and grow wild in subtropical and tropical areas of America.
Considered woodland plants, terrestrial orchids share some characteristics with their greenhouse counterparts. These plants come in many shapes and size, produce blossoms in a rainbow of colors, and are famous for filling the night air with wonderful aromas. Unlike their tropical cousins, however, these woodland flowers do not produce aerial roots or stems that climb trees and bushes. They prefer to keep their roots firmly planted in the earth.
Terrestrial orchids don’t need a lot of fertilizer, either. As a matter of fact, most of these ground-loving plants can’t handle a lot of fertilizer. Usually all that’s needed to feed these flowers is leafy compost at planting and later as the plants mature. If your soil is poor in nutrients and you must fertilize, use a very weak solution. Take the food you would normally give flowers and dilute it to one-quarter strength.
One difference between terrestrial orchids and other orchids that often surprises people is their ability to tolerate cold temperatures. Many of these species survive well in freezing temperatures, and some actually require sub-freezing conditions in order to bloom. Like tulips and other bulb plants, these orchids go dormant through the cold weather months and grow and bloom again when spring arrives. Terrestrial orchids can be categorized into two general groups: individual growers and clumps/tuft growers.
Within the individual growers (also called solitary) there are two distinct growth habits. One group produces both their leaves and their flowers from one stem, which sprouts from an underground tuber or corm. This single stem is leafy and produces an inflorescence at its end. After the blossom is completely open and seeding is complete, these orchids drop their leaves, or become deciduous. The tubers or corms experience an annual dormant period, then continue their life cycle.
The other group of solitary growing terrestrial orchids produces a separate leaf stem and a separate flower stem. Each of these stems sprouts from a distinct bud on the rhizome. An example of this type of growth can be growth can be found in flowers among the Nervilia, Eulophia and Pachystoma genera. Terrestrial orchids that grow erect are usually evergreen and keep their leaves for a year or more. Leafy pseudobulbs provide new growth, usually from the base, as seen in Phaius, Liparis and Acanthephippium genera.Plants among the genera of Macodes and Zeuxine provide beautiful examples of creeping Terrestrial orchids. The rhizomes of these plants are usually fleshy with long internodes. Axillary buds grow below the apex of the rhizomes and produce upright leaf and flower spikes. After flowering ends, and sometimes after the plant loses its leaves, new growth begins. The original upright spike falls and is absorbed by the rhizome.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Have you ever grown garlic or onions and been distressed to see that the plant has stunted gnarled, yellow streaked leaves? Upon closer inspection, you don’t really see any insects. Well, it’s quite possible they’re there but just too small to see without a microscope. You are probably looking at wheat curl mite damage. What are wheat curl mites and what wheat curl mite control is there? Read on to learn more.
What are Wheat Curl Mites? Wheat curl mites (Aceria tulipae) are tiny, almost microscopic plant feeding mites. They have 2 pairs of legs near the head which is perched atop a cigar-shaped body. Their favorite food, as the name suggests, is wheat, but they also infiltrate fields of onions and garlic. Wheat curl mites on plants become active in the spring and their populations virtually explode as temps increase; 75-85 degrees F. (23-29 C.) are prime reproduction temperatures. They lay their eggs in rows along leaf veins and when conditions are optimal, an entire generation can be completed in 10 days.
Wheat Curl Mite Damage Not only do wheat curl mites cause twisted, yellow streaked leaves, but their feeding causes onion and garlic plants that are being stored to desiccate. Equally as damaging, wheat curl mites act as a vector for Wheat Streak Mosaic Virus, which is one of the most destructive diseases of wheat crops. They are also vectors of the High Plains Virus, which afflicts both corn and wheat in the Great Plains region, and Triticum Mosaic Virus, which is often seen in conjunction with Wheat Streak Mosaic Virus and can decimate a crop. Because of the serious damage and loss of capitol, treating wheat curl mites is of paramount importance. Sadly, there is very little wheat curl mite control at this juncture.
