文章
Miss Chen
2018年02月11日
Description: This wildflower is a winter annual about 4-12" tall. The stems are either unbranched, or they branch at the base of each plant; they are pale red, terete, glabrous, and glaucous. Alternate leaves are arranged somewhat densely around the stems; they are about ½-1" long, 2-3 mm. across, and ascending to widely spreading. Individual leaves are pale green, linear in shape, subterete (circular, but slightly flattened in cross-section), and glabrous. The leaf bases slightly clasp the stems; each leaf has a pair of minute auricles (ear-like lobes) at its base.
Each stem terminates in a cyme of flowers up to 6" across. Each cyme has 3-7 horizontal branches that are spaced widely apart; the flowers are densely arranged along the upper sides of these branches (typically 10-40 flowers per branch). The flowers are sessile or nearly sessile (on pedicels less than 1 mm. in length). Each flower spans about ½" across, consisting of 4 pink petals (rarely white), 4 pale green sepals, a cluster of 4 pistils, and 8 stamens. The petals and sepals are linear-lanceolate in shape; the petals are about twice the length of the sepals. The narrowly ovoid pistils are light pink (less often white) during the blooming period; each pistil has a single style. The anthers are initially dark red, but they turn black shortly afterwards. Among the flowers, there are bracts that resemble the leaves, except theyDistribution Map are about one-half the size of the latter. The blooming period occurs during late spring to early summer, lasting about 1 month. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by clusters of 4 spreading follicles; these follicles are about ¼" long, narrowly ovoid in shape, and prominently beaked. Immature follicles are pale green, but at maturity they turn brown. Eventually, each follicle splits open along one side to release numerous seeds. The root system is fibrous. This wildflower spreads by reseeding itself. At favorable sites, it often forms colonies of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, dry conditions, and thin rocky soil. Partial sun is tolerated, although there will be a greater tendency for individual plants to sprawl in the direction of greater light. Seeds typically germinate in the fall, allowing young plants to overwinter in a dormant state. Most growth and development occur during the spring. The leaves wither away during the hot weather of summer as individual plants die down. This plant has a crassula acid metabolism (CAM) that enables it to survive in xeric conditions. Like other sedums (Sedum spp.), Widow's Cross can be cultivated in sunny rock gardens.
Range & Habitat: The native Widow's Cross occurs in southern Illinois, where it is uncommon. Illinois lies along the northern range of this species. Habitats include rocky cliffs, exposed rocky ledges, and rocky glades, particularly in areas where there is exposed flat bedrock. The underlying bedrock in these habitats consists of sandstone, limestone, or chert. Widow's Cross is a highly specialized plant that is found in high quality natural areas.
Faunal Associations: Very little is known about floral-faunal relationships for this species. Generally, the flowers of sedums (Sedum spp.) are cross-pollinated by small bees (Andrena spp., etc.) and probably other insects. Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards to such visitors. In areas where Widow's Cross and other sedums are cultivated (especially nurseries and greenhouses), they may be attacked by Aphis sedi (Sedum Aphid). This aphid was introduced into North America from Eurasia.
Photographic Location: A rocky ledge in southern Illinois.
Comments: Other common names for Widow's Cross (Sedum pulchellum) are Limestone Stonecrop and Rock Stonecrop. Widow's Cross is normally an attractive little plant with pink flowers. It is one of only a few native Sedum spp. that are found in the rocky hills of southern Illinois and the surrounding area. Several species of cultivated sedums from Eurasia occasionally escape and naturalize in open disturbed habitats, but they usually don't persist (with the exception of Sedum acre). Widow's Cross can be distinguished from these other species by its pink 4-petaled flowers, widely spreading branches of its inflorescence, and small linear leaves that are nearly terete. Other sedums often have white or yellow flowers, flowers with 5 petals, inflorescences with ascending branches, or leaves that are more flattened and wide than those of Widow's Cross.
Each stem terminates in a cyme of flowers up to 6" across. Each cyme has 3-7 horizontal branches that are spaced widely apart; the flowers are densely arranged along the upper sides of these branches (typically 10-40 flowers per branch). The flowers are sessile or nearly sessile (on pedicels less than 1 mm. in length). Each flower spans about ½" across, consisting of 4 pink petals (rarely white), 4 pale green sepals, a cluster of 4 pistils, and 8 stamens. The petals and sepals are linear-lanceolate in shape; the petals are about twice the length of the sepals. The narrowly ovoid pistils are light pink (less often white) during the blooming period; each pistil has a single style. The anthers are initially dark red, but they turn black shortly afterwards. Among the flowers, there are bracts that resemble the leaves, except theyDistribution Map are about one-half the size of the latter. The blooming period occurs during late spring to early summer, lasting about 1 month. Afterwards, the flowers are replaced by clusters of 4 spreading follicles; these follicles are about ¼" long, narrowly ovoid in shape, and prominently beaked. Immature follicles are pale green, but at maturity they turn brown. Eventually, each follicle splits open along one side to release numerous seeds. The root system is fibrous. This wildflower spreads by reseeding itself. At favorable sites, it often forms colonies of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, dry conditions, and thin rocky soil. Partial sun is tolerated, although there will be a greater tendency for individual plants to sprawl in the direction of greater light. Seeds typically germinate in the fall, allowing young plants to overwinter in a dormant state. Most growth and development occur during the spring. The leaves wither away during the hot weather of summer as individual plants die down. This plant has a crassula acid metabolism (CAM) that enables it to survive in xeric conditions. Like other sedums (Sedum spp.), Widow's Cross can be cultivated in sunny rock gardens.
Range & Habitat: The native Widow's Cross occurs in southern Illinois, where it is uncommon. Illinois lies along the northern range of this species. Habitats include rocky cliffs, exposed rocky ledges, and rocky glades, particularly in areas where there is exposed flat bedrock. The underlying bedrock in these habitats consists of sandstone, limestone, or chert. Widow's Cross is a highly specialized plant that is found in high quality natural areas.
Faunal Associations: Very little is known about floral-faunal relationships for this species. Generally, the flowers of sedums (Sedum spp.) are cross-pollinated by small bees (Andrena spp., etc.) and probably other insects. Both nectar and pollen are available as floral rewards to such visitors. In areas where Widow's Cross and other sedums are cultivated (especially nurseries and greenhouses), they may be attacked by Aphis sedi (Sedum Aphid). This aphid was introduced into North America from Eurasia.
Photographic Location: A rocky ledge in southern Illinois.
Comments: Other common names for Widow's Cross (Sedum pulchellum) are Limestone Stonecrop and Rock Stonecrop. Widow's Cross is normally an attractive little plant with pink flowers. It is one of only a few native Sedum spp. that are found in the rocky hills of southern Illinois and the surrounding area. Several species of cultivated sedums from Eurasia occasionally escape and naturalize in open disturbed habitats, but they usually don't persist (with the exception of Sedum acre). Widow's Cross can be distinguished from these other species by its pink 4-petaled flowers, widely spreading branches of its inflorescence, and small linear leaves that are nearly terete. Other sedums often have white or yellow flowers, flowers with 5 petals, inflorescences with ascending branches, or leaves that are more flattened and wide than those of Widow's Cross.
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cclecombe
2018年02月08日
Hello! I’ve been really absent due to our house getting very little light with winter and my plant babies were suffering! I’ve had a massive clear out of anything that’s passed the point of saving and rearranged some of my plants so they’re in the best position for their needs. Now Spring is around the corner, I’m ready to update my app and buy some new plants for the emptier areas of the house. What are your favourite low light plants?
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年02月02日
Description: This wildflower is a biennial or short-lived perennial plant that is ½–1' tall when it blooms. The basal leaves persist during most of the year, although they may die down during the winter. They are ¾-2" long, ½-1" across, broadly elliptic to oval-obovate in shape, and either finely serrated or slightly dentate along their margins. The slender petioles of the basal leaves are ½-1" long and light green; they often have cobwebby hairs. The blade surface of the basal leaves is medium green and sparsely covered with mealy hairs. Unbranched flowering stalks develop among the basal leaves. These stalks are light green, terete to slightly channeled, and more or less covered with cobwebby hairs. Alternate leaves are sparsely distributed along each flowering stalk; they are up to 1¼" long and ¼" across. The alternate leaves are medium green, narrowly pinnatifid, and more or less covered with cobwebby hairs, particularly along the lower side of their central veins and along their petioles.
The central stalk terminates in a flat-headed cluster of 3-12 flowerheads. Each daisy-like flowerhead is about ½" across, consisting of 8-14 ray florets surrounding numerous disk florets that are yellow or golden yellow. The petaloid rays of the flowerheads are yellow and narrowly oblong. Around the base of each flowerhead, there are light green floral bracts (phyllaries) that are arranged together in a single series. They are oblong-linear in shape and more or less covered with cobwebby hairs. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late spring, lasting about 3-4 weeks. The flowerheads are mildly fragrant. About a month after the blooming period, the achenes mature, developing tufts of white hairs; they are dispersed by the wind. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Prairie Ragwort often forms clonal colonies from its rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic to dry conditions, and soil containing loam, clay-loam, sand, or gravelly material. Prairie Ragwort tends to favor less fertile soil because of the reduced competition from other plants. The basal leaves are semi-evergreen and they have few problems with disease.
Range & Habitat: The native Prairie Ragwort occurs primarily in the northern half of Illinois and in counties that are located along major rivers. It is occasional to locally common in the northern and western sections of the state, while elsewhere it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include upland prairies, gravel prairies, sand prairies, hill prairies, bluffs overlooking major rivers, openings in either rocky or sandy upland forests, sandy savannas, limestone glades, and roadside embankments. This little plant is usually found in open grassy areas. It blooms during the spring before the warm-season prairie grasses have achieved much growth.
Faunal Associations: Flies and small bees are the most common visitors to the flowers. Among the bee visitors, are little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), cuckoo bees (Nomada spp.), Halictid bees (Augochlorella spp., Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp.), and Andrenid bees (Andrena spp.), including the oligolectic bee Andrena gardineri. Other floral visitors include Syrphid flies, Tachinid flies, thick-headed flies, skippers, and small butterflies. These insects are attracted to the nectar and pollen of the flowers. Polyphagous caterpillars of the moth Orthonama obstipata (The Gem) feed on the foliage of ragworts (Packera spp.); this moth dies out in Illinois during the winter, but it rapidly repopulates the state from the south when warm weather returns. Ragworts are preferred host plants of the seed bug, Neacoryphus bicrucis. The foliage is highly toxic to mammalian herbivores, especially cattle, and to a lesser extent horses and sheep. It contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids that can damage the liver and cause other health problems.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is a perky little plant with bright yellow flowerheads. Among the various ragworts (Packera spp.) in Illinois, Prairie Ragwort is the most drought tolerant. It also has more cobwebby hairs on its flowering stalks and leaves than other ragworts, although these hairs gradually disappear after the blooming period. A scientific synonym of Prairie Ragwort is Senecio plattensis. The 'ragwort' in the common name probably refers to the ragged appearance of alternate leaves on the flowering stalks.
The central stalk terminates in a flat-headed cluster of 3-12 flowerheads. Each daisy-like flowerhead is about ½" across, consisting of 8-14 ray florets surrounding numerous disk florets that are yellow or golden yellow. The petaloid rays of the flowerheads are yellow and narrowly oblong. Around the base of each flowerhead, there are light green floral bracts (phyllaries) that are arranged together in a single series. They are oblong-linear in shape and more or less covered with cobwebby hairs. The blooming period occurs from mid- to late spring, lasting about 3-4 weeks. The flowerheads are mildly fragrant. About a month after the blooming period, the achenes mature, developing tufts of white hairs; they are dispersed by the wind. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Prairie Ragwort often forms clonal colonies from its rhizomes.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun, mesic to dry conditions, and soil containing loam, clay-loam, sand, or gravelly material. Prairie Ragwort tends to favor less fertile soil because of the reduced competition from other plants. The basal leaves are semi-evergreen and they have few problems with disease.
Range & Habitat: The native Prairie Ragwort occurs primarily in the northern half of Illinois and in counties that are located along major rivers. It is occasional to locally common in the northern and western sections of the state, while elsewhere it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include upland prairies, gravel prairies, sand prairies, hill prairies, bluffs overlooking major rivers, openings in either rocky or sandy upland forests, sandy savannas, limestone glades, and roadside embankments. This little plant is usually found in open grassy areas. It blooms during the spring before the warm-season prairie grasses have achieved much growth.
Faunal Associations: Flies and small bees are the most common visitors to the flowers. Among the bee visitors, are little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.), cuckoo bees (Nomada spp.), Halictid bees (Augochlorella spp., Halictus spp., Lasioglossum spp.), and Andrenid bees (Andrena spp.), including the oligolectic bee Andrena gardineri. Other floral visitors include Syrphid flies, Tachinid flies, thick-headed flies, skippers, and small butterflies. These insects are attracted to the nectar and pollen of the flowers. Polyphagous caterpillars of the moth Orthonama obstipata (The Gem) feed on the foliage of ragworts (Packera spp.); this moth dies out in Illinois during the winter, but it rapidly repopulates the state from the south when warm weather returns. Ragworts are preferred host plants of the seed bug, Neacoryphus bicrucis. The foliage is highly toxic to mammalian herbivores, especially cattle, and to a lesser extent horses and sheep. It contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids that can damage the liver and cause other health problems.
Photographic Location: The photographs were taken at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: This is a perky little plant with bright yellow flowerheads. Among the various ragworts (Packera spp.) in Illinois, Prairie Ragwort is the most drought tolerant. It also has more cobwebby hairs on its flowering stalks and leaves than other ragworts, although these hairs gradually disappear after the blooming period. A scientific synonym of Prairie Ragwort is Senecio plattensis. The 'ragwort' in the common name probably refers to the ragged appearance of alternate leaves on the flowering stalks.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月30日
Description: This plant is a biennial or winter annual up to 1½' tall. Often, there are multiple leafy stems at the base of the plant, but the flowering stalks are little branched. Both the stems and flowering stalks are green to reddish green and glabrous. The leaves are up to 1½" long and 1/8" across. They are linear to oblong-linear, glabrous, smooth along the margins, and sessile. The leaves on the taller flowering stalks are alternate, while the leaves on the lower vegetative stems are usually opposite.
Each flowering stalk terminates in a spike-like raceme of flowers up to 8" long. Each flower is up to ½" long, consisting of a calyx with 5 teeth and a two-lipped corolla with a slender nectar spur. The calyx is green to purplish green and may be slightly pubescent. The corolla is light blue to medium blue-violet; its upper lip is divided into 2 rounded lobes, while the lower lip is divided into 3 lobes that are rounded and spreading. The throat of the corolla is white with 2 rounded ridges. The nectar spur can be straight or recurved. There is a short slender pedicel at the base of each flower; at the base of the pedicel, there is a single bract that is short and linear. The blooming period occurs from mid-spring to mid-summer and can last 2-3 months for a colony of plants. Only a few flowers bloom simultaneously on each raceme. Each flower is replaced by a seed capsule that splits open to release the flattened smooth seeds. These seeds can be blown about by the wind. The root system consists of a stout taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun and dry sandy soil where there is little competition from other plants. Rocky soil, mesic conditions, and a little shade are also tolerated.
Range & Habitat: The native Blue Toadflax occurs occasionally in sandy areas in the northern half of Illinois, otherwise it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include dry sand prairies, sand dunes, sandy savannas, thinly wooded bluffs, rocky glades, sandy shoulders of roads, and sandy fields. Disturbed areas are preferred; occasional wildfires are beneficial in maintaining populations of this plant.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are pollinated by bumblebees and other long-tongued bees. Butterflies and skippers may visit the flowers for nectar, but they are less likely to be effective at cross-pollination. The caterpillars of the butterfly Junonia coenia (Buckeye) feed on the foliage of Blue Toadflax and many other members of the Figwort family. A stink bug, Cosmopepla carnifex Fab., has been found on the foliage of this species in sand prairies.
Photographic Location: Along a path in a burnt-over sandy savanna in Kankakee County, Illinois.
Comments: Blue Toadflax has reasonably attractive foliage and flowers. Its appearance is very similar to Nuttallanthus texensis (Southern Blue Toadflax), but the latter has larger flowers (up to 1" long) and bumpy seeds. Blue Toadflax is also related to the introduced Linaria vulgaris (Yellow Toadflax), but the latter has larger yellow flowers (up to 1" long or more). There are other Toadflaxes from Eurasia that occur primarily in sterile waste areas, but they usually have smaller flowers (¼" or less). Blue Toadflax superficially resembles Lobelia kalmii (Kalm's Lobelia), but the flowers of the latter lack nectar spurs and it usually blooms later in the year. Another scientific name for Blue Toadflax is Linaria canadensis.
Each flowering stalk terminates in a spike-like raceme of flowers up to 8" long. Each flower is up to ½" long, consisting of a calyx with 5 teeth and a two-lipped corolla with a slender nectar spur. The calyx is green to purplish green and may be slightly pubescent. The corolla is light blue to medium blue-violet; its upper lip is divided into 2 rounded lobes, while the lower lip is divided into 3 lobes that are rounded and spreading. The throat of the corolla is white with 2 rounded ridges. The nectar spur can be straight or recurved. There is a short slender pedicel at the base of each flower; at the base of the pedicel, there is a single bract that is short and linear. The blooming period occurs from mid-spring to mid-summer and can last 2-3 months for a colony of plants. Only a few flowers bloom simultaneously on each raceme. Each flower is replaced by a seed capsule that splits open to release the flattened smooth seeds. These seeds can be blown about by the wind. The root system consists of a stout taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun and dry sandy soil where there is little competition from other plants. Rocky soil, mesic conditions, and a little shade are also tolerated.
Range & Habitat: The native Blue Toadflax occurs occasionally in sandy areas in the northern half of Illinois, otherwise it is uncommon or absent (see Distribution Map). Habitats include dry sand prairies, sand dunes, sandy savannas, thinly wooded bluffs, rocky glades, sandy shoulders of roads, and sandy fields. Disturbed areas are preferred; occasional wildfires are beneficial in maintaining populations of this plant.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are pollinated by bumblebees and other long-tongued bees. Butterflies and skippers may visit the flowers for nectar, but they are less likely to be effective at cross-pollination. The caterpillars of the butterfly Junonia coenia (Buckeye) feed on the foliage of Blue Toadflax and many other members of the Figwort family. A stink bug, Cosmopepla carnifex Fab., has been found on the foliage of this species in sand prairies.
Photographic Location: Along a path in a burnt-over sandy savanna in Kankakee County, Illinois.
Comments: Blue Toadflax has reasonably attractive foliage and flowers. Its appearance is very similar to Nuttallanthus texensis (Southern Blue Toadflax), but the latter has larger flowers (up to 1" long) and bumpy seeds. Blue Toadflax is also related to the introduced Linaria vulgaris (Yellow Toadflax), but the latter has larger yellow flowers (up to 1" long or more). There are other Toadflaxes from Eurasia that occur primarily in sterile waste areas, but they usually have smaller flowers (¼" or less). Blue Toadflax superficially resembles Lobelia kalmii (Kalm's Lobelia), but the flowers of the latter lack nectar spurs and it usually blooms later in the year. Another scientific name for Blue Toadflax is Linaria canadensis.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月09日
For gardeners new to spring bulbs, daffodils (Narcissus spp.) are a bright gift. Hardy between U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, depending on species, daffodils are less appetizing to winter grazing rodents -- and more reliable perennials -- than many other spring bulbs. They come in a variety of forms and coloration. A well-chosen collection of early-, mid- and late-season varieties will brighten your garden throughout the spring.
Mystery of the Bulb
Daffodil bulbs, like other tunicate bulbs, wear a protective layer of dried skin, or tunic, that helps insulate and keep bulbs moist. The thick layers underneath the tunic anchor this year's plant but also contain the embryo of a succeeding plant, flower and all, and enough nutritious material to keep it healthy until it is time for it to bloom, hopefully next spring. The bulb protects the growing flower from heat, drought and freezing weather.
The bulb never stops growing. It adds layers and processes and stores nutrients year-round. This prepares its hardy little occupant for the vicissitudes of unpredictable spring weather. It might even pop up through the last melting snow if conditions are right.
The Right Conditions
Every daffodil has its own rhythm to follow. Growth responds to daylight and soil temperature. Daffodils come to life when soil temperatures range from 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and as the sun rises and days lengthen. Each year brings a slightly different progression, so bloom times may vary by days or weeks from one year to another.
Early varieties such as February Gold (Narcissus 'February Gold,' USDA zones 4 to 8) and Ice Follies (Narcissus 'Ice Follies,' USDA zones 3 to 8) bloom, as their names suggest, as winter fades into very early spring. Tete-a-Tete (Narcissus 'Tete-a-Tete,' USDA zones 4 to 8) may bloom as early as February in warmer southern zones, but wait until March further north.
Mid-season begins in March in southern zones, but in cooler zones Jack Snipe (Narcissus 'Jack Snipe,' USDA zones 4 to 8), Trevithian (Narcissus 'Trevithian,' USDA zones 5 to 10) and many of the big mid-season trumpet "daffs" bloom throughout April.
Late varieties such as Salome (Narcissus 'Salome,' USDA zones 3 to 9) may bloom as late as mid-May in the north.
About Chilling
Many daffodils depend on winter chilling to keep their bloom time on track. They typically require temperatures between 35 and 48 degrees Fahrenheit for 12 to 18 weeks depending on variety -- not a problem for bulbs planted in fall in northern zones. Gardeners in USDA zone 8 and further south dig and dry bulbs with long chilling requirements after foliage dies down in summer and keep them in cool storage for three to four months before replanting. Gardeners in warmer zones can plant native daffodils such as tazetta daffodils (Narcissus 'Minnow,' USDA zones 5 through 9) that do not require lengthy chilling.
The Prolific Perennial
Daffodils are reliably perennial and will produce daughter bulbs along their bases. Separate these bulbs every two or three years after their foliage has died down in early summer. Just lay bulbs out in cool shade to dry. Pull off the daughter bulbs and plant them in sunny, well-drained soil come fall.
Mystery of the Bulb
Daffodil bulbs, like other tunicate bulbs, wear a protective layer of dried skin, or tunic, that helps insulate and keep bulbs moist. The thick layers underneath the tunic anchor this year's plant but also contain the embryo of a succeeding plant, flower and all, and enough nutritious material to keep it healthy until it is time for it to bloom, hopefully next spring. The bulb protects the growing flower from heat, drought and freezing weather.
The bulb never stops growing. It adds layers and processes and stores nutrients year-round. This prepares its hardy little occupant for the vicissitudes of unpredictable spring weather. It might even pop up through the last melting snow if conditions are right.
The Right Conditions
Every daffodil has its own rhythm to follow. Growth responds to daylight and soil temperature. Daffodils come to life when soil temperatures range from 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and as the sun rises and days lengthen. Each year brings a slightly different progression, so bloom times may vary by days or weeks from one year to another.
Early varieties such as February Gold (Narcissus 'February Gold,' USDA zones 4 to 8) and Ice Follies (Narcissus 'Ice Follies,' USDA zones 3 to 8) bloom, as their names suggest, as winter fades into very early spring. Tete-a-Tete (Narcissus 'Tete-a-Tete,' USDA zones 4 to 8) may bloom as early as February in warmer southern zones, but wait until March further north.
Mid-season begins in March in southern zones, but in cooler zones Jack Snipe (Narcissus 'Jack Snipe,' USDA zones 4 to 8), Trevithian (Narcissus 'Trevithian,' USDA zones 5 to 10) and many of the big mid-season trumpet "daffs" bloom throughout April.
Late varieties such as Salome (Narcissus 'Salome,' USDA zones 3 to 9) may bloom as late as mid-May in the north.
About Chilling
Many daffodils depend on winter chilling to keep their bloom time on track. They typically require temperatures between 35 and 48 degrees Fahrenheit for 12 to 18 weeks depending on variety -- not a problem for bulbs planted in fall in northern zones. Gardeners in USDA zone 8 and further south dig and dry bulbs with long chilling requirements after foliage dies down in summer and keep them in cool storage for three to four months before replanting. Gardeners in warmer zones can plant native daffodils such as tazetta daffodils (Narcissus 'Minnow,' USDA zones 5 through 9) that do not require lengthy chilling.
The Prolific Perennial
Daffodils are reliably perennial and will produce daughter bulbs along their bases. Separate these bulbs every two or three years after their foliage has died down in early summer. Just lay bulbs out in cool shade to dry. Pull off the daughter bulbs and plant them in sunny, well-drained soil come fall.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月08日
Winter seems to slip into spring almost unseen some years. The north wind brings frost one day, and the next day tulips (Tulipa spp.) and daffodils (Narcissus spp.) are popping up. Too often, though, one last frost or even a few more inches of snow spoil a gardener's fun. Fear not: A light frost won't hurt tulip or daffodil plants. In fact, they need a bit of chilling to bloom their best.
