文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Despite its name, the pickleworm’s favorite meal is squash, both winter and summer types. These pinkish or green caterpillars feed on the blossoms, stems, and developing fruits of squash, cucumbers, cantaloupe and some pumpkins.
Pickleworms overwinter in tropical zones and as adult moths they migrate northward in early summer to lay their eggs on susceptible plants. Pickleworm larvae feed on flowers and tunnel into young fruits before pupating. With two to four generations per year, pickleworms are year-round pests in the southernmost part of the U.S. They can migrate as far north as the Carolinas during the summer.
Prevention and Control
Plant as early as possible so crops are harvested before late summer, when damage is usually greatest.
In southern areas of Florida and Texas, pull up and destroy vines and leftover fruits after harvest, along with nearby weeds, to minimize opportunities for the pest to overwinter.
Pickleworms overwinter in tropical zones and as adult moths they migrate northward in early summer to lay their eggs on susceptible plants. Pickleworm larvae feed on flowers and tunnel into young fruits before pupating. With two to four generations per year, pickleworms are year-round pests in the southernmost part of the U.S. They can migrate as far north as the Carolinas during the summer.
Prevention and Control
Plant as early as possible so crops are harvested before late summer, when damage is usually greatest.
In southern areas of Florida and Texas, pull up and destroy vines and leftover fruits after harvest, along with nearby weeds, to minimize opportunities for the pest to overwinter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The squash vine borer, Melittia cucurbitae, is native to Missouri. It is a serious pest of both summer and winter squash. The insect will also attack cucumbers, pumpkins, muskmelons, and watermelons.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The first symptom is generally wilting of part or all of the plant. At the base of the plant, moist, sawdustlike debris (frass) can be seen piled outside small holes in the stem. If the stem is split lengthwise, frass and one or more fat, white caterpillars with brown heads can be found tunneling in the stem.
Life Cycle
Squash vine borers overwinter as pupae in a silken, dirt-covered cocoon one or two inches below the soil surface. Adult squash vine borers are day-flying clear wing moths a little over 1/2 inch long with reddish-white bodies and black bands on their abdomen. They have a distinctive wasp-like appearance. Their forewings are greenish-brown but their hind wings are transparent. The insect has a wing span of about 1-1/2 inches. The hind legs are orange and black, long, and hairy. Adults emerge in early to mid-June through July, first appearing about the time cucurbits begin to bloom, and lay 1/10 inch long, brown or reddish-brown eggs in rows or clusters on all parts of the plant but predominately on the stem. Upon hatching, the larvae immediately bore into the stems and remain there until full grown; then full-grown larvae move into the soil to overwinter. There is one generation a year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove and destroy the borers. Once detected the borers need to be killed or removed from the stem. The easiest way is to slit the stem above where the hole and frass is noticed and remove the insect or insects from the stem. Cover the stem area with soil to encourage new roots to form above the damaged area. This may save the plant, depending upon the severity of the damage. Dip your knife in a 10% solution of bleach before making the next cut in order to prevent transmitting wilt or rot organisms, which might be present.
2. Biological control. Borers can also be killed by injecting a solution of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) into the infested stem, using a disposable syringe or wood working glue injector. Follow the disinfecting and mounding procedures discussed above. This method can also be used as a preventive if injected into the stem 1-1/2 inches above ground level when the plants first begin to flower.
3. Promote rooting along stems. About every five leaves or so, place a small mound of soil over the stem to encourage rooting. Then if borers kill the lower part of the plant, the upper parts will have roots to recover.
4. Clean up plant debris. Plants killed by borer activity should be pulled up. Place these plants in a large, clear, plastic bag and leave it in the sun for a week or so. This will kill any borers still in the debris. In the fall, clean up and dispose of old plant debris. Leave the soil uncovered for a day or so to give birds a chance to clean up any insects on the ground.
5. Protect plants with a row cover. In subsequent years, early in the season, plants can be protected with floating row covers secured on all edges to prevent flying adults from laying eggs on the plants. The cover needs to be removed when the plants begin flowering.
6. Use chemical controls with caution. Properly timed chemical pesticides can be effective. Scout plants early and often, watching for the first signs of borer’s frass at entrance holes in the stems indicating egg laying has occurred. Two insecticide applications spaced 5 to 7 days apart will control the majority of newly hatched larvae before they enter the vines. Chemical controls are not effective once the borer is inside the stem. Sevin can be applied to crowns and runners when the plants begin to vine. Apply late in the day because Sevin is very toxic to bees that frequent vine crops and facilitate pollination. Bees carry grains of Sevin dust back to the hive where it can kill many bees.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
The first symptom is generally wilting of part or all of the plant. At the base of the plant, moist, sawdustlike debris (frass) can be seen piled outside small holes in the stem. If the stem is split lengthwise, frass and one or more fat, white caterpillars with brown heads can be found tunneling in the stem.
