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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Both summer and winter savory are members of the mint or Lamiaceae family and are relatives of rosemaryand thyme. Cultivated for at least 2,000 years, savoryhas a multitude of uses after harvesting and is a worthy addition to any herb garden. The following article contains information on harvesting savory herbs such as when and how to harvest savory.
Savory Uses after Harvesting
With its peppery taste and spicy aroma, it’s no wonder that savory has found its way into a plethora of dishes. Bean dishes are often associated with savory and it is often combined with other herbs such as those comprising Herbes de Provence, a classic French combination of herbs. Savory is also said to have an aphrodisiac effect, and is useful as an antiseptic and as tonic for digestive ailments.
Savory can be used fresh or dried and is classically infused in vinegar. Some types of savory have tough leaves that are softened with long cooking times such as with bean dishes or stews, hence the term ‘savory stew.’ San Francisco used to be called ‘Yerba Buena,’ which translates to ‘the good herb’ in reference to the low growing, creeping savory native for that region. Early settlers there dried the herb and used it as a tea. Today, savory can be found in toothpaste and soap as well as in teas and infused vinegars. It pairs well with fowl, wild game, and legumes.
When Do You Harvest Savory?
Summer savory is an annual unlike winter savory, thus it only grows during warm months, then flowers and goes to seed. Begin picking summer savory when it is at least 6 inches (15 cm.) tall. Continue to harvest throughout the growing season as needed. Winter savory is a perennial and can be picked year round. Harvest in the morning after the dew has dried and the essential oils are at their peak.
How to Harvest Savory
There’s no big mystery or difficulty when harvesting savory herbs. Cut the leaves and shoots from mature stalks only and don’t snip all the way down to the base of each stalk. Leave most of the stalk behind so the plant will continue to grow. Harvesting summer savory herbs encourages the plant to grow, but cutting the plant too severely does not. Store the savory in a glass of water until ready to use. Use the herbs as soon as possible to take advantage of their fresh peppery essential oils. The longer any fresh herb sits, the less the flavor becomes. Continue picking savory throughout the growing season. If you wish to dry the savory, bundle the stems with twine and hang the bundle in a well aerated area out of direct sunlight. You can also dry savory in a dehydrator. Set the temperature of the food dehydrator at no higher than 95 F. (35 C.).
Savory Uses after Harvesting
With its peppery taste and spicy aroma, it’s no wonder that savory has found its way into a plethora of dishes. Bean dishes are often associated with savory and it is often combined with other herbs such as those comprising Herbes de Provence, a classic French combination of herbs. Savory is also said to have an aphrodisiac effect, and is useful as an antiseptic and as tonic for digestive ailments.
Savory can be used fresh or dried and is classically infused in vinegar. Some types of savory have tough leaves that are softened with long cooking times such as with bean dishes or stews, hence the term ‘savory stew.’ San Francisco used to be called ‘Yerba Buena,’ which translates to ‘the good herb’ in reference to the low growing, creeping savory native for that region. Early settlers there dried the herb and used it as a tea. Today, savory can be found in toothpaste and soap as well as in teas and infused vinegars. It pairs well with fowl, wild game, and legumes.
When Do You Harvest Savory?
Summer savory is an annual unlike winter savory, thus it only grows during warm months, then flowers and goes to seed. Begin picking summer savory when it is at least 6 inches (15 cm.) tall. Continue to harvest throughout the growing season as needed. Winter savory is a perennial and can be picked year round. Harvest in the morning after the dew has dried and the essential oils are at their peak.
How to Harvest Savory
There’s no big mystery or difficulty when harvesting savory herbs. Cut the leaves and shoots from mature stalks only and don’t snip all the way down to the base of each stalk. Leave most of the stalk behind so the plant will continue to grow. Harvesting summer savory herbs encourages the plant to grow, but cutting the plant too severely does not. Store the savory in a glass of water until ready to use. Use the herbs as soon as possible to take advantage of their fresh peppery essential oils. The longer any fresh herb sits, the less the flavor becomes. Continue picking savory throughout the growing season. If you wish to dry the savory, bundle the stems with twine and hang the bundle in a well aerated area out of direct sunlight. You can also dry savory in a dehydrator. Set the temperature of the food dehydrator at no higher than 95 F. (35 C.).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Can rosemary survive outside over winter? The answer depends on your growing zone, as rosemary plants are unlikely to survive temperatures below 10 to 20 F. (-7 to -12 C.). If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 or below, rosemary will only survive if you bring it indoors before the arrival of freezing temperatures. On the other hand, if your growing zone is at least zone 8, you can grow rosemary outdoors year round with protection during the chilly months. However, there are exceptions, as a few newer rosemary cultivars have been bred to survive temperatures as low as USDA zone 6 with ample winter protection. Ask your local garden center about ‘Arp,’ ‘Athens Blue Spire’ and ‘Madeline Hill.’ Read on to learn about protecting rosemary plants in winter.
How to Protect Rosemary in Winter
Here are some tips for winterizing rosemary plants:
Plant rosemary in a sunny, sheltered location where the plant is protected from harsh winter winds. A warm spot near your house is your best bet. Prune the plant to about 3 inches after the first frost, then bury the plant entirely with soil or compost. Pile 4 to 6 inches of mulch such as pine needles, straw, finely chopped mulch or chopped leaves over the plant. (Be sure to remove about half of the mulch in spring.) Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that your rosemary plant will survive a cold winter, even with protection. However, you can add a bit of extra protection by covering the plant with a frost blanket during cold snaps. Some gardeners surround rosemary plants with cinderblocks before adding mulch. The blocks provide extra insulation and also help hold the mulch in place.
How to Protect Rosemary in Winter
Here are some tips for winterizing rosemary plants:
Plant rosemary in a sunny, sheltered location where the plant is protected from harsh winter winds. A warm spot near your house is your best bet. Prune the plant to about 3 inches after the first frost, then bury the plant entirely with soil or compost. Pile 4 to 6 inches of mulch such as pine needles, straw, finely chopped mulch or chopped leaves over the plant. (Be sure to remove about half of the mulch in spring.) Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that your rosemary plant will survive a cold winter, even with protection. However, you can add a bit of extra protection by covering the plant with a frost blanket during cold snaps. Some gardeners surround rosemary plants with cinderblocks before adding mulch. The blocks provide extra insulation and also help hold the mulch in place.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
So you planted garlic in the garden and you let it grow all winter and all spring and now you are wondering when you should be harvesting garlic. If you dig it up too soon, the bulbs will be teeny and if you dig it too late, the bulbs will be split and no good for eating, so knowing when to harvest garlic is an important thing.
