文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
Pruning is a crucial aspect of grapevine cultivation, affecting overall vine balance. Extensive pruning takes place mid to late winter after grapevines enter winter dormancy to encourage productivity and direct vine canopy and bud growth during the growing season. Bare, exposed canes signal the dormancy of the vine. Removing old wood to make room for new fruiting wood is the primary purpose for heavily pruning grape vines.
Timing and Temperature
Because only shoots growing from 1-year-old canes produce fruit, healthy new canes must be produced every year to maintain annual production of fruit. A pruning practice that facilitates the production of fruiting wood involves removing all of the previous year's fruiting canes or spurs (now 2 years old) and any excess 1-year-old canes. From January through early March, grape growers should remove about 90 percent of wood growth from the previous growing season — with the exception of new 1-year-old fruiting canes and renewal spurs (new trunks), according to Oregon State University's Department of Horticulture. Pruning in the fall may increase vine susceptibility to freeze injury during winter. Optimal timing for pruning occurs when winter's coldest temperatures have likely passed and when temperatures consistently maintain levels above freezing.
Age Considerations
Cut back to two or three buds, a first-year vine should grow several shoots, promoting abundant leaf growth on the vine to permit the formation of a strong root system. The second year, remove flower clusters from the young vine as they form throughout the growing season. Implement typical pruning practices during the vine's third winter and allow fruit to develop during the following growing season. Old, neglected vines should undergo severe pruning in stages to minimize shock to the plant, removing dead and diseased wood first, continuing at intervals to remove old wood while leaving the new, 1-year-old wood growth.
Spring Pruning
In regions where risk of injury to the vine from severe winter weather exists, postpone heavy pruning until early spring. According to Cornell University, delay pruning through the winter months as long as feasible to reduce the danger of cold injury. If extremely cold temperatures do not occur in December, January and February, the danger of vine injury from cold is reduced. March may still produce damaging temperatures, but avoiding injury is more likely. Cornell University recommends examining the buds and proceeding on the basis of actual injury when the possibility of cold and freeze damage to grape vines exist, allowing you to compensate for actual injury losses.
Fruit Thinning
Fruit thinning is a type of pruning that is often necessary during the growing season to control excessive fruit production by permitting no more than one fruit cluster for each rapidly growing shoot. Fruit thinning ensures maximum quality and ripening, and its effectiveness depends on targeting new growth as early as possible throughout the growing season. During summer bloom, remove small or imperfect flower clusters at their first appearance to promote growth of large clusters of large grapes.
Timing and Temperature
Because only shoots growing from 1-year-old canes produce fruit, healthy new canes must be produced every year to maintain annual production of fruit. A pruning practice that facilitates the production of fruiting wood involves removing all of the previous year's fruiting canes or spurs (now 2 years old) and any excess 1-year-old canes. From January through early March, grape growers should remove about 90 percent of wood growth from the previous growing season — with the exception of new 1-year-old fruiting canes and renewal spurs (new trunks), according to Oregon State University's Department of Horticulture. Pruning in the fall may increase vine susceptibility to freeze injury during winter. Optimal timing for pruning occurs when winter's coldest temperatures have likely passed and when temperatures consistently maintain levels above freezing.
Age Considerations
Cut back to two or three buds, a first-year vine should grow several shoots, promoting abundant leaf growth on the vine to permit the formation of a strong root system. The second year, remove flower clusters from the young vine as they form throughout the growing season. Implement typical pruning practices during the vine's third winter and allow fruit to develop during the following growing season. Old, neglected vines should undergo severe pruning in stages to minimize shock to the plant, removing dead and diseased wood first, continuing at intervals to remove old wood while leaving the new, 1-year-old wood growth.
Spring Pruning
In regions where risk of injury to the vine from severe winter weather exists, postpone heavy pruning until early spring. According to Cornell University, delay pruning through the winter months as long as feasible to reduce the danger of cold injury. If extremely cold temperatures do not occur in December, January and February, the danger of vine injury from cold is reduced. March may still produce damaging temperatures, but avoiding injury is more likely. Cornell University recommends examining the buds and proceeding on the basis of actual injury when the possibility of cold and freeze damage to grape vines exist, allowing you to compensate for actual injury losses.
Fruit Thinning
Fruit thinning is a type of pruning that is often necessary during the growing season to control excessive fruit production by permitting no more than one fruit cluster for each rapidly growing shoot. Fruit thinning ensures maximum quality and ripening, and its effectiveness depends on targeting new growth as early as possible throughout the growing season. During summer bloom, remove small or imperfect flower clusters at their first appearance to promote growth of large clusters of large grapes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月26日
Grapes are planted in the late winter to early spring months. The plants start to grow in spring and continue to grow throughout the summer season. Grapes ripen in the late summer to early fall, depending on the variety grown. Grape varieties are available for USDA hardiness zones 5 through 9.
Location
Grapes require a location that receives high summer temperatures and full sunlight. Grape vines need protection from frost, so plant them on southern slopes, and avoid any low spots or places where cold air may collect. The length of the growing season varies among the different grape varieties, but grapes generally need 150 to 180 frost-free days between spring and fall freezes. Late spring freezes can kill newly opened shoots and compromise production.
Pruning
Pruning should be performed in late winter to early spring. When timing your pruning, aim to avoid the coldest parts of winter, but also to beat the period when buds begin to swell, suggests the University of Illinois Extension. New shoots appear on vines in the spring and mature into canes in the fall. When pruning, keep in mind that the previous season's wood supports the current season's growth, and fruit and flowers appear on the current season's growth.
Propagation
You can take cuttings from dormant vines in late fall or early spring to expand your plantings. This task is best performed in early spring so that you can plant your cuttings as soon as they leaf out and their roots develop, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. Cuttings may be taken from vines or pruned material.
