文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
ZZ plant is a slow growing, reliable performer that is doggedly loyal even when you mistreat it. It is such an easy plant that creating more of them to share with friends and family seems like a good idea. Propagating ZZ plants is easy but can take up nine months or more. Learn how to root ZZ plant cuttings for a better chance at success.
ZZ Plant Leaf Propagation
It is common to find a ZZ plant in an office setting with low light and no fresh air. The uncomplaining plant, Zamioculcus zamiifolia, is also known as eternity plant, fat boy, aroid palm and many more common names. It hails from the Southeast coast of Africa and has been an important houseplant in the industry for years. ZZ plants grow from large thick rhizomes. Propagating ZZ plants is as easy as separating these or you can try rooting leaf cuttings.
Propagation of ZZ plants by division can only be done once in a while. This is because the plant produces new rhizomes very slowly and removing some frequently will damage the parent plant. Since rhizomes are slow, it is best to look at leaf cuttings as the source of material for propagation. Stems cuttings alone will not work well, but if you take a cutting with two leaves and a bit of stem, the rooting and growth is quicker than just a single leaf and no stem. ZZ plant leaf cuttings are the recommended method by professional growers and can result in new rhizomes in about 4 weeks when grown in nearly 80 degree Fahrenheit (26 C.) conditions. However, most of us don’t have greenhouse conditions so the process could take nine months or more.
Soil for ZZ Leaf Cuttings
Once you have the correct type of cutting, it is time to consider the medium. Some houseplants can root in just a glass of water; however, rooting ZZ plant in water will likely result in a rotten cutting and isn’t the best way to establish new plants. They need to be in well-drained soil or the newly forming rhizomes will mold and fall away. The best mixture for rooting is often one that is almost soilless. At best, it should have superior drainage. Try a good potting soil with plenty of vermiculite or perlite added into it or use a mixture of half peat and half perlite. The perlite or vermiculite will give the medium a light texture and help prevent soil from maintaining too much moisture.
How to Root ZZ Plant Cuttings
Take your ZZ plant leaf cuttings from mature stems. Allow the cut end to callus over for a few hours. Then insert it into your medium, cut end down. Place in a warm area with bright light during the day. Check for roots and rhizome formation after a month. Once you have a few tiny rootlets and the bud of a rhizome, you can transplant the cuttings to larger containers. It is a good idea to start many cuttings with ZZ plant leaf propagation because some of them may not take off. Additionally, checking to see if they have roots may actually kill the cutting, but if you have more than one you still have a chance of more ZZ plants. Be very patient. Some growers have mentioned the nine month period as the end of all your waiting, but it could take even longer if the cutting doesn’t have enough light and temperatures aren’t warm enough. Simply put the cuttings somewhere that you will remember to water them occasionally and wait it out. Over time, this slow grower will jump into action and provide you with the start of a new plant.
ZZ Plant Leaf Propagation
It is common to find a ZZ plant in an office setting with low light and no fresh air. The uncomplaining plant, Zamioculcus zamiifolia, is also known as eternity plant, fat boy, aroid palm and many more common names. It hails from the Southeast coast of Africa and has been an important houseplant in the industry for years. ZZ plants grow from large thick rhizomes. Propagating ZZ plants is as easy as separating these or you can try rooting leaf cuttings.
Propagation of ZZ plants by division can only be done once in a while. This is because the plant produces new rhizomes very slowly and removing some frequently will damage the parent plant. Since rhizomes are slow, it is best to look at leaf cuttings as the source of material for propagation. Stems cuttings alone will not work well, but if you take a cutting with two leaves and a bit of stem, the rooting and growth is quicker than just a single leaf and no stem. ZZ plant leaf cuttings are the recommended method by professional growers and can result in new rhizomes in about 4 weeks when grown in nearly 80 degree Fahrenheit (26 C.) conditions. However, most of us don’t have greenhouse conditions so the process could take nine months or more.
Soil for ZZ Leaf Cuttings
Once you have the correct type of cutting, it is time to consider the medium. Some houseplants can root in just a glass of water; however, rooting ZZ plant in water will likely result in a rotten cutting and isn’t the best way to establish new plants. They need to be in well-drained soil or the newly forming rhizomes will mold and fall away. The best mixture for rooting is often one that is almost soilless. At best, it should have superior drainage. Try a good potting soil with plenty of vermiculite or perlite added into it or use a mixture of half peat and half perlite. The perlite or vermiculite will give the medium a light texture and help prevent soil from maintaining too much moisture.
How to Root ZZ Plant Cuttings
Take your ZZ plant leaf cuttings from mature stems. Allow the cut end to callus over for a few hours. Then insert it into your medium, cut end down. Place in a warm area with bright light during the day. Check for roots and rhizome formation after a month. Once you have a few tiny rootlets and the bud of a rhizome, you can transplant the cuttings to larger containers. It is a good idea to start many cuttings with ZZ plant leaf propagation because some of them may not take off. Additionally, checking to see if they have roots may actually kill the cutting, but if you have more than one you still have a chance of more ZZ plants. Be very patient. Some growers have mentioned the nine month period as the end of all your waiting, but it could take even longer if the cutting doesn’t have enough light and temperatures aren’t warm enough. Simply put the cuttings somewhere that you will remember to water them occasionally and wait it out. Over time, this slow grower will jump into action and provide you with the start of a new plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Growing waffle plants as part of a dish garden or a mixed container provides unusual, cascading foliage with a purple color and metallic tint. Waffle plant info indicates that the plant, also known as red ivy or red flame ivy, grows easily indoors under the right growing conditions.
Growing Waffle Plants
Learning how to grow Hemigraphis alternata and other waffle plant species is fairly simple once you have it in the right location. Red ivy plant care requires that the plant get bright, but indirect light, meaning direct sunlight should not reach the foliage. When growing waffle plants in direct sun, much of the foliage color washes out and leaf tips can burn. Keep growing waffle plants away from drafts as well.
Waffle plant info says growing waffle plants need evenly moist soil. Consistent watering of well drained soil promotes growth and well-being of the waffle plant. However, do not allow roots of the plant to remain in a soggy soil.
Info also indicates high humidity is an integral part of red ivy plant care. Mist the plant regularly, or better yet, create a pebble tray to provide humidity to all your indoor plants. Place layers of pebbles in a plant saucer, or any container without drainage holes. Fill three-quarters of the way with water. Set the plants on top of the pebbles, or near the pebble tray. Indoor humidity is usually low, especially in winter. Pebble trays are an easy way to give your houseplants what they need. Waffle plant info says it is easy to get more growing waffle plants by propagating from stem cuttings. Take 4- to 6-inch stem pieces from the waffle plant, removing all but the top leaves, and place in small containers in moist soil.
Fertilize with a liquid houseplant food or granulated fertilizer. Water as needed to keep the soil moist and you should have rooted cuttings ready to transplant in seven to 10 days. Use the cuttings with compatible plants for more dish gardens. Now that you’ve learned how to grow Hemigraphis alternata, take advantage of its showy color in different houseplant combinations.
