文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Did you know wild cattails were edible? Yes, those distinctive plants growing alongside the water’s edge can easily be harvested, providing a source of vitamins and starch to your diet all year round. This common grass is very easily identified in nature and its benefits as a food and more are numerous to everyone from a day hiker to a wilderness survivor. Read on to learn more about what cattails are used for.
How to Harvest Cattails
Virtually all parts of the cattail plant are edible at some point of the year. Cattail harvesting can be as simple as picking one right off the plant in summer. The lower part of the stem is white and, when eaten raw, tastes like cucumber. If you cook it, it tastes like corn. The pollen can be removed from the stalk simply by shaking into a paper bag and using it as a thickener to soups and stews. In late summer, the green flower heads can be eaten like corn on the cob. In autumn, the roots can be harvested by soaking in water until a gel forms. You can use the gel in bread making and soups.
What are Cattails Used for?
In addition to harvesting cattails for food, they have many other uses. Basically, cattail harvesting can provide water, food, shelter and fuel for fire, almost everything needed to survive in the wild. The brown, tight heads can be used as a torch when dipped in oil or fat. The gel found within the leaves can be used medicinally as a topical anesthetic. The heads provide puffy wool-like material that can be used for insulation of clothing, mattresses and padding when sleeping out in the woods.
The leaves, when cut, dried and resoaked, can be used for mats, baskets, hats or ponchos. Next time you pass some of those wild cattails blowing in the wind, remember all of the things cattails are used for and how easy harvesting wild cattails can be.
How to Harvest Cattails
Virtually all parts of the cattail plant are edible at some point of the year. Cattail harvesting can be as simple as picking one right off the plant in summer. The lower part of the stem is white and, when eaten raw, tastes like cucumber. If you cook it, it tastes like corn. The pollen can be removed from the stalk simply by shaking into a paper bag and using it as a thickener to soups and stews. In late summer, the green flower heads can be eaten like corn on the cob. In autumn, the roots can be harvested by soaking in water until a gel forms. You can use the gel in bread making and soups.
What are Cattails Used for?
In addition to harvesting cattails for food, they have many other uses. Basically, cattail harvesting can provide water, food, shelter and fuel for fire, almost everything needed to survive in the wild. The brown, tight heads can be used as a torch when dipped in oil or fat. The gel found within the leaves can be used medicinally as a topical anesthetic. The heads provide puffy wool-like material that can be used for insulation of clothing, mattresses and padding when sleeping out in the woods.
The leaves, when cut, dried and resoaked, can be used for mats, baskets, hats or ponchos. Next time you pass some of those wild cattails blowing in the wind, remember all of the things cattails are used for and how easy harvesting wild cattails can be.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Most apple tree planting guides will tell you that apple trees can take a long time to fruit. This will depend, of course, on the variety of tree you purchase. Some will produce fruit earlier than others.
Soil for Growing an Apple Tree
One thing to remember about growing an apple tree is that the pH of the soil has to be just what the tree needs. You should have a soil test done if you are thinking about how to grow an apple orchard or your trees might not survive. Having a soil test done by the extension office is great because they provide the kit, do the test and then can give you a report of exactly what your soil needs in order to have the proper pH. Adding whatever is needed should be done to the depth of 12 to 18 inches so that the roots get the proper pH, or they can burn.
How Do You Plant Apple Trees?
Most apple tree planting guides will tell you that higher ground is better for growing an apple tree. This is because low lying frost can kill the blossoms on the tree in the spring. Growing an apple tree on higher ground protects the blossoms from an early death, thus ensuring a good crop of apples. Apple tree growing info also advises not to plant the trees near the woods or streams. Both of these environments can ruin the tree. Growing an apple tree requires full sunshine. You will know when to grow apple trees when you can actually dig the hole necessary to plant the tree. Obviously, springtime is best, but make sure the ground is good and thawed.
When planting apple trees, pay attention to how the root ball goes into the ground. Growing an apple tree will require that you dig your hole double the diameter of the root ball and at least two feet deep. When you cover the roots with soil, you tamp it down as you go so you can ensure that the roots are completely touching the dirt. This makes certain your tree is going to get all the nutrients necessary from the soil because the air pockets were removed. When caring for an apple tree, you can add fertilizer, but don’t fertilize at planting time because you can burn the roots. Wait until the plant has established itself and then feed it according to the instructions on the fertilizer package. Most of the time, if your soil has the proper pH, you won’t need to fertilize your apple trees.
Soil for Growing an Apple Tree
One thing to remember about growing an apple tree is that the pH of the soil has to be just what the tree needs. You should have a soil test done if you are thinking about how to grow an apple orchard or your trees might not survive. Having a soil test done by the extension office is great because they provide the kit, do the test and then can give you a report of exactly what your soil needs in order to have the proper pH. Adding whatever is needed should be done to the depth of 12 to 18 inches so that the roots get the proper pH, or they can burn.
How Do You Plant Apple Trees?
Most apple tree planting guides will tell you that higher ground is better for growing an apple tree. This is because low lying frost can kill the blossoms on the tree in the spring. Growing an apple tree on higher ground protects the blossoms from an early death, thus ensuring a good crop of apples. Apple tree growing info also advises not to plant the trees near the woods or streams. Both of these environments can ruin the tree. Growing an apple tree requires full sunshine. You will know when to grow apple trees when you can actually dig the hole necessary to plant the tree. Obviously, springtime is best, but make sure the ground is good and thawed.
When planting apple trees, pay attention to how the root ball goes into the ground. Growing an apple tree will require that you dig your hole double the diameter of the root ball and at least two feet deep. When you cover the roots with soil, you tamp it down as you go so you can ensure that the roots are completely touching the dirt. This makes certain your tree is going to get all the nutrients necessary from the soil because the air pockets were removed. When caring for an apple tree, you can add fertilizer, but don’t fertilize at planting time because you can burn the roots. Wait until the plant has established itself and then feed it according to the instructions on the fertilizer package. Most of the time, if your soil has the proper pH, you won’t need to fertilize your apple trees.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Description
This orchid is a common sight on the roadsides in the Pirin Mountains National Park in Bulgaria. It is a tall orchid - sometimes growing up to 90 cm in height - and fairly robust with a flower-spike that is rather lax in appearance. At first conical, the flower spike becomes much more cylindrical as the flowers open fully.
Distribution
Dactylorhiza saccifera is widespread but not always common; it occurs in the Balkans and in Bulgaria, Algeria, Turkey, Greece and generally throughout the central and eastern Mediterranean region.
Habitat
Dactylorhiza saccifera blooms either in full sun or in partially shaded grassy places, and it can be found in the edges of woodland, in woodland clearings and, very commonly, on roadside verges.
Flowering times
This orchid flowers from May until well into July.
This orchid is a common sight on the roadsides in the Pirin Mountains National Park in Bulgaria. It is a tall orchid - sometimes growing up to 90 cm in height - and fairly robust with a flower-spike that is rather lax in appearance. At first conical, the flower spike becomes much more cylindrical as the flowers open fully.
Distribution
Dactylorhiza saccifera is widespread but not always common; it occurs in the Balkans and in Bulgaria, Algeria, Turkey, Greece and generally throughout the central and eastern Mediterranean region.
Habitat
Dactylorhiza saccifera blooms either in full sun or in partially shaded grassy places, and it can be found in the edges of woodland, in woodland clearings and, very commonly, on roadside verges.