Harvest
Grapes are mature and ready for harvest when their seeds turn from green to brown or their flavor reaches its peak. You should not use their skin color as a predictor of ripeness, as grapes may color before they mature. Grapes generally soften and develop a sweeter and less acidic flavor as they mature. If you pick based on color, you may harvest your grapes before they reach an ideal size and sweetness. The flavor of grapes will not improve after harvest.
Selection
Select grape varieties based upon your plans for the fruit, the flavor of the grapes and their disease resistance. When choosing grapes, look for varieties that possess the degree of cold hardiness needed to suit your growing region. Grapes range in hardiness from very cold tender, requiring low temperatures over 0 degrees Fahrenheit, to very hardy, tolerant of temperatures of minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
Location
Grapes require a location that receives high summer temperatures and full sunlight. Grape vines need protection from frost, so plant them on southern slopes, and avoid any low spots or places where cold air may collect. The length of the growing season varies among the different grape varieties, but grapes generally need 150 to 180 frost-free days between spring and fall freezes. Late spring freezes can kill newly opened shoots and compromise production.
Pruning
Pruning should be performed in late winter to early spring. When timing your pruning, aim to avoid the coldest parts of winter, but also to beat the period when buds begin to swell, suggests the University of Illinois Extension. New shoots appear on vines in the spring and mature into canes in the fall. When pruning, keep in mind that the previous season's wood supports the current season's growth, and fruit and flowers appear on the current season's growth.
Propagation
You can take cuttings from dormant vines in late fall or early spring to expand your plantings. This task is best performed in early spring so that you can plant your cuttings as soon as they leaf out and their roots develop, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. Cuttings may be taken from vines or pruned material.
Harvest
Grapes are mature and ready for harvest when their seeds turn from green to brown or their flavor reaches its peak. You should not use their skin color as a predictor of ripeness, as grapes may color before they mature. Grapes generally soften and develop a sweeter and less acidic flavor as they mature. If you pick based on color, you may harvest your grapes before they reach an ideal size and sweetness. The flavor of grapes will not improve after harvest.
Selection
Select grape varieties based upon your plans for the fruit, the flavor of the grapes and their disease resistance. When choosing grapes, look for varieties that possess the degree of cold hardiness needed to suit your growing region. Grapes range in hardiness from very cold tender, requiring low temperatures over 0 degrees Fahrenheit, to very hardy, tolerant of temperatures of minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
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成长记
cclecombe
2017年10月22日
I'm thinking about taking some more clippings before winter hits. Is that a good time to propagate? #Propagation
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cclecombe
2017年10月08日
Anyone else in the UK having houseplant difficulties since the susden drop in temperature? I'm having a house plant shuffle to try and accomodate their needs, but our house gets so cold in winter!
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cclecombe：@Ueca all of our plants are indoors anyway. I think they just need somewhere a bit dryer in the winter
Ueca：Move tropical/desert plants (jasmine, Aeonium, cacti, etc.) indoors.
Mountain plants (Echeveria, some Crassula, Sedum, etc.) can hang on mostly down to 5°C as long as their soil is dry when it gets that cold.
成长记
cclecombe
2017年10月08日
I'm so upset about this guy! He was doing so well! I think now winter is here, its taking a lot longer for the soil to dry out, especially in the bathroom, so I've moved this to out kithen which is a but warmer!
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hege：I think your gollums are Crassula ovata convoluta
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
Grown as landscaping plants in mild winter climates, columnar cacti can reach impressive sizes not possible when they’re grown in containers. When cacti outgrow their allotted space or are reaching toward pathways, they need trimming. This might seem like a formidable task, since stem diameters can be large and some cacti have sizable spines along their ridges. Try to tackle pruning jobs before the stems get too large. With the proper equipment and planning, you can remove the unwanted growth.
Preparing to Prune
1. Mix a container of 10 percent bleach solution by combining 1 part household bleach with 10 parts water. Select a container tall enough that you can immerse the cutting edges of your pruning tools in it.
2. Wear protective clothing that covers your arms and legs, closed-toe shoes and gloves. Add safety goggles if your face will come anywhere near the cactus during the pruning process.
3. Study your cactus plant to determine a plan of action. Identify the outermost branches you wish to prune, and decide on the order of pruning so that you have easy access to the stems with the pruning tools. Then move to inner branches. Remove long, heavy branches that would be hard to handle in sections, taking manageable cuttings from the top down.
4. Select the proper tool for the size of stem you’re working on. A serrated knife works well for smaller diameter cuttings and angled-blade pruning saws are best for larger diameter stems. Use a long-handled saw for hard-to-reach stems.
5. Dip the blades of saws or knives in the bleach, soaking all surfaces.
Making the Cuts
1. Grasp the stem in the middle of the intended cut location with cooking tongs if the stem is small in diameter. Put a piece of rope in the middle if the stem is larger. Continue to hold the stem with the tongs or rope while you make a clean slanting cut through the stem angled at 45 degrees. Get another person to hold the stem of big branches while you make the cut.
2. Remove the cutting and lay it on a clean tarp or piece of cardboard if you are going to propagate it. Place the cuttings in a garbage can or sturdy box for transport if you aren’t keeping the cuttings.
3. Check the cut on the mother plant if you are only removing one cutting. Remove any torn or jagged areas and make sure the slanted cut is smooth and will easily shed water to prevent rot on the parent plant.
4. Continue to make cuts on the stem if it is a large branch, supporting each cut section with the tongs or rope as you go. Lay each piece of cactus on the clean surface or put it in the garbage can. Make sure you can tell the bottom from the top of each cutting if you plan to root the cuttings. Use a permanent marker and put an X at the bottom edge of each cut.
