文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Japanese forest grass plant is an elegant member of the Hakonechloa family. These ornamental plants are slow growing and require little extra care once established. The plants are semi-evergreen (depending on where you live, and may die back over winter) and show best in a partially shaded location. There are several different colors of Japanese forest grass plants. Choose a color that enlivens the surrounding landscape when you are growing forest grass.
Japanese Forest Grass Plant
Japanese forest grass is an attractive, graceful plant that grows slowly and is not invasive. The grass gets 18 to 24 inches tall and has an arching habit with long flat, foliar blades. These arching blades sweep from the base and gracefully re-touch the earth. Japanese forest grass comes in several hues and may be solid or striped. Most varieties are variegated and have stripes. The variegation is white or yellow. Golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) is one of the more popular types and is a completely sunny, bright yellow variety. The golden Japanese forest grass is best planted in full shade. Sunlight will fade the yellow leaf blades to a white. The leaves get a pink tinge to the edges as fall arrives, increasing the appeal of this easy to grow plant. The following cultivars of golden Japanese forest grass are most commonly grown in the garden:
All Gold’ is a sunny golden Japanese forest grass that brightens up dark areas of the garden.
‘Aureola’ has green and yellow blades.
‘Albo Striata’ is striped with white.
Growing Forest Grass
Japanese forest grass plant is suitable for USDA zones 5 to 9. It can survive in zone 4 with heavy protection and mulching. The grass grows from stolens and rhizomes, which will cause it to slowly spread over time. The plant thrives in moist soils in low light situations. The blades become slightly narrower at the ends and the tips may become dry or brown when exposed to bright light. For best results, plant it in moderate to full shade in a well-drained area with nutrient rich soil.
Caring for Japanese Forest Grasses
Caring for Japanese forest grasses is not a very time consuming chore. Once planted, Japanese forest grass is an easy to care for ornamental. The grass should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture. Hakonechloa doesn’t need supplemental fertilizing in good soils but if you do fertilize, wait until after the first blush of growth in spring. When sun hits the blades, they tend to brown. For those planted in sunnier areas, cut off the dead ends as needed to improve the appearance of the plant. In winter, cut back spent blades to the crown.
Older plants can be dug up and cut in half for quick propagation. Once the grass matures, it is easy to divide and propagate a new Japanese forest grass plant. Divide in spring or fall for the best plant starts.
Japanese Forest Grass Plant
Japanese forest grass is an attractive, graceful plant that grows slowly and is not invasive. The grass gets 18 to 24 inches tall and has an arching habit with long flat, foliar blades. These arching blades sweep from the base and gracefully re-touch the earth. Japanese forest grass comes in several hues and may be solid or striped. Most varieties are variegated and have stripes. The variegation is white or yellow. Golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) is one of the more popular types and is a completely sunny, bright yellow variety. The golden Japanese forest grass is best planted in full shade. Sunlight will fade the yellow leaf blades to a white. The leaves get a pink tinge to the edges as fall arrives, increasing the appeal of this easy to grow plant. The following cultivars of golden Japanese forest grass are most commonly grown in the garden:
All Gold’ is a sunny golden Japanese forest grass that brightens up dark areas of the garden.
‘Aureola’ has green and yellow blades.
‘Albo Striata’ is striped with white.
Growing Forest Grass
Japanese forest grass plant is suitable for USDA zones 5 to 9. It can survive in zone 4 with heavy protection and mulching. The grass grows from stolens and rhizomes, which will cause it to slowly spread over time. The plant thrives in moist soils in low light situations. The blades become slightly narrower at the ends and the tips may become dry or brown when exposed to bright light. For best results, plant it in moderate to full shade in a well-drained area with nutrient rich soil.
Caring for Japanese Forest Grasses
Caring for Japanese forest grasses is not a very time consuming chore. Once planted, Japanese forest grass is an easy to care for ornamental. The grass should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture. Hakonechloa doesn’t need supplemental fertilizing in good soils but if you do fertilize, wait until after the first blush of growth in spring. When sun hits the blades, they tend to brown. For those planted in sunnier areas, cut off the dead ends as needed to improve the appearance of the plant. In winter, cut back spent blades to the crown.
Older plants can be dug up and cut in half for quick propagation. Once the grass matures, it is easy to divide and propagate a new Japanese forest grass plant. Divide in spring or fall for the best plant starts.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Growing interrupted fern plants, Osmunda claytonia, is easy. Native to the Midwest and Northeast, these shade-tolerant plants grow in woodland sites. Gardeners add them to plantings of Solomon’s seal and hostas, or use the ferns to create a shaded border. Interrupted ferns even do well as erosion control plants on shaded slopes.
What is an Interrupted Fern?
Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.
Interrupted Fern Care
This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.
Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern
Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart:
Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown.
Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns.
Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems.
Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves.
For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.
What is an Interrupted Fern?
Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.
Interrupted Fern Care
This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.
Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern
Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart:
Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown.
Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns.
Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems.
Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves.
For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Have you ever thought about growing hosta indoors? Typically, hostas are grown outdoors in shady or semi-shady areas, either in the ground or in containers. However, just because growing hosta as an indoor plant isn’t the norm, that doesn’t mean it can’t be done – beautifully! Read on to learn how to grow hosta indoors.
Can I Grow Hosta Inside?
Definitely! However, growing hosta indoors requires a bit more care and attention to ensure the plant’s needs are met.
How to Grow Hosta Indoors
Begin with the right container for your hosta. Some varieties require a very large pot, while small cultivars do fine in a relatively small container. To prevent rot, be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the hosta where it receives bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which is too intense. As with many other houseplants, they appreciate time outdoors during spring and summer, preferably in a somewhat shady location. With hosta houseplant care, you’ll want to water indoor hosta plants whenever the soil feels slightly dry, as hosta prefers soil that is consistently moist, but never soggy. Water deeply until excess trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Avoid wetting the leaves.
Fertilize hosta every other week during the growing season, using a water-soluble fertilizer for houseplants. Unlike most indoor plants, indoor hostas require a period of dormancy during the winter, which replicates the plant’s normal outdoor growing conditions. Move the plant to a dark room where temperatures remain cool – about 40 F. (4 C.), but never freezing. The leaves may drop off during dormancy. Don’t worry; this is par for the course. Protect the roots with a layer of shredded bark or other organic mulch. Water the hosta lightly once a month throughout the winter months. While the plant requires little moisture during this time, the soil shouldn’t be allowed to become bone dry.