Flowering times
This orchid flowers from May until well into July.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Herb growing problems tend to be relatively few as long as you pay attention to a few golden rules. Most herbs are sun loving and require at least six hours each day. Herbs also like well drained soil with a pH of 6 to 7 and amended with some good organic compost. Regular pruning and by virtue of that, removal of any weak or infested growth are the final components to protecting herbs from pests and diseases. That said, there are some common pests and diseases of herbs that may afflict the herb garden.
Protecting Herbs from Pests
The essential fragrant oils of most herbs are a natural repellent to many insects. Despite this, at some time pests like slugs encroach the herb garden and ravage your plants. The good news is that most of these pests are really just that; they do not usually cause severe damage and are mostly a nuisance.
Aphids – Aphids love the tender new leaves of herbs and, in large numbers, may cause curling of the foliage. The resulting honeydew secretion may promote sooty mold as well as attract ants. Aphids are most commonly found among crowded and rapidly growing herbs. Horticultural soaps and neem oil may aid in exterminating these pests. Spider mites – Spider mites prefer hot, dry conditions and are often spotted on the underside of the herb leaves. Protecting the herb garden from these pests is as simple as a strong stream of water aimed at the foliage and regular irrigation. Whiteflies – Whiteflies will also appear on the underside of the leaves.
Leafhoppers – Leafhoppers rarely do much damage but do feed on basil, oregano, and parsley. Leaf miners – Leaf miners will also attack succulent basil, leaving tunneling trails between the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Parsley worms – Black swallowtail caterpillars morph into spectacular butterflies. Hence, many gardeners refrain from eliminating them and simply plant plenty of the parsley, dill and fennel these guy love to munch on. Flea beetles – Yet another pest, the flea beetle is again just that, chewing pinprick holes in the leaves of herbs but sustaining no serious damage. Weevils – Weevils, such as the carrot weevil, will feed on parsley roots but inflict no lasting damage. Spittle bugs – And finally, spittle bugs while leaving a rather unsightly spit-like froth on foliage, can easily be washed off with water and cause little damage.
Diseases of Herbs
Very few herbs (mints and lemon grass) thrive in wet soil. Waterlogged soils encourage fungal diseases such as fusarium root rot. Symptoms appear as brown streaks on the herb stems with an end result often of the general collapse of the plant. Rust plagues many members of the mint family and presents itself as rusty orange lesions on the underside of the leaves. Defenses against diseases of herbs are proper growing conditions, sanitation, removal of weak or otherwise infested foliage and regular pruning. Raised beds will foster good drainage and watering in the morning to give the herb plenty of time to dry out will also retard the spread of fungal spores which could result in disease.
Troubleshooting the Herb Garden
The best defense, as they say, is a good offense, so when troubleshooting the herb garden, remember to follow the golden rules as outlined below:
Choose healthy herbs to plant. Plant the healthy herb in the correct environment, either moist and humid or sunny and dry. Do your research and find out the best spot for each type of herb. Do not overcrowd your herb plants. Allow for growth, spread and general aeration between plants. Practice proper irrigation and fertilization. Irrigate and fertilize (preferably with an organic food like compost tea) on a schedule and allow to dry between watering. Also, weed between plants to discourage pests and encourage healthy foliage and root systems. Prune, prune, prune. Prune your herb, or in other words, harvest the herb plant frequently. This will not only automatically prod you to remove any sick foliage and observe any marauding insects for removal, but promote a lusher, bushier specimen. Harvesting will also remove blossoms, which will keep the plant producing since flowering is a signal to the plant that it’s about time to die back for the season. Follow these rules and you will be less likely to resort to chemical controls for your herb garden which in turn would mean you are ingesting chemicals.
Protecting Herbs from Pests
The essential fragrant oils of most herbs are a natural repellent to many insects. Despite this, at some time pests like slugs encroach the herb garden and ravage your plants. The good news is that most of these pests are really just that; they do not usually cause severe damage and are mostly a nuisance.
Aphids – Aphids love the tender new leaves of herbs and, in large numbers, may cause curling of the foliage. The resulting honeydew secretion may promote sooty mold as well as attract ants. Aphids are most commonly found among crowded and rapidly growing herbs. Horticultural soaps and neem oil may aid in exterminating these pests. Spider mites – Spider mites prefer hot, dry conditions and are often spotted on the underside of the herb leaves. Protecting the herb garden from these pests is as simple as a strong stream of water aimed at the foliage and regular irrigation. Whiteflies – Whiteflies will also appear on the underside of the leaves.
Leafhoppers – Leafhoppers rarely do much damage but do feed on basil, oregano, and parsley. Leaf miners – Leaf miners will also attack succulent basil, leaving tunneling trails between the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Parsley worms – Black swallowtail caterpillars morph into spectacular butterflies. Hence, many gardeners refrain from eliminating them and simply plant plenty of the parsley, dill and fennel these guy love to munch on. Flea beetles – Yet another pest, the flea beetle is again just that, chewing pinprick holes in the leaves of herbs but sustaining no serious damage. Weevils – Weevils, such as the carrot weevil, will feed on parsley roots but inflict no lasting damage. Spittle bugs – And finally, spittle bugs while leaving a rather unsightly spit-like froth on foliage, can easily be washed off with water and cause little damage.
Diseases of Herbs
Very few herbs (mints and lemon grass) thrive in wet soil. Waterlogged soils encourage fungal diseases such as fusarium root rot. Symptoms appear as brown streaks on the herb stems with an end result often of the general collapse of the plant. Rust plagues many members of the mint family and presents itself as rusty orange lesions on the underside of the leaves. Defenses against diseases of herbs are proper growing conditions, sanitation, removal of weak or otherwise infested foliage and regular pruning. Raised beds will foster good drainage and watering in the morning to give the herb plenty of time to dry out will also retard the spread of fungal spores which could result in disease.
Troubleshooting the Herb Garden
The best defense, as they say, is a good offense, so when troubleshooting the herb garden, remember to follow the golden rules as outlined below:
Choose healthy herbs to plant. Plant the healthy herb in the correct environment, either moist and humid or sunny and dry. Do your research and find out the best spot for each type of herb. Do not overcrowd your herb plants. Allow for growth, spread and general aeration between plants. Practice proper irrigation and fertilization. Irrigate and fertilize (preferably with an organic food like compost tea) on a schedule and allow to dry between watering. Also, weed between plants to discourage pests and encourage healthy foliage and root systems. Prune, prune, prune. Prune your herb, or in other words, harvest the herb plant frequently. This will not only automatically prod you to remove any sick foliage and observe any marauding insects for removal, but promote a lusher, bushier specimen. Harvesting will also remove blossoms, which will keep the plant producing since flowering is a signal to the plant that it’s about time to die back for the season. Follow these rules and you will be less likely to resort to chemical controls for your herb garden which in turn would mean you are ingesting chemicals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
A simple, quick and fun project that will add not only a decorative touch but doubles as a useful culinary staple is a Mason jar herb garden. Most herbs are extremely easy to grow and growing them in a jar is a straightforward endeavor as long as you provide plenty of light and proper drainage. A couple of herb garden Mason jars tucked into a bookshelf or resting in a sunny windowsill add a splash of outdoor color to the kitchen. Plus, the added benefit is you can easily snip off a sprig from your jar of herbs for your latest culinary masterpiece. Suitable plants for herb jars include:
Basil
Parsley
Cilantro
Chives
Thyme
Rosemary
How to Grow Herbs in a Mason Jar
The first step to creating a Mason jar herb garden is obtaining the jars. Used for canning foods since 1858, Mason jars are still available today. However, searching for them at flea markets, thrift stores or Grandma’s basement or attic is a fun, inexpensive way of getting your jars and you can pat yourself on the back for recycling and repurposing! You may even use recycled pasta or pickle jars with the labels soaked and the jars thoroughly washed. Starting your jar of herbs from seeds in the Mason jar is not a recommended course of action. Using transplants is a surer recipe for success when planting herbs in canning jars, such as the plants for herb jars listed above. Herbs have roots that are a little larger than their top growth so be sure to use a jar that allows for the root growth. It is helpful to select drought friendly herbs in case of missed watering, and trailing herbs like some thyme look lovely in the glass jar.