When Do You Harvest Garlic?
The easiest way to know when to harvest garlic is simply to look at the leaves. When the leaves are one-third brown, you’ll need to start testing the bulbs to see if they are the proper size. This is easy to do. Simply loosen the dirt above one or two garlic bulbs and get an idea of their size while still keeping them in the ground. If they look large enough, then you’re ready to make your garden garlic harvest. If they’re still too small, then your garlic will need to grow a bit more.
You don’t want to wait too long, though. Once the leaves get to be one-half to two-thirds brown, you should harvest the garlic regardless of size. Putting off harvesting garlic until after the leaves are completely brown will only result in an inedible bulb. Your garden garlic harvest will normally happen some time in July or August if you are in a climate that is ideal for garlic growth. In warmer climates, you can expect to be harvesting garlic as early as spring, though only certain garlic varieties will perform well in warm climates.
How to Harvest Garlic
Now that you know when to harvest garlic, you need to know how to harvest garlic. While it may seem like harvesting garlic is just a matter of digging the bulbs out of the ground, there are a few things to keep in mind.
Dig, don’t pull. When you are harvesting garlic, you need to dig it out of the ground. If you try to pull it out, you will only break the leaves off.
Be gentle. Freshly dug garlic bulbs will bruise easily and it is easy to accidentally slice a bulb open while digging if you aren’t careful. When harvesting garlic, lift each bulb individually from the ground. Place it in a container where it won’t get jostled too much.
Get the garlic out of the sun as soon as possible. Garlic will blanch and burn in the sun. Put the freshly dug unwashed bulbs in a dark, dry place as soon as possible.
Now you know when to harvest garlic and how to harvest garlic. Really, the only thing left to do is eat your garden garlic harvest.
When Do You Harvest Garlic?
The easiest way to know when to harvest garlic is simply to look at the leaves. When the leaves are one-third brown, you’ll need to start testing the bulbs to see if they are the proper size. This is easy to do. Simply loosen the dirt above one or two garlic bulbs and get an idea of their size while still keeping them in the ground. If they look large enough, then you’re ready to make your garden garlic harvest. If they’re still too small, then your garlic will need to grow a bit more.
You don’t want to wait too long, though. Once the leaves get to be one-half to two-thirds brown, you should harvest the garlic regardless of size. Putting off harvesting garlic until after the leaves are completely brown will only result in an inedible bulb. Your garden garlic harvest will normally happen some time in July or August if you are in a climate that is ideal for garlic growth. In warmer climates, you can expect to be harvesting garlic as early as spring, though only certain garlic varieties will perform well in warm climates.
How to Harvest Garlic
Now that you know when to harvest garlic, you need to know how to harvest garlic. While it may seem like harvesting garlic is just a matter of digging the bulbs out of the ground, there are a few things to keep in mind.
Dig, don’t pull. When you are harvesting garlic, you need to dig it out of the ground. If you try to pull it out, you will only break the leaves off.
Be gentle. Freshly dug garlic bulbs will bruise easily and it is easy to accidentally slice a bulb open while digging if you aren’t careful. When harvesting garlic, lift each bulb individually from the ground. Place it in a container where it won’t get jostled too much.
Get the garlic out of the sun as soon as possible. Garlic will blanch and burn in the sun. Put the freshly dug unwashed bulbs in a dark, dry place as soon as possible.
Now you know when to harvest garlic and how to harvest garlic. Really, the only thing left to do is eat your garden garlic harvest.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Cacti are among the best known warm-weather plants, so you may be surprised to hear about freeze damage to cactus. But even in summer toasty regions of Arizona, temperatures can dip down to below 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 C.) in winter. This can result in freeze damage to cactus. If you find your cactus damaged after a cold snap, you’ll want to know how to care for a frozen cactus. Can a frozen cactus be saved? How do you start reviving a frozen cactus? Read on for tips in assisting a cactus damaged by cold.
Recognizing a Cactus Damaged by Cold
When you have a cactus damaged by cold, how can you tell? The first sign of freeze damage to cactus plants is softened tissue. This tissue often turns white, initially. However, in time the damaged areas of the plant turn black and decay. Finally, the freeze damaged parts of the succulent will fall off.
How to Care for a Frozen Cactus
When you see your cactus tips or trunks turn from green to white to purple, don’t take any action. The odds are good that the cactus will heal itself. But when those tips turn from green to white to black, you will need to prune. Wait until a sunny day later in the spring season to be sure that the cold weather has passed. Then snip off the black parts. This means that you cut off the arm tips or even remove the “head” of the cactus if it is black. Cut at a joint if the cactus is jointed. Don’t hesitate to act once the cactus parts have blackened. The black portions are dead and rotting. Failure to remove them can spread decay and kill the entire cactus. Assuming things go according to plan, your pruning will help in reviving a frozen cactus. In a few months, the chopped section will sprout some new growth. It won’t look exactly the same, but the parts of the cactus damaged by cold will be gone.
Recognizing a Cactus Damaged by Cold
When you have a cactus damaged by cold, how can you tell? The first sign of freeze damage to cactus plants is softened tissue. This tissue often turns white, initially. However, in time the damaged areas of the plant turn black and decay. Finally, the freeze damaged parts of the succulent will fall off.
How to Care for a Frozen Cactus
When you see your cactus tips or trunks turn from green to white to purple, don’t take any action. The odds are good that the cactus will heal itself. But when those tips turn from green to white to black, you will need to prune. Wait until a sunny day later in the spring season to be sure that the cold weather has passed. Then snip off the black parts. This means that you cut off the arm tips or even remove the “head” of the cactus if it is black. Cut at a joint if the cactus is jointed. Don’t hesitate to act once the cactus parts have blackened. The black portions are dead and rotting. Failure to remove them can spread decay and kill the entire cactus. Assuming things go according to plan, your pruning will help in reviving a frozen cactus. In a few months, the chopped section will sprout some new growth. It won’t look exactly the same, but the parts of the cactus damaged by cold will be gone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a popular gift and houseplant. Blooming specifically during periods with long nights, it’s a welcome flash of color in the dead of winter. If you’re looking to plant or repot a Christmas cactus, however, you should be aware of a few specific soil requirements to ensure a good bloom in the next season. Keep reading to learn about soil requirements for Christmas cactus.
