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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
America’s most popular flower is also one of the very oldest flowers in cultivation. There are over 2,000 different rose varieties to lure us with their history and fragrance. This is because the rose, like the orchid, cross-breeds readily—a trait exploited first by nature, and then by horticulturalists. Today, we can choose from old-fashioned favorites, as well as modern varieties that are the result of intensive breeding programs throughout the world. The rose is a flower with a rich past, and an exciting future.
Finding your way through the rose’s large extended family can be both confusing and intimidating. Damasks, musks, gallicas, centifolias, hybrid perpetuals, Bourbons, hybrid teas, ramblers and climbers—even the most distinguished rosarians have a difficult time determining which rose is which. Tracing the history of a particular rose can be a fascinating adventure, but it is hardly an exact science. The old roses have cross-bred so many times, and so many varieties have been lost to time, that it is often impossible to uncover the exact parentage. If you are one of the many who become possessed by roses, you may eventually find it important to know the difference between a gallica and a Bourbon. But until that point, our advice is not to worry about it. The important thing is to select a rose that you find beautiful, and that suits your garden.
Roses are usually grouped into one of two broad categories: old roses and modern roses. Old roses are those varieties discovered or developed prior to the introduction of the hybrid tea rose in 1867. But like everything else in the world of roses, when it comes to determining how a particular rose should be classified, it’s not always crystal clear. It is generally agreed that “old roses” include species or wild roses; albas; Bourbons; moss roses; China roses; Noisettes; Portland roses; rugosa roses; Scotch roses; centifolias; hybrid pimpinellifolias; damasks; gallicas; hybrid perpetuals; tea roses; and musk roses. Those classified as modern varieties are hybrid teas; floribundas; polyanthas; grandifloras; miniatures and dwarfs; modern shrub and landscape roses; climbers and ramblers; and rugosa hybrids.
Why choose an old-fashioned rose over a modern hybrid? Many of the old varieties offer more fragrance, more complex and interesting blooms, greater disease resistance, easier care and more interesting forms. But modern roses can offer all-season blooms, and a much broader range of colors and flower forms. Some are also far more cold- hardy and disease-resistant than any of the old-fashioned varieties. How to Select a Rose There are thousands of beautiful roses, far more than any of us will ever have the opportunity to see, much less grow. When choosing a rose for your garden, there are five considerations that should make the selection process easier.
Growth Habit Though roses are usually planted for their flowers, it is important to know what the plant as well as the flowers will look like, in order to determine where it will fit in your garden. Hybrid teas and floribundas usually grow no more than 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) high. Their form is coarse, and hardly very appealing, but they do have the ability to produce an abundance of flowers throughout the growing season. The hybrid tea has large, single blooms on long, stiff stems, whereas the floribunda has slightly smaller clusters of blooms on stems that are not as stiff.
Miniature roses have tiny flowers, and may be only 10 to 36 inches (25 to 90 cm) tall. Dwarf roses grow up to 2 feet (60 cm) high, and their flowers are produced in clusters. Shrub roses, including both the old-fashioned and the modern types, and ground-cover or landscape roses, are generally large and leafy. Climbers and ramblers grow from 7 feet to 30 feet (2.1 to 9 m) in length, and most of them benefit from some support. Standards are roses that are trained into a tree-like form with a single stem and a rounded bush or weeping display of flowers on top.
Hardiness Northern gardeners need to know exactly what zone a rose is hardy to. Southern gardeners must also watch to see what zones are recommended for each particular variety, as some roses perform very poorly in hot and/or humid weather. Read the catalogs carefully and, if possible, purchase your roses from a local or regional grower. They will be able to advise you from experience about how a particular variety will perform in your area. Bloom Time Many roses, especially the old-fashioned varieties, have just one flush of blooms per year. Will you be satisfied with a cloud of heavenly pink blossoms for three weeks in June, or do you need your rose to bloom all summer long? This consideration may narrow your choices very quickly.
Disease-resistance Selecting a disease-resistant rose is the single most effective way to avoid problems and the need for chemicals. You might start by considering some of the old rose varieties, many of which have natural disease resistance. You can also look to many of the modern roses, which are now being bred for improved disease resistance. Hybrid teas are notoriously disease-prone, and seem to lure every insect pest from miles around. They can be difficult to grow without an arsenal of chemical dusts and sprays. Stem Length This may seem like an odd consideration, but it’s important if you are growing roses for cutting. The traditional florist rose is a hybrid tea, and it is the only type that flowers on a long, stiff stem. All other roses have shorter, weaker stems, which gives them a more casual—some believe more beautiful—presence in a vase.
Growing Conditions and General Care Roses are rather particular, and you should be aware of the growing conditions and care necessary to keep them happy. Site: For most abundant blooms and greatest vigor, they need to receive 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. In hot climates, they will appreciate receiving protection from the most intense afternoon sun. In cool climates, a fence or a warm south- or west-facing wall can add enough extra warmth to boost flower production and reduce winter damage.
