文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Most rosemary plants have blue to purple flowers, but not pink flowering rosemary. This beauty is as easy to grow as its blue and purple cousins, has the same fragrant qualities but with different hued blossoms. Thinking about growing rosemary with pink flowers? Read on for information about growing pink rosemary plants.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Can rosemary survive outside over winter? The answer depends on your growing zone, as rosemary plants are unlikely to survive temperatures below 10 to 20 F. (-7 to -12 C.). If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 or below, rosemary will only survive if you bring it indoors before the arrival of freezing temperatures. On the other hand, if your growing zone is at least zone 8, you can grow rosemary outdoors year round with protection during the chilly months. However, there are exceptions, as a few newer rosemary cultivars have been bred to survive temperatures as low as USDA zone 6 with ample winter protection. Ask your local garden center about ‘Arp,’ ‘Athens Blue Spire’ and ‘Madeline Hill.’ Read on to learn about protecting rosemary plants in winter.
How to Protect Rosemary in Winter
Here are some tips for winterizing rosemary plants:
Plant rosemary in a sunny, sheltered location where the plant is protected from harsh winter winds. A warm spot near your house is your best bet. Prune the plant to about 3 inches after the first frost, then bury the plant entirely with soil or compost. Pile 4 to 6 inches of mulch such as pine needles, straw, finely chopped mulch or chopped leaves over the plant. (Be sure to remove about half of the mulch in spring.) Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that your rosemary plant will survive a cold winter, even with protection. However, you can add a bit of extra protection by covering the plant with a frost blanket during cold snaps. Some gardeners surround rosemary plants with cinderblocks before adding mulch. The blocks provide extra insulation and also help hold the mulch in place.
How to Protect Rosemary in Winter
Here are some tips for winterizing rosemary plants:
Plant rosemary in a sunny, sheltered location where the plant is protected from harsh winter winds. A warm spot near your house is your best bet. Prune the plant to about 3 inches after the first frost, then bury the plant entirely with soil or compost. Pile 4 to 6 inches of mulch such as pine needles, straw, finely chopped mulch or chopped leaves over the plant. (Be sure to remove about half of the mulch in spring.) Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that your rosemary plant will survive a cold winter, even with protection. However, you can add a bit of extra protection by covering the plant with a frost blanket during cold snaps. Some gardeners surround rosemary plants with cinderblocks before adding mulch. The blocks provide extra insulation and also help hold the mulch in place.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
While they have a very unfortunate name, rape plants are widely grown the world over for their extremely fatty seeds that are used both for nutritious animal feed and for oil. Keep reading to learn more about rapeseed benefits and growing rape plants in the garden.
Rapeseed Information
What is rapeseed? Rape plants (Brassica napus) are members of the brassica family, which means they’re closely related to mustard, kale, and cabbage. Like all brassicas, they are cool weather crops, and growing rape plants in the spring or autumn is preferable. The plants are very forgiving and will grow in a wide range of soil qualities as long as it is well-draining. They will grow well in acidic, neutral, and alkaline soils. They will even tolerate salt.
Rapeseed Benefits
Rape plants are almost always grown for their seeds, which contain a very high percentage of oil. Once harvested, the seeds can be pressed and used for cooking oil or non-edible oils, such as lubricants and biofuels. The plants harvested for their oil are annuals. There are also biennial plants that are mainly grown as feed for animals. Because of the high fat content, biennial rape plants make an excellent feed and is often used as forage.
Rapeseed vs. Canola Oil
While the words rapeseed and canola are sometimes used interchangeably, they are not quite the same thing. While they belong to the same species, canola is a specific cultivar of the rape plant that is grown to produce food grade oil. Not all varieties of rapeseed are edible for humans due to the presence of erucic acid, which is especially low in canola varieties. The name “canola” was actually registered in 1973 when it was developed as an alternative to rapeseed for edible oil.
Rapeseed Information
What is rapeseed? Rape plants (Brassica napus) are members of the brassica family, which means they’re closely related to mustard, kale, and cabbage. Like all brassicas, they are cool weather crops, and growing rape plants in the spring or autumn is preferable. The plants are very forgiving and will grow in a wide range of soil qualities as long as it is well-draining. They will grow well in acidic, neutral, and alkaline soils. They will even tolerate salt.
Rapeseed Benefits
Rape plants are almost always grown for their seeds, which contain a very high percentage of oil. Once harvested, the seeds can be pressed and used for cooking oil or non-edible oils, such as lubricants and biofuels. The plants harvested for their oil are annuals. There are also biennial plants that are mainly grown as feed for animals. Because of the high fat content, biennial rape plants make an excellent feed and is often used as forage.
Rapeseed vs. Canola Oil
While the words rapeseed and canola are sometimes used interchangeably, they are not quite the same thing. While they belong to the same species, canola is a specific cultivar of the rape plant that is grown to produce food grade oil. Not all varieties of rapeseed are edible for humans due to the presence of erucic acid, which is especially low in canola varieties. The name “canola” was actually registered in 1973 when it was developed as an alternative to rapeseed for edible oil.
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成长记
stureburk
2017年08月24日
She's been growing in a bit crooked after been left to her own devices. Hopefully she'll straighten out after some sun therapy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Oregano (Origanum vulgare) is a heat-loving, pungent herb that is found in Mediterranean and Mexican cooking. Growing oregano indoors is an excellent way to bring those flavors to your food. If you are a dedicated cook, a display of fresh growing herbs near to hand enhances your dishes and enlivens recipes. Planting oregano indoors can be done alone or in a trough with other like-minded herbs.
Planting Oregano Indoors
Indoor oregano plants need similar conditions to exterior raised plants. The ideal temperatures for growing oregano inside are between 65 -70 F. (18-21 C.) in the day and 55-60 F. (13-16 C.) degrees at night.