Tough Spring Bulbs
Hardy spring bulbs such as tulips and daffodils survive frozen ground where air temperatures dip to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Some other bulb plants even bloom through snow, leading the way in spring. Provided they are not in bloom, tulips and daffodils are tough enough to survive a few nights of light frost. A coating of snow may weight them down or break their emerging stems, but won't kill the bulbs. Tulips are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, depending on type, and daffodils are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8, depending on cultivar.
Survival Characteristic
Aside from their hardiness, tulip and daffodils share the common trait of growing from bulbs, which are modified roots adapted to protect and feed the plants in unpredictable periods of time, such as during extreme cold. Each bulb grows a layer of tissue as an embryonic plant, complete with flower.
As the days lengthen in spring and the ground thaws, the plants emerge from the bulbs on a schedule determined by evolution. Provided bulbs are planted under 6 to 8 inches of loamy soil and the soil remains moist but not soggy, the bulbs have the conditions necessary to emerge on a day when the environmental odds are in their favor.
Spring Companions
Tulips and daffodils are suitable companions in a spring garden. Both naturalize easily, growing in drifts. Early daffodils typically bloom before early tulips, providing up to two months of color beginning in March or April and ending in April or May, depending on the latitude.
Species tulips return year after year more easily than hybrids, and division adds longevity to daffodil bulbs, which tend to reproduce every three to five years. When the number of blooms declines, simply dig up the old bulbs and either plant new bulbs or divide the old bulbs, and store them when dry in a refrigerator until fall planting time.
Give your tulips and daffodils the best positions to minimize the effects of sudden spring frosts and freezes. Plant their bulbs on your home's north or east side, where sunlight doesn't heat the soil as fast as it does on south and west sides.
In Case of Extremes
Although tulips and daffodils are cold-tolerant, temperatures below 29 degrees Fahrenheit can damage their tender buds and flowers. An extended hard freeze can damage whole plants. Because next year's plants are forming within the bulbs, though, cold damage may be limited to this year's growth.
If a hard freeze is forecast after tulip and daffodil plants emerge above soil in spring, then cover the plants with a cloth sheet. Cloth insulates -- as long as it doesn't touch the plants -- and holds in ground warmth.
Tough Spring Bulbs
Hardy spring bulbs such as tulips and daffodils survive frozen ground where air temperatures dip to minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Some other bulb plants even bloom through snow, leading the way in spring. Provided they are not in bloom, tulips and daffodils are tough enough to survive a few nights of light frost. A coating of snow may weight them down or break their emerging stems, but won't kill the bulbs. Tulips are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, depending on type, and daffodils are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 8, depending on cultivar.
Survival Characteristic
Aside from their hardiness, tulip and daffodils share the common trait of growing from bulbs, which are modified roots adapted to protect and feed the plants in unpredictable periods of time, such as during extreme cold. Each bulb grows a layer of tissue as an embryonic plant, complete with flower.
As the days lengthen in spring and the ground thaws, the plants emerge from the bulbs on a schedule determined by evolution. Provided bulbs are planted under 6 to 8 inches of loamy soil and the soil remains moist but not soggy, the bulbs have the conditions necessary to emerge on a day when the environmental odds are in their favor.
Spring Companions
Tulips and daffodils are suitable companions in a spring garden. Both naturalize easily, growing in drifts. Early daffodils typically bloom before early tulips, providing up to two months of color beginning in March or April and ending in April or May, depending on the latitude.
Species tulips return year after year more easily than hybrids, and division adds longevity to daffodil bulbs, which tend to reproduce every three to five years. When the number of blooms declines, simply dig up the old bulbs and either plant new bulbs or divide the old bulbs, and store them when dry in a refrigerator until fall planting time.
Give your tulips and daffodils the best positions to minimize the effects of sudden spring frosts and freezes. Plant their bulbs on your home's north or east side, where sunlight doesn't heat the soil as fast as it does on south and west sides.
In Case of Extremes
Although tulips and daffodils are cold-tolerant, temperatures below 29 degrees Fahrenheit can damage their tender buds and flowers. An extended hard freeze can damage whole plants. Because next year's plants are forming within the bulbs, though, cold damage may be limited to this year's growth.
If a hard freeze is forecast after tulip and daffodil plants emerge above soil in spring, then cover the plants with a cloth sheet. Cloth insulates -- as long as it doesn't touch the plants -- and holds in ground warmth.
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Miss Chen
2018年01月07日
Potted hyacinths are sold as seasonal flowering plants. You can make the flowers bloom earlier in the season than they do naturally, usually in late winter or early spring. The bulbs grow and bloom inside the home after they are forced. The potted hyacinths rarely bloom a second time in the pot, but you can replant them outdoors and they may bloom again the next year. Caring for the potted hyacinth properly during the flowering period helps prolong the life of the blossoms.
Step 1
Set the hyacinth pot in an area that receives bright sunlight until the bulbs begin to flower. Keep the pot in an area with a temperature near 60 degrees F for best growth.
Step 2
Water the bulbs when the top half inch of soil feels dry. Hyacinth are sometimes grown in pebbles and water instead of soil. Water these bulbs as needed so the water level remains just below the bottom of the bulb.
Step 3
Move the hyacinth pot to an area that receives bright but indirect sunlight once the flower blossoms begin to open. Direct sunlight during flowering may cause the blooms to wilt prematurely.
Step 4
Fertilize the bulbs with a soluble balanced fertilizer after the blooms begin to fade if you want to replant them outdoors. Only potted hyacinths in soil replant well - pebble-grown bulbs should be discarded. Apply the fertilizer every two weeks at half the recommended monthly dosage on the label.
Step 5
Cut off the flower stalks after the blossoms fade but leave the foliage in place. Move the plants back into direct sunlight and continue to water and fertilize them until the foliage dies back naturally.
Step 6
Cut the foliage off the bulbs to within 1 inch of the top of the bulb. Plant the bulbs outdoors in a sunny, well-drained bed, spacing them 2 to 3 inches apart in all directions. It may take up to two years before the hyacinths flower again.
Step 1
Set the hyacinth pot in an area that receives bright sunlight until the bulbs begin to flower. Keep the pot in an area with a temperature near 60 degrees F for best growth.
Step 2
Water the bulbs when the top half inch of soil feels dry. Hyacinth are sometimes grown in pebbles and water instead of soil. Water these bulbs as needed so the water level remains just below the bottom of the bulb.
Step 3
Move the hyacinth pot to an area that receives bright but indirect sunlight once the flower blossoms begin to open. Direct sunlight during flowering may cause the blooms to wilt prematurely.
Step 4
Fertilize the bulbs with a soluble balanced fertilizer after the blooms begin to fade if you want to replant them outdoors. Only potted hyacinths in soil replant well - pebble-grown bulbs should be discarded. Apply the fertilizer every two weeks at half the recommended monthly dosage on the label.
Step 5
Cut off the flower stalks after the blossoms fade but leave the foliage in place. Move the plants back into direct sunlight and continue to water and fertilize them until the foliage dies back naturally.
Step 6
Cut the foliage off the bulbs to within 1 inch of the top of the bulb. Plant the bulbs outdoors in a sunny, well-drained bed, spacing them 2 to 3 inches apart in all directions. It may take up to two years before the hyacinths flower again.
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Miss Chen
2018年01月07日
Amaryllis (Hippeastrum spp.) produce flamboyant blooms over outsize bulbs. The tropical plants grow outdoors only in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but they also make a splash as houseplants where they brighten winter holidays. How many times they'll bloom indoors or how long they'll last in the garden depends on how you treat them after they're finished blooming.
The Perennial Bulb
Like other bulbs, the amaryllis nurtures next year's plant and bloom as this year's flowers fade. It is also perennial, which means that it lives for three years or longer. How many years your amaryllis lives depends on its ability to gather nutrients, a process fueled by photosynthesis in its leaves.
Unlike many bulbs, amaryllis leaves follow flowers and persist for several months after the plant has bloomed in the spring. Whether outdoors or in a container, do not cut the amaryllis plant's long, straplike leaves until they whither. In this way, you've given the perennial bulb another year of life.