Soils: Roses need good drainage and a rich, moisture-retentive soil, with a pH between 6.5 and 7. If your soil is heavy and wet, you may want to consider planting your roses in raised beds. Compost should be added to create a loose texture with a high organic content. For help correcting a pH imbalance, read Building Healthy Soil. Water: Roses require more water than most other landscape plantings, especially during the first year as the plant is getting its roots established. The best way to water your roses is with drip irrigation. It concentrates the water at the root zone where it is needed, and keeps the foliage dry to minimize disease problems. A good, thick layer of organic mulch will help conserve moisture, reduce weeds, and encourage healthy root growth. As the mulch breaks down, it will also add organic matter to the soil.
Fertilizer: Roses are heavy feeders, and will benefit from a steady supply of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. You can provide these nutrients with either liquid or granular fertilizers, at a ratio of approximately 5-8-5. In most cases, regular applications of compost, rotted manure, fish emulsion and seaweed extracts will provide roses with all the nutrients they need. These organic amendments also help to moderate pH imbalances and stimulate beneficial soil life. Other organic amendments favored by rose growers include greensand, black rock phosphate and alfalfa meal. Pruning: Dead, weak and sickly stems can lead to disease problems. Pruning these away will increase air circulation to the center of the plant and minimize fungus problems. Pruning also stimulates new growth, and allows you to shape the plant in a pleasing manner. Spent flowers should be removed during the growing season to encourage reblooming. Use a scissor-action pruner for the cleanest cuts.
Winter protection: If possible, select rose varieties that are hardy for your growing zone; ones that can survive the winter with no special protection. In cold climates, hybrid teas and floribundas, as well as some of the smaller shrub roses, will benefit from a little extra insulation. Once you have had several weeks of below-freezing temperatures, cover the base of the rose with 12 inches (30 cm) of soil or mulch, and then cover the canes with straw, leaves, pine boughs or even foam insulation. Climbing varieties can be wrapped right on their supports, or you can lay them on the ground and cover the canes with straw or brush. In severely cold climates, hybrid teas are sometimes partially dug up, laid down onto the soil, and the entire plant is then covered with more soil or mulch.
Pests and diseases: Prevention is the best way to avoid pest and disease problems. Start with disease-resistant varieties, keep plants in healthy condition (well fertilized and well watered), maintain good air circulation, keep foliage dry, and remove any diseased foliage or spent flowers. For persistent pest problems, you can use botanical insecticides such as sabadilla, neem, rotenone, and pyrethrins. These are broad-spectrum controls, meaning they kill many types of insects, both good and bad. Though they are organic, these controls are potent and should be used sparingly.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Blooming orchids look so ethereal that it’s hard to believe you can grow them inside your home. For success, choose the right one for your conditions, then watch them flourish.
Selecting Look beyond the pretty face when deciding which orchid to grow indoors. First, assess the growing conditions you can offer an orchid, and make your choice from there. Light, temperature, humidity, your watering tendencies, and fertilizing all play a role in growing orchids.
Light Requirements The single most important variable when growing orchids indoors is light. Orchids that prefer high light — unobstructed sunlight, streaming through a clear, south-facing window or into a greenhouse for 6 to 8 hours — include Vandas and Angraecums. Medium-high light orchids, such as Phragmipediums, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums, grow in locations that are bright but not directly sunny. Eastern and western exposures are often medium-high light locations, although a western exposure may be warmer. The light intensity is the same, but the air temperature has increased.
Medium-low light is appropriate for Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchids) and Paphiopedilums. It may be an east- or west-facing window with no direct sun. It may also be an open northern exposure with no obstructions and some additional reflected light. Low light is usually a limited northern exposure or any exposure where the light is blocked by an overhang, trees, or neighboring buildings. Jewel Orchids grow in low light. Temperature Generally, orchids can be grouped into three temperature categories: cool, warm, and intermediate. Buy a high-low thermometer to measure the temperature range in your orchid location. After that, choosing a suitable orchid is simple. As with light, some orchids easily adapt to more than one temperature range.
Humidity Most orchids we grow indoors come from the tropics, and most parts of the tropics are much more humid than the average living room. Orchids grow better if you can boost the humidity in their immediate growing area by grouping your plants together, or placing them on a dry well. Create a dry well by placing plastic lattice or pebbles on a tray, then adding water to just below the lattice or top of the pebbles. Place your potted plants on top of the lattice or pebbles. Watering Anyone who has ever watered an orchid knows that most of what you pour in runs out almost immediately through the bottom of the pot. Because orchids are potted in bark mix rather than potting soil, they need to be watered differently.
The goal is to get each mix particle to absorb as much water as possible. To give the potting mix enough time to absorb water, place the entire pot in a bowl of water for 10 to 15 minutes, then lift it out and let the excess water drain before putting the pot back in place. This technique works well for orchids potted in clay. Since clay is porous, water penetrates the walls of the pot and is absorbed by the bark. If your orchid is potted in plastic, place it in an empty bowl, then add water. If you place the plastic pot in an already full bowl of water, the water will push the bark up and out, floating it away from the orchid roots. In this case, add water to just below the lip of the pot and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then drain and return the orchid pot to its place.