Growing Waffle Plants
Learning how to grow Hemigraphis alternata and other waffle plant species is fairly simple once you have it in the right location. Red ivy plant care requires that the plant get bright, but indirect light, meaning direct sunlight should not reach the foliage. When growing waffle plants in direct sun, much of the foliage color washes out and leaf tips can burn. Keep growing waffle plants away from drafts as well.
Waffle plant info says growing waffle plants need evenly moist soil. Consistent watering of well drained soil promotes growth and well-being of the waffle plant. However, do not allow roots of the plant to remain in a soggy soil.
Info also indicates high humidity is an integral part of red ivy plant care. Mist the plant regularly, or better yet, create a pebble tray to provide humidity to all your indoor plants. Place layers of pebbles in a plant saucer, or any container without drainage holes. Fill three-quarters of the way with water. Set the plants on top of the pebbles, or near the pebble tray. Indoor humidity is usually low, especially in winter. Pebble trays are an easy way to give your houseplants what they need. Waffle plant info says it is easy to get more growing waffle plants by propagating from stem cuttings. Take 4- to 6-inch stem pieces from the waffle plant, removing all but the top leaves, and place in small containers in moist soil.
Fertilize with a liquid houseplant food or granulated fertilizer. Water as needed to keep the soil moist and you should have rooted cuttings ready to transplant in seven to 10 days. Use the cuttings with compatible plants for more dish gardens. Now that you’ve learned how to grow Hemigraphis alternata, take advantage of its showy color in different houseplant combinations.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Venus flytraps are enjoyable and entertaining plants. Their needs and growing conditions are quite different from those of other houseplants. Find out what this unique plant needs to stay strong and healthy, and what to do when Venus flytraps are turning black in this article.
Why to Flytraps Turn Black?
Each trap on a Venus flytrap plant has a limited lifespan. On average, a trap lives about three months. The end may look dramatic, but there is usually nothing wrong with the plant.
When you find that the traps on a Venus flytrap turn black much sooner than they should or when several traps die at once, check your feeding practices and growing conditions. Correcting the problem can save the plant.
Feeding flytraps
Venus flytraps kept indoors depend on their caretakers to provide the insect meals they need to thrive. These plants are so much fun to feed that it’s easy to get carried away. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest the food inside. If you close too many at once, the plant uses all of its reserves and the traps begin to blacken. Wait until the traps are fully open and feed just one or two a week. If you’re feeding the right amount and the Venus flytrap is turning black anyway, perhaps the problem is what you are feeding it. If a bit of the insect, such as a leg or a wing, sticks outside the trap, it won’t be able to make a good seal so that it can digest the food properly. Use insects that are no more than one-third the size of the trap. If the trap catches a bug that is too large on its own just leave it alone. The trap may die, but the plant will survive and grow new traps.
Growing conditions
Venus flytraps are a bit fussy about their soil, water and container. The fertilizers and minerals that are added to commercial potting soils help most plants grow, but they are fatal to Venus flytraps. Use a potting mix labeled specifically for Venus flytraps, or make your own from peat moss and sand or perlite. Clay pots also contain minerals, and they leach out when you water the plant, so use plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Water the plant with filtered water to avoid the introduction of chemicals that may be in your tap water. The plant also needs plenty of sunlight. Strong light coming in from a south-facing window is best. If you don’t have strong natural light available, you will have to use grow lights. Good care and proper conditions are essential to preserve the life and health of the plant.
Why to Flytraps Turn Black?
Each trap on a Venus flytrap plant has a limited lifespan. On average, a trap lives about three months. The end may look dramatic, but there is usually nothing wrong with the plant.
When you find that the traps on a Venus flytrap turn black much sooner than they should or when several traps die at once, check your feeding practices and growing conditions. Correcting the problem can save the plant.
Feeding flytraps
Venus flytraps kept indoors depend on their caretakers to provide the insect meals they need to thrive. These plants are so much fun to feed that it’s easy to get carried away. It takes a lot of energy to close a trap and digest the food inside. If you close too many at once, the plant uses all of its reserves and the traps begin to blacken. Wait until the traps are fully open and feed just one or two a week. If you’re feeding the right amount and the Venus flytrap is turning black anyway, perhaps the problem is what you are feeding it. If a bit of the insect, such as a leg or a wing, sticks outside the trap, it won’t be able to make a good seal so that it can digest the food properly. Use insects that are no more than one-third the size of the trap. If the trap catches a bug that is too large on its own just leave it alone. The trap may die, but the plant will survive and grow new traps.
Growing conditions
Venus flytraps are a bit fussy about their soil, water and container. The fertilizers and minerals that are added to commercial potting soils help most plants grow, but they are fatal to Venus flytraps. Use a potting mix labeled specifically for Venus flytraps, or make your own from peat moss and sand or perlite. Clay pots also contain minerals, and they leach out when you water the plant, so use plastic or glazed ceramic pots. Water the plant with filtered water to avoid the introduction of chemicals that may be in your tap water. The plant also needs plenty of sunlight. Strong light coming in from a south-facing window is best. If you don’t have strong natural light available, you will have to use grow lights. Good care and proper conditions are essential to preserve the life and health of the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
If you’re looking for something unusual to grow inside the home, you may want to consider growing a telegraph plant. What is a telegraph plant? Read on to learn more about this odd and interesting plant.
Telegraph Plant Info
What is a telegraph plant? Also known as the dancing plant, the telegraph plant (Codariocalyx motorius – formerly Desmodium gyrans) is a fascinating tropical plant that dances as the leaves move up and down in bright light. Telegraph plant also responds to warmth, high frequency sound waves or touch. During the night, the leaves droop downwards. Telegraph plant is native to Asia. This low-maintenance, problem-free member of the pea family is usually grown indoors, surviving outdoors only in the warmest climates. Telegraph plant is a vigorous grower that reaches heights of 2 to 4 feet at maturity.
Why Does a Telegraph Plant Move?
The plant’s hinged leaves move to reposition themselves where they receive more warmth and light. Some botanists believe the movements are caused by special cells that cause the leaves to move when water molecules swell or shrink. Charles Darwin studied the plants for many years. He believed the movements were the plant’s way of shaking water droplets from the leaves after a heavy rainfall.
How to Grow Telegraph Houseplants
Growing a dancing telegraph plant isn’t difficult, but patience is needed because the plant can be slow to germinate. Plant seeds indoors any time. Fill pots or seed trays with a compost-rich potting mix, such as orchid mix. Add a small amount of sand to improve drainage, then wet the mixture so it is evenly moist but not saturated. Soak the seeds in warm water for one to two days to soften the outer shell, and then plant them about 3/8 inch deep and cover the container with clear plastic. Place the container in a dimly lit, warm location where temperatures are between 75 and 80 F. or 23 to 26 C. Seeds usually sprout in about 30 days, but germination can take as long as 90 days to occur or as quickly as 10 days. Remove the plastic and move the tray to bright light when the seeds germinate. Water as needed to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy. When the seedlings are well-established, move them to 5-inch pots.
Telegraph Plant Care
Water telegraph plant when the top inch of soil feels slightly dry. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly and never let it stand in water. Feed the plant monthly throughout spring and summer using fish emulsion or a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Withhold fertilizer after the plant drops its leaves and enters winter dormancy.
