文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Nothing beats the ease of bromeliad guzmania houseplant care. Growing guzmania bromeliads is simple and their unique growth habit and flower bracts will add interest to the home year round. Let’s learn more about the care of guzmanias.
Bromeliad Guzmania Plant
Guzmania plants are perennial plants in the bromeliad family. There are over 120 different guzmania plants and all are native to South America. These tropical beauties are known as epiphytic plants and attach to trees with roots that never reach the soil.
Striking bracts grow from the center of the plant and can be red, yellow, orange or deep purple depending on the species. Leaves are thin and dark green. They cause no injury to their host plant but just use them for support. The leaves collect rainwater and the plant receives nourishment in its natural environment from decomposing leaves and droppings from monkeys and birds.
Growing Guzmania Bromeliads
The guzmania plant can also be grown in a container and is known as a prized houseplant in areas outside of its native region. To pot a guzmania, put some small decorative stones or pieces of pottery in the bottom of a ceramic or terra cotta pot. The pot should be heavy, as the guzmania tends to be top heavy. Place potting medium that is specifically designed for orchids on top of stones and plant your guzmania in the pot.
Care of Guzmanias
Guzmania houseplant care is easy, which adds to this plant’s popularity. Guzmanias require low light and should be kept out of direct sunlight. Place distilled or filtered water in the central cup of the plant and replace frequently to keep it from rotting. Keep the potting mix moist during the spring and the summer months.
Guzmanias thrive in temperatures of at least 55 F. (13 C.) or higher. Because these are tropical plants, they benefit from high humidity. A light mist daily will keep your guzmania looking its best. Add a balanced fertilizer every two weeks during the spring and summer and a slow release fertilizer at the end of the summer.
Bromeliad Guzmania Plant
Guzmania plants are perennial plants in the bromeliad family. There are over 120 different guzmania plants and all are native to South America. These tropical beauties are known as epiphytic plants and attach to trees with roots that never reach the soil.
Striking bracts grow from the center of the plant and can be red, yellow, orange or deep purple depending on the species. Leaves are thin and dark green. They cause no injury to their host plant but just use them for support. The leaves collect rainwater and the plant receives nourishment in its natural environment from decomposing leaves and droppings from monkeys and birds.
Growing Guzmania Bromeliads
The guzmania plant can also be grown in a container and is known as a prized houseplant in areas outside of its native region. To pot a guzmania, put some small decorative stones or pieces of pottery in the bottom of a ceramic or terra cotta pot. The pot should be heavy, as the guzmania tends to be top heavy. Place potting medium that is specifically designed for orchids on top of stones and plant your guzmania in the pot.
Care of Guzmanias
Guzmania houseplant care is easy, which adds to this plant’s popularity. Guzmanias require low light and should be kept out of direct sunlight. Place distilled or filtered water in the central cup of the plant and replace frequently to keep it from rotting. Keep the potting mix moist during the spring and the summer months.
Guzmanias thrive in temperatures of at least 55 F. (13 C.) or higher. Because these are tropical plants, they benefit from high humidity. A light mist daily will keep your guzmania looking its best. Add a balanced fertilizer every two weeks during the spring and summer and a slow release fertilizer at the end of the summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliad plants provide an exotic touch to the home and bring a sense of the tropics and sun-kissed climates. Growing a bromeliad as a houseplant is easy and brings interesting texture and color to the interior garden. Learn how to care for a bromeliad plant and you will have a long lasting unique houseplant that is low maintenance.
Bromeliad Plants
The unusual appearance of the bromeliad would seem to indicate that the plant is high maintenance and requires special gardening skills. The plant is prized for its thick foliage that grows in a natural rosette. Near the end of its life, a bromeliad plant may produce an inflorescence or flower whose form and color vary widely among each variety. The wide leaves are sword shaped or scoop-like and grow around a central “cup.” This cup catches water in the plant’s habitat. Bromeliad plants are often epiphytic and cling to trees or other structures. They are not parasitic but simply use the structures as perches from which to gather sun and moisture.
How to Grow Bromeliads
These plants are widely available at nurseries and garden centers. The plants need medium to bright light as indoor specimens. New gardeners learning how to grow bromeliads will find that the plant doesn’t need deep pots or thick potting soils. They do even better in shallow pots and may grow in low soil mediums such as orchid mix, a blend of bark, sphagnum moss and other organic amendments.
How to Care for a Bromeliad Plant
Bromeliad plant care is easy and requires no special tools or fertilizers. Feed the plants with a half strength fertilizer every month in the growing season. Water needs are easily achieved by filling the cup at the base of the leaves. The water that collects in the pot should be emptied out weekly to remove debris and the dead insects the stagnant water tends to lure into the cup. Set the pot in a saucer of gravel filled partially with water to increase humidity and help provide a moist atmosphere. Make sure the roots are not submerged in the water or this might invite rot. Some bromeliads grow well as “air plants,” which are glued or nested onto logs, moss or other non-soil organic items. You may have seen Tillandsia plants wired onto coconut shells with no soil. These plants collect all the food and moisture they need with their leaves but need a little help from you in the indoor setting.
Bromeliad Life Cyle: Growing a Bromeliad Pup
Don’t label yourself a black thumb if your bromeliad plant begins to die within a year or two. These epiphytes are not long lived but will generally start to die back after flowering. Although interior bromeliad plants will fail after a while and cease growth, they will produce offsets, or pups, that you can remove and start as new plants. Watch for pups at the base of the plant and nurture them until they are large enough to break away from the parent plant. To remove them, cut them away from the parent and then plant them in sphagnum moss mix or any well-draining medium. Then sadly, it’s off to the compost pile with the original bromeliad plant, but you will be left with a little carbon copy that you can tend to its full maturity when the cycle starts all over again. These baby bromeliads require the same care as the parent plant. As soon as the pup forms a cup, it is important to keep it filled with water so the new plant receives adequate moisture. Growing bromeliads is a rewarding hobby that can continue for years if you harvest the pups.