Life Cycle
Squash vine borers overwinter as pupae in a silken, dirt-covered cocoon one or two inches below the soil surface. Adult squash vine borers are day-flying clear wing moths a little over 1/2 inch long with reddish-white bodies and black bands on their abdomen. They have a distinctive wasp-like appearance. Their forewings are greenish-brown but their hind wings are transparent. The insect has a wing span of about 1-1/2 inches. The hind legs are orange and black, long, and hairy. Adults emerge in early to mid-June through July, first appearing about the time cucurbits begin to bloom, and lay 1/10 inch long, brown or reddish-brown eggs in rows or clusters on all parts of the plant but predominately on the stem. Upon hatching, the larvae immediately bore into the stems and remain there until full grown; then full-grown larvae move into the soil to overwinter. There is one generation a year.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Remove and destroy the borers. Once detected the borers need to be killed or removed from the stem. The easiest way is to slit the stem above where the hole and frass is noticed and remove the insect or insects from the stem. Cover the stem area with soil to encourage new roots to form above the damaged area. This may save the plant, depending upon the severity of the damage. Dip your knife in a 10% solution of bleach before making the next cut in order to prevent transmitting wilt or rot organisms, which might be present.
2. Biological control. Borers can also be killed by injecting a solution of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) into the infested stem, using a disposable syringe or wood working glue injector. Follow the disinfecting and mounding procedures discussed above. This method can also be used as a preventive if injected into the stem 1-1/2 inches above ground level when the plants first begin to flower.
3. Promote rooting along stems. About every five leaves or so, place a small mound of soil over the stem to encourage rooting. Then if borers kill the lower part of the plant, the upper parts will have roots to recover.
4. Clean up plant debris. Plants killed by borer activity should be pulled up. Place these plants in a large, clear, plastic bag and leave it in the sun for a week or so. This will kill any borers still in the debris. In the fall, clean up and dispose of old plant debris. Leave the soil uncovered for a day or so to give birds a chance to clean up any insects on the ground.
5. Protect plants with a row cover. In subsequent years, early in the season, plants can be protected with floating row covers secured on all edges to prevent flying adults from laying eggs on the plants. The cover needs to be removed when the plants begin flowering.
6. Use chemical controls with caution. Properly timed chemical pesticides can be effective. Scout plants early and often, watching for the first signs of borer’s frass at entrance holes in the stems indicating egg laying has occurred. Two insecticide applications spaced 5 to 7 days apart will control the majority of newly hatched larvae before they enter the vines. Chemical controls are not effective once the borer is inside the stem. Sevin can be applied to crowns and runners when the plants begin to vine. Apply late in the day because Sevin is very toxic to bees that frequent vine crops and facilitate pollination. Bees carry grains of Sevin dust back to the hive where it can kill many bees.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Injury due to salt is most common on landscape plants growing adjacent to highways, streets, sidewalks, and driveways that are regularly salted during the winter for ice control. Most of the salt used for deicing purposes is sodium chloride, ordinary rock salt or table salt. On highways, the major problem to plants is caused by salt spray kicked up by fast moving traffic on wet, salted roads. The salt spray is deposited on adjacent plants causing dehydration of evergreen leaves. In the city, the major problem is salt runoff washing into the soil. Salt in the soil may be absorbed by the roots and cause direct toxic effects.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Salt spray causes bud death and twig dieback. Subsequent shoot growth at the branch base produces clusters of twigs known as "witches' brooms." Symptoms typically become evident in the spring. In evergreens and conifers, salt spray causes leaf browning or yellowing, needle tip flecking, and twig dieback. Salt in the soil is slower acting and may not affect plants for several years. Symptoms include an initial blue green cast to the foliage, marginal leaf burn or needle tip burn, reduction in leaf, flower and fruit size, premature fall coloration and defoliation, stunting, and a general lack of vigor. The symptoms often become evident in late summer or during periods of hot dry weather.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Reduce salt use. The most important method of preventing salt injury to plants is reducing the amount of salt used for deicing. Pure salt should never be applied. Salt should always be mixed with an abrasive such as sand, cinders, or ash. This combines the melting power of the salt with the grittiness of the abrasive so less total salt is needed. Commercial deicing products containing calcium chloride may be used instead of rock salt. These products will not damage the soil but will still injure plants, so they too should be mixed with abrasives and applied with the same precautions.
2. Apply salt carefully. Application should be limited to high risk locations such as high speed roads, intersections, hills, steps, and walkways. Avoid spilling or applying in heaps.
3. Leach salted soils. If salt has already entered the soil, water these areas heavily in the spring to help leach the salt out of the soil. This method, however, is only effective on well-drained soils. It is not effective on fine textured, compacted soils where water does not drain readily.
4. Protect plants. Plants may be protected from salt spray by placing materials such as plastic, burlap, plywood, or window screen on or in front of them. This provides a physical barrier that prevents salt spray from contacting the plant.
