文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The rubber tree is a large houseplant and most people find it is easy to grow and care for indoors. However, some people ask about growing outdoor rubber tree plants. In fact, in some areas, this plant is used as a screen or patio plant. So, can you grow rubber plant outside? Read more to learn about taking care of a rubber plant outside in your area.
Can You Grow Rubber Plants Outside?
Gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can grow the plant outdoors, according to most rubber plant information. Outdoor rubber tree plants (Ficus elastica) may grow in Zone 9 if winter protection is offered. In this area, outdoor rubber tree plants should be planted on the north or east side of a building for protection from the wind. When the plant is young, prune it to a single trunk, as these plants tend to split when caught in the wind.
Rubber plant information also says to plant the tree in a shady area, although some plants accept light, dappled shade. Thick, glabrous leaves burn easily when exposed to sunlight. Those living in tropical zones outside of the United States can grow outdoor rubber tree plants easily, as this is their native environment. In the wild, outdoor rubber tree plants can reach 40 to 100 feet in height. When using this plant as an outdoor ornamental, pruning limbs and the top of the plant make it sturdier and more compact.
Rubber Plant Information for Northern Areas
If you live in a more northern area and want to grow outdoor rubber tree plants, plant them in a container. Taking care of a rubber plant growing in a container can include locating them outdoors during seasons of warm temperatures. Optimum temperatures for taking care of a rubber plant outdoors are 65 to 80 F. (18-27 C.) Outdoors, plants acclimated to cooler temperatures should be brought indoors before temperatures reach 30 F. (-1 C.).
Taking Care of a Rubber Plant Outdoors
Rubber plant information suggests plants require deep watering and then allow the soil to dry out almost completely. Some sources say containerized plants should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Still other sources say the drying of the soil causes leaves to drop. Keep an eye on your rubber tree growing outdoors and use good judgment on watering, depending on its location.
Can You Grow Rubber Plants Outside?
Gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can grow the plant outdoors, according to most rubber plant information. Outdoor rubber tree plants (Ficus elastica) may grow in Zone 9 if winter protection is offered. In this area, outdoor rubber tree plants should be planted on the north or east side of a building for protection from the wind. When the plant is young, prune it to a single trunk, as these plants tend to split when caught in the wind.
Rubber plant information also says to plant the tree in a shady area, although some plants accept light, dappled shade. Thick, glabrous leaves burn easily when exposed to sunlight. Those living in tropical zones outside of the United States can grow outdoor rubber tree plants easily, as this is their native environment. In the wild, outdoor rubber tree plants can reach 40 to 100 feet in height. When using this plant as an outdoor ornamental, pruning limbs and the top of the plant make it sturdier and more compact.
Rubber Plant Information for Northern Areas
If you live in a more northern area and want to grow outdoor rubber tree plants, plant them in a container. Taking care of a rubber plant growing in a container can include locating them outdoors during seasons of warm temperatures. Optimum temperatures for taking care of a rubber plant outdoors are 65 to 80 F. (18-27 C.) Outdoors, plants acclimated to cooler temperatures should be brought indoors before temperatures reach 30 F. (-1 C.).
Taking Care of a Rubber Plant Outdoors
Rubber plant information suggests plants require deep watering and then allow the soil to dry out almost completely. Some sources say containerized plants should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Still other sources say the drying of the soil causes leaves to drop. Keep an eye on your rubber tree growing outdoors and use good judgment on watering, depending on its location.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Gardeners seeking a palm tree specimen to accent the garden or home will want to know how to grow the pygmy date palm tree. Pygmy palm growing is relatively simple given suitable conditions, though pruning pygmy palm trees is sometimes necessary to keep its growth manageable, especially in smaller settings.
Pygmy Date Palm Information
More significant than its name implies, the pygmy date palm tree (Phoenix roebelenii) is a member of the family Arecaceae, a huge group with over 2,600 species found in tropical and subtropical climates of the world. Pygmy palm growing is used in a variety of interiorscapes and commercial plantings due to its graceful form and height of 6 to 10 feet.
Pygmy date palm information allows that this particular genus is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Its genus, Phoenix, encompasses only a small portion of the Arecaceae family counted at about 17 species. Pygmy date palm trees have small, yellow hued flowers, which give way to tiny purplish dates born on a thin solitary trunk with deep green fronds forming a crown. Insignificant thorns also grow on the leaf stalks.
How to Grow Pygmy Date Palm Trees
This palm tree hails from Southeast Asia and, therefore, thrives in USDA zones 10-11, which mimic conditions found in those areas of Asia. In USDA zones 10-11, temperatures do not routinely dip below 30 F. (-1 C.); however, the tree has been known to survive in USDA zone 9b (20 to 30 degrees F. or -6 to -1 C.) without significant frost protection. That said, the pygmy palms may do well as a container specimen on a deck or patio during the summer months in the Midwest, but will need to be overwintered indoors before the first frost. Pygmy date palm trees grow along riverbanks with sun to partial shade exposure and, hence, require significant irrigation and rich organic soil to truly flourish.
Care for a Pygmy Date Palm
To care for a pygmy date palm, be sure to maintain a regular watering schedule and plant this tree in sandy, well-drained soil in an area of sun all the way to full shade. When grown in soil with a pH over 7, the tree may develop magnesium or potassium deficiency with symptoms of chlorotic or spotted fronds. Pygmy palms have moderate drought tolerance and are mostly resistant to disease and pests; however, leaf spot and bud rot may afflict this type of palm.