Christmas Cactus Soil Requirements
In its native Brazil, the Christmas cactus has very specific growing conditions. It’s an epiphyte, meaning it grows on the trunks of larger trees and gains most of its moisture from the air. It sinks its roots into decomposing leaves and debris resting on the sides of trees. It also draws some moisture from this makeshift soil, but because of its small volume and position high in the air, this soil dries out easily even with daily rainfall. This means that the best soil for Christmas cactus is extremely well draining.
How to Make a Potting Mix for Christmas Cactus
You can buy commercial potting mixes for cacti that will ensure good drainage. With just a little effort, however, you can make your own. The easiest medium requires three parts regular potting soil mixed with two parts perlite. This will provide perfectly adequate drainage. If you’d like to take it a step further, mix equal parts compost, perlite, and milled peat. Water your Christmas cactus whenever the soil is dry – try not to let the soil dry out completely, but don’t let water stand in the pot or the saucer underneath. Drainage is much more important than water volume. Used to growing in small nooks on trees, the Christmas cactus likes being slightly root bound. Plant it in a pot that provides just a little room for growth, and transplant it no more frequently than every three years.
Christmas Cactus Soil Requirements
In its native Brazil, the Christmas cactus has very specific growing conditions. It’s an epiphyte, meaning it grows on the trunks of larger trees and gains most of its moisture from the air. It sinks its roots into decomposing leaves and debris resting on the sides of trees. It also draws some moisture from this makeshift soil, but because of its small volume and position high in the air, this soil dries out easily even with daily rainfall. This means that the best soil for Christmas cactus is extremely well draining.
How to Make a Potting Mix for Christmas Cactus
You can buy commercial potting mixes for cacti that will ensure good drainage. With just a little effort, however, you can make your own. The easiest medium requires three parts regular potting soil mixed with two parts perlite. This will provide perfectly adequate drainage. If you’d like to take it a step further, mix equal parts compost, perlite, and milled peat. Water your Christmas cactus whenever the soil is dry – try not to let the soil dry out completely, but don’t let water stand in the pot or the saucer underneath. Drainage is much more important than water volume. Used to growing in small nooks on trees, the Christmas cactus likes being slightly root bound. Plant it in a pot that provides just a little room for growth, and transplant it no more frequently than every three years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) is a popular winter-flowering houseplant that usually blooms over the holidays at the end of the calendar year. Varieties offer flowers in many different shades. Native to Brazil, Christmas cacti are epiphytes that grow in tree branches in rain forests. Since their stems hang down, they are perfect plants for hanging baskets. If a stem of your mature Christmas cactus is getting woody, it doesn’t mean that anything is amiss. That means that there is no reason to try fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. Read on for more information about woody Christmas cactus.
Woody Christmas Cactus Stems
A Christmas cactus that is cared for properly will last a long time, a quarter century or even longer. Ideal Christmas cactus growing conditions include light shade in summer and full sunlight during fall and winter. Too much sun in summer pales or yellows the plants. Christmas cactus plants generally grow large with age. As the plant gets older and bigger, and the base of the stems get woody. There is no need to think about fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. This is a perfectly natural condition and woody Christmas stems indicate a healthy plant.
Care of Old Christmas Cactus
If you buy or inherit an old Christmas cactus, it is likely a large plant. Proper care of old Christmas cactus includes cutting back overgrown branches and, sometimes, repotting the plant. One of the first steps in care of old Christmas cactus is a good trim of the branches. When the branches become too long and heavy, they are likely to break off, so it’s better if you trim instead. This is especially true if the leaves look shriveled, thin or limp at the ends. Trim the branches back by clipping at the segment joints. For overgrown cactus, cut each branch back by at least a third and up to three-quarters of its length. If a branch of the Christmas cactus is getting woody at the base, you can even cut it all the way back to the woody section. New green sections will grow from the wood.
Woody Christmas Cactus Stems
A Christmas cactus that is cared for properly will last a long time, a quarter century or even longer. Ideal Christmas cactus growing conditions include light shade in summer and full sunlight during fall and winter. Too much sun in summer pales or yellows the plants. Christmas cactus plants generally grow large with age. As the plant gets older and bigger, and the base of the stems get woody. There is no need to think about fixing a Christmas cactus with woody stems. This is a perfectly natural condition and woody Christmas stems indicate a healthy plant.
Care of Old Christmas Cactus
If you buy or inherit an old Christmas cactus, it is likely a large plant. Proper care of old Christmas cactus includes cutting back overgrown branches and, sometimes, repotting the plant. One of the first steps in care of old Christmas cactus is a good trim of the branches. When the branches become too long and heavy, they are likely to break off, so it’s better if you trim instead. This is especially true if the leaves look shriveled, thin or limp at the ends. Trim the branches back by clipping at the segment joints. For overgrown cactus, cut each branch back by at least a third and up to three-quarters of its length. If a branch of the Christmas cactus is getting woody at the base, you can even cut it all the way back to the woody section. New green sections will grow from the wood.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
You’ve been caring for it all year and now that it’s time to expect winter blooms, you find the leathery leaves wilted and limp on your Christmas cactus. You may be wondering why is my Christmas cactus limp? Correct Christmas cactus problems, such as a limp Christmas cactus, with these simple tips.
Christmas Cactus Problems
Wilted or limp Christmas cactus is sometimes caused by a lack of water or too much direct sunlight. If you’ve neglected to water the limp Christmas cactus, begin by giving the plant a limited drink. Continue to water sparingly every few days until the soil is lightly moist.
Soil that is too wet causes Christmas cactus problems too. As an epiphyte in its native home on the tropical forest floor, the Christmas cactus absorbs water and nutrients from the air, and as such can’t handle soggy roots. Poor drainage and soggy roots can make Christmas cactus very limp. If your wilted or limp Christmas cactus has leaves that appear to be parched or scorched, move it to an area with more shade, particularly in the afternoon.
Reviving a Limp Christmas Cactus
When the Christmas cactus is very limp and soil is soggy, repot into fresh soil. Remove the limp Christmas cactus from the pot and gently remove as much soil as possible. Avoid future Christmas cactus problems by mixing your own soil for repotting. Use a good quality potting soil at two parts potting soil to one part sand or vermiculite, assuring sharp drainage. Even if the soil is not soggy, repotting may be the solution to reviving a limp Christmas cactus. While the plant likes to be tight in the pot, moving it to a slightly larger container with fresh soil every few years helps avoid Christmas cactus problems.