Return the hosta to its normal location in spring and care for as normal. Move the hosta to a larger container whenever the plant outgrows its pot – generally once every two or three years. If the plant has become larger than you like, this is a good time to divide it.
Can I Grow Hosta Inside?
Definitely! However, growing hosta indoors requires a bit more care and attention to ensure the plant’s needs are met.
How to Grow Hosta Indoors
Begin with the right container for your hosta. Some varieties require a very large pot, while small cultivars do fine in a relatively small container. To prevent rot, be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the hosta where it receives bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight, which is too intense. As with many other houseplants, they appreciate time outdoors during spring and summer, preferably in a somewhat shady location. With hosta houseplant care, you’ll want to water indoor hosta plants whenever the soil feels slightly dry, as hosta prefers soil that is consistently moist, but never soggy. Water deeply until excess trickles through the drainage hole, then let the pot drain thoroughly. Avoid wetting the leaves.
Fertilize hosta every other week during the growing season, using a water-soluble fertilizer for houseplants. Unlike most indoor plants, indoor hostas require a period of dormancy during the winter, which replicates the plant’s normal outdoor growing conditions. Move the plant to a dark room where temperatures remain cool – about 40 F. (4 C.), but never freezing. The leaves may drop off during dormancy. Don’t worry; this is par for the course. Protect the roots with a layer of shredded bark or other organic mulch. Water the hosta lightly once a month throughout the winter months. While the plant requires little moisture during this time, the soil shouldn’t be allowed to become bone dry.
Return the hosta to its normal location in spring and care for as normal. Move the hosta to a larger container whenever the plant outgrows its pot – generally once every two or three years. If the plant has become larger than you like, this is a good time to divide it.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas are popular with many gardeners because they are easy to grow and maintain. They are perennials, coming back year after year, and they tolerate shade. Hostas tend to grow large, but if your space is limited, growing the adorably mouse-ear hosta may be for you. If you want to know how to grow mouse-ear hosta, here’s what you need to know.
What is a Mouse-Ear Hosta?
Miniature hostas are just what they sound like: miniature versions of the hosta plants you know and love. Blue mouse-ear hosta is one variety of this cute little perennial that is easy to grow and care for in a variety of settings. At a maximum, these little plants grow to a height of eight inches (20 cm.) and a spread of 12 inches (30 cm.). The leaves are thick, blue-green, rubbery, and curl inward a little bit, like a mouse’s ear.
Mouse-Ear Hosta Information and Care
The blue mouse-ear hosta grows into a compact little mound with near-perfect symmetry, so it is a beautiful addition to gardens, especially small spaces. It will produce showy, pale purple, bell-shaped flowers on stalks in midsummer. Mouse-ear hosta care is as easy as the care of regular-sized hostas. They prefer part to full shade and soil that drains well. Unlike the larger varieties, these little hostas don’t tolerate heavy or clay soil very well. If you plan to place your mouse-ear hosta in the ground, you can amend the soil by mixing in pea gravel. Mulch is also important for miniature hosta plants. Because they are small, even a mild rain can splash up dirt and mud and leave the foliage looking messy.
Growing mouse-ear hosta is versatile as well as easy. These more compact plants are great for containers, but they can also be placed anywhere in the garden that a normal-sized hosta would go. Because of the small size and compact arrangement of foliage, mouse-ear hosta also makes a great groundcover for those shady areas where grass doesn’t grow well. They look nice in rock gardens and around water features. The possibilities for mouse-ear hosta are nearly endless, and they make great additions to nearly every type of garden.
What is a Mouse-Ear Hosta?
Miniature hostas are just what they sound like: miniature versions of the hosta plants you know and love. Blue mouse-ear hosta is one variety of this cute little perennial that is easy to grow and care for in a variety of settings. At a maximum, these little plants grow to a height of eight inches (20 cm.) and a spread of 12 inches (30 cm.). The leaves are thick, blue-green, rubbery, and curl inward a little bit, like a mouse’s ear.
Mouse-Ear Hosta Information and Care
The blue mouse-ear hosta grows into a compact little mound with near-perfect symmetry, so it is a beautiful addition to gardens, especially small spaces. It will produce showy, pale purple, bell-shaped flowers on stalks in midsummer. Mouse-ear hosta care is as easy as the care of regular-sized hostas. They prefer part to full shade and soil that drains well. Unlike the larger varieties, these little hostas don’t tolerate heavy or clay soil very well. If you plan to place your mouse-ear hosta in the ground, you can amend the soil by mixing in pea gravel. Mulch is also important for miniature hosta plants. Because they are small, even a mild rain can splash up dirt and mud and leave the foliage looking messy.
Growing mouse-ear hosta is versatile as well as easy. These more compact plants are great for containers, but they can also be placed anywhere in the garden that a normal-sized hosta would go. Because of the small size and compact arrangement of foliage, mouse-ear hosta also makes a great groundcover for those shady areas where grass doesn’t grow well. They look nice in rock gardens and around water features. The possibilities for mouse-ear hosta are nearly endless, and they make great additions to nearly every type of garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
I love ferns and we have our share of them in the Pacific Northwest. I’m not the only admirer of ferns and, in fact, many people collect them. One little beauty begging to be added to a fern collection is called the heart fern plant. Growing heart ferns as houseplants may take a little TLC, but is well worth the effort.
Information About the Heart Fern Plant
The scientific name for the heart leaf fern is Hemionitis arifolia and is commonly referred to by a number of names, including tongue fern. First identified in 1859, heart leaf ferns are native to Southeast Asia. It is a delicate dwarf fern, which is also an epiphyte, meaning it grows upon trees as well.
It makes not only an attractive specimen to add to the fern collection, but is being studied for purported beneficial effects in the treatment of diabetes. The jury is still out, but early Asian cultures utilized heart leaf to treat the disease. This fern presents itself with dark green heart-shaped fronds, about 2-3 inches long and borne on black stems, and reaches a height of between 6-8 inches tall. Leaves are dimorphic, meaning some are sterile and some are fertile. The sterile fronds are heart shaped upon a 2- to 4-inch thick stalk, while the fertile fronds are shaped like an arrowhead on a thicker stalk. The fronds are not the stereotypical fern leaves. Heart fern’s foliage is thick, leathery and slightly waxy. Like other ferns, it does not flower but reproduces from spores in the spring.
