文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Also known as angel trumpet or simply “brug,” brugmansia is a shrubby plant with masses of impressive, trumpet-shaped flowers measuring up to 20 inches in length. The stunning blooms appear from spring until early winter. Although little care is required to grow this beauty, brugmansia pests and diseases may compromise the health and longevity of the plant.
Brugmansia Diseases
The most common Brugmansia diseases include:
Fungal wilts
Fungal issues affecting brugmansia include fusarium and verticillium wilt. Both diseases, which enter the plant through the roots and travel up the stem, block transmission of water and cause stunted growth and wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt is usually seen in warm weather, while verticillium is more common when the weather is cool. There are no practical chemical controls for fusarium and verticillium wilt, and the fungi can live in the soil for long periods. The best recourse is to begin with healthy, disease-resistant plants and grow them in contaminant-free potting medium.
Mosaic virus
Tobacco mosaic virus is identified by mosaic-like, yellow or light green areas. Although the virus rarely kills the plant, it can affect its appearance. Once infected, the disease remains for the life of the plant.
Root rot
Rot is a common, usually deadly, fungal disease caused by excessive watering. To prevent root rot, keep the potting mix moist, but never soggy, during the summer months. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn.
Pests of Brugmansia
Brugmansia problems include pests such as:
Whiteflies
Weevils
Thrips
Scale
Aphids
Mites
Take steps to control the pests without chemicals; avoidance of insecticides is an important aspect of pest management. Chemicals are counterproductive because they kill insects such as lady beetles and lacewings that help keep pests in check. Insecticidal soap is useful in the control of sap-sucking insects and poses minimal danger to beneficial insects. Use the product only as directed, and never spray when beneficial insects are present on the leaves. Neem oil is another option.
Tomato hornworms are a different type of pest that can defoliate a plant quickly. The best control is to hand-pick the large, caterpillar-like pests, which are most often seen in mornings and early evenings. If squishing the pests makes you squeamish, drop them into a container of soapy water. Leave hornworms alone if you notice small larvae feeding on the pests. The larvae are trichogramma, parasitic wasps that are extremely effective when it comes to eating the eggs of numerous garden pests. These tiny wasps are highly beneficial in the garden, and they don’t sting.
Brugmansia Diseases
The most common Brugmansia diseases include:
Fungal wilts
Fungal issues affecting brugmansia include fusarium and verticillium wilt. Both diseases, which enter the plant through the roots and travel up the stem, block transmission of water and cause stunted growth and wilted foliage. Fusarium wilt is usually seen in warm weather, while verticillium is more common when the weather is cool. There are no practical chemical controls for fusarium and verticillium wilt, and the fungi can live in the soil for long periods. The best recourse is to begin with healthy, disease-resistant plants and grow them in contaminant-free potting medium.
Mosaic virus
Tobacco mosaic virus is identified by mosaic-like, yellow or light green areas. Although the virus rarely kills the plant, it can affect its appearance. Once infected, the disease remains for the life of the plant.
Root rot
Rot is a common, usually deadly, fungal disease caused by excessive watering. To prevent root rot, keep the potting mix moist, but never soggy, during the summer months. Decrease watering when temperatures drop in late summer or autumn.
Pests of Brugmansia
Brugmansia problems include pests such as:
Whiteflies
Weevils
Thrips
Scale
Aphids
Mites
Take steps to control the pests without chemicals; avoidance of insecticides is an important aspect of pest management. Chemicals are counterproductive because they kill insects such as lady beetles and lacewings that help keep pests in check. Insecticidal soap is useful in the control of sap-sucking insects and poses minimal danger to beneficial insects. Use the product only as directed, and never spray when beneficial insects are present on the leaves. Neem oil is another option.
Tomato hornworms are a different type of pest that can defoliate a plant quickly. The best control is to hand-pick the large, caterpillar-like pests, which are most often seen in mornings and early evenings. If squishing the pests makes you squeamish, drop them into a container of soapy water. Leave hornworms alone if you notice small larvae feeding on the pests. The larvae are trichogramma, parasitic wasps that are extremely effective when it comes to eating the eggs of numerous garden pests. These tiny wasps are highly beneficial in the garden, and they don’t sting.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If you live in a warm climate or in zones 8 through 11, you can prune your knockout roses in the winter. One season occurs in the spring and another in the fall. Pruning mature knockouts in the winter makes sense, but get expert advice from your local nursery or extension service. To prune knockouts in the winter, follow these suggestions.
Step 1
Prune only mature plants that are established and are 2 or 3 years old.
Step 2
Sharpen your clean pruning equipment and always cut at a 45-degree angle.
Step 3
Remove any thin canes or any diseased or damaged canes. If your temperature only rarely drops below freezing, you may have rose pests and eggs that do not die as they would in an area where it freezes hard. Be on the look out for insect damage and remove any canes that look questionable.
Step 4
Strip most of the leaves from the roses in the winter, which makes them vulnerable to pests, and spray with a horticultural oil.
Step 5
Activate the knockout into growth and blooming by pruning it back a little in the late winter before your first growing season in the spring.
Step 6
Keep the roses under control. If you want it smaller than the standard 3 x 4-foot tall size, prune it back in the late spring or early fall after it has bloomed. Be careful not to clip off flower buds.
Step 7
Remove dead or old canes during mild climates ideally, but this can be done at any time. Also cut very thin canes that might be coming up from the ground. You don't have to deadhead knockouts, but you can if you like to keep them looking groomed.
Step 8
Prune mature plants by using the 1/3 rule each year in the winter. Remove 1/3 of the oldest canes and any stems that are damaged, diseased or dead. This will keep the bush vibrant.
Step 1
Prune only mature plants that are established and are 2 or 3 years old.
Step 2
Sharpen your clean pruning equipment and always cut at a 45-degree angle.
Step 3
Remove any thin canes or any diseased or damaged canes. If your temperature only rarely drops below freezing, you may have rose pests and eggs that do not die as they would in an area where it freezes hard. Be on the look out for insect damage and remove any canes that look questionable.
Step 4
Strip most of the leaves from the roses in the winter, which makes them vulnerable to pests, and spray with a horticultural oil.
Step 5
Activate the knockout into growth and blooming by pruning it back a little in the late winter before your first growing season in the spring.
Step 6
Keep the roses under control. If you want it smaller than the standard 3 x 4-foot tall size, prune it back in the late spring or early fall after it has bloomed. Be careful not to clip off flower buds.
Step 7
Remove dead or old canes during mild climates ideally, but this can be done at any time. Also cut very thin canes that might be coming up from the ground. You don't have to deadhead knockouts, but you can if you like to keep them looking groomed.
Step 8
Prune mature plants by using the 1/3 rule each year in the winter. Remove 1/3 of the oldest canes and any stems that are damaged, diseased or dead. This will keep the bush vibrant.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Rose bushes (Rosa spp.) must be pruned at least once or twice each year. Heavy pruning is done in winter or, in some climates, early spring. Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the species. Prune the roses again in summer or fall right after they bloom to tidy them up and encourage new cane growth. Roses that produce flowers in spring and again in fall bloom more profusely in fall when pruned right after their spring bloom cycle.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
The Right Pruning Tool
Use sharp, scissor-type hand pruners to prune roses. Pour household disinfectant over the open hand pruner blades, and let it sit on them for a few minutes to sterilize them, preventing the spread of plant diseases. Rinse off the disinfectant with clear water, and dry the blades with a clean towel. Disinfectant can harm rose stem tissue.