Indoor Bulbs
Gift amaryllis bulbs typically arrive eight to 10 weeks before the winter holidays with instructions to begin watering them immediately. Depending on the age of the bulb, it will produce one or more scapes typically topped by three trumpet-shaped flowers in shades of red, pink, white or bicolor combinations. Indoors, with bright light and moderate temperatures, each scape of flowers lasts up to a month. Plants kept in a cool room, around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, bloom longest.
In the Garden
Plant amaryllis bulbs in the garden in September or October in USDA zones 8 through 10. Use purchased bulbs or gift bulbs that have faded. Plant the bulbs in organic, well-draining soil with the wide side down so that the narrow neck sits above the soil.
Beginning when scapes begin growing in February or March, fertilize with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 6-12-12. Work 1 to 1.5 pounds into the soil for every 100-foot of row or for 100 square feet of bed. Fertilize when the bulbs break dormancy, when scapes reach 6 to 8 inches tall and again after the flowers fade in April. Remove faded flower scapes to stop energy-robbing seed formation.
Bulbs and Dormancy
Whether indoors or out, the secret to long-lived amaryllis lies in their ability to build new embryos while their leaves fade throughout the summer. Dormancy allows them to rest before entering the "home stretch" of bloom. After this period of rapid growth, bulbs need a period of 2 to 3 months of dormancy. Stop watering plants and put potted bulbs in a cool, dry basement or plant them with garden bulbs in fall.
Begin watering plants again as they emerge from dormancy in February or March and keep the soil evenly moist as bulbs bloom. Within two to three years, bulbs may produce offsets -- bulblets that, when removed during dormancy and planted in pots or garden, may produce flowers within three to four years, prolonging the bloom of your amaryllis collection.
The Perennial Bulb
Like other bulbs, the amaryllis nurtures next year's plant and bloom as this year's flowers fade. It is also perennial, which means that it lives for three years or longer. How many years your amaryllis lives depends on its ability to gather nutrients, a process fueled by photosynthesis in its leaves.
Unlike many bulbs, amaryllis leaves follow flowers and persist for several months after the plant has bloomed in the spring. Whether outdoors or in a container, do not cut the amaryllis plant's long, straplike leaves until they whither. In this way, you've given the perennial bulb another year of life.
Indoor Bulbs
Gift amaryllis bulbs typically arrive eight to 10 weeks before the winter holidays with instructions to begin watering them immediately. Depending on the age of the bulb, it will produce one or more scapes typically topped by three trumpet-shaped flowers in shades of red, pink, white or bicolor combinations. Indoors, with bright light and moderate temperatures, each scape of flowers lasts up to a month. Plants kept in a cool room, around 65 degrees Fahrenheit, bloom longest.
In the Garden
Plant amaryllis bulbs in the garden in September or October in USDA zones 8 through 10. Use purchased bulbs or gift bulbs that have faded. Plant the bulbs in organic, well-draining soil with the wide side down so that the narrow neck sits above the soil.
Beginning when scapes begin growing in February or March, fertilize with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or 6-12-12. Work 1 to 1.5 pounds into the soil for every 100-foot of row or for 100 square feet of bed. Fertilize when the bulbs break dormancy, when scapes reach 6 to 8 inches tall and again after the flowers fade in April. Remove faded flower scapes to stop energy-robbing seed formation.
Bulbs and Dormancy
Whether indoors or out, the secret to long-lived amaryllis lies in their ability to build new embryos while their leaves fade throughout the summer. Dormancy allows them to rest before entering the "home stretch" of bloom. After this period of rapid growth, bulbs need a period of 2 to 3 months of dormancy. Stop watering plants and put potted bulbs in a cool, dry basement or plant them with garden bulbs in fall.
Begin watering plants again as they emerge from dormancy in February or March and keep the soil evenly moist as bulbs bloom. Within two to three years, bulbs may produce offsets -- bulblets that, when removed during dormancy and planted in pots or garden, may produce flowers within three to four years, prolonging the bloom of your amaryllis collection.
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Miss Chen
2017年12月21日
Description: This plant is a winter annual (less often, a spring annual) about 1' tall. It consists of a rosette of basal leaves up to 6" across, from which one or flowering stalks develop. The basal leaves are bipinnate to pinnate-pinnatifid; they have long slender petioles. Simple leaflets are divided into 3 or more deep lobes that are oblong-oblanceolate in shape. Compound leaflets are divided into 3 or more subleaflets; individual subleaflets are divided into 3 or more deep lobes that are oblong-oblanceolate in shape. The petiolules (basal stalklets) of the leaflets and subleaflets are very slender and short. The foliage of Large-Bracted Corydalis (both leaves and petioles) is greyish green and glabrous.
The flowering stalks are sprawling, ascending, or erect, reaching up to 1¼' in length. Normally, they are unbranched, although occasionally a flowering stalk will branch and develop lateral flowering stalks. These stalks are greyish green and glabrous. Each stalk terminates in a spike-like raceme of several flowers. Each flower has a yellow corolla about ¾" long that is tubular-conical in shape (broader in front than in the back); this corolla consists of 2 outer petals and 2 inner petals. The upper outer petal forms a short upper lip in front that curls upward, and it has a rather long blunt spur in back. The lower outer petal forms a rounded lower lip that functions as a landing pad for visiting insects. The two inner petals are largely hidden by the outer petals, although they can be seen as a white lining within the throat of the corolla. Behind the upper lip of the upper petal, there is a crested protuberance that is greenish yellow to yellow. There is a similar protuberance underneath the lower lip of the lower petal. The sepals of the flowers are small and insignificant. Underneath each flower, there is a single bract about ½" long. This bract is greyish green, glabrous, and either ovate or divided into lobes with short blunt tips. A typical raceme will have some flower buds toward its apex, about 2-8 flowers in bloom near the middle, and developing seedpods below.
The blooming period for plants that are winter annuals occurs during late spring, while plants that are spring annuals bloom during mid-summer. A typical plant will remain in bloom for up to a month. Each seedpod is about 1" long, greyish green, glabrous, cylindrical in shape, and slightly flattened, terminating in a slender beak at its tip; it contains about 6-12 seeds. Relative to the axis of the spike-like raceme, the seedpods are erect to ascending, often bending upward slightly. The small seeds are black, shiny, globoid, and somewhat flattened. Each seed has a dull white elaisome (food appendage) that is laterally attached; the elaisome darkens and withers away with age. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and sandy soil. Large-Bracted Corydalis also grows readily in gravelly or loamy soil; if it is grown in moist loamy soil, taller and more aggressive plant species should be kept away from it. Foliar disease and insects are not normally troublesome. The seeds will germinate after a short dormancy period; they can be planted during the fall or early spring.
Range & Habitat: The native Large-Bracted Corydalis is an uncommon plant that occurs in a few counties in western Illinois (see Distribution Map). Prior to 1986, it was incorrectly identified as another species of Corydalis. Recently, several large populations of Large-Bracted Corydalis have been discovered, therefore it is more common in Illinois than previously believed. However, it is still state-listed as 'threatened.' This species is more common in the south-central states; western Illinois lies at the northeast corner of its range. Habitats include sand prairies, sandy fallow fields, and sandy or gravelly areas along roads and railroads (including the ballast). Disturbed areas are preferred, particularly where ant hills occur. Occasional wildfires, sand blow-outs, and overgrazing by herbivores are probably beneficial in maintaining populations of this plant.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are pollinated by bumblebees. The oily appendages of the seeds (elaisomes) attract ants (particularly Pheidole bicarinata), which undoubtedly help to disperse the seeds. The poisonous foliage is avoided by mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Both the flowers and foliage are quite attractive. Large-Bracted Corydalis can be distinguished from other Corydalis spp. by its long yellow flowers (exceeding 2/3" or 15 mm. in length) and their large leafy bracts (exceeding 1/3" or 8 mm. in length). Other Corydalis spp. in Illinois have shorter bracts and/or shorter flowers. Large-Bracted Corydalis also differs from some Corydalis spp. by the crested protuberances behind the lips of its flowers (as opposed to protuberances that lack crests). In contrast to the seedpods of the similar Corydalis aurea (Golden Corydalis), the seedpods of Large-Bracted Corydalis are more erect and they lack constrictions between their seeds (they are not torulose). There are other varieties of Corydalis curvisiliqua, but they occur in states that lie southwest of Illinois.