The container should have excellent drainage. The oregano can be planted in equal parts potting soil, sand, peat moss and perlite. When you plant the oregano, make certain only the root ball is buried and the main stems are not immersed in soil or they may rot. Place your potted oregano in bright light. Oregano can be moved outdoors in summer if you wish, but remember to bring it back in before temperatures change drastically or you may shock and kill it. Oregano grown in containers will have a harder time surviving cold weather than oregano grown in the ground.
How to Grow Oregano Indoors
Oregano is an easy to care for plant that requires at least six to eight hours of sun. A bright southern exposure window is perfect or you can use a plant light. Place the herbs no closer than 5 or 6 inches but no less than 15 inches away from an artificial light source. Oregano needs to have the soil dry out a bit in between watering and benefits from frequent haircuts to keep the plant compact and producing leaves. Fertilize the oregano every two weeks with a diluted water soluble food every two weeks. Herbs are so easy to care for that only a few items need to be remembered when learning how to grow oregano indoors.
Companion Herbs for Indoor Oregano
Growing oregano inside as a part of an herb display allows the cook to have a variety of fresh herbs available. The types of herbs planted with oregano should require the same culture and exposure. Bay, marjoram, sage and thyme have similar water and sun requirements and can be added to containers when growing oregano indoors. Any herb that likes bright light, medium water and has a moderate growth rate would make a good companion plant for oregano growing indoors. Keep any of the herbs from flowering, which reduces the life of the plant.
Planting Oregano Indoors
Indoor oregano plants need similar conditions to exterior raised plants. The ideal temperatures for growing oregano inside are between 65 -70 F. (18-21 C.) in the day and 55-60 F. (13-16 C.) degrees at night.
The container should have excellent drainage. The oregano can be planted in equal parts potting soil, sand, peat moss and perlite. When you plant the oregano, make certain only the root ball is buried and the main stems are not immersed in soil or they may rot. Place your potted oregano in bright light. Oregano can be moved outdoors in summer if you wish, but remember to bring it back in before temperatures change drastically or you may shock and kill it. Oregano grown in containers will have a harder time surviving cold weather than oregano grown in the ground.
How to Grow Oregano Indoors
Oregano is an easy to care for plant that requires at least six to eight hours of sun. A bright southern exposure window is perfect or you can use a plant light. Place the herbs no closer than 5 or 6 inches but no less than 15 inches away from an artificial light source. Oregano needs to have the soil dry out a bit in between watering and benefits from frequent haircuts to keep the plant compact and producing leaves. Fertilize the oregano every two weeks with a diluted water soluble food every two weeks. Herbs are so easy to care for that only a few items need to be remembered when learning how to grow oregano indoors.
Companion Herbs for Indoor Oregano
Growing oregano inside as a part of an herb display allows the cook to have a variety of fresh herbs available. The types of herbs planted with oregano should require the same culture and exposure. Bay, marjoram, sage and thyme have similar water and sun requirements and can be added to containers when growing oregano indoors. Any herb that likes bright light, medium water and has a moderate growth rate would make a good companion plant for oregano growing indoors. Keep any of the herbs from flowering, which reduces the life of the plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Oregano (Origanum vulgare) is an easy-care herb that can be grown indoors or out in the garden. As it is native to hot, arid regions, the oregano plant is perfect for growing in areas prone to drought. This herb also makes an exceptional companion plant for garden vegetables, repelling insect pests that commonly affect beans and broccoli. Let’s look at how to grow oregano in your garden.
How to Grow Oregano Plant
Growing oregano is easy. Oregano can be grown from seeds, cuttings, or purchased container plants.
Seeds should be started indoors prior to your region’s last expected frost. There’s no need to cover oregano herb seeds with soil. Simply mist them with water and cover the seed tray or container with plastic. Place this in a sunny location such as a window to germinate. Oregano seeds usually germinate within about a week or so. Once the seedlings have reached approximately 6 inches tall, the plants can be thinned down to about a foot apart. Oregano plants can be set out or transplanted in the garden once the risk of frost has passed. Locate oregano in areas receiving full sun and in well-drained soil. Established plants do not require much attention. In fact, these drought-tolerant herbs need watering only during excessively dry periods. Oregano doesn’t need to be fertilized either, as these hardy plants can typically take care of themselves. For optimal flavor (if growing oregano for kitchen use) or more compact plant growth, flower buds can be pinched out as they begin to bloom.
Harvesting Oregano Herb
Oregano herb plants are commonly used for cooking. Plants can be harvested anytime once they have reached 4 to 6 inches tall. Harvesting oregano leaves as flower buds form will often yield the best flavor. Harvest oregano leaves in the morning hours once dew has dried. Oregano leaves can be stored whole, placed in freezer bags and frozen. They can also be dried in a dark, well-ventilated area and stored in airtight containers until ready to use.
Oregano plants should be cut back to the ground and covered with a layer of mulch for over wintering outdoors. Container grown plants can be brought inside for growing oregano indoors year round. Now that you know how to grow oregano, you can add this tasty herb to your herb garden and enjoy it!
How to Grow Oregano Plant
Growing oregano is easy. Oregano can be grown from seeds, cuttings, or purchased container plants.
Seeds should be started indoors prior to your region’s last expected frost. There’s no need to cover oregano herb seeds with soil. Simply mist them with water and cover the seed tray or container with plastic. Place this in a sunny location such as a window to germinate. Oregano seeds usually germinate within about a week or so. Once the seedlings have reached approximately 6 inches tall, the plants can be thinned down to about a foot apart. Oregano plants can be set out or transplanted in the garden once the risk of frost has passed. Locate oregano in areas receiving full sun and in well-drained soil. Established plants do not require much attention. In fact, these drought-tolerant herbs need watering only during excessively dry periods. Oregano doesn’t need to be fertilized either, as these hardy plants can typically take care of themselves. For optimal flavor (if growing oregano for kitchen use) or more compact plant growth, flower buds can be pinched out as they begin to bloom.
Harvesting Oregano Herb
Oregano herb plants are commonly used for cooking. Plants can be harvested anytime once they have reached 4 to 6 inches tall. Harvesting oregano leaves as flower buds form will often yield the best flavor. Harvest oregano leaves in the morning hours once dew has dried. Oregano leaves can be stored whole, placed in freezer bags and frozen. They can also be dried in a dark, well-ventilated area and stored in airtight containers until ready to use.