Pruning Pygmy Palm Trees
The up to 6-foot long fronds of the pygmy palm tree may occasionally need reining in. Pruning pygmy palm trees is not a daunting task and merely requires periodical removal of aged or diseased foliage. Other maintenance of the tree may include some clean up of spent leaves or removal of offshoots as the propagation method for this palm is via seed dispersal.
Pygmy Date Palm Information
More significant than its name implies, the pygmy date palm tree (Phoenix roebelenii) is a member of the family Arecaceae, a huge group with over 2,600 species found in tropical and subtropical climates of the world. Pygmy palm growing is used in a variety of interiorscapes and commercial plantings due to its graceful form and height of 6 to 10 feet.
Pygmy date palm information allows that this particular genus is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Its genus, Phoenix, encompasses only a small portion of the Arecaceae family counted at about 17 species. Pygmy date palm trees have small, yellow hued flowers, which give way to tiny purplish dates born on a thin solitary trunk with deep green fronds forming a crown. Insignificant thorns also grow on the leaf stalks.
How to Grow Pygmy Date Palm Trees
This palm tree hails from Southeast Asia and, therefore, thrives in USDA zones 10-11, which mimic conditions found in those areas of Asia. In USDA zones 10-11, temperatures do not routinely dip below 30 F. (-1 C.); however, the tree has been known to survive in USDA zone 9b (20 to 30 degrees F. or -6 to -1 C.) without significant frost protection. That said, the pygmy palms may do well as a container specimen on a deck or patio during the summer months in the Midwest, but will need to be overwintered indoors before the first frost. Pygmy date palm trees grow along riverbanks with sun to partial shade exposure and, hence, require significant irrigation and rich organic soil to truly flourish.
Care for a Pygmy Date Palm
To care for a pygmy date palm, be sure to maintain a regular watering schedule and plant this tree in sandy, well-drained soil in an area of sun all the way to full shade. When grown in soil with a pH over 7, the tree may develop magnesium or potassium deficiency with symptoms of chlorotic or spotted fronds. Pygmy palms have moderate drought tolerance and are mostly resistant to disease and pests; however, leaf spot and bud rot may afflict this type of palm.
Pruning Pygmy Palm Trees
The up to 6-foot long fronds of the pygmy palm tree may occasionally need reining in. Pruning pygmy palm trees is not a daunting task and merely requires periodical removal of aged or diseased foliage. Other maintenance of the tree may include some clean up of spent leaves or removal of offshoots as the propagation method for this palm is via seed dispersal.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
If you have one pitcher plant and you’d like more, you may be thinking of growing pitcher plants from seed taken from its spent blooms. Pitcher plant seed sowing is one of the best ways to reproduce the beautiful plant. But like the seeds of other carnivorous plants, they need special treatment to give them their best chance at growing. Read on for information about how to grow pitcher plants from seed.
How to Grow Pitcher Plants from Seed
If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to provide them with a lot of humidity to get them to germinate. Experts recommend that pitcher plant growing take place in transparent pots that have lids to keep in the moisture. It is also possible to use regular pots with glass or plastic domes over them to serve the same purpose.
Most growers recommend that you use pure peat moss as a growing medium for pitcher plant seeds to be sure that it is sterile and won’t mold. You may also dust the seeds with a fungicide beforehand to control mold. You can mix in a little silica sand, or washed river sand, and perlite if you have some handy.
Stratification for Pitcher Plant Seeds
Pitcher plant seed growing requires stratification. This means that the seeds grow best when put in a cold location for several months before they germinate to reproduce the chilly winters of their native lands. Moisten the planting medium first, then sow pitcher plant seeds by placing them on the medium surface. Place the pots in a warm area for a few days, then in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks. After the appropriate amount of stratification time, move the entire pitcher plant seed growing operation to a warmer area with bright light. If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to be patient. Allow the pitcher plant seeds all the time they need to germinate.
Germination for carnivorous plants like the pitcher takes far longer than germination of flowers or garden vegetables. They rarely germinate within a few weeks. Many times they take months to start sprouting. Keep the soil moist and the plant in bright light, then try to forget about the seeds until you see the pitcher plant seed growing.
How to Grow Pitcher Plants from Seed
If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to provide them with a lot of humidity to get them to germinate. Experts recommend that pitcher plant growing take place in transparent pots that have lids to keep in the moisture. It is also possible to use regular pots with glass or plastic domes over them to serve the same purpose.
Most growers recommend that you use pure peat moss as a growing medium for pitcher plant seeds to be sure that it is sterile and won’t mold. You may also dust the seeds with a fungicide beforehand to control mold. You can mix in a little silica sand, or washed river sand, and perlite if you have some handy.
Stratification for Pitcher Plant Seeds
Pitcher plant seed growing requires stratification. This means that the seeds grow best when put in a cold location for several months before they germinate to reproduce the chilly winters of their native lands. Moisten the planting medium first, then sow pitcher plant seeds by placing them on the medium surface. Place the pots in a warm area for a few days, then in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks. After the appropriate amount of stratification time, move the entire pitcher plant seed growing operation to a warmer area with bright light. If you are growing pitcher plants from seeds, you have to be patient. Allow the pitcher plant seeds all the time they need to germinate.
Germination for carnivorous plants like the pitcher takes far longer than germination of flowers or garden vegetables. They rarely germinate within a few weeks. Many times they take months to start sprouting. Keep the soil moist and the plant in bright light, then try to forget about the seeds until you see the pitcher plant seed growing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Growing Persian violet indoors can add a splash of color and interest to the home. These easy to care for plants will reward you with beautiful blooms when given optimal conditions. Read on for more about Persian violet plant care.
What is a Persian Violet?
Persian violet (Exacum affine), or Exacum Persian violet, is an attractive perennial with bluish or white star-shaped flowers and shiny green leaves. These plants can be grown indoors, but they also flourish outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-11. This violet is usually purchased in full bloom and the flowers are evenly spaced over a rounded ball of foliage. The Persian violet blooms for about three or four months; after that, it can be difficult to get it to bloom again. A good thought to have with this plant is to enjoy it while you can!
Growing Persian Violets Indoors
The care of Persian violet houseplants is relatively easy. The best thing to do is to buy a plant that has many unopened buds. This way, you will get to enjoy each blooming flower. The Persian violet loves bright light, but not direct light, so it would be best to keep the plant near a window. They enjoy cooler rooms and higher humidity. Doing this will keep the flowers blooming for three to four months. Keep the soil moist and be careful not to water it too much; this will cause rotting of the roots. Root rot is the most common problem with these plants. If it should happen, you will have to discard the plant. A sign that your Persian violet has root rot is wilting of the leaves. If you leave dried flowers on the plant, they will start to create seeds. Should this happen, it will shorten the life span of the plant. To avoid this, pop off the dead flower heads as soon as you notice them.
Persian Violet Plant Care After Blooming
Once your Persian violet has lost all its blooms and the foliage turns yellow, it is moving into the dormant stage. Stop watering the plant and place it in a cool room with moderate light. The leaves will eventually dry out. Complete drying takes approximately two months. When this happens, remove the tuber and transplant it in a pot that is one size bigger. Fill the pot with peat moss potting mixture and place the tuber in the soil so that the top half sticks out. Do not water the tuber until leaves appear next season. When you see new growth, place your Persian violet near a window. The plant should bloom again, but the flowers may be smaller and you may get fewer of them.
What is a Persian Violet?
Persian violet (Exacum affine), or Exacum Persian violet, is an attractive perennial with bluish or white star-shaped flowers and shiny green leaves. These plants can be grown indoors, but they also flourish outdoors in USDA plant hardiness zones 5-11. This violet is usually purchased in full bloom and the flowers are evenly spaced over a rounded ball of foliage. The Persian violet blooms for about three or four months; after that, it can be difficult to get it to bloom again. A good thought to have with this plant is to enjoy it while you can!
Growing Persian Violets Indoors
The care of Persian violet houseplants is relatively easy. The best thing to do is to buy a plant that has many unopened buds. This way, you will get to enjoy each blooming flower. The Persian violet loves bright light, but not direct light, so it would be best to keep the plant near a window. They enjoy cooler rooms and higher humidity. Doing this will keep the flowers blooming for three to four months. Keep the soil moist and be careful not to water it too much; this will cause rotting of the roots. Root rot is the most common problem with these plants. If it should happen, you will have to discard the plant. A sign that your Persian violet has root rot is wilting of the leaves. If you leave dried flowers on the plant, they will start to create seeds. Should this happen, it will shorten the life span of the plant. To avoid this, pop off the dead flower heads as soon as you notice them.
Persian Violet Plant Care After Blooming
Once your Persian violet has lost all its blooms and the foliage turns yellow, it is moving into the dormant stage. Stop watering the plant and place it in a cool room with moderate light. The leaves will eventually dry out. Complete drying takes approximately two months. When this happens, remove the tuber and transplant it in a pot that is one size bigger. Fill the pot with peat moss potting mixture and place the tuber in the soil so that the top half sticks out. Do not water the tuber until leaves appear next season. When you see new growth, place your Persian violet near a window. The plant should bloom again, but the flowers may be smaller and you may get fewer of them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Is peace lily toxic to cats? A lovely plant with lush, deep green leaves, peace lily (Spathiphyllum) is prized for its ability to survive nearly any indoor growing condition, including low light and neglect. Unfortunately, peace lily and cats are a bad combination, as peace lily is indeed toxic to cats (and dogs, too). Read on to learn more about peace lily toxicity.
Toxicity of Peace Lily Plants
According to Pet Poison Hotline, the cells of peace lily plants, also known as Mauna Loa plants, contain calcium oxalate crystals. When a cat chews or bites into the leaves or stems, the crystals are released and cause injury by penetrating the animal’s tissues. The damage can be extremely painful to the animal’s mouth, even if the plant isn’t ingested.
Fortunately, peace lily toxicity isn’t as great as that of other types of lilies, including Easter lily and Asiatic lilies. The Pet Poison Hotline says that peace lily, which isn’t a true lily, doesn’t cause damage to the kidneys and liver.
Toxicity of peace lily plants is considered mild to moderate, depending on the amount ingested. The ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) lists signs of peace lily poisoning in cats as follows: Severe burning and irritation of the mouth, lips and tongue Difficulty swallowing Vomiting Excessive drooling and increased salivation To be safe, think twice before keeping or growing peace lilies if you share your home with a cat or dog.
Treating Peace Lily Poisoning in Cats
If you suspect your pet may have ingested peace lily, don’t panic, as your cat is unlikely to suffer long-term harm. Remove any chewed leaves from your cat’s mouth, and then wash the animal’s paws with cool water to remove any irritants. Never try to induce vomiting unless advised by your veterinarian, as you may unintentionally make matters worse.