Telegraph Plant Info
What is a telegraph plant? Also known as the dancing plant, the telegraph plant (Codariocalyx motorius – formerly Desmodium gyrans) is a fascinating tropical plant that dances as the leaves move up and down in bright light. Telegraph plant also responds to warmth, high frequency sound waves or touch. During the night, the leaves droop downwards. Telegraph plant is native to Asia. This low-maintenance, problem-free member of the pea family is usually grown indoors, surviving outdoors only in the warmest climates. Telegraph plant is a vigorous grower that reaches heights of 2 to 4 feet at maturity.
Why Does a Telegraph Plant Move?
The plant’s hinged leaves move to reposition themselves where they receive more warmth and light. Some botanists believe the movements are caused by special cells that cause the leaves to move when water molecules swell or shrink. Charles Darwin studied the plants for many years. He believed the movements were the plant’s way of shaking water droplets from the leaves after a heavy rainfall.
How to Grow Telegraph Houseplants
Growing a dancing telegraph plant isn’t difficult, but patience is needed because the plant can be slow to germinate. Plant seeds indoors any time. Fill pots or seed trays with a compost-rich potting mix, such as orchid mix. Add a small amount of sand to improve drainage, then wet the mixture so it is evenly moist but not saturated. Soak the seeds in warm water for one to two days to soften the outer shell, and then plant them about 3/8 inch deep and cover the container with clear plastic. Place the container in a dimly lit, warm location where temperatures are between 75 and 80 F. or 23 to 26 C. Seeds usually sprout in about 30 days, but germination can take as long as 90 days to occur or as quickly as 10 days. Remove the plastic and move the tray to bright light when the seeds germinate. Water as needed to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy. When the seedlings are well-established, move them to 5-inch pots.
Telegraph Plant Care
Water telegraph plant when the top inch of soil feels slightly dry. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly and never let it stand in water. Feed the plant monthly throughout spring and summer using fish emulsion or a balanced houseplant fertilizer. Withhold fertilizer after the plant drops its leaves and enters winter dormancy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Sundews (Drosera spp.) are carnivorous plants with an ingenious way to catch their prey. Carnivorous sundew plants have sticky pads that trap insects. The plants are also attractive, often brightly colored rosettes. Growing sundews is common in terrariums or other warm, moist areas that mimic their natural bog habitat. A few tips on how to care for a sundew will have you on your way to enjoying this fascinating plant.
Sundew Plant Information
There are over 90 species of sundew. The majority are found in Australia and South Africa, but they also grow in hot, humid areas of Georgia, Florida and other similar climates. The plants prefer acidic soils and are usually where there is a bog or marsh and often grow on top of sphagnum moss. Sundews are in the genera Drosera and common varieties are often seen in houseplant stores. Sundew plant information wouldn’t be complete without explaining the trap mechanism. The plant has tiny arms or stems covered at the tips with sticky filaments. These filaments secrete a substance that will not only catch small prey but will also digest them. The arms fold in to hold the insect for four to six days until it is completely digested.
Growing Sundews
Whether you grow them indoors or out, carnivorous sundew plants are excellent for controlling gnats and other tiny insects. Sundew plants thrive as potted plants in a mixture of sphagnum moss and vermiculite or perlite. The pot must be kept constantly moist and an atmosphere of humidity is best for maximum growth. Carnivorous sundew plants need warm temperatures and moist conditions. Outdoor plants do well when planted near a water feature or even in soggy soil. When growing sundews outdoors, till soil completely and mix in sphagnum moss to increase the acidity. Full sun situations suit the plant best, but you can also grow them in dappled light.
How to Care for a Sundew
Potted plants do not need fertilizer but do require either distilled or rainwater, as they are not tolerant of high levels of minerals. Provide a humidity level of 40 to 60 percent. This is easy to do by setting a saucer filled with small pebbles under the plant and filling it with water. The evaporation will help moisten the ambient air. Cut off spent stems and leaves as they occur. Transplant them when they outgrow their pots. There are some varieties of Drosera that are more hardy than others. Check with your extension office for plant recommendations for your area. Follow the instructions on how to care for a sundew and grow a fascinating and useful plant in the garden.
Sundew Plant Information
There are over 90 species of sundew. The majority are found in Australia and South Africa, but they also grow in hot, humid areas of Georgia, Florida and other similar climates. The plants prefer acidic soils and are usually where there is a bog or marsh and often grow on top of sphagnum moss. Sundews are in the genera Drosera and common varieties are often seen in houseplant stores. Sundew plant information wouldn’t be complete without explaining the trap mechanism. The plant has tiny arms or stems covered at the tips with sticky filaments. These filaments secrete a substance that will not only catch small prey but will also digest them. The arms fold in to hold the insect for four to six days until it is completely digested.
Growing Sundews
Whether you grow them indoors or out, carnivorous sundew plants are excellent for controlling gnats and other tiny insects. Sundew plants thrive as potted plants in a mixture of sphagnum moss and vermiculite or perlite. The pot must be kept constantly moist and an atmosphere of humidity is best for maximum growth. Carnivorous sundew plants need warm temperatures and moist conditions. Outdoor plants do well when planted near a water feature or even in soggy soil. When growing sundews outdoors, till soil completely and mix in sphagnum moss to increase the acidity. Full sun situations suit the plant best, but you can also grow them in dappled light.
How to Care for a Sundew
Potted plants do not need fertilizer but do require either distilled or rainwater, as they are not tolerant of high levels of minerals. Provide a humidity level of 40 to 60 percent. This is easy to do by setting a saucer filled with small pebbles under the plant and filling it with water. The evaporation will help moisten the ambient air. Cut off spent stems and leaves as they occur. Transplant them when they outgrow their pots. There are some varieties of Drosera that are more hardy than others. Check with your extension office for plant recommendations for your area. Follow the instructions on how to care for a sundew and grow a fascinating and useful plant in the garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
If you love the look of African violets but find them a bit too difficult to grow, try a pot or two of their hardier cousins, the Streptocarpus or cape primrose. It’s said that growing Streptocarpus plants is good training for African violets because their requirements are similar, but cape primrose isn’t as delicate. Their blooms look very similar to African violets with their purple, pink and white hues, but they also possess red varieties in brilliant colors. The leaves are wrinkled and thick with a fuzzy texture and make an attractive houseplant all by themselves. Streptocarpus information is readily available, making these plants a good choice for novice growers.
Streptocarpus Care Indoors
Learning how to care for Streptocarpus is a matter of matching the plant to the environment. The cape primrose is very similar to humans when it comes to finding a comfortable home. They like the air around them to be relatively cool, around 70 F. (21 C.) during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at night. This plant loves light, but direct sunlight can burn the foliage. A home in an east- or west-facing window is perfect, but if a southern view is all you have, you can slip a sheer curtain between the plant and the windowpane to diffuse the worst of the glare.
Tips for Growing Streptocarpus Plants
The easiest way to kill off your Streptocarpus plant is by over-watering it. Give your Streptocarpus care and attention, but offer it a little bit of neglect when it comes to moisture. Make sure the planting medium has very good drainage, and allow it to dry out between watering. Propagating Streptocarpus can be a simple and enjoyable hobby. It’s very easy to create dozens of baby plants, increasing your collection and creating new plants for gifts. Cut off a large, healthy leaf with a clean razor blade and slice out the central vein, leaving two leaf halves. Plant the halves in rich potting soil by standing them up with the cut side down.