5. Discard the cuttings, give them away, or make more plants by rooting the cuttings.
Preparing to Prune
1. Mix a container of 10 percent bleach solution by combining 1 part household bleach with 10 parts water. Select a container tall enough that you can immerse the cutting edges of your pruning tools in it.
2. Wear protective clothing that covers your arms and legs, closed-toe shoes and gloves. Add safety goggles if your face will come anywhere near the cactus during the pruning process.
3. Study your cactus plant to determine a plan of action. Identify the outermost branches you wish to prune, and decide on the order of pruning so that you have easy access to the stems with the pruning tools. Then move to inner branches. Remove long, heavy branches that would be hard to handle in sections, taking manageable cuttings from the top down.
4. Select the proper tool for the size of stem you’re working on. A serrated knife works well for smaller diameter cuttings and angled-blade pruning saws are best for larger diameter stems. Use a long-handled saw for hard-to-reach stems.
5. Dip the blades of saws or knives in the bleach, soaking all surfaces.
Making the Cuts
1. Grasp the stem in the middle of the intended cut location with cooking tongs if the stem is small in diameter. Put a piece of rope in the middle if the stem is larger. Continue to hold the stem with the tongs or rope while you make a clean slanting cut through the stem angled at 45 degrees. Get another person to hold the stem of big branches while you make the cut.
2. Remove the cutting and lay it on a clean tarp or piece of cardboard if you are going to propagate it. Place the cuttings in a garbage can or sturdy box for transport if you aren’t keeping the cuttings.
3. Check the cut on the mother plant if you are only removing one cutting. Remove any torn or jagged areas and make sure the slanted cut is smooth and will easily shed water to prevent rot on the parent plant.
4. Continue to make cuts on the stem if it is a large branch, supporting each cut section with the tongs or rope as you go. Lay each piece of cactus on the clean surface or put it in the garbage can. Make sure you can tell the bottom from the top of each cutting if you plan to root the cuttings. Use a permanent marker and put an X at the bottom edge of each cut.
5. Discard the cuttings, give them away, or make more plants by rooting the cuttings.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
During the winter and early spring months many people buy or are given potted tulip plants (Tulipa spp.), which are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. These tulips have been "forced" in nurseries, made to bloom out of season by careful manipulation of light, temperature and growing conditions. After forcing, the plant's energy, stored in the tulip bulb, is depleted. The key to successful aftercare of forced bulbs is building up the plant's energy supply once again. Forced tulips can be planted outside and will bloom again, though possibly not for a year or two.
After Bloom Care
Begin preparing potted tulips for outdoor planting as soon as the petals fade. Keep plants inside, preferably in a south- or east-facing window, at normal room temperature. Remove dead flowers, clipping the stem close to the base of the plant. Disinfect clippers before and after cutting by soaking for 5 minutes in a 50-50 solution of rubbing alcohol and water. Removing spent flowers allows the plant to put energy into the bulb, rather than seed production. Continue watering when the surface of the soil feels dry and monitor the plant's leaves. Fertilize with an all-purpose product, like 24-8-16, mixing 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water, applied every two weeks. Do not remove the leaves until they have turned brown and brittle.
Planting in Spring
Plant the tulips outdoors any time in spring, beginning when the soil is workable. If the leaves are still green, wait until they turn brown and remove them. Choose a sunny location, preferably one that receives relatively little water in summer.
Carefully dig the bulbs out of the pot and dig a hole 8 inches deep for each bulb. Mix dirt from the holes with an equal measure of compost. Plant bulbs pointed-side up, at least 5 inches apart. Fill the holes with the amended soil, and water.
Fertilize with the same all-purpose product, using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, applied every 14 days until the soil cools to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting in Fall
If it is not convenient to plant your tulips outdoors in the spring, you can wait until fall with an equal chance of success. After the leaves have died, remove the tulip bulbs from the soil. Place the bulbs in a brown paper bag and store in a cool, dry spot. In the fall, after the soil cools to about 60 degrees Fahrenheit, plant the tulips outdoors. Water after planting, but don't water again until after leaves appear.
Forced Tulip Considerations
Not all tulip varieties rebloom as readily as others, even with the best of care. Generally Darwin hybrids, single early and single late tulips are the best rebloomers. However, the tulips sold in pots during the winter are often not labeled as to type. Potted tulips that rebloom after being transplanted outside may bear smaller flowers than those borne in the first year inside. When planting outside, position previously potted bulbs within plantings of new tulip bulbs to ensure a good floral display even if the potted bulb never reblooms or waits until the second year after planting.
After Bloom Care
Begin preparing potted tulips for outdoor planting as soon as the petals fade. Keep plants inside, preferably in a south- or east-facing window, at normal room temperature. Remove dead flowers, clipping the stem close to the base of the plant. Disinfect clippers before and after cutting by soaking for 5 minutes in a 50-50 solution of rubbing alcohol and water. Removing spent flowers allows the plant to put energy into the bulb, rather than seed production. Continue watering when the surface of the soil feels dry and monitor the plant's leaves. Fertilize with an all-purpose product, like 24-8-16, mixing 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water, applied every two weeks. Do not remove the leaves until they have turned brown and brittle.
Planting in Spring
Plant the tulips outdoors any time in spring, beginning when the soil is workable. If the leaves are still green, wait until they turn brown and remove them. Choose a sunny location, preferably one that receives relatively little water in summer.
Carefully dig the bulbs out of the pot and dig a hole 8 inches deep for each bulb. Mix dirt from the holes with an equal measure of compost. Plant bulbs pointed-side up, at least 5 inches apart. Fill the holes with the amended soil, and water.
Fertilize with the same all-purpose product, using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, applied every 14 days until the soil cools to 60 degrees Fahrenheit.
