文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
This low-growing sea daisy forms dense patches of colour along cliff tops and beside coastal paths.
Identification
The lush-looking dark green leaves are grey-green and leathery, and they seem at odds with the arid conditions in which the plant flourishes. Its yellow flowers are typically 2 to 4cm across and have long petals with double nitched (three-lobed) tips.
Distribution
This is a mediterranean species whose range extends from the Canaries, Greece to coastal regions of southern Spain and Portugal and southwards into some parts of northern Africa.
Blooming times
Yellow Sea Daisy flowers from March until May in the Algarve.
Identification
The lush-looking dark green leaves are grey-green and leathery, and they seem at odds with the arid conditions in which the plant flourishes. Its yellow flowers are typically 2 to 4cm across and have long petals with double nitched (three-lobed) tips.
Distribution
This is a mediterranean species whose range extends from the Canaries, Greece to coastal regions of southern Spain and Portugal and southwards into some parts of northern Africa.
Blooming times
Yellow Sea Daisy flowers from March until May in the Algarve.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
This gorgeous wildflower certainly lives up to its common name - Showy Milkweed. 'Showy' it most certainly is, and it is hard to miss if you catch sight of it growing along roadsides which is one of its favourite habitats.
The plant grows to well over a metre in height and has large, handsome dark green leaves which have conspicuous veins. The lovely pink flowers open in a perfect globe, and close inspection reveals their unique structure.
Unlike other members of the Milkweed family, Asclepias speciosa is not poisonous and has been used both as food and for its medicinal qualities. During the Second World War the soft downy seeds of Showy Milkweed were collected for use in military bouyancy aids and also as insulating material for flying-jackets.
Showy Milkweed grows in both dry and moist habitats and you are equally likely to find it in roadside ditches as well as along riverbanks. It flowers from May through to August.
The plant grows to well over a metre in height and has large, handsome dark green leaves which have conspicuous veins. The lovely pink flowers open in a perfect globe, and close inspection reveals their unique structure.
Unlike other members of the Milkweed family, Asclepias speciosa is not poisonous and has been used both as food and for its medicinal qualities. During the Second World War the soft downy seeds of Showy Milkweed were collected for use in military bouyancy aids and also as insulating material for flying-jackets.
Showy Milkweed grows in both dry and moist habitats and you are equally likely to find it in roadside ditches as well as along riverbanks. It flowers from May through to August.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Dragon fruit originated in Central America. Also called pitaya fruit, this plant has been cultivated since the 13th century. Dragon fruit, like other cactus, needs warm growing conditions. When pitaya matures, it makes an excellent eating fruit or component for wine and flavorings. When consumed in fresh or dried form dragon fruit provides carotene, digestive fiber, protein, phosphorus, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3 and Vitamin C.
Step 1
Choose your plant. Dragon fruit can grow from seeds, but many people prefer a seedling so the cactus grows more quickly. Obtain the seedling from a reliable nursery. Those that sell cactus are the most likely to offer dragon fruit.
Step 2
Place some rocks in the bottom of a pot that's at least 2 feet deep and wide, followed by a 2-inch covering of sand for good drainage. Position a trellis in the middle and pour in good potting soil to hold it in place. Push the seedling down into the dirt so just the very top peeks through the soil.
Step 3
Add water to the soil. It should feel damp but not soggy. Dragon fruit is susceptible to root rot. Also, as a succulent it naturally holds a lot of water so you don't need to keep it overly wet.
Step 4
Cover the pot using a piece of clear food storage plastic with tiny holes poked through. A toothpick works nicely. Move the pot to a partly sunny window or in front of a grow light. Dragon fruit requires about 4 hours of direct sun daily, followed by partial light for another 4.
Step 5
Adjust the temperature of the room in which your dragon fruit grows. They like it around 100 degrees F. A heat lamp can provide the temperature desired.
Step 6
Move the seedling deeper in the soil. After about two weeks, the seedling should be about 3 inches tall. It's now ready to move further down into the soil so it doesn't become root-bound. Move it carefully, gently shaking the roots to move it out and then replacing it in the pot, leaving about 1 inch out of the soil. When the plant grows about 6 inches, tie it to the trellis for security. Your plant should begin flowering in about six to eight months.