5. Avoid planting in drainageways or in areas where runoff collects. Salt spray damage can be avoided by planting trees and shrubs away from the spray drift zone, at least 50 feet from a highway or further if downwind. Plants vary in their sensitivity to salt. It should be emphasized that even tolerant plants are not immune to injury.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Salt spray causes bud death and twig dieback. Subsequent shoot growth at the branch base produces clusters of twigs known as "witches' brooms." Symptoms typically become evident in the spring. In evergreens and conifers, salt spray causes leaf browning or yellowing, needle tip flecking, and twig dieback. Salt in the soil is slower acting and may not affect plants for several years. Symptoms include an initial blue green cast to the foliage, marginal leaf burn or needle tip burn, reduction in leaf, flower and fruit size, premature fall coloration and defoliation, stunting, and a general lack of vigor. The symptoms often become evident in late summer or during periods of hot dry weather.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Reduce salt use. The most important method of preventing salt injury to plants is reducing the amount of salt used for deicing. Pure salt should never be applied. Salt should always be mixed with an abrasive such as sand, cinders, or ash. This combines the melting power of the salt with the grittiness of the abrasive so less total salt is needed. Commercial deicing products containing calcium chloride may be used instead of rock salt. These products will not damage the soil but will still injure plants, so they too should be mixed with abrasives and applied with the same precautions.
2. Apply salt carefully. Application should be limited to high risk locations such as high speed roads, intersections, hills, steps, and walkways. Avoid spilling or applying in heaps.
3. Leach salted soils. If salt has already entered the soil, water these areas heavily in the spring to help leach the salt out of the soil. This method, however, is only effective on well-drained soils. It is not effective on fine textured, compacted soils where water does not drain readily.
4. Protect plants. Plants may be protected from salt spray by placing materials such as plastic, burlap, plywood, or window screen on or in front of them. This provides a physical barrier that prevents salt spray from contacting the plant.
5. Avoid planting in drainageways or in areas where runoff collects. Salt spray damage can be avoided by planting trees and shrubs away from the spray drift zone, at least 50 feet from a highway or further if downwind. Plants vary in their sensitivity to salt. It should be emphasized that even tolerant plants are not immune to injury.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Mosses are small, primitive plants that have reduced leaves and a mass of fine, thread-like stems. A mild, wet winter combined with turfgrass which is thin and weak offers an opportunity for moss and/or algae growth.
Mosses are not parasitic on turfgrass. They produce their own food, grow where grass will not, and form a soft mat of growth, which makes a barrier, preventing grass from growing.
Shady conditions and infertile and/or compacted, poorly drained soil encourage moss growth.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Moss in the lawn is quite visible and can be annoying. Large areas void of grass may be covered by moss. These small primitive plants have reduced leaves and reproduce by spores, not seeds.
Life Cycle
Moss prefers to grow and become established in the winter with growth peaking in early, wet springs. If grass is established in the fall, moss will fail to compete for space in which to grow. This presents the best strategy for avoiding moss development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Cultural practices to inhibit moss growth and stimulate growth of desirable healthy lawn grass.
A. Test soil for pH and nutrient content. If deficient in nutrients, follow recommendations of soil test. Fertilize with nitrogen just before the growth cycle.
B. Improve drainage. In moist areas with poor drainage, add soil or contour the area to move water away from low lying areas.
C. Increase light penetration. Trim lower branches of shade trees and thin to improve light penetration to the soil surface and improve air circulation. A ground cover may be used in lieu of grass if shade is too intense.
D. Loosen compacted soils. Compacted soil should be tilled or core aerated to reduce compaction. Loosening the top 2 to 4 inches of soil will help. Cultivation breaks up the algae crust or moss mats.
2. Manual removal. Remove as much of the moss as possible by raking or dethatching.
3. Treatment.Treat the mossy areas with iron compounds; liquid ferric sulfate is the most effective. Fertilizers with iron compounds also work if very fine, near-dust formulations are used. Moss killers containing zinc sulfate will kill the moss but can also damage grass. Buy only products which state "for controlling moss in lawns" as some are for removal of moss in sidewalks and roofs and can be harmful to other plants. Lime and copper sulfate are ineffective in killing moss.
4. Turf selection. In shaded, well-drained soil, plant fine fescues. For shaded, moist areas, plant rough bluegrass. Neither grass, however, will survive extremely heavy shade or soil saturated for long periods.
5. Watering. Keep grass in good condition in the summer by watering deeply to establish deep roots. If an automatic watering system is used, water plentifully once or twice a week (1 inch per watering).
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1.B, 1.C, 1.D, 2, 4, and 5 are strictly organic approaches. Strategy 1.A could be considered an organic approach if an organic fertilizer is used.
Mosses are not parasitic on turfgrass. They produce their own food, grow where grass will not, and form a soft mat of growth, which makes a barrier, preventing grass from growing.
Shady conditions and infertile and/or compacted, poorly drained soil encourage moss growth.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Moss in the lawn is quite visible and can be annoying. Large areas void of grass may be covered by moss. These small primitive plants have reduced leaves and reproduce by spores, not seeds.
Life Cycle
Moss prefers to grow and become established in the winter with growth peaking in early, wet springs. If grass is established in the fall, moss will fail to compete for space in which to grow. This presents the best strategy for avoiding moss development.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Cultural practices to inhibit moss growth and stimulate growth of desirable healthy lawn grass.
A. