文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
By the time the leaves change and the first storms of winter approach, the intrepid gardener is itching for some living green thing to nurture and bring color to the home. Flaming katy kalanchoe is an ideal plant to chase away the winter doldrums. In most zones the plant is used as an interior plant, but growing flaming katy outdoors is possible in the warmer climates. The shiny green, scalloped leaves and brilliant flowers enliven any situation and care for flaming katy is a breeze. Discover how to grow flaming katy plants and charge up your interior with some vibrant tones and unique foliage.
Information on Flaming Katy Kalanchoe
Flaming katy is grouped with the succulent variety of plants. This lovely specimen if often found in the gift floral section of your local supermarket or big box nursery, but don’t let its availability fool you. Flaming katy houseplant is a spectacle to behold, especially if you are starved for color and a new plant buddy. The leaves are thick and waxy like a jade plant but have a sculpted edge. Plants get about 12 inches high and just a little smaller in width. The flowers are a real show stopper in bright colors like pink, yellow, orange and red. The plants require well drained soil and prefer drier conditions. Flaming katy houseplants that get overwatered will show their displeasure with yellowing, dropping leaves and rotten stems.
How to Grow Flaming Katy Plants
Kalanchoe is familiar as a houseplant but it is possible to grow them outside too. They need bright sun and temperatures of 65 to 70 F. (18-21 C.). The plants are native to Madagascar and do not tolerate boggy soil, cold temperatures or shade. Even a light freeze can kill the plant, but it makes an excellent patio plant in summer. Bring it inside when cold temperatures threaten and use it as a houseplant. Growing this plant from seed is not recommended. Starts are relatively cheap and thrive and grow quickly in sun to part shade. Lower light conditions promote greener foliage and the plants will still fill with blooms. Flaming katy kalanchoe needs at least six weeks of shorter days and up to 12 for more compact blooms. Use a sandy potting mix for container outdoor plants and amend garden beds with plenty of grit to ensure drainage. You rarely need to water unless you have endlessly hot, dry days. Apply water from the base of the plant to prevent water spotting and rot on the leaves. Allow the top of the soil to completely dry out before watering again.
The importance of not overwatering cannot be stressed enough. The moderate moisture needs of the plant are one of the keys to care for flaming katy. During the blooming season, fertilize monthly with a diluted flowering plant food. Remove spent flowers and pinch off any dead leaves to enhance the appearance of the plant. It is a lovely foliage plant even when not in bloom and the thick leaves store moisture. Lightly wrinkled leaves signal that it is time to water. Follow these hints on care for flaming katy and you will have a proven winner for many seasons to come.
Information on Flaming Katy Kalanchoe
Flaming katy is grouped with the succulent variety of plants. This lovely specimen if often found in the gift floral section of your local supermarket or big box nursery, but don’t let its availability fool you. Flaming katy houseplant is a spectacle to behold, especially if you are starved for color and a new plant buddy. The leaves are thick and waxy like a jade plant but have a sculpted edge. Plants get about 12 inches high and just a little smaller in width. The flowers are a real show stopper in bright colors like pink, yellow, orange and red. The plants require well drained soil and prefer drier conditions. Flaming katy houseplants that get overwatered will show their displeasure with yellowing, dropping leaves and rotten stems.
How to Grow Flaming Katy Plants
Kalanchoe is familiar as a houseplant but it is possible to grow them outside too. They need bright sun and temperatures of 65 to 70 F. (18-21 C.). The plants are native to Madagascar and do not tolerate boggy soil, cold temperatures or shade. Even a light freeze can kill the plant, but it makes an excellent patio plant in summer. Bring it inside when cold temperatures threaten and use it as a houseplant. Growing this plant from seed is not recommended. Starts are relatively cheap and thrive and grow quickly in sun to part shade. Lower light conditions promote greener foliage and the plants will still fill with blooms. Flaming katy kalanchoe needs at least six weeks of shorter days and up to 12 for more compact blooms. Use a sandy potting mix for container outdoor plants and amend garden beds with plenty of grit to ensure drainage. You rarely need to water unless you have endlessly hot, dry days. Apply water from the base of the plant to prevent water spotting and rot on the leaves. Allow the top of the soil to completely dry out before watering again.
The importance of not overwatering cannot be stressed enough. The moderate moisture needs of the plant are one of the keys to care for flaming katy. During the blooming season, fertilize monthly with a diluted flowering plant food. Remove spent flowers and pinch off any dead leaves to enhance the appearance of the plant. It is a lovely foliage plant even when not in bloom and the thick leaves store moisture. Lightly wrinkled leaves signal that it is time to water. Follow these hints on care for flaming katy and you will have a proven winner for many seasons to come.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
You’re likely accustomed to leaving potted plants out over summer, but if some of your favorite perennial plants are frost tender where you live, they’ll be damaged or killed if you leave them outside during winter. But by bringing plants indoors for the winter, you can protect them against the harmful consequences of cold weather. After bringing plants indoors, however, the key to keeping plants alive over winter depends on what type of plants you have and the growing environment you provide them.
Winter Plant Care
How to keep plants alive over winter (by overwintering plants in pots indoors) means you first have to make room for the plants, which is sometimes easier said than done. Although you may have enough room in certain locations in your house, if the plants don’t receive enough light, they may begin to decline.
Tip: Before bringing plants indoors, install some hanging basket hooks or shelves in front of bright windows. You’ll have an overhead winter garden that keeps plants from cluttering your floor space. Other than giving your plants sufficient light while they’re indoors, a key to keeping plants alive through winter is providing the temperature and humidity they need. If you place the pots near a heating vent or a drafty window, the fluctuations in temperature may place too much stress on plants.
To increase the humidity around plants, set the pots on top of pebbles in a water-filled tray or dish, and keep the water level below the base of the containers.
When to Start Overwintering Plants in Pots
Most houseplants are tropical plants, which enjoy a little “summer vacation” in pots on your patio or deck. However, when the nighttime temperatures dip to 50 degrees F. (10 C.), it’s time to start bringing plants indoors to keep them alive during the winter. Caladiums, lilies and plants that grow from bulbs, tubers and other bulb-like structures, may go through a “resting period.” After an active growth period, some plant’s leaves and stems begin to fade or turn yellow, and the plant typically dies all the way to the ground. Even though these plants go through a dormant stage in winter, some (such as caladiums) need warm winter plant care while others (such as dahlias) respond better to chillier temperatures. A heated closet inside your home is suitable for overwintering caladium tubers, but an unheated location (40-50 degrees F. or 4-10 degrees C.) will work better for dahlias. Before bringing in your entire garden of plants for the winter, know your USDA plant hardiness zone. This determines the lowest temperature at which different plants will survive the winter outside. When you buy plants, look on the manufacturer’s tag to find the hardiness information.