Step 7
Get fruit by pairing Hylocereus undatus and Hylocerus polyrhizus seedlings and cross-pollinate them. Wait for the flowers of both to open, usually at night, then gather pollen from anthers of both plants with a cotton swab, transferring it to the stigma of the other plant. You've just done the work of bees and other pollinators.
Step 8
Once fruit develops, watch for signs of ripeness before picking the fruit. The skin will appear yellow or red instead of green, the fruit will easily release from the tree, a rich fruity aroma will emit from the dragon fruit, and the fruit will feel tender when squeezed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Golden Sedum (Sedum adolphi) is a low-growing succulent plant with pointed dark green leaves. The leaves develop orange or reddish tips when exposed to bright sunlight. Sedum adophi produces white, star-shaped flowers in spring. It can survive a few hours in temperatures as low is 29 degrees Fahrenheit, but is not considered winter hardy except in frost-free locations, such as United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10 and warmer. Sedum adolphi is most often grown as a houseplant or an attractive outdoor container plant where it can be protected during the winter.
Step 1
Purchase a well-draining container for planting Sedum adolphi. The container should not be any bigger than 2 inches more in diameter than the root section of the plant. A larger container will contain more potting soil than is needed for the plant to grow. Unused potting soil collects moisture and the organic material in the potting soil will create fungal problems that can spread to the plant.
Step 2
Fill the bottom of the container with 1 inch of fine gravel. The gravel helps the container drain so it does not hold water. A Sedum adophi plant cannot sit in waterlogged soil or the plant will rot.
Step 3
Add potting soil until the container is half full. Carefully take the sedum from the previous container and plant in the new container. Add more potting soil around the Sedum adolphi until it is planted at the same depth it was planted in the previous container and the soil surface is 1 inch below the top of the container. Add water over the soil to settle the potting soil. Add more potting soil as needed. Spread a 1/2-inch layer of gravel over the potting soil. Leave a 1/2-inch space between the gravel and the top of the container so soil and gravel will not wash from the container during watering.
Step 4
Water the Sedum adolphi when the soil in the container is dry. Test the soil for dryness by pushing your finger through the gravel mulch into the top inch of soil. Water heavily until water runs from the bottom of the container.
Step 5
Fertilize once a month with a one-fourth strength solution of water soluble fertilizer appropriate for container plants. Only fertilize during the spring and summer months when the plant is actively growing.
Step 6
Place the container in which the Sedum adolphi is planted in a brightly lit location in the house. Outdoors, place the Sedum adolphi where it is protected from the hottest afternoon sun. Direct sun in the first part of the day followed by shade or dappled sun is best.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus (Schumbergera bridgesi) is a departure from the stereotypical prickly, sun-loving, dry weather, desert plant, as Christmas cactus is tropical and has different growing requirements. Although Christmas cactus appreciates bright sunlight, it blooms best with moist soil and cooler temperatures. Christmas cactus isn't a demanding plant, and with proper care, it will reward you with colorful blooms in time for the winter holidays. Propagate Christmas cactus by rooting sections of stem in May or June.
Step 1
Select a joint between stem segments, and pinch it with your fingernails or cut it with a clean, sharp knife. The cut stem must have at least three to five stem segments.
Step 2
Place the stem on a paper plate or paper towel, then set it aside to dry for about a day, but possibly as long as two weeks. The amount of drying time needed will depend on the size of the cut surface. Once the cut end has formed a callus, which will prevent the stem from rotting, the stem will be ready for planting. Because the Christmas cactus stores water, drying won't hurt the stem, but don't wait so long that it becomes shriveled.
Step 3
Fill a planting container with moistened perlite. Use a container with a drainage hole, as Christmas cactus rots in poorly drained, soggy soil.
Step 4
Plant the stem about an inch deep in the perlite. Water lightly to settle the perlite around the stem, then cover the container with a clear plastic bag. Seal the bag with a rubber band or twist tie.
Step 5
Place the container where the Christmas cactus cutting is exposed to bright, indirect light. Check the container two or three times every week, and add a small amount of water if the perlite feels dry. If condensation forms inside the bag, open the bag for an hour or two to provide ventilation. The stem should root in approximately six to eight weeks.