Planting in Fall
If it is not convenient to plant your tulips outdoors in the spring, you can wait until fall with an equal chance of success. After the leaves have died, remove the tulip bulbs from the soil. Place the bulbs in a brown paper bag and store in a cool, dry spot. In the fall, after the soil cools to about 60 degrees Fahrenheit, plant the tulips outdoors. Water after planting, but don't water again until after leaves appear.
Forced Tulip Considerations
Not all tulip varieties rebloom as readily as others, even with the best of care. Generally Darwin hybrids, single early and single late tulips are the best rebloomers. However, the tulips sold in pots during the winter are often not labeled as to type. Potted tulips that rebloom after being transplanted outside may bear smaller flowers than those borne in the first year inside. When planting outside, position previously potted bulbs within plantings of new tulip bulbs to ensure a good floral display even if the potted bulb never reblooms or waits until the second year after planting.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Cool-season bulb plants, tulips (Tulipa spp.) were first discovered in eastern Turkey. Although tulips grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, they don't bloom reliably in mild-winter climates unless you dig them up and refrigerate them. In regions where temperatures rarely drop below 25 degrees Fahrenheit, you'll need to chill the bulbs if you want to see flowers each year.
Prepare Bulbs for Digging
Tulips spend their energy while they're flowering, and they need to replenish this energy after their spring show. If you plan to dig, store and replant your tulip bulbs, leave them in the ground until the leaves yellow and wither. As long as the leaves are green, they're photosynthesizing -- building energy stores for the next season's flowers. Clip the spent flower off the stalk to prevent seed formation. Setting seed takes energy and weakens the bulb.
Dig and Store Tulip Bulbs
If you live in USDA zone 8 or cooler and your bulbs are planted in an area of your yard that remains relatively dry, you can leave the bulbs in the ground until June or July. If you live in a warmer climate or your soil will stay moist, dig the bulbs as soon as the leaves wither. Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the ground. Separate the bulbs. Remove roots and loose soil from the bulbs and store them in a dry place with good air circulation in mesh bags or shallow wooden crates, with bulbs no more than 5 inches deep in the container. Avoid storing bulbs where temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Allow Tulips to Chill
If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, plant tulips between early November and early January. In colder climates, plant tulips in early fall.
Count back 16 to 18 weeks before planting time for your area, and place the bulbs in ventilated bags or dry peat moss and put them in your refrigerator, an unheated building or other spot where temperatures remain between 35 and 45 F. Keep the bulbs chilled until it's time to plant.
Prepare the Bed
Fertilize the tulip bed at planting time by digging in a 2-inch layer of compost or well-rotted cow manure, or use a 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 commercial fertilizer after planting. Apply commercial fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet, or follow label instructions. Spread the fertilizer on top of the bed after planting, then water the area.
Set bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up. If you plan to mulch, add the mulch depth to your calculation. For example, if you plan to add 2 inches of mulch, plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep. After green shoots emerge, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 at the same rate you used at planting time.
Prepare Bulbs for Digging
Tulips spend their energy while they're flowering, and they need to replenish this energy after their spring show. If you plan to dig, store and replant your tulip bulbs, leave them in the ground until the leaves yellow and wither. As long as the leaves are green, they're photosynthesizing -- building energy stores for the next season's flowers. Clip the spent flower off the stalk to prevent seed formation. Setting seed takes energy and weakens the bulb.
Dig and Store Tulip Bulbs
If you live in USDA zone 8 or cooler and your bulbs are planted in an area of your yard that remains relatively dry, you can leave the bulbs in the ground until June or July. If you live in a warmer climate or your soil will stay moist, dig the bulbs as soon as the leaves wither. Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the ground. Separate the bulbs. Remove roots and loose soil from the bulbs and store them in a dry place with good air circulation in mesh bags or shallow wooden crates, with bulbs no more than 5 inches deep in the container. Avoid storing bulbs where temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Allow Tulips to Chill
If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, plant tulips between early November and early January. In colder climates, plant tulips in early fall.
Count back 16 to 18 weeks before planting time for your area, and place the bulbs in ventilated bags or dry peat moss and put them in your refrigerator, an unheated building or other spot where temperatures remain between 35 and 45 F. Keep the bulbs chilled until it's time to plant.
Prepare the Bed
Fertilize the tulip bed at planting time by digging in a 2-inch layer of compost or well-rotted cow manure, or use a 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 commercial fertilizer after planting. Apply commercial fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet, or follow label instructions. Spread the fertilizer on top of the bed after planting, then water the area.
Set bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up. If you plan to mulch, add the mulch depth to your calculation. For example, if you plan to add 2 inches of mulch, plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep. After green shoots emerge, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 at the same rate you used at planting time.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips grow and bloom in late winter and early spring, bringing bright color to otherwise sleepy gardens. These bulb plants are equally successful in pots, both in the house and in the garden. Potted tulips require the same planting times, placement and care as outdoor tulips if they're to bloom in spring, so buy some tulips bulbs in fall and get started.
Step 1
Plant tulip bulbs in fall, around the first frost date in your area. All tulips require a cold "resting" time in fall in order to bloom. Use pots at least 6 inches deep with drainage holes for tulips, to accommodate their roots and keep them from sitting in water.
Step 2
Fill the pots halfway with quick-draining potting soil, and set the tulip bulbs on the soil with their noses pointing up. Plant tulip bulbs closely, but never place them close enough to touch each other. Fill the pots to within 1 inch of the surface with more potting soil.
Step 3
Water the tulips until water runs out of the drainage hole in the pot, then set them outside for the winter.
Step 4
Move tulips indoors again when their stems are 1 inch long. Put the pots in a cool, dark space and give them several weeks to grow. Move the tulips back into a sunny spot when their stems are 4 to 5 inches long.