Results of Christmas Cactus Problems
If you’re able to revive the plant, you may get winter blooms. The stress the plant has experienced may cause this year’s blooms to drop prematurely. When all your blooms drop at once, expect an outstanding show next year from what was once your limp Christmas cactus.
Christmas Cactus Problems
Wilted or limp Christmas cactus is sometimes caused by a lack of water or too much direct sunlight. If you’ve neglected to water the limp Christmas cactus, begin by giving the plant a limited drink. Continue to water sparingly every few days until the soil is lightly moist.
Soil that is too wet causes Christmas cactus problems too. As an epiphyte in its native home on the tropical forest floor, the Christmas cactus absorbs water and nutrients from the air, and as such can’t handle soggy roots. Poor drainage and soggy roots can make Christmas cactus very limp. If your wilted or limp Christmas cactus has leaves that appear to be parched or scorched, move it to an area with more shade, particularly in the afternoon.
Reviving a Limp Christmas Cactus
When the Christmas cactus is very limp and soil is soggy, repot into fresh soil. Remove the limp Christmas cactus from the pot and gently remove as much soil as possible. Avoid future Christmas cactus problems by mixing your own soil for repotting. Use a good quality potting soil at two parts potting soil to one part sand or vermiculite, assuring sharp drainage. Even if the soil is not soggy, repotting may be the solution to reviving a limp Christmas cactus. While the plant likes to be tight in the pot, moving it to a slightly larger container with fresh soil every few years helps avoid Christmas cactus problems.
Results of Christmas Cactus Problems
If you’re able to revive the plant, you may get winter blooms. The stress the plant has experienced may cause this year’s blooms to drop prematurely. When all your blooms drop at once, expect an outstanding show next year from what was once your limp Christmas cactus.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a jungle cactus that prefers humidity and moisture, unlike its standard cactus cousins, which require a warm, arid climate. A winter-bloomer, Christmas cactus displays flowers in shades of red, lavender, rose, purple, white, peach, cream and orange, depending on the variety. These prolific growers eventually need to be repotted. Repotting Christmas cactus isn’t complicated, but the key is knowing when and how to repot a Christmas cactus.
When to Repot Christmas Cactus
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming. Don’t rush to repot Christmas cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant. Repotting Christmas cactus every three to four years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot a Christmas Cactus
Here are some Christmas cactus potting tips that will help you find success: Take your time because repotting a Christmas cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand. Repot Christmas cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air. Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water. Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately. Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care rout
When to Repot Christmas Cactus
Most plants are best repotted when they display new growth in spring, but Christmas cactus repotting should be done after blooming ends and the flowers have wilted in late winter or early spring. Never attempt to repot the plant while it is actively blooming. Don’t rush to repot Christmas cactus because this hardy succulent is happiest when its roots are slightly crowded. Frequent repotting can damage the plant. Repotting Christmas cactus every three to four years is usually adequate, but you may prefer to wait until the plant begins to look tired or you notice a few roots growing through the drainage hole. Often, a plant can bloom happily in the same pot for years.
How to Repot a Christmas Cactus
Here are some Christmas cactus potting tips that will help you find success: Take your time because repotting a Christmas cactus can be tricky. A lightweight, well-drained potting mixture is critical, so look for a commercial mix for bromeliads or succulents. You can also use a mixture of two-thirds regular potting soil and one-third sand. Repot Christmas cactus into a pot only slightly larger than the current container. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Although Christmas cactus likes moisture, it will soon rot if the roots are deprived of air. Remove the plant from its pot, along with the surrounding soil ball, and then gently loosen the roots. If the potting mix is compacted, gently wash it away from the roots with a little water. Replant the Christmas cactus in the new pot so the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim of the pot. Fill in around the roots with fresh potting mix and pat the soil lightly to remove air pockets. Water it moderately. Put the plant in a shady location for two or three days, then resume the plant’s normal care rout
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a long-lived plant with bright blooms that appear around the winter holidays. Normally, blooms last at least one to two weeks. If conditions are just right, the impressive flowers may hang around for seven to eight weeks. Although the plant is relatively low-maintenance, dropping or wilting Christmas cactus blooms are usually an indication of improper watering or sudden temperature changes.
Flower Wilt on Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus bloom wilt is often caused by excessively dry soil. Be careful and don’t over-correct, as watering a Christmas cactus can be tricky and too much moisture may cause more serious problems, such as stem or root rot, which are usually deadly. For most of the year, you shouldn’t water the plant until the soil feels slightly dry, and then water deeply so the entire root ball is saturated. Let the pot drain thoroughly before replacing the plant on a drainage saucer. However, it’s important to note that slightly different tactics are needed when the plant begins to bloom. During the blooming period, water just enough to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy or bone dry. Don’t water deeply during this time, as soggy roots may cause blooms to wilt and drop. Don’t fertilize the plant while it is blooming either. From October on through winter, Christmas cactus prefers cool nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 F. (12-18 C) during the blooming period. Keep the plant away from cold drafts, as well as fireplaces or heat vents. Christmas cactus also needs relatively high humidity, which replicates its natural, tropical environment.
If the air in your home is dry during the winter months, place the pot on top of a layer of pebbles in a plate or tray, then keep the pebbles moist to increase the humidity around the plant. Be sure the pot is standing on the moist pebbles and not in the water, as water wicking into the soil through the drainage hole can cause the roots to rot.
Flower Wilt on Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus bloom wilt is often caused by excessively dry soil. Be careful and don’t over-correct, as watering a Christmas cactus can be tricky and too much moisture may cause more serious problems, such as stem or root rot, which are usually deadly. For most of the year, you shouldn’t water the plant until the soil feels slightly dry, and then water deeply so the entire root ball is saturated. Let the pot drain thoroughly before replacing the plant on a drainage saucer. However, it’s important to note that slightly different tactics are needed when the plant begins to bloom. During the blooming period, water just enough to keep the potting mix consistently moist, but never soggy or bone dry. Don’t water deeply during this time, as soggy roots may cause blooms to wilt and drop. Don’t fertilize the plant while it is blooming either. From October on through winter, Christmas cactus prefers cool nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 F. (12-18 C) during the blooming period. Keep the plant away from cold drafts, as well as fireplaces or heat vents. Christmas cactus also needs relatively high humidity, which replicates its natural, tropical environment.