Heart Fern Care
Because this fern is native to regions of warm temperatures and high humidity, the challenge for the gardener growing heart ferns as houseplants is in maintaining those conditions: low light, high humidity and warm temperatures. If you reside in an area with climactic outdoor conditions that mimic those above, then heart fern may do well in an area outdoors, but for the rest of us, this little fern should grow in a terrarium or a shaded place in an atrium or greenhouse. Keep the temperature between 60-85 degrees F. (15-29 C.) with lower temps at night and high ones during the day. Increase the humidity level by keeping a gravel filled drainage tray beneath the fern. Heart fern care also tells us that this evergreen perennial needs well-draining soil that is fertile, moist and humus rich. A mix of clean aquarium charcoal, one part sand, two parts humus and two parts garden soil (with a bit of fir bark for both drainage and moisture) is recommended. Ferns don’t need a lot of extra fertilizer, so only feed once a month with a water-soluble fertilizer diluted in half.
The heart fern houseplant needs bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the plant moist, but not wet, as it is prone to rot. Ideally, you should use soft water or let hard tap water sit overnight to dissipate the harsh chemicals and then use the next day. Heart fern is also prone to scale, mealybugs and aphids. It is best to remove these by hand rather than relying on a pesticide, though neem oil is an effective and organic option. All in all, heart fern is a fairly low maintenance and thoroughly delightful addition to a fern collection or for anyone that wants a unique houseplant.
Information About the Heart Fern Plant
The scientific name for the heart leaf fern is Hemionitis arifolia and is commonly referred to by a number of names, including tongue fern. First identified in 1859, heart leaf ferns are native to Southeast Asia. It is a delicate dwarf fern, which is also an epiphyte, meaning it grows upon trees as well.
It makes not only an attractive specimen to add to the fern collection, but is being studied for purported beneficial effects in the treatment of diabetes. The jury is still out, but early Asian cultures utilized heart leaf to treat the disease. This fern presents itself with dark green heart-shaped fronds, about 2-3 inches long and borne on black stems, and reaches a height of between 6-8 inches tall. Leaves are dimorphic, meaning some are sterile and some are fertile. The sterile fronds are heart shaped upon a 2- to 4-inch thick stalk, while the fertile fronds are shaped like an arrowhead on a thicker stalk. The fronds are not the stereotypical fern leaves. Heart fern’s foliage is thick, leathery and slightly waxy. Like other ferns, it does not flower but reproduces from spores in the spring.
Heart Fern Care
Because this fern is native to regions of warm temperatures and high humidity, the challenge for the gardener growing heart ferns as houseplants is in maintaining those conditions: low light, high humidity and warm temperatures. If you reside in an area with climactic outdoor conditions that mimic those above, then heart fern may do well in an area outdoors, but for the rest of us, this little fern should grow in a terrarium or a shaded place in an atrium or greenhouse. Keep the temperature between 60-85 degrees F. (15-29 C.) with lower temps at night and high ones during the day. Increase the humidity level by keeping a gravel filled drainage tray beneath the fern. Heart fern care also tells us that this evergreen perennial needs well-draining soil that is fertile, moist and humus rich. A mix of clean aquarium charcoal, one part sand, two parts humus and two parts garden soil (with a bit of fir bark for both drainage and moisture) is recommended. Ferns don’t need a lot of extra fertilizer, so only feed once a month with a water-soluble fertilizer diluted in half.
The heart fern houseplant needs bright, indirect sunlight. Keep the plant moist, but not wet, as it is prone to rot. Ideally, you should use soft water or let hard tap water sit overnight to dissipate the harsh chemicals and then use the next day. Heart fern is also prone to scale, mealybugs and aphids. It is best to remove these by hand rather than relying on a pesticide, though neem oil is an effective and organic option. All in all, heart fern is a fairly low maintenance and thoroughly delightful addition to a fern collection or for anyone that wants a unique houseplant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Gunnera manicata is one of the most astounding plants you will ever see. The larger specimens of these ornamental giants can be quite expensive but don’t worry, collecting gunnera seeds and growing plants from them is easy. There are just a few crucial items to know about gunnera seed propagation to ensure success. Read this little article for some tips on how to propagate gunnera from seed and grow your own giant rhubarb.
Collecting Gunnera Seeds
There are over 50 species of gunnera, but the most impactful is the huge Gunnera manicata, which is native to the mountains of southeastern Brazil. This monster of a plant can have leaves of 11 by 6 feet on petioles that are 8 feet in length. It is the most common in cultivation and harvesting seeds from the plant is relatively simple but they need special treatment to ensure germination. Seed propagating gunnera plants requires exacting temperatures and careful handling of the seed.
Gunnera plants produce large brownish panicles filled with tiny red-brown flowers. Pollinated flowers become small red berry-like fruits. Once ripe, these fruits are filled with numerous fine black seeds. These seeds are sensitive to handling and the oils on your skin can affect germination. When harvesting seed, wear gloves to prevent contamination. Seed propagating gunnera plants is not the only method of reproduction. Another common and quick method is by dividing the root ball and planting the resulting individual babies. Growing gunnera seeds is a much slower process but you can get many more starts and have the fun of watching these monstrous plants grow from pups to huge garden specimens.
How to Propagate Gunnera from Seed
Once the panicles produce fruit, wait until they are ripe and bursting before harvesting them. Open fruits over a container to collect the tiny seeds. Use them immediately for best results or refrigerate them for a short period. Always use gloves when handling seed. Sow in a flat filled with good moistened compost mixed with vermiculite or perlite. Seeds should be lightly strewn at about one inch apart. These seeds need light for germination so you can simply lightly tamp them into soil or gently cover with a fine layer of sand. Cover the tray with plastic or glass and place where temperatures are 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20-25 C.). Best gunnera seed propagation is achieved in warmer temperatures. Bottom heat will speed germination. Remove the plastic or glass once every day to allow air into the area and mist to keep moist.
Follow-up Care When Growing Gunnera Seeds
Germination is generally quite quick, within 15 days, but may take up to 60 days. Thin is necessary and grow the seedlings on in their flat until two pairs of true leaves appear. Then transplant to 2-inch pots filled with good compost. Keep them moistened and provide ventilation in a warm area of the home, garden or greenhouse. Lighting should be bright but not scorching. It is important to not let the seedlings dry out. Give seedlings a liquid diluted fertilizer once per month during the growing season. Do not transplant outdoors until young plants are a year old. Protect plants in the garden from freezing. In a few years you, will have your own giant gunnera plants, a sight which will amaze and awe your friends and family.
Collecting Gunnera Seeds
There are over 50 species of gunnera, but the most impactful is the huge Gunnera manicata, which is native to the mountains of southeastern Brazil. This monster of a plant can have leaves of 11 by 6 feet on petioles that are 8 feet in length. It is the most common in cultivation and harvesting seeds from the plant is relatively simple but they need special treatment to ensure germination. Seed propagating gunnera plants requires exacting temperatures and careful handling of the seed.
Gunnera plants produce large brownish panicles filled with tiny red-brown flowers. Pollinated flowers become small red berry-like fruits. Once ripe, these fruits are filled with numerous fine black seeds. These seeds are sensitive to handling and the oils on your skin can affect germination. When harvesting seed, wear gloves to prevent contamination. Seed propagating gunnera plants is not the only method of reproduction. Another common and quick method is by dividing the root ball and planting the resulting individual babies. Growing gunnera seeds is a much slower process but you can get many more starts and have the fun of watching these monstrous plants grow from pups to huge garden specimens.
How to Propagate Gunnera from Seed
Once the panicles produce fruit, wait until they are ripe and bursting before harvesting them. Open fruits over a container to collect the tiny seeds. Use them immediately for best results or refrigerate them for a short period. Always use gloves when handling seed. Sow in a flat filled with good moistened compost mixed with vermiculite or perlite. Seeds should be lightly strewn at about one inch apart. These seeds need light for germination so you can simply lightly tamp them into soil or gently cover with a fine layer of sand. Cover the tray with plastic or glass and place where temperatures are 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20-25 C.). Best gunnera seed propagation is achieved in warmer temperatures. Bottom heat will speed germination. Remove the plastic or glass once every day to allow air into the area and mist to keep moist.
Follow-up Care When Growing Gunnera Seeds
Germination is generally quite quick, within 15 days, but may take up to 60 days. Thin is necessary and grow the seedlings on in their flat until two pairs of true leaves appear. Then transplant to 2-inch pots filled with good compost. Keep them moistened and provide ventilation in a warm area of the home, garden or greenhouse. Lighting should be bright but not scorching. It is important to not let the seedlings dry out. Give seedlings a liquid diluted fertilizer once per month during the growing season. Do not transplant outdoors until young plants are a year old. Protect plants in the garden from freezing. In a few years you, will have your own giant gunnera plants, a sight which will amaze and awe your friends and family.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
The shade-loving coleus is a favorite among shade and container gardeners. With its bright leaves and tolerant nature, many gardeners wonder if coleus propagation can be done at home. The answer is, yes, and quite easily. Taking coleus cuttings or growing coleus from seed is quite easy. Keep reading to learn more about how to propagate coleus.
How to Plant Coleus Seed
Growing coleus from seed starts with getting the seeds. Coleus seeds are fairly easy to find and should be available at nearly any store that sells flower seeds. If you are unable to find them at a store, many companies sell them online. Coleus seeds are typically sold as mixed, which will give you a nice variety in the foliage colors.
Start sowing coleus seed with a flat or container with a damp potting soil. Lightly sprinkle the coleus seeds over the soil. Mixing the seeds with fine sand before sowing can help you to spread the seeds more evenly with a bit more of a gap between the seeds.
After you have spread the coleus seeds, cover them with a fine layer of potting soil. Cover the container with plastic and place in a warm spot in bright, indirect light. You should see seedlings in about two weeks. When you see the coleus seedlings, remove the plastic. Keep the soil moist as the seedlings grow. You will find it is less damaging to the coleus seedlings to water from below. Once the seedlings are large enough to be handled (typically when they have two sets of true leaves), they can be transplanted to individual containers.
How to Root Coleus Cuttings
Equally as easy as growing coleus from seed is taking coleus cuttings to root and grow. Start this method of coleus propagation by finding a mature coleus plant. Using a sharp. Clean pair of scissors or shears, cut off as many coleus cuttings as desired. The cuttings should be between 4 to 6 inches. Make the cut for the cutting just below a leaf node. Next, remove all of the leaves from the lower half of the cutting. If desired, dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Prepare the soil you will be rooting the coleus cutting in by making sure that it is thoroughly moistened. Then stick a pencil into the soil. Place the coleus cutting into the hole made by the pencil. The soil should cover at least the bottom most leafless node. Push the soil back around the cutting.
Place the rooting container in a plastic zip top bag or cover the entire container with plastic wrap. Make sure that the plastic is not touching the cutting. If needed, use toothpicks of sticks to keep the plastic off the cutting. Place the container in bright, but indirect light. The coleus cutting should root in two to three weeks. You will know it is rooted when you see new growth on the coleus cutting. Alternately, another method for how to root coleus cuttings is in water. After taking your cuttings, place them in a small glass of water and place this in bright indirect light. Change the water every other day. Once you see roots grow, you can transplant the coleus cuttings into soil.
How to Plant Coleus Seed
Growing coleus from seed starts with getting the seeds. Coleus seeds are fairly easy to find and should be available at nearly any store that sells flower seeds. If you are unable to find them at a store, many companies sell them online. Coleus seeds are typically sold as mixed, which will give you a nice variety in the foliage colors.
Start sowing coleus seed with a flat or container with a damp potting soil. Lightly sprinkle the coleus seeds over the soil. Mixing the seeds with fine sand before sowing can help you to spread the seeds more evenly with a bit more of a gap between the seeds.
After you have spread the coleus seeds, cover them with a fine layer of potting soil. Cover the container with plastic and place in a warm spot in bright, indirect light. You should see seedlings in about two weeks. When you see the coleus seedlings, remove the plastic. Keep the soil moist as the seedlings grow. You will find it is less damaging to the coleus seedlings to water from below. Once the seedlings are large enough to be handled (typically when they have two sets of true leaves), they can be transplanted to individual containers.
How to Root Coleus Cuttings
Equally as easy as growing coleus from seed is taking coleus cuttings to root and grow. Start this method of coleus propagation by finding a mature coleus plant. Using a sharp. Clean pair of scissors or shears, cut off as many coleus cuttings as desired. The cuttings should be between 4 to 6 inches. Make the cut for the cutting just below a leaf node. Next, remove all of the leaves from the lower half of the cutting. If desired, dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Prepare the soil you will be rooting the coleus cutting in by making sure that it is thoroughly moistened. Then stick a pencil into the soil. Place the coleus cutting into the hole made by the pencil. The soil should cover at least the bottom most leafless node. Push the soil back around the cutting.
Place the rooting container in a plastic zip top bag or cover the entire container with plastic wrap. Make sure that the plastic is not touching the cutting. If needed, use toothpicks of sticks to keep the plastic off the cutting. Place the container in bright, but indirect light. The coleus cutting should root in two to three weeks. You will know it is rooted when you see new growth on the coleus cutting. Alternately, another method for how to root coleus cuttings is in water. After taking your cuttings, place them in a small glass of water and place this in bright indirect light. Change the water every other day. Once you see roots grow, you can transplant the coleus cuttings into soil.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Coleus is a fantastic plant for adding color to your garden or house. A member of the mint family, it’s not known for its flowers, but for its beautiful and vibrantly colored leaves. On top of that, it’s extremely well suited to growing in containers. But how do you grow coleus in pots? Keep reading to learn about potted coleus care and how to grow coleus in containers.
Caring for Coleus in Containers
Growing coleus in a pot is an ideal way to keep it. It won’t grow larger than the container it’s in, but if moved to a bigger container, it will fill it out, reaching as high as 2 feet tall. Since they will stay compact if need be, coleus in pots pair well with other plants. You can plant them as shorter ground cover in large pots featuring a tree or tall shrub, or you can plant them as the main tall attraction surrounded by other trailing plants around the outside edge. They also work very well in hanging baskets, particularly the trailing varieties.
How to Grow Coleus in Pots
To keep your coleus in pots from getting gangly, pinch back the new growth. Simply pinch back the very ends of the stems with your fingers – this will encourage new shoots to branch out on the sides, making for an overall bushier plant. Plant your coleus in a sturdy container that won’t tip over if it does get to be 2 feet tall. Fill your container with well-draining soil and fertilize moderately. Be careful not to over fertilize, though, or your coleus in pots may lose their brilliant color. Water regularly, keeping the soil moist.
Keep them out of the wind to avoid breakage. Coleus will not survive a frost, so either treat your plant as an annual or move it inside when temperatures begin to drop.
Caring for Coleus in Containers
Growing coleus in a pot is an ideal way to keep it. It won’t grow larger than the container it’s in, but if moved to a bigger container, it will fill it out, reaching as high as 2 feet tall. Since they will stay compact if need be, coleus in pots pair well with other plants. You can plant them as shorter ground cover in large pots featuring a tree or tall shrub, or you can plant them as the main tall attraction surrounded by other trailing plants around the outside edge. They also work very well in hanging baskets, particularly the trailing varieties.
How to Grow Coleus in Pots
To keep your coleus in pots from getting gangly, pinch back the new growth. Simply pinch back the very ends of the stems with your fingers – this will encourage new shoots to branch out on the sides, making for an overall bushier plant. Plant your coleus in a sturdy container that won’t tip over if it does get to be 2 feet tall. Fill your container with well-draining soil and fertilize moderately. Be careful not to over fertilize, though, or your coleus in pots may lose their brilliant color. Water regularly, keeping the soil moist.
Keep them out of the wind to avoid breakage. Coleus will not survive a frost, so either treat your plant as an annual or move it inside when temperatures begin to drop.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Can I grow coleus indoors? Sure, why not? Although coleus is typically grown outdoors as an annual, its vibrant leaves provide many months of enjoyment indoors if growing conditions are just right. In fact, coleus plants respond well to potted environments. Read on to learn more about growing coleus as an indoor plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Bracken ferns (Pteridium aquilinum) are quite common in North America and native to many areas of the United States. Bracken fern information says the large fern is one of the most prevalent ferns growing on the continent. Bracken fern in gardens and in woodland areas may be located in all states, except Nebraska.
Bracken Fern Information
Bracken fern uses may be somewhat limited in the garden, but once you’ve found the right spot and the proper use for them, they are easy to get started. Growing bracken fern in gardens is often not a good idea because it can usually out compete other plants growing in the same area.
Bracken ferns in gardens and other areas are attractive plants with delicate looking fronds. Plants normally reach from 3 to 4 feet in height, but they may grow up to 7 feet. The fronds appear early in spring. Foliage grows from underground rhizomes that spread quickly, so much so that most other plants attempting to share the same soil are occasionally quickly overtaken. If one of your chosen bracken fern uses is as part of a woodland garden, expect them to spread through the wooded area.
Bracken fern uses may be in rock gardens, edging for wooded areas and anywhere a large, ferny specimen is needed and will not crowd out most ornamentals. Other woodland plants which can grow successfully with bracken ferns include:
Wild violets
Sarsaparilla
Oak fern
Wild asters
Conditions and Care of Bracken Fern Plants
Bracken fern growing conditions include some shade, but not too much. Unlike many ferns, bracken fern information says the plant won’t grow in full shade. And while optimum bracken fern growing conditions include moist soil, the plant won’t survive in a waterlogged area. When planted in the right area, however, care of bracken fern plants may include removal of them if they become too aggressive. Aside from spreading rhizomes, bracken fern information says the plant multiplies from dropped spores that fall from the feathery fronds. Bracken fern uses in your landscape may be growing them in containers to limit their spread. The plant should be grown in a large pot, or one that is buried to curtail spread of the rhizomes.
Bracken ferns are poisonous, so plant them out of the way of livestock and wildlife. Some info about the plant suggests that it should not be cultivated, but bracken fern toxicity usually occurs when the fern is harvested along with food grown for livestock. It you think your pet has ingested bracken fern, contact poison control or your veterinarian.
Bracken Fern Information
Bracken fern uses may be somewhat limited in the garden, but once you’ve found the right spot and the proper use for them, they are easy to get started. Growing bracken fern in gardens is often not a good idea because it can usually out compete other plants growing in the same area.