If an orchid is potted in long-grain sphagnum moss or soilless mix, you can water until water runs out into the saucer below. However, sphagnum moss may feel dry on its surface while the interior may still be moist. Stick your finger an inch or two down into the moss to feel whether it’s truly dry.
How frequently you water your orchid depends on: The kind of orchid: Is it drought-resistant or not? The kind of pot: Porous pots dry out faster than nonporous pots. The kind of potting mix: Sphagnum moss needs water less frequently than bark mix. The air temperature: Plants dry out faster in warmer temperatures. The humidity: Plants dry out faster in drier air. The light: Plants growing in higher light need more water. In general, water drought-tolerant orchids, such as Cattleyas, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums once a week.
Water most others, such as Miltonias, Paphiopedilums, and Phragmipediums every 4 to 5 days. Start there, and adjust up or down according to the conditions in your home. Water orchids thoroughly each time, then let them dry out before watering again. Fertilizing Most orchids are not heavy feeders. Many orchids bloom year after year with no fertilizer at all. During active growth, when new leaves are being produced, you may fertilize every other time you water at half the strength recommended on the fertilizer package. However, it’s important to deliver water without fertilizer at least once a month to flush excess fertilizer salts from the bark mix and avoid fertilizer burn to the roots.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
There are over 400 species of tropical Passion Flowers (the genus Passiflora) with sizes ranging from 0.5 inch to 6 inches (1.3 to 15 cm) across. They are found naturally from South America through Mexico. Early missionaries to these regions used the distinctly colored patterns of the flowers parts to teach about the passion’of Christ; hence the name.
Growing Conditions and General Care Their vibrant colors and heady fragrance make the Passion Flower a welcome addition to any garden. Unfortunately, because of its origins, most species of Passion Flower plant can’t overwinter in many gardens in the United States, although there are a few that will survive up to USDA plant hardiness zone 5. Most varieties will grow in Zones 7-10.
Because they are vines, the best place for growing Passion Flower is along a trellis or fence. The tops will be killed off during winter, but if you mulch deeply, your Passion Flower plant will return with new shoots in the spring. Since growing Passion Flowers can reach 20 feet (6 m) in a single season, this die back will help keep the vine under control. Tropical Passion Flowers need full sun and well drained soil. Two applications of a well-balanced fertilizer per year, once in early spring and one in midsummer is all the Passion Flower care you’ll need.
If you live in an area where winters are too harsh for tender Passion Flower care, don’t despair. Growing Passion Flowers indoors is as easy as finding a big pot and a window with bright light. Plant your vine in a rich commercial indoor potting soil and keep it uniformly moist, not wet.
Move your plant outdoors after all danger of frost is past and let your vine run wild. Come fall, cut back the growth to a reasonable height and bring it back indoors. Knowing how to grow Passion Flower is all it takes to bring a little of the tropics to your patio or porch.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ten-foot giant Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) really can be grown in plant containers (even in small 3-gallon nursery pots). These beautiful native American flowers must be planted in full sun, or they can topple over while trying to reach sun. But growing these beauties in your balcony container garden will attract attention from the people in your neighborhood, as well as a lot of wildlife. The Sunflower’s floret patterns (what eventually turn into seeds) are displayed on the circular flower head in an amazing spiral pattern. This, in addition to making a beautiful flower display, ensures that the most seeds are crammed into the Sunflower’s flower head as possible.
Sunflowers bloom from mid-summer to early fall, and their flower heads are heliotropic, meaning they follow the sun across the sky. But once the Sunflower plant’s stem stiffens and becomes woody (around the time of its bloom), the flower stops following the sun. Although most Sunflowers grow to about 10 feet (3 m), the tallest Sunflower grew to 40 feet (12 m). After planting seeds, expect Sunflowers to be full-grown and blooming within about 3 months. Sunflowers attract wild birds, butterflies and beneficial insects to the balcony garden.
Growing Conditions and General Care Light: Sunflowers need full sun for 6 to 8 hours each day. Water: When it comes to watering the Sunflower plant, add one inch of water per week. Compensate if the potting soil dries out from heat or sun. Fertilizer: Fertilize your Sunflowers regularly with a high-nitrogen liquid plant fertilizer. When a flower head begins to form, switch to a liquid fertilizer with more phosphorous to promote a more spectacular Sunflower bloom.
Temperature: The Sunflower is an annual plant, so you do not need to worry about overwintering this plant indoors. The most important thing to remember with Sunflowers and temperature is to not plant them outdoors until the last frost has passed. If you experience a very hot, dry day, make sure to give extra water to your Sunflower so it does not dry out too much and die. Pests and Diseases While Sunflower plants are generally very healthy and immune to common garden pests and diseases, you will find wild birds and squirrels snacking on Sunflower seeds. When you harvest the giant Sunflower heads, make sure to keep them in an area where animals cannot eat the seeds. You may want to leave the heads on the stalk to attract birds to your garden.
