文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Popular in Asian cuisine, lemongrass is a very low maintenance plant that can be grown outdoors in USDA zone 9 and above, and in an indoor/outdoor container in colder zones. It’s fast growing though, and can get a little unruly if not pruned back regularly. Keep reading to learn more about how to cut back lemongrass.
How to Cut Back Lemongrass Plants
If given plenty of sun, water, and fertilizer, lemongrass can grow to as big as 6 feet (1.8 m.) high and 4 feet (1.2 m.) wide. Pruning lemongrass plants is a good idea for keeping them a manageable size as well as encouraging new growth.
Cutting lemongrass stalks for cooking will keep the plant somewhat in check, but lemongrass grows so quickly that extra pruning is often necessary. The best time for trimming lemongrass is early spring, when the plant is still dormant. If your lemongrass has been left untended for a while, it has probably accumulated some dead material. The first thing to do is get rid of that.
Rake away anything that’s unattached underneath, then pull out any dead stalks that are still in the ground. These are probably mostly around the outside of the plant. Once all that remains of your plant is green, you can cut down the tops of the stalks to make it a more manageable size. Lemongrass is very forgiving and can be cut back quite drastically. Cut it down to as little as 3 feet (.9 m.) high and prune it regularly to keep it that size if you so desire.
Pruning Lemongrass in Colder Climates
If you live in a colder climate, your lemongrass may go dormant over the winter, with all of its leaves turning brown. If this is the case, wait until early spring for lemongrass pruning and cut all the leaves away, right down to the tender white part of the stalk. This may look extreme when you do it, but before long, fresh growth should come in to replace all that lost material.
How to Cut Back Lemongrass Plants
If given plenty of sun, water, and fertilizer, lemongrass can grow to as big as 6 feet (1.8 m.) high and 4 feet (1.2 m.) wide. Pruning lemongrass plants is a good idea for keeping them a manageable size as well as encouraging new growth.
Cutting lemongrass stalks for cooking will keep the plant somewhat in check, but lemongrass grows so quickly that extra pruning is often necessary. The best time for trimming lemongrass is early spring, when the plant is still dormant. If your lemongrass has been left untended for a while, it has probably accumulated some dead material. The first thing to do is get rid of that.
Rake away anything that’s unattached underneath, then pull out any dead stalks that are still in the ground. These are probably mostly around the outside of the plant. Once all that remains of your plant is green, you can cut down the tops of the stalks to make it a more manageable size. Lemongrass is very forgiving and can be cut back quite drastically. Cut it down to as little as 3 feet (.9 m.) high and prune it regularly to keep it that size if you so desire.
Pruning Lemongrass in Colder Climates
If you live in a colder climate, your lemongrass may go dormant over the winter, with all of its leaves turning brown. If this is the case, wait until early spring for lemongrass pruning and cut all the leaves away, right down to the tender white part of the stalk. This may look extreme when you do it, but before long, fresh growth should come in to replace all that lost material.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemongrass can be treated as an annual, but it can also be grown very successfully in pots that are brought indoors for the colder months. The one problem with growing lemongrass in containers, however, is that it spreads quickly and will have to be divided and repotted frequently. Keep reading to learn more about how to repot lemongrass.
Repotting Lemongrass
Lemongrass is a great plant to have on hand if you like to cook Asian cuisine. The plant is hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11. In those zones, it can be grown in the garden, but in colder climates it won’t survive the winter and should be grown in a container. Potted lemongrass plants require repotting at some point.
The best time to repot a lemongrass plant is in the fall. By this time, the plant will have finished growing for the year, and it will be time to move your pot indoors before the temperatures drop below 40 F. (4 C.). When you move your lemongrass indoors, place it in a sunny window. If you suddenly find yourself with more lemongrass than window space, give it away to friends. They’ll be grateful, and you’ll have plenty more next summer.
Lemongrass grows best in a container that’s about 8 inches across and 8 inches deep. Since it can grow much larger than that, it’s a good idea to divide and repot a lemongrass plant once every year or two. Lemongrass repotting is not at all difficult. Simply tilt the pot on its side and pull the root ball out. If the plant is especially root bound, you may have to really work at it and there’s a chance you’ll have to break the container. Once the plant is out, use a trowel or a serrated knife to divide the root ball into two or three sections. Make sure each section has at least some grass attached to it. Prepare a new 8-inch pot for each new section. Make sure each pot has at least one drainage hole.
Fill the bottom third of the pot with growing medium (regular potting soil is fine) and place one of the lemongrass sections on top of it so the top of the root ball is an inch below the rim of the pot. You may have to adjust the level of the soil to do this. Fill the rest of the pot in with soil and water thoroughly. Repeat these steps for each section and place them in a sunny spot.
Repotting Lemongrass
Lemongrass is a great plant to have on hand if you like to cook Asian cuisine. The plant is hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11. In those zones, it can be grown in the garden, but in colder climates it won’t survive the winter and should be grown in a container. Potted lemongrass plants require repotting at some point.
The best time to repot a lemongrass plant is in the fall. By this time, the plant will have finished growing for the year, and it will be time to move your pot indoors before the temperatures drop below 40 F. (4 C.). When you move your lemongrass indoors, place it in a sunny window. If you suddenly find yourself with more lemongrass than window space, give it away to friends. They’ll be grateful, and you’ll have plenty more next summer.
Lemongrass grows best in a container that’s about 8 inches across and 8 inches deep. Since it can grow much larger than that, it’s a good idea to divide and repot a lemongrass plant once every year or two. Lemongrass repotting is not at all difficult. Simply tilt the pot on its side and pull the root ball out. If the plant is especially root bound, you may have to really work at it and there’s a chance you’ll have to break the container. Once the plant is out, use a trowel or a serrated knife to divide the root ball into two or three sections. Make sure each section has at least some grass attached to it. Prepare a new 8-inch pot for each new section. Make sure each pot has at least one drainage hole.
Fill the bottom third of the pot with growing medium (regular potting soil is fine) and place one of the lemongrass sections on top of it so the top of the root ball is an inch below the rim of the pot. You may have to adjust the level of the soil to do this. Fill the rest of the pot in with soil and water thoroughly. Repeat these steps for each section and place them in a sunny spot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Companion planting is a centuries-old technique that by locating various plants in close proximity, creates conditions that enhance growing conditions by repelling pests, attracting pollinators, and making the best use of available space. When it comes to companion plants for dill, most of the following suggestions have not been tested in scientific labs, but are highly recommended by experienced gardeners – often by trial and error.
Plants That Grow Near Dill
If you’re wondering what to plant with dill, experiment and see what works best in your garden. Here are some suggested dill companion plants – and a few things that AREN’T believed to be good dill plant companions.
Dill is a good neighbor and a useful plant, valued for its ability to draw beneficial insects to the garden such as:
Hoverflies
Parasitic wasps
Ladybugs
Praying mantis
Honeybees
Butterflies
Dill also does a good at discouraging various unwanted pests, including cabbage loopers, aphids and spider mites.
Asparagus
Corn
Cucumbers
Onion
Lettuce
Vegetables in the cabbage family (Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, broccoli, etc.)