Bracken ferns in gardens and other areas are attractive plants with delicate looking fronds. Plants normally reach from 3 to 4 feet in height, but they may grow up to 7 feet. The fronds appear early in spring. Foliage grows from underground rhizomes that spread quickly, so much so that most other plants attempting to share the same soil are occasionally quickly overtaken. If one of your chosen bracken fern uses is as part of a woodland garden, expect them to spread through the wooded area.
Bracken fern uses may be in rock gardens, edging for wooded areas and anywhere a large, ferny specimen is needed and will not crowd out most ornamentals. Other woodland plants which can grow successfully with bracken ferns include:
Wild violets
Sarsaparilla
Oak fern
Wild asters
Conditions and Care of Bracken Fern Plants
Bracken fern growing conditions include some shade, but not too much. Unlike many ferns, bracken fern information says the plant won’t grow in full shade. And while optimum bracken fern growing conditions include moist soil, the plant won’t survive in a waterlogged area. When planted in the right area, however, care of bracken fern plants may include removal of them if they become too aggressive. Aside from spreading rhizomes, bracken fern information says the plant multiplies from dropped spores that fall from the feathery fronds. Bracken fern uses in your landscape may be growing them in containers to limit their spread. The plant should be grown in a large pot, or one that is buried to curtail spread of the rhizomes.
Bracken ferns are poisonous, so plant them out of the way of livestock and wildlife. Some info about the plant suggests that it should not be cultivated, but bracken fern toxicity usually occurs when the fern is harvested along with food grown for livestock. It you think your pet has ingested bracken fern, contact poison control or your veterinarian.
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0
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
If you have been on a nature hike in Eastern North America, you have likely come across bladder fern plants. The bulblet bladder fern is a native plant found in shaded cliffs and dry, rocky slopes. Growing bladder ferns in the landscape lends an air of the wild to a naturalized garden. Plus, these little ferns are easy to care for and grow in full to partial shade areas of the garden that are often difficult to populate with many choice plants.
Bladder Fern Information
Bulblet bladder fern (Cystopteris bulbifera) is named for the tiny green bladder-like structures on the underside of some leaves. These are potential reproductive structures that eventually fall off and produce new ferns. The fern is a rock-loving species found in limestone or sandstone formations. As part of the home garden, they add lacy-leaved elegance and low maintenance greenery to the shadier spots in the landscape.
Bladder fern plants reproduce semi-vegetatively but also develop spores which fuel the development of the bulblets. These are found on the underside of leaves on the stem which divide the leaflets, or pinnae. Bulblets are bright green, semi-glossy and start out as tiny balls, developing into kidney shaped pre-leaves. When mature, these bulblets fall off the parent plant and can become new ferns in the correct conditions. Dividing the spreading rootstock is another way of growing bladder ferns. To add to bladder fern information, a single adult frond can produce more than 50 bulblets, indicating the ease of spread of this little plant. As a result, bladder ferns make excellent ground cover over time, increasing their numbers in just a few seasons exponentially.
Conditions for Growing Bladder Ferns
Bladder ferns prefer moist soil in dappled areas. The plants are often found in tree lined outcrops and cliff sides. The leaves are deciduous and spread by prolific rhizomes. They can thrive in sandy, clay or loam soil but requires good drainage. The ferns are also adaptable to any pH soil. Healthy plants need a thin layer of organic material, which in nature casually filters into the crevasses the plant prefers to grow into and slowly breaks down to release nutrients. In the home landscape, a little bit of well-rotted compost added to the planting hole will increase plant health. Always plant ferns at the depth in which they were installed in their nursery container. A note about acquisition of the plants: Do not harvest these or any other plant from the wild, as such activities can disrupt the careful balance of nature and potentially harm existing populations. Be sure to obtain plants from a reputable nursery that specializes in them.
Bladder Fern Care
Bladder fern is a low maintenance plant if situated in conditions it prefers. Low to medium light conditions favor the plant. In fall, when cold temperatures arrive, the leaves will begin to die back. Leave the dead foliage on the plant, if possible, over winter to form a type of protective canopy over the core. In late winter to early spring, cut off the dead leaves to make way for new leaflets. There is no need to fertilize this fern but, in fall, spread compost around the base of the plant to gradually break down and feed the roots. Bladder fern care is minimal and the plant is fast growing, spreading quickly. In the garden, the plant will make a lush green ground cover from spring to fall.
Bladder Fern Information
Bulblet bladder fern (Cystopteris bulbifera) is named for the tiny green bladder-like structures on the underside of some leaves. These are potential reproductive structures that eventually fall off and produce new ferns. The fern is a rock-loving species found in limestone or sandstone formations. As part of the home garden, they add lacy-leaved elegance and low maintenance greenery to the shadier spots in the landscape.
Bladder fern plants reproduce semi-vegetatively but also develop spores which fuel the development of the bulblets. These are found on the underside of leaves on the stem which divide the leaflets, or pinnae. Bulblets are bright green, semi-glossy and start out as tiny balls, developing into kidney shaped pre-leaves. When mature, these bulblets fall off the parent plant and can become new ferns in the correct conditions. Dividing the spreading rootstock is another way of growing bladder ferns. To add to bladder fern information, a single adult frond can produce more than 50 bulblets, indicating the ease of spread of this little plant. As a result, bladder ferns make excellent ground cover over time, increasing their numbers in just a few seasons exponentially.
Conditions for Growing Bladder Ferns
Bladder ferns prefer moist soil in dappled areas. The plants are often found in tree lined outcrops and cliff sides. The leaves are deciduous and spread by prolific rhizomes. They can thrive in sandy, clay or loam soil but requires good drainage. The ferns are also adaptable to any pH soil. Healthy plants need a thin layer of organic material, which in nature casually filters into the crevasses the plant prefers to grow into and slowly breaks down to release nutrients. In the home landscape, a little bit of well-rotted compost added to the planting hole will increase plant health. Always plant ferns at the depth in which they were installed in their nursery container. A note about acquisition of the plants: Do not harvest these or any other plant from the wild, as such activities can disrupt the careful balance of nature and potentially harm existing populations. Be sure to obtain plants from a reputable nursery that specializes in them.