The flowering stalks are sprawling, ascending, or erect, reaching up to 1¼' in length. Normally, they are unbranched, although occasionally a flowering stalk will branch and develop lateral flowering stalks. These stalks are greyish green and glabrous. Each stalk terminates in a spike-like raceme of several flowers. Each flower has a yellow corolla about ¾" long that is tubular-conical in shape (broader in front than in the back); this corolla consists of 2 outer petals and 2 inner petals. The upper outer petal forms a short upper lip in front that curls upward, and it has a rather long blunt spur in back. The lower outer petal forms a rounded lower lip that functions as a landing pad for visiting insects. The two inner petals are largely hidden by the outer petals, although they can be seen as a white lining within the throat of the corolla. Behind the upper lip of the upper petal, there is a crested protuberance that is greenish yellow to yellow. There is a similar protuberance underneath the lower lip of the lower petal. The sepals of the flowers are small and insignificant. Underneath each flower, there is a single bract about ½" long. This bract is greyish green, glabrous, and either ovate or divided into lobes with short blunt tips. A typical raceme will have some flower buds toward its apex, about 2-8 flowers in bloom near the middle, and developing seedpods below.
The blooming period for plants that are winter annuals occurs during late spring, while plants that are spring annuals bloom during mid-summer. A typical plant will remain in bloom for up to a month. Each seedpod is about 1" long, greyish green, glabrous, cylindrical in shape, and slightly flattened, terminating in a slender beak at its tip; it contains about 6-12 seeds. Relative to the axis of the spike-like raceme, the seedpods are erect to ascending, often bending upward slightly. The small seeds are black, shiny, globoid, and somewhat flattened. Each seed has a dull white elaisome (food appendage) that is laterally attached; the elaisome darkens and withers away with age. The root system consists of a taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself.
Cultivation: The preference is full or partial sun, mesic to dry conditions, and sandy soil. Large-Bracted Corydalis also grows readily in gravelly or loamy soil; if it is grown in moist loamy soil, taller and more aggressive plant species should be kept away from it. Foliar disease and insects are not normally troublesome. The seeds will germinate after a short dormancy period; they can be planted during the fall or early spring.
Range & Habitat: The native Large-Bracted Corydalis is an uncommon plant that occurs in a few counties in western Illinois (see Distribution Map). Prior to 1986, it was incorrectly identified as another species of Corydalis. Recently, several large populations of Large-Bracted Corydalis have been discovered, therefore it is more common in Illinois than previously believed. However, it is still state-listed as 'threatened.' This species is more common in the south-central states; western Illinois lies at the northeast corner of its range. Habitats include sand prairies, sandy fallow fields, and sandy or gravelly areas along roads and railroads (including the ballast). Disturbed areas are preferred, particularly where ant hills occur. Occasional wildfires, sand blow-outs, and overgrazing by herbivores are probably beneficial in maintaining populations of this plant.
Faunal Associations: The flowers are pollinated by bumblebees. The oily appendages of the seeds (elaisomes) attract ants (particularly Pheidole bicarinata), which undoubtedly help to disperse the seeds. The poisonous foliage is avoided by mammalian herbivores.
Photographic Location: The wildflower garden of the webmaster in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Both the flowers and foliage are quite attractive. Large-Bracted Corydalis can be distinguished from other Corydalis spp. by its long yellow flowers (exceeding 2/3" or 15 mm. in length) and their large leafy bracts (exceeding 1/3" or 8 mm. in length). Other Corydalis spp. in Illinois have shorter bracts and/or shorter flowers. Large-Bracted Corydalis also differs from some Corydalis spp. by the crested protuberances behind the lips of its flowers (as opposed to protuberances that lack crests). In contrast to the seedpods of the similar Corydalis aurea (Golden Corydalis), the seedpods of Large-Bracted Corydalis are more erect and they lack constrictions between their seeds (they are not torulose). There are other varieties of Corydalis curvisiliqua, but they occur in states that lie southwest of Illinois.
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Miss Chen
2017年12月15日
Small Clementine oranges (Citrus reticulata "Clementine") don't have seeds. Their thin peel is simple to remove, making them a welcome treat as they ripen in winter. Like most citrus varieties, Clementine only grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, but you can enjoy them in any climate by growing the trees indoors. Look for trees grafted onto dwarf or semi-dwarf root stocks -- often labeled as patio or container citrus by nurseries. "Clementine" grafted to dwarf root stock grows slowly and rarely reaches heights above 5 or 6 feet.
Plant Clementine in a 20- to 24-inch-diameter container at least as deep as it is wide. Select a container with bottom drainage, and place it on a wheeled cart so it's simpler to move the heavy plant. Use a well-draining potting soil rich in organic matter, and plant the tree so that the graft union, or raised knot on the lower trunk, is just above the soil surface in the pot.
Set the tree near a window that receives full, all-day sunlight. "Clementine" leaves yellow and the tree fails to fruit without sufficient sun. Set the container outside during frost-free summers to increase light exposure, and bring it indoors for winter. Alternatively, hang a full-spectrum fluorescent grow light 2 feet above the tree and leave it on all day to ensure the indoor plant receives sufficient light.
Feel the soil in the pot daily, and water when the top 1 inch begins to feel dry. Pour water onto the soil with a watering can just until the excess begins to drain from the bottom of the pot. Empty the excess water from the drip tray beneath the pot after watering, because standing water can lead to waterlogged soil and root rot problems.
Fertilize indoor potted Clementines year-round with a fertilizer formulated for citrus, such as a 13-7-13 blend. These trees don't enter a true dormant stage, so they require ongoing fertilization. Sprinkle 1 1/2 cups on top of the soil, a few inches from the trunk, for trees under 3 feet tall, or up to 3 cups for trees up to 5 feet tall. Water immediately after application so the fertilizer soaks into the soil. Reapply the fertilizer every two to three months.
Trim off any suckers that grow along the trunk below the graft union. Cut these off flush to the trunk, using a shears sterilized in a 10 percent bleach solution.
Cut off broken or dead branches any time, removing them back the to trunk or the nearest healthy wood. You can trim off small, unsightly branches from along the trunk to give the Clementine a more balanced appearance. Pinch back the growing tips of the branches by 1 inch when new growth appears in the spring to encourage full, balanced growth. Indoor citrus trees tolerate pruning at any time for shape or size control.
Monitor the tree for common indoor pests, including aphids and mites. Take the tree outside or set it in a bathtub, and then spray the leaves with a sharp spray of water to dislodge and wash away these pests. If you take your Clementine outdoors in the summer, fully rinse the foliage before bringing the tree back indoors for winter.
Plant Clementine in a 20- to 24-inch-diameter container at least as deep as it is wide. Select a container with bottom drainage, and place it on a wheeled cart so it's simpler to move the heavy plant. Use a well-draining potting soil rich in organic matter, and plant the tree so that the graft union, or raised knot on the lower trunk, is just above the soil surface in the pot.
Set the tree near a window that receives full, all-day sunlight. "Clementine" leaves yellow and the tree fails to fruit without sufficient sun. Set the container outside during frost-free summers to increase light exposure, and bring it indoors for winter. Alternatively, hang a full-spectrum fluorescent grow light 2 feet above the tree and leave it on all day to ensure the indoor plant receives sufficient light.
Feel the soil in the pot daily, and water when the top 1 inch begins to feel dry. Pour water onto the soil with a watering can just until the excess begins to drain from the bottom of the pot. Empty the excess water from the drip tray beneath the pot after watering, because standing water can lead to waterlogged soil and root rot problems.
Fertilize indoor potted Clementines year-round with a fertilizer formulated for citrus, such as a 13-7-13 blend. These trees don't enter a true dormant stage, so they require ongoing fertilization. Sprinkle 1 1/2 cups on top of the soil, a few inches from the trunk, for trees under 3 feet tall, or up to 3 cups for trees up to 5 feet tall. Water immediately after application so the fertilizer soaks into the soil. Reapply the fertilizer every two to three months.
Trim off any suckers that grow along the trunk below the graft union. Cut these off flush to the trunk, using a shears sterilized in a 10 percent bleach solution.
Cut off broken or dead branches any time, removing them back the to trunk or the nearest healthy wood. You can trim off small, unsightly branches from along the trunk to give the Clementine a more balanced appearance. Pinch back the growing tips of the branches by 1 inch when new growth appears in the spring to encourage full, balanced growth. Indoor citrus trees tolerate pruning at any time for shape or size control.