Wheat Curl Mite Control Wheat curl mites on plants are found on the terminal leaves and move onto each new leaf as it emerges. Once the wheat dries down, the mites gather on the flag leaves where they are picked up by the wind and carried to other food sources, such as other grasses and corn. Once these die back, the wind carries the mites onto newly emerged winter wheat. Wheat curl mites can live for several days at temps below 0 degrees F. (-17 C.) and for several months at near freezing temperatures. This means they are present for an extended period of time, and ready and willing to do significant damage to successive crops from spring into winter. So how do you go about treating wheat curl mites?
There are no blanket controls for wheat curl mites. Flood irrigation in commercial crops or heavy winter rains can reduce field populations. Commercial growers treat seed garlic with hot water to reduce seed infestation and destroy volunteer wheat at least two weeks prior to planting winter wheat. No chemical treatments have been determined to eradicate the mites. Most home growers don’t plant wheat, but many of us grow onions and garlic. Don’t plant successive onion or garlic crops in the home garden that will just begin the mite reproduction process anew.
Treat bulbs prior to planting with hot water to reduce the population of mites. Soak the bulbs at 130 degrees F. (54 C.) for 10-20 minutes or at 140 degrees F. (60 C.) for 10-15 minutes. You can also try soaking affected garlic cloves for 24 hours in 2% soap (not detergent) and 2% mineral oil solution. Some sites suggest soaking cloves in alcohol for a few minutes prior to planting to kill any adult mites.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Anytime anything unusual occurs on a plant, this gives gardeners a reason to be concerned about their plant. When a plant gets brown edges on leaves or brown leaf tips, a gardener’s first thought may be that this is a disease or pest that is attacking the plant. This is not always the case.
What Causes Brown Edges on Leaves of Plants? When there are whole brown leaves on a plant, this can indicate several dozen problems; but when just the sides or tips of the leaf turn brown, there is only one problem — the plant is stressed. Most commonly brown leaf tips or brown edges on leaves are caused by the plant not getting enough water. There are several reasons why this may happen.
There may be too little natural water falling. If this is what is causing the sides of the leaf to turn brown, you should supplement the rainfall with manual watering. The roots are constricted and unable to reach out for water. This cause of brown leaf tips happens most frequently with container grown plants, but can happen with plants in the ground in particularly heavy clay soils that may act like a container. Either increase watering or replant the plant so that the roots have more room to grow. The soil does not hold onto the water.
If you live in an area that has sandy soil, the water may simply be draining away too fast and this may be causing brown edges on leaves. Improve the soil with organic material which will hold onto the water better. In the meantime, increase the frequency of watering. The roots may be damaged. If the area where the plant is has been flooded by water or if the soil around the plant is too compacted, this can cause root damage. When the roots become damaged, there is not enough of a root system for the plant to properly take up enough water. In this case, correct the problem that is causing the root damage and then prune back the plant some to reduce its water needs while the root system recovers.
Another reason for the sides of a leaf to turn brown is a high salt content in the soil. This can either be natural in the soil, such as from living close to the ocean, or this can happen through over fertilizing. If you live near a source of salt water, there will be very little you can do to correct the problem. If you suspect that you have over fertilized, reduce the amount of fertilizer and increase the amount of watering for a few weeks to help wash the salt away. While brown leaf tips and brown edges on leaves can be alarming, it is, for the most part, an easily fixed problem.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Transplant shock in plants is almost unavoidable. Let’s face it, plants were not designed to be moved from place to place, and when we humans do this to them, it is bound to cause some problems. But, there are a few things to know about how to avoid transplant shock and cure plant transplant shock after it has occurred. Let’s look at these.
How to Avoid Transplant Shock Disturb the roots as little as possible – Unless the plant is root bound, you should do as little as possible to the rootball when moving the plant from one location to the next. Do not shake the dirt off, bump the rootball or rough up the roots.
Bring as much of the roots as possible – Along the same lines as the tip above for plant preparation, preventing shock means when digging up the plant, make sure as much of the roots as possible is brought up with the plant. The more roots that come with the plant, the less likely transplant shock in plants will set in. Water thoroughly after transplanting – An important transplant shock preventer is to make sure that your plant receives plenty of water after you move the plant. This is a good way how to avoid transplant shock and will help the plant settle in to its new location. Always make sure the rootball stays moist when transplanting – For this transplant shock preventer when moving the plant, make sure that the rootball stays moist in-between locations. If the rootball dries out at all, the roots in the dry area will get damaged.
How to Cure Plant Transplant Shock While there is no sure-fire way to cure plant transplant shock, there are things you can do to minimize the transplant shock in plants. Add some sugar – Believe or not, studies have shown that a weak sugar and water solution made with plain sugar from the grocery store given to a plant after transplanting can help recovery time for transplant shock in plants. It can also be used as a transplant shock preventer if applied at the time of transplanting. It only helps with some plants but, as this will not harm the plant, it is worth a try. Trim back the plant – Trimming back the plant allows the plant to focus on regrowing its roots. In perennials, trim back about one-third of the plant.
In annuals, if the plant is a bush type, trim back one-third of the plant. If it is a plant with a main stem, cut off half of each leaf. Keep roots moist – Keep the soil well watered, but make sure that the plant has good drainage and is not in standing water. Wait patiently – Sometimes a plant just needs a few days to recover from transplant shock. Give it some time and care for it as you normally would and it may come back on its own. Now that you know a little more about how to avoid transplant shock and how to hopefully cure plant transplant shock, you know with a little plant preparation, preventing shock should be an easier task.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
How much cold will kill a plant? Not much, although this is usually dependent on the hardiness of the plant as well as the climate. Typically, temperatures falling below freezing will quickly damage or even kill many types of plants. However, with prompt care, many of these cold damaged plants can be rescued. Better still, protecting plants from freezing cold and frost before damage occurs is generally a good idea.
How Much Cold Will Kill a Plant? How much cold will kill a plant is not an easy question to answer. Be sure to look up the cold hardiness for the plant in question before leaving the plant outside. Some plants can survive sub-freezing temperatures for months while others cannot take temperatures below 50 F. (10 C.) for more than a few hours.
What Happens to Cold Damaged Plants? While many people ask how much cold will kill a plant, the real question should be how much freezing will kill a plant. Freeze damage to plant tissue can be detrimental to plants. Light frost typically doesn’t cause major damage, with exception to very tender plants, but hard frost freezes water in plant cells, causing dehydration and damage to cell walls. Cold injury is more likely to occur as the sun comes up. As a result of these damaged cell walls, the plant defrosts too quickly, killing leaves and stems. Young trees or those with thin bark can also be affected by cold temperatures. While not always visible until spring, frost crack results from sudden drops in nighttime temperature following the daytime heating from the sun. Unless these cracks are ragged or torn, however, they usually heal themselves.
Saving Frozen Plants In less severe cases, cold damaged plants can be saved. Frost crack damage in trees that require repair can usually be saved by carefully cutting away the torn or loose bark. Smoothing out the edges with a knife will allow the tree to form a callous on its own. To help minimize frost damage to other woody plants, lightly mist foliage before the sun hits them. Likewise, potted plants can be moved to another location away from direct sunlight. Unless damaged plants are moved indoors or another sheltered area, do not attempt to prune damaged leaves or stems. This actually offers additional protection should another cold spell occur. Instead, wait until spring to cut away the damaged areas. Prune dead stems all the way back. Live stems, however, need only the damaged areas cut back, as these will eventually regrow once warm temperatures return. For soft-stemmed plants suffering from cold injury, immediate pruning may be necessary, as their stems are more prone to rotting. Cold damaged plants can be watered and given a boost of liquid fertilizer to help aid in their recovery.
Protecting Plants from Cold and Frost While saving frozen plants is possible, freeze damage to plant tissue and other cold injuries can often be prevented. When frost or freezing conditions are expected, you can protect tender plants by covering them with sheets or burlap sacks. These should be removed once the sun returns the following morning. Also, potted plants should be moved to a sheltered location, preferably indoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
One of the biggest and most popular problems with regard to gardening is under watering plants. Too little water for a plant means it is not getting the nutrients it needs from the water or the soil. So how can you tell plants have too little water? Keep reading to learn more.
Under Watering Plants in the Garden Everyone is aware that there can be drought conditions. Throughout the summer, there are plenty of times when it doesn’t rain for weeks on end. During these times, you have to water your plants because without the necessary water, plants will dwarf, not produce or worse, die. Under watering plants is the worst thing you could do.