Oregano plants should be cut back to the ground and covered with a layer of mulch for over wintering outdoors. Container grown plants can be brought inside for growing oregano indoors year round. Now that you know how to grow oregano, you can add this tasty herb to your herb garden and enjoy it!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Originating from Eurasia, motherwort herb (Leonurus cardiaca) is now naturalized throughout southern Canada and east of the Rocky Mountains and more commonly deemed a weed with a rapid spreading habitat. Motherwort herb growing commonly occurs in neglected gardens, open woods, floodplains, riverbanks, meadows, fields, riverbanks, and along roadsides; really just about anywhere. But what is motherwort besides a rather invasive plant? Keep reading to find out.
Motherwort Plant Info
Motherwort plant info lists its other common names of cowthwort, lion’s ear, and lion’s tail. Motherwort herb growing in the wild appears as a sturdy stemmed perennial of up to 5 feet tall with pink to pale purple clustered flowers of six to 15 axils, or spaces between the leaf and stem, and prickly sepals. Like other members of the mint family, the foliage, when crushed, has a distinct odor. Flowers appear from July through September.
Motherwort prefers moist, rich soils and hails from the mint family, Labiatae, with the same growing propensity of most mints too. Motherwort herb growing occurs via seed reproduction and spreads through rhizomes to form large colonies. Although shallow, the root system is very extensive. Motherwort herbs may occur in either sun or dense shade, and as mentioned in a plethora of areas. It is also extremely difficult to eradicate. Attempts to control rampant motherwort plants may include improving soil drainage and mowing close to the ground each time the shoots erupt from the soil.
Motherwort Uses
The genus of motherwort’s botanical name of Leonurus cardiaca, is descriptive of its ragged edged leaves, which resemble the tip of a lion’s tail. The species name of ‘cardiaca’ (meaning “for the heart”) is in reference to its early medicinal use for heart ailments – stimulating the heart muscle, promoting blood circulation, treating arteriosclerosis, dissolving blood clots and treating rapid heartbeat. Other motherwort uses are purported to be remedial for nerves, dizziness and “disorders of women” such as menopause and following childbirth. Motherwort herb growing is said to bring on scanty or absent menstruation and to relieve water retention, PMS, and stress or tension resulting from painful menstruation. Motherwort is prepared as either a tincture or tea for relief from any of these ailments. A caution regarding motherwort is that it contains lemon scented oil, which can cause photosensitivity if eaten and also contact dermatitis in susceptible individuals.
How to Care for Motherwort Plants
Provided that after reading my repeated commentary regarding how invasive motherwort is, you still wish to grow your own, the “how to” care for motherwort is very simple. Motherwort is an extremely hardy weed or herb, depending upon who you ask and only requires sun to light shade, most any soil type and enough water to keep moist. Motherwort herb growing will occur and steadily increase with seed broadcasting. Once the herb has laid roots, continued growth of the motherwort colony is guaranteed, and then some! Last warning, motherwort herb is a prolific and unbridled easy-to-grow plant with a propensity to take over the garden – so gardener beware. (That said, you may be able to control its rampant growth by growing the herb in containers much like its cousin the mint plant.)
Motherwort Plant Info
Motherwort plant info lists its other common names of cowthwort, lion’s ear, and lion’s tail. Motherwort herb growing in the wild appears as a sturdy stemmed perennial of up to 5 feet tall with pink to pale purple clustered flowers of six to 15 axils, or spaces between the leaf and stem, and prickly sepals. Like other members of the mint family, the foliage, when crushed, has a distinct odor. Flowers appear from July through September.
Motherwort prefers moist, rich soils and hails from the mint family, Labiatae, with the same growing propensity of most mints too. Motherwort herb growing occurs via seed reproduction and spreads through rhizomes to form large colonies. Although shallow, the root system is very extensive. Motherwort herbs may occur in either sun or dense shade, and as mentioned in a plethora of areas. It is also extremely difficult to eradicate. Attempts to control rampant motherwort plants may include improving soil drainage and mowing close to the ground each time the shoots erupt from the soil.
Motherwort Uses
The genus of motherwort’s botanical name of Leonurus cardiaca, is descriptive of its ragged edged leaves, which resemble the tip of a lion’s tail. The species name of ‘cardiaca’ (meaning “for the heart”) is in reference to its early medicinal use for heart ailments – stimulating the heart muscle, promoting blood circulation, treating arteriosclerosis, dissolving blood clots and treating rapid heartbeat. Other motherwort uses are purported to be remedial for nerves, dizziness and “disorders of women” such as menopause and following childbirth. Motherwort herb growing is said to bring on scanty or absent menstruation and to relieve water retention, PMS, and stress or tension resulting from painful menstruation. Motherwort is prepared as either a tincture or tea for relief from any of these ailments. A caution regarding motherwort is that it contains lemon scented oil, which can cause photosensitivity if eaten and also contact dermatitis in susceptible individuals.
How to Care for Motherwort Plants
Provided that after reading my repeated commentary regarding how invasive motherwort is, you still wish to grow your own, the “how to” care for motherwort is very simple. Motherwort is an extremely hardy weed or herb, depending upon who you ask and only requires sun to light shade, most any soil type and enough water to keep moist. Motherwort herb growing will occur and steadily increase with seed broadcasting. Once the herb has laid roots, continued growth of the motherwort colony is guaranteed, and then some! Last warning, motherwort herb is a prolific and unbridled easy-to-grow plant with a propensity to take over the garden – so gardener beware. (That said, you may be able to control its rampant growth by growing the herb in containers much like its cousin the mint plant.)
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
If you are a lover of all things spicy, you should be growing your own horseradish. Horseradish (Amoracia rusticana) is a hardy perennial herb that has been popular for over 3,000 years. Harvesting horseradish plants is a simple task and the resulting condiment can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks. Keep reading to find out how and when to harvest horseradish root.