Adequate drainage is essential for your herbs in canning jars, so the next step is to drill a few holes in the Mason jar. This step can be dangerous, so be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves. Use a diamond cutting drill bit and cover the jar with cutting oil. Use even pressure and drill slowly to prevent breakage. Make several 1/8 to ¼ inch holes in the Mason jar. Fill the bottom of the jar with broken pottery shards, colored stones or the like to improve drainage and add visual interest to your Mason jar herb garden. Conversely, if you do not have a drill or are timid about using it on glass, you may simply fill the bottom with an inch or so of stones, marbles, pottery bit, etc. to keep the roots from becoming too wet and rotting. Fill the jar with a bagged potting mix or your own mix of equal part sphagnum peat, compost and sand to about 1 inch below the jar’s edge. Fertilizer can be added into the soil medium at this point or use a soluble fertilizer after planting.
Plant the transplanted herbs so the root ball is level or slightly below the surface of the potting media. Moisten the potting media first with a bit of warm water, then add the mix, covering the tallest transplant root ball so it sits with its top surface ¾ inch below the rim of the jar. Water the Mason jar herb garden thoroughly. Allow any excess water to drain in the sink or in a shallow tray and then place the herbs in canning jars in a sunny area where they get at least six hours of sun per day. Keep the jar of herbs moist but not sodden. As the plants outgrow the jars, replace them with new transplants and move the bigger herbs into larger pots.
Basil
Parsley
Cilantro
Chives
Thyme
Rosemary
How to Grow Herbs in a Mason Jar
The first step to creating a Mason jar herb garden is obtaining the jars. Used for canning foods since 1858, Mason jars are still available today. However, searching for them at flea markets, thrift stores or Grandma’s basement or attic is a fun, inexpensive way of getting your jars and you can pat yourself on the back for recycling and repurposing! You may even use recycled pasta or pickle jars with the labels soaked and the jars thoroughly washed. Starting your jar of herbs from seeds in the Mason jar is not a recommended course of action. Using transplants is a surer recipe for success when planting herbs in canning jars, such as the plants for herb jars listed above. Herbs have roots that are a little larger than their top growth so be sure to use a jar that allows for the root growth. It is helpful to select drought friendly herbs in case of missed watering, and trailing herbs like some thyme look lovely in the glass jar.
Adequate drainage is essential for your herbs in canning jars, so the next step is to drill a few holes in the Mason jar. This step can be dangerous, so be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves. Use a diamond cutting drill bit and cover the jar with cutting oil. Use even pressure and drill slowly to prevent breakage. Make several 1/8 to ¼ inch holes in the Mason jar. Fill the bottom of the jar with broken pottery shards, colored stones or the like to improve drainage and add visual interest to your Mason jar herb garden. Conversely, if you do not have a drill or are timid about using it on glass, you may simply fill the bottom with an inch or so of stones, marbles, pottery bit, etc. to keep the roots from becoming too wet and rotting. Fill the jar with a bagged potting mix or your own mix of equal part sphagnum peat, compost and sand to about 1 inch below the jar’s edge. Fertilizer can be added into the soil medium at this point or use a soluble fertilizer after planting.
Plant the transplanted herbs so the root ball is level or slightly below the surface of the potting media. Moisten the potting media first with a bit of warm water, then add the mix, covering the tallest transplant root ball so it sits with its top surface ¾ inch below the rim of the jar. Water the Mason jar herb garden thoroughly. Allow any excess water to drain in the sink or in a shallow tray and then place the herbs in canning jars in a sunny area where they get at least six hours of sun per day. Keep the jar of herbs moist but not sodden. As the plants outgrow the jars, replace them with new transplants and move the bigger herbs into larger pots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Is there anything more satisfying than stepping out into your garden after a day of hard work and plucking delicious herbs for your dinner menu? The herbs are fresh, pungent and delicious. You grew them yourself too! Growing herbs for cocktail drinks is equally enjoyable. It is especially satisfying when you have friends and family over for happy hour.
Garden Inspired Cocktails
There are a number of good herbs for mixed drinks. Here are some of the most common:
Spearmint (Mentha spicata) is the mint of choice for mint julips. Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is terrific in vodka or gin gimlets. Shiso (Perilla frutescens) can replace mint and add a snazzy zip to mojitos. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) will enlighten your average gin and tonic. Lemon Verbena (Aloysia triphylla) is yummy in sangria. English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) pairs well with sparkling wine. If you are a Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) lover, experiment with a placing dried cilantro and sea salt on the rim of your Bloody Mary glass.
Making Cocktails with Fresh Herbs
Making cocktails with fresh herbs is easy but requires a few extra steps. One of the most basic techniques is to muddle the herbs prior to putting them in the shaker. Muddling is where you crush the herb leaves in a mortar and pestle to release flavor. The herbs are then added to the shaker with all the other ingredients. You can make simple herbal syrup by combining the fresh or dried herbs with boiled and cooled sugar water. Infused simple syrup typically keeps a few weeks in the fridge and is ready to go when making cocktails with fresh herbs. Some herbs can be added whole to a drink to add visual flourish. Consider adding a sprig of lavender or rosemary to sparkling wine or gin and tonic. Float a shiso leaf in your mojito.
Tips on Growing Herbs for Cocktail Drinks
Growing an herbal cocktail garden depends on where you live. If you live in Coastal California or other warmer climates, you can depend on your rosemary, lemon verbena, lavender and mint to be available almost year round. All of these plants can be installed in your ornamental planting beds too. Note that spearmint should be placed in a pot, as it can be invasive. Sweet basil, shiso and cilantro are annuals. Put them in your raised beds or in pots each summer and you will be rewarded with some delightful garden cocktail ingredients. If you live in a cold winter area, you might consider putting all your herbs in pots near the kitchen door so you can access them easily and possibly even bring them indoors for winter. Make sure your herbs get full sun and sufficient water. Lavender and rosemary are water-wise plants, but all the other herbs need regular water and benefit from organic fertilizers once a month.
Garden Inspired Cocktails
There are a number of good herbs for mixed drinks. Here are some of the most common:
Spearmint (Mentha spicata) is the mint of choice for mint julips. Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilicum) is terrific in vodka or gin gimlets. Shiso (Perilla frutescens) can replace mint and add a snazzy zip to mojitos. Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) will enlighten your average gin and tonic. Lemon Verbena (Aloysia triphylla) is yummy in sangria. English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) pairs well with sparkling wine. If you are a Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum) lover, experiment with a placing dried cilantro and sea salt on the rim of your Bloody Mary glass.