Bladder Fern Care
Bladder fern is a low maintenance plant if situated in conditions it prefers. Low to medium light conditions favor the plant. In fall, when cold temperatures arrive, the leaves will begin to die back. Leave the dead foliage on the plant, if possible, over winter to form a type of protective canopy over the core. In late winter to early spring, cut off the dead leaves to make way for new leaflets. There is no need to fertilize this fern but, in fall, spread compost around the base of the plant to gradually break down and feed the roots. Bladder fern care is minimal and the plant is fast growing, spreading quickly. In the garden, the plant will make a lush green ground cover from spring to fall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
When I think of bamboo, I recall the virtual forest of bamboo on a Hawaiian vacation. Obviously, the weather there is consistently mild and, thus, the cold tolerance of bamboo plants is nil. Since most of us don’t live in such a paradise, growing cold hardy bamboo plants is a necessity. What are some cold weather bamboo varieties suitable for the colder USDA zones? Read on to find out.
About Cold Hardy Bamboo Varieties
Bamboo, in general, is a fast-growing evergreen. They are two ilks: Leptomorph and Pachymorph. Leptomorph bamboos have monopodial running rhizomes and spread vigorously. They need to be managed and, if not, are known to grow rampantly and willfully. Pachymorph refers to those bamboos that have sympodial clumping roots. The genus Fargesia is an example of a pachymorph or clumping variety that is also a cold tolerant bamboo variety. The hardy bamboo varieties of Fargesia are native understory plants found in the mountains of China under pines and along streams. Until recently, only a couple of species of Fargesia have been available. F. nitida and F. murieliae, both of which flowered and subsequently died within a 5-year period.
Cold Hardy Bamboo Plant Options
Today, there are a number of hardy bamboo varieties in the genus Fargesia that have the highest cold tolerance for bamboo plant cultivars. These cold tolerant bamboos create gorgeous evergreen hedges in shade to partial shaded locations. Fargesia bamboos grow to a height of 8-16 feet tall, depending upon the variety and are all clumping bamboos that do no spread more that 4-6 inches per year. They will grow almost anywhere in the United States, including the southern to southeast climactic zones where it is very hot and humid. F. denudate is an example of these cold weather bamboos that has an arching habit and is not only cold tolerant, but tolerates heat and humidity as well. It is suitable to USDA zone 5-9. F. robusta (or ‘Pingwu’) is an upright bamboo with a clumping habit and, like the previous bamboo, handles the heat and humidity of the Southeastern United States. ‘Pingwu’ will do well in USDA zones 6-9. F. rufa ‘Oprins Selection’ (or Green Panda), is another clumping, cold hardy and heat tolerant bamboo. It grows to 10 feet and is hardy to USDA zones 5-9. This is the bamboo that is the favorite food of the giant panda and will grow well in most any environment. A newer varietal, F. scabrida (or Asian Wonder) has narrow leaves with orange culm sheaths and steel-blue stems when young that mature to an olive green. A good selection for USDA zones 5-8. With these new varieties of cold hardy bamboos, everyone can bring a little piece of paradise into their home garden.
About Cold Hardy Bamboo Varieties
Bamboo, in general, is a fast-growing evergreen. They are two ilks: Leptomorph and Pachymorph. Leptomorph bamboos have monopodial running rhizomes and spread vigorously. They need to be managed and, if not, are known to grow rampantly and willfully. Pachymorph refers to those bamboos that have sympodial clumping roots. The genus Fargesia is an example of a pachymorph or clumping variety that is also a cold tolerant bamboo variety. The hardy bamboo varieties of Fargesia are native understory plants found in the mountains of China under pines and along streams. Until recently, only a couple of species of Fargesia have been available. F. nitida and F. murieliae, both of which flowered and subsequently died within a 5-year period.
Cold Hardy Bamboo Plant Options
Today, there are a number of hardy bamboo varieties in the genus Fargesia that have the highest cold tolerance for bamboo plant cultivars. These cold tolerant bamboos create gorgeous evergreen hedges in shade to partial shaded locations. Fargesia bamboos grow to a height of 8-16 feet tall, depending upon the variety and are all clumping bamboos that do no spread more that 4-6 inches per year. They will grow almost anywhere in the United States, including the southern to southeast climactic zones where it is very hot and humid. F. denudate is an example of these cold weather bamboos that has an arching habit and is not only cold tolerant, but tolerates heat and humidity as well. It is suitable to USDA zone 5-9. F. robusta (or ‘Pingwu’) is an upright bamboo with a clumping habit and, like the previous bamboo, handles the heat and humidity of the Southeastern United States. ‘Pingwu’ will do well in USDA zones 6-9. F. rufa ‘Oprins Selection’ (or Green Panda), is another clumping, cold hardy and heat tolerant bamboo. It grows to 10 feet and is hardy to USDA zones 5-9. This is the bamboo that is the favorite food of the giant panda and will grow well in most any environment. A newer varietal, F. scabrida (or Asian Wonder) has narrow leaves with orange culm sheaths and steel-blue stems when young that mature to an olive green. A good selection for USDA zones 5-8. With these new varieties of cold hardy bamboos, everyone can bring a little piece of paradise into their home garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
There are over one thousand species of bamboo. Some are majestic giants soaring to over one-hundred feet in the air. Others are shrub-like, growing only three feet tall. Bamboo plants belong to the grass family. They are more closely related to turf grass than they are to a tree. Most bamboos hail from the tropics, but there are also many temperate bamboos. A few can even survive freezing mountain temperatures. While these plants are generally hardy, when bamboo leaves are yellow, this could signal an issue. Read on to learn more.
Yellowing Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is a popular ornamental and edible plant. Many homeowners and gardeners plant bamboo because it can screen out unwanted views or create a private space. Bamboo is fast growing and spreads quickly. Like all ornamental plants, bamboo has certain requirements to stay healthy. True bamboo has hollow stems and bright green leaves. If your bamboo leaves are yellow, this could be a sign that your plant is failing.