Winter Plant Care
How to keep plants alive over winter (by overwintering plants in pots indoors) means you first have to make room for the plants, which is sometimes easier said than done. Although you may have enough room in certain locations in your house, if the plants don’t receive enough light, they may begin to decline.
Tip: Before bringing plants indoors, install some hanging basket hooks or shelves in front of bright windows. You’ll have an overhead winter garden that keeps plants from cluttering your floor space. Other than giving your plants sufficient light while they’re indoors, a key to keeping plants alive through winter is providing the temperature and humidity they need. If you place the pots near a heating vent or a drafty window, the fluctuations in temperature may place too much stress on plants.
To increase the humidity around plants, set the pots on top of pebbles in a water-filled tray or dish, and keep the water level below the base of the containers.
When to Start Overwintering Plants in Pots
Most houseplants are tropical plants, which enjoy a little “summer vacation” in pots on your patio or deck. However, when the nighttime temperatures dip to 50 degrees F. (10 C.), it’s time to start bringing plants indoors to keep them alive during the winter. Caladiums, lilies and plants that grow from bulbs, tubers and other bulb-like structures, may go through a “resting period.” After an active growth period, some plant’s leaves and stems begin to fade or turn yellow, and the plant typically dies all the way to the ground. Even though these plants go through a dormant stage in winter, some (such as caladiums) need warm winter plant care while others (such as dahlias) respond better to chillier temperatures. A heated closet inside your home is suitable for overwintering caladium tubers, but an unheated location (40-50 degrees F. or 4-10 degrees C.) will work better for dahlias. Before bringing in your entire garden of plants for the winter, know your USDA plant hardiness zone. This determines the lowest temperature at which different plants will survive the winter outside. When you buy plants, look on the manufacturer’s tag to find the hardiness information.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Winter mold, mustiness and damp in the home are caused by excess humidity. The problem happens in warm, muggy regions too. Dehumidifiers and other solutions can have some effect but plants are a prettier, more natural way to remove some of the clammy air and damp ambiance. Humidity absorbing houseplants serve dual purpose as they harvest the moisture they need from the air and bring the outdoors in.
Reducing Humidity with Plants
Using plants in the home can be useful in many ways. One of the more interesting is their use as dehumidifiers. What plants absorb humidity? Actually, most plants harvest some moisture from the air through their leaves, but a few are extremely efficient at the process and take much of their moisture through their leaves. This is good news since high moisture levels in the home can be associated with respiratory problems and threaten the structure of your house.
You may wonder how plants can reduce humidity in the home. The answer is found in a plant’s foliar uptake. This is its ability to absorb dew, fog or other forms of vaporous moisture through the stoma in the leaves. This moisture moves into the xylem and then down the roots. Plants that like moist soil are more likely to evolve this adaptation, but some plants in arid areas with little rainfall may also be able to process moisture in this manner. Therefore, if you pick the right plants that absorb humidity, you can reduce the excess ambient moisture in your home and prevent mold and mildew issues.
What Plants Absorb Humidity?
Unless you are going for a rainforest effect in the home, too much damp, sticky air does not produce the tropical sultry tones found in such places. In fact, you are more likely to have musty curtains and other fabrics, clammy surfaces and weeping walls. The peace lily is one attractive foliar plant with an interesting spathe that will help reduce moisture in the air. Classic Victorian era plants such as English ivy, parlor palm and Boston fern provide elegant notes to décor while removing some of that stickiness from the air. It is possible that reducing humidity with plants like these can help keep excess moisture from the air and possibly save your sagging wallpaper and musty back room.
The plants listed above all tolerate or crave moisture but a surprise plant for reducing humidity is Tillandsia, which cannot tolerate excess moisture at all. However, it absorbs most of its moisture from the air, making it great for absorbing humidity. This is because it is an epiphyte and does not live in soil. Instead, the plant attaches to a log or rock, inserts itself into a tree crotch or snuggles into a crevasse. This little plant is also called air plant because of its epiphytic nature and ability to live in a soilless situation and still feed and water itself. The fun part about Tillandsia is the many forms, some of which have bright flowers. You can also mount Tillandsia on many different media or simply place them in a decorative bowl or directly on a shelf. They are easy to care for and may eventually produce little pups that you can divide, making even more humidity absorbing houseplants.
Reducing Humidity with Plants
Using plants in the home can be useful in many ways. One of the more interesting is their use as dehumidifiers. What plants absorb humidity? Actually, most plants harvest some moisture from the air through their leaves, but a few are extremely efficient at the process and take much of their moisture through their leaves. This is good news since high moisture levels in the home can be associated with respiratory problems and threaten the structure of your house.
You may wonder how plants can reduce humidity in the home. The answer is found in a plant’s foliar uptake. This is its ability to absorb dew, fog or other forms of vaporous moisture through the stoma in the leaves. This moisture moves into the xylem and then down the roots. Plants that like moist soil are more likely to evolve this adaptation, but some plants in arid areas with little rainfall may also be able to process moisture in this manner. Therefore, if you pick the right plants that absorb humidity, you can reduce the excess ambient moisture in your home and prevent mold and mildew issues.
What Plants Absorb Humidity?
Unless you are going for a rainforest effect in the home, too much damp, sticky air does not produce the tropical sultry tones found in such places. In fact, you are more likely to have musty curtains and other fabrics, clammy surfaces and weeping walls. The peace lily is one attractive foliar plant with an interesting spathe that will help reduce moisture in the air. Classic Victorian era plants such as English ivy, parlor palm and Boston fern provide elegant notes to décor while removing some of that stickiness from the air. It is possible that reducing humidity with plants like these can help keep excess moisture from the air and possibly save your sagging wallpaper and musty back room.
The plants listed above all tolerate or crave moisture but a surprise plant for reducing humidity is Tillandsia, which cannot tolerate excess moisture at all. However, it absorbs most of its moisture from the air, making it great for absorbing humidity. This is because it is an epiphyte and does not live in soil. Instead, the plant attaches to a log or rock, inserts itself into a tree crotch or snuggles into a crevasse. This little plant is also called air plant because of its epiphytic nature and ability to live in a soilless situation and still feed and water itself. The fun part about Tillandsia is the many forms, some of which have bright flowers. You can also mount Tillandsia on many different media or simply place them in a decorative bowl or directly on a shelf. They are easy to care for and may eventually produce little pups that you can divide, making even more humidity absorbing houseplants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids bloom at various times throughout the year depending on the species and growing conditions. Cattleyas and phalaenopsis, for instance, tend to bloom in the spring while cymbidiums and oncidiums generally bloom in the winter. The flower stems will dry up and turn brown after the flowers fall, at which time they can be cut off. Where the stem or spike should be cut depends on the type, health and maturity of the orchid.
Orchids in General
The general rule of thumb when cutting spent flower stems or spikes from orchids is to cut them off at the base. This should be done on cattleyas, cymbidiums, dendrobiums, epidendrums, paphiopedilums, phragmipediums and vandas. After these orchids have bloomed, they will not produce any more flowers on the flower spike. There is no need to leave the spike on the orchid until the whole thing turns brown. It can be removed as soon as the flowers drop and the tip of the spike turns brown. As long as the orchid is healthy and growing conditions are right, it will put out a new spike for the next bloom season.
Phalaenopsis Orchids
Phalaenopsis orchids produce multiple blooms on the same spike. Most types of phalaenopsis can have the spike cut back to just above a healthy growth node when the flowers drop and the spike begins to turn brown. Growth nodes are raised triangular flaps of plant tissue on the flower spike. The healthy phal will grow new spikes from the growth node and bloom from those. Small, young phals that are less than 1 foot tall or those that are not growing vigorously should not be allowed to try to rebloom. Their flower spikes should be removed at the base of the spike as soon as the blooms drop. Some orchid growers always cut the spike off at the base to prevent reblooming regardless of the size, health or maturity of the orchid. Blooming saps energy from the plant, resulting in slower plant growth.
Amboninsis, Cornu-cervi and Violacia
Descendants
Phalaenopsis orchids that are descendants of amboninsis, cornu-cervi, violacia and similar orchids bloom continuously from the same flower spike. The spikes on these phals should not be cut unless they grow too long. If the spike has grown so long that it has become unsightly, it can be cut back to just above a growth node. It can also be removed at the base in the spring to give the orchid a rest and encourage new plant growth.
Oncidiums (Psychopsis)
Some types of oncidiums (psychopsis), such as papilio or butterfly orchid, should not have the flower spikes cut when the blooms drop. These orchids will bloom on the same spike for years. The spikes can grow to 2 feet long. The flower spike should be removed at the base when the orchid is repotted to reduce stress while it becomes re-established. Use a good potting medium that breaks down very slowly to allow as much time as possible between repottings.
Orchids in General
The general rule of thumb when cutting spent flower stems or spikes from orchids is to cut them off at the base. This should be done on cattleyas, cymbidiums, dendrobiums, epidendrums, paphiopedilums, phragmipediums and vandas. After these orchids have bloomed, they will not produce any more flowers on the flower spike. There is no need to leave the spike on the orchid until the whole thing turns brown. It can be removed as soon as the flowers drop and the tip of the spike turns brown. As long as the orchid is healthy and growing conditions are right, it will put out a new spike for the next bloom season.
Phalaenopsis Orchids
Phalaenopsis orchids produce multiple blooms on the same spike. Most types of phalaenopsis can have the spike cut back to just above a healthy growth node when the flowers drop and the spike begins to turn brown. Growth nodes are raised triangular flaps of plant tissue on the flower spike. The healthy phal will grow new spikes from the growth node and bloom from those. Small, young phals that are less than 1 foot tall or those that are not growing vigorously should not be allowed to try to rebloom. Their flower spikes should be removed at the base of the spike as soon as the blooms drop. Some orchid growers always cut the spike off at the base to prevent reblooming regardless of the size, health or maturity of the orchid. Blooming saps energy from the plant, resulting in slower plant growth.
Amboninsis, Cornu-cervi and Violacia
Descendants
Phalaenopsis orchids that are descendants of amboninsis, cornu-cervi, violacia and similar orchids bloom continuously from the same flower spike. The spikes on these phals should not be cut unless they grow too long. If the spike has grown so long that it has become unsightly, it can be cut back to just above a growth node. It can also be removed at the base in the spring to give the orchid a rest and encourage new plant growth.
Oncidiums (Psychopsis)
Some types of oncidiums (psychopsis), such as papilio or butterfly orchid, should not have the flower spikes cut when the blooms drop. These orchids will bloom on the same spike for years. The spikes can grow to 2 feet long. The flower spike should be removed at the base when the orchid is repotted to reduce stress while it becomes re-established. Use a good potting medium that breaks down very slowly to allow as much time as possible between repottings.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
If you live in a growing zone where the ground freezes, you'll need to cover your Knock Out roses (Rosa 'Radrazz') with protective materials to get them ready for winter. Knock Out roses, including other varieties such as Double Knock Out (Rosa hybrida 'Radtko'), are hardy in United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 9. In those warmer zones where the ground doesn't freeze, you might find that the bushes are some of the most carefree plants you have because they won't require deadheading or much special winter care.
Water in Late Fall
The time to start thinking about the winterizing process is long before winter actually arrives. As the temperatures start to drop in the autumn, but before the first hard freeze -- which will be at different times, depending on your growing zone -- give your roses a good, deep watering. Knock Out roses need about 1 inch per week on a regular basis. Moist soil will help protect the plant's roots from damage. Also stop feeding the plants additional nitrogen as the days get cooler.
Tie Canes Together
Knock Out roses can grow as high as 5 to 8 feet tall, possibly putting them in danger of breakage from the weight of winter snow -- but since they're an "own root" species that grow from their own roots, they're vigorous plants that will survive the onslaught. Fall pruning is not recommended, suggests University of Illinois Extension Master Gardener Judy Penticoff on the Rockford Register Star website.
For bush or shrub-type roses -- including Knock Outs -- the Ohio State University Extension recommends loosely tying the canes together near their tops with string, taking care not to bend the canes.
Add Protective Layers
If you live in USDA zone 5 or lower, take additional steps to protect your Knock Out roses. As a general rule, roses need additional protection from the winter cold when the temperatures drop to 20 degrees Fahrenheit for a few days on end, suggests Colorado State University Extension. After tying the canes together, place 8 to 10 inches of garden soil around the bottom of the shrub, or use other types of mulch. Leaves, shredded newspaper, pine needles or other organic matter are all suitable choices. To further protect your roses, cover the entire shrub with burlap material, or purchase winterizing cylinders from a garden supply store. Pile mulch around the shrub, cover with the cone, and then place a heavy rock or brick on top to keep the cylinder from blowing away in the winter winds.
Care for Knock Outs in Warmer Climates
Knock Out roses were designed to be winter-hardy and low-maintenance, so in warm growing zones without a hard frost and plant dieback, you may be tempted to simply leave them to do their thing. But low-maintenance doesn't mean no-maintenance, reminds University of Florida master gardener Paula Wetherby of the Florida Times-Union. In warm climates, you still need to plant your Knock Out roses in an area that gets good soil drainage and air flow and at least four to six hours of sunlight. Wherever you live, your "winterizing" tasks will also include pruning your Knock Out roses in late winter, before new growth appears. Using pruning tools that you've wiped down with a solution of 1 part bleach to 2 parts water, cut the shrub back to half its height and width, making cuts at a 45-degree angle just above a bud nodule.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Many of us are familiar with cyclamen as a charming florist’s plant that brightens up the indoor environment during the gloomy winter months. What we may not realize, however, is that cyclamen, a cousin to the cheery little primrose, is actually native to the Mediterranean and surrounding areas. In the home garden, cyclamen is often grown in woodland settings, although many types of cyclamen plants thrive in Alpine meadows. The typical florist cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) is only one of many cyclamen plant types. In fact, there are more than 20 species within the genus. Read on for a small sampling of cyclamen plant types and cyclamen varieties.
Cyclamen Plant Types and Cyclamen Varieties
Cyclamen heredifolium, also known as ivy-leaved cyclamen, is a robust species that tolerates relatively cold winters. In the United States, it has naturalized in parts of the Pacific Northwest. This autumn-flowering species, popular and easy to grow in the home garden, blooms in shades of pink or white tinged with pink. Grow C. heredifolium in Zones 5 through 7. Cyclamen varieties within this species include: ‘Nettleton Silver’ ‘Pewter White’ ‘Silver Arrow’‘Silver Cloud’ ‘Bowle’s Apollo’ ‘White Cloud’ Cyclamen coum sports quarter-sized green or patterned, rounded or heart-shaped leaves that typically appear in autumn. Small, bright flowers poke up through the foliage in midwinter. This species is hardy to USDA zones 6 and above.
Varieties of C. coum include several cultivars within the ‘Pewter Leaf’ group as well as the following: ‘Album’ ‘Maurice Dryden’ ‘Something Magic’ ‘Rubrum’ ‘Silver Leaf’ ‘Blush’ Cyclamen graecum can be difficult to grow and often isn’t as vigorous as other varieties. However, this species is stunning, with velvety, deep green foliage in vivid colors and patterns. Tiny blooms, sometimes sweetly scented, rise just above the foliage in late summer and autumn. This tender variety is suitable for zones 7 through 9. Cyclamen plant varieties within the C. graecum species include ‘Glyfada’ and ‘Rhodopou.’
Cyclamen mirabile is a charming fall bloomer that produces dainty little flowers and decorative, silver dollar-sized leaves in patterns of green and silver. This species grows in zones 6 through 8. Varieties of C. mirabile include ‘Tilebarn Ann,’ ‘Tilebarn Nicholas’ and ‘Tilebarn Jan.’
Cyclamen Plant Types and Cyclamen Varieties
Cyclamen heredifolium, also known as ivy-leaved cyclamen, is a robust species that tolerates relatively cold winters. In the United States, it has naturalized in parts of the Pacific Northwest. This autumn-flowering species, popular and easy to grow in the home garden, blooms in shades of pink or white tinged with pink. Grow C. heredifolium in Zones 5 through 7. Cyclamen varieties within this species include: ‘Nettleton Silver’ ‘Pewter White’ ‘Silver Arrow’‘Silver Cloud’ ‘Bowle’s Apollo’ ‘White Cloud’ Cyclamen coum sports quarter-sized green or patterned, rounded or heart-shaped leaves that typically appear in autumn. Small, bright flowers poke up through the foliage in midwinter. This species is hardy to USDA zones 6 and above.
Varieties of C. coum include several cultivars within the ‘Pewter Leaf’ group as well as the following: ‘Album’ ‘Maurice Dryden’ ‘Something Magic’ ‘Rubrum’ ‘Silver Leaf’ ‘Blush’ Cyclamen graecum can be difficult to grow and often isn’t as vigorous as other varieties. However, this species is stunning, with velvety, deep green foliage in vivid colors and patterns. Tiny blooms, sometimes sweetly scented, rise just above the foliage in late summer and autumn. This tender variety is suitable for zones 7 through 9. Cyclamen plant varieties within the C. graecum species include ‘Glyfada’ and ‘Rhodopou.’
Cyclamen mirabile is a charming fall bloomer that produces dainty little flowers and decorative, silver dollar-sized leaves in patterns of green and silver. This species grows in zones 6 through 8. Varieties of C. mirabile include ‘Tilebarn Ann,’ ‘Tilebarn Nicholas’ and ‘Tilebarn Jan.’
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose hips are the fruit developed by rose plants after bloom and they mature on the rose plant through the fall and often into winter if left in place. Most species of roses produce hips in some size and amount, but old garden, heirloom and classic shrub roses will tend to develop more of them than modern, highly bred cultivars, according to the University of Illinois. Pruning rose hips can be done at several points in their development, depending entirely on your goals for plant performance and the look you like in your garden. Rose hips are edible for humans and contain high levels of vitamin C and are prized by birds and other animals as a food source.
Step 1
Harvest fresh rose hips at their peak ripeness in the fall. The rose hips are ripe when they become swollen, the skin becomes a deep rich orange or a bright red, the skin is still relatively smooth and they give just slightly when pressed with your thumb. Allow roughly four months after the first flowers have been pollinated for rose hips to develop and be ready for harvest.
Step 2
Groom the rose hip clusters on your plants during the late summer, fall or early winter by selectively removing single rose hips that may have become discolored, damaged or simply look unsightly. Cut the single hips on the thin, short stem that connects the single rose hip to the larger cluster and discard the cutting. Make the cut carefully so as not to disturb or sever the healthy hips from the cluster.
Step 3
Prune away any dried and dessicated rose hips leftover on the plant in early spring after the last hard frost has passed. During the winter, animals or inclement weather will usually strip the hips from the rose plants, but occasionally some remain tethered. Cut back the rose cane to a point of live wood, below where the hips are attached, just 1/8 to 1/4 inch above a healthy bud or leaf axil. The dried-up hips can be composted or discarded.
Step 1
Harvest fresh rose hips at their peak ripeness in the fall. The rose hips are ripe when they become swollen, the skin becomes a deep rich orange or a bright red, the skin is still relatively smooth and they give just slightly when pressed with your thumb. Allow roughly four months after the first flowers have been pollinated for rose hips to develop and be ready for harvest.
Step 2
Groom the rose hip clusters on your plants during the late summer, fall or early winter by selectively removing single rose hips that may have become discolored, damaged or simply look unsightly. Cut the single hips on the thin, short stem that connects the single rose hip to the larger cluster and discard the cutting. Make the cut carefully so as not to disturb or sever the healthy hips from the cluster.
Step 3
Prune away any dried and dessicated rose hips leftover on the plant in early spring after the last hard frost has passed. During the winter, animals or inclement weather will usually strip the hips from the rose plants, but occasionally some remain tethered. Cut back the rose cane to a point of live wood, below where the hips are attached, just 1/8 to 1/4 inch above a healthy bud or leaf axil. The dried-up hips can be composted or discarded.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The time to plant, and which variety of rose will succeed in your Ohio rose garden, depends on whether you live in north or south Ohio. Hybrid tea roses, for instance, require winter protection in northern Ohio, but not in the south. The time to prune a rose bush is the same, though, for all Ohio gardeners.
Significance
Rose bushes require pruning for a number of reasons, chief among them is to clear out overgrowth to allow for better air circulation within the plant. Roses are susceptible to fungal diseases that thrive when air circulation within the plant is impeded.
The Facts
Ask any number of rosarians how to prune a rose bush and you will get that many different answers. There is no one "right" way to prune. At the least, prune to thin the growth in the middle of the plant. Cut branches that cross over one another and prune to keep the plant to the size you desire.
Timing
Prime rose pruning times in Ohio gardens are during March and into early April. Heirloom roses, also known as old garden roses, should be pruned immediately after they finish blooming.
Significance
Rose bushes require pruning for a number of reasons, chief among them is to clear out overgrowth to allow for better air circulation within the plant. Roses are susceptible to fungal diseases that thrive when air circulation within the plant is impeded.
The Facts
Ask any number of rosarians how to prune a rose bush and you will get that many different answers. There is no one "right" way to prune. At the least, prune to thin the growth in the middle of the plant. Cut branches that cross over one another and prune to keep the plant to the size you desire.
Timing
Prime rose pruning times in Ohio gardens are during March and into early April. Heirloom roses, also known as old garden roses, should be pruned immediately after they finish blooming.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Losing its leaves in winter, the confederate rose is no rose but instead a member of the hibiscus family. Hibiscus mutabilis matures at up to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide if never pruned or killed back by hard winter freezes. Appropriate to grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture Hardiness Zones 7 through 10, the winter cold in zones 7 and 8 often causes this tree to become a much smaller multi-stemmed shrub. The large green, maple-like leaves make an attractive foil to the white-to-pink to deep-lavender changing flowers that don the branch tips in late summer through autumn.
Step 1
Prune off any broken or dead branches on the confederate rose bush any time you encounter them. Make the pruning cut 1/4 to 1/2 inch above a lower branch junction, leaf or dormant bud if no leaves are present.
Step 2
Reduce the length of any branch or trunk in early spring to a height of 12 to 36 inches. Since larger diameter branches occur lower in the confederate rose, use loppers if they're wider than 3/4 inch in diameter. Time this reduction or rejuvenation pruning for just before the buds begin to swell and the leaves unfurl. In subtropical areas, this may mean pruning in late winter.
Step 3
Clip off any suckering, thin shoots from the main trunk or larger, healthy stems on the confederate rose any time of year, too. Make the cuts flush with their attachment to the main trunk or even with the soil line.
Step 4
Trim off old flowers once they fade if you do not want the seed capsules to form on the branches. Some find them attractively curious, as the seed capsules are fuzzy and split open to reveal a cottony core with seeds.
Step 1
Prune off any broken or dead branches on the confederate rose bush any time you encounter them. Make the pruning cut 1/4 to 1/2 inch above a lower branch junction, leaf or dormant bud if no leaves are present.
Step 2
Reduce the length of any branch or trunk in early spring to a height of 12 to 36 inches. Since larger diameter branches occur lower in the confederate rose, use loppers if they're wider than 3/4 inch in diameter. Time this reduction or rejuvenation pruning for just before the buds begin to swell and the leaves unfurl. In subtropical areas, this may mean pruning in late winter.
Step 3
Clip off any suckering, thin shoots from the main trunk or larger, healthy stems on the confederate rose any time of year, too. Make the cuts flush with their attachment to the main trunk or even with the soil line.
Step 4
Trim off old flowers once they fade if you do not want the seed capsules to form on the branches. Some find them attractively curious, as the seed capsules are fuzzy and split open to reveal a cottony core with seeds.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The United States Department of Agriculture has created a map of numbered plant hardiness zones, and these zones represent areas of the United States having similar average low temperatures in winter. The lower the zone number, the harsher the winter. Roses typically grow in warm climates, and flower in the summer months, but some roses can grow in the hot tropical climate found in Florida, while others can grow in hardiness zones as low as 2, which have winter temperatures that drop as low as -50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Tropical Climate
The south of Florida has a tropical climate, enjoying long, hot humid summers. A number of rose species grow well in this climate, and are able to tolerate periods of drought that other other roses do not tolerate. Most of the roses that grow well in this climate originated in China, and came to the United States via Europe. The most common China rose grown in the hot dry conditions prevailing in south and central Florida is Old Blush, otherwise known as Parson's Pink China. Another variety of roses that flourish in hot dry climates are Noisettes, named after the Charleston nursery owner Philip Noisette who first cultivated these roses from seeds, and Bermuda roses, which come from the Atlantic island of Bermuda.
Wind And Low Humidity
The climate of Colorado is dry, particularly in the west of the state. Winters are dry and freezing, with much of Colorado rated as hardiness zones 4 or 5. This means that winter temperatures can get as low as -30 degrees Fahrenheit. Springtime can be windy. Some climbing roses grow well in this climate, and although you should plant them where they will not be fully exposed to the wind, whenever possible, many climbing roses will still grow and flower. The roses that grow best in the Colorado climate are Old Garden Roses and Canadian Explorer roses.
Harsh Winter
While roses do not bloom in winter, they are perennial shrubs that must survive the winter months so that they can bloom again the following year. Harsh winter frosts will kill most rose varieties, but some can withstand winters in hardiness zones as low as zone 2, where winter temperatures can get as low as -45 degrees Fahrenheit. Roses that are able to survive zone 2 include Blanc Double de Courbert, which produce white double-flowers, Assinboine, which produces medium-sized red blooms and Dart's Dash, a rose producing purple and red double-flowering blooms.