Making Cocktails with Fresh Herbs
Making cocktails with fresh herbs is easy but requires a few extra steps. One of the most basic techniques is to muddle the herbs prior to putting them in the shaker. Muddling is where you crush the herb leaves in a mortar and pestle to release flavor. The herbs are then added to the shaker with all the other ingredients. You can make simple herbal syrup by combining the fresh or dried herbs with boiled and cooled sugar water. Infused simple syrup typically keeps a few weeks in the fridge and is ready to go when making cocktails with fresh herbs. Some herbs can be added whole to a drink to add visual flourish. Consider adding a sprig of lavender or rosemary to sparkling wine or gin and tonic. Float a shiso leaf in your mojito.
Tips on Growing Herbs for Cocktail Drinks
Growing an herbal cocktail garden depends on where you live. If you live in Coastal California or other warmer climates, you can depend on your rosemary, lemon verbena, lavender and mint to be available almost year round. All of these plants can be installed in your ornamental planting beds too. Note that spearmint should be placed in a pot, as it can be invasive. Sweet basil, shiso and cilantro are annuals. Put them in your raised beds or in pots each summer and you will be rewarded with some delightful garden cocktail ingredients. If you live in a cold winter area, you might consider putting all your herbs in pots near the kitchen door so you can access them easily and possibly even bring them indoors for winter. Make sure your herbs get full sun and sufficient water. Lavender and rosemary are water-wise plants, but all the other herbs need regular water and benefit from organic fertilizers once a month.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Growing parsley indoors on a sunny windowsill is ornamental as well as practical. Curly types have lacy, frilly foliage that looks great in any setting and flat-leaf varieties are prized for their flavor. Learning how to grow parsley indoors is not at all complicated and neither is indoor parsley care.
Parsley Container Gardening
Parsley herbs (Petroselinum crispum) grow best in a sunny, preferably south-facing window where they will receive six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. If your window doesn’t provide that much light, you’ll have to supplement it with fluorescent lighting. Turn the pot every three or four days so that the plant doesn’t lean into the sun.
Parsley container gardening is no different than growing any other potted herbs. Choose a container that fits snuggly on the window sill. It should have several drainage holes and a saucer underneath to catch water as it drains through. Fill the pot with a good quality potting soil and add a handful of clean sand to improve the drainage. Humidity isn’t usually a problem when you grow parsley in the kitchen where steam from cooking and the frequent use of water helps keep the air moist. In other locations, you may need to mist the plants from time to time. If the leaves look dry and brittle, set the plant on top of a tray of pebbles and add water to the tray, leaving the tops of the pebbles exposed. As the water evaporates, it increases the humidity of the air around the plant.
How to Grow Parsley Indoors
When you’re ready for growing parsley indoors, it’s best to start parsley from seeds sown directly in the container because parsley has a long tap root that doesn’t transplant well. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface of the soil and cover them with an additional 1/4 inch of soil. Water the pot regularly to keep the soil moist to the touch but not soggy, and expect seedlings to emerge in three weeks or so. If you get too many seedlings, you’ll have to thin them out. Clip out the excess with scissors or pinch them out between your fingernail and thumb. Pulling them out may damage the tap roots of the surrounding plants.
Indoor Parsley Care
Indoor parsley care is easy. Keep the soil lightly moist, and empty the saucer under the pot after every watering so that the roots don’t sit in water. Feed the plants every two weeks with fish emulsion or half-strength liquid fertilizer. You can grow other herbs in the container with parsley, if desired. Herbs that combine well in a mixed container with parsley include chives, thyme, basil, oregano and mint. When planting thyme with parsley herbs, stick them around the edges of a container or hanging basket where it can tumble over the edges.
Parsley Container Gardening
Parsley herbs (Petroselinum crispum) grow best in a sunny, preferably south-facing window where they will receive six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. If your window doesn’t provide that much light, you’ll have to supplement it with fluorescent lighting. Turn the pot every three or four days so that the plant doesn’t lean into the sun.
Parsley container gardening is no different than growing any other potted herbs. Choose a container that fits snuggly on the window sill. It should have several drainage holes and a saucer underneath to catch water as it drains through. Fill the pot with a good quality potting soil and add a handful of clean sand to improve the drainage. Humidity isn’t usually a problem when you grow parsley in the kitchen where steam from cooking and the frequent use of water helps keep the air moist. In other locations, you may need to mist the plants from time to time. If the leaves look dry and brittle, set the plant on top of a tray of pebbles and add water to the tray, leaving the tops of the pebbles exposed. As the water evaporates, it increases the humidity of the air around the plant.
How to Grow Parsley Indoors
When you’re ready for growing parsley indoors, it’s best to start parsley from seeds sown directly in the container because parsley has a long tap root that doesn’t transplant well. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface of the soil and cover them with an additional 1/4 inch of soil. Water the pot regularly to keep the soil moist to the touch but not soggy, and expect seedlings to emerge in three weeks or so. If you get too many seedlings, you’ll have to thin them out. Clip out the excess with scissors or pinch them out between your fingernail and thumb. Pulling them out may damage the tap roots of the surrounding plants.
Indoor Parsley Care
Indoor parsley care is easy. Keep the soil lightly moist, and empty the saucer under the pot after every watering so that the roots don’t sit in water. Feed the plants every two weeks with fish emulsion or half-strength liquid fertilizer. You can grow other herbs in the container with parsley, if desired. Herbs that combine well in a mixed container with parsley include chives, thyme, basil, oregano and mint. When planting thyme with parsley herbs, stick them around the edges of a container or hanging basket where it can tumble over the edges.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Italian flat leaf parsley (Petroselinum neapolitanum) may look unassuming but add it to soups and stew, stocks and salads, and you add a fresh flavor and color that makes the dish. Growing Italian parsley in the garden or in a window box will allow the home cook to harness the lively flavor of this plant. Try growing Italian parsley indoors as it does better than curly leaved parsley. You can also learn how to grow Italian parsley outside in the kitchen garden.
What Does Italian Parsley Look Like?
Even the foodie with moderate herbal knowledge may wonder, what does Italian parsley look like? This 6- to 12-inch tall plant has sturdy, slender stems topped with flat, deeply divided leaves. The leaves are soft and pliable and useful whole or chopped. In fact, the entire stem is good cut up and used in chicken salad or other places where celery or some crunchy vegetable would be appropriate. You can even use Italian flat leaf parsley roots in salads or sautés.
Types of Italian Parsley Herbs
There are several cultivars of Italian flat leaf parsley: Gigante Catalogno is a large leaved variety. Italian Dark Green has deep green leaves with a strong flavor and Italian plain leaf, which is the fastest growing type. Giant of Naples is another larger variety. Whichever variety you choose, know the proper conditions for growing Italian parsley and you’ll have a biennial herb that is useful for years.
How to Grow Italian Parsley
Italian parsley herbs require temperate conditions. They don’t perform well in extremely hot areas and are prone to freezing back in cold climates. Choose a sunny site in well-draining soil with plenty of organic amendment. If you’re planting several plants together, allow at least 18 inches between them to prevent mildew from forming on the leaves. Potted plants thrive in a window with indirect light, no drafts and comfortable household temperatures.
Growing Italian Parsley from Seed
Italian parsley is started outdoors after all danger of frost has passed, or inside six to eight weeks before the last expected frost. Use a fine mixture of potting soil, peat moss and sand. Cover with 1/8 fine dusting of soil and keep the seeds misted and lightly moist. Thin seedlings to 10 to 12 inches apart.
Care of Italian Flat Leaf Parsley
Allow the soil to dry out partially between watering. Water deeply approximately once per week and allow excess moisture to drain out. Fertilize plants in the ground in early spring with a balanced fertilizer. Potted plants may be fertilized monthly with a half dilution of liquid plant food.