Propagation Collect seeds after allowing the Sunflower to completely dry out (but beware, the flowers won’t look very appealing at this point). Then cut the Sunflower head off and hang it upside down until the seeds dry out. Eat the Sunflower seeds yourself, feed them to wild birds or save them for the next gardening season. Plant Sunflower seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the potting soil, and they should germinate within 5 to 10 days.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sea Poison Tree (Barringtonia asiatica) is a salt-tolerant landscape tree, commonly associated with coastal areas, with a natural range extending from tropical Africa, through India to Southeast Asia, Australia and the Pacific.
It is typically 30 to 50 feet (10 to 15 m) tall and develops a short trunk with a low-branching structure and a densely branched, wide-spreading rounded crown. The leaves are large, oval or nearly so, glossy green, leathery and showy in whorled clusters at the tips of the branches. It blooms on and off throughout the year, with large, showy, white, tulip-like flower buds that open at night to reveal their long, hair-like filaments, which are white with pink tips and collectively resemble a powder-puff when extended.
The flowers are followed by four-sided, woody fruit about the size of a juvenile coconut. Green when young they mature to a dull grey-brown and like a coconut, will float and drift on the ocean until they land on new shores. Growing Conditions and General Care Grows naturally in moderately humid to humid tropical coastal climates, generally in areas with annual lows of 68 to 77 °F (20 to 25 °C), annual highs of 81 to 93 °F (27 to 34 °C), annual rainfall of 1000 to 4000 mm and a dry season of 6 months or less.
Sea Poison Tree grows best in a fertile, humid, well-drained soil. Prefers a position in full sun or light shade. Established plants are fairly drought tolerant and very tolerant of saline conditions and salt laden winds. They thrive in the wild where their roots dabbling in the brackish waters of lagoons, inlets, estuaries and seasonally flooded coastal regions. New plants are usually grown from seed. It performs best on free draining sand and loam soils of a slightly acid to alkaline nature, generally with a pH of 6.0 to 8.5 and on sites with full sun exposure. It has good tolerance to salt, wind, tidal flooding and coral derived limestone soils.
The flowers are short-lived, opening for one night only then lose their petals which fall to the ground creating litter along with the fallen leaves. The fruit are highly poisonous. It is commonly cultivated in seaside gardens and landscapes for its showy foliage, flowers and the welcome shade that it offers against the hot midday sun. Its high tolerance to salt, tidal flooding and strong winds make it especially suited to sites on or near the shoreline, where it also serves as a natural windbreak against strong sea breezes.
Use Because all parts of the tree contain saponin, which is a poison, the seeds and other parts of the plant are pounded and used to stun fish in freshwater streams. Seeds are used to get rid of intestinal worms and the heated leaves are used to treat stomachache and rheumatism. Juice from the seeds are used to seal paper umbrellas and to kill lice and other external parasites.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Flower gardens can turn an ordinary area into a colorful showcase or create a border that pops. Whether you choose an easy to manage perennial or a particularly touchy annual, growing flowers is a rewarding addition to any yard or landscape.
Choosing Flowers Selecting the right plants for your flower garden is often a matter of preference, but with so many species and varieties available it can be mind-boggling. Consider the following when designing a garden: hardiness, color, fragrance, height, time of bloom and size of plant. Do you want to attract hummingbirds, butterflies or song birds? Or are you trying to create a work of beauty just for you? It is also imperative to think about your growing space. Is it in full sun? Partial shade? Is your soil well-drained and loamy? Or will your plant roots have to fight through clay soil?
Once you have determined what you want in a flower and what kind of environment you can provide, planting and caring for flowers in your garden becomes fun. There’s no problem finding plants that love full sun, but if you are looking for flowering plants that can handle partial or total shade consider these plants — Primroses, Hosta, Astilbe and Trollius (perennials) and Impatiens, Viola, Pansies, Begonias, Coleus and Fuchsia (annuals). For plants that have pretty flowers and also double as herbs, consider Catnip, Thyme, Chamomile, Mint, Rosemary, Parsley, Dill, and Fennel for partially shaded areas and Sweet Woodruff, Angelica, Chervil, and Sweet Cicely for areas in full shade.
Perennial Plants Perennials come back year after year, growing in stature and size until they reach maturity. Some perennials lose their vigor after 3-4 years and may need to be replaced. One advantage to perennial flowers — beyond the fact that they do not require replanting every year — is that they can be divided and planted throughout the garden. Perennial flowering plants can be started from seed or purchased as starts in a variety of sizes. Soil preparation is very important when growing perennials, because they will not be relocated. Perennials will likely require pruning and feeding. Also, consider how big the plant will be after a couple years and leave enough room for it to fill out.