Step 5
Water sprouted tulips with 2 inches of water a week to maintain consistent soil moisture, and keep them in full sun for six to eight hours a day.
Step 1
Plant tulip bulbs in fall, around the first frost date in your area. All tulips require a cold "resting" time in fall in order to bloom. Use pots at least 6 inches deep with drainage holes for tulips, to accommodate their roots and keep them from sitting in water.
Step 2
Fill the pots halfway with quick-draining potting soil, and set the tulip bulbs on the soil with their noses pointing up. Plant tulip bulbs closely, but never place them close enough to touch each other. Fill the pots to within 1 inch of the surface with more potting soil.
Step 3
Water the tulips until water runs out of the drainage hole in the pot, then set them outside for the winter.
Step 4
Move tulips indoors again when their stems are 1 inch long. Put the pots in a cool, dark space and give them several weeks to grow. Move the tulips back into a sunny spot when their stems are 4 to 5 inches long.
Step 5
Water sprouted tulips with 2 inches of water a week to maintain consistent soil moisture, and keep them in full sun for six to eight hours a day.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Normally thought of as outdoor plants, Primula are actually excellent indoor potted plants for winter or spring blooms. Although the Common Primrose (Primula vulgaris) can be grown as a potted plant inside, the favorite potted Primula tend to be the more delicate species, with clusters of small blooms that rise above the crinkled and attractive leaves.
All delicate Primula should be treated about the same, and in no case should you expect a long-lived houseplant. Rather, think of your pot of spring-time Primula like your blooming fall Phalaenopsis Orchid: it’s a beautiful visitor, but will not survive over the long term inside. Once the plant has finished blooming, you can move it outside to a protected spot of your summer garden and hopefully enjoy a season of additional blooms.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer brightly lit windowsills, but the indoor fancy plant should not be exposed to direct sunlight. When planting them outside, put in a shady or dappled corner.
Water: It need adequate, even and regular moisture to thrive. They shouldn’t be soggy, but don’t let the soil dry out either. Look for signs of wilting.
Temperature: Moderate to cool. Intense heat can cause wilting and plant failure.
Soil: A loose, very well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize with a weak liquid fertilizer during growth and flowering. Because these are not meant to be long-lived indoor plants, a single application of controlled-release fertilizer may be adequate to get them through the flowering season.
Repotting
It’s unlikely you’ll be repotting your potted Primula. If you do, make sure not to bury them too deep—burying too deep is a prime reason Primula succumb. Bury the plants so the top of the root ball is slightly elevated above the level of the surrounding soil. Never pile soil up around the stem of a flowering plant.
Propagation
They are propagated from seed, which are sown directly in soil or potting media. Most pots of indoors Primula are purchased as flowering plants, destined to be set atop a desk, sill, or table until they’re done flowering. However, if you’re interested in selecting and starting your own Primula pots, sow seeds directly into the pot in fall or early winter and keep the seedlings under fluorescent lights in a warm spot, with regular water. Plants should be blooming by early spring.
Grower’s Tips
Potted indoor Primula are a delightful way to usher out winter or welcome in the spring. They are available in a wide range of striking colors, forming a mass of flowers. Most people prefer the taller, upright delicate Primulas indoors, but even a pot of common Primula is a nice addition. Extend the flowering season by pinching off dying buds. After the plant has done blooming, consider moving it outside. While inside, do not overwater; wilting even though the plant is getting water is a sign of root rot.
All delicate Primula should be treated about the same, and in no case should you expect a long-lived houseplant. Rather, think of your pot of spring-time Primula like your blooming fall Phalaenopsis Orchid: it’s a beautiful visitor, but will not survive over the long term inside. Once the plant has finished blooming, you can move it outside to a protected spot of your summer garden and hopefully enjoy a season of additional blooms.
Growing Conditions
Light: They prefer brightly lit windowsills, but the indoor fancy plant should not be exposed to direct sunlight. When planting them outside, put in a shady or dappled corner.
Water: It need adequate, even and regular moisture to thrive. They shouldn’t be soggy, but don’t let the soil dry out either. Look for signs of wilting.
Temperature: Moderate to cool. Intense heat can cause wilting and plant failure.
Soil: A loose, very well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize with a weak liquid fertilizer during growth and flowering. Because these are not meant to be long-lived indoor plants, a single application of controlled-release fertilizer may be adequate to get them through the flowering season.
Repotting
It’s unlikely you’ll be repotting your potted Primula. If you do, make sure not to bury them too deep—burying too deep is a prime reason Primula succumb. Bury the plants so the top of the root ball is slightly elevated above the level of the surrounding soil. Never pile soil up around the stem of a flowering plant.
Propagation
They are propagated from seed, which are sown directly in soil or potting media. Most pots of indoors Primula are purchased as flowering plants, destined to be set atop a desk, sill, or table until they’re done flowering. However, if you’re interested in selecting and starting your own Primula pots, sow seeds directly into the pot in fall or early winter and keep the seedlings under fluorescent lights in a warm spot, with regular water. Plants should be blooming by early spring.
Grower’s Tips
Potted indoor Primula are a delightful way to usher out winter or welcome in the spring. They are available in a wide range of striking colors, forming a mass of flowers. Most people prefer the taller, upright delicate Primulas indoors, but even a pot of common Primula is a nice addition. Extend the flowering season by pinching off dying buds. After the plant has done blooming, consider moving it outside. While inside, do not overwater; wilting even though the plant is getting water is a sign of root rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Flowers of Hellebores (genus Helleborus) are a welcome sight when they bloom in late winter to early spring, sometimes while the ground is still covered with snow. Different varieties of the Hellebore plant offer a range of flower colors, from white to black. One of the earliest blooms spotted in many areas, nodding hellebore flowers are often fragrant and long-lasting.
Growing Hellebores is a worthwhile task for the gardener. Aside from lovely and unusual flowers, the Hellebore plant has attractive green foliage that is aesthetically pleasing in the landscape.
Once established, Hellebore care is minimal. This herbaceous or evergreen perennial is disliked by deer and other animal pests prone to munching on plants. All parts of the Hellebore plant are poisonous, so take care to keep children and pets away.
Growing Conditions and General Care
When planting from seed or division, place the Hellebore into well-draining, organic soil in a filtered sun or shady location. The Hellebore plant will return for many years; make sure the space will accommodate growth and has proper sunlight.
Hellebores need no more than a few hours of dappled light and grow successfully in shady areas. Plant the Hellebore under deciduous trees or scattered through a woodland garden or shaded natural area.
Soaking the soil in which the Hellebore is growing helps the Hellebore plant to look its best. Hellebore care includes removal of older leaves when they appear damaged.
Care for Hellebores should also include careful fertilization. Too much nitrogen may result in lush foliage and a shortage of blooms.
Plant Hellebore seeds in the fall. A 60-day moist chilling period is needed when planting seeds of the Hellebore plant. Planting seed in fall allows this to happen naturally in areas with cold winters. Wait three to four years for blooms on young plants grown from seed. Divide overgrown clumps in spring, after flowering or in autumn.
Growing Hellebores is a worthwhile task for the gardener. Aside from lovely and unusual flowers, the Hellebore plant has attractive green foliage that is aesthetically pleasing in the landscape.
Once established, Hellebore care is minimal. This herbaceous or evergreen perennial is disliked by deer and other animal pests prone to munching on plants. All parts of the Hellebore plant are poisonous, so take care to keep children and pets away.
Growing Conditions and General Care
When planting from seed or division, place the Hellebore into well-draining, organic soil in a filtered sun or shady location. The Hellebore plant will return for many years; make sure the space will accommodate growth and has proper sunlight.
Hellebores need no more than a few hours of dappled light and grow successfully in shady areas. Plant the Hellebore under deciduous trees or scattered through a woodland garden or shaded natural area.
Soaking the soil in which the Hellebore is growing helps the Hellebore plant to look its best. Hellebore care includes removal of older leaves when they appear damaged.
Care for Hellebores should also include careful fertilization. Too much nitrogen may result in lush foliage and a shortage of blooms.
Plant Hellebore seeds in the fall. A 60-day moist chilling period is needed when planting seeds of the Hellebore plant. Planting seed in fall allows this to happen naturally in areas with cold winters. Wait three to four years for blooms on young plants grown from seed. Divide overgrown clumps in spring, after flowering or in autumn.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Narcissus are the classic spring-flowering bulb. For many people, appearance of these delicate flowers outside signals the end of winter and the beginning of spring. Indoor gardeners can enjoy Narcissus too. They are generally less than a foot (30 cm) in height and bought already in bloom in decorative pots. Like other spring-flowering bulbs, Narcissus can be forced to bloom, but will require a chilling period of about 12 weeks.
Growing Conditions
Light: For established plants, place them in bright light as on a east or south windowsill. Bulbs that have not sprouted should be kept away from direct sunlight until new growth emerges and the plants are established.
Water: Many people start Narcissus from bulbs. If you’re doing this, plant the bulbs in moist potting media with the pointed end facing up. Keep the soil continuously moist, but not soaking. They can also be grown directly in stones or gravel by suspending or anchoring the bulbs in the substrate and adding just enough water to reach the base of the bulb. In all cases, it’s crucial to avoid letting the body of the bulb become saturated or sit in water–it will quickly rot. New growth should emerge within a few days to a few weeks after planting, depending on the temperature. The bloom should follow in 4-6 weeks.
Temperature: Cooler (around 65ºF/18ºC).
Soil: Bulbs can be planted in regular potting soil or in pebbles or clay. The key is to keep the balance of moisture right: they should have constant moisture, but never be soaked.
Fertilizer: During growing period, use weak liquid fertilizer weekly. Young plants shouldn’t require fertilizer as they will draw all their nutrition from the bulb itself.
Propagation
Like other bulbs, Narcissus multiply by putting out new bulbs and forming a clump. However, as with other indoor bulbs, most people discard the plant after bloom or transplant it outside. Offsets aren’t as vigorous as their parents and old bulbs will never bloom again indoors.
Repotting
Usually not necessary, as the most common indoor Narcissus (Paperwhite) are sold in decorative pots or as planting kits that are designed to be discarded after the 3-week bloom is over. If you do want to save the bulbs, treat like other bulbs: after the bloom is over and the plant has died back, dig up the bulb, dry and clean it, and store in a paper bag or container in a cool, dark place until the next spring.
Grower’s Tips
The Paperwhite Narcissus are frequently sold as blooming kits. These are a great way to get started with bulbs. They don’t require a chilling period and bloom readily with a pot of tall, fragrant flowers. The plants may need staking to remain upright as indoor plants frequently become top heavy in small containers and want to tip over. You can prop them up with bamboo stakes.
Growing Conditions
Light: For established plants, place them in bright light as on a east or south windowsill. Bulbs that have not sprouted should be kept away from direct sunlight until new growth emerges and the plants are established.
Water: Many people start Narcissus from bulbs. If you’re doing this, plant the bulbs in moist potting media with the pointed end facing up. Keep the soil continuously moist, but not soaking. They can also be grown directly in stones or gravel by suspending or anchoring the bulbs in the substrate and adding just enough water to reach the base of the bulb. In all cases, it’s crucial to avoid letting the body of the bulb become saturated or sit in water–it will quickly rot. New growth should emerge within a few days to a few weeks after planting, depending on the temperature. The bloom should follow in 4-6 weeks.