Toxicity of Peace Lily Plants
According to Pet Poison Hotline, the cells of peace lily plants, also known as Mauna Loa plants, contain calcium oxalate crystals. When a cat chews or bites into the leaves or stems, the crystals are released and cause injury by penetrating the animal’s tissues. The damage can be extremely painful to the animal’s mouth, even if the plant isn’t ingested.
Fortunately, peace lily toxicity isn’t as great as that of other types of lilies, including Easter lily and Asiatic lilies. The Pet Poison Hotline says that peace lily, which isn’t a true lily, doesn’t cause damage to the kidneys and liver.
Toxicity of peace lily plants is considered mild to moderate, depending on the amount ingested. The ASPCA (American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals) lists signs of peace lily poisoning in cats as follows: Severe burning and irritation of the mouth, lips and tongue Difficulty swallowing Vomiting Excessive drooling and increased salivation To be safe, think twice before keeping or growing peace lilies if you share your home with a cat or dog.
Treating Peace Lily Poisoning in Cats
If you suspect your pet may have ingested peace lily, don’t panic, as your cat is unlikely to suffer long-term harm. Remove any chewed leaves from your cat’s mouth, and then wash the animal’s paws with cool water to remove any irritants. Never try to induce vomiting unless advised by your veterinarian, as you may unintentionally make matters worse.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Growing peace lily in an aquarium is an unusual, exotic way to display this deep green, leafy plant. Although you can grow peace lily aquarium plants without fish, many people like to add a betta fish to the aquarium, which makes the underwater environment even more colorful. Read on to learn how to grow peace lilies in fish tanks and aquariums.
Growing Peace Lily in an Aquarium or Container
Select a wide-based aquarium that holds at least a quart of water. Clear glass is best, especially if you plan to add a betta fish. Pet stores sell inexpensive goldfish bowls that work very well. Rinse the container thoroughly, but don’t use soap.
Select a small to medium-size peace lily with a healthy root system. Be sure the diameter of the peace lily is smaller than the opening of the container. If the opening of the aquarium is too crowded, the plant may not receive enough air. You’ll also need a plastic plant tray; craft knife or scissors; decorative rock, pebbles or aquarium gravel; a jug of distilled water; large bucket and a betta fish, if you choose. You may also want to add figurines or other decorative accessories.
How to Grow Peace Lilies in Fish Tanks or Aquariums
The first step is to create a lid from the plastic plant tray, as this will serve as a support for the peace lily. Use a sharp craft knife or scissors to trim the plant tray (or similar object) so that it fits snugly into the opening without falling through. Cut a hole in the center of the plastic. The hole should be about the size of a quarter, but probably no larger than a silver dollar, depending on the size of the root mass. Rinse the decorative rocks or gravel thoroughly (again, no soap) and arrange them in the bottom of the aquarium or fish tank. Pour room temperature distilled water into the aquarium, up to about 2 inches from the rim. (You can also use tap water, but be sure to add a water de-chlorinator, which you can purchase at pet stores.) Remove the soil from the roots of the peace lily. Although you can do this in the sink, the easiest method is to fill a large bucket with water, then swish the roots of the lily gently through the water until ALL of the soil is removed. Once the soil has been removed, trim the roots neatly and evenly so they don’t touch the bottom of the aquarium. Feed the roots through the plastic “lid” with the peace lily plant resting on the top and the roots below. (This is where you will add a betta fish, if you choose to do so.) Insert the lid into the fish bowl or aquarium, with the roots dangling into the water.
Care of Peace Lily in Aquariums
Place the aquarium where the peace lily is exposed to low light, such as under a fluorescent light or near a north- or east-facing window. Change one-quarter of the water every week to keep it clear and clean, especially if you decide to add a fish. Avoid flake food, which will cloud the water very quickly. Remove the fish, clean the tank and fill it with fresh water whenever it begins to look brackish – usually every couple of weeks.
Growing Peace Lily in an Aquarium or Container
Select a wide-based aquarium that holds at least a quart of water. Clear glass is best, especially if you plan to add a betta fish. Pet stores sell inexpensive goldfish bowls that work very well. Rinse the container thoroughly, but don’t use soap.
Select a small to medium-size peace lily with a healthy root system. Be sure the diameter of the peace lily is smaller than the opening of the container. If the opening of the aquarium is too crowded, the plant may not receive enough air. You’ll also need a plastic plant tray; craft knife or scissors; decorative rock, pebbles or aquarium gravel; a jug of distilled water; large bucket and a betta fish, if you choose. You may also want to add figurines or other decorative accessories.
How to Grow Peace Lilies in Fish Tanks or Aquariums
The first step is to create a lid from the plastic plant tray, as this will serve as a support for the peace lily. Use a sharp craft knife or scissors to trim the plant tray (or similar object) so that it fits snugly into the opening without falling through. Cut a hole in the center of the plastic. The hole should be about the size of a quarter, but probably no larger than a silver dollar, depending on the size of the root mass. Rinse the decorative rocks or gravel thoroughly (again, no soap) and arrange them in the bottom of the aquarium or fish tank. Pour room temperature distilled water into the aquarium, up to about 2 inches from the rim. (You can also use tap water, but be sure to add a water de-chlorinator, which you can purchase at pet stores.) Remove the soil from the roots of the peace lily. Although you can do this in the sink, the easiest method is to fill a large bucket with water, then swish the roots of the lily gently through the water until ALL of the soil is removed. Once the soil has been removed, trim the roots neatly and evenly so they don’t touch the bottom of the aquarium. Feed the roots through the plastic “lid” with the peace lily plant resting on the top and the roots below. (This is where you will add a betta fish, if you choose to do so.) Insert the lid into the fish bowl or aquarium, with the roots dangling into the water.