Trim what you need, taking the stems back to the core of the plant. If your plant is skinny and spindly, try moving it to a brighter area. Cut off any blooms as they occur, as this will cause the plant to seed and leaf production to diminish.
What Does Italian Parsley Look Like?
Even the foodie with moderate herbal knowledge may wonder, what does Italian parsley look like? This 6- to 12-inch tall plant has sturdy, slender stems topped with flat, deeply divided leaves. The leaves are soft and pliable and useful whole or chopped. In fact, the entire stem is good cut up and used in chicken salad or other places where celery or some crunchy vegetable would be appropriate. You can even use Italian flat leaf parsley roots in salads or sautés.
Types of Italian Parsley Herbs
There are several cultivars of Italian flat leaf parsley: Gigante Catalogno is a large leaved variety. Italian Dark Green has deep green leaves with a strong flavor and Italian plain leaf, which is the fastest growing type. Giant of Naples is another larger variety. Whichever variety you choose, know the proper conditions for growing Italian parsley and you’ll have a biennial herb that is useful for years.
How to Grow Italian Parsley
Italian parsley herbs require temperate conditions. They don’t perform well in extremely hot areas and are prone to freezing back in cold climates. Choose a sunny site in well-draining soil with plenty of organic amendment. If you’re planting several plants together, allow at least 18 inches between them to prevent mildew from forming on the leaves. Potted plants thrive in a window with indirect light, no drafts and comfortable household temperatures.
Growing Italian Parsley from Seed
Italian parsley is started outdoors after all danger of frost has passed, or inside six to eight weeks before the last expected frost. Use a fine mixture of potting soil, peat moss and sand. Cover with 1/8 fine dusting of soil and keep the seeds misted and lightly moist. Thin seedlings to 10 to 12 inches apart.
Care of Italian Flat Leaf Parsley
Allow the soil to dry out partially between watering. Water deeply approximately once per week and allow excess moisture to drain out. Fertilize plants in the ground in early spring with a balanced fertilizer. Potted plants may be fertilized monthly with a half dilution of liquid plant food.
Trim what you need, taking the stems back to the core of the plant. If your plant is skinny and spindly, try moving it to a brighter area. Cut off any blooms as they occur, as this will cause the plant to seed and leaf production to diminish.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum) is a hardy herb grown for its flavor, which is added to many dishes, as well as its use as a decorative garnish. Growing parsley also makes an attractive edging plant. Its curly, fern-like foliage is high in vitamins and the plant is rarely affected by disease, though pests such as aphids, can occasionally present a problem. Parsley is considered a biennial but is treated as an annual in cold climates. This herb can be grown in containers or out in the garden and is generally established through seeds. Read on to learn more about how to grow parsley.
When to Plant Parsley Seeds
Parsley seeds can be started indoors or out. While they can be sown directly in the garden as soon as the soil is manageable in spring, the best time when to plant parsley seeds is to sow them indoors about six weeks beforehand. This is typically due to its slow germination rate, which can take up to three weeks or more. As parsley seeds are quite small, there’s no need for covering them with soil. When planting parsley, simply sprinkle seeds on top of the soil and mist well with water. Once seeds have sprouted, thin them down to only one or two plants per pot. Spring is the ideal time for planting parsley seedlings in the garden.
How to Grow Parsley
Although this herb tolerates poor soil and drainage, it’s always preferable to situate plants in organic-rich, well-drained soil when growing parsley. Planting parsley in areas with full sun to partial shade is also recommended. This easy-care herb requires little maintenance, other than occasional watering or weeding, once established. These tasks, however, can be reduced by applying mulch around the plants.
Harvesting Parsley
Parsley can be harvested throughout the year, especially when growing parsley in a cold frame or indoors during winter. You can begin harvesting parsley once the leaves start to curl. For optimal flavor, pick parsley early in the day (morning hours) when the plant’s oil is strongest. Parsley is best used while fresh; however, it can be frozen until ready for use. It’s also better to freeze parsley rather than drying, as this may cause the herb to lose some of its flavor. Now that you know more about how to grow parsley, you can add it to your garden. Growing parsley not only adds a delicious herb to your garden, but a lovely one as well.
When to Plant Parsley Seeds
Parsley seeds can be started indoors or out. While they can be sown directly in the garden as soon as the soil is manageable in spring, the best time when to plant parsley seeds is to sow them indoors about six weeks beforehand. This is typically due to its slow germination rate, which can take up to three weeks or more. As parsley seeds are quite small, there’s no need for covering them with soil. When planting parsley, simply sprinkle seeds on top of the soil and mist well with water. Once seeds have sprouted, thin them down to only one or two plants per pot. Spring is the ideal time for planting parsley seedlings in the garden.
How to Grow Parsley
Although this herb tolerates poor soil and drainage, it’s always preferable to situate plants in organic-rich, well-drained soil when growing parsley. Planting parsley in areas with full sun to partial shade is also recommended. This easy-care herb requires little maintenance, other than occasional watering or weeding, once established. These tasks, however, can be reduced by applying mulch around the plants.
Harvesting Parsley
Parsley can be harvested throughout the year, especially when growing parsley in a cold frame or indoors during winter. You can begin harvesting parsley once the leaves start to curl. For optimal flavor, pick parsley early in the day (morning hours) when the plant’s oil is strongest. Parsley is best used while fresh; however, it can be frozen until ready for use. It’s also better to freeze parsley rather than drying, as this may cause the herb to lose some of its flavor. Now that you know more about how to grow parsley, you can add it to your garden. Growing parsley not only adds a delicious herb to your garden, but a lovely one as well.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Leaves of chocolate mint plants add versatility to drinks, desserts and garnishes for a variety of dishes you prepare in the kitchen. Growing chocolate mint, both indoors and outside, is an easy way to always have a fresh supply of the chocolate herb plant. Chocolate mint plants (Mentha x piperita ‘Chocolate’) are attractive, fragrant and easy to grow. As with most square-stemmed members of the mint family, growing chocolate mint can take over the area in which it is planted in the ground, readily and quickly. When learning how to care for chocolate mint, know that it must be contained in some way to avoid the rapid spread of the chocolate herb plant. Horror stories of the escape of uncontained chocolate mint are shared by gardeners who planted it directly in the ground, only for it to take over the bed or spread to a neighbor’s property where it must then be removed.
How to Grow and Harvest Chocolate Mint
Growing chocolate mint in containers is easy. Regular pinching and division keeps chocolate mint healthy, full and under control. Mature brownish red stems and attractive serrated leaves become full after pinching out the tips. Use the leaves in your dishes and drinks. Longer stems of the chocolate herb plant can be clipped for rooting more plants. Learning how to grow and harvest chocolate mint provides a regular supply of the fragrant leaves, which may be used fresh or dried for later use. Growing chocolate mint outside in pots that can be placed in full to partial sun is easy. Once you have a cutting rooted, you likely won’t need to get another plant. Yearly division of the contents of the pot results in an abundance of plants for you or to share with friends and family so that everyone has a container of the useful chocolate herb plant.
If you want to grow the chocolate herb plant in a garden with other herbs, plant the entire container and sink it into the ground. Don’t remove the bottom of the pot. Roots of the growing chocolate mint plant may escape through drainage holes, but you can remove the container once in awhile and clip off any roots that grow from drainage holes. You can also include it in a chocolate themed garden with other chocolate plants. Learning how to care for chocolate mint is simple too. Water and fertilize occasionally and grow in full sun for maximum flavor. Harvest throughout the growing season, unless you want the plant to display its attractive pink flowers in late spring to midsummer. If so, clip after flowering. Root new cuttings in late summer to bring inside for the winter.