Planting your garden in an area that has trouble holding onto water, such as a sandy area, especially during the summer months, means you will have plants affected by not enough water. This is because the natural drainage of the area will leave too little water for a plant. Well drained soil is good because you do not want to overwater plants either, but there is such a thing as too well drained.
How Can You Tell Plants Have Too Little Water? Plants affected by not enough water will have yellowing leaves or dried leaves toward the bottom of the plant. If you see this happening, you are probably under watering plants. Too little water for a plant makes it conserve what little water it has by keeping the stalk green and the roots moist, but the leaves will turn yellow and wilt, eventually drying up.
Plants affected by not enough water will also start showing some root at the surface. The ground around the plants will be cracked, and you can be assured that your plant roots are not getting the moisture or nutrients they need to grow properly – especially container grown plants. Make sure you water your plants so that they do not have difficulty producing the fruits and vegetables you are attempting to achieve.
Finally, too little water for a plant means that the plant will eventually die. If you want to make sure your plants live long and healthy, you need to be sure that you supply enough water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Just like people, plants are known to feel under the weather now and then. One of the more common signs of ailment is yellowing leaves. When you see leaves turning yellow, it’s time to put your Sherlock hat on and do some sleuthing to find the possible cause and solution. Among the reasons why plant leaves are yellow are environmental conditions, cultural reasons, pests or disease, and even the medium in which the plant grows.
Common Reasons for Leaves Turning Yellow There are many conditions that affect plant growth. Plants are susceptible to temperature variations, sensitive to chemicals and excesses of nutrient, require specific soil compositions and pH levels, have varying lighting needs, are prey to certain pests and diseases, and many other factors influence their health.
Yellowing leaves on plants can be a sign of any of these out of balance or even certain nutritional or chemical influences. Plants don’t have facial expressions so they, therefore, can’t express discomfort or displeasure the way we can. What they can do is show dissatisfaction with a condition by signaling with their leaves. So when you find out why plant leaves turn yellow, you can start triaging your ill plant and nurse it back to health. Yellowing leaves on plants may often be a sign of too little or too much water or nutrients which can affect plant performance.
Your plant may also be located in too much light where it is scorching, or too little light where it is fading due to an inability to photosynthesize properly. Yellowing also occurs due to blatant physical damage. Age is another cause when plant leaves are yellow. It is quite usual for many types of plants to lose the older leaves as the new ones arrive. Older foliage will turn yellow and often wither before it drops off. Winter dormancy is another condition with which most are familiar that makes yellow plant leaves. Of course, yellow plant leaves may not be the only hue experienced, as autumnal displays of red, orange, bronze and rust are common sights.
Why Plant Leaves Turn Yellow in Containers Because of the closed environment in container plants, the conditions must be carefully controlled. There is a limited amount of space, area to store moisture, nutrient in the medium, and lighting and temperature must be considered for each species of potted plant. Our houseplants often have leaves turning yellow due to nutrient deficiency or excess salt in the soil from too much fertilizer.
It may be necessary to change the soil or leach it with large amounts of water to correct the balance. Of course, changing the soil can trigger a condition called transplant shock, which also causes yellowing and dropping leaves. Indoor plants are often tropical in nature and something as simple as changing the plant’s location can produce yellowing leaves on plants which drop off the specimen. This is often due to stress but can also indicate low light or exposure to a draft. The pH may also be too high, causing a condition called chlorosis. It is a good idea to use a pH meter in potted plants to ensure the correct growing conditions. Overhead watering is yet another cause for yellow “water spots” on plants like gloxinia, African violet and several other species of plants with slightly furred foliage.
When Plant Leaves are Yellow from Pests or Disease Pinpointing the causes of yellowed leaves can be quite difficult due to all the potential causes. One thing we haven’t gone over are pests and disease. Sucking insects attack plants inside and outside. These encompass: Mites Aphids Mealybugs Thrips Scale Whiteflies
Many of these insects are too tiny to see with the naked eye and are identified by the plant’s response to their feeding activity. The insects are robbing the plant of its sap, which is the life blood of the plant. The plant’s response is a reduction in overall health including stippled and yellowing leaves. Leaves may crinkle at the edges and fall off. In most cases, repeatedly washing the plant to remove the insects or using a horticultural soap or neem oil can combat these little pirates. Root diseases are often found in root bound plants or in soils with poor drainage.