Temperate Climate
Temperate climates, such as those found in England, and much of the northern Mediterranean, and those found in the maritime parts of northern California and southern Oregon, are good for growing most rose species. Most of the modern roses found around the world originate from breeding done in continental Europe, England and the northern Mediterranean, using specimens imported from Asia, and especially from China. Most English and European garden roses, cultivated for temperate climate growth, do not do well in climates where the winters are harsh.
Tropical Climate
The south of Florida has a tropical climate, enjoying long, hot humid summers. A number of rose species grow well in this climate, and are able to tolerate periods of drought that other other roses do not tolerate. Most of the roses that grow well in this climate originated in China, and came to the United States via Europe. The most common China rose grown in the hot dry conditions prevailing in south and central Florida is Old Blush, otherwise known as Parson's Pink China. Another variety of roses that flourish in hot dry climates are Noisettes, named after the Charleston nursery owner Philip Noisette who first cultivated these roses from seeds, and Bermuda roses, which come from the Atlantic island of Bermuda.
Wind And Low Humidity
The climate of Colorado is dry, particularly in the west of the state. Winters are dry and freezing, with much of Colorado rated as hardiness zones 4 or 5. This means that winter temperatures can get as low as -30 degrees Fahrenheit. Springtime can be windy. Some climbing roses grow well in this climate, and although you should plant them where they will not be fully exposed to the wind, whenever possible, many climbing roses will still grow and flower. The roses that grow best in the Colorado climate are Old Garden Roses and Canadian Explorer roses.
Harsh Winter
While roses do not bloom in winter, they are perennial shrubs that must survive the winter months so that they can bloom again the following year. Harsh winter frosts will kill most rose varieties, but some can withstand winters in hardiness zones as low as zone 2, where winter temperatures can get as low as -45 degrees Fahrenheit. Roses that are able to survive zone 2 include Blanc Double de Courbert, which produce white double-flowers, Assinboine, which produces medium-sized red blooms and Dart's Dash, a rose producing purple and red double-flowering blooms.
Temperate Climate
Temperate climates, such as those found in England, and much of the northern Mediterranean, and those found in the maritime parts of northern California and southern Oregon, are good for growing most rose species. Most of the modern roses found around the world originate from breeding done in continental Europe, England and the northern Mediterranean, using specimens imported from Asia, and especially from China. Most English and European garden roses, cultivated for temperate climate growth, do not do well in climates where the winters are harsh.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
Marsh-marigold Caltha palustris is one of those wonderful wildflowers of early spring that offer hope of warmer weather to come after a long cold winter.
Identification
Between 2 and 5cm in diameter, most of the bright yellow flowers of Caltha palustris have five petal-like sepals (although sometimes you may see flowers with as few as four petals and very occasionally there can be up to nine) with numerous yellow stamens.
The waxy green kidney-shaped or roundish leaves are 5 to 20cm across and have bluntly-serrated margins. Another very helpful identifying feature is that the stems of Marsh-marigolds are hollow.
Distribution
Common and widespread throughout Britain and Ireland, Marsh-marigolds are found throughout mainland Europe, northern Asia and the cooler northern parts of North America.
Habitat
Found mainly in wet (carr) woodlands, river and stream margins, bogs, marshes, and the banks of lakes and ponds, the aptly named Marsh-marigold, alsoknown by many other local names including Kingcup and May Blobs, is a most conspicuous wildflower. These large butter-yellow flowers also light up the edges of shady woodland streams and damp ditches beside country lanes.
Blooming Times
In sheltered locations the first flowers of Caltha palustris can appear in late February well before the spring fireworks display of other wildflowers, but April and May are when you will see these flowers at their best in Britain. A few stragglers sometimes continue to bloom well into June or early July, but by then the plants have collapsed and lost their youthfulness.
Uses
Roots, stems, leaves, flowers and seeds of this plant are all poisonous, and if handled they have been known to cause irritation of the skin and even dermatitis. Nevertheless, their value in the margins of a garden pond or any other shaded boggy hollow is not restricted to their aesthetic beauty: in common with other members of the Buttercup family, Marsh-marigolds are pollinated by the many small insects of springtime.
Identification
Between 2 and 5cm in diameter, most of the bright yellow flowers of Caltha palustris have five petal-like sepals (although sometimes you may see flowers with as few as four petals and very occasionally there can be up to nine) with numerous yellow stamens.
The waxy green kidney-shaped or roundish leaves are 5 to 20cm across and have bluntly-serrated margins. Another very helpful identifying feature is that the stems of Marsh-marigolds are hollow.
Distribution
Common and widespread throughout Britain and Ireland, Marsh-marigolds are found throughout mainland Europe, northern Asia and the cooler northern parts of North America.
Habitat
Found mainly in wet (carr) woodlands, river and stream margins, bogs, marshes, and the banks of lakes and ponds, the aptly named Marsh-marigold, alsoknown by many other local names including Kingcup and May Blobs, is a most conspicuous wildflower. These large butter-yellow flowers also light up the edges of shady woodland streams and damp ditches beside country lanes.
Blooming Times
In sheltered locations the first flowers of Caltha palustris can appear in late February well before the spring fireworks display of other wildflowers, but April and May are when you will see these flowers at their best in Britain. A few stragglers sometimes continue to bloom well into June or early July, but by then the plants have collapsed and lost their youthfulness.
Uses
Roots, stems, leaves, flowers and seeds of this plant are all poisonous, and if handled they have been known to cause irritation of the skin and even dermatitis. Nevertheless, their value in the margins of a garden pond or any other shaded boggy hollow is not restricted to their aesthetic beauty: in common with other members of the Buttercup family, Marsh-marigolds are pollinated by the many small insects of springtime.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cacti are suited to dry, arid environments, and nearly all their problems are related to water. Even most diseases that affect cactus plants attack when moisture levels are wrong. Although some cacti will shrivel during the winter months as part of their life cycle, most causes of shriveling are related to improper watering or moisture levels.
Water
By far, most problems with cactus are caused by overwatering, but the opposite extreme of not enough water will cause shriveling. A cactus that is too dry to sustain its flesh will begin to shrink, causing the skin to crinkle and the entire plant to appear shriveled.
Proper Amount of Water
The proper amount of water for a cactus depends on the time of year and weather conditions. Generally, provide a good watering that soaks into the soil several inches for the cactus plant once per month. The soil should be allowed to drain and become completely dry between watering. When the cactus is in a fast growth phase or is blooming, generally in spring, water may be needed more often, up to twice per month.