Care of Peace Lily in Aquariums
Place the aquarium where the peace lily is exposed to low light, such as under a fluorescent light or near a north- or east-facing window. Change one-quarter of the water every week to keep it clear and clean, especially if you decide to add a fish. Avoid flake food, which will cloud the water very quickly. Remove the fish, clean the tank and fill it with fresh water whenever it begins to look brackish – usually every couple of weeks.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
A terrarium is a rather old-fashioned but charming way to make a mini garden in a glass container. The effect produced is rather like a tiny forest residing in your home. It is also a fun project that is great for kids and adults. Growing succulent plants in terrariums provides the plants with an easy care situation in which they will thrive. Because succulents do not like wet environments, a few tips and adjustments to the traditional terrarium are required. Read on to find out how to make a succulent terrarium that will keep the little plants happy and healthy.
Succulent Terrarium Instructions
Terrariums and dish gardens have been a part of indoor growing for centuries. Succulent plants seem to like arid conditions and a desert or beach themed terrarium will provide the right conditions while adding some unexpected appeal in the home.
Creating succulent terrariums doesn’t take a lot of time or money. You can literally make one in an old food jar or search a thrift market for an unusual dish or clear container. Then it’s time to plant and add any touches to the diorama. You can make the terrarium as ornate or simple as you wish. The original terrariums were made in elegant Wardian cases, so named for the originator of the idea, Dr. N.B. Ward. Succulents will do well in almost any container. The only trick is to make an open rather than closed system to prevent excess moisture from building up and killing the plant.
Creating Succulent Terrariums
The planting medium for succulents is crucial. Succulents are perfect for terrariums because they grow relatively slowly but the condensation that may build up can kill the little plants if the right medium isn’t used. Line the bottom of the container with fine gravel or rocks. On top of this layer an inch or so of charcoal. This absorbs odors and toxins that may be in the water. Next, place sphagnum moss and top it with cactus soil that has been lightly pre-moistened. Plant the little plants in the cactus mix and firm soil around them. A dowel or stick is helpful in digging the holes and filling around plants. Space plants at least an inch apart (2.5 cm.) so there is adequate air flow. Plants may need a Popsicle stick or small stake for the first few weeks to keep them upright. Now the really fun part happens – designing the terrarium. If you want a beach theme, add some seashells or for a desert look, install some rocks to complement the succulents. There is an almost endless supply of items that will enhance the natural look of the terrarium. Some growers even add ceramic figures to add to the sense of whimsy. Just make sure that anything you are putting into the terrarium has been well washed to avoid bringing in disease.
Succulent Terrarium Care
Place the terrarium in a brightly lit location but avoid direct sun which can scorch the plants inside. An area near a fan or blower is ideal, as this will increase circulation and help prevent damping off. Succulents can’t stand to be overwatered and if they are in standing water they will surely die. Your succulent garden won’t need to be watered very often. Wait until the soil is nearly completely dry before you water. Use tap water that has been off gassed or purchase purified water. Succulent terrarium care is pretty much the same as care of succulents in a pot. These plants thrive on neglect and don’t need supplemental fertilizer but once per year. Over time the succulents should fill in a bit and the whole terrarium will attain a natural appealing appearance.
Succulent Terrarium Instructions
Terrariums and dish gardens have been a part of indoor growing for centuries. Succulent plants seem to like arid conditions and a desert or beach themed terrarium will provide the right conditions while adding some unexpected appeal in the home.
Creating succulent terrariums doesn’t take a lot of time or money. You can literally make one in an old food jar or search a thrift market for an unusual dish or clear container. Then it’s time to plant and add any touches to the diorama. You can make the terrarium as ornate or simple as you wish. The original terrariums were made in elegant Wardian cases, so named for the originator of the idea, Dr. N.B. Ward. Succulents will do well in almost any container. The only trick is to make an open rather than closed system to prevent excess moisture from building up and killing the plant.
Creating Succulent Terrariums
The planting medium for succulents is crucial. Succulents are perfect for terrariums because they grow relatively slowly but the condensation that may build up can kill the little plants if the right medium isn’t used. Line the bottom of the container with fine gravel or rocks. On top of this layer an inch or so of charcoal. This absorbs odors and toxins that may be in the water. Next, place sphagnum moss and top it with cactus soil that has been lightly pre-moistened. Plant the little plants in the cactus mix and firm soil around them. A dowel or stick is helpful in digging the holes and filling around plants. Space plants at least an inch apart (2.5 cm.) so there is adequate air flow. Plants may need a Popsicle stick or small stake for the first few weeks to keep them upright. Now the really fun part happens – designing the terrarium. If you want a beach theme, add some seashells or for a desert look, install some rocks to complement the succulents. There is an almost endless supply of items that will enhance the natural look of the terrarium. Some growers even add ceramic figures to add to the sense of whimsy. Just make sure that anything you are putting into the terrarium has been well washed to avoid bringing in disease.