Any attack on roots can limit the ability of the plant to uptake moisture and nutrients, severely affecting its health. Roots may simply rot away, leaving the plant with minimal ways to sustain themselves. Withering, fading leaves are a common sight when roots are under attack by root rot disease or even root nematodes. As you can see, there are many causes for yellowing foliage. It is best to familiarize yourself with your plant’s specific needs so you can consider each cultural condition carefully and unearth possible causes. It takes patience, but your plants will love you for it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
Scientific Name Vachellia farnesiana (L.) Wight & Arn.
Common Names Mimosa Bush, Needle Bush, Cassie, Cassie Flower, Ellington Curse, Fragrant Acacia, Farnese Wattle, Huisache, Ironwood, Mimosa Bush, Opopanax, Prickly, Prickly Moses, Prickly Mimosa, Scented Wattle, Sweet Acacia, Sweet Wattle, Thorny Acacia, Yellow Mimosa, Briar Bush, Dead Finish, Downs Mimosa, False Mesquite, Mimosa Wattle, Perfumed Wattle, Sponge Flower Synonyms Mimosa farnesiana (basionym), Acacia farnesiana, Acacia minuta, Acacia smallii, Pithecellobium minutum, Vachellia densiflora Scientific Classification Family: Fabaceae Subfamily: Mimosoideae Tribe: Acacieae Genus: Vachellia
Flower Color: Yellow to orange Bloom Time: Autumn through to spring Description Vachellia farnesiana is a spreading shrub, up to 9.8 feet (3 m) tall. Branches grow in a zigzag shape and are usually grey-brown with prominent white spots. The yellowish-green to pure green leaves are ferny, with 1-6 pairs of leaf ‘branches’ each with 5-20 pairs of narrow, rounded leaflets, up to 0.3 inch (8 mm) long. Thorns are found in pairs at the base of each leaf and can grow up to 4 inches (10 cm). The golden yellow to orange flowers are ball-shaped, up to 0.4 inch (1 cm) wide and grow on stalks. Flowering occurs throughout the year, but is most abundant from autumn through to spring.
How to Grow and Care Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although Acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time. Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system. During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water. Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth. Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale. Origin Native to southern United States, Mexico, Central America, the Caribbean and northern South America.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月26日
Dummer. ゛☀
Scientific Name Nymphaea lotus L.
Common Names Tiger Lotus, White Lotus, Egyptian White Water-Lily, Egyptian Lotus, Egyptian Water-Lily, White Egyptian Lotus, White Water-Lily Synonyms Castalia lotus, Castalia mystica, Castalia thermalis, Leuconymphaea lotus, Nymphaea acutidens, Nymphaea aegyptiaca, Nymphaea ×boucheana, Nymphaea dentata, Nymphaea hypotricha, Nymphaea leucantha, Nymphaea ortgiesiana, Nymphaea reichardiana, Nymphaea thermalis, Nymphaea zenkeri Scientific Classification Family: Nymphaeaceae Genus: Nymphaea Subgenus: Lotos
Flower Color: White Bloom Time: October to January Description Nymphaea lotus is an aquatic, perennial, flowering plant, up to 17.7 inches (45 cm) tall, with lily pads which float on the water, and blossoms which rise above the water. The flower is white and sometimes tinged with pink, up to 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter.
How to Grow and Care Like any other perennial, each different Water Lily may have specific needs when it comes to their sunlight, soil, fertilization, water depth and pruning requirements. When shopping for Water Lilies, be sure to check the requirements of that specific plant, before you decide that you must have it! Generally, Water Lilies require a minimum of four to five hours of full sun each day to produce the most blooms. They should be planted in a large, wide pot, using a slightly acidic mixture of clay and loam with a pH of 6.1-7.0. Commercial potting mixes often contain amendments that float, so if you are using a commercial mix be sure that it is specifically for aquatic plants! Adding a few goldfish to your pond will take care of most insect pests that attack aquatic plants as well as devouring the mosquito larvae. Origin Native to Egypt, central and west Africa, and Madagascar.
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