When to Harvest Horseradish
Horseradish is cultivated for its pungent root. The plant is a large leaved herb that thrives in full sun but tolerates some shade. Hardy to USDA zone 3, horseradish is resistant to most diseases and adaptable to many soil types.
Plant horseradish in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Prepare the soil by digging down 8-10 inches and incorporating a generous amount of compost. Amend the soil further with either a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the amount of one pound per 100 square feet or well decayed manure. Let the plot stand undisturbed for a few days before planting the horseradish. Set the horseradish root cuttings or “sets” either vertically or at a 45-degree angle, spaced one foot apart from each other. Cover the roots with 2-3 inches of soil. Mulch around the plants with compost or leaves to help retain moisture, cool the soil and control weeds. You can then leave the plants to grow with little other maintenance other than weeding and water or you can strip the roots. Stripping the roots will give you the best horseradish roots. To do this, remove the soil around the upper ends of the main root, leaving the other roots undisturbed. Remove all but the healthiest sprout or leaves and rub off all the tiny roots from the crown and along the sides of the main root. Return the root to its hole and fill in with soil. Now that the horseradish is growing nicely, how do you know when it’s horseradish harvesting time? Horseradish growing season is during the late summer into early fall. So you won’t be harvesting horseradish plants until late October or early November, one year after planting.
How to Harvest Horseradish Root
Horseradish harvesting is a simple process. Dig a trench down a foot or two along one side of the row of plants. Dig the roots from the opposite side of the row, loosening them with a fork or shovel. Grasp the tops of the plants and tug them gently from the soil. Trim back the foliage, leaving about an inch. Trim off side and bottom roots. Save any that are 8 inches or longer for the following year’s planting stock. If you are overwintering planting stock, tie clean root cuttings together and store them in moist sand in a cool, dark area of between 32-40 degrees F. (0-4 C.). If you are storing the root for future culinary use, wash it and dry it well. Store the root in a perforated plastic bag in the vegetable crisper for 3 months or even longer…or go ahead and process it for use.
To process for use as a condiment, wash the root well and peel it. Cut into half inch slices and puree in a blender or food processer along with ¼ cup water and some crushed ice. If you like it hot, let the puree stand for three minutes and then add 2-3 tbs. of white wine or rice vinegar and ½ tsp of salt for each cup of horseradish puree. If you want a milder condiment, add the vinegar and salt immediately after pureeing. If it is too runny for your taste, use a fine meshed sieve or cheesecloth to drain out some of the liquid. The resulting condiment can be stored in a sealed container for up to 4-6 weeks in your refrigerator.
When to Harvest Horseradish
Horseradish is cultivated for its pungent root. The plant is a large leaved herb that thrives in full sun but tolerates some shade. Hardy to USDA zone 3, horseradish is resistant to most diseases and adaptable to many soil types.
Plant horseradish in the spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Prepare the soil by digging down 8-10 inches and incorporating a generous amount of compost. Amend the soil further with either a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the amount of one pound per 100 square feet or well decayed manure. Let the plot stand undisturbed for a few days before planting the horseradish. Set the horseradish root cuttings or “sets” either vertically or at a 45-degree angle, spaced one foot apart from each other. Cover the roots with 2-3 inches of soil. Mulch around the plants with compost or leaves to help retain moisture, cool the soil and control weeds. You can then leave the plants to grow with little other maintenance other than weeding and water or you can strip the roots. Stripping the roots will give you the best horseradish roots. To do this, remove the soil around the upper ends of the main root, leaving the other roots undisturbed. Remove all but the healthiest sprout or leaves and rub off all the tiny roots from the crown and along the sides of the main root. Return the root to its hole and fill in with soil. Now that the horseradish is growing nicely, how do you know when it’s horseradish harvesting time? Horseradish growing season is during the late summer into early fall. So you won’t be harvesting horseradish plants until late October or early November, one year after planting.
How to Harvest Horseradish Root
Horseradish harvesting is a simple process. Dig a trench down a foot or two along one side of the row of plants. Dig the roots from the opposite side of the row, loosening them with a fork or shovel. Grasp the tops of the plants and tug them gently from the soil. Trim back the foliage, leaving about an inch. Trim off side and bottom roots. Save any that are 8 inches or longer for the following year’s planting stock. If you are overwintering planting stock, tie clean root cuttings together and store them in moist sand in a cool, dark area of between 32-40 degrees F. (0-4 C.). If you are storing the root for future culinary use, wash it and dry it well. Store the root in a perforated plastic bag in the vegetable crisper for 3 months or even longer…or go ahead and process it for use.
To process for use as a condiment, wash the root well and peel it. Cut into half inch slices and puree in a blender or food processer along with ¼ cup water and some crushed ice. If you like it hot, let the puree stand for three minutes and then add 2-3 tbs. of white wine or rice vinegar and ½ tsp of salt for each cup of horseradish puree. If you want a milder condiment, add the vinegar and salt immediately after pureeing. If it is too runny for your taste, use a fine meshed sieve or cheesecloth to drain out some of the liquid. The resulting condiment can be stored in a sealed container for up to 4-6 weeks in your refrigerator.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Only people who have grown horseradish in their garden know how truly pungent and delicious horseradish can be. Growing horseradish in your garden is easy. Just follow these tips on how to grow horseradish and you will be harvesting horseradish for many years to come.
Planting Horseradish
A horseradish plant (Amoracia rusticana) is typically grown from a root cutting. These can be ordered from a reputable nursery or you may be able to find someone locally who is raising horseradish and would be willing to share some of their horseradish plant with you.
As soon as you get your root cutting in early spring, plant it in the ground. Dig a hole that is deep enough to stand the root up. While holding the root upright in the hole, back fill the hole until all but the crown of the root is covered. Once the root is planted, water your horseradish thoroughly, then leave it alone. When raising horseradish, you don’t need to fertilize or fuss over the plant.