Annual Plants An annual completes its life-cycle in one year, and must be replanted. However, if left to go to seed, many annual flowers will reseed themselves — you just don’t get to decide exactly where they’re planted. Some annuals are technically perennials (such as Snapdragons) in areas with a year round growing season, but are treated as annuals in places that frost and freeze. Unless you live in an area with a very long growing season, or you want to start seeds indoors, annuals are best purchased as starts that can be transplanted right into the garden. As long as the soil is reasonably rich in nutrients, most annuals are not too picky about where they are planted.
Preparing the Soil Whether planting perennials or annuals, preparing the soil in advance will help your plants flourish. Annuals will probably be less choosey about where they live since they will only be around for about a year. However, the better the growing conditions, the better the plant will fare. If you are starting with a bare or weedy spot of land, you’ll need to start at the beginning. Determine the area for your flower bed and start digging. Remove all surface weeds along with rocks and roots.
Next, dig some more — double dig that is. To double dig a garden bed, dig a trench the width of the garden to 2 shovel depths. Set the soil off to the side. Then, dig another trench next to the first one, dumping the soil into the first trench. Continue this process until the new garden space is completed. (Use the soil from the first trench to fill in the last trench.) For an added kick mix organic compost into the trenches as you refill them.
Planting When starting plants from seed, be sure that your soil has been adequately prepared. Dig a small hole in the ground according to the directions on the seed packet (usually about twice the depth of the seed) and drop in a couple of seeds. Cover with soil and water gently, but thoroughly. Be sure to keep the soil moist as the seed sprouts. Many flowers are started in a greenhouse before moving to the garden. Whether you grow your own seedlings or purchase them from a garden store, be sure to harden them off first. Next, dig a hole as deep as your seedling (including it’s root mass) and twice as wide. If your garden soil is mediocre, this is a great time to throw some compost or organic fertilizer into the hole. Loosen the root ball and place the seedling gently into the hole. Add enough soil or planting medium to fill in. Tamp the soil down gently and water thoroughly.
Garden Maintenance Perennials The first year, add about 2 inches (5 cm) of mulch right up to the plant crown to help retain moisture, keep weeds at bay and moderate soil temperatures. Each year add additional mulch without exceeding a depth of 2 inches (5 cm). Water on average an inch (2.5 cm) per week the first year. Check the requirements for specific plants, as watering needs will vary depending on species and location. Deep, but less frequent watering encourages the plant to develop deeper roots, which will aid it in surviving drought conditions (or lackadaisical watering). An easy way to water perennials is to bury a soaker hose beneath the mulch. In the following years, perennials will require less water.
Perennials planted in good soil will not require much fertilization. Adding a good organic bloom fertilizer and some compost at the beginning of each growing season should be sufficient. Perennials grown in poor soil will benefit from occasional foliar applications of fertilizer — as always, read the instructions on the label for recommended application rates. Dividing plants is a great way to get new (free!) flowers for the garden, share plants with friends, or create more space. Dividing perennials is good for the health of the plant as well. The best time to divide flowers is early fall or early spring when the plant is dormant. Before dividing a plant, prepare the garden soil by adding compost or an organic fertilizer.
Lift the plant you plan to divide, being careful not to damage the roots. Shake off loose soil gently and remove any dead material. Using your hands, a fork, a knife or a garden spade, separate the plants. Throw the center of the clump into the compost pile if it is weak, woody or dead. Then divide the vigorous parts of the plant into 3-5 shoots each. Dig a hole in the prepared soil and place the divided plant in the hole. Fill with soil and firmly tamp it down. Water thoroughly and continue watering deeply throughout the first growing season. If dividing in the fall, add mulch after several frosts have past and the temperature of the soil drops.
Annuals Annual flowers require a bit more after plant care than established perennials. Water annuals about 0.5 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) per week, depending on rainfall. A rain gauge can help determine how much water your flowers are getting. To prevent fungal diseases, water in the early morning hours to give plants time to dry out during the day. Use an organic plant food according to the directions on the label — too much fertilizer can burn flowers, while too little may lead to yellowing leaves and weak plants. Annuals will likely only need one or two fertilizer applications during the growing season, unless they are planted in containers where they will benefit from additional fertilization.
Apply 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) of organic mulch around the plants after they are planted. This will help conserve water, inhibit weeds and keep the soil cool. Mulch also looks nice! Shredded leaves, bark chips, compost, dry grass clippings, hulls, or pine needles can all be used as mulch. In the fall, mix the mulch into the soil to improve it.
Deadhead (pick, snip, prune, pinch, cut, etc. dying flowers) as needed. If the plant produces seeds it will “think” it’s job is done and stop producing flowers. Deadheading tricks the plant into growing more blooms. The only drawback of deadheading is that you are also removing the seeds. Some people prefer to leave spent flowers on the plant at the end of the growing season to encourage natural reseeding, others may collect and store seeds for the following year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Orchids are exotic plants that create beautiful blooms. With the right care, most orchids bloom at least once per year. Every orchid species has slightly different needs in order to thrive and bloom, but the variables are all the same – light, temperature, water, potting material, and humidity. By adjusting the environment for your particular species of orchid and providing a few seasonal triggers, you can get your plants to bloom.