Keep the leaf halves moist until they start to sprout. After a few weeks, you will see baby plants forming along the cut edges of the leaves, sometimes as many as a couple of dozen from each leaf. Separate the plantlets once they are growing and healthy and plant each one in an individual pot.
Streptocarpus Care Indoors
Learning how to care for Streptocarpus is a matter of matching the plant to the environment. The cape primrose is very similar to humans when it comes to finding a comfortable home. They like the air around them to be relatively cool, around 70 F. (21 C.) during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at night. This plant loves light, but direct sunlight can burn the foliage. A home in an east- or west-facing window is perfect, but if a southern view is all you have, you can slip a sheer curtain between the plant and the windowpane to diffuse the worst of the glare.
Tips for Growing Streptocarpus Plants
The easiest way to kill off your Streptocarpus plant is by over-watering it. Give your Streptocarpus care and attention, but offer it a little bit of neglect when it comes to moisture. Make sure the planting medium has very good drainage, and allow it to dry out between watering. Propagating Streptocarpus can be a simple and enjoyable hobby. It’s very easy to create dozens of baby plants, increasing your collection and creating new plants for gifts. Cut off a large, healthy leaf with a clean razor blade and slice out the central vein, leaving two leaf halves. Plant the halves in rich potting soil by standing them up with the cut side down.
Keep the leaf halves moist until they start to sprout. After a few weeks, you will see baby plants forming along the cut edges of the leaves, sometimes as many as a couple of dozen from each leaf. Separate the plantlets once they are growing and healthy and plant each one in an individual pot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Indoor palm trees add an elegant and exotic feel to the home interior. Growing spindle palm indoors is a treat for northern gardeners who usually can’t grow tropical foliage in the garden. Palm tree houseplants are a great way to grow these warm weather beauties in a more diminutive form than the classic boulevard palms, which can exceed 25 feet in height. The more manageable potted palm still has all the class and glamour of its in-ground siblings with space saving sensibility.
Spindle Palm Houseplant
Spindle palm trees are fairly common indoor plants. The tree is endemic to the Mascarene Islands near Madagascar where it thrives in dry, sandy soil. It is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zone 11, but it makes an excellent indoor tree and its growth is slow enough to make it perfect for a container. There are a few things to know about growing spindle palm inside, most importantly is the amount of water this pretty palm should receive.
In their native environment, spindle palms reach 20 to 25 feet in height and can grow 6- to 10-foot-long fronds. The leaves are made up of numerous leaflets, lending the plant a lacy foliage appearance. Notably, this palm has a spindle shaped stem that widens slightly above the base and then constricts near the crown. The effect is unique and appealing, also decorated with a ringed pattern along the trunk. When planted in a container, the tree will grow slowly and remain relatively short in stature. Indoor trees usually attain a height of 6 feet at maturity. Palm tree houseplants are useful in bright light situations, such as a foyer or brightly lit dining room. Try using a spindle palm houseplant in a sunroom for a tropical feel.
Indoor Care for Spindle Palms
One of the best things about the spindle palm houseplant is its easy maintenance. The plant does best in full sun but can tolerate lower lighting. The temperature range for this plant is 35 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 26 C.). A spindle palm indoors requires consistent moisture but a well-draining planting medium to prevent sogginess. The addition of a little gritty material, such as sand, will enhance drainage and provide loose soil for best root growth. Water deeply when the soil is halfway dry. Watch for pests such as mealybugs and scale. Combat these with alcohol wipes. Occasionally, the plant will shed old leaves. When leaves turn brown, prune them off if you are impatient for the palm to shed the dead foliage on its own. Like all plants, palms, especially those in containers, need supplemental nutrients. A spindle palm indoors will have to rely on its potting soil to provide some of these nutrients. Repot the plant every two years when the soil is depleted and roots become bound.
Spindle palms are prone to potassium deficiency. Use a palm food with both magnesium and potassium. Fertilize every 2 to 3 months during the plant’s active growing period. Suspend feeding in winter. Water the plant food in well to prevent salt buildup in the soil. Indoor care for spindle palms is very straightforward and they are not terribly fussy trees. Enjoy the statuesque palm in almost any indoor setting and bring it outdoors in summer for a little fresh air and sunshine.
Spindle Palm Houseplant
Spindle palm trees are fairly common indoor plants. The tree is endemic to the Mascarene Islands near Madagascar where it thrives in dry, sandy soil. It is only hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zone 11, but it makes an excellent indoor tree and its growth is slow enough to make it perfect for a container. There are a few things to know about growing spindle palm inside, most importantly is the amount of water this pretty palm should receive.
In their native environment, spindle palms reach 20 to 25 feet in height and can grow 6- to 10-foot-long fronds. The leaves are made up of numerous leaflets, lending the plant a lacy foliage appearance. Notably, this palm has a spindle shaped stem that widens slightly above the base and then constricts near the crown. The effect is unique and appealing, also decorated with a ringed pattern along the trunk. When planted in a container, the tree will grow slowly and remain relatively short in stature. Indoor trees usually attain a height of 6 feet at maturity. Palm tree houseplants are useful in bright light situations, such as a foyer or brightly lit dining room. Try using a spindle palm houseplant in a sunroom for a tropical feel.
Indoor Care for Spindle Palms
One of the best things about the spindle palm houseplant is its easy maintenance. The plant does best in full sun but can tolerate lower lighting. The temperature range for this plant is 35 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (1 to 26 C.). A spindle palm indoors requires consistent moisture but a well-draining planting medium to prevent sogginess. The addition of a little gritty material, such as sand, will enhance drainage and provide loose soil for best root growth. Water deeply when the soil is halfway dry. Watch for pests such as mealybugs and scale. Combat these with alcohol wipes. Occasionally, the plant will shed old leaves. When leaves turn brown, prune them off if you are impatient for the palm to shed the dead foliage on its own. Like all plants, palms, especially those in containers, need supplemental nutrients. A spindle palm indoors will have to rely on its potting soil to provide some of these nutrients. Repot the plant every two years when the soil is depleted and roots become bound.
Spindle palms are prone to potassium deficiency. Use a palm food with both magnesium and potassium. Fertilize every 2 to 3 months during the plant’s active growing period. Suspend feeding in winter. Water the plant food in well to prevent salt buildup in the soil. Indoor care for spindle palms is very straightforward and they are not terribly fussy trees. Enjoy the statuesque palm in almost any indoor setting and bring it outdoors in summer for a little fresh air and sunshine.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
My mother has a number of cats, by this I mean well over 10. They are all well cared for, and even spoiled, with plenty of room to roam about indoors and out (they have an enclosed ‘cat palace’). What’s the point to this? She also enjoys growing plants, many of them, and we all know that cats and houseplants may not always work well together. Some plants are toxic to cats and others are simply overly attractive to these curious fur-balls, especially when it comes to the spider plant. Why are cats so attracted by these plants, and will spider plants hurt cats? Read on to learn more.