Step 6
Lift the Christmas cactus cutting from the soil using an old spoon. If the roots are at least an inch long, re-pot the stem in a fresh pot filled with a commercial potting soil for cactus or succulents. If the roots are less than an inch, replace the stem in the original container, and allow the roots to grow for a few more days before re-potting.
Step 7
Place your new Christmas cactus in bright, indirect light away from drafty doors or windows, air conditioners, heat vents or fireplaces. Water your Christmas cactus whenever the top inch of the soil feels dry, adding water until it drips through the drainage hole. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly before replacing the plant on the drainage saucer.
Step 8
Fertilize your Christmas cactus once every month during the summer, using a soluble fertilizer.
Step 1
Select a joint between stem segments, and pinch it with your fingernails or cut it with a clean, sharp knife. The cut stem must have at least three to five stem segments.
Step 2
Place the stem on a paper plate or paper towel, then set it aside to dry for about a day, but possibly as long as two weeks. The amount of drying time needed will depend on the size of the cut surface. Once the cut end has formed a callus, which will prevent the stem from rotting, the stem will be ready for planting. Because the Christmas cactus stores water, drying won't hurt the stem, but don't wait so long that it becomes shriveled.
Step 3
Fill a planting container with moistened perlite. Use a container with a drainage hole, as Christmas cactus rots in poorly drained, soggy soil.
Step 4
Plant the stem about an inch deep in the perlite. Water lightly to settle the perlite around the stem, then cover the container with a clear plastic bag. Seal the bag with a rubber band or twist tie.
Step 5
Place the container where the Christmas cactus cutting is exposed to bright, indirect light. Check the container two or three times every week, and add a small amount of water if the perlite feels dry. If condensation forms inside the bag, open the bag for an hour or two to provide ventilation. The stem should root in approximately six to eight weeks.
Step 6
Lift the Christmas cactus cutting from the soil using an old spoon. If the roots are at least an inch long, re-pot the stem in a fresh pot filled with a commercial potting soil for cactus or succulents. If the roots are less than an inch, replace the stem in the original container, and allow the roots to grow for a few more days before re-potting.
Step 7
Place your new Christmas cactus in bright, indirect light away from drafty doors or windows, air conditioners, heat vents or fireplaces. Water your Christmas cactus whenever the top inch of the soil feels dry, adding water until it drips through the drainage hole. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly before replacing the plant on the drainage saucer.
Step 8
Fertilize your Christmas cactus once every month during the summer, using a soluble fertilizer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cacti can take on a yellowish color when exposed to too much light. While numerous species of cacti thrive in light, intense light can cause major health problems. It is important when growing cacti to be able to diagnose the signs of too much light exposure to provide the best growing environment for your cacti.
Too Much Light
The amount of light your cactus needs depends on the species. However, you can judge how much light your cactus needs by monitoring it for discoloration. Cacti that turn yellow, orange or take on a bleached-out appearance have been exposed to too much light. A healthy cactus will maintain its color. If a cactus is moved from moderate light to intense light, it may get scorched by the sun. A scorched cactus produces a discolored ring around the top, which will not go away.
Location
Cacti need full sunlight to grow. Full sunlight is characterized as a location that receives six to eight hours of sun a day. Typically, areas in the southern part of the yard will receive enough light to support a cactus. If you are bringing your cactus outside from overwintering indoors, place the cactus in a low light area for a few days. Gradually, increase the light every few days for your cactus. Cacti that discolor should be moved to a lower light area.
Indoor Cacti
Sticking a cactus in your window can cause yellow discoloration. Windows, especially if they are south facing, may cast too much direct light on the cactus. Place a sheer curtain over the window. Monitor the cactus for any discoloration. You can also move the cactus further away from the window if it looks stressed. Gardeners may find that placing a cactus inside the home involves trial and error, as cacti species differ in the amount of sun they need.
To Little Light
When choosing the best area for your cactus, it is important to recognize signs that your cactus isn't receiving enough light. Cacti that grow towards light sources need to be moved closer to the light. If the stem of your cactus is actually reaching out for the window, gradually bring the cactus closer. To restore the shape of the cactus, rotate the plant every week so that it receives light from all sides of the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Yucca plants grow in either a tree form or a shrub form. Tree yuccas are tall growing trees that have thick fibrous leaves on the tips of their branches. Common tree yuccas are Spanish bayonet (Yucca aloifolia) and the Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia). Shrub yuccas, like the hairy yucca (Yucca filamentosa), are low-growing spiky plants that form rosettes of thick fibrous leaves that sprout from a central point. After both yucca plants bloom, a brown flower stalk is left behind. The flowering stalk should be removed from the plant if you do not wish for the plant to produce seed. Often, shrub yucca plants turn brown and then die after they flower, but new plants emerge around the dead rosette.