1. Providing the Right Growth Environment Make sure the light intensity is correct for the species There are many species of orchids, but Moth Orchids (Phalaenopsis) are the most common and easiest species to grow. This is the kind that is sold in most florist shops and nurseries. Placing them on a sunny windowsill will usually make them happy. They like bright light, but not direct sun.
Provide the right amount of water The Phalaenopsis orchid likes to be watered once per week during its resting period (when it experiences no growth or blooms) and twice per week during active growth. It prefers to be kept dry between waterings. This means you should only water it when the potting material (which is usually a free-draining blend of fir bark) appears dry, or else the orchid could die. If the bark looks damp, it’s too soon. Water your orchid early in the morning. Most indoor orchids should be watered every 5 to 12 days, depending on the species and season.
Maintain a humid environment Most orchids are tropical plants, so they prefer a humidity level that they probably aren’t getting in the average living room. During the winter, a 30 percent humidity level is average for a home. The Phalaenopsis orchid likes 40 to 70 percent humidity. Most other orchids prefer 60 to 80 percent humidity. By adjusting the humidity for them, all orchid species will grow a little better. If you group your plants together in one growing area, this will create humidity. 2. Triggering Blooms Consider using full-spectrum lights When an orchid refuses to bloom, the reason is usually because it isn’t getting enough light. If you are unable to provide the right amount of natural light for your orchid, look into setting up full-spectrum lights indoors. You can purchase these lighting systems at nurseries or order them online.
Use a fertilizer formulated for orchids Feeding an orchid the right fertilizers can stimulate it to grow faster and bloom sooner. Look for orchid food that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). It should also include trace elements like iron. Always read and follow the instructions of your orchid food carefully. Orchids should be watered thoroughly before fertilizing them. Fertilize your orchid once per month during the active growing season The active growing season for orchids is approximately March through November. Don’t fertilize from mid-December until mid-February. If you fertilize it less than that, its growth may become stunted and blooms won’t appear. If you fertilize it more frequently than that, you risk burning the roots and leaves of the plant.
Drop the temperature by 10 degrees at night Moth orchids (Phalaenopsis) are temperature sensitive. In nature, their blooms are triggered when fall arrives and the temperatures drop at night. If an orchid doesn’t experience a period of cooler nights, even an indoor orchid, it may refuse to make buds or bloom. If your orchid is sitting in a window, it’s probably experiencing natural temperature drops coming from outside to some extent. However, this may not be enough to trigger blooms. Before you go to bed each night, turn your thermostat down by 10 degrees.
One to two weeks of nightly temperature drops will usually trigger an orchid to bloom, as long as it’s the right time of their growth cycle. For Phalaenopsis orchids, provide night temperatures of 60°F (15.5°C) and day temperatures of 80°F (25°C). Diagnosing Your Orchid Pay attention to the season Each species of orchid has a growth season – a time of the year when it will naturally bloom. If it currently isn’t the orchid’s growth season, it isn’t going to bloom. Most orchids, including the Phalaenopsis orchid, will experience the growth of new leaves during the summer months. Spikes and flower buds will appear in late fall and soon after it will bloom. It will continue to bloom until spring. The blooming season usually ends around mid-February.
Check the leaf color If an orchid isn’t blooming, the reason is almost always because it’s not getting enough light. One of the best ways to figure out if your orchid is getting enough light is to check its leaf color. A healthy orchid getting the right amount of sun exposure will have bright green leaves. If the leaves are dark green, your orchid isn’t getting enough light. Move it to a brighter spot, like a south-facing window. If the leaves are reddish-green, the orchid is getting too much light. Move it to a less sunny spot, like an east or north-facing window.
Check the stems and leaves for signs of dehydration If the stems and leaves appear wilted or shriveled, your orchid needs more water. You will always need to water more frequently when the orchid is actively blooming. During the resting period (when there are no blooms), water your orchid about once per week. During the active blooming phase, water it twice per week. Increase watering when you see new shoots and roots appear on your orchid. Too much water can kill an orchid quickly. Never allow your orchid to sit in a soggy, water-logged pot.
Evaluate the potting material Most orchids, including Phalaenopsis, do not grow in regular soil. They need a growing medium that provides fast water drainage and good air circulation. A free-draining blend of fir bark (sometimes referred as fir bark nuggets) is the most popular potting material for moth orchids. If you can’t identify your plant’s current growing medium, re-pot it in fir bark.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Whether displaying bright orange or sunny yellow flowers, Calendula (also called Pot Marigold) is one of the most essential parts of your garden medicine chest. The aromatic heads of these spring flowers can be collected and made into oils and salves to help heal skin injuries of all kinds. Make sure you grow only Calendula officinalis and not just any of the many marigolds or ornamental varieties that are available. Read on to learn the specifics for growing and caring for these delicate and beneficial flowers.