If the air in your home is dry during the winter months, place the pot on top of a layer of pebbles in a plate or tray, then keep the pebbles moist to increase the humidity around the plant. Be sure the pot is standing on the moist pebbles and not in the water, as water wicking into the soil through the drainage hole can cause the roots to rot.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cacti are common gifts around the holidays. They tend to bloom in the winter, with showy flowers present for friends and family to admire as they attend winter festivities. The presence of small children and pets at family functions reminds us that not all plants are safe. Is Christmas cactus toxic? Read on to find out and help protect your pets from any Christmas cactus toxicity.
Is Christmas Cactus Toxic?
The bright salmon to red flowers and intricate pads are characteristic of the Christmas cacti, which tends to bloom around Christmas and gives them their name. The plant is not a true cactus, however, but an epiphyte. It needs bright light and well-drained soil, with moderate water needs. To ensure blooming, withhold water in October and gradually resume again in November. Good news! Unlike many of the holiday plants, Christmas cactus toxicity is not damaging. Mistletoe, holly (berries) and poinsettia are also common during the winter holidays and do have some toxic components, but it is safe to have the Christmas cactus in your home. It isn’t even spiny, so you don’t have to worry about sharp pointy things hurting mouthy dogs and curious cats.
Care of Christmas Cactus Around Pets
Christmas cactus is native to Central and South America. They are classed as Zygocactus, a form of epiphyte that has a similar appearance to traditionally recognized cacti. Epiphytes don’t need a soil based medium to live in but can survive in tree crotches and rocky depressions where organic material has collected and composted down to a rich humic base. Most Christmas cacti are sold in a soil medium which is well-draining. Care of Christmas cactus around pets is similar to that of any tropical plant. They require deep watering followed by allowing the top few inches of soil to dry out before applying moisture anew. The key to achieving bright blooms each year is to allow the plant to dry out in fall and winter. Move the plant to where it receives bright light and ensure temperatures are fairly cool. Ideal temperatures for flowering are 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C). Apply a 0-10-10 fertilizer in October to early November and reapply in February. Although, it is best to train animals not to sample plants in the home, no harm will come to them if they want to try a flower or a bite of foliage. Christmas cactus and pets make perfect housemates as long as your animal doesn’t over eat the plant and destroy its health. Christmas cactus and pets can coexist in harmony in the home but preventive measures on other holiday plants should be taken. Place plants, such as poinsettia, up high where animals can’t reach them. If the family pet is especially persistent, spray the plant with cayenne pepper dissolved in water. The spicy taste will make Fido or Kitty think twice about approaching any plant and avoid poisoning but also safeguard the plant from teething damage and foliar death.
Is Christmas Cactus Toxic?
The bright salmon to red flowers and intricate pads are characteristic of the Christmas cacti, which tends to bloom around Christmas and gives them their name. The plant is not a true cactus, however, but an epiphyte. It needs bright light and well-drained soil, with moderate water needs. To ensure blooming, withhold water in October and gradually resume again in November. Good news! Unlike many of the holiday plants, Christmas cactus toxicity is not damaging. Mistletoe, holly (berries) and poinsettia are also common during the winter holidays and do have some toxic components, but it is safe to have the Christmas cactus in your home. It isn’t even spiny, so you don’t have to worry about sharp pointy things hurting mouthy dogs and curious cats.
Care of Christmas Cactus Around Pets
Christmas cactus is native to Central and South America. They are classed as Zygocactus, a form of epiphyte that has a similar appearance to traditionally recognized cacti. Epiphytes don’t need a soil based medium to live in but can survive in tree crotches and rocky depressions where organic material has collected and composted down to a rich humic base. Most Christmas cacti are sold in a soil medium which is well-draining. Care of Christmas cactus around pets is similar to that of any tropical plant. They require deep watering followed by allowing the top few inches of soil to dry out before applying moisture anew. The key to achieving bright blooms each year is to allow the plant to dry out in fall and winter. Move the plant to where it receives bright light and ensure temperatures are fairly cool. Ideal temperatures for flowering are 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C). Apply a 0-10-10 fertilizer in October to early November and reapply in February. Although, it is best to train animals not to sample plants in the home, no harm will come to them if they want to try a flower or a bite of foliage. Christmas cactus and pets make perfect housemates as long as your animal doesn’t over eat the plant and destroy its health. Christmas cactus and pets can coexist in harmony in the home but preventive measures on other holiday plants should be taken. Place plants, such as poinsettia, up high where animals can’t reach them. If the family pet is especially persistent, spray the plant with cayenne pepper dissolved in water. The spicy taste will make Fido or Kitty think twice about approaching any plant and avoid poisoning but also safeguard the plant from teething damage and foliar death.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a striking plant with bright pink or red blooms that add festive color around the winter holidays. Unlike typical desert cactus, Christmas cactus is a tropical plant that grows in the Brazilian rainforest. The cactus is easy to grow and a cinch to propagate, but Christmas cactus has some unusual attributes that may cause you to wonder what’s going on with your plant. Let’s learn more about roots growing from Christmas cactus plants.
Why Christmas Cactus Has Aerial Roots
If you notice root-like growths on Christmas cactus, don’t be overly concerned. Christmas cactus is an epiphytic plant that grows on trees or rocks in its natural habitat. The roots growing from Christmas cactus are actually aerial roots that help the plant cling to its host. The plant is not a parasite because it doesn’t depend on the tree for food and water. This is where the roots come in handy. Christmas cactus aerial roots help the plant reach sunlight and absorb necessary moisture and nutrients from leaves, humus and other plant debris that surround the plant.
These natural survival mechanisms can give you clues why your potted Christmas cactus is developing aerial roots. For example, low light can cause the plant to send out aerial roots in an attempt to absorb more sunlight. If this is the case, moving the plant into brighter sunlight may diminish the growth of aerial roots. Similarly, the plant may develop aerial roots because it is reaching out to find more water or nutrients. Water the plant deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting soil feels dry to the touch. Water sparingly during fall and winter, providing just enough moisture to keep the plant from wilting. Feed the plant once every month, beginning in late winter or early spring, using a regular houseplant fertilizer. Stop fertilizing in October when the plant is preparing to bloom.