Proper Soil
In addition to the right amount of water, a cactus plant also requires the proper type of soil. Heavy, moist soils will cause problems. The soil should be sandy and drain quickly. Most varieties of cactus prefer a mixture of sand and small pebbles. The right soil will keep moisture at the right level for the cactus and prevent shriveling.
Dormancy
Even with the best care, some varieties of cactus will shrivel once per year as they go into a dormant state for several months. This typically occurs during the winter months when temperatures drop. If an otherwise healthy cactus that normally does well on the amount of water received begins to shrivel, it is probably going into a dormant period. When the weather warms up, it will return to its normal state.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Schlumbergera, commonly referred to as Christmas cactus, derives its common name from its winter bloom period. Each of the six Christmas cactus species produces a different colored bloom, with red being the most common. As with all cacti and succulents, the Christmas cactus is susceptible to disease. Fungal leaf spots, sooty mold, botrytis and basal stem rot are common diseases associated with this plant. The effects of pests are often mistaken for disease, but pests can often be eradicated. In some cases a diseased plant can be treated. In others, the plant cannot be salvaged.
Fungal Leaf Spots
Step 1
Cut away any infected leaves with a clean razor blade. Unfortunately, the infected leaves cannot be rejuvenated. Fungal leaf spots are typically circular or elliptical in shape and develop along the leaves of the plant. The spots are typically black or gray in color.
Step 2
Move the plant to a well-ventilated area.
Step 3
Water the plant at the ground level and only after the soil is allowed to dry completely. Fungal leaf spots develop from water that rests on the leaves and stems for long periods. It is for this reason that you should avoid pouring water directly over Christmas cactus, particularly if the plant is exposed to shade for long periods of time.
Sooty Mold and Botrytis
Step 4
Remove as much soil from the roots as you reasonably can without damaging the root system.
Step 5
Repot the plant with new soil specifically formulated for cactus and succulents.
Step 6
Treat the blackened areas with a systemic fungicide if treating sooty mold and with methylated spirits if treating botrytis.
Step 7
Move the plant to a well-ventilated area if treating botrytis.
Step 8
Allow the soil to dry completely between waterings.
Basal Stem Rot
Step 9
Cut away any leaves not yet infected with a clean razor blade. Unfortunately, a Christmas cactus suffering from basal stem rot cannot be rejuvenated, but healthy leaves can be repotted.
Step 10
Plant the healthy leaves in new soil specifically formulated for cacti and succulents.
Step 11
Apply copper sulfate to the healthy cuttings to guard against basal stem rot.
Pests
Step 12
Identify the type of pest attacking the plant. Mealybugs are identified by their white woolly nests and waxy appearance. The bugs are very small and a gray-white color. Spider mites are red in color and feed on the leaves of the plant. They are very hard to see without a magnifying glass. Look for spider webs with small dots. The dots are the spider mites. Whiteflies closely resemble mealybugs, but do not build nests. Whiteflies excrete honeydew, which can lead to sooty mold.
Step 13
Move the plant to an area where temperatures exceed 70 degrees F for all pest types. It may be necessary to invest in a small greenhouse if temperatures in direct sunlight do not reach at least 70 degrees. Moving the plant to a warmer environment should eliminate the spider mites.
Step 14
Spray the plant with soapy contact insecticide if treating a plant with mealybugs.
Step 15
Increase the humidity level if the spider mite infestation is extensive and they survive the warmer temperature.
Step 16
Spray whiteflies with an insecticidal spray.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Cymbidiums are among the most popular winter and spring blooming orchids. The word Cymbidium Comes from Greek kymbe meaning a boat, referring to hollowness in the lip of the flower. Cymbidium is native of tropical and subtropical Asia covering North-India, China, Japan, Malaysia, the Philippines, and Borneo islands and North-Australia, usually growing in cooler climates at high elevation.
Cymbidium orchids are thick, waxy flowers with five pointed petals on each bloom. At present the genus Cymbidium consists of 44 species originating from the Asian continent. Cymbidium is one of the most popular and desirable orchids in the world because of the beauty of flowers. Cymbidiums are very popular in floral arrangements floral corsages. Cymbidiums are available in a rainbow of colours. The breath taking sprays of cymbidium flowers make ideal home or patio decorations. From the time that the first flower bud opens, the sprays will remain in bloom for the next 2 - 3 months.
Facts About Cymbidium
Cymbidiums have been cultivated for thousands of years, especially in ancient China.
Cymbidiums became popular in Europe during the Victorian era. One feature that makes the cymbidium so popular is the fact that the plant can survive cold temperatures as low as 7 degree Centigrade.
In his writings, Confucius referred to the Asian Cymbidium as the King of Fragrance
Cymbidiums usually bloom once a year during winter and spring seasons and the flowers last for more than four weeks.
Cymbidiums may be divided into two main groups- Standard Cymbidiums (large-flowered type) and Miniature Cymbidiums (small-flowered type).
A cymbidium plant has three types of bulbs-
1. Old back bulbs without leaves, which reserve food supply for emergencies.
2.Old bulbs with leaves, Supporting the new growth and may produce flowers.
3.New leads or bulbs, from where flowers grow.
Growing Cymbidiums
Repotting is done every 2 to 4 years and is best indicated by the plant bulbs filling the pot or the plant not growing well over the past year.
A healthy plant should grow 1 to 2 new bulbs each year from each bulb that grew the previous year.
When repotting, the roots should be teased apart to remove old potting mix and then dead roots are to be removed.
If required a plant may then be divided into two or more plants by twisting and tearing the bulbs apart.
For best results, each Cymbidium pot should be as large as possible otherwise the flowering will be retarded for 1 to 2 years.
Cymbidium Plant Care
Don't take your plant inside where the atmosphere is hot and dry due to artificial heating.
Cymbidium will drop its flower buds and ultimately drop its leaves in this warm dry atmosphere.
Don't leave flower spikes on the plant until the flowers die. This can result in non flowering the following season.
Approximately four weeks after the last flower is fully open, the spike should be removed so that the plant has a full growing cycle for next year's flowering.
If your plant fails to flower give it the recommended attention plus exposure to a sunnier situation to help force flower spikes.
Water very regularly in growing season.
Pour off any unabsorbed water.
Feed with orchid fertilizer once a month in summer.
Cymbidium orchids are thick, waxy flowers with five pointed petals on each bloom. At present the genus Cymbidium consists of 44 species originating from the Asian continent. Cymbidium is one of the most popular and desirable orchids in the world because of the beauty of flowers. Cymbidiums are very popular in floral arrangements floral corsages. Cymbidiums are available in a rainbow of colours. The breath taking sprays of cymbidium flowers make ideal home or patio decorations. From the time that the first flower bud opens, the sprays will remain in bloom for the next 2 - 3 months.