Basil
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Other poor dill companion plants include:
Peppers
Potatoes
Eggplant
Cilantro
Lavender
Results are mixed when it comes to planting dill near tomatoes. Young dill plants attract pollinators, repel certain tomato enemies, and tend to benefit tomato health and growth. However, many gardeners have observed that when mature, dill plants stunt the growth of tomato plants. The answer to this quandary is to prune dill every week so the plant doesn’t bloom. If you want dill to bloom, leave it in place while both plants are young, then relocate dill to another area of your garden before it flowers.
Plants That Grow Near Dill
If you’re wondering what to plant with dill, experiment and see what works best in your garden. Here are some suggested dill companion plants – and a few things that AREN’T believed to be good dill plant companions.
Dill is a good neighbor and a useful plant, valued for its ability to draw beneficial insects to the garden such as:
Hoverflies
Parasitic wasps
Ladybugs
Praying mantis
Honeybees
Butterflies
Dill also does a good at discouraging various unwanted pests, including cabbage loopers, aphids and spider mites.
Asparagus
Corn
Cucumbers
Onion
Lettuce
Vegetables in the cabbage family (Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi, broccoli, etc.)
Basil
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Combinations to Avoid
Experienced gardeners warn against planting dill next to carrots. Why? The two are actually members of the same plant family and can easily cross-pollinate. Dill may also stunt the growth of nearby carrots.
Other poor dill companion plants include:
Peppers
Potatoes
Eggplant
Cilantro
Lavender
Results are mixed when it comes to planting dill near tomatoes. Young dill plants attract pollinators, repel certain tomato enemies, and tend to benefit tomato health and growth. However, many gardeners have observed that when mature, dill plants stunt the growth of tomato plants. The answer to this quandary is to prune dill every week so the plant doesn’t bloom. If you want dill to bloom, leave it in place while both plants are young, then relocate dill to another area of your garden before it flowers.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill is a popular herb in the kitchen, flavoring everything from pickles to fish. Gourmets know that you can’t beat fresh dill for the flavor. The best way to have the very freshest dill possible is by growing dill in your own garden. Let’s look at how to grow dill.
Planting Dill Seed
The best way how to grow dill is directly from seeds rather than from a transplant. Planting dill seed is easy. Dill planting is simply done by scattering the seeds in the desired location after the last frost, then lightly cover the seeds with soil. Water the area thoroughly.
Care of Dill Weed Plants
Growing dill plants and caring for dill plants is also very easy. Dill weed plants grow best in full sun. Other than this, dill will grow happily in both poor and rich soil or in damp or dry conditions.
Harvesting Dill Weed Plants
One of the benefits of growing dill is that both the leaves and seeds of dill weed plants are edible. To harvest the dill leaves, regularly trim off the desired amount of leaves you need for cooking. If you wish to harvest dill seeds, allow the plant to grow without trimming until it goes into bloom. Once dill weed plants go into bloom, they’ll stop growing leaves, so make sure that you don’t harvest any leaves from that plant. The dill flower will fade and will develop the seed pods. When the seed pods have turned brown, cut the whole flower head off and place in a paper bag. Gently shake the bag. The seeds will fall out of the flower head and seed pods and you’ll be able to separate the seeds from the waste.
There are many recipes that use dill. Planting this herb in your garden will keep plenty of fresh dill on hand for all of these recipes. Now that you know how to grow dill, you have no reason not to be planting dill seed out this year.
Planting Dill Seed
The best way how to grow dill is directly from seeds rather than from a transplant. Planting dill seed is easy. Dill planting is simply done by scattering the seeds in the desired location after the last frost, then lightly cover the seeds with soil. Water the area thoroughly.
Care of Dill Weed Plants
Growing dill plants and caring for dill plants is also very easy. Dill weed plants grow best in full sun. Other than this, dill will grow happily in both poor and rich soil or in damp or dry conditions.
Harvesting Dill Weed Plants
One of the benefits of growing dill is that both the leaves and seeds of dill weed plants are edible. To harvest the dill leaves, regularly trim off the desired amount of leaves you need for cooking. If you wish to harvest dill seeds, allow the plant to grow without trimming until it goes into bloom. Once dill weed plants go into bloom, they’ll stop growing leaves, so make sure that you don’t harvest any leaves from that plant. The dill flower will fade and will develop the seed pods. When the seed pods have turned brown, cut the whole flower head off and place in a paper bag. Gently shake the bag. The seeds will fall out of the flower head and seed pods and you’ll be able to separate the seeds from the waste.
There are many recipes that use dill. Planting this herb in your garden will keep plenty of fresh dill on hand for all of these recipes. Now that you know how to grow dill, you have no reason not to be planting dill seed out this year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Cotton growing with kids is easy and most will find this to be a fun project in addition to an educational one, especially once the finished product is harvested. Let’s learn more about how to grow cotton both indoors and out.
Cotton Plant Info
While cotton (Gossypium) has been around for a long time and grown mainly for its fibers, cotton growing with kids can be a fun learning experience. Not only will they get a chance to learn some cotton plant info, but they will love the fluffy, white product of all their labor. You can take the lesson further by exploring how your harvested cotton gets processed to make the clothes we wear. Cotton is a warm climate plant. It cannot tolerate temperatures cooler than 60°F. (15 C.). If you live in a cooler climate, it is better to start the plant indoors and then transplant it out once the temps have warmed up. Cotton is also self-pollinating, so you don’t need a lot of plants.
How to Grow Cotton Outdoors
Cotton is planted outdoors in spring once the threat of frost has passed. Check the soil temperature with a soil thermometer to ensure that it is at least 60 degrees F. six inches down. Keep checking this for a three-day period every morning. Once the soil maintains this temperature, you can work the soil, adding an inch or so of compost to it. Compost is a great source of nitrogen, potassium, and trace minerals necessary for strong plant growth. Help your child create a furrow with a garden hoe. Moisten the soil. Plant your cotton seeds in groups of three, one inch deep and four inches apart. Cover and firm the soil. Within a couple weeks, the seeds should begin to sprout. Under optimal conditions, they will sprout within a week but temps under 60 degrees F. will prevent or delay germination.
Growing Cotton Plants Indoors
Planting cotton seeds indoors is also possible, keeping temperatures over 60 degrees F. (which shouldn’t be difficult in the house). Pre-moisten potting soil and mix this with healthy soil from the garden. Cut the top from a ½ gallon milk jug and add some drainage holes in the bottom (You can also use any 4-6 inch pot of your choosing). Fill this container with the potting mix, leaving a space of about two inches or so from the top. Place about three cotton seeds on top of the soil and then cover with another inch or so of potting mix. Place in sunlight and keep moist, adding water as needed so the upper portion of soil does not get too dry. You should begin to see sprouts within 7-10 days. Once the seedlings have sprouted, you can thoroughly water the plants each week as part of your cotton plant care. Also, rotate the pot so the cotton seedlings grow uniformly. Transplant the strongest seedling to a larger container or outdoors, making sure to provide at least 4-5 hours of sunlight.