Temperature: Cooler (around 65ºF/18ºC).
Soil: Bulbs can be planted in regular potting soil or in pebbles or clay. The key is to keep the balance of moisture right: they should have constant moisture, but never be soaked.
Fertilizer: During growing period, use weak liquid fertilizer weekly. Young plants shouldn’t require fertilizer as they will draw all their nutrition from the bulb itself.
Propagation
Like other bulbs, Narcissus multiply by putting out new bulbs and forming a clump. However, as with other indoor bulbs, most people discard the plant after bloom or transplant it outside. Offsets aren’t as vigorous as their parents and old bulbs will never bloom again indoors.
Repotting
Usually not necessary, as the most common indoor Narcissus (Paperwhite) are sold in decorative pots or as planting kits that are designed to be discarded after the 3-week bloom is over. If you do want to save the bulbs, treat like other bulbs: after the bloom is over and the plant has died back, dig up the bulb, dry and clean it, and store in a paper bag or container in a cool, dark place until the next spring.
Grower’s Tips
The Paperwhite Narcissus are frequently sold as blooming kits. These are a great way to get started with bulbs. They don’t require a chilling period and bloom readily with a pot of tall, fragrant flowers. The plants may need staking to remain upright as indoor plants frequently become top heavy in small containers and want to tip over. You can prop them up with bamboo stakes.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Camellias are one of the most popular winter- and spring-flowering shrubs, providing a vivid splash of color when little else is in bloom. Most spring-flowering Camellias prefer neutral to acid soil (between pH 7 and pH 5) so those on chalky or alkaline soil will struggle.
When to Plant
The best time to plant them is spring, when you can see the flowers, or in autumn. If you buy one in winter, keep it somewhere sheltered and plant it in spring.
Where to Plant
Most Camellias we grow are raised from four species Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua. Camellia saluensis and Camillia reticulate. These are understorey plants found growing under trees near the brighter edges of woods and forests, so they want dappled light in your garden, preferably with overhead leafy shelter.
If you’re growing your Camellia in a container find it a sheltered position, ideally on a north or west-facing wall. This will ensure that the early flowers do not get browned by frost which can easily happen on an cold east-facing wall where morning sun causes a quick thaw. Southern walls are generally too warm and dry.
They need a well-drained position and they will die in water-logged ground due to the lack of oxygen in the soil. They like warm, not hot summers, with plenty of humidity.
Growing Camellias in Pots
Choose a large rugged pot, terracotta, wood or stone, and part fill with ericaceous compost and then add your plant and back fill so that the level of the pot is level with the soil. Water well, preferably with water taken from a water butt. If you do use tap water, which tends to be alkaline, allow it to stand for a morning first.
Re-pot every other year into fresh potting compost. In the intervening years remove the top 2 inches (5 cm) of compost and add fresh compost. You can re-pot back into the same pot if you trim off up to a third of the roots to make room for fresh potting compost, or go up into a larger pot. This regime will keep your Camellia happy.
Growing Camellias in the Ground
Camellias are fast-growing tap-rotted plants and the new growth can snap off in windy positions so staking is advisable for the first few years until the Camellia becomes bushy. They do tolerate windy conditions however, once established, and are often used as windbreaks in gardens where they thrive.
How to Plant
Dig a hole twice the size of the pot and prepare a mixture of leaf mold, garden compost and some animal manure. If this isn’t possible use a loam based compost and add a slow release fertilizer.
Take the plant out of the pot and loosen the root ball with your fingers.
Place the plant in the hole so that the top is level with the ground. Use a bamboo cane balanced on either side of the hole if you’re unsure.
Pruning
This is best done lightly in spring after flowering, in April and May, and this is good practice with all evergreens. However pruning is not necessary! Leave it alone unless it’s got too large.
Growing from Seed
In warm gardens Camellias can set large seeds of hazel nut size inside quince-like fruits. Remove the brown seeds and push them into a pot filled with compost and grit, ensuring they are just below the surface. They will produce a plant within two years for most.
Taking Cuttings
The best time to take cuttings is between August and September. Choose new growth and cut off a section of growth. Pull side shoots away so they have a heel – a ripped off end.
Pull off the lower leaves and trim the bottom of the cutting to get rid of the wispy end and dip the cuttings into hormone rooting powder. Push the cuttings into a mixture of peat and sand and keep them in a warm place out of full sun – ideally the temperature should be 65°F (15°C). Pot up rooted cuttings in the following spring.
When to Plant
The best time to plant them is spring, when you can see the flowers, or in autumn. If you buy one in winter, keep it somewhere sheltered and plant it in spring.
Where to Plant
Most Camellias we grow are raised from four species Camellia japonica, Camellia sasanqua. Camellia saluensis and Camillia reticulate. These are understorey plants found growing under trees near the brighter edges of woods and forests, so they want dappled light in your garden, preferably with overhead leafy shelter.
If you’re growing your Camellia in a container find it a sheltered position, ideally on a north or west-facing wall. This will ensure that the early flowers do not get browned by frost which can easily happen on an cold east-facing wall where morning sun causes a quick thaw. Southern walls are generally too warm and dry.
They need a well-drained position and they will die in water-logged ground due to the lack of oxygen in the soil. They like warm, not hot summers, with plenty of humidity.
Growing Camellias in Pots
Choose a large rugged pot, terracotta, wood or stone, and part fill with ericaceous compost and then add your plant and back fill so that the level of the pot is level with the soil. Water well, preferably with water taken from a water butt. If you do use tap water, which tends to be alkaline, allow it to stand for a morning first.