Bromeliad Plants
The unusual appearance of the bromeliad would seem to indicate that the plant is high maintenance and requires special gardening skills. The plant is prized for its thick foliage that grows in a natural rosette. Near the end of its life, a bromeliad plant may produce an inflorescence or flower whose form and color vary widely among each variety. The wide leaves are sword shaped or scoop-like and grow around a central “cup.” This cup catches water in the plant’s habitat. Bromeliad plants are often epiphytic and cling to trees or other structures. They are not parasitic but simply use the structures as perches from which to gather sun and moisture.
How to Grow Bromeliads
These plants are widely available at nurseries and garden centers. The plants need medium to bright light as indoor specimens. New gardeners learning how to grow bromeliads will find that the plant doesn’t need deep pots or thick potting soils. They do even better in shallow pots and may grow in low soil mediums such as orchid mix, a blend of bark, sphagnum moss and other organic amendments.
How to Care for a Bromeliad Plant
Bromeliad plant care is easy and requires no special tools or fertilizers. Feed the plants with a half strength fertilizer every month in the growing season. Water needs are easily achieved by filling the cup at the base of the leaves. The water that collects in the pot should be emptied out weekly to remove debris and the dead insects the stagnant water tends to lure into the cup. Set the pot in a saucer of gravel filled partially with water to increase humidity and help provide a moist atmosphere. Make sure the roots are not submerged in the water or this might invite rot. Some bromeliads grow well as “air plants,” which are glued or nested onto logs, moss or other non-soil organic items. You may have seen Tillandsia plants wired onto coconut shells with no soil. These plants collect all the food and moisture they need with their leaves but need a little help from you in the indoor setting.
Bromeliad Life Cyle: Growing a Bromeliad Pup
Don’t label yourself a black thumb if your bromeliad plant begins to die within a year or two. These epiphytes are not long lived but will generally start to die back after flowering. Although interior bromeliad plants will fail after a while and cease growth, they will produce offsets, or pups, that you can remove and start as new plants. Watch for pups at the base of the plant and nurture them until they are large enough to break away from the parent plant. To remove them, cut them away from the parent and then plant them in sphagnum moss mix or any well-draining medium. Then sadly, it’s off to the compost pile with the original bromeliad plant, but you will be left with a little carbon copy that you can tend to its full maturity when the cycle starts all over again. These baby bromeliads require the same care as the parent plant. As soon as the pup forms a cup, it is important to keep it filled with water so the new plant receives adequate moisture. Growing bromeliads is a rewarding hobby that can continue for years if you harvest the pups.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Boston ferns are fabulously popular houseplants. Hardy in USDA zones 9-11, they are kept indoors in pots in most regions. Capable of growing 3 feet (0.9 m) high and 4 feet (1.2 m) wide, Boston ferns can brighten any room with their lush green foliage. That’s why it can be so disheartening to see your vibrant green fern fronds turning black or brown. Keep reading to learn what causes a Boston fern with black fronds, and what to do about it.
Boston Fern Fronds Turning Black Isn’t Always Bad
There is one case in which a Boston fern with black fronds is perfectly natural, and it’s good to be able to spot it. You may see small black spots on the undersides of your fern’s leaves, lined up in regular rows. These spots are spores, and they’re the fern’s way of reproducing. Eventually, the spores will drop to the soil below and grow into reproductive structures. If you see these spots, don’t take any action! It’s a sign that your fern is healthy. Your fern will also experience some natural browning as it ages. As new growth emerges, the oldest leaves at the bottom of the fern will wither and turn brown to black to make way for new growth. This is totally normal. Cut away the discolored leaves to keep the plant looking fresh.
When Boston Fern Fronds Turning Black is Not Good
Boston fern fronds turning brown or black may also signal trouble, however. If your fern’s leaves are suffering from brown or black spots or strips, there may be nematodes in the soil. Add lots of compost to the soil – this will encourage the growth of beneficial fungi that should destroy the nematodes. If the infestation is bad, remove any infected plants. Small, but spreading, soft brown to black spots with an unpleasant odor are most likely a sign of bacterial soft rot. Destroy any infected plants.
Small, but spreading, soft brown to black spots with an unpleasant odor are most likely a sign of bacterial soft rot. Destroy any infected plants. Leaf tip burn manifests as browning and withering tips on fronds and leaves. Destroy any infected plants. Rhizoctonia Blight appears as irregular brownish-black spots that start near the crown of the fern but spread very rapidly. Spray with fungicide.
Boston Fern Fronds Turning Black Isn’t Always Bad
There is one case in which a Boston fern with black fronds is perfectly natural, and it’s good to be able to spot it. You may see small black spots on the undersides of your fern’s leaves, lined up in regular rows. These spots are spores, and they’re the fern’s way of reproducing. Eventually, the spores will drop to the soil below and grow into reproductive structures. If you see these spots, don’t take any action! It’s a sign that your fern is healthy. Your fern will also experience some natural browning as it ages. As new growth emerges, the oldest leaves at the bottom of the fern will wither and turn brown to black to make way for new growth. This is totally normal. Cut away the discolored leaves to keep the plant looking fresh.
When Boston Fern Fronds Turning Black is Not Good
Boston fern fronds turning brown or black may also signal trouble, however. If your fern’s leaves are suffering from brown or black spots or strips, there may be nematodes in the soil. Add lots of compost to the soil – this will encourage the growth of beneficial fungi that should destroy the nematodes. If the infestation is bad, remove any infected plants. Small, but spreading, soft brown to black spots with an unpleasant odor are most likely a sign of bacterial soft rot. Destroy any infected plants.