Why Christmas Cactus Has Aerial Roots
If you notice root-like growths on Christmas cactus, don’t be overly concerned. Christmas cactus is an epiphytic plant that grows on trees or rocks in its natural habitat. The roots growing from Christmas cactus are actually aerial roots that help the plant cling to its host. The plant is not a parasite because it doesn’t depend on the tree for food and water. This is where the roots come in handy. Christmas cactus aerial roots help the plant reach sunlight and absorb necessary moisture and nutrients from leaves, humus and other plant debris that surround the plant.
These natural survival mechanisms can give you clues why your potted Christmas cactus is developing aerial roots. For example, low light can cause the plant to send out aerial roots in an attempt to absorb more sunlight. If this is the case, moving the plant into brighter sunlight may diminish the growth of aerial roots. Similarly, the plant may develop aerial roots because it is reaching out to find more water or nutrients. Water the plant deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting soil feels dry to the touch. Water sparingly during fall and winter, providing just enough moisture to keep the plant from wilting. Feed the plant once every month, beginning in late winter or early spring, using a regular houseplant fertilizer. Stop fertilizing in October when the plant is preparing to bloom.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Christmas cactus is a hardy tropical cactus that brightens the environment with gorgeous, red and pink blooms around the winter holidays. Although Christmas cactus is easy to get along with and requires minimal care, it is susceptible to root rot. Usually, this dreaded fungal disease is not caused by inattention, but is the result of improper watering.
Signs of Root Rot in Christmas Cactus
A holiday cactus with root rot displays wilted, limp, sagging growth, but an inspection of the roots will tell the tale.
Remove the plant gently from its pot. If the cactus is affected by rot, the roots will display blackened tips. Depending on the severity of the disease, rotten Christmas cactus roots will be slimy with black or brown decay. If you determine that your Christmas cactus is rotting, it’s critical to act fast. Rot is a deadly disease and once it progresses, the only option is to discard the plant and start fresh. If part of the plant is healthy, you can use a leaf to propagate a new plant.
Treating a Holiday Cactus with Root Rot
If you catch the disease early, you may be able to save it. Remove the Christmas cactus from the container immediately. Trim away affected roots and rinse the remaining roots gently to remove fungus. Place the plant on a paper towel and put it in a warm, well-ventilated location so the roots can dry overnight. Place the Christmas cactus in a dry pot with fresh, lightweight potting soil the next day. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole so the soil can drain freely. Wait a couple of days before watering the newly potted Christmas cactus. When you resume watering, be sure you understand the most effective way to irrigate your Christmas cactus. Always water thoroughly until water drips through the drainage hole, then let the plant drain before returning the pot to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant stand in water. Be careful not to kill the plant with kindness; slightly underwatered conditions are healthiest. Don’t water until the top ½ inch of soil feels dry. Water sparingly during the winter months, but don’t allow the potting mix to become bone dry. Place the plant in bright sunlight during fall and winter and in light shade during spring and summer.
Signs of Root Rot in Christmas Cactus
A holiday cactus with root rot displays wilted, limp, sagging growth, but an inspection of the roots will tell the tale.
Remove the plant gently from its pot. If the cactus is affected by rot, the roots will display blackened tips. Depending on the severity of the disease, rotten Christmas cactus roots will be slimy with black or brown decay. If you determine that your Christmas cactus is rotting, it’s critical to act fast. Rot is a deadly disease and once it progresses, the only option is to discard the plant and start fresh. If part of the plant is healthy, you can use a leaf to propagate a new plant.
Treating a Holiday Cactus with Root Rot
If you catch the disease early, you may be able to save it. Remove the Christmas cactus from the container immediately. Trim away affected roots and rinse the remaining roots gently to remove fungus. Place the plant on a paper towel and put it in a warm, well-ventilated location so the roots can dry overnight. Place the Christmas cactus in a dry pot with fresh, lightweight potting soil the next day. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole so the soil can drain freely. Wait a couple of days before watering the newly potted Christmas cactus. When you resume watering, be sure you understand the most effective way to irrigate your Christmas cactus. Always water thoroughly until water drips through the drainage hole, then let the plant drain before returning the pot to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant stand in water. Be careful not to kill the plant with kindness; slightly underwatered conditions are healthiest. Don’t water until the top ½ inch of soil feels dry. Water sparingly during the winter months, but don’t allow the potting mix to become bone dry. Place the plant in bright sunlight during fall and winter and in light shade during spring and summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Christmas cactus is a familiar plant that produces masses of colorful blooms to brighten the environment in the darkest days of winter. Although Christmas cactus is relatively easy to get along with, it isn’t uncommon to notice a Christmas cactus with yellow leaves. Why do Christmas cactus leaves turn yellow? There are several possible reasons for yellow Christmas cactus leaves.
Troubleshooting a Christmas Cactus with Yellow Leaves
If you notice your Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow, consider the following possibilities:
Time to repot – If the container is packed tightly with roots, the Christmas cactus may be potbound. Move the Christmas cactus to a pot one size larger. Fill the pot with a mixture that drains well, such as two parts potting mix and one part coarse sand or perlite. Water well, then withhold fertilizer for a month after repotting a Christmas cactus. However, don’t rush to repot because this plant actually thrives in a crowded pot. As a general rule, don’t repot unless it’s been at least two or three years since the last repotting.
Improper watering – Yellow Christmas cactus leaves may be a sign that the plant has a disease known as root rot, which is caused by excessive watering or poor drainage. To check for root rot, remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots. Diseased roots will be brown or black, and they may have a mushy appearance or a musty odor. If the plant has rot, it may be doomed; however, you can attempt to save the plant by trimming the rotted roots and moving the plant to a clean pot with fresh potting mix. To prevent root rot, water only when top 2 to 3 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, or if the leaves look flat and wrinkly. Decrease watering after blooming, and provide only enough moisture to prevent the plant from wilting. Nutritional needs – Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow may be an indication that the plant is lacking necessary nutrients, especially if you don’t fertilize regularly. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn using an all-purpose liquid fertilizer. Additionally, Christmas cactus is said to have a high magnesium requirement. As such, some resources recommend a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts mixed in one gallon of water applied once monthly throughout spring and summer.