Spider Plants and Cats
The spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is a popular houseplant and a common fixture in hanging baskets. When it comes to the nature of spider plants and cats, there’s no denying that cats seem to be weirdly attracted by this houseplant. So what’s the deal here? Does the spider plant give off a scent that attracts cats? Why on earth are your cats eating spider plant foliage?
While the plant does give of a subtle scent, barely noticeable to us, this is not what attracts the animals. Perhaps, it’s because cats just naturally like all things dangly and your cat is simply attracted to the hanging spiderettes on the plant, or maybe cats have an infinity for spider plants out of boredom. Both are viable explanations, and even true to some extent, but NOT the sole reasons for this uncanny attraction. Nope. Cats mainly like spider plants because they are mildly hallucinogenic. Yes, it’s true. Similar in nature to the effects of catnip, spider plants produce chemicals that induce your cat’s obsessive behavior and fascination.
Spider Plant Toxicity
You may have heard about the so-called hallucinogenic properties found in spider plants. Maybe not. But, according to the North Dakota State University Extension Service, studies have found that this plant does, indeed, give off a mild hallucinogenic effect to felines, though this is said to be harmless. In fact, according to the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.), the spider plant is listed as non toxic to cats and other pets. Nonetheless, it is still advised that cats eating spider plant leaves may pose a potential risk. Spider plants contain chemical compounds related to opium. While considered non toxic, these compounds can still result in an upset stomach, vomiting and diarrhea. For this reason, it is recommended that you keep cats away from the plants to avoid any spider plant toxicity, regardless of its mild effects. Like people, all cats are different and what affects one mildly may affect another quite differently.
Keeping Cats from Spider Plants
If your cat has a penchant for eating plants, there are steps you can take for keeping cats from spider plants. Since spider plants are often found in hanging baskets, simply keep them (and any other potentially threatening plant) up high and out of reach from your cats. This means keeping them away from areas where cats are prone to climb, like windowsills or furniture. If you do not have anywhere to hang your plant or a suitable location out of reach, try spraying the leaves with a bitter-tasting repellent. While not foolproof, it could help in that cats tend to avoid plants that taste bad. If you have an abundance of foliage growth on your spider plants, so much so that the spiderettes hang down within reach of the cat, it may be necessary to prune the spider plants back or divide the plants. Finally, if your cats feel the need to munch on some greenery, try planting some indoor grass for their own personal enjoyment. In the likelihood that it’s too late and you find your cat eating spider plant foliage, monitor the animal’s behavior (as only you know what’s normal for your pet), and take a trip to the veterinarian if any symptoms seem to linger or are particularly severe.
Spider Plants and Cats
The spider plant (Chlorophytum comosum) is a popular houseplant and a common fixture in hanging baskets. When it comes to the nature of spider plants and cats, there’s no denying that cats seem to be weirdly attracted by this houseplant. So what’s the deal here? Does the spider plant give off a scent that attracts cats? Why on earth are your cats eating spider plant foliage?
While the plant does give of a subtle scent, barely noticeable to us, this is not what attracts the animals. Perhaps, it’s because cats just naturally like all things dangly and your cat is simply attracted to the hanging spiderettes on the plant, or maybe cats have an infinity for spider plants out of boredom. Both are viable explanations, and even true to some extent, but NOT the sole reasons for this uncanny attraction. Nope. Cats mainly like spider plants because they are mildly hallucinogenic. Yes, it’s true. Similar in nature to the effects of catnip, spider plants produce chemicals that induce your cat’s obsessive behavior and fascination.
Spider Plant Toxicity
You may have heard about the so-called hallucinogenic properties found in spider plants. Maybe not. But, according to the North Dakota State University Extension Service, studies have found that this plant does, indeed, give off a mild hallucinogenic effect to felines, though this is said to be harmless. In fact, according to the ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals.), the spider plant is listed as non toxic to cats and other pets. Nonetheless, it is still advised that cats eating spider plant leaves may pose a potential risk. Spider plants contain chemical compounds related to opium. While considered non toxic, these compounds can still result in an upset stomach, vomiting and diarrhea. For this reason, it is recommended that you keep cats away from the plants to avoid any spider plant toxicity, regardless of its mild effects. Like people, all cats are different and what affects one mildly may affect another quite differently.
Keeping Cats from Spider Plants
If your cat has a penchant for eating plants, there are steps you can take for keeping cats from spider plants. Since spider plants are often found in hanging baskets, simply keep them (and any other potentially threatening plant) up high and out of reach from your cats. This means keeping them away from areas where cats are prone to climb, like windowsills or furniture. If you do not have anywhere to hang your plant or a suitable location out of reach, try spraying the leaves with a bitter-tasting repellent. While not foolproof, it could help in that cats tend to avoid plants that taste bad. If you have an abundance of foliage growth on your spider plants, so much so that the spiderettes hang down within reach of the cat, it may be necessary to prune the spider plants back or divide the plants. Finally, if your cats feel the need to munch on some greenery, try planting some indoor grass for their own personal enjoyment. In the likelihood that it’s too late and you find your cat eating spider plant foliage, monitor the animal’s behavior (as only you know what’s normal for your pet), and take a trip to the veterinarian if any symptoms seem to linger or are particularly severe.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Your spider plant has happily grown for years, seeming to like the neglect and being forgotten about. Then one day little white petals on your spider plant catch your eye. Bewildered, you wonder, “Is my spider plant growing flowers?” Spider plants do bloom sometimes. Read on to learn more.
Does a Spider Plant Flower?
Spider plants do occasionally develop small white flowers at the ends of their long arching stems. Many times these flowers are so short lived and inconspicuous that they go completely unnoticed. Flowers on spider plants can grow in a cluster or can be single, depending on the variety of spider plant. Spider plant flowers are very small and white, with three-six petals.
My Spider Plant is Growing Flowers
Sometimes, certain varieties of spider plants will send out frequent flowers as a young plant but then never flower again as the plant matures. However, most spider plants won’t flower until they are mature and slightly pot bound.
If your spider plant is not sending out flowers and plantlets, it could be too much sunlight or not enough sunlight. Spider plants prefer bright, but indirect light. Spider plants also need lighting that changes with the seasons, such as more light in summer and less light in winter. It’s also a good idea to rotate hanging spider plants occasionally to give them even light for even growth.
Spider plant flowers also may not develop if the spider plant is over fertilized. You may get very bushy green plants from too much fertilizer, but no flowers or plantlets. Use only a low dose fertilizer on spider plants like a 4-4-4 or 2-4-4. If you really want spider plant flowers, you can also try a bloom boosting fertilizer in spring.
If you’re lucky enough to have a blooming spider plant, then enjoy them. You can even collect seeds from the spent flowers once the green pods have turned brown.
Does a Spider Plant Flower?
Spider plants do occasionally develop small white flowers at the ends of their long arching stems. Many times these flowers are so short lived and inconspicuous that they go completely unnoticed. Flowers on spider plants can grow in a cluster or can be single, depending on the variety of spider plant. Spider plant flowers are very small and white, with three-six petals.