How to Grow and Harvest Chocolate Mint
Growing chocolate mint in containers is easy. Regular pinching and division keeps chocolate mint healthy, full and under control. Mature brownish red stems and attractive serrated leaves become full after pinching out the tips. Use the leaves in your dishes and drinks. Longer stems of the chocolate herb plant can be clipped for rooting more plants. Learning how to grow and harvest chocolate mint provides a regular supply of the fragrant leaves, which may be used fresh or dried for later use. Growing chocolate mint outside in pots that can be placed in full to partial sun is easy. Once you have a cutting rooted, you likely won’t need to get another plant. Yearly division of the contents of the pot results in an abundance of plants for you or to share with friends and family so that everyone has a container of the useful chocolate herb plant.
If you want to grow the chocolate herb plant in a garden with other herbs, plant the entire container and sink it into the ground. Don’t remove the bottom of the pot. Roots of the growing chocolate mint plant may escape through drainage holes, but you can remove the container once in awhile and clip off any roots that grow from drainage holes. You can also include it in a chocolate themed garden with other chocolate plants. Learning how to care for chocolate mint is simple too. Water and fertilize occasionally and grow in full sun for maximum flavor. Harvest throughout the growing season, unless you want the plant to display its attractive pink flowers in late spring to midsummer. If so, clip after flowering. Root new cuttings in late summer to bring inside for the winter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Mint is a fast-growing, aromatic herb plant in the Mentha genus. There are literally hundreds of mint plant varieties and far too many to name here. However, a number of these mint types are commonly grown in the garden. Keep reading for information on how to grow some of these different varieties of mint.
Growing Different Mint Plant Varieties
Most types of mint require the same, or similar, growing conditions. They like full sun to partial shade and most prefer moist, but well-draining, soil.
Another aspect that most mint types have in common is their invasive tendency. Therefore, regardless of the types of mint grown, care should be taken in keeping these plants under control — preferably with the use of containers. In addition to their invasiveness, consideration must also be given to spacing when growing various mint plant varieties in the garden. Different mint types should be planted as far apart as possible — like opposite ends of the garden. Why? True mint varieties are known to cross pollinate with other types of mint when planted within close proximity. This can result in characteristics from different mint types to appear in one plant, leading to the loss of the plant’s integrity with unfavorable scents or flavors.
Choosing Mint Plant Varieties
Each mint variety has its own flavor or scent, though some may be similar. Most, however, vary greatly between mint types. Be sure the type you choose not only is well suited to your growing region, but also its intended use in the garden. Not all mint varieties are used for culinary purposes. Some are better utilized for their aromatic properties or aesthetic appearances while others, like field mint, are normally treated as medicinal plants.
Types of Mint for the Garden
Listed below are some of the more commonly grown varieties of mint for the garden:
Peppermint
Spearmint
Pineapple mint
Apple mint (Woolly mint)
Pennyroyal
Ginger mint
Horsemint Red Raripila mint
Catmint
Chocolate mint
Orange mint
Lavender mint
Grapefruit mint
Calamint
Licorice mint
Basil mint
Chewing Gum mint
Watermint
Corn or Field mint
Growing Different Mint Plant Varieties
Most types of mint require the same, or similar, growing conditions. They like full sun to partial shade and most prefer moist, but well-draining, soil.
Another aspect that most mint types have in common is their invasive tendency. Therefore, regardless of the types of mint grown, care should be taken in keeping these plants under control — preferably with the use of containers. In addition to their invasiveness, consideration must also be given to spacing when growing various mint plant varieties in the garden. Different mint types should be planted as far apart as possible — like opposite ends of the garden. Why? True mint varieties are known to cross pollinate with other types of mint when planted within close proximity. This can result in characteristics from different mint types to appear in one plant, leading to the loss of the plant’s integrity with unfavorable scents or flavors.
Choosing Mint Plant Varieties
Each mint variety has its own flavor or scent, though some may be similar. Most, however, vary greatly between mint types. Be sure the type you choose not only is well suited to your growing region, but also its intended use in the garden. Not all mint varieties are used for culinary purposes. Some are better utilized for their aromatic properties or aesthetic appearances while others, like field mint, are normally treated as medicinal plants.
Types of Mint for the Garden
Listed below are some of the more commonly grown varieties of mint for the garden:
Peppermint
Spearmint
Pineapple mint
Apple mint (Woolly mint)
Pennyroyal
Ginger mint
Horsemint Red Raripila mint
Catmint
Chocolate mint
Orange mint
Lavender mint
Grapefruit mint
Calamint
Licorice mint
Basil mint
Chewing Gum mint
Watermint
Corn or Field mint
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
What is a shiso herb? Shiso, otherwise known as perilla, beefsteak plant, Chinese basil and purple mint, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. For centuries, growing perilla mint, or shiso, has been cultivated in China, India, Japan, Korea, Thailand, and other Asian countries but is more often classified as a weed in North America. Perilla mint plants are often found growing along fences, roadsides, in hay fields or pastures and are, hence, more often termed a weed in other countries. These mint plants are also quite toxic to cattle and other livestock, so it’s no wonder why shiso is considered more of a noxious, undesirable weed in some area of the world.
Uses for Perilla Mint Plants
Prized in Asian countries not only for its culinary uses, the oil extracted from these mint plants is also utilized as a valuable fuel source, while the leaves themselves are used medicinally and as a food coloring. The seeds from the perilla beefsteak plant are also eaten by people and as bird food. Perilla mint plants (Perilla frutescens) may also be grown as ornamentals due to their erect habitat and green or purplish-green to red serrated leaves. Growing perilla mint also has a distinctive minty aroma, especially when mature. In Japanese cuisine, where shiso is a common ingredient, there are two types of shiso: Aojiso and Akajiso (green and red). More recently, ethnic food markets in the United States carry many perilla mint plant products from fresh greens, oil, and condiments such as pickled plums or plum sauce. Perilla added to condiments not only colors the product but adds an antimicrobial agent to pickled food.
Oil from perilla mint is not only a fuel source in some countries but has recently been found to be an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids and is now sold as such to health conscious Western consumers. Additionally, perilla mint plant oil is used similarly to tung or linseed oil and also in paints, lacquers, varnish, inks, linoleum and waterproof coating on cloth. This unsaturated oil is slightly unstable but is 2,000 times sweeter than sugar and four ti eight times sweeter than saccharin. This high sugar content makes it a great candidate for alcohol production for consumption, but more usually used in the manufacture of fragrances or perfumes.
How to Grow Perilla Shiso
So, sounds intriguing, yes? The question now then is how to grow perilla shiso? Growing perilla mint plants are summer annuals which do best in warm, humid climates. When cultivating perilla, its downfall is its limited seed viability in storage, so store seeds at lower temperatures and humidity to improve the storage life and plant before they are a year old. Seeds for perilla plants can be sown as soon as possible in the spring and will self pollinate. Plant perilla seedlings 6 to 12 inches apart in well-drained but moist soil with full to partial sun exposure or direct sow them in well-drained soil and lightly cover. The shiso seeds will germinate rapidly at 68 degrees F. (20 C.) or even a little cooler.