Stagger feedings and don’t apply the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Too much direct light – Although Christmas cactus benefits from bright light during fall and winter, too much sunlight during the summer months can give the leaves a yellow, washed-out appearance. Now that you know why leaves turn yellow on Christmas cactus, this problem need not be frustrating anymore.
Troubleshooting a Christmas Cactus with Yellow Leaves
If you notice your Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow, consider the following possibilities:
Time to repot – If the container is packed tightly with roots, the Christmas cactus may be potbound. Move the Christmas cactus to a pot one size larger. Fill the pot with a mixture that drains well, such as two parts potting mix and one part coarse sand or perlite. Water well, then withhold fertilizer for a month after repotting a Christmas cactus. However, don’t rush to repot because this plant actually thrives in a crowded pot. As a general rule, don’t repot unless it’s been at least two or three years since the last repotting.
Improper watering – Yellow Christmas cactus leaves may be a sign that the plant has a disease known as root rot, which is caused by excessive watering or poor drainage. To check for root rot, remove the plant from the pot and inspect the roots. Diseased roots will be brown or black, and they may have a mushy appearance or a musty odor. If the plant has rot, it may be doomed; however, you can attempt to save the plant by trimming the rotted roots and moving the plant to a clean pot with fresh potting mix. To prevent root rot, water only when top 2 to 3 inches of soil feel dry to the touch, or if the leaves look flat and wrinkly. Decrease watering after blooming, and provide only enough moisture to prevent the plant from wilting. Nutritional needs – Christmas cactus leaves turning yellow may be an indication that the plant is lacking necessary nutrients, especially if you don’t fertilize regularly. Feed the plant monthly from spring until mid-autumn using an all-purpose liquid fertilizer. Additionally, Christmas cactus is said to have a high magnesium requirement. As such, some resources recommend a supplemental feeding of 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts mixed in one gallon of water applied once monthly throughout spring and summer.
Stagger feedings and don’t apply the Epsom salt mixture the same week you apply regular plant fertilizer. Too much direct light – Although Christmas cactus benefits from bright light during fall and winter, too much sunlight during the summer months can give the leaves a yellow, washed-out appearance. Now that you know why leaves turn yellow on Christmas cactus, this problem need not be frustrating anymore.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
If you have been lucky, you might have received a Christmas cactus as a gift around the winter holidays. There are a couple of varieties of Schlumbergeria blooming cacti that tend to come into flower during certain holidays. These popular plants, which include Easter and Thanksgiving cacti, often come from the nursery bursting with blooms, but getting them to flower the next year can be tricky. This is where the importance of Christmas cactus feeding comes into play. Fertilizing Christmas cactus at just the right time can help ensure your plant is filled with brightly colored tubular blooms.
Christmas Cactus Fertilizer Requirements
Christmas cacti produce trailing jointed stems and wonderful flowers. These plants are epiphytes native to Brazil and make perfect houseplants. For the most part, the cacti are easy to care for and thrive in indirect, bright light, well-draining soil and average moisture. Christmas cactus feeding takes place monthly during the growing season, generally April through October. This will keep your plants in tip-top condition to form buds and eventually that fully bloomed look in time for Christmas.
If you don’t want to keep your cacti gift, you don’t necessarily need to fertilize it. Eventually, the soil will release all it has to offer and the plant will slowly starve to death. New soil and the addition of houseplant food will perk up any lethargic cactus, but timing is essential. Christmas cactus set buds in fall during cooler days with shorter daylight hours. They need 12 hours of darkness to trick the plant into pushing out buds. Fertilizing Christmas cactus during the spring and summer months allows the plant to produce healthy growth to support the flowers. The plant also stores energy to fuel the production of buds. Once autumn arrives, a punishing routine of darker periods, cooler temperatures, reduced water and no additional food, drive the plant to form brilliant hot pink to red flowers.
How to Feed a Christmas Cactus
A bloom formula houseplant fertilizer or a half strength water soluble formula, such as 20-20-20 or 20-10-20, makes an ideal fertilizer for Christmas cactus. Feed monthly during regular watering from late winter to late summer. Alternately, you can choose a time release balanced plant food or one just slightly higher in phosphorus once per month in mid to late summer to enhance flowering. On alternate weeks, fertilize monthly with one teaspoon per gallon water of Epsom salts. This routine will fulfill all the Christmas cactus fertilizer requirements, including the high magnesium needs of this epiphyte. Stop fertilizing in late summer or flower production may suffer. There is no need to fertilize in winter, as the plant is not actively growing. Follow the application rates carefully on any formula to reduce the chance of salt build up in soil. If you are concerned about heavy salts, set the plant in the shower and drench the soil to release any stored salt. Allow the pot to drain freely and the planting medium to dry out before watering anew.
General Care for Christmas Cactus
Using a fertilizer for Christmas cactus is only part of the care ritual. These plants rarely need repotting since they like a crowded environment, but every few years it is necessary to replace the soil. A mixture of half potting soil and half sand or perlite is adequate. Prevent the bottom of the pot from standing in water or root rot may occur. Pinch off the ends of stems after blooming to encourage branching. You can actually root the cuttings after allowing the edge to callus in a sand/soil mixture or pure vermiculite. Move plants outdoors in summer if you wish, but avoid harsh sunlight which can burn the stems. Watch for mealybugs or scale insects and combat with a good horticultural soap spray. Other than that, Christmas cacti are one of the easiest houseplants to grow with year-end rewards to rival those holiday presents.
Christmas Cactus Fertilizer Requirements
Christmas cacti produce trailing jointed stems and wonderful flowers. These plants are epiphytes native to Brazil and make perfect houseplants. For the most part, the cacti are easy to care for and thrive in indirect, bright light, well-draining soil and average moisture. Christmas cactus feeding takes place monthly during the growing season, generally April through October. This will keep your plants in tip-top condition to form buds and eventually that fully bloomed look in time for Christmas.
If you don’t want to keep your cacti gift, you don’t necessarily need to fertilize it. Eventually, the soil will release all it has to offer and the plant will slowly starve to death. New soil and the addition of houseplant food will perk up any lethargic cactus, but timing is essential. Christmas cactus set buds in fall during cooler days with shorter daylight hours. They need 12 hours of darkness to trick the plant into pushing out buds. Fertilizing Christmas cactus during the spring and summer months allows the plant to produce healthy growth to support the flowers. The plant also stores energy to fuel the production of buds. Once autumn arrives, a punishing routine of darker periods, cooler temperatures, reduced water and no additional food, drive the plant to form brilliant hot pink to red flowers.