Small, but spreading, soft brown to black spots with an unpleasant odor are most likely a sign of bacterial soft rot. Destroy any infected plants. Leaf tip burn manifests as browning and withering tips on fronds and leaves. Destroy any infected plants. Rhizoctonia Blight appears as irregular brownish-black spots that start near the crown of the fern but spread very rapidly. Spray with fungicide.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Signs of animal damage to rose plantings cause concern, especially since you devoted your time and effort to growing and maintaining the plants. Critters, including deer and rabbits, chew rose blooms, buds and leaves, and scratch stems, leaving behind a trampled mess. The otherwise shy and docile pests attack the plants at night or early in the morning, when human activity is absent. Adopt a preventive strategy to keep the animals away from your precious roses.
Step 1
Mix 2 to 3 tbsp. cayenne pepper sauce in 1 gallon of water and pour in a spray bottle. Apply the repellent over and around the rose bushes to deter the critters from damaging the plants. Alternatively, spray a commercially available contact repellent over the plantings to make them unpalatable and prevent the animals from returning to your garden. Reapply the repellent frequently, especially during the rainy season.
Step 2
Spray wolf, coyote or another predator's urine around the roses to frighten the critters and keep them from visiting your rose garden.
Step 3
Trap small pests, such as rabbits, to rid them from your rose garden. Place the traps strategically in your garden along with bait, such as slices of fruit, to lure them in. Once caught, release the rabbit far from your garden. Inspect the trap every few hours and reposition it you fail to catch the animal in a few days.
Step 4
Fence the area to keep the animals from entering your garden. Dig a trench 2 feet deep and 24 to 36 inches wide if rabbits are damaging your roses, or keep the fence 6 feet high and flush with the ground to prevent deer from jumping over. Install stakes every 4 feet along the area to support chicken wire with 1-inch openings.
Step 5
Install motion-activated lights, sprinklers or sounds around your garden that suddenly set off when stepped on. Alternatively, strategically place a scarecrow or effigy of a predator in the flower bed.
Step 6
Puncture a hole through the top of an aluminum strip or pie plate and insert a length of twine through it. Wind the other end of the twine around a low-hanging tree branch or a stake near your rose bush. Hang several strips or plates together to scare animals with their shine or clanking sounds.
Step 7
Cut a bar of sharp soap into 2-inch sections using a sharp knife and place each in a mesh bag. Alternatively, place human hair, garlic or cayenne pepper into the mesh bag and suspend from a branch near the roses to deter the pests with its offensive scent.
Step 8
Grow plants the animal does not like to keep it from frequenting your rose garden. For instance, deer avoid snapdragon, dianthus, yarrow, bee balm and vinca, so grow these around your roses to keep the animals away.
Step 1
Mix 2 to 3 tbsp. cayenne pepper sauce in 1 gallon of water and pour in a spray bottle. Apply the repellent over and around the rose bushes to deter the critters from damaging the plants. Alternatively, spray a commercially available contact repellent over the plantings to make them unpalatable and prevent the animals from returning to your garden. Reapply the repellent frequently, especially during the rainy season.
Step 2
Spray wolf, coyote or another predator's urine around the roses to frighten the critters and keep them from visiting your rose garden.
Step 3
Trap small pests, such as rabbits, to rid them from your rose garden. Place the traps strategically in your garden along with bait, such as slices of fruit, to lure them in. Once caught, release the rabbit far from your garden. Inspect the trap every few hours and reposition it you fail to catch the animal in a few days.
Step 4
Fence the area to keep the animals from entering your garden. Dig a trench 2 feet deep and 24 to 36 inches wide if rabbits are damaging your roses, or keep the fence 6 feet high and flush with the ground to prevent deer from jumping over. Install stakes every 4 feet along the area to support chicken wire with 1-inch openings.
Step 5
Install motion-activated lights, sprinklers or sounds around your garden that suddenly set off when stepped on. Alternatively, strategically place a scarecrow or effigy of a predator in the flower bed.
Step 6
Puncture a hole through the top of an aluminum strip or pie plate and insert a length of twine through it. Wind the other end of the twine around a low-hanging tree branch or a stake near your rose bush. Hang several strips or plates together to scare animals with their shine or clanking sounds.
Step 7
Cut a bar of sharp soap into 2-inch sections using a sharp knife and place each in a mesh bag. Alternatively, place human hair, garlic or cayenne pepper into the mesh bag and suspend from a branch near the roses to deter the pests with its offensive scent.
Step 8
Grow plants the animal does not like to keep it from frequenting your rose garden. For instance, deer avoid snapdragon, dianthus, yarrow, bee balm and vinca, so grow these around your roses to keep the animals away.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The Helxine soleirolii is a low growing plant often found in terrariums or bottle gardens. Usually referred to as the baby’s tear plant, it may also be listed under other common names such as Corsican curse, Corsican carpet plant, Irish moss (not to be confused with Sagina Irish moss) and mind-your-own-business. Baby’s tear care is easy and this houseplant will provide additional interest to the home.
Growing Baby’s Tear Plant
Baby’s tear has a moss-like appearance with small round green leaves on fleshy stems. Mostly sought out for its low growing habit (6 inches tall by 6 inches wide) and strikingly green foliage, this plant lacks a truly vibrant bloom. The flowers of the baby’s tear tend to be rather inconspicuous. This member of the Urticaceae group loves an elevated humidity level with moderately moist soil, perfect for terrariums and the like. Its spreading, creeping form also works well draped decoratively over the edge of a pot or can be pinched off to create a small dramatic mound of tight apple green leaves. Due to its spreading propensity, the baby’s tear plant works well as a ground cover too.