Re-pot every other year into fresh potting compost. In the intervening years remove the top 2 inches (5 cm) of compost and add fresh compost. You can re-pot back into the same pot if you trim off up to a third of the roots to make room for fresh potting compost, or go up into a larger pot. This regime will keep your Camellia happy.
Growing Camellias in the Ground
Camellias are fast-growing tap-rotted plants and the new growth can snap off in windy positions so staking is advisable for the first few years until the Camellia becomes bushy. They do tolerate windy conditions however, once established, and are often used as windbreaks in gardens where they thrive.
How to Plant
Dig a hole twice the size of the pot and prepare a mixture of leaf mold, garden compost and some animal manure. If this isn’t possible use a loam based compost and add a slow release fertilizer.
Take the plant out of the pot and loosen the root ball with your fingers.
Place the plant in the hole so that the top is level with the ground. Use a bamboo cane balanced on either side of the hole if you’re unsure.
Pruning
This is best done lightly in spring after flowering, in April and May, and this is good practice with all evergreens. However pruning is not necessary! Leave it alone unless it’s got too large.
Growing from Seed
In warm gardens Camellias can set large seeds of hazel nut size inside quince-like fruits. Remove the brown seeds and push them into a pot filled with compost and grit, ensuring they are just below the surface. They will produce a plant within two years for most.
Taking Cuttings
The best time to take cuttings is between August and September. Choose new growth and cut off a section of growth. Pull side shoots away so they have a heel – a ripped off end.
Pull off the lower leaves and trim the bottom of the cutting to get rid of the wispy end and dip the cuttings into hormone rooting powder. Push the cuttings into a mixture of peat and sand and keep them in a warm place out of full sun – ideally the temperature should be 65°F (15°C). Pot up rooted cuttings in the following spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Gloriosa Lilies (the genus Gloriosa), also known as Flame Lilies and Glory Lilies, thrive in fertile, well-drained soil in full to partial sun. Hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11, they can be overwintered successfully in zone 9 with winter mulch. In cooler areas, Gloriosa Lilies can be grown successfully during the summer and lifted and stored for the winter.
These exotic-looking lilies produce an abundance of yellow and red flowers with petals that curl backward to resemble a flash of brilliant flames. They can reach heights of 8 feet (2.4 m) and require a trellis or wall to climb. Although climbing lilies do not produce tendrils, the specialized leaves of the Gloriosa Lily cling to the trellis or other plant material, to pull the vine upward.
Growing Conditions
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
The ideal time for Gloriosa Lily planting is in the spring after the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed. Plant the Gloriosa Lily tubers approximately 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) from the trellis. Dig a hole to the depth of 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) and lay the tuber on its side in the hole.
Space the tubers 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart to allow room for the mature plants to grow. Cover the tubers and gently firm the soil down to remove air pockets and secure the tubers.
General Care
Water the newly planted tuber to saturate the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to give your Gloriosa Lily a good start. Keep the soil evenly moist until shoots appear in two to three weeks. Reduce water to once or twice a week or whenever the soil feels dry an inch below the surface. Gloriosa Lilies typically require an inch of rain and week and need supplemental watering during dry periods.
Train the vines to climb the trellis by tying them to the trellis with soft plant ties, if necessary. Although Gloriosa Lilies cling to the trellis once established, they may need some help from you to get them started.
Fertilize Gloriosa Lilies every two weeks with water-soluble fertilizer designed for flowering plants. This provides the nutrients needed to promote healthy blooming.
Cut the vines back in the fall after they are killed by the frost. Tubers can be lifted and stored in moist peat moss in a cool, dark place for the winter and replanted in the spring.
These exotic-looking lilies produce an abundance of yellow and red flowers with petals that curl backward to resemble a flash of brilliant flames. They can reach heights of 8 feet (2.4 m) and require a trellis or wall to climb. Although climbing lilies do not produce tendrils, the specialized leaves of the Gloriosa Lily cling to the trellis or other plant material, to pull the vine upward.
Growing Conditions
Select a location that receives six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. In southern climates, a location that allows the vines to grow in full sun while the roots of the plant remain shaded is the best location for growing a Gloriosa Lily plant. Some protection from afternoon sun may be needed as well.
Prepare the soil by tilling to a depth of 8 inches (20 cm) and amending with generous amounts of organic matter such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure. Organic matter improves both drainage and aeration and provides a slow-release fertilizer to your Gloriosa Lilies.
Erect a 6-to 8-foot (1.8 to 2.4 m) trellis for your Gloriosa Lilies prior to planting. Check that it is secure and will not topple under the weight of the growing Gloriosa Lilies.
The ideal time for Gloriosa Lily planting is in the spring after the soil has warmed and all danger of frost has passed. Plant the Gloriosa Lily tubers approximately 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) from the trellis. Dig a hole to the depth of 2 to 4 inches (5 to 10 cm) and lay the tuber on its side in the hole.
Space the tubers 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) apart to allow room for the mature plants to grow. Cover the tubers and gently firm the soil down to remove air pockets and secure the tubers.
General Care
Water the newly planted tuber to saturate the soil to a depth of 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) to give your Gloriosa Lily a good start. Keep the soil evenly moist until shoots appear in two to three weeks. Reduce water to once or twice a week or whenever the soil feels dry an inch below the surface. Gloriosa Lilies typically require an inch of rain and week and need supplemental watering during dry periods.
Train the vines to climb the trellis by tying them to the trellis with soft plant ties, if necessary. Although Gloriosa Lilies cling to the trellis once established, they may need some help from you to get them started.
Fertilize Gloriosa Lilies every two weeks with water-soluble fertilizer designed for flowering plants. This provides the nutrients needed to promote healthy blooming.
Cut the vines back in the fall after they are killed by the frost. Tubers can be lifted and stored in moist peat moss in a cool, dark place for the winter and replanted in the spring.
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