Growing Calendula can grow to almost 2 feet (60 cm) tall, and the flowers tend to open with sunny, dry weather and close in cold or moist conditions. They enjoy full sun (or even partial shade in hot summer regions) and average soil, and have moderate water needs. If flower production dwindles, you can cut back the plants to increase new flower production. Calendula will self-sow yearly in many gardens and don’t mind crowding. Direct-sow the seeds in early spring or late fall, as they can withstand some frost.
Harvesting Collect the flower heads on hot, sunny days for the highest resin content, and pick them regularly to prevent the plants from putting their energy into seed production. Once that happens, the rest of the flowers will be smaller. Choose flowers that are just opening in the morning before noon, and dry Calendula quickly after you harvest it. Check the center of the flower for dryness because molding in storage is a problem. Watch for reabsorption of moisture and keep it in complete darkness.
Healing Properties Use the entire flower head, not just the petals, in preparations for healing cuts, scrapes, burns, diaper rash, sores, ulcers, varicose veins, chapped skin and lips, and insect bites. Salves, oils, creams, and other preparations can be found in drugstores and natural food stores alike. Science shows that extracts of the flower heads have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. And herbalists have long recommended tea infusions of Calendula to help heal ulcers in the digestive tract, soothe gallbladder inflammation, and treat enlarged, sore lymph glands.
Preparations Use the freshly dried flower heads to make creams, salves, liniments, teas, tinctures, and oils, or add the flower heads directly to your bath to soothe irritated skin. For internal conditions, take 1 to 3 dropperfuls of tincture in a little water several times daily (though be sure to check with your healthcare professional first).
Safety As with other members of the Daisy family, some people are sensitive to Calendula because of the sesquiterpene compounds that the plants contain. If you tend to have allergic skin reactions or are sensitive to certain foods, start with a low dose of this herb and work up to a full dose if you don’t experience any reaction.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
One of the first blooms to appear is the Crocus, sometimes peeking up through a layer of snow with the promise of spring. The Crocus plant grows from bulbs and is native to central and eastern Europe, North Africa, the Middle East and parts of Asia and China. They are adaptable flowers that have become part of the North American landscape, providing much needed late winter or early spring cheer. Growing Crocus in the home garden is easy if you know when to plant it.
Growing Conditions and General Care You should purchase your Crocus bulbs in September or October but wait to plant them until soil temperatures are below 60°F (16°C). As a general rule, bulbs are planted in November. Crocus is hardy to USDA zones 3 to 8 but planting times will vary slightly depending when you receive your first freeze. The bulbs should be in the ground before the first frost. Crocus need a chilling period of 12 to 16 weeks before blooming, so plan accordingly when growing it in your garden.
Crocus bulbs need well drained soil in a sunny to partially sunny location. They thrive in a soil pH of 6 to 7 and are tolerant of a wide range of soils. You may even grow Crocus in the lawn but be careful as they will naturalize and spread to become a potential nuisance. Plant the bulbs in groups in the garden bed for impact or even under trees, as they need little root space. Bulbs are planted 3 inches (7.5 cm) deep and 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) apart. Provide mulch over the planting area in very cold zones but rake it away in early spring so the flowers can emerge. Gardeners in zones where the winters are too harsh or too warm to plant in fall can force the Crocus bulbs indoors in time for a spring planting.
Animals can be a big problem with Crocus bulbs. Squirrels and other rodents will dig up the bulbs and eat them, and deer will graze on the early foliage. You can cover the spring bulb bed with wire mesh to prevent squirrel damage, and there are deer repellents you can try to prevent their feeding on your flowers. When the flowers are spent, leave the foliage until it dies back to collect solar energy to feed the bulbs for the next bloom. Every two to three years, clumps should be divided in fall when they are dormant. Dig up the clump and cut it into pieces with several bulbs attached and at least four healthy stems.
Fertilize Crocus beds with a slow release fertilizer in fall according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Are you really good at killing your houseplants? It’s a talent that, unfortunately, many possess. Plants can be temperamental—it’s true. But there are a few things you might be doing to contribute to their demise. Have you tried everything you can to keep them alive? You may think you have…but here is a list of 12 ways you could be killing your houseplants.
1. Not reading care instructions Just like people, no two plants are the same. The number-one most critical rule we can stress when you receive your plant is: read the care instructions included. Even plants that you buy at a nursery should come with instructions that, when followed precisely, can prevent you from becoming a plant killer.
2. Over watering People often think that more water is better. But all plants have different needs when it comes to watering—which can vary based on the time of year, amount of light and temperature. The easiest solution is to understand the moisture level of your plant. Some plants like to dry out completely between waterings, others need to be kept moist—so the safest bet is to check the care instructions. Stick your finger into the dirt about an inch (2.5 cm) deep to feel whether it’s dry or moist. When excess water collects at the bottom of the plant’s container, it causes root rot, which can kill your indoor plant. The best way to avoid this is to remove the plastic grower pot from inside the decorative pot, water it in the sink and then let it drain completely before replacing it back in its decorative outer pot.