Cotton Plant Care
You will need to keep the plants watered throughout the summer months as part of optimal cotton plant care. At around four to five weeks, the plants will begin branching. By eight weeks you should start to notice the first squares, after which blooming soon follows. Once the creamy, white flowers have been pollinated, they will turn pink. At this point the plants will begin producing a boll (which becomes the ‘cotton ball.’). It is crucial that water be given during this entire process to ensure adequate growth and production. Cotton is ready for harvesting once all of the bolls have cracked open and looks like a fluffy ball. This normally occurs within four months of planting. The growing cotton plants will naturally dry up and shed their leaves just prior to the bolls cracking. Be sure to wear some glove when harvesting cotton from your plants to protect your little one’s hands from getting cut. Your harvested cotton can be dried and the seeds saved for planting again next year.
Cotton Plant Info
While cotton (Gossypium) has been around for a long time and grown mainly for its fibers, cotton growing with kids can be a fun learning experience. Not only will they get a chance to learn some cotton plant info, but they will love the fluffy, white product of all their labor. You can take the lesson further by exploring how your harvested cotton gets processed to make the clothes we wear. Cotton is a warm climate plant. It cannot tolerate temperatures cooler than 60°F. (15 C.). If you live in a cooler climate, it is better to start the plant indoors and then transplant it out once the temps have warmed up. Cotton is also self-pollinating, so you don’t need a lot of plants.
How to Grow Cotton Outdoors
Cotton is planted outdoors in spring once the threat of frost has passed. Check the soil temperature with a soil thermometer to ensure that it is at least 60 degrees F. six inches down. Keep checking this for a three-day period every morning. Once the soil maintains this temperature, you can work the soil, adding an inch or so of compost to it. Compost is a great source of nitrogen, potassium, and trace minerals necessary for strong plant growth. Help your child create a furrow with a garden hoe. Moisten the soil. Plant your cotton seeds in groups of three, one inch deep and four inches apart. Cover and firm the soil. Within a couple weeks, the seeds should begin to sprout. Under optimal conditions, they will sprout within a week but temps under 60 degrees F. will prevent or delay germination.
Growing Cotton Plants Indoors
Planting cotton seeds indoors is also possible, keeping temperatures over 60 degrees F. (which shouldn’t be difficult in the house). Pre-moisten potting soil and mix this with healthy soil from the garden. Cut the top from a ½ gallon milk jug and add some drainage holes in the bottom (You can also use any 4-6 inch pot of your choosing). Fill this container with the potting mix, leaving a space of about two inches or so from the top. Place about three cotton seeds on top of the soil and then cover with another inch or so of potting mix. Place in sunlight and keep moist, adding water as needed so the upper portion of soil does not get too dry. You should begin to see sprouts within 7-10 days. Once the seedlings have sprouted, you can thoroughly water the plants each week as part of your cotton plant care. Also, rotate the pot so the cotton seedlings grow uniformly. Transplant the strongest seedling to a larger container or outdoors, making sure to provide at least 4-5 hours of sunlight.
Cotton Plant Care
You will need to keep the plants watered throughout the summer months as part of optimal cotton plant care. At around four to five weeks, the plants will begin branching. By eight weeks you should start to notice the first squares, after which blooming soon follows. Once the creamy, white flowers have been pollinated, they will turn pink. At this point the plants will begin producing a boll (which becomes the ‘cotton ball.’). It is crucial that water be given during this entire process to ensure adequate growth and production. Cotton is ready for harvesting once all of the bolls have cracked open and looks like a fluffy ball. This normally occurs within four months of planting. The growing cotton plants will naturally dry up and shed their leaves just prior to the bolls cracking. Be sure to wear some glove when harvesting cotton from your plants to protect your little one’s hands from getting cut. Your harvested cotton can be dried and the seeds saved for planting again next year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Looking for something unusual to add to your garden? Have I got an extraordinary beauty for you – black cotton plants. Related to the white cotton one thinks of as growing in the South, black cotton plants are also of the genus Gossypium in the Malvaceae (or mallow) family, which includes hollyhock, okra and hibiscus. Intrigued? Read on to find tips on how to grow black cotton, harvest the plant and other care information.
Planting Black Cotton
Black cotton is an herbaceous perennial that is native to sub-Saharan Africa and into Arabia. Like its white cotton plant relative, black cotton (Gossypium herbaceum ‘Nigra’) care requires plenty of sunshine and warm temperatures to produce cotton. Unlike regular cotton, this plant has both leaves and bolls that are dark burgundy/black with pink/burgundy blooms. The cotton itself, however, is white. Plants will grow 24-30 inches in height and 18-24 inches across.
How to Grow Black Cotton
Black cotton specimens are sold at some online nurseries. If you can acquire the seeds, plant 2-3 in a 4-inch peat pot to a depth of ½ to 1 inch. Put the pot in a sunny location and keep the seeds warm (65-68 degrees F. or 18-20 C.). Keep the growing medium slightly damp. Once the seeds germinate, thin out the weakest, keeping only one strong seedling per pot. As the seedling outgrows the pot, cut the bottom out of the peat pot and transplant into a 12-inch diameter pot. Fill in around the seedling with a loam-based potting mix, not a peat based. Put the black cotton outside on days when the temps are over 65 degrees F. (18 C.) and with no rain. As the temps cool, bring the plant back inside. Continue hardening off in this manner for a week or so. Once the plant has matured, black cotton can be grown in either full sun to partial sun.
Black Cotton Care
Planting black cotton in the northern states will undoubtedly require either growing it indoors, or depending upon your region, at the very least protecting it from wind and rain. Do not overwater the plant. Water 2-3 times per week at the base of the plant. Feed with a liquid plant fertilizer that is high in potassium, or use a tomato or rose food per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Harvesting Black Cotton
Large yellow flowers appear in the late spring to late summer followed by the gorgeous burgundy bolls. The eye-catching bolls are lovely dried and added to flower arrangements, or you can harvest the cotton the old-fashioned way. When the flowers wither, the boll forms and, as it matures, cracks open to reveal the fluffy white cotton. Just grasp the cotton with a forefinger and your thumb and gently twist out. Voila! You’ve grown cotton.
Planting Black Cotton
Black cotton is an herbaceous perennial that is native to sub-Saharan Africa and into Arabia. Like its white cotton plant relative, black cotton (Gossypium herbaceum ‘Nigra’) care requires plenty of sunshine and warm temperatures to produce cotton. Unlike regular cotton, this plant has both leaves and bolls that are dark burgundy/black with pink/burgundy blooms. The cotton itself, however, is white. Plants will grow 24-30 inches in height and 18-24 inches across.
How to Grow Black Cotton
Black cotton specimens are sold at some online nurseries. If you can acquire the seeds, plant 2-3 in a 4-inch peat pot to a depth of ½ to 1 inch. Put the pot in a sunny location and keep the seeds warm (65-68 degrees F. or 18-20 C.). Keep the growing medium slightly damp. Once the seeds germinate, thin out the weakest, keeping only one strong seedling per pot. As the seedling outgrows the pot, cut the bottom out of the peat pot and transplant into a 12-inch diameter pot. Fill in around the seedling with a loam-based potting mix, not a peat based. Put the black cotton outside on days when the temps are over 65 degrees F. (18 C.) and with no rain. As the temps cool, bring the plant back inside. Continue hardening off in this manner for a week or so. Once the plant has matured, black cotton can be grown in either full sun to partial sun.
Black Cotton Care
Planting black cotton in the northern states will undoubtedly require either growing it indoors, or depending upon your region, at the very least protecting it from wind and rain. Do not overwater the plant. Water 2-3 times per week at the base of the plant. Feed with a liquid plant fertilizer that is high in potassium, or use a tomato or rose food per the manufacturer’s instructions.