Basics for All Roses
Deadhead, or remove, all remaining faded blooms. Do so by cutting each faded flower's stem ¼ inch above the first set of five leaflets. A flower stem cut higher than that point produces weak new stem growth that either will not have flowers or will have flowers that are smaller than normal.
Prune off all dead, diseased or crossing stems whenever you notice them throughout the growing season. Make each of those cuts at the base of a stem.
Make each pruning cut on a healthy rose cane or stem ¼ inch above a growth bud, which is usually where there are five leaflets. Also make each cut at a 45-degree angle parallel to the growth bud. Buds facing outward produce stems that grow away from the bush's center. Buds facing inward produce stems that grow toward the bush's center. Do not make a cut at too sharp of an angle or too close to the growth bud. A bud damaged by pruning does not grow a new stem.
Insect and Disease Protections
Seal the cut ends of stems that are wider than a pencil by using white household glue to keep out boring insects. Throw dead flowers and stem trimmings in the trash. Leaving them in the garden provides a growing environment for fungal and bacterial diseases that can infect rose bushes.
Shrub and Old Garden Roses
Shrub roses and antique or old garden roses should be trimmed to about two-thirds their heights when they finish blooming. This method is especially important for roses that bloom only once annually, in spring or summer. They bloom on "old wood," or stems that grew the previous year. Pruning them later in the growing season results in less stem growth and reduced blooming the following year.
Climbing Roses
Climbing roses should not be pruned until they are 2 to 3 years old. The stems that produce flowers on climbing roses are called lateral stems. After a climber finishes blooming, use hand pruners to cut each lateral stem ¼ inch above the second or third growth bud. Ever-blooming climbers need to have their old, woody canes completely removed. Those canes are 2 to 3 years old and brown or tan at their bases. Adjust the position of the remaining canes so they are spread evenly across the bushes' support structure. Once-blooming climbers and ramblers need to have their dead, weak or unproductive canes cut back to healthy, white tissue.
All Other Types of Roses
All other roses, including hybrid teas, should be trimmed only lightly after they bloom. Remove their spent blooms with disinfected hand pruners. Trim all their stems about only a few inches, just enough to give the bushes a neater appearance.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
If you're wondering whether your rose bush (Rosa spp.) is dead or alive, you're not alone. Roses go dormant over winter, and most look fairly dead by the time spring rolls around. Even if all of a rose's stems, or canes, look dry and black, the rose still might be alive.
Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety, and many survive winter even if part of them dies back. Several methods can be used to check whether or not a rose bush is still alive in spring. You can also use these methods if you wonder whether or not a rose was killed by a disease or other problem.
Wait for Leaves
The simplest way to determine whether a rose is alive or dead is to wait to see if it sprouts leaves. Watch the plant carefully to see if leaf buds form along the stems. If they do, then you'll know what parts of the plant are dead and what parts are alive. Once you can see swollen leaf buds, begin spring pruning to remove dead wood.
Check for Green
If you don't want to wait for leaves to sprout or you haven't noticed signs of the rose's life in spring, then check whether or not any parts of the rose canes are still alive. First, pull away any winter protection from the base of the plant. Starting midway down a cane, use a sterilized pruning knife to scrape away the outer layer of bark. If the cane is alive, you'll see a green layer under the bark. If the cane is dead, the inner layer will be brown. Keep using the knife periodically down the cane until you either find a green layer or reach the base of the plant. If you don't find green on any canes, then the rose bush is most likely dead.
Inspect Roots
Even if their upper canes are dead, some roses can come back from the roots. This fact depends on whether or not the roses are grafted. Some rose bush tops are grafted onto more vigorous root stocks to provide increased hardiness. Grafted roses include many hybrid roses, such as the cultivar 'Hotel California' (Rosa 'Hotel California,' USDA zones 5 through 9). Other roses are grown on their own roots. They include the Knock Out rose 'Radrazz' (Rosa 'Radrazz', USDA zones 4 through 9).
A grafted rose is considered dead if all the stems above the graft union are dead. The rose may still sprout from the roots, but it will not be the same kind of rose bush it was previously. Instead, it will be whatever rose species was used as its root stock, and it may not even bloom. Roses growing on their own roots, however, can still come back from the roots. Before removing those plants, wait until late spring or early summer to see if they sprout new shoots.
Roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11, depending on the variety, and many survive winter even if part of them dies back. Several methods can be used to check whether or not a rose bush is still alive in spring. You can also use these methods if you wonder whether or not a rose was killed by a disease or other problem.
Wait for Leaves
The simplest way to determine whether a rose is alive or dead is to wait to see if it sprouts leaves. Watch the plant carefully to see if leaf buds form along the stems. If they do, then you'll know what parts of the plant are dead and what parts are alive. Once you can see swollen leaf buds, begin spring pruning to remove dead wood.
Check for Green
If you don't want to wait for leaves to sprout or you haven't noticed signs of the rose's life in spring, then check whether or not any parts of the rose canes are still alive. First, pull away any winter protection from the base of the plant. Starting midway down a cane, use a sterilized pruning knife to scrape away the outer layer of bark. If the cane is alive, you'll see a green layer under the bark. If the cane is dead, the inner layer will be brown. Keep using the knife periodically down the cane until you either find a green layer or reach the base of the plant. If you don't find green on any canes, then the rose bush is most likely dead.
Inspect Roots
Even if their upper canes are dead, some roses can come back from the roots. This fact depends on whether or not the roses are grafted. Some rose bush tops are grafted onto more vigorous root stocks to provide increased hardiness. Grafted roses include many hybrid roses, such as the cultivar 'Hotel California' (Rosa 'Hotel California,' USDA zones 5 through 9). Other roses are grown on their own roots. They include the Knock Out rose 'Radrazz' (Rosa 'Radrazz', USDA zones 4 through 9).
A grafted rose is considered dead if all the stems above the graft union are dead. The rose may still sprout from the roots, but it will not be the same kind of rose bush it was previously. Instead, it will be whatever rose species was used as its root stock, and it may not even bloom. Roses growing on their own roots, however, can still come back from the roots. Before removing those plants, wait until late spring or early summer to see if they sprout new shoots.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Zebra grass (Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’) is native to Japan and one of the Miscanthus maiden grass cultivars, all of which are used as ornamental grasses. Zebra grass plants die back in winter but are perennial and re-sprout in spring. The grasses provide four seasons of interest with young spring variegated striped foliage, summer copper colored inflorescence, fall golden leaves and winter texture and form. Zebra ornamental grass can get up to 6 feet high and produces a spectacular screen or specimen plant.
Characteristics of Zebra Grass Plants
There are few showier plants for the garden. Zebra ornamental plants have long arching leaves with appealing stripes across the width, like dappled foliage in the sun. The plant is perennial but the foliage dies off in cold weather, leaving an architecturally interesting skeleton. It produces brand new deep green leaves in spring that begin to show more and more golden striping as the leaf matures. The plants are hardy to USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 9. Choose a sunny to partially sunny location when growing zebra grass. Its clumping habit makes it perfect when planted in groups as a hedge or alone in a container.