Succulent Terrarium Care
Place the terrarium in a brightly lit location but avoid direct sun which can scorch the plants inside. An area near a fan or blower is ideal, as this will increase circulation and help prevent damping off. Succulents can’t stand to be overwatered and if they are in standing water they will surely die. Your succulent garden won’t need to be watered very often. Wait until the soil is nearly completely dry before you water. Use tap water that has been off gassed or purchase purified water. Succulent terrarium care is pretty much the same as care of succulents in a pot. These plants thrive on neglect and don’t need supplemental fertilizer but once per year. Over time the succulents should fill in a bit and the whole terrarium will attain a natural appealing appearance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Epiphyllum cactus are also called orchid cactus due to their lovely flowers. The flowers turn into a chubby little fruit filled with tiny seeds. Growing Ephiphyllum seeds will take some patience but it is a rewarding endeavor that will give you more of these beautiful epiphytic cacti. Epiphyllum have flat-leaf stems set in disjointed connections. The stems produce brilliantly colored flowers that may span up to nearly 10 inches in diameter but are more commonly an inch or two. As epiphytes, these plants grow on trees in their native regions. As houseplants, they prefer a lightly gritty soil with peat moss as an addition.
Epiphyllum Cactus Fruit
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
The pods on Epiphyllum plants are edible. The best taste seems to be when they are plump and bright red. Once the fruit begins to shrivel, the seeds are ready to harvest, but the flavor will be off. Epiphyllum seed pods need to have the pulp scooped out in order to harvest the seed. Soak the pulp in water and scoop the pulp. Any floating seeds provide important Epiphyllum cactus seed info, as these are duds and not viable. They should be discarded. Once all the pulp and bad seeds are out, drain off the good seeds and let them air dry. They are now ready to plant.
Growing Epiphyllum Seeds
Create a growing medium of potting soil, peat and fine grit. Choose a shallow container in which to germinate the seeds. Spread the seed across the surface of the soil and then lightly sprinkle some soil mixture over them. Mist the surface deeply and then cover the container with a lid to keep in moisture and promote heat. Once the seedlings have appeared, grow the plants in a bright location with indirect light. Keep the babies lightly moist and remove the cover occasionally to allow them to breathe. Once they are too tall for the lid, you can dispense with it and allow them to continue growing for 7 to 10 months. Then it is time to repot them individually. It can take 5 more years before the new plants bloom, but the wait is worth it as you watch the plant develop.
Epiphyllum Cactus Fruit
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
Epiphyllum flowers have a similar structure to any other bloom. The ovary is at the heart of the flower and will foster the formation of the fruit or seed pod. The petals on Epiphyllum are arranged differently, depending upon the variety. Some are cup-shaped, others bell-shaped and still others funnel-shaped. The arrangement of the petals may be irregular or spoke-like. Once the pollen tipped stamen are ripe, busy insects move from flower to flower, transferring the pollen. If you are lucky and your cactus flowers get pollinated and fertilized, the bloom will drop off and the ovule will begin to swell and turn into Epiphyllum seed pods or fruit. The pods on Epiphyllum plants are the result of a successful fertilization. They are round to oval slightly bumpy bright red fruits, filled with soft pulp and small black seeds. Is Epiphyllum fruit edible? Most cactus fruits are edible and Epiphyllyum is no exception. Epiphyllum cactus fruit have variable flavor, depending upon the cultivar and when the fruit is harvested, but most say it tastes like dragon fruit or even passion fruit.
Epiphyllum Cactus Seed Info
The pods on Epiphyllum plants are edible. The best taste seems to be when they are plump and bright red. Once the fruit begins to shrivel, the seeds are ready to harvest, but the flavor will be off. Epiphyllum seed pods need to have the pulp scooped out in order to harvest the seed. Soak the pulp in water and scoop the pulp. Any floating seeds provide important Epiphyllum cactus seed info, as these are duds and not viable. They should be discarded. Once all the pulp and bad seeds are out, drain off the good seeds and let them air dry. They are now ready to plant.
Growing Epiphyllum Seeds
Create a growing medium of potting soil, peat and fine grit. Choose a shallow container in which to germinate the seeds. Spread the seed across the surface of the soil and then lightly sprinkle some soil mixture over them. Mist the surface deeply and then cover the container with a lid to keep in moisture and promote heat. Once the seedlings have appeared, grow the plants in a bright location with indirect light. Keep the babies lightly moist and remove the cover occasionally to allow them to breathe. Once they are too tall for the lid, you can dispense with it and allow them to continue growing for 7 to 10 months. Then it is time to repot them individually. It can take 5 more years before the new plants bloom, but the wait is worth it as you watch the plant develop.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Can I plant my Christmas cactus outside, you ask? Can Christmas cactus be outside? The answer is yes, but you can only grow the plant outdoors year round if you live in a warm climate because Christmas cactus is definitely not cold hardy. Growing Christmas cactus outdoors is possible only in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and above.
How to Grow a Christmas Cactus Outside
If you live in a cool climate, plant Christmas cactus in a container or hanging basket so you can bring it indoors when temperatures fall below 50 F. (10 C.) Use a well-drained potting medium such as a mixture of potting soil, perlite and orchid bark. A location in light shade or early morning sun is best for growing Christmas cactus outdoors in warmer climates, although a sunnier location is suitable in fall and winter. Beware of intense light, which may bleach the leaves. Temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) are ideal during the growing season. Be careful of sudden changes in light and temperatures, which may cause the buds to drop.
Christmas Cactus Outdoor Care
As part of your care of Christmas cactus outside, you’ll need to water Christmas cactus when the soil is on the dry side, but not bone dry. Don’t overwater Christmas cactus, especially during the winter months. Soggy soil may result in rot, a fungal disease that is usually deadly. Christmas cactus outdoor care involves regular inspection for pests. Watch for mealybugs – tiny, sap-sucking pests that thrive in cool, shady conditions. If you notice telltale white cottony masses, pick them off with a toothpick or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. A Christmas cactus growing outdoors is also susceptible to aphids, scale and mites, which are easily removed by periodic spraying with insecticidal soap spray or neem oil. Trim Christmas cactus in early summer by removing two or three segments. A regular trim will promote full, bushy growth.