Step 1
Put on leather gardening gloves and prune off the dead and dying leaves in the spring with sharp pruning shears. Avoid pulling the leaves off the plant as this causes damage.
Step 2
Remove the flower stalk after it has dried, which is usually in late summer. Cut the flower stalk 3 to 4 inches above the center of the rosette with sharp pruning shears. Remove the severed flowering stalk and discard. Pull the stalk out from the center of the plant only if the center is rotted and the stalk can be easily removed.
Step 3
Pull the dead yucca plant out of the ground gently when you notice new plants forming around it. Use caution not to disturb the newly emerged plants.
Flowering Stalk Removal of Tree Yuccas
Step 4
Prune off only dead or dying leaves with pruning shears. Removing green leaves damages the tree. Wear leather gloves to protect your hands.
Step 5
Cut the flower stalk panicles off the tree after a few weeks of blooming if you live in a wet area. Cut the panicles 3 to 4 inches from the center of the leaves with sharp pruning shears. Dead flower stalks will fall off the tree leaving behind a hole where water can get into the heart of the plant and rot it out from the inside.
Step 6
Cut the flowing stalks anytime if you live in a dry climate. Cut the stalk panicles 3 to 4 inches from the center of the leaves with sharp pruning shears. It is not harmful to leave the flowering stalks on the tree if you live in an arid area that does not receive much rain.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The best way to keep your cactus from turning brown is to ensure that its environment is one that's conducive to growing a healthy plant. Quarantine new plants and inspect them for pests and disease before exposing them to your other plants. Provide loose, clean, well-drained soil. Underwater, don't overwater, your plants.
Root Rot
If the base of your cactus is turning brown and the stems are soft and yellow, it could be a sign of root rot. Plants with root rot can be hard to save because the rot starts inside the cactus and works its way out, so symptoms aren't usually noticed until the rot is advanced. Stop watering plants with early rot, and try repotting them in well-draining soil. You can try saving a plant with advanced root rot by cutting away all signs of rot along with some of the healthy tissue surrounding it to ensure that it doesn't spread. Use a clean knife and wipe it with alcohol in between cuts. Apply sulfur powder to the wounds. Overwatering or damaged roots can cause root rot.
Scales
Scales are small insects that appear like brown spots on cacti because of their hard brown shell coverings. The scales feed on plant juices, weakening cacti and making them look yellow. Spray your cactus with a stream of water to remove scales, or wash your plant with a weak solution of detergent. Use malathion insecticide for large infestations. You can also kill scales by using a cotton swab to dab horticultural oil on each scale. This cuts off the scale's air supply so it suffocates.
Mites
Red spider mites are small reddish insects. They're so small that it's easier to look for their webs rather than the bugs themselves. Symptoms include white spots that turn rusty brown and usually appear at the top of the plant. If left untreated, mites kill your cactus by eating the entire outer layer of tissue off your plant. Water cacti from overhead with a strong stream of water to remove mites. Miticides can be used for large infestations.
Corking
The appearance of firm, brown, barklike tissue just above the soil of an otherwise healthy plant is a sign of corking and is part of the natural aging process of cacti. Corking always starts from the base of the cactus and moves upward. If a cactus turns brown from the top down, it's a sign of sunburn or some other problem.
Sunburn
Mild sunburn problems appear as a whitish discoloring, usually at the top and side facing the sun. Severe burns show up as hard brown scars on the burned surface. Cacti with brown scars have permanent damage. If your plant only has whitish discoloring, you can heal it by moving it into the shade. Cacti that aren't used to being in the sun have to be acclimated to it by providing full sun for a short time each day and then increasing exposure over a period of several weeks. Some species should never have full sun all day.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cacti are slow-growing succulent plants with well-developed vascular systems, or systems that transport food and water through the system. Thanks to this system, if a piece breaks off the cactus, there are several options to salvage it, whether it is grafting or planting the piece as a new specimen.
Grafting
Broken pieces often have jagged edges and damaged tissues, so if you were to simply put the broken piece back onto the cactus and bind it in place, chances for success are low. If the wounded end on the broken piece and the stub were cut evenly with a sharp knife and you bind the broken piece into place on the stub, the chances of the cactus healing are much greater. This is because of the ease of grafting cactus plants and the very high probability of cacti of the same species grafting successfully. Alternately, you may graft the broken piece onto another cactus, preferably of the same species.
Planting Pieces
You can also plant broken pieces to create new cacti. It is best, however, to let the broken piece scab over for a few days in a warm, dry area with good circulation to prevent problems with fungal disease entering along the broken edge. Alternately, you may dip the broken edge in an anti-fungal sulfur solution. If the piece broke off because of disease or infection of the main plant, remove the diseased parts with a sharp, disinfected knife first, or the disease will claim the broken piece as well.
Aesthetics
Grafting leaves scars. This isn't a big problem if you have a sectioned cactus and it was a whole section that broke off. For many cacti, however, a broken section grafted back into place looks wounded, even if the graft heals. It may be better to trim the stub back to a section further down or closer to the main section of the cactus, depending on the type of cactus, and then re-attach the broken piece. If you will plant the broken piece for a new cactus or simply dispose of it altogether, it helps to trim the cactus, if possible, to remove jagged edges or odd-looking stumps.
Considerations
If the break is next to or on the base of the cactus, it is usually easier to simply allow the broken cactus piece to scab over and then re-plant it rather than try to get a graft to take. The wound is susceptible to fungal infection, especially if the soil is moist or comes into contact with the grafting joint.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Growing a cactus indoors or out can create visual interest and a feel reminiscent of a dry, rugged landscape. While many cacti grow well when planted in the ground in a preferred climate, container grown cacti can sometimes begin to wilt as a sign they are either receiving too much water or not enough. Luckily, you can fix a wilting cactus by improving your soil and making changes to your watering schedule.
Step 1
Feel the soil around the base of your cactus for wetness. If the soil is powdery and dry, then water quantity or frequency is the issue. Proceed to Step 2.
Step 2
If the soil is overly wet, then an excess of water is the cause of the wilting and you'll need to follow steps 3 to 5.
Step 3
Water dry soil using 1/2 cup of water for every 4 inches in diameter of your cactus' pot. For example, an 8-inch pot would require a cup of water. Supply this quantity of water weekly from spring to fall, but provide this amount of water every two to three weeks during the winter.
Step 4
Ease the cactus out of the soggy soil container and knock off any excess soil to expose the roots. Inspect the roots of the plant to see if they appear firm and white or if they have turned brown and mushy. Cut off any bad, mushy roots using a clean knife.
Step 5
Rinse out and wash the old pot your plant was in or use a new pot no more than 1 to 2 inches larger in size. Fill the pot with succulent soil or an equal mix of potting soil and builder's sand.
Step 6
Plant the wilting cactus into the center of the prepared pot at an equal depth to how it was previously planted. Leave the plant unwatered for one week. Resume watering according to Step 2 for quantity and frequency during the year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Growing grains and hay can be an interesting way to make a living or enhance your garden experience, but with great grains come great responsibilities. Ergot fungus is a serious pathogen that can infect your rye, wheat and other grasses and grains – learn how to identify this problem early in its lifecycle. What is Ergot Fungus? Ergot is a fungus that has lived side by side with mankind for hundreds of years. In fact, the first documented case of ergotism occurred in 857 AD in the Rhine Valley in Europe. Ergot fungus history is long and complicated. At one time, ergot fungus disease was a very serious problem among populations who lived off of grain products, especially rye. Today, we’ve tamed ergot commercially, but you may still encounter this fungal pathogen if you raise livestock or have decided to try your hand at a small stand of grain.
Although commonly known as ergot grain fungus, the disease is actually caused by the fungus in the genus Claviceps. It’s a very common problem for livestock owners and farmers alike, especially when springs are cool and wet. Early ergot fungus symptoms in grains and grasses are very hard to detect, but if you look at their flowering heads closely, you may notice an unusual shimmering or sheen caused by a sticky substance coming from infected flowers.