Site Conditions for Growing Zebra Grass
Hot sunny summers help the plant form copper colored, feathery inflorescences in September. The plant then produces fluffy seeds, which provide airy distraction to the late fall foliage. This grass produces best in moist soils or even boggy riparian edges but established grasses can tolerate short periods of drought. USDA zones 5 to 9 are ideal for zebra grass planting. Work in compost or leaf litter to a depth of at least 6 inches prior to installing the plant. Space the plants 36 to 48 inches apart and install in spring when the plant is mostly dormant. In the cooler zones, choose a place on the western side of the house in a sheltered area or where cold doesn’t pocket.
How to Care for Zebra Grass
Zebra grass plants are resistant to most pests and diseases. They may get some foliar rusts or small leaf damage from chewing insects, but for the most part the plant is quite strong and hardy. Provide a full sun environment and plenty of water for best growth. The plants work well in containers but will need more water than those in the garden bed. Fertilize in spring with a good organic plant food. Cut back the inflorescences in either fall or spring. If you like the look of the dry feathery flowers, leave them until spring. If not, cut them back to within a few inches of the crown of the plant in fall. Remove any damaged foliage as it occurs.
If the plant is in too much shade, the leaf blades can get floppy, but you can provide a stake or even a tomato cage to help prop them upright.
Characteristics of Zebra Grass Plants
There are few showier plants for the garden. Zebra ornamental plants have long arching leaves with appealing stripes across the width, like dappled foliage in the sun. The plant is perennial but the foliage dies off in cold weather, leaving an architecturally interesting skeleton. It produces brand new deep green leaves in spring that begin to show more and more golden striping as the leaf matures. The plants are hardy to USDA plant hardiness zones 4 to 9. Choose a sunny to partially sunny location when growing zebra grass. Its clumping habit makes it perfect when planted in groups as a hedge or alone in a container.
Site Conditions for Growing Zebra Grass
Hot sunny summers help the plant form copper colored, feathery inflorescences in September. The plant then produces fluffy seeds, which provide airy distraction to the late fall foliage. This grass produces best in moist soils or even boggy riparian edges but established grasses can tolerate short periods of drought. USDA zones 5 to 9 are ideal for zebra grass planting. Work in compost or leaf litter to a depth of at least 6 inches prior to installing the plant. Space the plants 36 to 48 inches apart and install in spring when the plant is mostly dormant. In the cooler zones, choose a place on the western side of the house in a sheltered area or where cold doesn’t pocket.
How to Care for Zebra Grass
Zebra grass plants are resistant to most pests and diseases. They may get some foliar rusts or small leaf damage from chewing insects, but for the most part the plant is quite strong and hardy. Provide a full sun environment and plenty of water for best growth. The plants work well in containers but will need more water than those in the garden bed. Fertilize in spring with a good organic plant food. Cut back the inflorescences in either fall or spring. If you like the look of the dry feathery flowers, leave them until spring. If not, cut them back to within a few inches of the crown of the plant in fall. Remove any damaged foliage as it occurs.
If the plant is in too much shade, the leaf blades can get floppy, but you can provide a stake or even a tomato cage to help prop them upright.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Japanese forest grass plant is an elegant member of the Hakonechloa family. These ornamental plants are slow growing and require little extra care once established. The plants are semi-evergreen (depending on where you live, and may die back over winter) and show best in a partially shaded location. There are several different colors of Japanese forest grass plants. Choose a color that enlivens the surrounding landscape when you are growing forest grass.
Japanese Forest Grass Plant
Japanese forest grass is an attractive, graceful plant that grows slowly and is not invasive. The grass gets 18 to 24 inches tall and has an arching habit with long flat, foliar blades. These arching blades sweep from the base and gracefully re-touch the earth. Japanese forest grass comes in several hues and may be solid or striped. Most varieties are variegated and have stripes. The variegation is white or yellow. Golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) is one of the more popular types and is a completely sunny, bright yellow variety. The golden Japanese forest grass is best planted in full shade. Sunlight will fade the yellow leaf blades to a white. The leaves get a pink tinge to the edges as fall arrives, increasing the appeal of this easy to grow plant. The following cultivars of golden Japanese forest grass are most commonly grown in the garden:
All Gold’ is a sunny golden Japanese forest grass that brightens up dark areas of the garden.
‘Aureola’ has green and yellow blades.
‘Albo Striata’ is striped with white.
Growing Forest Grass
Japanese forest grass plant is suitable for USDA zones 5 to 9. It can survive in zone 4 with heavy protection and mulching. The grass grows from stolens and rhizomes, which will cause it to slowly spread over time. The plant thrives in moist soils in low light situations. The blades become slightly narrower at the ends and the tips may become dry or brown when exposed to bright light. For best results, plant it in moderate to full shade in a well-drained area with nutrient rich soil.
Caring for Japanese Forest Grasses
Caring for Japanese forest grasses is not a very time consuming chore. Once planted, Japanese forest grass is an easy to care for ornamental. The grass should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture. Hakonechloa doesn’t need supplemental fertilizing in good soils but if you do fertilize, wait until after the first blush of growth in spring. When sun hits the blades, they tend to brown. For those planted in sunnier areas, cut off the dead ends as needed to improve the appearance of the plant. In winter, cut back spent blades to the crown.
Older plants can be dug up and cut in half for quick propagation. Once the grass matures, it is easy to divide and propagate a new Japanese forest grass plant. Divide in spring or fall for the best plant starts.
Japanese Forest Grass Plant
Japanese forest grass is an attractive, graceful plant that grows slowly and is not invasive. The grass gets 18 to 24 inches tall and has an arching habit with long flat, foliar blades. These arching blades sweep from the base and gracefully re-touch the earth. Japanese forest grass comes in several hues and may be solid or striped. Most varieties are variegated and have stripes. The variegation is white or yellow. Golden Japanese forest grass (Hakonechloa macra) is one of the more popular types and is a completely sunny, bright yellow variety. The golden Japanese forest grass is best planted in full shade. Sunlight will fade the yellow leaf blades to a white. The leaves get a pink tinge to the edges as fall arrives, increasing the appeal of this easy to grow plant. The following cultivars of golden Japanese forest grass are most commonly grown in the garden:
All Gold’ is a sunny golden Japanese forest grass that brightens up dark areas of the garden.
‘Aureola’ has green and yellow blades.
‘Albo Striata’ is striped with white.
Growing Forest Grass
Japanese forest grass plant is suitable for USDA zones 5 to 9. It can survive in zone 4 with heavy protection and mulching. The grass grows from stolens and rhizomes, which will cause it to slowly spread over time. The plant thrives in moist soils in low light situations. The blades become slightly narrower at the ends and the tips may become dry or brown when exposed to bright light. For best results, plant it in moderate to full shade in a well-drained area with nutrient rich soil.
Caring for Japanese Forest Grasses
Caring for Japanese forest grasses is not a very time consuming chore. Once planted, Japanese forest grass is an easy to care for ornamental. The grass should be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. Spread an organic mulch around the base of the plant to help conserve moisture. Hakonechloa doesn’t need supplemental fertilizing in good soils but if you do fertilize, wait until after the first blush of growth in spring. When sun hits the blades, they tend to brown. For those planted in sunnier areas, cut off the dead ends as needed to improve the appearance of the plant. In winter, cut back spent blades to the crown.
Older plants can be dug up and cut in half for quick propagation. Once the grass matures, it is easy to divide and propagate a new Japanese forest grass plant. Divide in spring or fall for the best plant starts.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Fountain grasses are a reliable and pretty addition to the home landscape, adding drama and height, but their nature is to die back to the ground, which causes confusion for many gardeners. When do you prune fountain grass? In the fall, winter or in the spring? And what steps are involved in cutting back fountain grass? Continue reading to learn more about fountain grass pruning.
When to Cut Back Fountain Grass
The best time when to trim fountain grass back is in the late winter or early spring. The exact timing is not as important as just making sure that you prune fountain grass back before it starts actively growing. You want to avoid doing fountain grass pruning in the fall, as the plant has not yet died back all the way. If you try to cut back fountain grass in the fall, you may cause it to go into a growth spurt, which will make it more vulnerable to the coming cold weather and will reduce its chances of surviving the winter.
Steps for Cutting Back Fountain Grass
The first step when you trim fountain grass back is to tie up the dead stems. This is just to make the chore of cutting back fountain grass a little easier because you won’t have to clean up all the fallen stems. Next step in fountain grass pruning is to use a cutting tool, such as pruning shears or hedge clippers, to cut back the stem bundle. Prune fountain grass about 4 to 6 inches above the ground. The remaining stems will be quickly hidden under the new growth.
That’s all there is to it. The steps to trim fountain grass are easy and quick and taking the time to cut back fountain grass will result in a nicer looking “fountain” in the summer.
When to Cut Back Fountain Grass
The best time when to trim fountain grass back is in the late winter or early spring. The exact timing is not as important as just making sure that you prune fountain grass back before it starts actively growing. You want to avoid doing fountain grass pruning in the fall, as the plant has not yet died back all the way. If you try to cut back fountain grass in the fall, you may cause it to go into a growth spurt, which will make it more vulnerable to the coming cold weather and will reduce its chances of surviving the winter.
Steps for Cutting Back Fountain Grass
The first step when you trim fountain grass back is to tie up the dead stems. This is just to make the chore of cutting back fountain grass a little easier because you won’t have to clean up all the fallen stems. Next step in fountain grass pruning is to use a cutting tool, such as pruning shears or hedge clippers, to cut back the stem bundle. Prune fountain grass about 4 to 6 inches above the ground. The remaining stems will be quickly hidden under the new growth.
That’s all there is to it. The steps to trim fountain grass are easy and quick and taking the time to cut back fountain grass will result in a nicer looking “fountain” in the summer.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The asparagus fern plant (Asparagus aethiopicus syn. Asparagus densiflorus) is normally found in a hanging basket, decorating the deck or patio in summer and helping to clean indoor air in winter. The asparagus fern plant is not really a fern at all, but a member of the Liliaceae family. When growing asparagus ferns outside, place them in a part sun to shady location for best foliage growth. While the asparagus fern plant may sometimes flower, the tiny white flowers are small and not necessary for the beauty of growing asparagus fern.
Information on Asparagus Fern Care
Growing asparagus fern is easy. The frilly, feathery asparagus fern plant appears soft and fuzzy, but when taking care of asparagus ferns you may be surprised to find they have thorny spurs. This, however, is no reason not to grow asparagus ferns, simply wear gloves during asparagus fern care. Asparagus fern can provide small flowers and berries when it is happy in its location. Berries can be planted to propagate the asparagus fern plant. Medium green, cascading foliage that will quickly fill a container can be expected when growing asparagus fern. Growing asparagus fern indoors takes a little more effort. Humidity is necessary and indoor areas are often dry because of winter heat. Mist the plant daily and provide a nearby pebble tray to keep the tiny leaves from turning brown and dropping. The fern may dry out to the point it appears dead; however, outdoor springtime temperatures generally revive them. Keep the plant well watered in all situations and repot every few years.
Care of asparagus ferns indoors involves misting the arching stems to provide humidity to the plant. When you grow asparagus ferns outside in summer, asparagus fern care involves watering, fertilizing to encourage growth and occasionally pruning out dead stems. Asparagus ferns prefer to be pot bound, so yearly division is not needed or desirable. Combine this reliable specimen with summer blooms and foliage plants for an attractive container. A spiky, shade loving plant does well at the center of the pot, surrounded by the cascading branches of the asparagus fern.
Information on Asparagus Fern Care
Growing asparagus fern is easy. The frilly, feathery asparagus fern plant appears soft and fuzzy, but when taking care of asparagus ferns you may be surprised to find they have thorny spurs. This, however, is no reason not to grow asparagus ferns, simply wear gloves during asparagus fern care. Asparagus fern can provide small flowers and berries when it is happy in its location. Berries can be planted to propagate the asparagus fern plant. Medium green, cascading foliage that will quickly fill a container can be expected when growing asparagus fern. Growing asparagus fern indoors takes a little more effort. Humidity is necessary and indoor areas are often dry because of winter heat. Mist the plant daily and provide a nearby pebble tray to keep the tiny leaves from turning brown and dropping. The fern may dry out to the point it appears dead; however, outdoor springtime temperatures generally revive them. Keep the plant well watered in all situations and repot every few years.
Care of asparagus ferns indoors involves misting the arching stems to provide humidity to the plant. When you grow asparagus ferns outside in summer, asparagus fern care involves watering, fertilizing to encourage growth and occasionally pruning out dead stems. Asparagus ferns prefer to be pot bound, so yearly division is not needed or desirable. Combine this reliable specimen with summer blooms and foliage plants for an attractive container. A spiky, shade loving plant does well at the center of the pot, surrounded by the cascading branches of the asparagus fern.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Artemisia is in the Aster family and mostly belongs to the dry regions of the Northern Hemisphere. It is a plant that is not used to the cold, freezing temperatures of the colder zones in the area and may need special care to withstand a winter. Winter care for Artemisia is fairly minimal, but there are few tips and tricks to remember so the plant has the best chance of survival over the cold season. This article will help with information on caring for Artemisia over winter.
Is Winter Care for Artemisia Necessary?
Most Artemisia plants are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 10 and occasionally down to 4 with protection. These tough little plants are primarily herbaceous and many have medicinal and culinary properties. Most Artemisia in winter do quite well, shedding some leaves but, otherwise, the root zone stays safely underground. Plants that are growing in extremely northern climates, however, can have severe issues and the roots can be killed by a deep frost, so some steps need to be taken to protect the plant.
There are ways of winterizing Artemisia in the ground or in containers. Which method you choose will depend upon where you live and how severe your winter conditions will get. One of the first questions to ask yourself is, “what is my zone?” Before you can decide how much effort you need to put into saving your plant, the region in which you live has to be vetted. Since most Artemisia can live in USDA zone 5, just a little bit of Artemisia winter care is required. But if you live in zone 4 or lower, it is probably a good idea to keep the plant in a container, or dig it up in fall and move it indoors.
Store these plants in a frost free area, and water once per month deeply, but no more, as the plant will not be actively growing. When caring for Artemisia over the winter, place the plant where it receives medium light. Begin to increase water as the temperatures warm up. Gradually reintroduce the plant to outdoor conditions and replant in the ground if you wish or continue growing in the container.
In-ground Artemisia Winter Care
Plants in regions that are warm or temperate enough to sustain Artemisia outdoors may still want to do a little winter preparation. The plants will benefit from 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, such as fine bark chips, over the root zone. This will act like a blanket and protect the roots from any sudden or sustained freezes. If a really bad freeze is coming, use a blanket, burlap, bubble wrap or any other cover to make a cocoon over the plant. This is a cheap and effective way of winterizing Artemisia or any sensitive plant. Don’t forget to remove it when the danger has passed. Make sure to water if the winter is dry. Artemisia are very drought tolerant but need occasional moisture. Evergreen Artemisia in winter especially need some moisture, as their leaves will lose moisture from the foliage. If your plant has died back due to winter and does not appear to be coming back, it may not be too late. Some Artemisia in winter naturally lose their leaves and new foliage may be forming. Additionally, if the root ball was not killed, you can probably get the plant to come back. Use a clean, sharp pruner and gently scrape the woody stems and trunk. If you see green under the bark, the plant is still alive and there is a chance.
Remove any plant material that is brown after scraping. This may mean cutting the plant back to the main stem, but there is still a chance all is not lost. Make sure the plant is in a location that is well draining and receives some moisture during spring as it battles its way back. Fertilize with a gentle formula, such as a diluted mixture of fish fertilizer and water. Feed the plant once per month for two months. Gradually, you should see the plant come back to itself if the roots survived and produce new foliage. Caring for Artemisia over the winter is a simple, straightforward process that can save these unique plants.
Is Winter Care for Artemisia Necessary?
Most Artemisia plants are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 5 to 10 and occasionally down to 4 with protection. These tough little plants are primarily herbaceous and many have medicinal and culinary properties. Most Artemisia in winter do quite well, shedding some leaves but, otherwise, the root zone stays safely underground. Plants that are growing in extremely northern climates, however, can have severe issues and the roots can be killed by a deep frost, so some steps need to be taken to protect the plant.
There are ways of winterizing Artemisia in the ground or in containers. Which method you choose will depend upon where you live and how severe your winter conditions will get. One of the first questions to ask yourself is, “what is my zone?” Before you can decide how much effort you need to put into saving your plant, the region in which you live has to be vetted. Since most Artemisia can live in USDA zone 5, just a little bit of Artemisia winter care is required. But if you live in zone 4 or lower, it is probably a good idea to keep the plant in a container, or dig it up in fall and move it indoors.
Store these plants in a frost free area, and water once per month deeply, but no more, as the plant will not be actively growing. When caring for Artemisia over the winter, place the plant where it receives medium light. Begin to increase water as the temperatures warm up. Gradually reintroduce the plant to outdoor conditions and replant in the ground if you wish or continue growing in the container.
In-ground Artemisia Winter Care
Plants in regions that are warm or temperate enough to sustain Artemisia outdoors may still want to do a little winter preparation. The plants will benefit from 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, such as fine bark chips, over the root zone. This will act like a blanket and protect the roots from any sudden or sustained freezes. If a really bad freeze is coming, use a blanket, burlap, bubble wrap or any other cover to make a cocoon over the plant. This is a cheap and effective way of winterizing Artemisia or any sensitive plant. Don’t forget to remove it when the danger has passed. Make sure to water if the winter is dry. Artemisia are very drought tolerant but need occasional moisture. Evergreen Artemisia in winter especially need some moisture, as their leaves will lose moisture from the foliage. If your plant has died back due to winter and does not appear to be coming back, it may not be too late. Some Artemisia in winter naturally lose their leaves and new foliage may be forming. Additionally, if the root ball was not killed, you can probably get the plant to come back. Use a clean, sharp pruner and gently scrape the woody stems and trunk. If you see green under the bark, the plant is still alive and there is a chance.
Remove any plant material that is brown after scraping. This may mean cutting the plant back to the main stem, but there is still a chance all is not lost. Make sure the plant is in a location that is well draining and receives some moisture during spring as it battles its way back. Fertilize with a gentle formula, such as a diluted mixture of fish fertilizer and water. Feed the plant once per month for two months. Gradually, you should see the plant come back to itself if the roots survived and produce new foliage. Caring for Artemisia over the winter is a simple, straightforward process that can save these unique plants.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Sage (Salvia officinalis) is commonly used in poultry dishes and stuffing, especially during the winter holidays. Those living in cold climates may think dried sage is the only option. Perhaps you’ve wondered, “Can sage be grown indoors?” The answer is yes, growing sage indoors during winter months is possible. Proper care of potted sage herbs indoors provides ample leaves of this distinct herb to use fresh in holiday meals.
How to Grow Sage Plant Indoors
Learning how to grow sage plant indoors is not difficult when you understand that lots of light is necessary for successfully growing sage indoors. A sunny window with several hours of sunlight is a good start whenever you are growing sage in containers. Likely though, the sunny window will not give potted sage plants enough light to flourish abundantly. Therefore, supplemental lighting can improve the situation and is often necessary for the care of potted sage herbs.
Sage needs six to eight hours of full sun daily. If your sunny window does not provide this much daily sun, use fluorescent lighting when growing sage indoors. A double fluorescent tube mounted under a counter top, without cabinets underneath, can provide the perfect spot for sage in containers. For every hour of sunlight required, give growing sage indoors two hours under the light. Place the potted herb at least 5 inches from the light, but no further away than 15 inches. If artificial light alone is used when growing sage in containers, give it 14 to 16 hours daily.
Successfully learning how to grow sage plant indoors will include using the right soil too. Sage, like most herbs, does not require a rich and fertile soil, but the potting medium must provide good drainage. Clay pots assist in drainage.
Care of Potted Sage Herbs
As part of your care of potted sage herbs, you will need to keep the plants in a warm area, away from drafts, in temperatures around 70 F. (21 C.). Provide humidity when growing sage indoors, with a nearby pebble tray or humidifier. Including other herbs in containers nearby will also help. Water as needed, letting the top inch of soil dry out between waterings.
When using fresh herbs, use two to three times more than when using herbs that are dried and harvest the herbs often to encourage growth. Now that the question “Can sage be grown indoors” has been answered, give it a try for use in Thanksgiving and Christmas meals.
How to Grow Sage Plant Indoors
Learning how to grow sage plant indoors is not difficult when you understand that lots of light is necessary for successfully growing sage indoors. A sunny window with several hours of sunlight is a good start whenever you are growing sage in containers. Likely though, the sunny window will not give potted sage plants enough light to flourish abundantly. Therefore, supplemental lighting can improve the situation and is often necessary for the care of potted sage herbs.
Sage needs six to eight hours of full sun daily. If your sunny window does not provide this much daily sun, use fluorescent lighting when growing sage indoors. A double fluorescent tube mounted under a counter top, without cabinets underneath, can provide the perfect spot for sage in containers. For every hour of sunlight required, give growing sage indoors two hours under the light. Place the potted herb at least 5 inches from the light, but no further away than 15 inches. If artificial light alone is used when growing sage in containers, give it 14 to 16 hours daily.
Successfully learning how to grow sage plant indoors will include using the right soil too. Sage, like most herbs, does not require a rich and fertile soil, but the potting medium must provide good drainage. Clay pots assist in drainage.