Facts About Cymbidium
Cymbidiums have been cultivated for thousands of years, especially in ancient China.
Cymbidiums became popular in Europe during the Victorian era. One feature that makes the cymbidium so popular is the fact that the plant can survive cold temperatures as low as 7 degree Centigrade.
In his writings, Confucius referred to the Asian Cymbidium as the King of Fragrance
Cymbidiums usually bloom once a year during winter and spring seasons and the flowers last for more than four weeks.
Cymbidiums may be divided into two main groups- Standard Cymbidiums (large-flowered type) and Miniature Cymbidiums (small-flowered type).
A cymbidium plant has three types of bulbs-
1. Old back bulbs without leaves, which reserve food supply for emergencies.
2.Old bulbs with leaves, Supporting the new growth and may produce flowers.
3.New leads or bulbs, from where flowers grow.
Growing Cymbidiums
Repotting is done every 2 to 4 years and is best indicated by the plant bulbs filling the pot or the plant not growing well over the past year.
A healthy plant should grow 1 to 2 new bulbs each year from each bulb that grew the previous year.
When repotting, the roots should be teased apart to remove old potting mix and then dead roots are to be removed.
If required a plant may then be divided into two or more plants by twisting and tearing the bulbs apart.
For best results, each Cymbidium pot should be as large as possible otherwise the flowering will be retarded for 1 to 2 years.
Cymbidium Plant Care
Don't take your plant inside where the atmosphere is hot and dry due to artificial heating.
Cymbidium will drop its flower buds and ultimately drop its leaves in this warm dry atmosphere.
Don't leave flower spikes on the plant until the flowers die. This can result in non flowering the following season.
Approximately four weeks after the last flower is fully open, the spike should be removed so that the plant has a full growing cycle for next year's flowering.
If your plant fails to flower give it the recommended attention plus exposure to a sunnier situation to help force flower spikes.
Water very regularly in growing season.
Pour off any unabsorbed water.
Feed with orchid fertilizer once a month in summer.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Spinacia oleracea
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Spinach, a super–cold-hardy vegetable, is a tender-leafed crop that can be planted in very early spring, as well as in fall and winter.
Spinach has similar growing conditions and requirements as lettuce, but it is more versatile in both its nutrition and its ability to be eaten raw or cooked. It is higher in iron, calcium, and vitamins than most cultivated greens, and one of the best sources of vitamins A, B, and C.
PLANTING
Prepare the soil with aged manure about a week before planting, or, you may wish to prepare your spot in the fall so that you can sow the seeds outdoors in early spring as soon as the ground thaws.
If you live in a place with mild winters, you can also plant in the fall.
Although seedlings can be propagated indoors, it is not recommended, as seedlings are difficult to transplant.
Spring plantings can be made as soon as the soil can be properly worked. It’s important to seed as soon as you can to give spinach the required 6 weeks of cool weather from seeding to harvest.
Select a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil.
Sow seeds ½ inch to 1 inch deep, covering lightly with soil. Sow about 12 seeds per foot of row, or sprinkle over a wide row or bed.
Soil should not be warmer than 70º F in order for germination.
Successive plantings should be made every couple weeks during early spring. Common spinach cannot grow in midsummer. (For a summer harvest, try New Zealand Spinach or Malabar Spinach, two similar leafy greens.)
Plant in mid-August for a fall crop, ensuring that soil temps are cool enough.
Gardeners in northern climates can harvest early-spring spinach if it’s planted just before the cold weather arrives in fall. Protect the young plants with a cold frame or thick mulch through the winter, then remove the protection when soil temperature in your area reaches 40º.
Water the new plants well in the spring.
CARE
Fertilize only if necessary due to slow growth, or use as a supplement if your soil pH is inadequate. Use when plant reaches ⅓ growth.
When seedlings sprout to about two inches, thin them to 3-4 inches apart.
Beyond thinning, no cultivation is necessary. Roots are shallow and easily damaged.
Keep soil moist with mulching.
Water regularly.
Spinach can tolerate the cold; it can survive a frost and temps down to 15ºF.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf Miners: Radishes attract leaf miners away from spinach. The damage that the leaf miners do to radish leaves doesn’t prevent the radishes from growing underground.
Bolting
Mosaic Virus/Blight
Downy Mildew
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Spinach, a super–cold-hardy vegetable, is a tender-leafed crop that can be planted in very early spring, as well as in fall and winter.
Spinach has similar growing conditions and requirements as lettuce, but it is more versatile in both its nutrition and its ability to be eaten raw or cooked. It is higher in iron, calcium, and vitamins than most cultivated greens, and one of the best sources of vitamins A, B, and C.
PLANTING
Prepare the soil with aged manure about a week before planting, or, you may wish to prepare your spot in the fall so that you can sow the seeds outdoors in early spring as soon as the ground thaws.
If you live in a place with mild winters, you can also plant in the fall.
Although seedlings can be propagated indoors, it is not recommended, as seedlings are difficult to transplant.
Spring plantings can be made as soon as the soil can be properly worked. It’s important to seed as soon as you can to give spinach the required 6 weeks of cool weather from seeding to harvest.
Select a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil.
Sow seeds ½ inch to 1 inch deep, covering lightly with soil. Sow about 12 seeds per foot of row, or sprinkle over a wide row or bed.
Soil should not be warmer than 70º F in order for germination.
Successive plantings should be made every couple weeks during early spring. Common spinach cannot grow in midsummer. (For a summer harvest, try New Zealand Spinach or Malabar Spinach, two similar leafy greens.)
Plant in mid-August for a fall crop, ensuring that soil temps are cool enough.
Gardeners in northern climates can harvest early-spring spinach if it’s planted just before the cold weather arrives in fall. Protect the young plants with a cold frame or thick mulch through the winter, then remove the protection when soil temperature in your area reaches 40º.
Water the new plants well in the spring.
CARE
Fertilize only if necessary due to slow growth, or use as a supplement if your soil pH is inadequate. Use when plant reaches ⅓ growth.
When seedlings sprout to about two inches, thin them to 3-4 inches apart.
Beyond thinning, no cultivation is necessary. Roots are shallow and easily damaged.
Keep soil moist with mulching.
Water regularly.
Spinach can tolerate the cold; it can survive a frost and temps down to 15ºF.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf Miners: Radishes attract leaf miners away from spinach. The damage that the leaf miners do to radish leaves doesn’t prevent the radishes from growing underground.
Bolting
Mosaic Virus/Blight
Downy Mildew
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