Perilla Shiso Care
Perilla shiso care requires a medium amount of water. If the weather is exceedingly warm and humid, the plants’ tops should be pinched back to encourage bushier, less rangy plant growth. Flowers of the growing perilla mint bloom from July to October and are white to purple, attaining their maximum height of 6 inches to 3 feet tall before dying off during the coming frost. After the first year of growing perilla mint plants, they will easily self-seed in successive seasons.
Uses for Perilla Mint Plants
Prized in Asian countries not only for its culinary uses, the oil extracted from these mint plants is also utilized as a valuable fuel source, while the leaves themselves are used medicinally and as a food coloring. The seeds from the perilla beefsteak plant are also eaten by people and as bird food. Perilla mint plants (Perilla frutescens) may also be grown as ornamentals due to their erect habitat and green or purplish-green to red serrated leaves. Growing perilla mint also has a distinctive minty aroma, especially when mature. In Japanese cuisine, where shiso is a common ingredient, there are two types of shiso: Aojiso and Akajiso (green and red). More recently, ethnic food markets in the United States carry many perilla mint plant products from fresh greens, oil, and condiments such as pickled plums or plum sauce. Perilla added to condiments not only colors the product but adds an antimicrobial agent to pickled food.
Oil from perilla mint is not only a fuel source in some countries but has recently been found to be an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids and is now sold as such to health conscious Western consumers. Additionally, perilla mint plant oil is used similarly to tung or linseed oil and also in paints, lacquers, varnish, inks, linoleum and waterproof coating on cloth. This unsaturated oil is slightly unstable but is 2,000 times sweeter than sugar and four ti eight times sweeter than saccharin. This high sugar content makes it a great candidate for alcohol production for consumption, but more usually used in the manufacture of fragrances or perfumes.
How to Grow Perilla Shiso
So, sounds intriguing, yes? The question now then is how to grow perilla shiso? Growing perilla mint plants are summer annuals which do best in warm, humid climates. When cultivating perilla, its downfall is its limited seed viability in storage, so store seeds at lower temperatures and humidity to improve the storage life and plant before they are a year old. Seeds for perilla plants can be sown as soon as possible in the spring and will self pollinate. Plant perilla seedlings 6 to 12 inches apart in well-drained but moist soil with full to partial sun exposure or direct sow them in well-drained soil and lightly cover. The shiso seeds will germinate rapidly at 68 degrees F. (20 C.) or even a little cooler.
Perilla Shiso Care
Perilla shiso care requires a medium amount of water. If the weather is exceedingly warm and humid, the plants’ tops should be pinched back to encourage bushier, less rangy plant growth. Flowers of the growing perilla mint bloom from July to October and are white to purple, attaining their maximum height of 6 inches to 3 feet tall before dying off during the coming frost. After the first year of growing perilla mint plants, they will easily self-seed in successive seasons.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Pineapple mint plants (Mentha suaveolens ‘Variegata’) are among the most attractive varieties of mints. There are a number of pineapple mint uses that make this versatile plant well worth growing. Use it in beverages, as an attractive garnish, in potpourris and in any dish that calls for mint. It makes an attractive and fragrant ground cover, and also grows well in containers and hanging baskets. The only problem with pineapple mint is that it spreads vigorously. This can be good if you want to use it as a ground cover to fill an area, but it will eventually find its way into the rest of the garden unless you install a deep edging around it. Growing pineapple mint in containers is a good way to keep this and other mints under control, but you’ll still need to take some precautions. The plant has been known to escape through the drainage holes in the bottoms of pots and even jump from pot to pot in container groupings.
What is Pineapple Mint?
Pineapple mint is a variegated cultivar of apple mint (Mentha suaveolens). It features attractive, variegated leaves, usually with white margins, on plants that grow up to a foot tall. The leaves are bumpy and hairy and the white edging can make them look as though they are sporting a ruffle. White or light pink flowers bloom on small spikes at the top of the plant in summer. The flowers attract a wide variety of pollinating insects, including bees and butterflies. Deer dislike strong fragrances and hairy leaves, so they have two reasons to dislike pineapple mint.
How to Care for Pineapple Mint
Grow pineapple mint in full sun or partial shade in rich, moist soil. Plants grown in sun tend to stand upright, while those that get afternoon shade sprawl near the ground. Keep the soil evenly moist until the plants are well-established. Once they are growing well, you’ll only need to water them during dry spells. The plants don’t need regular fertilization when planted in good garden soil. Older plants become woody and unattractive. Pull them up and let younger plants fill in the empty space.
Pinch out the growing tips of pineapple mint plants regularly to keep them compact and bushy. You may occasionally find solid green sprigs of mint mixed in with your pineapple mint. These are sprigs of apple mint — the parent plant of the pineapple mint cultivar. You should pinch them out as you find them because, like most variegated plants, pineapple mint isn’t as vigorous as its non-variegated parent plant, and the apple mint will soon take over.
What is Pineapple Mint?
Pineapple mint is a variegated cultivar of apple mint (Mentha suaveolens). It features attractive, variegated leaves, usually with white margins, on plants that grow up to a foot tall. The leaves are bumpy and hairy and the white edging can make them look as though they are sporting a ruffle. White or light pink flowers bloom on small spikes at the top of the plant in summer. The flowers attract a wide variety of pollinating insects, including bees and butterflies. Deer dislike strong fragrances and hairy leaves, so they have two reasons to dislike pineapple mint.
How to Care for Pineapple Mint
Grow pineapple mint in full sun or partial shade in rich, moist soil. Plants grown in sun tend to stand upright, while those that get afternoon shade sprawl near the ground. Keep the soil evenly moist until the plants are well-established. Once they are growing well, you’ll only need to water them during dry spells. The plants don’t need regular fertilization when planted in good garden soil. Older plants become woody and unattractive. Pull them up and let younger plants fill in the empty space.
Pinch out the growing tips of pineapple mint plants regularly to keep them compact and bushy. You may occasionally find solid green sprigs of mint mixed in with your pineapple mint. These are sprigs of apple mint — the parent plant of the pineapple mint cultivar. You should pinch them out as you find them because, like most variegated plants, pineapple mint isn’t as vigorous as its non-variegated parent plant, and the apple mint will soon take over.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
What is wild mint or field mint? Field mint (Mentha arvensis) is a wild mint that is native to the central part of the United States. The scent of this wild mint growing in a field is often so strong you can smell it long before you can see it. Keep reading for field mint information and learn about wild mint growing in your garden.
Field Mint Information
Native Americans used to drink field mint tea as a remedy for colds, and it’s still used today for teas and flavorings for food. It’s an unusual-looking mint plant, with a square stem that grows from 6 to 18 inches tall with tufts of flowers puffing out around the stem every few inches. As with other types of mint, you can pick mature field mint leaves first thing in the morning for the best flavor. Enjoy them fresh chopped in iced tea, sprinkled on a salad or mixed into a variety of dishes. Dry the leaves for long term storage. You can enjoy mint tea from fresh or dried leaves.
Wild Mint Growing Conditions
Planting wild mint begins with choosing the right patch of garden in which to plant it. This plant does not like to get dried out, so sandy soils aren’t the best environment in which to grow your field mint. Dig a good quantity of compost into sandy soils to help keep the soil moist. Make sure your proposed planting site includes full sun, or almost full sun. It can tolerate light shade, but not dappled sun, like underneath a tree. Like any other mint plant, the care of field mint plant isn’t so much a question of keeping it healthy and alive as it is of keeping it held back. Mint is one of the most invasive plants you can put in your garden and can take over an entire yard in a matter of a few years. The easiest and least expensive way to prevent this from happening is by planting all mint plants in containers and never putting them in the garden itself.