My Spider Plant is Growing Flowers
Sometimes, certain varieties of spider plants will send out frequent flowers as a young plant but then never flower again as the plant matures. However, most spider plants won’t flower until they are mature and slightly pot bound.
If your spider plant is not sending out flowers and plantlets, it could be too much sunlight or not enough sunlight. Spider plants prefer bright, but indirect light. Spider plants also need lighting that changes with the seasons, such as more light in summer and less light in winter. It’s also a good idea to rotate hanging spider plants occasionally to give them even light for even growth.
Spider plant flowers also may not develop if the spider plant is over fertilized. You may get very bushy green plants from too much fertilizer, but no flowers or plantlets. Use only a low dose fertilizer on spider plants like a 4-4-4 or 2-4-4. If you really want spider plant flowers, you can also try a bloom boosting fertilizer in spring.
If you’re lucky enough to have a blooming spider plant, then enjoy them. You can even collect seeds from the spent flowers once the green pods have turned brown.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Spider plants are very popular houseplants, and for good reason. They’re very hardy, growing best in indirect light with soil that’s allowed to dry out between waterings. In other words, they work well indoors with only moderate watering. And in exchange for little maintenance, they produce long green fronds and small plantlets or “babies,” little versions of themselves that hang down like spiders on silk. Because they require so little care and have such an interesting look, spider plant problems can be a real blow. Keep reading to learn more about caring for sick spider plants.
How to Treat Diseases of Spider Plant
Caring for sick spider plants shouldn’t be too difficult once you know what to look for. There really aren’t many common spider plant diseases. It is possible for them to suffer from fungal leaf rot and fungal root rot. Root rot can usually be traced to too much watering and/or soil that doesn’t drain freely enough.
In fact, most spider plant problems can be traced to environmental issues rather than disease. You may notice the tips of your spider plant’s leaves browning and drying. This is called leaf tip burn, and it is most likely caused by too much fertilizer or too little water. It may also be due to water that has too many minerals or salts in it. Try switching to bottled water and see if you notice a change.
When caring for sick spider plants, the best course of action is usually repotting. If the source of your problem is soil that is too dense or a root bound plant, this should help to clear things up. If your plant does happen to be suffering from a pathogen or bacteria in the soil, repotting it (with new, clean, sterile potting medium) should do the trick.
How to Treat Diseases of Spider Plant
Caring for sick spider plants shouldn’t be too difficult once you know what to look for. There really aren’t many common spider plant diseases. It is possible for them to suffer from fungal leaf rot and fungal root rot. Root rot can usually be traced to too much watering and/or soil that doesn’t drain freely enough.
In fact, most spider plant problems can be traced to environmental issues rather than disease. You may notice the tips of your spider plant’s leaves browning and drying. This is called leaf tip burn, and it is most likely caused by too much fertilizer or too little water. It may also be due to water that has too many minerals or salts in it. Try switching to bottled water and see if you notice a change.
When caring for sick spider plants, the best course of action is usually repotting. If the source of your problem is soil that is too dense or a root bound plant, this should help to clear things up. If your plant does happen to be suffering from a pathogen or bacteria in the soil, repotting it (with new, clean, sterile potting medium) should do the trick.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Oxalis, also known as shamrock or sorrel, is a popular indoor plant around the St. Patrick’s Day holiday. This diminutive little plant is also suitable for growing outdoors with minimal attention, although it may need a little help getting through chilly winters. Read on to learn about growing oxalis outdoors.
How to Grow Oxalis in the Garden
Plant oxalis where the soil is moist and well drained, but never soggy. Slightly acidic soil is best. Additionally, improve soil quality and drainage by digging in a little well-rotted manure or compost before planting. Oxalis needs a few hours of sunlight every day, but plant in afternoon shade if you live in a hot climate. Oxalis leaves may wilt during hot afternoons, but they usually bounce back when the temperature drops in the evening. Keep in mind that species with darker leaves tolerate more sunlight.
Oxalis Outdoor Care
Oxalis plant care in gardens isn’t too demanding nut may include winter protection in cooler climates. Provide enough water to keep the soil evenly moist. Beware of overwatering, however, as the bulbs will rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. On the other hand, be careful the soil doesn’t get completely dry, especially during hot weather. Feed oxalis regularly during the growing season using a liquid fertilizer mixed at half strength. If you live in a warmer climate, don’t be surprised when your oxalis plant turns brown and drops its leaves in late summer. The plant is going into a period of dormancy. Withhold water during this time and resume when new shoots appear in spring.
Take steps to protect your oxalis plant if you live in a chilly climate. Hardiness varies depending on the species, and some, including purple shamrock (Oxalis triangularis), tolerate winters in USDA plant hardiness zone 6. However, most are frost-tender and won’t survive frosty weather. One option when caring for oxalis plants in winter is to pot them up before freezing temperatures arrive in fall, then bring indoors to a sunny location. You can also put the plants in a pot and allow them to go completely dormant, which means no watering. Store in a cool, unheated (but non-freezing) room. Move the oxalis plants to a well-lit location in spring, resume watering, and then move back outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, dig the bulbs and store them until spring. Gently brush off the excess dirt and place the bulbs loosely into a cardboard box. Bring them into the house until the foliage dries up, which takes about a week. Move the bulbs into a container filled with sphagnum moss, peat moss or sawdust, and store them where it’s dark and cool but not freezing.
How to Grow Oxalis in the Garden
Plant oxalis where the soil is moist and well drained, but never soggy. Slightly acidic soil is best. Additionally, improve soil quality and drainage by digging in a little well-rotted manure or compost before planting. Oxalis needs a few hours of sunlight every day, but plant in afternoon shade if you live in a hot climate. Oxalis leaves may wilt during hot afternoons, but they usually bounce back when the temperature drops in the evening. Keep in mind that species with darker leaves tolerate more sunlight.
Oxalis Outdoor Care
Oxalis plant care in gardens isn’t too demanding nut may include winter protection in cooler climates. Provide enough water to keep the soil evenly moist. Beware of overwatering, however, as the bulbs will rot in soggy, waterlogged soil. On the other hand, be careful the soil doesn’t get completely dry, especially during hot weather. Feed oxalis regularly during the growing season using a liquid fertilizer mixed at half strength. If you live in a warmer climate, don’t be surprised when your oxalis plant turns brown and drops its leaves in late summer. The plant is going into a period of dormancy. Withhold water during this time and resume when new shoots appear in spring.
Take steps to protect your oxalis plant if you live in a chilly climate. Hardiness varies depending on the species, and some, including purple shamrock (Oxalis triangularis), tolerate winters in USDA plant hardiness zone 6. However, most are frost-tender and won’t survive frosty weather. One option when caring for oxalis plants in winter is to pot them up before freezing temperatures arrive in fall, then bring indoors to a sunny location. You can also put the plants in a pot and allow them to go completely dormant, which means no watering. Store in a cool, unheated (but non-freezing) room. Move the oxalis plants to a well-lit location in spring, resume watering, and then move back outdoors when all danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, dig the bulbs and store them until spring. Gently brush off the excess dirt and place the bulbs loosely into a cardboard box. Bring them into the house until the foliage dries up, which takes about a week. Move the bulbs into a container filled with sphagnum moss, peat moss or sawdust, and store them where it’s dark and cool but not freezing.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Scheffleras are very popular house plants that produce big dark or variegated palmate leaves (leaves made up of several smaller leaflets growing out of a single point). Hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11, they are often kept in pots indoors in colder areas. However, life indoors in a pot can be hard on a plant, and can often result in leggy, unhealthy looking shapes. That’s when it’s time to prune. Keep reading to learn more about trimming schefflera houseplants and how to prune a schefflera.