Harvesting Black Cotton
Large yellow flowers appear in the late spring to late summer followed by the gorgeous burgundy bolls. The eye-catching bolls are lovely dried and added to flower arrangements, or you can harvest the cotton the old-fashioned way. When the flowers wither, the boll forms and, as it matures, cracks open to reveal the fluffy white cotton. Just grasp the cotton with a forefinger and your thumb and gently twist out. Voila! You’ve grown cotton.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Cotton plants have flowers that resemble hibiscus and seed pods that you can use in dried arrangements. Your neighbors will ask about this attractive and unique garden plant, and they won’t believe it when you tell them what you’re growing. Find out how to sow cotton seeds in this article.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
Cotton Seed Planting
Before you begin, you should know that it is illegal to grow cotton in your garden if you live in a state where it’s grown commercially. That’s because of the boll weevil eradication programs, which require the growers to use traps that the programs monitor. The eradication zone runs from Virginia to Texas and as far west as Missouri. Call your Cooperative Extension Service if you aren’t sure whether you are in the zone.
Cotton Seed Placement
Plant cotton seeds in a location with loose, rich soil where the plants will receive at least four or five hours of direct sunlight every day. You can grow it in a container, but the container must be at least 36 inches deep. It helps to work an inch or so of compost into the soil before planting. Putting them in the ground too soon slows germination. Wait until temperatures are consistently above 60 degrees F. (15 C.). It takes 65 to 75 days of temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for cotton to go from seed to flower. The plants need an additional 50 days after the flowers bloom for the seed pods to mature. Gardeners sowing cotton seeds in cool climates may find that they can bring the plants to flower, but don’t have enough time remaining to watch the seed pods mature.
How to Plant a Cotton Seed
Sow the seeds when the soil temperature is close to 60 degrees F. (15 C.) first thing in the morning for several consecutive days. If the soil is too cool, the seeds will rot. Plant the seeds in groups of 3, spacing them 4 inches apart. Cover them with about an inch of soil. Water the soil so that the moisture penetrates to a depth of at least six inches. You shouldn’t have to water again until seedlings emerge. Gardeners new to planting cotton may wonder which way to plant cotton seeds; in other words, which way is up or down. The root will emerge from the tip of the seed, but you don’t have to concern yourself with placing the seed in the soil just so. No matter how you plant it, the seed will sort itself out.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Many people are trying their hand at growing crops that are traditionally grown by commercial farmers. One such crop is cotton. While commercial cotton crops are harvested by mechanical harvesters, harvesting cotton by hand is the more logical and economical course of action for the small home grower. Of course, you need to know not only about picking ornamental cotton but when to harvest your homegrown cotton. Read on to find out about cotton harvest time.
Cotton Harvest Time
Many folks today are trying their hand at some of the “old-time” homestead crops our ancestors used to grow. Gardeners growing small plots of cotton today may be interested in learning about not only picking ornamental cotton but in carding, spinning and dying their own fibers. Maybe they’re doing it for fun or are concerned about creating an organic product from start to finish.
Whatever the reason, harvesting cotton by hand requires some work, the good old-fashioned, back breaking, sweating type of work. Or at least that’s what I’ve been led to believe after reading accounts of actual cotton pickers who put in 12-15 hour days in 110 F. (43 C.) heat, dragging a bag weighing 60-70 pounds – some even more than that. Since we are of the 21st century and used to every convenience, I’m guessing no one is going to try to break any records, or their back. Still, there is some work involved when picking cotton.
When to Harvest Cotton
Cotton harvesting starts in July in the southern states and may extend into November in the north and will be ready to harvest over time for about 6 weeks. You will know when the cotton is ready to be picked when the bolls crack open and the fluffy white cotton is exposed. Before you begin to harvest your homegrown cotton, arm yourself appropriately with a thick pair of gloves. The cotton bolls are sharp and likely to shred tender skin. To pick the cotton from the bolls, simply grasp the cotton ball at the base and twist it out of the boll. As you pick, crop the cotton into a bag as you go. Cotton isn’t ready to harvest all at one time, so leave any cotton that isn’t ready to harvest for another day.
Once you have harvested all the mature cotton, spread it out in a cool, dark area with plenty of air circulation to dry. Once the cotton is dry, separate the cotton seeds from the cotton by hand. Now you’re ready to use your cotton. It can be used to stuff pillows or toys, or dyed and carded and spun into fiber ready to weave. You can also replant the seeds for another harvest.
Cotton Harvest Time
Many folks today are trying their hand at some of the “old-time” homestead crops our ancestors used to grow. Gardeners growing small plots of cotton today may be interested in learning about not only picking ornamental cotton but in carding, spinning and dying their own fibers. Maybe they’re doing it for fun or are concerned about creating an organic product from start to finish.
Whatever the reason, harvesting cotton by hand requires some work, the good old-fashioned, back breaking, sweating type of work. Or at least that’s what I’ve been led to believe after reading accounts of actual cotton pickers who put in 12-15 hour days in 110 F. (43 C.) heat, dragging a bag weighing 60-70 pounds – some even more than that. Since we are of the 21st century and used to every convenience, I’m guessing no one is going to try to break any records, or their back. Still, there is some work involved when picking cotton.
When to Harvest Cotton
Cotton harvesting starts in July in the southern states and may extend into November in the north and will be ready to harvest over time for about 6 weeks. You will know when the cotton is ready to be picked when the bolls crack open and the fluffy white cotton is exposed. Before you begin to harvest your homegrown cotton, arm yourself appropriately with a thick pair of gloves. The cotton bolls are sharp and likely to shred tender skin. To pick the cotton from the bolls, simply grasp the cotton ball at the base and twist it out of the boll. As you pick, crop the cotton into a bag as you go. Cotton isn’t ready to harvest all at one time, so leave any cotton that isn’t ready to harvest for another day.
Once you have harvested all the mature cotton, spread it out in a cool, dark area with plenty of air circulation to dry. Once the cotton is dry, separate the cotton seeds from the cotton by hand. Now you’re ready to use your cotton. It can be used to stuff pillows or toys, or dyed and carded and spun into fiber ready to weave. You can also replant the seeds for another harvest.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Growing comfrey plants in the garden can offer a wide variety of uses. Attractive and beneficial, this plant will add something extra to your medicinal herb arsenal. Let’s learn more about growing this herb in the garden and which comfrey uses are generally employed.
What is Comfrey?
Symphytum officinale, or comfrey herb plant, has a long history of use as a medicinal herb but not as a culinary plant. Otherwise known as knitbone or slippery root, comfrey plants have been used medicinally since 400 BC to stop heavy bleeding and to treat bronchial issues. From the family Boraginaceae, comfrey is a perennial herb with a spreading habit that attains a height of up to 4 feet. This plant is native to Europe and Asia where is thrives in moist, shady locations and bears ½-inch long flowers in May. The leaves of the comfrey are deep green in color, hairy and 10 inches or so in length.