How to Grow a Christmas Cactus Outside
If you live in a cool climate, plant Christmas cactus in a container or hanging basket so you can bring it indoors when temperatures fall below 50 F. (10 C.) Use a well-drained potting medium such as a mixture of potting soil, perlite and orchid bark. A location in light shade or early morning sun is best for growing Christmas cactus outdoors in warmer climates, although a sunnier location is suitable in fall and winter. Beware of intense light, which may bleach the leaves. Temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) are ideal during the growing season. Be careful of sudden changes in light and temperatures, which may cause the buds to drop.
Christmas Cactus Outdoor Care
As part of your care of Christmas cactus outside, you’ll need to water Christmas cactus when the soil is on the dry side, but not bone dry. Don’t overwater Christmas cactus, especially during the winter months. Soggy soil may result in rot, a fungal disease that is usually deadly. Christmas cactus outdoor care involves regular inspection for pests. Watch for mealybugs – tiny, sap-sucking pests that thrive in cool, shady conditions. If you notice telltale white cottony masses, pick them off with a toothpick or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. A Christmas cactus growing outdoors is also susceptible to aphids, scale and mites, which are easily removed by periodic spraying with insecticidal soap spray or neem oil. Trim Christmas cactus in early summer by removing two or three segments. A regular trim will promote full, bushy growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Fans of Doctor Seuss illustrated books may find similarity of form in the bizarre boojum tree. The unique architectural shapes of these upright succulents, lend a surreal note to the arid landscape. Growing boojum trees requires bright light and warm temperatures. Among the many interesting boojum tree facts regards its shape. The Spanish name for the tree is Cirio, which means taper or candle.
What is a Boojum Tree?
Boojum trees (Fouquieria columnaris) are native to the Baja California peninsula and parts of the Sonoran desert. The plants are part of rocky hillsides and alluvial plains where water is rare and temperatures may be extreme. What is a boojum tree? The “tree” is actually a striking cacti with an upright form and imposing columnar height. Southern gardeners in arid regions can grow a boojum tree outdoors, while the rest of us will have to content ourselves with greenhouse and interior specimens that will not reach the heights those wild plants can achieve. Cultivated boojum trees may command a price tag of $1000.00 per foot (ouch!). The plants grow slowly, putting on less than a foot of dimension per year and wild harvest is prohibited due to the protected status of this cactus. Boojums in the wild have been found at 70 to 80 feet in height, but cultivated plants are significantly less at only 10 to 20 feet tall. The trees resemble taper candles with tiny bluish-green leaves that drop off when the plant reaches dormancy. These are cool season plants that do the majority of their growth from October to April and then go dormant in the hotter weather. The main stem is succulent and soft while smaller branches appear perpendicular to the trunk. Flowers are creamy white in clusters on the terminal ends of branches from February through March.
Boojum Tree Facts
Boojum trees are named after a mythical thing found in the work, The Hunting of the Snark, by Louis Caroll. Their fantastic form resembles an upside-down carrot and groups of them create quite an astounding display as the vertical trunks snake up from the earth. Boojum trees are quite rare due to seed disputes and their protected wild status. The drought tolerant cacti are perfect in the southwestern landscape and provide vertical appeal that is enhanced by thick-leaved succulents and other xeriscape plants. Gardeners who wish to try growing Boojum trees should have deep pockets, since purchasing even baby plants can be quite expensive. It is illegal to harvest wild plants.
Boojum Tree Care
If you are very lucky, you can try to grow a boojum tree from seed. Seed germination is sporadic and the seeds themselves can be difficult to find. Once seeds are sown, cultivation is similar to any other succulent. The plants need light shade when young but can tolerate full sun when mature. Sandy, well-drained soil is a must with superior drainage, as the worst evil to befall a boojum tree is root rot. Water potted plants once per week when they are actively growing. During dormancy the plant can do with half its normal water needs. Container boojum tree care requires addendum nutrients to supplement the potting mix. Feed the plant in February weekly with balanced fertilizer diluted to half. Growing boojum trees isn’t difficult provided you can find one and you don’t over water or feed the plant.
What is a Boojum Tree?
Boojum trees (Fouquieria columnaris) are native to the Baja California peninsula and parts of the Sonoran desert. The plants are part of rocky hillsides and alluvial plains where water is rare and temperatures may be extreme. What is a boojum tree? The “tree” is actually a striking cacti with an upright form and imposing columnar height. Southern gardeners in arid regions can grow a boojum tree outdoors, while the rest of us will have to content ourselves with greenhouse and interior specimens that will not reach the heights those wild plants can achieve. Cultivated boojum trees may command a price tag of $1000.00 per foot (ouch!). The plants grow slowly, putting on less than a foot of dimension per year and wild harvest is prohibited due to the protected status of this cactus. Boojums in the wild have been found at 70 to 80 feet in height, but cultivated plants are significantly less at only 10 to 20 feet tall. The trees resemble taper candles with tiny bluish-green leaves that drop off when the plant reaches dormancy. These are cool season plants that do the majority of their growth from October to April and then go dormant in the hotter weather. The main stem is succulent and soft while smaller branches appear perpendicular to the trunk. Flowers are creamy white in clusters on the terminal ends of branches from February through March.
Boojum Tree Facts
Boojum trees are named after a mythical thing found in the work, The Hunting of the Snark, by Louis Caroll. Their fantastic form resembles an upside-down carrot and groups of them create quite an astounding display as the vertical trunks snake up from the earth. Boojum trees are quite rare due to seed disputes and their protected wild status. The drought tolerant cacti are perfect in the southwestern landscape and provide vertical appeal that is enhanced by thick-leaved succulents and other xeriscape plants. Gardeners who wish to try growing Boojum trees should have deep pockets, since purchasing even baby plants can be quite expensive. It is illegal to harvest wild plants.
Boojum Tree Care
If you are very lucky, you can try to grow a boojum tree from seed. Seed germination is sporadic and the seeds themselves can be difficult to find. Once seeds are sown, cultivation is similar to any other succulent. The plants need light shade when young but can tolerate full sun when mature. Sandy, well-drained soil is a must with superior drainage, as the worst evil to befall a boojum tree is root rot. Water potted plants once per week when they are actively growing. During dormancy the plant can do with half its normal water needs. Container boojum tree care requires addendum nutrients to supplement the potting mix. Feed the plant in February weekly with balanced fertilizer diluted to half. Growing boojum trees isn’t difficult provided you can find one and you don’t over water or feed the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Aeoniums are fleshy leaved succulents that grow in a pronounced rosette shape. Growing aeoniums is easy in areas with few freezes. They can also grow indoors, in a sunny window where temperatures are toasty warm. Learn how to grow an aeonium plant for unique texture and form in both indoor and outdoor garden displays.
What Are Aeoniums?
Succulent plants have a special adaptive survival strategy for hot, dry locations. They come in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. What are aeoniums? These plants also have the fleshy leaved characteristic of succulents, where they store moisture. Unlike many other succulents, however, aeonium have shallow root systems and cannot be allowed to dry out completely. Only the top few inches of soil should be allowed to dry out when growing aeoniums. There are over 35 aeonium species, in a graduating range of sizes.
Aeonium Uses
Consider growing aeoniums as part of a cactus or succulent display. They do well in shallow pots with a mixture of cactus soil and peat. You can combine them with other plants such as aloe, agave or jade plants. Place a thin layer of inorganic mulch such as ornamental rock around the plants and place in a sunny warm location. For outdoor use, place them along sunny borders or in rockeries. In temperate or cooler zones, frost may kill the foliage and the rosette will fall off. If the plant is mulched it will grow anew in spring.
How to Grow an Aeonium Plant
Provide the plant with well-drained soil in a sunny location. They prefer temperatures between 40 and 100 F. (4-38 C.). These succulents are very easy to grow from cuttings. You really just have to cut off a rosette and let the cut end dry out for a couple of days. Then set it in lightly moist peat moss. The piece will root quickly and produce a new plant.
Caring for Aeonium Plants
Aeonium care is remarkably easy. Plants in containers require more frequent watering than those in ground. Fertilize aeonium in containers once annually in spring when new growth commences. In-ground plants rarely need fertilizer, but may benefit from a light coating of mulch just around the base of the plant. Be careful not to pile it up around the stem or rot might set in. The most common problems when caring for aeonium plants are root rot and insects. Root rot is prevented by using clay pots with good drainage or checking soil percolation prior to planting. Keep the roots moist but never soggy. Good aeonium care also requires you to watch for pests. Mites and scale may attach the succulents. Combat these with horticultural soaps or neem oil. Be careful when using soap spays, however. Spraying too frequently can cause discoloration and lesions on the skin of the plant.
What Are Aeoniums?
Succulent plants have a special adaptive survival strategy for hot, dry locations. They come in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. What are aeoniums? These plants also have the fleshy leaved characteristic of succulents, where they store moisture. Unlike many other succulents, however, aeonium have shallow root systems and cannot be allowed to dry out completely. Only the top few inches of soil should be allowed to dry out when growing aeoniums. There are over 35 aeonium species, in a graduating range of sizes.
Aeonium Uses
Consider growing aeoniums as part of a cactus or succulent display. They do well in shallow pots with a mixture of cactus soil and peat. You can combine them with other plants such as aloe, agave or jade plants. Place a thin layer of inorganic mulch such as ornamental rock around the plants and place in a sunny warm location. For outdoor use, place them along sunny borders or in rockeries. In temperate or cooler zones, frost may kill the foliage and the rosette will fall off. If the plant is mulched it will grow anew in spring.
How to Grow an Aeonium Plant
Provide the plant with well-drained soil in a sunny location. They prefer temperatures between 40 and 100 F. (4-38 C.). These succulents are very easy to grow from cuttings. You really just have to cut off a rosette and let the cut end dry out for a couple of days. Then set it in lightly moist peat moss. The piece will root quickly and produce a new plant.
Caring for Aeonium Plants
Aeonium care is remarkably easy. Plants in containers require more frequent watering than those in ground. Fertilize aeonium in containers once annually in spring when new growth commences. In-ground plants rarely need fertilizer, but may benefit from a light coating of mulch just around the base of the plant. Be careful not to pile it up around the stem or rot might set in. The most common problems when caring for aeonium plants are root rot and insects. Root rot is prevented by using clay pots with good drainage or checking soil percolation prior to planting. Keep the roots moist but never soggy. Good aeonium care also requires you to watch for pests. Mites and scale may attach the succulents. Combat these with horticultural soaps or neem oil. Be careful when using soap spays, however. Spraying too frequently can cause discoloration and lesions on the skin of the plant.
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