Monitor the tree for common indoor pests, including aphids and mites. Take the tree outside or set it in a bathtub, and then spray the leaves with a sharp spray of water to dislodge and wash away these pests. If you take your Clementine outdoors in the summer, fully rinse the foliage before bringing the tree back indoors for winter.
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Miss Chen
2017年12月15日
Hoyas are popular houseplants with long trailing stems, waxy leaves and fragrant flowers. Some varieties of hoyas bloom in spring and summer, some flower in fall and winter, and some bloom sporadically throughout the year. Although there are between 300 and 400 varieties, the wax plant (Hoya carnosa) is most commonly grown.
Description
Hoyas are slow growing with long woody stems. All hoyas have thick fleshy leaves with a waxy coating, but the color, shape and size vary depending on the variety. Clusters of creamy white to pink star-shaped flowers hang from the plant; some people find the fragrance of the blooms disagreeable. Hoyas contain milky sap that can stain clothes, furniture or walls.
Culture
Grow hoyas outside in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b and 11 in light shade. In colder zones, grow hoyas inside in a window with bright light. Hoyas do not tolerate direct sun or temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. During the growing season water thoroughly, allowing the top third of the soil in the container to completely dry out. Water sparingly in the winter. Mist plants with a spray bottle to maintain 40 percent to 60 percent humidity.
Flowering
Some hoyas bloom during their first year, while others do not flower until they are larger or more mature. New flowers grow from the bases of old flowers, which are called bloom spurs. Pruning the spurs off will reduce or delay flowering. If a hoya is not blooming, try moving it to an area with more light and apply a fertilizer with more phosphorus (the middle number on the label). Hoyas bloom better when they are root bound. If the flowers turn brown and mushy, or yellow and spongy, the soil is too wet. If the blooms dry up and fall off the plant, the soil has dried out too much between waterings. Cool drafts cause the flowers to drop off soon after they open.
Problems
Mealy bugs, small cottony insects, infest the stems and the undersides of the leaves on hoyas. Spray plants with a horticultural soap mixture to control mealy bugs. Nematodes can be a problem when hoyas are grown in the ground outside. Grow hoyas in containers to avoid damage from nematodes. Root rot is caused by soil that is too wet and soggy. Use a potting mixture that drains freely and do not overwater.
Description
Hoyas are slow growing with long woody stems. All hoyas have thick fleshy leaves with a waxy coating, but the color, shape and size vary depending on the variety. Clusters of creamy white to pink star-shaped flowers hang from the plant; some people find the fragrance of the blooms disagreeable. Hoyas contain milky sap that can stain clothes, furniture or walls.
Culture
Grow hoyas outside in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10b and 11 in light shade. In colder zones, grow hoyas inside in a window with bright light. Hoyas do not tolerate direct sun or temperatures below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. During the growing season water thoroughly, allowing the top third of the soil in the container to completely dry out. Water sparingly in the winter. Mist plants with a spray bottle to maintain 40 percent to 60 percent humidity.
Flowering
Some hoyas bloom during their first year, while others do not flower until they are larger or more mature. New flowers grow from the bases of old flowers, which are called bloom spurs. Pruning the spurs off will reduce or delay flowering. If a hoya is not blooming, try moving it to an area with more light and apply a fertilizer with more phosphorus (the middle number on the label). Hoyas bloom better when they are root bound. If the flowers turn brown and mushy, or yellow and spongy, the soil is too wet. If the blooms dry up and fall off the plant, the soil has dried out too much between waterings. Cool drafts cause the flowers to drop off soon after they open.
Problems
Mealy bugs, small cottony insects, infest the stems and the undersides of the leaves on hoyas. Spray plants with a horticultural soap mixture to control mealy bugs. Nematodes can be a problem when hoyas are grown in the ground outside. Grow hoyas in containers to avoid damage from nematodes. Root rot is caused by soil that is too wet and soggy. Use a potting mixture that drains freely and do not overwater.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月11日
Pruning grape vines produces a healthy fruit harvest. If you do not prune the grape vines, they will grow too much foliage and not produce fruit. Grape vines are mature when they are at least 3 years of age. Prune your grape vines in the winter months to encourage new growth in the spring. Once you prune the grape vines, you can train them to grow on arbors or trellises so that they do not take over your yard or garden.
Step 1
Remove leaves on the ground around the grape vine. This will prevent insects and birds from invading the grape vines and keep the vines healthy.
Step 2
Prune away any tangled vines. The tangled vines will prevent the grape vine from producing grapes. Place the tangled vines in a compost bin or trash bag.
Step 3
Remove shoots growing between the trellis wires. This will encourage the vines to continue to grow on the wires. Cut these shoots at the base near the main stem.
Step 4
Cut away secondary shoots, also known as suckers, from the main cane's base. The suckers take energy away from the grape vine.
Step 5
Prune the canes to leave four on each side of the vine. Keep two young canes on each side that appear shiny and smooth to keep the grapevine producing fruit. Remove older canes when they begin to crack and peel.
Step 6
Prune the spurs on the main canes. Leave two to three of the bud spurs. Prune them by spacing them apart 4 to 6 inches.
Step 1
Remove leaves on the ground around the grape vine. This will prevent insects and birds from invading the grape vines and keep the vines healthy.
Step 2
Prune away any tangled vines. The tangled vines will prevent the grape vine from producing grapes. Place the tangled vines in a compost bin or trash bag.
Step 3
Remove shoots growing between the trellis wires. This will encourage the vines to continue to grow on the wires. Cut these shoots at the base near the main stem.
Step 4
Cut away secondary shoots, also known as suckers, from the main cane's base. The suckers take energy away from the grape vine.
Step 5
Prune the canes to leave four on each side of the vine. Keep two young canes on each side that appear shiny and smooth to keep the grapevine producing fruit. Remove older canes when they begin to crack and peel.
Step 6
Prune the spurs on the main canes. Leave two to three of the bud spurs. Prune them by spacing them apart 4 to 6 inches.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
Grapes (Vitis spp.) are sensitive to cold, with most varieties being winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. But some grape varieties can stand up to a Michigan winter, at least in the southern part of the state. The key to successfully growing grapes in Michigan is to look for cultivars whose tolerance for cold matches the winter conditions in your part of the state.
Regional Differences
Of all the areas of the state, the part of Michigan that's best for growing grapes is the area along the Lake Michigan shoreline. The prevailing winds blowing across the lake moderate temperatures, keeping the area warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, and grapes appreciate the relief from both the winter cold and the summer heat.
Other lakeshore areas may also have climates that will support grape growing. In inland parts of the southern lower peninsula, growing grapes is more of a challenge, and it's probably not possible in the northern lower peninsula or the upper peninsula.
If you intend to grow grapes inland or in areas as far north as Muskegon or Saginaw Bay, look for grape varieties that are labeled as hardy.
Table Grapes
Among white seedless table grape varieties, "Marquis" (Vitis "Marquis," USDA zones 5 through 9) is a good choice for a home garden. "Kay Gray" (Vitis "Kay Gray," USDA zones 4 through 8) and "Edelweiss" (Vitis "Edelweiss," USDA zones 4 through 8) are white, seeded varieties that are exceptionally hardy and may withstand harsher inland winters.
"Buffalo" (Vitis "Buffalo") is a blue, seeded table grape variety that does well in traditional fruit-growing areas, and "Steuben" (Vitis "Steuben") is a blue that will grow throughout the southern lower peninsula. Both of these grapes are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Swenson Red" (Vitis "Swenson Red," USDA zones 4 through 8) is a hardy red, seeded variety that will also grow well in the southern half of the lower peninsula.
Hybrid Wine Grapes
The wine grape varieties most commonly grown in Michigan are hybrids of French varieties and various native American species. The development of some of these cultivars has focused on cold hardiness, and that makes them good choices for growing in Michigan.
White wine varieties that do well in the state include "Cayuga White" (Vitis "Cayuga White"), "Chardonel" (Vitis "Chardonel"), "Seyval Blanc" (Vitis "Seyval Blanc"), "Traminette" (Vitis "Traminette") and "Vignoles" (Vitis "Vignoles"), all of which grow in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Vidal Blanc" (Vitis "Vidal Blanc") is somewhat less hardy and is suitable for USDA zones 5b through 9.