Growing Comfrey Plants
Growing comfrey plants requires a climate in hardiness zone USDA 3-9 (although some ornamental varieties are only hardy to zone 5) with rich, moist, alkaline soil (pH of 6.7-7.3). Comfrey plants generally prefer shade to part shade exposures in warm moist soil, although some cultivars require full sunlight to attain highest yields. There are some aggressive species and many self-sow readily. Propagation can be done via seed, division or separation. Sow comfrey seeds in fall or early spring directly in the garden or in a cold frame, and pot seedlings to be over wintered inside. Division of comfrey herb plants may occur at any time; however, spring is suggested. Divide by cutting off 3 inches of root below the soil level and then plant directly into a pot or another area of the garden. As comfrey can be an aggressive spreader, you may want to plant within a physical barrier and deadhead flowers to rein in its spreading habit. Comfrey plants are easy to grow and require very little maintenance once established. This perennial is generally frost and drought hardy as well as being primarily disease and pest resistant.
Comfrey Uses
As mentioned above, the comfrey herb plant has a long history of medicinal usage. Useful not only for staunching blood flow and arresting some bronchial ailments, comfrey has also been used to heal broken bones. Comfrey tea is often ingested for internal illness and poultices are applied to external ailments. Comfrey contains high amounts of allantioin (also found in nursing mother’s milk) and is said to increase the rate of cell growth, which in turn increases the number of white blood cells. The application of allantoin has been shown to heal wounds and burns more quickly and promotes healthy skin with high mucilage content. Due to this by-product of moisturizing and soothing, comfrey may be added to some cosmetics, cream, lotions and some people even add it to their bath water. At one time, comfrey herb plant was used as a forage crop but has been found to be unpalatable to some animals and recently has also been found to be possibly carcinogenic. Today the herb is restricted as a food crop and essentially used commercially for cosmetics and ornamental uses, including its use as a dye. Comfrey fertilizer is also used for composting, mulching or green manure. Some people eat comfrey, as it is a great source of plant-derived vitamin B12 primarily for vegetarians and vegans. Larger amounts of essential amino acids are found in turnip greens and spinach, so the jury is still out about whether the beneficial nutrition outweighs the possible harmful carcinogenic issues.
What is Comfrey?
Symphytum officinale, or comfrey herb plant, has a long history of use as a medicinal herb but not as a culinary plant. Otherwise known as knitbone or slippery root, comfrey plants have been used medicinally since 400 BC to stop heavy bleeding and to treat bronchial issues. From the family Boraginaceae, comfrey is a perennial herb with a spreading habit that attains a height of up to 4 feet. This plant is native to Europe and Asia where is thrives in moist, shady locations and bears ½-inch long flowers in May. The leaves of the comfrey are deep green in color, hairy and 10 inches or so in length.
Growing Comfrey Plants
Growing comfrey plants requires a climate in hardiness zone USDA 3-9 (although some ornamental varieties are only hardy to zone 5) with rich, moist, alkaline soil (pH of 6.7-7.3). Comfrey plants generally prefer shade to part shade exposures in warm moist soil, although some cultivars require full sunlight to attain highest yields. There are some aggressive species and many self-sow readily. Propagation can be done via seed, division or separation. Sow comfrey seeds in fall or early spring directly in the garden or in a cold frame, and pot seedlings to be over wintered inside. Division of comfrey herb plants may occur at any time; however, spring is suggested. Divide by cutting off 3 inches of root below the soil level and then plant directly into a pot or another area of the garden. As comfrey can be an aggressive spreader, you may want to plant within a physical barrier and deadhead flowers to rein in its spreading habit. Comfrey plants are easy to grow and require very little maintenance once established. This perennial is generally frost and drought hardy as well as being primarily disease and pest resistant.
Comfrey Uses
As mentioned above, the comfrey herb plant has a long history of medicinal usage. Useful not only for staunching blood flow and arresting some bronchial ailments, comfrey has also been used to heal broken bones. Comfrey tea is often ingested for internal illness and poultices are applied to external ailments. Comfrey contains high amounts of allantioin (also found in nursing mother’s milk) and is said to increase the rate of cell growth, which in turn increases the number of white blood cells. The application of allantoin has been shown to heal wounds and burns more quickly and promotes healthy skin with high mucilage content. Due to this by-product of moisturizing and soothing, comfrey may be added to some cosmetics, cream, lotions and some people even add it to their bath water. At one time, comfrey herb plant was used as a forage crop but has been found to be unpalatable to some animals and recently has also been found to be possibly carcinogenic. Today the herb is restricted as a food crop and essentially used commercially for cosmetics and ornamental uses, including its use as a dye. Comfrey fertilizer is also used for composting, mulching or green manure. Some people eat comfrey, as it is a great source of plant-derived vitamin B12 primarily for vegetarians and vegans. Larger amounts of essential amino acids are found in turnip greens and spinach, so the jury is still out about whether the beneficial nutrition outweighs the possible harmful carcinogenic issues.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Growing chives indoors make perfect sense so that you may have them near the kitchen. Use chives liberally in dishes; chives growing indoors will benefit from a regular trim. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow chives indoors.
How to Grow Chives Indoors
A sunny south window offers the six to eight hours of full sunlight needed when growing chives inside. Rotate pots if chives are reaching toward the light.
If a sunny window is not an option, chives growing indoors can get the necessary light from a fluorescent fixture six to twelve inches above the pot. Two 40-watt bulbs work best when growing chives inside. Chives growing indoors appreciate other growing pots close by to provide humidity as well as a fan for air circulation. Humidity for indoor chives may also be provided by nearby pebble trays filled with water or miniature water features nearby. Misting with a water bottle can also help prevent low humidity. Chives growing inside should be watered when the soil is dry to the touch on the top.
Low dose fertilization is recommended for growing chives indoors. A water soluble fertilizer at half strength may be applied twice per month; heavier doses may weaken the taste of the chives. When growing chives indoors, pests should be minimal. Often the aroma of chives acts at a pest repellent, but in the event of insect problems, spray well with soapy water. This can be applied as needed.
Tips for Planting Chives Indoors
To begin growing chives indoors, fill a 6-inch clay pot with well-draining potting medium which you have pre-moistened. Soil should form a ball when squeezed, but not be soggy or dripping water. Broadcast seeds over the pre-moistened medium and cover with a fine layer of the pre-moistened soil, about ¼ inch deep. Place in the lighted area. Seeds may be kept moist until germination with a mist of water, weak plant food or weak compost tea.
Chives germinate within two weeks, often more quickly. Growing chives indoors offers a handy and easy way to season your food and brighten your space.
How to Grow Chives Indoors
A sunny south window offers the six to eight hours of full sunlight needed when growing chives inside. Rotate pots if chives are reaching toward the light.
If a sunny window is not an option, chives growing indoors can get the necessary light from a fluorescent fixture six to twelve inches above the pot. Two 40-watt bulbs work best when growing chives inside. Chives growing indoors appreciate other growing pots close by to provide humidity as well as a fan for air circulation. Humidity for indoor chives may also be provided by nearby pebble trays filled with water or miniature water features nearby. Misting with a water bottle can also help prevent low humidity. Chives growing inside should be watered when the soil is dry to the touch on the top.
Low dose fertilization is recommended for growing chives indoors. A water soluble fertilizer at half strength may be applied twice per month; heavier doses may weaken the taste of the chives. When growing chives indoors, pests should be minimal. Often the aroma of chives acts at a pest repellent, but in the event of insect problems, spray well with soapy water. This can be applied as needed.