This honeydew contains a huge number of spores ready to spread. Often, insects inadvertently harvest and carry them from plant to plant as they travel through their day, but sometimes violent rain storms can splash the spores between closely spaced plants. Once the spores have taken hold, they replace viable grain kernels with elongated, purple to black sclerotia bodies that will protect new spores until the next season. Where is Ergot Fungus Found? Since ergot fungus has possibly been with us since the invention of agriculture, it’s hard to believe there’s any corner of the world untouched by this pathogen. That’s why it’s so important to know how to identify ergot when you’re growing any sort of grain or grass to maturity. The consumption of grasses or grains infected with ergot has serious consequences for man and beast alike.
In humans, ergot consumption can lead to a myriad of symptoms, from gangrene to hyperthermia, convulsions and mental illness. Because of the sensation of burning and the black gangrenous extremities in early victims, ergotism was once known as St. Anthony’s Fire or just Holy Fire. Historically, death was frequently the end game of this fungal pathogen, since the mycotoxins released by the fungus often destroyed human immunity against other diseases. Animals suffer many of the same symptoms as humans, including the gangrene, hyperthermia and convulsions; but when an animal has managed to partially adapt to ergot-infected feed, it can also interfere with normal reproduction. Grazing animals, particularly horses, may suffer from prolonged gestations, a lack of milk production and the early death of their offspring. The only treatment for ergotism in any population is to stop feeding it immediately and offer supportive therapy for symptoms.
Although commonly known as ergot grain fungus, the disease is actually caused by the fungus in the genus Claviceps. It’s a very common problem for livestock owners and farmers alike, especially when springs are cool and wet. Early ergot fungus symptoms in grains and grasses are very hard to detect, but if you look at their flowering heads closely, you may notice an unusual shimmering or sheen caused by a sticky substance coming from infected flowers.
This honeydew contains a huge number of spores ready to spread. Often, insects inadvertently harvest and carry them from plant to plant as they travel through their day, but sometimes violent rain storms can splash the spores between closely spaced plants. Once the spores have taken hold, they replace viable grain kernels with elongated, purple to black sclerotia bodies that will protect new spores until the next season. Where is Ergot Fungus Found? Since ergot fungus has possibly been with us since the invention of agriculture, it’s hard to believe there’s any corner of the world untouched by this pathogen. That’s why it’s so important to know how to identify ergot when you’re growing any sort of grain or grass to maturity. The consumption of grasses or grains infected with ergot has serious consequences for man and beast alike.
In humans, ergot consumption can lead to a myriad of symptoms, from gangrene to hyperthermia, convulsions and mental illness. Because of the sensation of burning and the black gangrenous extremities in early victims, ergotism was once known as St. Anthony’s Fire or just Holy Fire. Historically, death was frequently the end game of this fungal pathogen, since the mycotoxins released by the fungus often destroyed human immunity against other diseases. Animals suffer many of the same symptoms as humans, including the gangrene, hyperthermia and convulsions; but when an animal has managed to partially adapt to ergot-infected feed, it can also interfere with normal reproduction. Grazing animals, particularly horses, may suffer from prolonged gestations, a lack of milk production and the early death of their offspring. The only treatment for ergotism in any population is to stop feeding it immediately and offer supportive therapy for symptoms.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
If a cactus breaks off, don't throw the broken piece away. Put it into cactus soil and start a new plant. Cacti, also known as succulents, are slow-
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
A cactus that has been growing upright but is now leaning like the Tower of Pisa should be a concern for the gardener. The plant may be perfectly healthy, or it may be sick. Careful observations can help determine why the plant is leaning. If a problem is detected early, solutions are available that will save the cactus.
Sunlight
Even if your cactus is planted in full sun, it may lean. Plants naturally grow toward the sunlight. The barrel cactus grows southward toward the sun so much that it practically lies over on one side. If the cactus is otherwise healthy, this is not a danger. However, if a cactus planted in partial shade is leaning, it may need more sunlight. A cactus in this condition will look sickly and have weak, flimsy stems that are yellow-green. The plant should gradually be exposed to stronger sunlight to prevent sunburn.
Improper Planting
If the cactus is leaning from the ground, it may be loosely planted in the soil. Improper watering may be the reason. After watering a cactus, the soil must be allowed to completely dry out before watering again. Watering too frequently prevents the soil from hardening around the base of the cactus and causes the soil to loosen. Provided there is no root rot, either transplanting the cactus in dry soil or packing more dirt around it is a solution. Also, adding a layer of small rocks or gravel on the surface can stabilize the cactus.
Rot
Rot is caused from fungi and bacteria growing on the plant. The most common reason for rot is watering the cactus too often. The infected spot will have a watery, slimy, black appearance. Rot begins at the base of the cactus and works its way to the top. Rotting plants start to lean, then collapse and die. If rot is detected early, dig up the cactus and replant it in dry soil. Otherwise, remove the cactus from the soil, and cut the healthy top away from the diseased part. Allow the top to dry, and dust the cut surface with a fungicide before replanting it in sandy soil.
Insects
Insects eating the stem of the cactus can weaken the plant and cause it to lean. A plant infested with mealy bugs will stop growing and take on a sickly, deformed appearance. Mealy bugs should be removed with tweezers or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. Ants nesting at the base of the cactus eat away at the stem causing it to lean and eventually fall over. Wash away the ants with a strong, lukewarm stream of water. A cactus weakened by insects may develop fungi and rot and will die if not treated.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactuses have a reputation for growing slowly, but among the 2,000-plus species is a wide variety of sizes and growth rates. Some never grow higher than a few inches while others may reach heights of 30 feet or higher. All cactus species grow fastest if they receive bright light and the correct amount of water and fertilizer. Making your cactus grow faster is a question of providing its ideal growing conditions during the warmer months of the year.
Step 1
Re-pot your cactus in a ceramic pot slightly larger than its current container. Use gloves to prevent the spines from piercing the skin and also to prevent damage to the cactus. Plant it in compost formulated for succulents or a mixture of equal parts of potting soil and coarse sand. Re-plant your cactus at exactly the same level that it sat in its original pot.
Step 2
Place your cactus on a bright, south-facing window sill or the sunniest spot in your home. Rotate the pot once a week to make sure growth is even. Aim to keep your cactus in an environment with temperatures ranging from 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer and 45 to 55 degrees during the winter.
Step 3
Water during the warmer months of the year, when the top inch of the soil is completely dry. Provide enough water to thoroughly moisten the compost and allow all excess liquid to drain away. During the winter, water only when the soil is completely dry or when your cactus starts to shrivel. Even then, provide only enough water to slightly moisten the soil.
Step 4
Fertilize your cactus once a month during the warmer months of the year with a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer formulated for succulents. Do not fertilize during the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miniature pine tree (Crassula tetragona) is a low-growing succulent shrub resembling a small pine tree, boasting a tree-like habit of bluish green, awl-shaped leaves and spring-blooming white flowers. A popular bonsai, miniature pine tree is often grown as a potted garden plant or houseplant, though it may also be grown directly in the garden where hardy. Aesthetically, miniature pine tree fits in well with rock gardens, bonsai plantings and zen-themed gardens.
Location
A native of South Africa, miniature pine tree is a heat-loving frost-sensitive plant, hardy to about 28 degrees Fahrenheit. It may be grown successfully outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, where it will thrive in full sunlight or light shade. Provide indoor plants a winter dormancy period with temperatures around 48 degrees Fahrenheit.
Soil
Like other succulents, miniature pine tree requires very well draining soil. Poorly draining soil, coupled with excessive irrigation, is a surefire recipe for the often fatal fungal disease root rot. A mixture of sand, loam, pea gravel and peat moss with a pH between 6.1 and 7.8 is ideal. Fertilize once during the growing season with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted with water to about half strength.
Maintenance
The low maintenance miniature pine tree requires water only once a month or so during the growing season, watering deeply, then allowing the soil to completely dry out before watering again. In the winter, water sparingly, just enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Miniature pine tree may be propagated by leaf or stem cuttings, rooted in moist, well-draining potting media. The plant may also be divided during the growing season or grown by seed.
Problems
Members of the Crassula genus are prone to mealybugs -- small, cottony insects that form colonies on leaves. If left unchecked, they may stunt plant growth or invite unattractive black sooty mold. The University of California Integrated Pest Management Program recommends removing mealy bugs with a direct stream of water or applying insecticidal soap or narrow-range oil. Avoid excessive use of insecticides in the home garden, which can kill the beneficial insects and parasites that prey on mealybugs.
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