How to Feed a Christmas Cactus
A bloom formula houseplant fertilizer or a half strength water soluble formula, such as 20-20-20 or 20-10-20, makes an ideal fertilizer for Christmas cactus. Feed monthly during regular watering from late winter to late summer. Alternately, you can choose a time release balanced plant food or one just slightly higher in phosphorus once per month in mid to late summer to enhance flowering. On alternate weeks, fertilize monthly with one teaspoon per gallon water of Epsom salts. This routine will fulfill all the Christmas cactus fertilizer requirements, including the high magnesium needs of this epiphyte. Stop fertilizing in late summer or flower production may suffer. There is no need to fertilize in winter, as the plant is not actively growing. Follow the application rates carefully on any formula to reduce the chance of salt build up in soil. If you are concerned about heavy salts, set the plant in the shower and drench the soil to release any stored salt. Allow the pot to drain freely and the planting medium to dry out before watering anew.
General Care for Christmas Cactus
Using a fertilizer for Christmas cactus is only part of the care ritual. These plants rarely need repotting since they like a crowded environment, but every few years it is necessary to replace the soil. A mixture of half potting soil and half sand or perlite is adequate. Prevent the bottom of the pot from standing in water or root rot may occur. Pinch off the ends of stems after blooming to encourage branching. You can actually root the cuttings after allowing the edge to callus in a sand/soil mixture or pure vermiculite. Move plants outdoors in summer if you wish, but avoid harsh sunlight which can burn the stems. Watch for mealybugs or scale insects and combat with a good horticultural soap spray. Other than that, Christmas cacti are one of the easiest houseplants to grow with year-end rewards to rival those holiday presents.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
While the Christmas cactus may be known under various names (like Thanksgiving cactus or Easter cactus), the scientific name for Christmas cactus, Schlumbergera bridgessii, remains the same – while other plants may differ. This popular, winter-flowering houseplant makes a great addition to nearly any indoor setting. Christmas cactus is not only easy to care for but propagates easily too, making it an exceptional candidate for holiday gift giving. Let’s look at how to how to plant Christmas cactus and care for it.
How to Plant Christmas Cactus
The Christmas cactus is easily propagated by cutting a short Y-shaped segment from the stem tips. Make certain, however, that the cutting is taken from healthy plant foliage only. Plant the segment approximately a quarter of its length deep in slightly sandy soil. Moisten evenly and place the cutting in a well-lit area, staying away from any direct sunlight. To root cuttings for new plants, cut back shoots from the tips, cut at the second joint of each tip. The cutting should show signs of growth within a few weeks, at which time the plant can be transferred to another container, if desired, with a looser potting soil mix of compost, loam and sand.
How to Care for Christmas Cactus
Advice for Christmas cactus care tells us that it performs well under average home conditions with moderate care. The Christmas cactus will adapt to low light conditions, but the plant will produce blooms more readily if exposed to brighter light. That being said, too much direct sunlight can burn its leaves, so keep the Christmas cactus in an appropriate area to avoid this. Christmas cactus moisture is important as well. The plant requires frequent and thorough watering, during its active growth in spring and summer, keeping the soil slightly moist. Allow Christmas cactus moisture levels to drop and dry out some between watering intervals, but never completely, and never let the plant sit in water, as this will lead to root and stem rot. Applying a mild houseplant fertilizer solution every other week is also acceptable.
When considering how to care for Christmas cactus, keep in mind it also prefers temperatures hovering between 60 and 70 degrees F. (15-21 C.) with average to high humidity levels. Placing a tray of pebbles filled with water beneath the Christmas cactus container is a good way to add more humidity to the home. Once the Christmas cactus has ceased all flowering (usually by fall), or about six to eight weeks before you want the plant to rebloom, you should allow the plant to begin its dormancy cycle by cutting back on Christmas cactus moisture and reducing both light and temperature. Simply cut back the watering and make sure the plant receives 12-14 hours of darkness and average temperatures around 50-55 F. (10-12 C.). Also, keep the Christmas cactus away from drafty areas. When you know how to care for Christmas cactus, this plant is not difficult to manage, and when given proper care and placed in a suitable location, the Christmas cactus may even surprise you with additional blooming cycles throughout the year.
How to Plant Christmas Cactus
The Christmas cactus is easily propagated by cutting a short Y-shaped segment from the stem tips. Make certain, however, that the cutting is taken from healthy plant foliage only. Plant the segment approximately a quarter of its length deep in slightly sandy soil. Moisten evenly and place the cutting in a well-lit area, staying away from any direct sunlight. To root cuttings for new plants, cut back shoots from the tips, cut at the second joint of each tip. The cutting should show signs of growth within a few weeks, at which time the plant can be transferred to another container, if desired, with a looser potting soil mix of compost, loam and sand.
How to Care for Christmas Cactus
Advice for Christmas cactus care tells us that it performs well under average home conditions with moderate care. The Christmas cactus will adapt to low light conditions, but the plant will produce blooms more readily if exposed to brighter light. That being said, too much direct sunlight can burn its leaves, so keep the Christmas cactus in an appropriate area to avoid this. Christmas cactus moisture is important as well. The plant requires frequent and thorough watering, during its active growth in spring and summer, keeping the soil slightly moist. Allow Christmas cactus moisture levels to drop and dry out some between watering intervals, but never completely, and never let the plant sit in water, as this will lead to root and stem rot. Applying a mild houseplant fertilizer solution every other week is also acceptable.
When considering how to care for Christmas cactus, keep in mind it also prefers temperatures hovering between 60 and 70 degrees F. (15-21 C.) with average to high humidity levels. Placing a tray of pebbles filled with water beneath the Christmas cactus container is a good way to add more humidity to the home. Once the Christmas cactus has ceased all flowering (usually by fall), or about six to eight weeks before you want the plant to rebloom, you should allow the plant to begin its dormancy cycle by cutting back on Christmas cactus moisture and reducing both light and temperature. Simply cut back the watering and make sure the plant receives 12-14 hours of darkness and average temperatures around 50-55 F. (10-12 C.). Also, keep the Christmas cactus away from drafty areas. When you know how to care for Christmas cactus, this plant is not difficult to manage, and when given proper care and placed in a suitable location, the Christmas cactus may even surprise you with additional blooming cycles throughout the year.
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