Tips for Planting Chives Indoors
To begin growing chives indoors, fill a 6-inch clay pot with well-draining potting medium which you have pre-moistened. Soil should form a ball when squeezed, but not be soggy or dripping water. Broadcast seeds over the pre-moistened medium and cover with a fine layer of the pre-moistened soil, about ¼ inch deep. Place in the lighted area. Seeds may be kept moist until germination with a mist of water, weak plant food or weak compost tea.
Chives germinate within two weeks, often more quickly. Growing chives indoors offers a handy and easy way to season your food and brighten your space.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
We cultivate our chives in amongst our herb bed, but did you know that wild chives (Allium schoeneprasum) are one of the most common and easy to identify wild growing plants? What are wild chives and are wild chives edible? Read on to find out about wild chive identification and if wild chives are safe to eat.
Are Those Wild Chives in My Yard?
Wild chives are indeed so common you may have wondered “are those wild chives in my yard?” It is very likely the case. These perennial monocots reside in the onion genus and are the smallest species of onion. They are the only Allium species native to both the Old and New World and can be found throughout Europe, Asia and North America.
Chives have been cultivated in Europe since at least the 16th century, but wild chives have been used according to Egyptian and Mesopotamian records to 5,000 B.C. Native people used wild chives medicinally as well. Depending upon the culture, wild chives were used to stimulate the appetite or rid the system of worms, clear sinuses, as an antiseptic, or to treat a variety of maladies from insect bites, hives, burns, sores, and even snakebite. Wild chives contain sulfur compounds that ward off insect pests. They make a great companion plant in the garden, a natural pesticide if you would.
Wild Chive Identification
The wild chive is easy to identify if you’ve ever seen a domestic chive. They look like a clump of grass as they grow except that the leaf blades are not flat like grass but rather cylindrical and hollow. Wild chives will be one of the first plants to appear in the spring and easily stand out amongst the dormant grass. Wild chives grow between 10-20 inches in height. The aroma is lightly oniony, and while there are other plants that look similar, the poisonous mountain death-camas, for example, they lack the distinctive aroma. Wild chives can be found growing in USDA zones 4-8 among grasses and natural areas.
Are Wild Chives Safe to Eat?
While historically wild chives have been used medicinally, modern people use chives as a seasoning or on their own, sautéed as a vegetable. They impart a wonderful delicate onion flavor to soups and stew, and can even be pickled. The entire part of the plant can be eaten. Even the lilac flowers of wild chives are edible as well as beautiful when garnished atop a salad or soup. As mentioned, other plants look similar to wild chives – wild onion and wild garlic to name two. What is the difference between wild onions, wild garlic and wild chives? Wild chives look similar to wild garlic in that they both have hollow leaves while wild onion foliage does not. Sometimes wild onion is also called wild garlic, which is confusing to say the least. These are two distinct plants, however. Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) and are both perennials often thought of more as weeds. That said, all three are members of the Allium family and will all have a distinct aroma. As such, when a plant looks like an onion and smells like an onion, you can eat it like an onion. The same goes with wild garlic, which is just a wild version of our domestic garlic – albeit with smaller cloves.
Are Those Wild Chives in My Yard?
Wild chives are indeed so common you may have wondered “are those wild chives in my yard?” It is very likely the case. These perennial monocots reside in the onion genus and are the smallest species of onion. They are the only Allium species native to both the Old and New World and can be found throughout Europe, Asia and North America.
Chives have been cultivated in Europe since at least the 16th century, but wild chives have been used according to Egyptian and Mesopotamian records to 5,000 B.C. Native people used wild chives medicinally as well. Depending upon the culture, wild chives were used to stimulate the appetite or rid the system of worms, clear sinuses, as an antiseptic, or to treat a variety of maladies from insect bites, hives, burns, sores, and even snakebite. Wild chives contain sulfur compounds that ward off insect pests. They make a great companion plant in the garden, a natural pesticide if you would.
Wild Chive Identification
The wild chive is easy to identify if you’ve ever seen a domestic chive. They look like a clump of grass as they grow except that the leaf blades are not flat like grass but rather cylindrical and hollow. Wild chives will be one of the first plants to appear in the spring and easily stand out amongst the dormant grass. Wild chives grow between 10-20 inches in height. The aroma is lightly oniony, and while there are other plants that look similar, the poisonous mountain death-camas, for example, they lack the distinctive aroma. Wild chives can be found growing in USDA zones 4-8 among grasses and natural areas.
Are Wild Chives Safe to Eat?
While historically wild chives have been used medicinally, modern people use chives as a seasoning or on their own, sautéed as a vegetable. They impart a wonderful delicate onion flavor to soups and stew, and can even be pickled. The entire part of the plant can be eaten. Even the lilac flowers of wild chives are edible as well as beautiful when garnished atop a salad or soup. As mentioned, other plants look similar to wild chives – wild onion and wild garlic to name two. What is the difference between wild onions, wild garlic and wild chives? Wild chives look similar to wild garlic in that they both have hollow leaves while wild onion foliage does not. Sometimes wild onion is also called wild garlic, which is confusing to say the least. These are two distinct plants, however. Wild garlic (Allium vineale) and wild onion (Allium canadense) and are both perennials often thought of more as weeds. That said, all three are members of the Allium family and will all have a distinct aroma. As such, when a plant looks like an onion and smells like an onion, you can eat it like an onion. The same goes with wild garlic, which is just a wild version of our domestic garlic – albeit with smaller cloves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
If there were an award for “easiest herb to grow,” growing chives (Allium schoenoprasum) would win that award. Learning how to grow chives is so easy that even a child can do it, which makes this plant an excellent herb to help introduce children to herb gardening.
How to Plant Chives from Divisions
Divisions are the most common way how to plant chives. Find an established clump of chives in early spring or mid fall. Gently dig the clump and pull away a smaller clump from the main clump. The smaller clump should have at least five to 10 bulbs. Transplant this small clump to the desired location in your garden where you will be growing chives.
How to Plant Chives from Seeds
While chives are frequently grown from divisions, they are just as easy to start from seeds. Chive can be started indoors or outdoors. Plant chives seeds about 1/4-inch deep in the soil. Water well. If you’re planting chive seeds indoors, place the pot in a dark spot in temperatures 60 to 70 F. (15 to 21 C.) until the seeds sprout, then move them into the light. When the chives reach 6 inches, you can transplant them to the garden. If you’re planting the chive seeds outdoors, wait ’till after the last frost to plant the seeds. The seeds may take a little extra time to sprout until the soil warms up.
Where to Grow Chives
Chives will grow just about anywhere, but prefer strong light and rich soil. Chives also don’t do as well in soil that is too wet or too dry.
Growing Chives Indoors
Growing chives indoors is also easy. Chives do very well indoors and will frequently be the herb that will do the best in your indoor herb garden. The best way how to grow chives indoors is to plant them in a pot that drains well, but is filled with a good potting soil. Place the chives where they will get bright light. Continue harvesting chives as you would if they were outdoors.
Harvesting Chives
Harvesting chives is as easy as growing chives. Once the chives are about a foot tall, simply snip off what you need. When harvesting chives, you can cut the chive plant back to half its size without harming the plant. If your chive plant starts to flower, the flowers are edible as well. Add the chive flowers to your salad or as decorations for soup. Knowing how to grow chives is as easy as knowing how to chew bubble gum. Add these tasty herbs to your garden today.