Red hybrid wine varieties that are suitable for Michigan are less numerous -- "Baco Noir" (Vitis "Baco Noir," USDA zones 6a through 9) is the most commonly grown.
American Grape Varieties
The labrusca grape species (Vitis labrusca) is native to eastern North America, and it is known for its musky aroma. Two labrusca varieties, the blue "Concord" (Vitis labrusca "Concord," USDA zones 5 through 9) and the white "Niagara" (Vitis labrusca "Niagara," USDA zones 5 through 9), can also be grown in Michigan, but their strong flavors limit their appeal as wine grapes.
Regional Differences
Of all the areas of the state, the part of Michigan that's best for growing grapes is the area along the Lake Michigan shoreline. The prevailing winds blowing across the lake moderate temperatures, keeping the area warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, and grapes appreciate the relief from both the winter cold and the summer heat.
Other lakeshore areas may also have climates that will support grape growing. In inland parts of the southern lower peninsula, growing grapes is more of a challenge, and it's probably not possible in the northern lower peninsula or the upper peninsula.
If you intend to grow grapes inland or in areas as far north as Muskegon or Saginaw Bay, look for grape varieties that are labeled as hardy.
Table Grapes
Among white seedless table grape varieties, "Marquis" (Vitis "Marquis," USDA zones 5 through 9) is a good choice for a home garden. "Kay Gray" (Vitis "Kay Gray," USDA zones 4 through 8) and "Edelweiss" (Vitis "Edelweiss," USDA zones 4 through 8) are white, seeded varieties that are exceptionally hardy and may withstand harsher inland winters.
"Buffalo" (Vitis "Buffalo") is a blue, seeded table grape variety that does well in traditional fruit-growing areas, and "Steuben" (Vitis "Steuben") is a blue that will grow throughout the southern lower peninsula. Both of these grapes are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Swenson Red" (Vitis "Swenson Red," USDA zones 4 through 8) is a hardy red, seeded variety that will also grow well in the southern half of the lower peninsula.
Hybrid Wine Grapes
The wine grape varieties most commonly grown in Michigan are hybrids of French varieties and various native American species. The development of some of these cultivars has focused on cold hardiness, and that makes them good choices for growing in Michigan.
White wine varieties that do well in the state include "Cayuga White" (Vitis "Cayuga White"), "Chardonel" (Vitis "Chardonel"), "Seyval Blanc" (Vitis "Seyval Blanc"), "Traminette" (Vitis "Traminette") and "Vignoles" (Vitis "Vignoles"), all of which grow in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Vidal Blanc" (Vitis "Vidal Blanc") is somewhat less hardy and is suitable for USDA zones 5b through 9.
Red hybrid wine varieties that are suitable for Michigan are less numerous -- "Baco Noir" (Vitis "Baco Noir," USDA zones 6a through 9) is the most commonly grown.
American Grape Varieties
The labrusca grape species (Vitis labrusca) is native to eastern North America, and it is known for its musky aroma. Two labrusca varieties, the blue "Concord" (Vitis labrusca "Concord," USDA zones 5 through 9) and the white "Niagara" (Vitis labrusca "Niagara," USDA zones 5 through 9), can also be grown in Michigan, but their strong flavors limit their appeal as wine grapes.
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成长记
cclecombe
2017年11月05日
Given this guy a haircut for the winter! Propagating the offcuts to put back in when they have rooted
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月03日
Although garlic (Allium sativum) is winter-hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 to 8, it's usually grown by home gardeners as an annual, its mature bulbs harvested after a single growing season. In Ohio, garlic should be planted in the fall or early spring so that it has plenty of time to develop before the end of summer.
Choosing a Variety
Garlic can be of either the soft-neck or hard-neck type. Soft neck garlic varieties often have larger bulbs and will store longer than hard-neck types, but hard-neck varieties tend to be more cold-hardy and are better suited to the climate in Ohio. Varieties that do well in the state include "Music," "German White" and "German Red."
Timing of Planting
Garlic plants put their energy into leaf development when the weather is cool, and once the days start to get warmer, leaf growth stops and bulb growth takes over. Consequently, the plants need plenty of time early in the growing season to develop enough foliage to fuel bulb development later.
Most of Ohio falls into USDA zone 6a; exceptions include areas along the Lake Erie shore and the southern part of the state, which are classified as USDA zone 6b. Other higher-elevation areas fall into USDA zone 5b. In these zones, planting cloves in the fall, starting in the third week of October, will give the plants a jump on the season and allow the leaves to start growing through the winter. Alternatively, you can plant cloves in the early spring, but planting later than March or early April in Ohio will not give the plants enough time to develop fully.
Site Selection
Garlic needs a location that gets full sun through much of the day. It also needs well-drained soil with a light enough texture to allow for good bulb development. A loose, crumbly loam will satisfy both of the those requirements. Heavy clay soils, however, may retain too much moisture and cause bulbs to rot, and dense soils may result in small or ill-formed bulbs. Raised beds will also help soil to drain better and prevent bulb rot.
Soil Preparation
Garlic plants are heavy feeders, and they benefit from substantial amendment of the soil when they're planted. Add organic compost to the planting bed both to increase the soil's organic content and to improve the soil's texture. Till 3 to 6 inches of organic compost into the top 12 inches of soil. In addition, add about 3 pounds of a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed and work into the area prior to planting.
Clove Selection and Planting
It's best to buy seed garlic from a seed supplier or local grower. Supermarket garlic might grow in your garden, but when you know precisely what variety you're getting from a supplier, you're more likely to find a variety that will do well in your location.
Separate bulbs into individual cloves just prior to planting, taking care to leave the papery skin of the cloves intact. Choose the largest undamaged cloves to plant. Plant them with their tips facing upward between 1 and 1 1/2 inches deep; space the cloves 3 to 5 inches apart, and space rows of cloves 18 to 30 inches apart. Water the planting site until the soil is thoroughly moistened.
Garlic doesn't need much water after planting, but if the soil is dry and it's not likely to rain soon, water the newly planted cloves thoroughly.
Choosing a Variety
Garlic can be of either the soft-neck or hard-neck type. Soft neck garlic varieties often have larger bulbs and will store longer than hard-neck types, but hard-neck varieties tend to be more cold-hardy and are better suited to the climate in Ohio. Varieties that do well in the state include "Music," "German White" and "German Red."
Timing of Planting
Garlic plants put their energy into leaf development when the weather is cool, and once the days start to get warmer, leaf growth stops and bulb growth takes over. Consequently, the plants need plenty of time early in the growing season to develop enough foliage to fuel bulb development later.
Most of Ohio falls into USDA zone 6a; exceptions include areas along the Lake Erie shore and the southern part of the state, which are classified as USDA zone 6b. Other higher-elevation areas fall into USDA zone 5b. In these zones, planting cloves in the fall, starting in the third week of October, will give the plants a jump on the season and allow the leaves to start growing through the winter. Alternatively, you can plant cloves in the early spring, but planting later than March or early April in Ohio will not give the plants enough time to develop fully.
Site Selection
Garlic needs a location that gets full sun through much of the day. It also needs well-drained soil with a light enough texture to allow for good bulb development. A loose, crumbly loam will satisfy both of the those requirements. Heavy clay soils, however, may retain too much moisture and cause bulbs to rot, and dense soils may result in small or ill-formed bulbs. Raised beds will also help soil to drain better and prevent bulb rot.
Soil Preparation
Garlic plants are heavy feeders, and they benefit from substantial amendment of the soil when they're planted. Add organic compost to the planting bed both to increase the soil's organic content and to improve the soil's texture. Till 3 to 6 inches of organic compost into the top 12 inches of soil. In addition, add about 3 pounds of a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed and work into the area prior to planting.
Clove Selection and Planting
It's best to buy seed garlic from a seed supplier or local grower. Supermarket garlic might grow in your garden, but when you know precisely what variety you're getting from a supplier, you're more likely to find a variety that will do well in your location.
Separate bulbs into individual cloves just prior to planting, taking care to leave the papery skin of the cloves intact. Choose the largest undamaged cloves to plant. Plant them with their tips facing upward between 1 and 1 1/2 inches deep; space the cloves 3 to 5 inches apart, and space rows of cloves 18 to 30 inches apart. Water the planting site until the soil is thoroughly moistened.
Garlic doesn't need much water after planting, but if the soil is dry and it's not likely to rain soon, water the newly planted cloves thoroughly.
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