Use a rich potting soil and a large pot to allow the mint to spread out a bit, and keep the flowers deadheaded to prevent them from seeding onto nearby soil. Plant field mint seeds in the fall after the leaves have fallen from the trees, or store them in the refrigerator vegetable bin for at least three months before planting them in the spring. Plant the seeds by sprinkling them on top of the soil, then watering them in. Seedlings should sprout in about a week.
Field Mint Information
Native Americans used to drink field mint tea as a remedy for colds, and it’s still used today for teas and flavorings for food. It’s an unusual-looking mint plant, with a square stem that grows from 6 to 18 inches tall with tufts of flowers puffing out around the stem every few inches. As with other types of mint, you can pick mature field mint leaves first thing in the morning for the best flavor. Enjoy them fresh chopped in iced tea, sprinkled on a salad or mixed into a variety of dishes. Dry the leaves for long term storage. You can enjoy mint tea from fresh or dried leaves.
Wild Mint Growing Conditions
Planting wild mint begins with choosing the right patch of garden in which to plant it. This plant does not like to get dried out, so sandy soils aren’t the best environment in which to grow your field mint. Dig a good quantity of compost into sandy soils to help keep the soil moist. Make sure your proposed planting site includes full sun, or almost full sun. It can tolerate light shade, but not dappled sun, like underneath a tree. Like any other mint plant, the care of field mint plant isn’t so much a question of keeping it healthy and alive as it is of keeping it held back. Mint is one of the most invasive plants you can put in your garden and can take over an entire yard in a matter of a few years. The easiest and least expensive way to prevent this from happening is by planting all mint plants in containers and never putting them in the garden itself.
Use a rich potting soil and a large pot to allow the mint to spread out a bit, and keep the flowers deadheaded to prevent them from seeding onto nearby soil. Plant field mint seeds in the fall after the leaves have fallen from the trees, or store them in the refrigerator vegetable bin for at least three months before planting them in the spring. Plant the seeds by sprinkling them on top of the soil, then watering them in. Seedlings should sprout in about a week.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Mint is a rapid growing herb that is nearly indestructible. This aromatic plant likes to be cut back and really needs to be or it may take over the garden. On occasion, critters — often worms — decide they like mint as much as you do. What can be done about worms eating a mint plant and what might these worms be? Let’s learn more.
Help, There are Green Worms on Mint Plants!
Mint should be grown in partial shade to full sun and is extremely hardy. It can survive temperatures down to -29 degrees F. (-33 C.). Believe me when I say that it can overtake a garden space unless it is controlled. Plant this aromatic herb in soil that is slightly acidic with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.
Even though it’s a tough plant, like all plants, it may become afflicted with some sort of disease or pest. Some of the less desirable nibblers include aphids, thrips, slugs and snails, and of course, even bunnies love to nibble on the sweet-smelling plant. If you witness damage to the plant and rule out the above culprits, another invader might just be worms in the mint plant. Worms in mint plants may be visible as small, green “inch” worms. They look kind of cute but they have a voracious appetite and if you hanker mojitos all summer long, they must be stopped! How can you get rid of these little green worms on the mint plant?
Treatment for Worms Eating Mint Plant
Well, you can always visually hunt for them and then squish the worms. It may take a while with this tactic to eradicate the pests, but at least you aren’t poisoning the mint or surrounding area with chemicals. Another organic approach is to use Bacillis thuringiensis. Yes, it’s a mouthful, but all it really is a bacterium that will kill off the caterpillars with little to no effect on you, wildlife, pollinators and other beneficial insects. The down side to this is that you must cut back the mint to the ground prior to applying Bacillis thuringiensis, or Bt. No worries though, as the mint will rapidly regroup. What if you can’t see any worms eating the mint plant? The culprit might still be mint plant worms – cutworms to be exact. Cutworms are nocturnal feeders and then post feast, hiding in the soil during the day at the plant’s base or in its debris. If you dig down a little bit, you may find cutworm larvae. They are 1 to 2 inches in length with a wide range of colors and patterns. A telltale sign it’s a cutworm? They curl into a C-shape when disturbed.
Cutworms aren’t picky about their diet and will eat all manner of veggies as well as other plants. They attack my rhodies on a regular basis. So how can you get rid of cutworms? Maintenance of the garden area is of primary importance and the first step. Clean out any plant debris, ridding the worms of a cozy place to hide. Then spread diatomaceous earth around the base of the mint plants. The sharp diatomaceous soil will cut the insects if they try and crawl over it. It will also keep the snails and slugs at bay if they are a problem for you too. You can also go out at night with a flashlight and hand pluck the larvae from the plant. Lastly, of course, if you choose not to go the organic route, there are insecticides that can be applied to kill the larvae, but why would you deny yourself the pleasure of crawling around in the dark with a flashlight and squishing worms?
Help, There are Green Worms on Mint Plants!
Mint should be grown in partial shade to full sun and is extremely hardy. It can survive temperatures down to -29 degrees F. (-33 C.). Believe me when I say that it can overtake a garden space unless it is controlled. Plant this aromatic herb in soil that is slightly acidic with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.
Even though it’s a tough plant, like all plants, it may become afflicted with some sort of disease or pest. Some of the less desirable nibblers include aphids, thrips, slugs and snails, and of course, even bunnies love to nibble on the sweet-smelling plant. If you witness damage to the plant and rule out the above culprits, another invader might just be worms in the mint plant. Worms in mint plants may be visible as small, green “inch” worms. They look kind of cute but they have a voracious appetite and if you hanker mojitos all summer long, they must be stopped! How can you get rid of these little green worms on the mint plant?
Treatment for Worms Eating Mint Plant
Well, you can always visually hunt for them and then squish the worms. It may take a while with this tactic to eradicate the pests, but at least you aren’t poisoning the mint or surrounding area with chemicals. Another organic approach is to use Bacillis thuringiensis. Yes, it’s a mouthful, but all it really is a bacterium that will kill off the caterpillars with little to no effect on you, wildlife, pollinators and other beneficial insects. The down side to this is that you must cut back the mint to the ground prior to applying Bacillis thuringiensis, or Bt. No worries though, as the mint will rapidly regroup. What if you can’t see any worms eating the mint plant? The culprit might still be mint plant worms – cutworms to be exact. Cutworms are nocturnal feeders and then post feast, hiding in the soil during the day at the plant’s base or in its debris. If you dig down a little bit, you may find cutworm larvae. They are 1 to 2 inches in length with a wide range of colors and patterns. A telltale sign it’s a cutworm? They curl into a C-shape when disturbed.
Cutworms aren’t picky about their diet and will eat all manner of veggies as well as other plants. They attack my rhodies on a regular basis. So how can you get rid of cutworms? Maintenance of the garden area is of primary importance and the first step. Clean out any plant debris, ridding the worms of a cozy place to hide. Then spread diatomaceous earth around the base of the mint plants. The sharp diatomaceous soil will cut the insects if they try and crawl over it. It will also keep the snails and slugs at bay if they are a problem for you too. You can also go out at night with a flashlight and hand pluck the larvae from the plant. Lastly, of course, if you choose not to go the organic route, there are insecticides that can be applied to kill the larvae, but why would you deny yourself the pleasure of crawling around in the dark with a flashlight and squishing worms?
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