Trimming Schefflera Houseplants
The tropical schefflera plant, also known as umbrella plant or tree, can grow quite large outdoors in the right climate. Indoors, this popular houseplant can be trimmed and maintained at a manageable size. Pruning schefflera plants is easy and nothing that should prevent you from enjoying this beautiful plant in your home.
If you have ever seen a native schefflera outdoors, you may be surprised to find how large they grow. When given natural light, water, and space, they can grow to be 40 feet (12 meters) tall. Indoors, they will only grow to about 8 feet (2.5 meters).
You can manage the height of your umbrella plant by trimming and shaping it. Pruning schefflera plants is not strictly necessary, but if you want a pretty umbrella shape and a certain height, or if your plant has gotten out of control, you can easily trim it. Scheffleras can have a single trunk, but they tend to have multiple stalks that branch off as the plant gets higher. If your plant isn’t getting enough light or nutrients, or if it’s just in too small of a pot, some of those stalks might get long and leggy. They might flop over under their own weight or produce leaves only at the ends. This is a good indication that it’s time for schefflera plant pruning. Pruning a schefflera plant is not especially hard – if you see a long and unhealthy looking stalk, cut it back! Cut any bad looking stalks down to 3 or 4 inches high. This should encourage new growth and make the plant more compact and dense. It may also help to move the plant to a sunnier window or transplant to a bigger pot.
How to Prune a Schefflera Plant
If you have just bought a schefflera from the nursery, it is probably 2 to 3 feet (about 1 meter) tall. As it grows, you can prune it to help maintain the shape you want and to prevent it from getting any taller than you want it to be. For indoor plants, this can be done at any time of year. Use a sharp pair of pruners or a knife and make cuts just above leaves. Make cuts to break up denser clumps and to make the plant appear more even. Strategically pruning a schefflera plant can encourage it to grow out as well as up and make for a denser, more bushy shape. Trimming schefflera houseplants can be achieved by cutting off the tops of the tallest stalks about an inch above the spot where the next leaf down is attached. This will encourage more growth outward from the stalk instead of upward.
Cutting Overgrown Scheffleras
You can also prune your schefflera if it has gotten overgrown. Make cuts to shape it and to thin it out so that light can get in and stimulate leaf growth on any bare branches. If you have a “leggy” stem, or a main stem that lacks leaf growth, you can cut it back to about six inches (5 cm.). It may seem severe, but this stem’s growth will catch up to any others. The reason it went bare may be lack of light. Be sure your umbrella plant is in a spot where it gets a lot of indirect light. Rotate it occasionally to even out leaf growth.
Trimming Schefflera Houseplants
The tropical schefflera plant, also known as umbrella plant or tree, can grow quite large outdoors in the right climate. Indoors, this popular houseplant can be trimmed and maintained at a manageable size. Pruning schefflera plants is easy and nothing that should prevent you from enjoying this beautiful plant in your home.
If you have ever seen a native schefflera outdoors, you may be surprised to find how large they grow. When given natural light, water, and space, they can grow to be 40 feet (12 meters) tall. Indoors, they will only grow to about 8 feet (2.5 meters).
You can manage the height of your umbrella plant by trimming and shaping it. Pruning schefflera plants is not strictly necessary, but if you want a pretty umbrella shape and a certain height, or if your plant has gotten out of control, you can easily trim it. Scheffleras can have a single trunk, but they tend to have multiple stalks that branch off as the plant gets higher. If your plant isn’t getting enough light or nutrients, or if it’s just in too small of a pot, some of those stalks might get long and leggy. They might flop over under their own weight or produce leaves only at the ends. This is a good indication that it’s time for schefflera plant pruning. Pruning a schefflera plant is not especially hard – if you see a long and unhealthy looking stalk, cut it back! Cut any bad looking stalks down to 3 or 4 inches high. This should encourage new growth and make the plant more compact and dense. It may also help to move the plant to a sunnier window or transplant to a bigger pot.
How to Prune a Schefflera Plant
If you have just bought a schefflera from the nursery, it is probably 2 to 3 feet (about 1 meter) tall. As it grows, you can prune it to help maintain the shape you want and to prevent it from getting any taller than you want it to be. For indoor plants, this can be done at any time of year. Use a sharp pair of pruners or a knife and make cuts just above leaves. Make cuts to break up denser clumps and to make the plant appear more even. Strategically pruning a schefflera plant can encourage it to grow out as well as up and make for a denser, more bushy shape. Trimming schefflera houseplants can be achieved by cutting off the tops of the tallest stalks about an inch above the spot where the next leaf down is attached. This will encourage more growth outward from the stalk instead of upward.
Cutting Overgrown Scheffleras
You can also prune your schefflera if it has gotten overgrown. Make cuts to shape it and to thin it out so that light can get in and stimulate leaf growth on any bare branches. If you have a “leggy” stem, or a main stem that lacks leaf growth, you can cut it back to about six inches (5 cm.). It may seem severe, but this stem’s growth will catch up to any others. The reason it went bare may be lack of light. Be sure your umbrella plant is in a spot where it gets a lot of indirect light. Rotate it occasionally to even out leaf growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
One of the easiest methods of plant propagation for cacti is by removing cactus pups. These don’t have furry ears and a tail but are the smaller versions of the parent plant at the base. Many species of cactus are known for growing cactus pups, which carry the identical characteristics of the parent without the capriciousness of seeds, which may produce plants with different characteristics. Removing offsets from cactus, also known as pups, not only produces another complete plant but is useful in containers that are overcrowded. Cactus propagation via offsets is easier than the slow growth of seed, the surgical precision of grafting and the variability of cuttings. The little cacti are small but complete copies of the parent species and simply need to be removed from the adult.
Types of Cacti That Grow Offsets
Not all cacti are capable of growing cactus pups, but many of the barrel and rosette types do. You can also find offsets on succulents such as aloe and yucca. In nature, big barrel cacti will form offsets and provide a nursery for them in the form of shared nutrients and water and by shading the young plant from harsh sun. Most offsets form at the base of the plant but some also form along the stem or even on the pads. You can remove any of these and root it for a whole new plant. Cactus propagation via offsets is easy as long as you take clean cuts, provide the right medium and allow the offset to callus. Any healthy mature cactus with offsets is suitable for removing cactus pups for propagation.
How to Remove Cactus Pups on Plants
The first step is to learn how to remove cactus pups on a plant. Get a very sharp knife and wipe the blade with some alcohol or a 10 percent bleach solution. This will prevent pathogens from entering the cut areas. Locate a pup and cut it away at a 45 degree angle. A slanted cut on the parent will deflect water so the area doesn’t rot before it can callus. Some propagators like to dust the cut end of the offset with sulfur powder to prevent fungal issues and rot. This is not necessary in most cases as long as you allow the cut end to callus fully. This may take a couple of weeks or even months. The end should be dry and hardened, slightly shriveled and whitish.