3. Underwatering What’s just as harmful to your plant as overwatering? You guessed it: underwatering. When in doubt, check the care instructions to learn how often to water your particular plant species. Again, stick your finger in the soil to see if it feels dry. Some plants, like the Peace Lily, are very expressive—the leaves will droop when it is in need of a good watering, and will perk right back up again once its thirst is quenched. Water the soil thoroughly each time, making sure it drains from the holes at the bottom of your pot. 4. Too much/too little light All plants need light at varying degrees. Plants will tell you if they’re not getting the right amount of light. The leaves could change color or turn brown if they are getting too much light and essentially become sunburned. On the flip side, if you notice your plant “craning its neck” toward the light, or producing very small, pale leaves, it wants more. Most plants do well with bright, filtered light—but always follow the care instructions.
5. Extreme temperatures Most plants like the same temperature we like. The safest temperature is a mild 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit (18 to 21 degrees Celsius)—not too hot, not too cold. If you place your houseplant near a window, be cognizant of the weather outside—with seasonal changes it could go from very hot in the summer to freezing cold in the winter, effecting your plant’s life. Additionally, if you start cranking on the heater or air conditioner, it could dry out your plant. Use a mister or make a humidity tray to increase the humidity in a dry environment. Keep in mind, “If you’re comfortable, they are probably ok. But don’t forget to check the care card for temperature specifics! 6. Not “pinching” Certain flowering plants require you to “pinch off” old blooms to encourage new growth. You’ll know when to pinch because the blooms will have turned brown, indicating that they are dying. Pinch the bloom, by holding the stem with one hand and using your other hand or gardening sheers to pluck off the entire bloom.
7. Not repotting Houseplants can become bound by the containers they are in. Most plants outgrow their pot within one to two years, so it’s important to swap it out for a larger one with fresh soil, or replant it in the ground outside, giving it more space to grow. You’ll know when to repot because the leaves may turn yellow, indicating it isn’t getting enough nutrients from the soil anymore or water may pour quickly out the bottom holes as you water it. In some cases, you may see roots growing out of the drain holes in the plastic grower pot. To inspect the roots, water the plant thoroughly, and then carefully tap the side of the grower pot onto a hard surface. Gently remove the plant from the plastic grower pot and if the roots have grown into a mass or matt around the soil, or the plant will not easily lift from the plastic pot, your plant is root bound and needs to be repotted. Also keep in mind that you should never repot when the plant is blooming. It is also important to make sure you select the right size pot for your plant from the beginning.
8. Ignoring insects Some of the most common damaging insects for plants include gnats, spider mites and white flies. Prevent pests from attacking your garden with such techniques as waiting 30 days to introduce new plants to the area you keep other plants, removing weak plants, using seaweed mulch or spray and keeping leaves clean by wiping them down with soap and water. If bugs are damaging your plants, first identify which kind it is, then use a natural remedy to eliminate them. Keep in mind that some insects are actually beneficial to your plants, like ladybugs or praying mantises. 9. Neglect Going on vacation? Nice for you, but not for your houseplants. Make sure that you arrange for someone to come and water your plants while you are away. Another option is to use a Plant Nanny device—a terracotta-watering stake that you attach a bottle of water to on one end, and then insert the other end into the soil. When the soil dries, it automatically draws water from the bottle.
10. Not fertilizing Houseplants are dependent on their soil for nutrients, and may need supplements for optimal health, growth and bloom production. Using a balanced houseplant food (which can be purchased at any nursery or big box store) on a regular basis, as instructed by the manufacturer, will ensure your plant is getting the nutrients it needs. Check to see if your plant variety is listed on the back label when picking out a fertilizer. Some plants, such as orchids, require fertilizers specifically formulated for their needs. Be sure to follow the instructions on the label for your plant, as over-fertilizing can kill your plants.
11. Wrong soil Each plant species has different needs when it comes to the type of soil it requires based on its natural environment. You can mix your own soil at home, or choose a high-quality, organic soil with medium weight to give it the longest lifespan. Make sure that the soil you mix or buy is designed for your plant’s needs. Some plants do best in thick, dense soil, while other plants, such as cacti, need fast-draining soil with high sand and peat content, to prevent root rot. 12. Moving too much Plants become accustomed to their place in your home, and don’t like to be moved around too much. If a plant is thriving under certain temperatures and light conditions, moving it could make it difficult to adjust to its new environment. Typically you’ll want to find a good place for your houseplant and keep it there.
Plants are beautiful additions to your home, bringing a lively, fresh outdoor feel inside. Don’t be afraid to own an indoor houseplant because you are a notorious plant killer—start off with easy plants to care for, like succulents, money trees or evergreen lilies. Once you get into your groove with your houseplants, it becomes fun to maintain them—and well worth the little extra work.
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