Containing a Horseradish Plant
Once your horseradish plant becomes established, it will be yours for life. One thing to keep in mind is that when growing horseradish, you need to either give it lots of room or provide firm boundaries. Horseradish will spread vigorously if steps are not taken to contain it. If you do not wish for your horseradish plant to take over your garden, either grow it in a deep container or bury a plastic tub around it in the ground. This will keep the growing horseradish plant in check.
Harvesting Horseradish
There are two schools of thought when it comes to harvesting horseradish. One says that you should be harvesting horseradish in the fall, right after the first frost. The other says that you should be harvesting horseradish in early spring, when the horseradish plant needs to be divided anyway. Which of these is best is up to you. Both are acceptable. Dig down around the horseradish plant as far as you possibly can and then with your spade, gently lift the horseradish root out of the ground. Break off some of the roots and replant them in the ground. The rest of the horseradish root can be processed into ground horseradish. Raising horseradish is very easy to do. There is very little to know about how to grow horseradish. It actually does best if you plant it and then ignore it. Growing horseradish can be rewarding and tasty.
Planting Horseradish
A horseradish plant (Amoracia rusticana) is typically grown from a root cutting. These can be ordered from a reputable nursery or you may be able to find someone locally who is raising horseradish and would be willing to share some of their horseradish plant with you.
As soon as you get your root cutting in early spring, plant it in the ground. Dig a hole that is deep enough to stand the root up. While holding the root upright in the hole, back fill the hole until all but the crown of the root is covered. Once the root is planted, water your horseradish thoroughly, then leave it alone. When raising horseradish, you don’t need to fertilize or fuss over the plant.
Containing a Horseradish Plant
Once your horseradish plant becomes established, it will be yours for life. One thing to keep in mind is that when growing horseradish, you need to either give it lots of room or provide firm boundaries. Horseradish will spread vigorously if steps are not taken to contain it. If you do not wish for your horseradish plant to take over your garden, either grow it in a deep container or bury a plastic tub around it in the ground. This will keep the growing horseradish plant in check.
Harvesting Horseradish
There are two schools of thought when it comes to harvesting horseradish. One says that you should be harvesting horseradish in the fall, right after the first frost. The other says that you should be harvesting horseradish in early spring, when the horseradish plant needs to be divided anyway. Which of these is best is up to you. Both are acceptable. Dig down around the horseradish plant as far as you possibly can and then with your spade, gently lift the horseradish root out of the ground. Break off some of the roots and replant them in the ground. The rest of the horseradish root can be processed into ground horseradish. Raising horseradish is very easy to do. There is very little to know about how to grow horseradish. It actually does best if you plant it and then ignore it. Growing horseradish can be rewarding and tasty.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Once in awhile someone wonders how to grow garlic from seed. While growing garlic is easy, there’s no sure way to do so using garlic seed. Garlic is typically grown from cloves.
Garlic Seed Propagation
Garlic doesn’t usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic.
Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. But for the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves, which are found inside the bulbils. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties, which can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don’t normally produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.
How to Grow Garlic
Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that’s been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic anytime in autumn, provided it’s early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches deep and spacing about 6 inches.
Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.
Garlic Seed Propagation
Garlic doesn’t usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic.
Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. But for the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves, which are found inside the bulbils. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties, which can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don’t normally produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.
How to Grow Garlic
Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that’s been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic anytime in autumn, provided it’s early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches deep and spacing about 6 inches.
Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Not only does garlic keep the vampires at bay but it also makes everything taste better. Fresh garlic from potted garlic plants, keeps the nearby bulbs crisper and more pungent than any from the grocery. Growing garlic in containers takes some planning and the right type of container. Read on for some tips on how to grow garlic in a container and capture the head bite of fresh bulbs in your home recipes.
Container Gardening for Garlic
Garlic is in the Allium family, which includes onions and shallots. The bulbs are the most powerful flavor on the plants, but the greens are also eaten. It is these heady bulbs which are the basis for planting. Each is planted 2 to 3 inches deep and must also have room for the roots to grow. This should be a consideration when choosing your container. Garlic planted in fall is ready for harvest by June. Growing produce in pots near the kitchen is a space-saving trick, but also allows the cook in the family easy access to the freshest ingredients possible.
Containers for Growing Garlic
Growing garlic in containers provides that just-picked flavor for the strongest bulbs ever. You need one that is at least 6 inches deep and has excellent drainage. The container also needs to be big enough to leave 6 inches of space between cloves. Other things to consider are evaporation rate and heat conductivity. Terra cotta pots evaporate more quickly and will need to be watered more often than glazed pots. If you don’t care about appearance, you can even use a 5-gallon bucket with holes punched into the bottom.
Soil Mixture for Potted Garlic Plants
The proper soil medium is important for garlic planting in pots. It can’t retain too much moisture nor be too dry, and should have plenty of organic nutrients available for the bulbs. A good mix of peat, perlite or vermiculite, potting mix or compost and a little bit of builder’s sand will give you the drainage, moisture retention and nutrients necessary for growing garlic in containers. Container gardening for garlic can also include some early harvest cool vegetables, such as lettuce, which will be harvested before winter’s chill in most cases. Lettuces planted over un-sprouted cloves will minimize weeds and keep the soil broken up with their roots.
How to Grow Garlic in a Container
Once you have your planting medium and container, fill the receptacle halfway full of the soil mix. Add a slow release granular balanced plant food, such as a 10-10-10, and mix into the soil. Insert the bulbs with the pointed side up and then back fill with more soil, pressing around each clove. If moisture is minimal, water the soil until it is evenly damp. Plant a short-term crop on top or simply cover the container with organic mulch. In spring the shoots will come up and eventually turn into scapes. Harvest these for stir fry or just to eat raw. By late June, your garlic is ready to dig up and cure. Container gardening for garlic is that easy and very rewarding. Try it as an annual part of your fall planting for delicious ready-to-grab flavor and zing in all your food.