How to Grow a Baby’s Tear Houseplant
The dainty baby’s tear requires medium to high humidity, which can be accomplished easily in a terrarium environment as they tend to retain moisture. The plant flourishes in a medium exposure setting, moderate daylight. Baby’s tear houseplant can be planted in regular potting soil kept lightly moistened.
Although the baby’s tear houseplant enjoys higher humidity, it also needs good air circulation, so consider this when adding the plant to a terrarium or bottle garden. Do not cover the terrarium if including this plant. Baby’s tear is simple to propagate. Press any attached stem or shoot into the moist rooting medium. In fairly short order, new roots will have formed and the new plant may be cut from the parent plant.
Growing Baby’s Tear Plant
Baby’s tear has a moss-like appearance with small round green leaves on fleshy stems. Mostly sought out for its low growing habit (6 inches tall by 6 inches wide) and strikingly green foliage, this plant lacks a truly vibrant bloom. The flowers of the baby’s tear tend to be rather inconspicuous. This member of the Urticaceae group loves an elevated humidity level with moderately moist soil, perfect for terrariums and the like. Its spreading, creeping form also works well draped decoratively over the edge of a pot or can be pinched off to create a small dramatic mound of tight apple green leaves. Due to its spreading propensity, the baby’s tear plant works well as a ground cover too.
How to Grow a Baby’s Tear Houseplant
The dainty baby’s tear requires medium to high humidity, which can be accomplished easily in a terrarium environment as they tend to retain moisture. The plant flourishes in a medium exposure setting, moderate daylight. Baby’s tear houseplant can be planted in regular potting soil kept lightly moistened.
Although the baby’s tear houseplant enjoys higher humidity, it also needs good air circulation, so consider this when adding the plant to a terrarium or bottle garden. Do not cover the terrarium if including this plant. Baby’s tear is simple to propagate. Press any attached stem or shoot into the moist rooting medium. In fairly short order, new roots will have formed and the new plant may be cut from the parent plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Japanese aralia is a tropical plant that makes a bold statement in the garden, in outdoor containers or as a houseplant. Find out about fatsia growing conditions and care requirements in this article.
Fatsia Plant Info
The common names Japanese aralia plant and Japanese fatsia refer to the same broadleaf evergreen, known botanically as Aralia japonica or Fatsia japonica. The plant features huge, deeply lobed leaves that grow to about a foot in width atop long leaf stems that reach up and outward. The plant often leans to one side because of the weight of the leaves, and it can reach a height of 8 to 10 feet. Older plants may grow to a height of 15 feet. The bloom time depends on the climate. In the U.S., fatsia usually blooms in fall. Some people think the flowers and the shiny black berries that follow them aren’t much to look at, but the terminal clusters of bright white flowers offer relief from shades of green in deep shade where aralia likes to grow. Birds love the berries and visit the garden often until they are gone. Despite the name, fatsia is not native to Japan. It is grown around the world as a cultivated plant, and it originally came to the U.S. from Europe. There are some lovely cultivars, but they are hard to find. Here are some varieties that are available online:
‘Variegata’ has beautiful leaves with irregular white edges. The edges turn brown when exposed to sunlight.
Fatshedera lizei is a hybrid cross between English ivy and fatsia. It is a vining shrub, but it has weak attachments, so you’ll have to attach it to the support manually.
‘Spider’s Web’ has leaves splotched with white.
‘Annelise’ has large, gold and lime green splotches.
How to Grow Fatsia
Japanese aralia care is easy if you give the plant a good location. It likes medium to full shade and slightly acidic, compost-rich soil. It also grows well in large containers placed on shady patios or under trees. Excessive sunlight and strong winds damage the leaves. It is a tropical plant that needs the warm temperatures found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. Water the plant often enough to keep the soil moist at all times. Check plants growing in containers often as they can dry out quickly. Fertilize plants growing in the ground in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Use a tree and shrub fertilizer with an analysis of 12-6-6 or similar every year. Fertilize potted plants with a fertilizer designed for plants growing in containers. Follow the package instructions, withholding fertilizer in fall and winter.
Fatsia needs annual pruning to maintain a bushy growth habit and healthy, glossy leaves. Renewal pruning is best. You can cut the entire plant to the ground in late winter just before new growth begins, or you can remove one-third of the oldest stems each year for three years. In addition, remove leaf stems that reach too far beyond the plant to improve the appearance.
Fatsia Plant Info
The common names Japanese aralia plant and Japanese fatsia refer to the same broadleaf evergreen, known botanically as Aralia japonica or Fatsia japonica. The plant features huge, deeply lobed leaves that grow to about a foot in width atop long leaf stems that reach up and outward. The plant often leans to one side because of the weight of the leaves, and it can reach a height of 8 to 10 feet. Older plants may grow to a height of 15 feet. The bloom time depends on the climate. In the U.S., fatsia usually blooms in fall. Some people think the flowers and the shiny black berries that follow them aren’t much to look at, but the terminal clusters of bright white flowers offer relief from shades of green in deep shade where aralia likes to grow. Birds love the berries and visit the garden often until they are gone. Despite the name, fatsia is not native to Japan. It is grown around the world as a cultivated plant, and it originally came to the U.S. from Europe. There are some lovely cultivars, but they are hard to find. Here are some varieties that are available online:
‘Variegata’ has beautiful leaves with irregular white edges. The edges turn brown when exposed to sunlight.
Fatshedera lizei is a hybrid cross between English ivy and fatsia. It is a vining shrub, but it has weak attachments, so you’ll have to attach it to the support manually.
‘Spider’s Web’ has leaves splotched with white.
‘Annelise’ has large, gold and lime green splotches.