Growing Cactus Pups
After removing offsets from cactus and allowing them to callus, it is time to pot them up. The correct medium is well draining and gritty. You can purchase a cactus mixture or make your own with 50 percent pumice or perlite and 50 percent peat or compost. Cuttings only need a pot just a little larger than their diameter at the base. Cover one-third to one-half of the base with the medium or enough so the offset doesn’t fall over. Place the pup in indirect, but bright, sunlight and keep the medium lightly moist. Most cacti root in four to six weeks but some can take months. You can tell when it has rooted by noting any new green growth which indicates the roots have taken off and the plantlet is receiving nutrients and water.
Types of Cacti That Grow Offsets
Not all cacti are capable of growing cactus pups, but many of the barrel and rosette types do. You can also find offsets on succulents such as aloe and yucca. In nature, big barrel cacti will form offsets and provide a nursery for them in the form of shared nutrients and water and by shading the young plant from harsh sun. Most offsets form at the base of the plant but some also form along the stem or even on the pads. You can remove any of these and root it for a whole new plant. Cactus propagation via offsets is easy as long as you take clean cuts, provide the right medium and allow the offset to callus. Any healthy mature cactus with offsets is suitable for removing cactus pups for propagation.
How to Remove Cactus Pups on Plants
The first step is to learn how to remove cactus pups on a plant. Get a very sharp knife and wipe the blade with some alcohol or a 10 percent bleach solution. This will prevent pathogens from entering the cut areas. Locate a pup and cut it away at a 45 degree angle. A slanted cut on the parent will deflect water so the area doesn’t rot before it can callus. Some propagators like to dust the cut end of the offset with sulfur powder to prevent fungal issues and rot. This is not necessary in most cases as long as you allow the cut end to callus fully. This may take a couple of weeks or even months. The end should be dry and hardened, slightly shriveled and whitish.
Growing Cactus Pups
After removing offsets from cactus and allowing them to callus, it is time to pot them up. The correct medium is well draining and gritty. You can purchase a cactus mixture or make your own with 50 percent pumice or perlite and 50 percent peat or compost. Cuttings only need a pot just a little larger than their diameter at the base. Cover one-third to one-half of the base with the medium or enough so the offset doesn’t fall over. Place the pup in indirect, but bright, sunlight and keep the medium lightly moist. Most cacti root in four to six weeks but some can take months. You can tell when it has rooted by noting any new green growth which indicates the roots have taken off and the plantlet is receiving nutrients and water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
My grandmother had a small child’s pair of boots with a few cacti and succulents growing inside. My sister and I planted them for her some 20 years ago and they are still thriving and cute as I write. These unique planters give you some idea of the wide range of possible succulent container ideas. As long as an object can hold the soil, drain well and evaporate excess water, it can probably hold a succulent. Let’s investigate some unusual containers for succulents and see what kind of creative setting you can find for your plants.
Succulent Container Ideas
One of my favorite plant groups are the succulents because there is an endless variety of form, color and texture available in these easy-to-grow plants. Creating cunning vignettes with succulents adds even more charm to already charismatic plants. Creative containers for succulents highlight their allure and enchant the eye.
Many unusual items make exceptional pots for growing succulent plants while providing a functional container. Look around your house and see what you can find that would make unusual containers for succulents. Most succulents grow well as indoor plants in small containers. Even larger succulents tend to like to be rather cramped in their abode. Make a green scene by planting succulents in an old teapot and teacups. Place larger succulents in an old metal sieve. Even cracked crockery, statues and other old kitchen containers make whimsical centerpieces. Creative containers for succulents are only limited by your imagination. Whatever you choose, make sure there are drainage holes and the soil is appropriate for that variety of succulent. Choosing cool pots for growing succulent plants will be of no avail if you don’t treat your plants properly and give them the lighting, temperature, food and moisture needs that are optimum for that species.
Industrial Containers for Succulent Gardens
Industry is what makes nations great, so why not carve out a piece of that history and plant in it? Cement blocks with tiny succulents inside the holes highlight the strength and resilience of these little plants. An old tool box with holes punched into the base, a rusted out metal fire pit, a broken fountain and even an unused watering pot, all make magnetic planters for succulents. The older the better, and even cracked or damaged items gain a certain cache once they are adorned with plants. So cruise your local construction sites, dumps and thrift stores for magical containers for succulent gardens.
Personalized Pots for Growing Succulent Plants
The sky is practically the limit on succulent containers. There are plenty of whimsical pots you can purchase, but you can make your own quite easily. It is often best to choose an interest or theme to get you started. For instance, you may chose a themed container scheme such as all kitchen objects, musical instruments, auto parts, or a nautical theme with driftwood and seashell containers. Use an old fish tank to create a terrarium effect with sandy soil and decorative rocks. Avoid plastic and heavily glazed containers, which will tend to keep in excess moisture and can pose problems for roots. Now that you have a few ideas, roam your own property, attic and garage and you are sure to find some creative solutions for succulent planters.
Succulent Container Ideas
One of my favorite plant groups are the succulents because there is an endless variety of form, color and texture available in these easy-to-grow plants. Creating cunning vignettes with succulents adds even more charm to already charismatic plants. Creative containers for succulents highlight their allure and enchant the eye.
Many unusual items make exceptional pots for growing succulent plants while providing a functional container. Look around your house and see what you can find that would make unusual containers for succulents. Most succulents grow well as indoor plants in small containers. Even larger succulents tend to like to be rather cramped in their abode. Make a green scene by planting succulents in an old teapot and teacups. Place larger succulents in an old metal sieve. Even cracked crockery, statues and other old kitchen containers make whimsical centerpieces. Creative containers for succulents are only limited by your imagination. Whatever you choose, make sure there are drainage holes and the soil is appropriate for that variety of succulent. Choosing cool pots for growing succulent plants will be of no avail if you don’t treat your plants properly and give them the lighting, temperature, food and moisture needs that are optimum for that species.
Industrial Containers for Succulent Gardens
Industry is what makes nations great, so why not carve out a piece of that history and plant in it? Cement blocks with tiny succulents inside the holes highlight the strength and resilience of these little plants. An old tool box with holes punched into the base, a rusted out metal fire pit, a broken fountain and even an unused watering pot, all make magnetic planters for succulents. The older the better, and even cracked or damaged items gain a certain cache once they are adorned with plants. So cruise your local construction sites, dumps and thrift stores for magical containers for succulent gardens.
Personalized Pots for Growing Succulent Plants
The sky is practically the limit on succulent containers. There are plenty of whimsical pots you can purchase, but you can make your own quite easily. It is often best to choose an interest or theme to get you started. For instance, you may chose a themed container scheme such as all kitchen objects, musical instruments, auto parts, or a nautical theme with driftwood and seashell containers. Use an old fish tank to create a terrarium effect with sandy soil and decorative rocks. Avoid plastic and heavily glazed containers, which will tend to keep in excess moisture and can pose problems for roots. Now that you have a few ideas, roam your own property, attic and garage and you are sure to find some creative solutions for succulent planters.
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