Container Gardening for Garlic
Garlic is in the Allium family, which includes onions and shallots. The bulbs are the most powerful flavor on the plants, but the greens are also eaten. It is these heady bulbs which are the basis for planting. Each is planted 2 to 3 inches deep and must also have room for the roots to grow. This should be a consideration when choosing your container. Garlic planted in fall is ready for harvest by June. Growing produce in pots near the kitchen is a space-saving trick, but also allows the cook in the family easy access to the freshest ingredients possible.
Containers for Growing Garlic
Growing garlic in containers provides that just-picked flavor for the strongest bulbs ever. You need one that is at least 6 inches deep and has excellent drainage. The container also needs to be big enough to leave 6 inches of space between cloves. Other things to consider are evaporation rate and heat conductivity. Terra cotta pots evaporate more quickly and will need to be watered more often than glazed pots. If you don’t care about appearance, you can even use a 5-gallon bucket with holes punched into the bottom.
Soil Mixture for Potted Garlic Plants
The proper soil medium is important for garlic planting in pots. It can’t retain too much moisture nor be too dry, and should have plenty of organic nutrients available for the bulbs. A good mix of peat, perlite or vermiculite, potting mix or compost and a little bit of builder’s sand will give you the drainage, moisture retention and nutrients necessary for growing garlic in containers. Container gardening for garlic can also include some early harvest cool vegetables, such as lettuce, which will be harvested before winter’s chill in most cases. Lettuces planted over un-sprouted cloves will minimize weeds and keep the soil broken up with their roots.
How to Grow Garlic in a Container
Once you have your planting medium and container, fill the receptacle halfway full of the soil mix. Add a slow release granular balanced plant food, such as a 10-10-10, and mix into the soil. Insert the bulbs with the pointed side up and then back fill with more soil, pressing around each clove. If moisture is minimal, water the soil until it is evenly damp. Plant a short-term crop on top or simply cover the container with organic mulch. In spring the shoots will come up and eventually turn into scapes. Harvest these for stir fry or just to eat raw. By late June, your garlic is ready to dig up and cure. Container gardening for garlic is that easy and very rewarding. Try it as an annual part of your fall planting for delicious ready-to-grab flavor and zing in all your food.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic propagation is often associated with the planting of garlic cloves, also referred to as vegetative reproduction or cloning. Another method for commercial propagation is on the rise too — growing garlic from bulbils. The question is can you, the home gardener, grow garlic from bulbils?
Can You Grow Garlic Bulbils?
First off, you may be wondering what a “bulbil” is. Bulbils are tiny, undivided bulbs produced in the scape of hardneck garlic. The scape looks like a garlic flower; however, the reproductive parts are for show only, there is no cross pollination. Essentially, the bulbils are clones of the mother plant that can be planted to produce a replica of this parent.
There may be less than 10 garlic plant bulbils or 150, depending upon the variety. Bulbil size ranges as well, from that of a grain of rice to the size of a chickpea. So the answer is yes, you can easily grow garlic from bulbils. There is an advantage to planting garlic bulbils over cloves. Propagating from garlic plant bulbils can revitalize garlic strains, thwart the transmission of soil-borne diseases and is economical as well. Now I’m betting you want to know how to grow garlic from bulbils, but first you need to harvest them.
Harvesting Garlic Plant Bulbils
Harvest the bulbils when mature or when the cluster has expanded and split open the sheath surrounding it. You may cut this from the plant, or hang and dry the entire plant. Drying takes a significant amount of time, so be sure to hang the scape or plant in a dry area lest they mildew. When the bulbils are easily removed by lightly rubbing, you are ready to separate them from the clusters, remove the chaff and dry further in a shallow pan in an aerated area with no direct sun. They can then be stored at room temp or cooler for six to seven months in an unsealed container. Do not refrigerate.
How to Grow Garlic from Bulbils
Garlic likes rich, well-drained soil amended with a good dose of compost and a soil pH of 6 to 8. Rocky or heavy clay soil will produce misshapen bulbs. Sow bulbils in a raised bed ½ to 1 inch deep, depending upon their size, and about 6 inches apart. The depth difference when planting garlic bulbils accounts for their size; tiny bulbils should be sown at a shallower depth. Space the rows 6 inches apart. Cover the bulbils with dirt and water in well. Keep the area weed free. The tiny bulbils take about three years to produce a good sized cloven bulb while the larger bulbils will produce small cloven bulbs in the first year. In the second year, harvest the bulbils and cure like garlic and then replant the “round” that fall. By the third year, the growing garlic from bulbils should be of that of a normal sized bulb.
Can You Grow Garlic Bulbils?
First off, you may be wondering what a “bulbil” is. Bulbils are tiny, undivided bulbs produced in the scape of hardneck garlic. The scape looks like a garlic flower; however, the reproductive parts are for show only, there is no cross pollination. Essentially, the bulbils are clones of the mother plant that can be planted to produce a replica of this parent.
There may be less than 10 garlic plant bulbils or 150, depending upon the variety. Bulbil size ranges as well, from that of a grain of rice to the size of a chickpea. So the answer is yes, you can easily grow garlic from bulbils. There is an advantage to planting garlic bulbils over cloves. Propagating from garlic plant bulbils can revitalize garlic strains, thwart the transmission of soil-borne diseases and is economical as well. Now I’m betting you want to know how to grow garlic from bulbils, but first you need to harvest them.
Harvesting Garlic Plant Bulbils
Harvest the bulbils when mature or when the cluster has expanded and split open the sheath surrounding it. You may cut this from the plant, or hang and dry the entire plant. Drying takes a significant amount of time, so be sure to hang the scape or plant in a dry area lest they mildew. When the bulbils are easily removed by lightly rubbing, you are ready to separate them from the clusters, remove the chaff and dry further in a shallow pan in an aerated area with no direct sun. They can then be stored at room temp or cooler for six to seven months in an unsealed container. Do not refrigerate.