Care of Potted Sage Herbs
As part of your care of potted sage herbs, you will need to keep the plants in a warm area, away from drafts, in temperatures around 70 F. (21 C.). Provide humidity when growing sage indoors, with a nearby pebble tray or humidifier. Including other herbs in containers nearby will also help. Water as needed, letting the top inch of soil dry out between waterings.
When using fresh herbs, use two to three times more than when using herbs that are dried and harvest the herbs often to encourage growth. Now that the question “Can sage be grown indoors” has been answered, give it a try for use in Thanksgiving and Christmas meals.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemongrass is a tender perennial that is grown either as an ornamental grass or for its culinary uses. Given that the plant is native to regions with long, hot growing seasons, you may be wondering, “is lemongrass winter hardy?” Read on to learn more.
Is Lemongrass Winter Hardy?
The answer to this is that it really depends on what region you live in. As mentioned, the plant thrives during long, hot growing seasons and if you happen to live in an area with these conditions and very mild winters, you’ll undoubtedly continue growing lemongrass in winter months. Temperatures must remain consistently over 40 degrees F. (4 C). That said, most of us will have to take some precautions when preparing lemongrass for winter.
Overwintering Lemongrass Plants
Grown for its 2- to 3-foot spiky leaves aromatic with the scent of lemon, lemongrass needs lots of growing space. A single clump will easily increase to a 2 foot wide plant in a single growing season. Growing lemongrass in winter is only possible when those months are extremely mild with little temperature fluctuation. When overwintering lemongrass in cool climates, it may be wise to grow the plant in containers. These can then be easily moved into a sheltered area during winter months.
Otherwise, to protect plants grown directly in the garden, lemongrass winter care should include dividing them prior to the onset of cold temps. Pot them and bring them inside to overwinter until the next season, wherein they can be replanted outside. A delicate plant, lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is easily propagated via stem cuttings or as mentioned, divisions. In fact, lemongrass purchased from the produce section of the local grocery store can often be rooted. Container plants should be potted in containers with adequate drainage holes and filled with a good quality prepared soil mix. When growing outside, place in an area of full sun and water as needed but take care not to over water, which may lead to root rot. Fertilize lemongrass every two weeks with an all-purpose liquid food. Prior to the first frost, move the plants indoors to an area of bright light for lemongrass winter care. Continue to water as needed, but reduce fertilizer during these cool months until it’s time to take the plants outdoors again in the spring.
Harvest as much of the plant as possible for later use if you don’t have a suitable indoor space for growing lemongrass over winter. The leaves can be cut and used fresh or dried for future use while the most desirable tender white interior should be used fresh when its flavor is at its peak. The tough outer parts can be used to infuse lemon flavor to soups or teas, or can be dried to add aromatic scents to potpourri. Fresh lemongrass can be kept in the refrigerator for 10 to 14 days wrapped in a damp paper towel or you may decide to freeze it. To freeze lemongrass, wash it, trim it and chop it up. Then it can be frozen right away in a resealable plastic bag, or freeze it first with a small amount of water in ice cube trays and then transfer to resealable plastic bags. Frozen lemongrass will keep for at least four to six months and allow you a longer window in which to use this delightful, delicious lemony addition.
Is Lemongrass Winter Hardy?
The answer to this is that it really depends on what region you live in. As mentioned, the plant thrives during long, hot growing seasons and if you happen to live in an area with these conditions and very mild winters, you’ll undoubtedly continue growing lemongrass in winter months. Temperatures must remain consistently over 40 degrees F. (4 C). That said, most of us will have to take some precautions when preparing lemongrass for winter.
Overwintering Lemongrass Plants
Grown for its 2- to 3-foot spiky leaves aromatic with the scent of lemon, lemongrass needs lots of growing space. A single clump will easily increase to a 2 foot wide plant in a single growing season. Growing lemongrass in winter is only possible when those months are extremely mild with little temperature fluctuation. When overwintering lemongrass in cool climates, it may be wise to grow the plant in containers. These can then be easily moved into a sheltered area during winter months.
Otherwise, to protect plants grown directly in the garden, lemongrass winter care should include dividing them prior to the onset of cold temps. Pot them and bring them inside to overwinter until the next season, wherein they can be replanted outside. A delicate plant, lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is easily propagated via stem cuttings or as mentioned, divisions. In fact, lemongrass purchased from the produce section of the local grocery store can often be rooted. Container plants should be potted in containers with adequate drainage holes and filled with a good quality prepared soil mix. When growing outside, place in an area of full sun and water as needed but take care not to over water, which may lead to root rot. Fertilize lemongrass every two weeks with an all-purpose liquid food. Prior to the first frost, move the plants indoors to an area of bright light for lemongrass winter care. Continue to water as needed, but reduce fertilizer during these cool months until it’s time to take the plants outdoors again in the spring.
Harvest as much of the plant as possible for later use if you don’t have a suitable indoor space for growing lemongrass over winter. The leaves can be cut and used fresh or dried for future use while the most desirable tender white interior should be used fresh when its flavor is at its peak. The tough outer parts can be used to infuse lemon flavor to soups or teas, or can be dried to add aromatic scents to potpourri. Fresh lemongrass can be kept in the refrigerator for 10 to 14 days wrapped in a damp paper towel or you may decide to freeze it. To freeze lemongrass, wash it, trim it and chop it up. Then it can be frozen right away in a resealable plastic bag, or freeze it first with a small amount of water in ice cube trays and then transfer to resealable plastic bags. Frozen lemongrass will keep for at least four to six months and allow you a longer window in which to use this delightful, delicious lemony addition.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
You know you are in heaven when you have fresh chives at hand to adorn meats, cheeses, season breads and soups, or simply add their fresh lightly oniony flavor to a salad. Chives are an essential part of any culinary garden and dry wonderfully for winter use. If you are planning a kitchen garden and wondering what to grow near chives, wonder no more. There are a host of perfect chive plant companions for texture, color, and flavor.
What to Grow Near Chives
Companion planting isn’t anything new. Our ancestors knew what plants seemed to benefit from being close to each other, whether as a repellent, disease indicator, support, soil enhancer or any other reason.
Chives have a sulfur-based oil that is the heart of the flavors we enjoy but can also be a deterrent to many pests. They also have large tufted purple flower heads that are a bee magnet and draw pollinators to your garden. In almost every case, it doesn’t matter what you plant them near, as companion planting with chives has a host of positive results. Many gardeners swear by using chives near roses to help repel black spot and enhance growth. Chives are also said to ward off Japanese beetles, a common pest of roses and other ornamentals. If you plant chive near apple trees, it seems to have the ability to prevent apple scab and deter borers. Grapes are excellent companion plants for chives, as the Allium seems to help prevent insect pests and increase pollinating visitors, thus enhancing yields.
If you do add chives to the vegetable garden, you will see a number of benefits. The oils in the plant repel numerous insects, and the pollinators it attracts helps increase fruit and vegetable yields. For instance, chives can increase the length and flavor of carrots when in proximity, and repel aphids from celery, lettuce and peas. They also repel cucumber beetles, which can make a mess of your Cucurbit crop. Tomatoes benefit from their odorous oils and attractive flowers. Herbs seem natural companion plants for chives and, indeed, they are. Place chives in your herb pots for quick, delicious additions to any dish.