How to Plant Chives from Divisions
Divisions are the most common way how to plant chives. Find an established clump of chives in early spring or mid fall. Gently dig the clump and pull away a smaller clump from the main clump. The smaller clump should have at least five to 10 bulbs. Transplant this small clump to the desired location in your garden where you will be growing chives.
How to Plant Chives from Seeds
While chives are frequently grown from divisions, they are just as easy to start from seeds. Chive can be started indoors or outdoors. Plant chives seeds about 1/4-inch deep in the soil. Water well. If you’re planting chive seeds indoors, place the pot in a dark spot in temperatures 60 to 70 F. (15 to 21 C.) until the seeds sprout, then move them into the light. When the chives reach 6 inches, you can transplant them to the garden. If you’re planting the chive seeds outdoors, wait ’till after the last frost to plant the seeds. The seeds may take a little extra time to sprout until the soil warms up.
Where to Grow Chives
Chives will grow just about anywhere, but prefer strong light and rich soil. Chives also don’t do as well in soil that is too wet or too dry.
Growing Chives Indoors
Growing chives indoors is also easy. Chives do very well indoors and will frequently be the herb that will do the best in your indoor herb garden. The best way how to grow chives indoors is to plant them in a pot that drains well, but is filled with a good potting soil. Place the chives where they will get bright light. Continue harvesting chives as you would if they were outdoors.
Harvesting Chives
Harvesting chives is as easy as growing chives. Once the chives are about a foot tall, simply snip off what you need. When harvesting chives, you can cut the chive plant back to half its size without harming the plant. If your chive plant starts to flower, the flowers are edible as well. Add the chive flowers to your salad or as decorations for soup. Knowing how to grow chives is as easy as knowing how to chew bubble gum. Add these tasty herbs to your garden today.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Many people swear by homegrown chamomile tea to calm their nerves. This cheery herb can add beauty to a garden and may have sedative qualities. Chamomile growing in the garden is both useful and visually pleasing.
Identifying Chamomile
There are two kinds of chamomile. The first is Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) and the other is German chamomile (Matricaria recutita). The Roman variety is the true chamomile but German chamomile is used herbally for nearly the same things. The steps for growing Roman chamomile and growing German chamomile are also nearly identical.
Roman chamomile is also known as Russian chamomile and English chamomile. It is a creeping ground cover that grows like a mat. It has small daisy like flowers with yellow centers and white petals. The leaves are feathery. It is a perennial. German chamomile looks similar to Roman chamomile with the differences being that German chamomile grows upright to the height of about 1 to 2 feet and is a reseeding annual.
How to Grow Chamomile Herb
As stated, both kinds of chamomile grow in similar conditions, so from here on down, we will refer to them as just chamomile. You can grow chamomile in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 to 9. Plant chamomile in the spring from either seeds or plants. It’s easier to establish chamomile herb in your garden from plants or divisions than from seeds, but growing chamomile from seed is also relatively easy. Chamomile grows best in cool conditions and should be planted in part shade, but will also grow full sun. The soil should be dry. Once your chamomile is established, it needs very little care. Like most herbs, chamomile grows best when it is not fussed over. Too much fertilizer will result in lots of weakly flavored foliage and few flowers.
Chamomile is drought tolerant and only needs to be watered in times of prolonged drought. For the most part, chamomile is not affected by many pests. It is often recommended as a companion plant to plant in the vegetable garden as its strong scent often keeps pests away. That being said, a chamomile plant weakened by lack of water or other issues may be attacked by aphids, mealybugs or thrips.
Identifying Chamomile
There are two kinds of chamomile. The first is Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) and the other is German chamomile (Matricaria recutita). The Roman variety is the true chamomile but German chamomile is used herbally for nearly the same things. The steps for growing Roman chamomile and growing German chamomile are also nearly identical.
Roman chamomile is also known as Russian chamomile and English chamomile. It is a creeping ground cover that grows like a mat. It has small daisy like flowers with yellow centers and white petals. The leaves are feathery. It is a perennial. German chamomile looks similar to Roman chamomile with the differences being that German chamomile grows upright to the height of about 1 to 2 feet and is a reseeding annual.
How to Grow Chamomile Herb
As stated, both kinds of chamomile grow in similar conditions, so from here on down, we will refer to them as just chamomile. You can grow chamomile in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 to 9. Plant chamomile in the spring from either seeds or plants. It’s easier to establish chamomile herb in your garden from plants or divisions than from seeds, but growing chamomile from seed is also relatively easy. Chamomile grows best in cool conditions and should be planted in part shade, but will also grow full sun. The soil should be dry. Once your chamomile is established, it needs very little care. Like most herbs, chamomile grows best when it is not fussed over. Too much fertilizer will result in lots of weakly flavored foliage and few flowers.
Chamomile is drought tolerant and only needs to be watered in times of prolonged drought. For the most part, chamomile is not affected by many pests. It is often recommended as a companion plant to plant in the vegetable garden as its strong scent often keeps pests away. That being said, a chamomile plant weakened by lack of water or other issues may be attacked by aphids, mealybugs or thrips.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Catnip plants (Nepeta cataria) can help make your garden a cat-friendly garden. The catnip herb is a perennial member of the mint family that is best known for being attractive to cats, but can also be used in soothing teas. Growing catnip is easy, but there are some things you need to know about how to grow catnip.
Planting Catnip
Catnip can be planted in your garden either from seed or from plants.
If you’re growing catnip from seed, you’ll need to properly prepare the seeds. Catnip seeds are tough and need to be stratified or slightly damaged before they will sprout. This can be done by first placing the seeds in the freezer overnight and then placing the seeds in a bowl of water for 24 hours. This process will damage the seed coat and will make it much easier for the catnip seeds to sprout. After you have stratified the seeds, you can plant them indoors or outdoors. Thin them to one plant per 20 inches after the sprout. You can also plant catnip from plant divisions or started plants. The best time for planting catnip starts or divisions is in either the spring or fall. Catnip plants should be planted 18 to 20 inches apart.
Growing Catnip
Catnip herb grows best in well draining soil in the full sun, but will tolerate part sun and a wide variety of soil types. Once catnip plants are established, they need very little in the way of care. They don’t need to be fertilized, as fertilizer can decrease the potency of their smell and flavor. They only need to be provided with water beyond rainfall if you are growing catnip in pots or if you are having drought conditions.
Catnip can become invasive in some areas so you need to take steps to control it. Catnip plants spread readily by seed so in order to control its spread, you’ll need to remove the flowers before they go to seed. Growing catnip can be rewarding. Now that you know a few facts about how to grow catnip, you (and your cat) can enjoy this wonderful herb.
Planting Catnip
Catnip can be planted in your garden either from seed or from plants.
If you’re growing catnip from seed, you’ll need to properly prepare the seeds. Catnip seeds are tough and need to be stratified or slightly damaged before they will sprout. This can be done by first placing the seeds in the freezer overnight and then placing the seeds in a bowl of water for 24 hours. This process will damage the seed coat and will make it much easier for the catnip seeds to sprout. After you have stratified the seeds, you can plant them indoors or outdoors. Thin them to one plant per 20 inches after the sprout. You can also plant catnip from plant divisions or started plants. The best time for planting catnip starts or divisions is in either the spring or fall. Catnip plants should be planted 18 to 20 inches apart.
Growing Catnip
Catnip herb grows best in well draining soil in the full sun, but will tolerate part sun and a wide variety of soil types. Once catnip plants are established, they need very little in the way of care. They don’t need to be fertilized, as fertilizer can decrease the potency of their smell and flavor. They only need to be provided with water beyond rainfall if you are growing catnip in pots or if you are having drought conditions.
Catnip can become invasive in some areas so you need to take steps to control it. Catnip plants spread readily by seed so in order to control its spread, you’ll need to remove the flowers before they go to seed. Growing catnip can be rewarding. Now that you know a few facts about how to grow catnip, you (and your cat) can enjoy this wonderful herb.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
What are capers and how are they used? Capers, unopened flower buds found on the caper bush, are the culinary darlings of many cuisines. Capers can be found in European foods and in those of Africa and India as well, where cultivation of growing capers is found. Growing a caper bush, however, is not an easy task.
What are Capers?
Caper plants (Capparis spinosa) are usually found growing wild in the Mediterranean in dry stony areas similar to those where olives are grown. Capers grow in viney brambles, much like blackberries do in North America. Cultivation of a caper bush is most often found in Spain and Africa, but in the past, Southern Russia was also an exporter. Growing capers are, as mentioned, the buds of a shrub-like perennial (3 to 5 feet high) which has a multitude of spiny branches bearing 2-inch white flowers with purple stamens.
What are Capers Used For?
So how are capers used? The tiny buds of the caper bush, or Capparis spinosa, are picked on a daily basis and then pickled in vinegar or otherwise brined in salt. The resulting flavor of the caper berry is strong and distinct–like that of mustard and black pepper–due to its concentration of mustard oil, which is released when the plant tissue is crushed. This piquant flavor and aroma lends itself well to a variety of sauces, pizza, fish meats and salads. The immature leaves growing on a caper bush may even be eaten as a cooked vegetable and the burnt remnants of the growing caper bush roots have been utilized as a salt substitute. Caper fruits (caperberry, capperone, or taperone) may be used in making caper-flavored sauces, or sometimes pickled for eating like small gherkins. A caper bush also has medicinal uses. Growing capers may be harvested to aid in eliminating flatulence, improving liver function, or for its anti-rheumatic effects. An age-old remedy, growing capers have also been reputed to be useful in treating arteriosclerosis, kidney ailments, diuretics, anemia, arthritis, gout and dropsy.
How to Grow Capers from Seed
Growing a caper bush can be achieved via propagation from seed, although finding a seed source is more of a challenge. If seed for growing capers is located, one may try growing them in a large pot with a base of coarse rock or crumbled brick. Take care not to overwater as the plant’s foliage is a natural water conservator. Caper seeds are very tiny and germinate readily but in low percentiles. Dried seeds are more difficult to germinate and should be soaked for one day in warm water, then wrapped in damp towel, sealed in a jar and refrigerated for two to three months. Post refrigeration, re-soak seeds overnight and then plant at a depth of 1 cm in well drained medium.
How to Grow Capers from Cuttings
Collect growing caper berry cuttings in February, March or April using basal portions with six to 10 buds. For growing a caper bush, seat cuttings in a loose, well-draining soil medium with a heat source at the base. Dipping the stem cutting in a bit of rooting hormone first is also beneficial.
Caring for Caper Plants
Caring for caper plants requires a steady stream of strong sunlight and an arid climate. Growing caper plants have a hardiness range similar to olive trees (18 degrees F. or -8 degrees C.) and can also tolerate summer temperatures of over 105 degrees F. (41 degrees C.). When growing a caper bush, the plant itself is quite tolerant and develops deep root systems, the better to avail itself of its resources in a difficult environment. When harvesting, size matters. Growing capers are divided into five distinct groups. When growing a caper bush, buds are picked at the immature stage and categorized according to size: nonpareils, capuchins, capotes, seconds, and thirds—with the nonpareils being the most prized — and most expensive. In Italy, capers are graded on a scale from 7 to 16, which indicates their size in millimeters.
What are Capers?
Caper plants (Capparis spinosa) are usually found growing wild in the Mediterranean in dry stony areas similar to those where olives are grown. Capers grow in viney brambles, much like blackberries do in North America. Cultivation of a caper bush is most often found in Spain and Africa, but in the past, Southern Russia was also an exporter. Growing capers are, as mentioned, the buds of a shrub-like perennial (3 to 5 feet high) which has a multitude of spiny branches bearing 2-inch white flowers with purple stamens.
What are Capers Used For?
So how are capers used? The tiny buds of the caper bush, or Capparis spinosa, are picked on a daily basis and then pickled in vinegar or otherwise brined in salt. The resulting flavor of the caper berry is strong and distinct–like that of mustard and black pepper–due to its concentration of mustard oil, which is released when the plant tissue is crushed. This piquant flavor and aroma lends itself well to a variety of sauces, pizza, fish meats and salads. The immature leaves growing on a caper bush may even be eaten as a cooked vegetable and the burnt remnants of the growing caper bush roots have been utilized as a salt substitute. Caper fruits (caperberry, capperone, or taperone) may be used in making caper-flavored sauces, or sometimes pickled for eating like small gherkins. A caper bush also has medicinal uses. Growing capers may be harvested to aid in eliminating flatulence, improving liver function, or for its anti-rheumatic effects. An age-old remedy, growing capers have also been reputed to be useful in treating arteriosclerosis, kidney ailments, diuretics, anemia, arthritis, gout and dropsy.
How to Grow Capers from Seed
Growing a caper bush can be achieved via propagation from seed, although finding a seed source is more of a challenge. If seed for growing capers is located, one may try growing them in a large pot with a base of coarse rock or crumbled brick. Take care not to overwater as the plant’s foliage is a natural water conservator. Caper seeds are very tiny and germinate readily but in low percentiles. Dried seeds are more difficult to germinate and should be soaked for one day in warm water, then wrapped in damp towel, sealed in a jar and refrigerated for two to three months. Post refrigeration, re-soak seeds overnight and then plant at a depth of 1 cm in well drained medium.
How to Grow Capers from Cuttings
Collect growing caper berry cuttings in February, March or April using basal portions with six to 10 buds. For growing a caper bush, seat cuttings in a loose, well-draining soil medium with a heat source at the base. Dipping the stem cutting in a bit of rooting hormone first is also beneficial.
Caring for Caper Plants
Caring for caper plants requires a steady stream of strong sunlight and an arid climate. Growing caper plants have a hardiness range similar to olive trees (18 degrees F. or -8 degrees C.) and can also tolerate summer temperatures of over 105 degrees F. (41 degrees C.). When growing a caper bush, the plant itself is quite tolerant and develops deep root systems, the better to avail itself of its resources in a difficult environment. When harvesting, size matters. Growing capers are divided into five distinct groups. When growing a caper bush, buds are picked at the immature stage and categorized according to size: nonpareils, capuchins, capotes, seconds, and thirds—with the nonpareils being the most prized — and most expensive. In Italy, capers are graded on a scale from 7 to 16, which indicates their size in millimeters.
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