How to Grow Garlic from Bulbils
Garlic likes rich, well-drained soil amended with a good dose of compost and a soil pH of 6 to 8. Rocky or heavy clay soil will produce misshapen bulbs. Sow bulbils in a raised bed ½ to 1 inch deep, depending upon their size, and about 6 inches apart. The depth difference when planting garlic bulbils accounts for their size; tiny bulbils should be sown at a shallower depth. Space the rows 6 inches apart. Cover the bulbils with dirt and water in well. Keep the area weed free. The tiny bulbils take about three years to produce a good sized cloven bulb while the larger bulbils will produce small cloven bulbs in the first year. In the second year, harvest the bulbils and cure like garlic and then replant the “round” that fall. By the third year, the growing garlic from bulbils should be of that of a normal sized bulb.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing your own food is an incredibly rewarding experience, but it can also be frustrating since plant diseases and pests seem to be everywhere. This fall, why not try planting a few garlic cloves for next spring? If you’re trying your hand at growing garlic, keep an eye out for these common garlic problems.
Garlic Problems in the Garden
Garlic pests and disease can ruin your harvest, sometimes without your even knowing it until it’s too late. Others wait to emerge until later, causing problems when drying garlic. Either way, it’s a huge headache. The most common problems of garlic are caused by these common types of pathogens:
Fungal
By far, fungal problems are the most common garlic plant problems. You may get an early hint that something’s wrong, like early yellowing of foliage or white or gray, fluffy growth low on the stem. Unfortunately, there’s very little that can be done about fungal diseases in garlic. The best strategy is to practice a four year crop rotation. If you can’t do this, some fungal pathogens, like Botrytis, can be discouraged by wide spacing between plants. Drying garlic quickly will often prevent storage spoilage. When you must use the same garden space, minimize sources of fungal spores like dead leaves and spent plants by immediately removing and burning or bagging.
Nematodes
These tiny roundworms live in the soil and feed on roots and bulbs – they can destroy an entire crop in no time. If your plants are lacking in vigor or the leaves look bloated, nematodes may be the cause. Fungus and bacteria can further complicate diagnosis by moving into the nematodes’ feeding sites. Nematode control in the home garden isn’t easy, which is why most gardeners simply move to another garden spot for several years to starve the pests out. You’ll have to take care to ensure that no members of the onion or nightshade family pop up unexpectedly to give the nematodes something new to feed upon during that time.
Mites
Bulb mites sometimes bother garlic and onions, feeding on stem plates and roots. Infected plants will be much smaller than non-infected plants and may easily pull out of the soil because of their damaged root system. You may be able to see tiny cream colored mites with purple-brown legs clustered under garlic scales or at the base of roots.
Like with nematodes, the feeding of these mites allows other pathogens to invade the garlic bulb. You’ll also need to practice crop rotation to destroy these mites. They’re more flexible in their feeding than nematodes, so leaving your garden fallow or planting it out with a green, non-bulbing manure is recommended.
Garlic Problems in the Garden
Garlic pests and disease can ruin your harvest, sometimes without your even knowing it until it’s too late. Others wait to emerge until later, causing problems when drying garlic. Either way, it’s a huge headache. The most common problems of garlic are caused by these common types of pathogens:
Fungal
By far, fungal problems are the most common garlic plant problems. You may get an early hint that something’s wrong, like early yellowing of foliage or white or gray, fluffy growth low on the stem. Unfortunately, there’s very little that can be done about fungal diseases in garlic. The best strategy is to practice a four year crop rotation. If you can’t do this, some fungal pathogens, like Botrytis, can be discouraged by wide spacing between plants. Drying garlic quickly will often prevent storage spoilage. When you must use the same garden space, minimize sources of fungal spores like dead leaves and spent plants by immediately removing and burning or bagging.
Nematodes
These tiny roundworms live in the soil and feed on roots and bulbs – they can destroy an entire crop in no time. If your plants are lacking in vigor or the leaves look bloated, nematodes may be the cause. Fungus and bacteria can further complicate diagnosis by moving into the nematodes’ feeding sites. Nematode control in the home garden isn’t easy, which is why most gardeners simply move to another garden spot for several years to starve the pests out. You’ll have to take care to ensure that no members of the onion or nightshade family pop up unexpectedly to give the nematodes something new to feed upon during that time.
Mites
Bulb mites sometimes bother garlic and onions, feeding on stem plates and roots. Infected plants will be much smaller than non-infected plants and may easily pull out of the soil because of their damaged root system. You may be able to see tiny cream colored mites with purple-brown legs clustered under garlic scales or at the base of roots.
Like with nematodes, the feeding of these mites allows other pathogens to invade the garlic bulb. You’ll also need to practice crop rotation to destroy these mites. They’re more flexible in their feeding than nematodes, so leaving your garden fallow or planting it out with a green, non-bulbing manure is recommended.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing garlic (Allium sativum) in the garden is a great thing for your kitchen garden. Fresh garlic is a great seasoning. Let’s look at how to plant and grow garlic.
How to Grow Garlic
Growing garlic needs cool temperatures. Plant hard-neck garlic in the fall. Where there are cold winters, you can plant the garlic four to six weeks before the ground freezes. In milder winter areas, plant your garlic through winter but before February.
How to Plant Garlic
Follow these steps for growing garlic:
1. Unless your soil is naturally loose, add a lot of organic matter like compost or well-aged manure. 2. Separate the garlic bulb into individual cloves (just like you do when cooking but without peeling them). 3. Plant garlic cloves about an inch deep. The fatter end that was at the bottom of the bulb should be at the bottom of the hole. If your winters are colder, you can plant the pieces deeper. 4. Space your cloves 2 to 4 inches apart. Your rows can go 12 to 18 inches apart. If you want bigger garlic bulbs, you can try spacing cloves on a 6 inch by 12 inch grid.
5. While the plants are green and growing, fertilize them, but stop fertilizing after they begin to “bulb-up.” If you feed your garlic too late, your garlic won’t go dormant. 6. If there isn’t much rain in your area, water the garlic plants while they are growing just as you would any other green plant in your garden. 7. Your garlic is ready to harvest once your leaves turn brown. You can start checking when five or six green leaves are left. 8. Garlic needs to cure before you store it anywhere. Make sure to bundle eight to a dozen together by their leaves and hang them in a place to dry. Now that you know how to grow garlic, you can add this tasty herb to your kitchen garden.