Companion Planting with Chives
Chives are such attractive plants it is a shame to keep them in the vegetable garden alone. While it may seem that chive plant companions derive much from simply being near the plants, there are other ways chives can be helpful in the garden and home. Dried chive flowers are wonderful in an everlasting bouquet and keep much of their purple color. Mix chives and water in a blender with a little dish soap for a repelling pest spray on most plants and to deter powdery mildew on vegetables. Ornamentally, the chive plant has lively, slender green foliage and those wonderful fluffy flowers, making them perfect to enhance a perennial garden or herbal container. As an added bonus, chives can be cut and come again several times in one season. Dry them or cut them into small pieces and freeze them so you can enjoy them year round.
What to Grow Near Chives
Companion planting isn’t anything new. Our ancestors knew what plants seemed to benefit from being close to each other, whether as a repellent, disease indicator, support, soil enhancer or any other reason.
Chives have a sulfur-based oil that is the heart of the flavors we enjoy but can also be a deterrent to many pests. They also have large tufted purple flower heads that are a bee magnet and draw pollinators to your garden. In almost every case, it doesn’t matter what you plant them near, as companion planting with chives has a host of positive results. Many gardeners swear by using chives near roses to help repel black spot and enhance growth. Chives are also said to ward off Japanese beetles, a common pest of roses and other ornamentals. If you plant chive near apple trees, it seems to have the ability to prevent apple scab and deter borers. Grapes are excellent companion plants for chives, as the Allium seems to help prevent insect pests and increase pollinating visitors, thus enhancing yields.
If you do add chives to the vegetable garden, you will see a number of benefits. The oils in the plant repel numerous insects, and the pollinators it attracts helps increase fruit and vegetable yields. For instance, chives can increase the length and flavor of carrots when in proximity, and repel aphids from celery, lettuce and peas. They also repel cucumber beetles, which can make a mess of your Cucurbit crop. Tomatoes benefit from their odorous oils and attractive flowers. Herbs seem natural companion plants for chives and, indeed, they are. Place chives in your herb pots for quick, delicious additions to any dish.
Companion Planting with Chives
Chives are such attractive plants it is a shame to keep them in the vegetable garden alone. While it may seem that chive plant companions derive much from simply being near the plants, there are other ways chives can be helpful in the garden and home. Dried chive flowers are wonderful in an everlasting bouquet and keep much of their purple color. Mix chives and water in a blender with a little dish soap for a repelling pest spray on most plants and to deter powdery mildew on vegetables. Ornamentally, the chive plant has lively, slender green foliage and those wonderful fluffy flowers, making them perfect to enhance a perennial garden or herbal container. As an added bonus, chives can be cut and come again several times in one season. Dry them or cut them into small pieces and freeze them so you can enjoy them year round.
0
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing tarragon indoors allows you easy access to the herb and gives the plant protection from cold temperatures. Tarragon is only half hardy and doesn’t perform well when exposed to winter chill. There are a few tips to learning how to grow tarragon indoors. Herbs generally like dry soil, bright light and temperatures near 70 F. (21 C.). Growing tarragon inside is easy if you just follow a few simple requirements.
How to Grow Tarragon Indoors
Tarragon is an attractive herb with slender, slightly twisted leaves. The plant is a perennial and will reward you will many seasons of flavor if you care for it well. Tarragon grows as a many stemmed bush that can get semi-woody as it ages. While most herbs thrive in full sun, tarragon seems to perform best in a lower or diffused light situation. Allow a location of at least 24 inches height for growing tarragon inside. If your kitchen has a window facing anywhere but south, you can successfully grow tarragon. The leaves are the useful part of the plant and are best used fresh. They add a light anise flavor to foods and are good paired with fish or chicken. Tarragon leaves also impart their flavor to vinegar and lends its flavor to sauces, dressings and marinades. Planting tarragon indoors in the kitchen herb garden is an excellent way to take advantage of this fresh herb.
Herbs need good drainage so the choice of pot is important. A clay pot that is not glazed will allow excess moisture to evaporate. The pot also needs several drainage holes and should be at least 12 to 16 inches deep. Use three parts of a good potting soil with the addition of one part sand to give the mixture good tilth and enhance draining. Add other herbs with similar requirements when planting tarragon indoors. This will give you many flavors and textures to chose from when cooking. Give tarragon growing indoors at least six to eight hours of light. Fertilize the herb with a dilution of fish fertilizer every two weeks. Don’t overwater when growing tarragon inside. Indoor herbs should be kept on the dry side. Provide a thorough watering and then allow the plant to dry out between periods of irrigation. Provide humidity by spritzing the plant with water every couple of days.
Moving Tarragon Outside
Tarragon can get almost 2 feet in height and may require pruning or division. If you want to just move the plant outside and get a smaller one for indoors, you need to acclimate it first by moving the plant outdoors for gradually longer periods over two weeks. You can also cut the root ball of the tarragon in half and replant both halves in different locations for more plants. If the tarragon growing indoors is well cared for, it will need pruning. Prune back to a growth node or remove entire stems back to the primary stem.
How to Grow Tarragon Indoors
Tarragon is an attractive herb with slender, slightly twisted leaves. The plant is a perennial and will reward you will many seasons of flavor if you care for it well. Tarragon grows as a many stemmed bush that can get semi-woody as it ages. While most herbs thrive in full sun, tarragon seems to perform best in a lower or diffused light situation. Allow a location of at least 24 inches height for growing tarragon inside. If your kitchen has a window facing anywhere but south, you can successfully grow tarragon. The leaves are the useful part of the plant and are best used fresh. They add a light anise flavor to foods and are good paired with fish or chicken. Tarragon leaves also impart their flavor to vinegar and lends its flavor to sauces, dressings and marinades. Planting tarragon indoors in the kitchen herb garden is an excellent way to take advantage of this fresh herb.
Herbs need good drainage so the choice of pot is important. A clay pot that is not glazed will allow excess moisture to evaporate. The pot also needs several drainage holes and should be at least 12 to 16 inches deep. Use three parts of a good potting soil with the addition of one part sand to give the mixture good tilth and enhance draining. Add other herbs with similar requirements when planting tarragon indoors. This will give you many flavors and textures to chose from when cooking. Give tarragon growing indoors at least six to eight hours of light. Fertilize the herb with a dilution of fish fertilizer every two weeks. Don’t overwater when growing tarragon inside. Indoor herbs should be kept on the dry side. Provide a thorough watering and then allow the plant to dry out between periods of irrigation. Provide humidity by spritzing the plant with water every couple of days.
Moving Tarragon Outside
Tarragon can get almost 2 feet in height and may require pruning or division. If you want to just move the plant outside and get a smaller one for indoors, you need to acclimate it first by moving the plant outdoors for gradually longer periods over two weeks. You can also cut the root ball of the tarragon in half and replant both halves in different locations for more plants. If the tarragon growing indoors is well cared for, it will need pruning. Prune back to a growth node or remove entire stems back to the primary stem.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing savory (Satureja) in the home herb garden isn’t as common as growing other kinds of herbs, which is a shame as both fresh winter savory and summer savory are excellent additions to the kitchen. Planting savory is easy and rewarding. Let’s look at how to grow savory in your garden.