How to Grow Fatsia
Japanese aralia care is easy if you give the plant a good location. It likes medium to full shade and slightly acidic, compost-rich soil. It also grows well in large containers placed on shady patios or under trees. Excessive sunlight and strong winds damage the leaves. It is a tropical plant that needs the warm temperatures found in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. Water the plant often enough to keep the soil moist at all times. Check plants growing in containers often as they can dry out quickly. Fertilize plants growing in the ground in spring after the danger of frost has passed. Use a tree and shrub fertilizer with an analysis of 12-6-6 or similar every year. Fertilize potted plants with a fertilizer designed for plants growing in containers. Follow the package instructions, withholding fertilizer in fall and winter.
Fatsia needs annual pruning to maintain a bushy growth habit and healthy, glossy leaves. Renewal pruning is best. You can cut the entire plant to the ground in late winter just before new growth begins, or you can remove one-third of the oldest stems each year for three years. In addition, remove leaf stems that reach too far beyond the plant to improve the appearance.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Growing aluminum plants (Pilea cadierei) is easy and will add additional appeal to the home with pointed leaves splashed in a metallic silver. Let’s learn more about taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors.
About Pilea Houseplants
Pilea houseplants are a member of the family Urticaceae and are found in tropical regions of the world, predominantly in Southeast Asia. Most varieties of Pilea have striking variegated foliage of raised silver on deep green leaves.
Because growing aluminum plants thrive in a tropical climate, they are generally cultivated as houseplants in North America, although there are a couple of USDA zones where the Pilea houseplants may be utilized in an outdoor landscape. These plants are evergreens, which have a small insignificant flower, and grow from 6 to 12 inches in height. They have a spreading habitat, which can be fostered depending on its supporting structure. Generally, Pilea plants are grown in hanging baskets; however, when grown outdoors, they look lovely cascading over a wall or as a ground cover in suitable zones.
Varieties of Pilea
Artillery plant (Pilea serpyllacea) is a popular Pilea variety grown as a houseplant. Some additional varieties of Pilea useful for their low growing habitat and lush green spreading foliage are as follows: P. serpyllacea P. nummulariifolia P. depressa All varieties of Pilea are cold sensitive and are susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, leaf spots and stem rot.
Taking Care of a Pilea Aluminum Plant
Keep in mind your climatic zone when growing aluminum plants. As mentioned, all varieties are tropical plants and as such are really only tolerant of outdoor conditions in USDA zones 9 through 11. Areas of the deep southern Gulf States and Texas are conducive to growing aluminum plants as outdoor specimens provided they are sheltered to a certain extent. When taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant, it should be situated where the room temperature is 70-75 F. (20-24 C.) during the day and 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) at night. During the summer months, Pilea houseplants should be grown in partial shade and then during winter moved to a well lit area, such as southern exposure window space. Aluminum plant care necessitates keeping the plant away from either hot or cold drafts that arise from heaters or air conditioning units.
Aluminum Plant Care
Aluminum plant care dictates fertilizing every five to six weeks during active growth phases. Apply liquid or soluble fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions when taking care of a pilea aluminum plant. Apply fertilizer only when Pilea houseplants have damp soil; application when soil is dry may damage roots. Taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors requires well-drained potting soil and evenly moistened medium. For the most optimal success growing aluminum plants, check the plant daily and water as necessary when the soil surface appears dry. Take care to remove any excess standing water from the saucer and maintain a medium amount of light exposure. If you want to keep the plant bushy, pinch out the growing tips of Pilea houseplants. Also, take cuttings to replace plants when they become too leggy.
About Pilea Houseplants
Pilea houseplants are a member of the family Urticaceae and are found in tropical regions of the world, predominantly in Southeast Asia. Most varieties of Pilea have striking variegated foliage of raised silver on deep green leaves.
Because growing aluminum plants thrive in a tropical climate, they are generally cultivated as houseplants in North America, although there are a couple of USDA zones where the Pilea houseplants may be utilized in an outdoor landscape. These plants are evergreens, which have a small insignificant flower, and grow from 6 to 12 inches in height. They have a spreading habitat, which can be fostered depending on its supporting structure. Generally, Pilea plants are grown in hanging baskets; however, when grown outdoors, they look lovely cascading over a wall or as a ground cover in suitable zones.
Varieties of Pilea
Artillery plant (Pilea serpyllacea) is a popular Pilea variety grown as a houseplant. Some additional varieties of Pilea useful for their low growing habitat and lush green spreading foliage are as follows: P. serpyllacea P. nummulariifolia P. depressa All varieties of Pilea are cold sensitive and are susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, leaf spots and stem rot.
Taking Care of a Pilea Aluminum Plant
Keep in mind your climatic zone when growing aluminum plants. As mentioned, all varieties are tropical plants and as such are really only tolerant of outdoor conditions in USDA zones 9 through 11. Areas of the deep southern Gulf States and Texas are conducive to growing aluminum plants as outdoor specimens provided they are sheltered to a certain extent. When taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant, it should be situated where the room temperature is 70-75 F. (20-24 C.) during the day and 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) at night. During the summer months, Pilea houseplants should be grown in partial shade and then during winter moved to a well lit area, such as southern exposure window space. Aluminum plant care necessitates keeping the plant away from either hot or cold drafts that arise from heaters or air conditioning units.
Aluminum Plant Care
Aluminum plant care dictates fertilizing every five to six weeks during active growth phases. Apply liquid or soluble fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions when taking care of a pilea aluminum plant. Apply fertilizer only when Pilea houseplants have damp soil; application when soil is dry may damage roots. Taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors requires well-drained potting soil and evenly moistened medium. For the most optimal success growing aluminum plants, check the plant daily and water as necessary when the soil surface appears dry. Take care to remove any excess standing water from the saucer and maintain a medium amount of light exposure. If you want to keep the plant bushy, pinch out the growing tips of Pilea houseplants. Also, take cuttings to replace plants when they become too leggy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dr Patrick Bernard O'Kelly, after whom this orchid was named, lived in The Burren and devoted much of his time to the study of the wildflowers growing there. After his death in 1937 he was buried in the graveyard at Dumcreedy Church, near Ballyvaughan.