How to Treat Yellow Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is an evergreen plant. All evergreen plants lose their leaves, but they don’t lose them all at once like their deciduous friends. Some yellowing bamboo leaves and dropping bamboo leaves are normal processes throughout the year. There will be a bit more leaf loss in the spring. So if just a few of your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, this is probably normal attrition. If large parts or all of your bamboo is turning yellow, however, then you most likely have a problem. Problematic yellowing bamboo leaves can be due to low soil nutrients, boggy soil or overwatering, lack of water, or stressful growing situations. If you want help for yellow bamboo leaves, check the soil regularly. Bamboo needs good drainage. If the soil is mucky and boggy, then you are overwatering or the bamboo is planted in the wrong spot. Reduce irrigation. If your soil is really dry, then you need to increase your irrigation run time and/or frequency. Bamboo likes a lot of water and is not a drought tolerant plant. Remember that bamboo plants spread wider and wider each year. You will need to adapt your irrigation set-up as the bamboo grows. Allow the bamboo leaf litter to stay on the ground rather than rake it up. This helps hold moisture in the soil. Bamboo plants like acidic, rich, loamy soil. Bamboo will benefit from regular, yearly applications of organic compost. Organic compost provides a variety of soil nutrients at a modest rate. It also helps hold soil nutrients for your bamboo plants to use and opens up heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well. Stressful growing situations for your bamboo plants could mean the site is too windy, too hot, too dry, or too polluted. If you have one of these situations, you may need to mitigate it by growing a windbreak, adding more irrigation water or reducing nearby applications of chemical pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers. Growing bamboo is fun and easy. One of the most exciting aspects of growing bamboo is to witness how quickly it grows. If your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, try some of these suggestions to get your bamboo back on track.
Yellowing Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is a popular ornamental and edible plant. Many homeowners and gardeners plant bamboo because it can screen out unwanted views or create a private space. Bamboo is fast growing and spreads quickly. Like all ornamental plants, bamboo has certain requirements to stay healthy. True bamboo has hollow stems and bright green leaves. If your bamboo leaves are yellow, this could be a sign that your plant is failing.
How to Treat Yellow Bamboo Leaves
Bamboo is an evergreen plant. All evergreen plants lose their leaves, but they don’t lose them all at once like their deciduous friends. Some yellowing bamboo leaves and dropping bamboo leaves are normal processes throughout the year. There will be a bit more leaf loss in the spring. So if just a few of your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, this is probably normal attrition. If large parts or all of your bamboo is turning yellow, however, then you most likely have a problem. Problematic yellowing bamboo leaves can be due to low soil nutrients, boggy soil or overwatering, lack of water, or stressful growing situations. If you want help for yellow bamboo leaves, check the soil regularly. Bamboo needs good drainage. If the soil is mucky and boggy, then you are overwatering or the bamboo is planted in the wrong spot. Reduce irrigation. If your soil is really dry, then you need to increase your irrigation run time and/or frequency. Bamboo likes a lot of water and is not a drought tolerant plant. Remember that bamboo plants spread wider and wider each year. You will need to adapt your irrigation set-up as the bamboo grows. Allow the bamboo leaf litter to stay on the ground rather than rake it up. This helps hold moisture in the soil. Bamboo plants like acidic, rich, loamy soil. Bamboo will benefit from regular, yearly applications of organic compost. Organic compost provides a variety of soil nutrients at a modest rate. It also helps hold soil nutrients for your bamboo plants to use and opens up heavy clay soil that doesn’t drain well. Stressful growing situations for your bamboo plants could mean the site is too windy, too hot, too dry, or too polluted. If you have one of these situations, you may need to mitigate it by growing a windbreak, adding more irrigation water or reducing nearby applications of chemical pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers. Growing bamboo is fun and easy. One of the most exciting aspects of growing bamboo is to witness how quickly it grows. If your bamboo stems and leaves are turning yellow, try some of these suggestions to get your bamboo back on track.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Also known as Japanese shield fern or Japanese wood fern, autumn fern (Dryopteris erythrosora) is a hardy plant suitable for growing as far north as USDA hardiness zone 5. Autumn ferns in the garden offer beauty throughout the growing season, emerging coppery red in spring, eventually maturing to a bright, glossy, kelly green by summer. Read on to learn how to grow autumn ferns.
Autumn Fern Info and Growing
Like all ferns, the autumn fern produces no seeds and no flowers are required. Thus, ferns are strictly foliage plants. This ancient woodland plant thrives in partial or full shade and moist, rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. However, autumn fern can tolerate short periods of afternoon sunlight, but won’t perform well in intense heat or prolonged sunlight. Is autumn fern invasive? Although autumn fern is a non-native plant, it is not known to be invasive, and growing autumn ferns in gardens couldn’t be easier. Adding a few inches of compost, peat moss or leaf mold to the soil at planting time will improve growing conditions and get the fern off to a healthy start. Once established, autumn fern care is minimal. Basically, just provide water as needed so the soil never becomes bone dry, but be careful not to overwater. Although fertilizer isn’t an absolute necessity and too much will damage the plant, autumn fern benefits from a light application of slow-release fertilizer just after growth appears in spring. Keep in mind that autumn fern is a naturally slow-growing plant. Fall is a good time to apply an inch or two of compost or mulch, which will protect the roots from possible damage caused by freezing and thawing. Apply a fresh layer in spring. Autumn fern tends to be disease resistant, although the plant may rot in soggy, poorly-drained soil. Pests are rarely a problem, with the exception of possible damage from slugs.
Autumn Fern Info and Growing
Like all ferns, the autumn fern produces no seeds and no flowers are required. Thus, ferns are strictly foliage plants. This ancient woodland plant thrives in partial or full shade and moist, rich, well-drained, slightly acidic soil. However, autumn fern can tolerate short periods of afternoon sunlight, but won’t perform well in intense heat or prolonged sunlight. Is autumn fern invasive? Although autumn fern is a non-native plant, it is not known to be invasive, and growing autumn ferns in gardens couldn’t be easier. Adding a few inches of compost, peat moss or leaf mold to the soil at planting time will improve growing conditions and get the fern off to a healthy start. Once established, autumn fern care is minimal. Basically, just provide water as needed so the soil never becomes bone dry, but be careful not to overwater. Although fertilizer isn’t an absolute necessity and too much will damage the plant, autumn fern benefits from a light application of slow-release fertilizer just after growth appears in spring. Keep in mind that autumn fern is a naturally slow-growing plant. Fall is a good time to apply an inch or two of compost or mulch, which will protect the roots from possible damage caused by freezing and thawing. Apply a fresh layer in spring. Autumn fern tends to be disease resistant, although the plant may rot in soggy, poorly-drained soil. Pests are rarely a problem, with the exception of possible damage from slugs.
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