Two Types of Savory
The first thing to understand before you start planting savory in your garden is that there are two kinds of savory. There is winter savory (Satureja montana), which is a perennial and has a more intense flavor. Then there is summer savory (Satureja hortensis), which is an annual and has a more subtle flavor. Both winter savory and summer savory are tasty, but if you are new to cooking with savory, it is generally recommended that you start growing the summer savory first until you feel comfortable with your cooking savory.
Tips for Growing Summer Savory
Summer savory is an annual and must be planted every year. Plant seeds outdoors right after the last frost has past. Plant seeds 3 to 5 inches apart and about an 1/8 of an inch down in the soil.. Allow plants to grow to a height of 6 inches before you start to harvest leaves for cooking. While savory plant is growing and when you are using fresh savory for cooking, use only the tender growth on the plant. At the end of the season, harvest the entire plant, both woody and tender growth, and dry the leavesher of the plant for so that you can use the herb over the winter as well.
Tips for Growing Winter Savory
Winter savory is the perennial version of the savory herb. Seeds of the winter savory plant can be planted indoors or outdoors. If planting outdoors, plant the seeds right after the last frost If planting indoors, start the savory seeds two to six weeks before the last frost. Plant seeds or transplanted seedlings into your garden 1 to 2 feet apart and an 1/8 inch down in the soil. The plants will get large. Use the tender leaves and stems for fresh herb cooking and harvest the leaves from woody stems for drying and use later.
Other Tips for Growing Savory
Both kinds of savories are from the mint family but are not invasive like many other mint herbs.
Two Types of Savory
The first thing to understand before you start planting savory in your garden is that there are two kinds of savory. There is winter savory (Satureja montana), which is a perennial and has a more intense flavor. Then there is summer savory (Satureja hortensis), which is an annual and has a more subtle flavor. Both winter savory and summer savory are tasty, but if you are new to cooking with savory, it is generally recommended that you start growing the summer savory first until you feel comfortable with your cooking savory.
Tips for Growing Summer Savory
Summer savory is an annual and must be planted every year. Plant seeds outdoors right after the last frost has past. Plant seeds 3 to 5 inches apart and about an 1/8 of an inch down in the soil.. Allow plants to grow to a height of 6 inches before you start to harvest leaves for cooking. While savory plant is growing and when you are using fresh savory for cooking, use only the tender growth on the plant. At the end of the season, harvest the entire plant, both woody and tender growth, and dry the leavesher of the plant for so that you can use the herb over the winter as well.
Tips for Growing Winter Savory
Winter savory is the perennial version of the savory herb. Seeds of the winter savory plant can be planted indoors or outdoors. If planting outdoors, plant the seeds right after the last frost If planting indoors, start the savory seeds two to six weeks before the last frost. Plant seeds or transplanted seedlings into your garden 1 to 2 feet apart and an 1/8 inch down in the soil. The plants will get large. Use the tender leaves and stems for fresh herb cooking and harvest the leaves from woody stems for drying and use later.
Other Tips for Growing Savory
Both kinds of savories are from the mint family but are not invasive like many other mint herbs.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
While you may have parsley, sage, rosemaryand thymein your herb garden, you may be lacking in savory. There are two types of savory, summer and winter but here we’re going to focus on how to grow winter savory herbs. Read on to find out about the care and growing of winter savory and other winter savory plant info.
Winter Savory Plant Info
Winter savory (Satureja montana) is an herbaceous, perennial hardy to USDA zone 6 while summer savory is grown as an annual. The ancient Roman writer, Pliny, named the genus ‘Satureja,’ which is derived from the word “satyr,” a half goat and half man mythological being who reveled in all savory delights. It was these ancient Romans that introduced the herb to England around the time of Caesar’s reign.
Both winter and summer savory have a strong peppery flavor, although winter savory has a more pungent flavor than summer. Both herbs can be used in a variety of foods and help to enliven flavor without the use of additional salt and pepper. For this reason, winter savory herbs are often paired with beans during cooking since the addition of salt at that time would toughen the beans. Savory is not only used in a variety of culinary preparations, but the dried leaves are often added to potpourri. The fresh or dried leaves can also be used to infuse vinegar, herb butters or steeped for tea.
How to Grow Winter Savory
Winter savory is a hardy semi-evergreen bush with glossy, dark green leaves and woody stems. It is easy to grow and, once established, care of winter savory is nominal. It can be used as a border plant in the herb garden or planted as a companion plant along with beans where it is said that growing winter savory keeps bean weevils away. Winter savory is also planted near roses where it is purported to reduce mildew and aphid infestations. This herb gets from 6-12 inches in height and 8-12 inches across. Like most herbs, it thrives in full sun of at least six hours per day in well-draining soil with a pH of 6.7. Sow seeds in the spring in flats to transplant outdoors once the soil warms; transplant seedlings 10-12 inches apart in the garden.
Winter savory can also be propagated via cuttings. Take cuttings, the tips of new shoots, in late spring and place them in pots of wet sand. When the cuttings root, transplant them to the garden or into another container. Harvest winter savory in the morning when the essential oils are at their most potent. It can then be dried or used fresh. In temperate climates, winter savory will go dormant in the winter and put out new leaves in the spring. Older plants tend to get woody, so keep them pruned out to encourage new growth.
Winter Savory Plant Info
Winter savory (Satureja montana) is an herbaceous, perennial hardy to USDA zone 6 while summer savory is grown as an annual. The ancient Roman writer, Pliny, named the genus ‘Satureja,’ which is derived from the word “satyr,” a half goat and half man mythological being who reveled in all savory delights. It was these ancient Romans that introduced the herb to England around the time of Caesar’s reign.
Both winter and summer savory have a strong peppery flavor, although winter savory has a more pungent flavor than summer. Both herbs can be used in a variety of foods and help to enliven flavor without the use of additional salt and pepper. For this reason, winter savory herbs are often paired with beans during cooking since the addition of salt at that time would toughen the beans. Savory is not only used in a variety of culinary preparations, but the dried leaves are often added to potpourri. The fresh or dried leaves can also be used to infuse vinegar, herb butters or steeped for tea.
How to Grow Winter Savory
Winter savory is a hardy semi-evergreen bush with glossy, dark green leaves and woody stems. It is easy to grow and, once established, care of winter savory is nominal. It can be used as a border plant in the herb garden or planted as a companion plant along with beans where it is said that growing winter savory keeps bean weevils away. Winter savory is also planted near roses where it is purported to reduce mildew and aphid infestations. This herb gets from 6-12 inches in height and 8-12 inches across. Like most herbs, it thrives in full sun of at least six hours per day in well-draining soil with a pH of 6.7. Sow seeds in the spring in flats to transplant outdoors once the soil warms; transplant seedlings 10-12 inches apart in the garden.
Winter savory can also be propagated via cuttings. Take cuttings, the tips of new shoots, in late spring and place them in pots of wet sand. When the cuttings root, transplant them to the garden or into another container. Harvest winter savory in the morning when the essential oils are at their most potent. It can then be dried or used fresh. In temperate climates, winter savory will go dormant in the winter and put out new leaves in the spring. Older plants tend to get woody, so keep them pruned out to encourage new growth.
0
0