This controversial orchid is treated as a separate species by some botanists and by others as an indeterminate variety of Common Spotted-orchid Dactylorhiza fuchsii.
O'Kelly's Spotted-orchid is common throughout The Burren and reaches its peak flowering time in June and early July
Description
O'Kelly's Orchid usually grows to between 20 and 50 cm in height, buttaller specimens sometimes occur. The leaves are narrower than those of Common Spotted-orchid and they are not marked.
The flowers O'Kelly's Spotted-orchid are often completely white, although some have faint pink markings.
Distrbution
Although mainly associated with The Burren, this orchid occurs in several other counties of Ireland including Galway and Fermanagh as well as in Scotland and on the Isle of Man.
Habitat
O'Kelly's Spotted-orchid (also referred to simply as O'Kelly's Orchid) grows in the unimproved limestone meadows of The Burren, but it sometimes ventures into marshier areas there too.
Flowering times
Dactylorhiza fuchsii subsp. Okellyi flowers in May and June.
This controversial orchid is treated as a separate species by some botanists and by others as an indeterminate variety of Common Spotted-orchid Dactylorhiza fuchsii.
O'Kelly's Spotted-orchid is common throughout The Burren and reaches its peak flowering time in June and early July
Description
O'Kelly's Orchid usually grows to between 20 and 50 cm in height, buttaller specimens sometimes occur. The leaves are narrower than those of Common Spotted-orchid and they are not marked.
The flowers O'Kelly's Spotted-orchid are often completely white, although some have faint pink markings.
Distrbution
Although mainly associated with The Burren, this orchid occurs in several other counties of Ireland including Galway and Fermanagh as well as in Scotland and on the Isle of Man.
Habitat
O'Kelly's Spotted-orchid (also referred to simply as O'Kelly's Orchid) grows in the unimproved limestone meadows of The Burren, but it sometimes ventures into marshier areas there too.
Flowering times
Dactylorhiza fuchsii subsp. Okellyi flowers in May and June.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Formerly known as Dactylorhiza majalis subsp. occidentalis, the Hebridean Marsh-orchid is endemic to Scotland and occurs only in the Outer Hebrides on the northern coast of North Uist.
Description
This is a short plant, growing to a maximum of 18cm in height but usually much shorter than that.
Leaves of the Hebridean Marsh-orchid are very distinctive: sharply pointed and with dark purple markings separated at the base, but which merge towards the points of the leaves so that they are often uniformly dark brownish-purple.
The flowers are deep magenta - reminiscent of the colour of the Northern Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza purpurella). Lateral sepals of the flower protrude outwards and upwards almost forming a vee-shape, and the upper sepal and petals form a hood over the column of the flower.
The lip (lower petal) is deeply lobed and has dark markings in the form of loops, dashes or spots which are sometimes almost indiscernible against the rich dark purple background colour of the petal itself.
Habitat
The best place to look for this orchid is in the species-rich coastal grasslands called the Machair, a calcium-rich habitat that is home to large numbers of chalk-loving wild orchids.
The Hebridean Marsh-orchid often occurs in small groups in the damper parts of the Machair which have been under water during the winter and early spring months and which retain a high level of moisture throughout the summer.
The Machair is a good place to see other wild orchid species including Early Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza incarnata), particularly its subspecies coccinea and the Northern Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza purpurella).
Flowering times
Hebridean Marsh-orchids flower from mid-May to mid-June.
Description
This is a short plant, growing to a maximum of 18cm in height but usually much shorter than that.
Leaves of the Hebridean Marsh-orchid are very distinctive: sharply pointed and with dark purple markings separated at the base, but which merge towards the points of the leaves so that they are often uniformly dark brownish-purple.
The flowers are deep magenta - reminiscent of the colour of the Northern Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza purpurella). Lateral sepals of the flower protrude outwards and upwards almost forming a vee-shape, and the upper sepal and petals form a hood over the column of the flower.
The lip (lower petal) is deeply lobed and has dark markings in the form of loops, dashes or spots which are sometimes almost indiscernible against the rich dark purple background colour of the petal itself.
Habitat
The best place to look for this orchid is in the species-rich coastal grasslands called the Machair, a calcium-rich habitat that is home to large numbers of chalk-loving wild orchids.
The Hebridean Marsh-orchid often occurs in small groups in the damper parts of the Machair which have been under water during the winter and early spring months and which retain a high level of moisture throughout the summer.
The Machair is a good place to see other wild orchid species including Early Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza incarnata), particularly its subspecies coccinea and the Northern Marsh-orchid (Dactylorhiza purpurella).
Flowering times
Hebridean Marsh-orchids flower from mid-May to mid-June.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
Since 1974, when it was first introduced by the Monsanto Company, Roundup has been a leading weedkiller, and its active ingredient, glyphosate, has become the world's number one herbicide. Glyphosate inhibits the formation of certain enzymes in growing plants, thus causing the plants to wilt and die within a few hours to a week of application. If glyphosate freezes, it goes back into solution upon thawing, according to the University of Maine Extension.
Description of Glyphosate
Glyphosate is a post-emergent, nonselective herbicide, which means it is effective only against plants that have broken ground, and it kills any plant with which it comes in contact. The only plants that are safe from it are those that have been genetically modified to resist it. Roundup typically is applied by spraying. The active ingredient migrates through the leaves and into the phloem, which carries it to areas of new growth, where it reacts with the plant enzymes and kills the plant. Roundup also typically contains surfactants to facilitate absorption of the active ingredient by the plant.