How to Grow Garlic
Growing garlic needs cool temperatures. Plant hard-neck garlic in the fall. Where there are cold winters, you can plant the garlic four to six weeks before the ground freezes. In milder winter areas, plant your garlic through winter but before February.
How to Plant Garlic
Follow these steps for growing garlic:
1. Unless your soil is naturally loose, add a lot of organic matter like compost or well-aged manure. 2. Separate the garlic bulb into individual cloves (just like you do when cooking but without peeling them). 3. Plant garlic cloves about an inch deep. The fatter end that was at the bottom of the bulb should be at the bottom of the hole. If your winters are colder, you can plant the pieces deeper. 4. Space your cloves 2 to 4 inches apart. Your rows can go 12 to 18 inches apart. If you want bigger garlic bulbs, you can try spacing cloves on a 6 inch by 12 inch grid.
5. While the plants are green and growing, fertilize them, but stop fertilizing after they begin to “bulb-up.” If you feed your garlic too late, your garlic won’t go dormant. 6. If there isn’t much rain in your area, water the garlic plants while they are growing just as you would any other green plant in your garden. 7. Your garlic is ready to harvest once your leaves turn brown. You can start checking when five or six green leaves are left. 8. Garlic needs to cure before you store it anywhere. Make sure to bundle eight to a dozen together by their leaves and hang them in a place to dry. Now that you know how to grow garlic, you can add this tasty herb to your kitchen garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
The Sceletium tortuosum plant, commonly called kanna, is a succulent blooming ground cover used for mass coverage in areas where other plants often fail. Growing kanna plants hold the moisture necessary to live through the driest of summers. However, an Internet search indicates the plant is not used primarily as an ornamental.
Information about Kanna Plants
According to some info, kanna is used medicinally in its native Cape Provinces of South Africa as a mood elevator and anti-depressant. South Africans chew the plant, which is also said to aid in weight loss and to quell the addictions of smoking and alcoholism. Some have called it the “happy plant.” This plant is also used in teas and tinctures and is sometimes even smoked along with other herbs. Unfortunately, kanna plant is not often grown in cultivation and information about kanna plants says it is dying out in the wild. One source encourages growers to attempt growing kanna plants so they can be saved from extinction. Kanna plant care is exacting when plants are young, though becomes minimal as the plants mature. Information about kanna plants indicates it is a low growing shrub related to the ice plant. Attractive flowers vary in color from white to yellow and occasionally pale orange or pink. Blooms of the Sceletium tortuosum plant are spiky and appear similar to blooms of the spider mum.
Growing Kanna Plants
Seeds for this plant are readily available online. If you are able to acquire already sprouted seedlings, the growth process will move along more quickly. Seeds may take several weeks to a few months to germinate. Be patient. Plant seeds into a sandy cactus type mix. Press seeds into moistened sand, cover and place in a warm, brightly lit spot. Keep the soil moist.
How to Care for Kanna Plant Seedlings
Once seeds have sprouted and have two sets of true leaves, scoop up the clump, along with a good amount of surrounding soil, and plant out into a small container. New growth of the young Sceletium tortuosum plant often attracts aphids. Go ahead and treat for aphids before the pests become a problem. A homemade, soapy spray is an effective means of kanna plant care pest control. Seedlings need less water and soil should be allowed to dry out slightly between waterings. Though this plant is not a cactus, when learning how to care for kanna plant, you’ll find that it benefits from similar care. Seedlings benefit from bright light, but avoid direct sun until the plants are moved outside. The kanna plant can be planted into a bigger container or into similar soil outdoors when all danger of frost is past. When growing kanna in areas with winter freezes, lift rhizomes and store for the winter. Container grown plants can be moved into a greenhouse or garage where temperatures remain above freezing.
Information about Kanna Plants
According to some info, kanna is used medicinally in its native Cape Provinces of South Africa as a mood elevator and anti-depressant. South Africans chew the plant, which is also said to aid in weight loss and to quell the addictions of smoking and alcoholism. Some have called it the “happy plant.” This plant is also used in teas and tinctures and is sometimes even smoked along with other herbs. Unfortunately, kanna plant is not often grown in cultivation and information about kanna plants says it is dying out in the wild. One source encourages growers to attempt growing kanna plants so they can be saved from extinction. Kanna plant care is exacting when plants are young, though becomes minimal as the plants mature. Information about kanna plants indicates it is a low growing shrub related to the ice plant. Attractive flowers vary in color from white to yellow and occasionally pale orange or pink. Blooms of the Sceletium tortuosum plant are spiky and appear similar to blooms of the spider mum.
Growing Kanna Plants
Seeds for this plant are readily available online. If you are able to acquire already sprouted seedlings, the growth process will move along more quickly. Seeds may take several weeks to a few months to germinate. Be patient. Plant seeds into a sandy cactus type mix. Press seeds into moistened sand, cover and place in a warm, brightly lit spot. Keep the soil moist.
How to Care for Kanna Plant Seedlings
Once seeds have sprouted and have two sets of true leaves, scoop up the clump, along with a good amount of surrounding soil, and plant out into a small container. New growth of the young Sceletium tortuosum plant often attracts aphids. Go ahead and treat for aphids before the pests become a problem. A homemade, soapy spray is an effective means of kanna plant care pest control. Seedlings need less water and soil should be allowed to dry out slightly between waterings. Though this plant is not a cactus, when learning how to care for kanna plant, you’ll find that it benefits from similar care. Seedlings benefit from bright light, but avoid direct sun until the plants are moved outside. The kanna plant can be planted into a bigger container or into similar soil outdoors when all danger of frost is past. When growing kanna in areas with winter freezes, lift rhizomes and store for the winter. Container grown plants can be moved into a greenhouse or garage where temperatures remain above freezing.
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