Storing Roundup
The University of Florida Extension cautions that many herbicides can coagulate in cold weather, and when they thaw, they may no longer be effective. This isn't the case with glyphosate, according to the University of Maine and Cornell University. Glyphosate freezes at minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and when it thaws, it goes back into solution and, although neither source specifies this, should remain as effective as it was before it froze. This suggests that you can store glyphosate outside in the winter, as long as the container holding it won't suffer damage by freezing. For its part, Monsanto offers no information about storage temperatures on the Roundup label.
Applying Roundup in Cold Weather
Plants absorb Roundup most readily in moderate to warm temperatures, ideally above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, when they are experiencing peak growth. Freezing temperatures shouldn't have any effect on the efficacy of the herbicide simply because glyphosate doesn't freeze until the temperature falls below minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit. That's low enough to kill the weeds whether or not you spray them. Even if they manage to survive the cold, they still will absorb the herbicide when temperatures rise, and it will circulate, albeit sluggishly, to do its job.
Precautions
Roundup may not be effective in cold weather, even if the weather isn't cold enough to freeze. Plant metabolism may be too slow to allow the plant to absorb the active ingredient before it evaporates from the leaves. Moreover, cold weather often is rainy weather, and while Monsanto claims that 30 minutes is a safe interval between spraying and a moderately heavy rain, that interval may increase in cold weather. Consequently, you may need to spray more than once. Store Roundup in plastic, fiberglass or stainless steel containers only. It is caustic and corrodes iron or galvanized steel.
Description of Glyphosate
Glyphosate is a post-emergent, nonselective herbicide, which means it is effective only against plants that have broken ground, and it kills any plant with which it comes in contact. The only plants that are safe from it are those that have been genetically modified to resist it. Roundup typically is applied by spraying. The active ingredient migrates through the leaves and into the phloem, which carries it to areas of new growth, where it reacts with the plant enzymes and kills the plant. Roundup also typically contains surfactants to facilitate absorption of the active ingredient by the plant.
Storing Roundup
The University of Florida Extension cautions that many herbicides can coagulate in cold weather, and when they thaw, they may no longer be effective. This isn't the case with glyphosate, according to the University of Maine and Cornell University. Glyphosate freezes at minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit, and when it thaws, it goes back into solution and, although neither source specifies this, should remain as effective as it was before it froze. This suggests that you can store glyphosate outside in the winter, as long as the container holding it won't suffer damage by freezing. For its part, Monsanto offers no information about storage temperatures on the Roundup label.
Applying Roundup in Cold Weather
Plants absorb Roundup most readily in moderate to warm temperatures, ideally above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, when they are experiencing peak growth. Freezing temperatures shouldn't have any effect on the efficacy of the herbicide simply because glyphosate doesn't freeze until the temperature falls below minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit. That's low enough to kill the weeds whether or not you spray them. Even if they manage to survive the cold, they still will absorb the herbicide when temperatures rise, and it will circulate, albeit sluggishly, to do its job.
Precautions
Roundup may not be effective in cold weather, even if the weather isn't cold enough to freeze. Plant metabolism may be too slow to allow the plant to absorb the active ingredient before it evaporates from the leaves. Moreover, cold weather often is rainy weather, and while Monsanto claims that 30 minutes is a safe interval between spraying and a moderately heavy rain, that interval may increase in cold weather. Consequently, you may need to spray more than once. Store Roundup in plastic, fiberglass or stainless steel containers only. It is caustic and corrodes iron or galvanized steel.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
A greenhouse is not only the perfect environment for many plants, it can also act as a safe haven for pests such as mice. With the warmth and coziness of the greenhouse -- along with potting soil, growing fruits, seeds and plant debris -- mice who discover it find easy food and lodging. Incorporate several control measures so your greenhouse does not become the next bed and breakfast for the local mouse population.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
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成长记
Lucky Coyote
2017年08月09日
Despite recent happenings, my house plants are virtually unaffected and growing well, aside from my cats getting to their leaves 😲
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
This tiny orchid is difficult to spot, even when it occurs in colonies of many hundreds.
Description
As well as being one of the latest orchids to flower, this is also the smallest of the European orchids. Only growing to a height of 10cm at the most, the green flowers are sometimes washed with brown - only adding to the problems with their visibility. They are not so dissimilar to the flowers of the Frog Orchid Dactylorhiza viridis. There are 4 to 10 narrow pointed basal leaves and small green bracts among the flowers.
The ability to form large colonies is due to this plant's ability to spread via root tubers, but it is also pollinated by very small insects.
Distribution
Although occuring in some locations in large numbers, this orchid is very localised and rare. The picture on this page was taken in the Dolomites, in Italy. Chamorchis alpina grows in the mountains of Germany, Switzerland, Austria and France as well as in several other central and eastern European countries including Slovenia, Further north this orchid grows in Scandinavia, Finland, and in Russia its range extends far north as the Kola Peninsula.
Habitat
In more southerly parts of Europe Chamorchis alpina occurs high up above the mountain tree-lines - up to 2,700m above sea level. Further north in Scandinavia and Russia, for instance, it occurs at sea level. This plant grows in alkaline short-sward grasslands in open sunny positions.Flowering times
Chamorchis alpina flowers from the beginning of July to the end of August.
Description
As well as being one of the latest orchids to flower, this is also the smallest of the European orchids. Only growing to a height of 10cm at the most, the green flowers are sometimes washed with brown - only adding to the problems with their visibility. They are not so dissimilar to the flowers of the Frog Orchid Dactylorhiza viridis. There are 4 to 10 narrow pointed basal leaves and small green bracts among the flowers.
The ability to form large colonies is due to this plant's ability to spread via root tubers, but it is also pollinated by very small insects.
Distribution
Although occuring in some locations in large numbers, this orchid is very localised and rare. The picture on this page was taken in the Dolomites, in Italy. Chamorchis alpina grows in the mountains of Germany, Switzerland, Austria and France as well as in several other central and eastern European countries including Slovenia, Further north this orchid grows in Scandinavia, Finland, and in Russia its range extends far north as the Kola Peninsula.
Habitat
In more southerly parts of Europe Chamorchis alpina occurs high up above the mountain tree-lines - up to 2,700m above sea level. Further north in Scandinavia and Russia, for instance, it occurs at sea level. This plant grows in alkaline short-sward grasslands in open sunny positions.Flowering times
Chamorchis alpina flowers from the beginning of July to the end of August.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
When heather is in full bloom it turns moors and mountainsides a lovely mauve colour, and in some places the combination of heather and gorse creates a colourful (and often impenetrable) patchwork on hillsides and coastal cliffs.
Usually growing to about 50cm but occasionally twice that height, the flowers spikes are a lovely pale pink-to-mauve or sometimes white (known as 'lucky white heather'), and small oblong opposite scale-leaves occur along the stems.
With sepal-like bracts at the flower bases and a calyx of four pink-purple sepals, the corolla comprises four triangular lobes.
Distribution
Calluna vulgaris is the dominant heathland plant in many parts of Britain and Ireland, where it can be found on almost any heath or moorland except for very wet areas, where Erica tetralix is more at home.
In mainland Europe, from northern Scandinavia right down to the Mediterranean and the Iberian Peninsula, Common Heather is indeed common in many non-calcareous regions; it occurs also in parts of Asia.
This is the only known Calluna species, and it is easily distinguished from other commonly-encountered kinds of heathers.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Heather thrives in low-nutrient acidic soils, and so moorland an mountain slopes where thin peaty soil lies upon granite are places where you can expect Heather to flourish. Calluna vulgaris can also be found in mature conifer woodlands, often along with Erica tetralix (Cross-leaved Heath) and Erica cinerea (Bell Heather), particularly where selective felling has created small clearings or a patchwork of light and shade. Depending on longitude and the degree of sunshine exposure, Common Heather (also referred to as Scots Heather or sometimes Scotch Heather) blooms from July until September and is usually at its best in late August, brightening up the countryside when most of the other wildflowers have died back.
Uses
Traditionally, besoms are made by tying bunches of heather to a handle to make a coarse broom for sweeping floors; they were standard household items in the days of 'dirt floors' and are still pictured as 'witches' brooms'. Other past uses of Heather was in the dyeing of wood and the tanning on leather, but perhaps its most enduring value is as the source of 'heather honey'. During late summer hives of honey bees are transported to heather moorland, where the bees gather nectar from the Heather flowers and produce a very special and much valued kind of honey.
Sheep and deer eat the growing tips of Heather - as do Red Grouse, which also feed on the seeds in winter. Calluna vulgaris is also an important source of food for several kinds of butterflies.
Usually growing to about 50cm but occasionally twice that height, the flowers spikes are a lovely pale pink-to-mauve or sometimes white (known as 'lucky white heather'), and small oblong opposite scale-leaves occur along the stems.
With sepal-like bracts at the flower bases and a calyx of four pink-purple sepals, the corolla comprises four triangular lobes.
Distribution
Calluna vulgaris is the dominant heathland plant in many parts of Britain and Ireland, where it can be found on almost any heath or moorland except for very wet areas, where Erica tetralix is more at home.
In mainland Europe, from northern Scandinavia right down to the Mediterranean and the Iberian Peninsula, Common Heather is indeed common in many non-calcareous regions; it occurs also in parts of Asia.
This is the only known Calluna species, and it is easily distinguished from other commonly-encountered kinds of heathers.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Heather thrives in low-nutrient acidic soils, and so moorland an mountain slopes where thin peaty soil lies upon granite are places where you can expect Heather to flourish. Calluna vulgaris can also be found in mature conifer woodlands, often along with Erica tetralix (Cross-leaved Heath) and Erica cinerea (Bell Heather), particularly where selective felling has created small clearings or a patchwork of light and shade. Depending on longitude and the degree of sunshine exposure, Common Heather (also referred to as Scots Heather or sometimes Scotch Heather) blooms from July until September and is usually at its best in late August, brightening up the countryside when most of the other wildflowers have died back.
Uses
Traditionally, besoms are made by tying bunches of heather to a handle to make a coarse broom for sweeping floors; they were standard household items in the days of 'dirt floors' and are still pictured as 'witches' brooms'. Other past uses of Heather was in the dyeing of wood and the tanning on leather, but perhaps its most enduring value is as the source of 'heather honey'. During late summer hives of honey bees are transported to heather moorland, where the bees gather nectar from the Heather flowers and produce a very special and much valued kind of honey.
Sheep and deer eat the growing tips of Heather - as do Red Grouse, which also feed on the seeds in winter. Calluna vulgaris is also an important source of food for several kinds of butterflies.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
It's always fun as well as very interesting to find growing in the wild a plant that we buy when back at home in order to have it in the gardens! Aubrieta is one of our favourites. It manages to bloom early, even in gardens in the UK, and this is because, in the wild, it grows high up in the mountains and is used to inhospitable conditions like the English spring, which punishes so many of the other early-flowering plants.
Distribution
This neat plant with its beautiful m\uve flowers can be found in Crete, where the plants shown on this page were photographed. We have also seen wild Aubrieta in the Gargano Peninsula in Italy.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Aubrieta deltoidea grows in rocky habitats high up in the mountains, where it forms pretty cushions of flowers from March to early June.
Distribution
This neat plant with its beautiful m\uve flowers can be found in Crete, where the plants shown on this page were photographed. We have also seen wild Aubrieta in the Gargano Peninsula in Italy.
Habitat and Blooming Times
Aubrieta deltoidea grows in rocky habitats high up in the mountains, where it forms pretty cushions of flowers from March to early June.
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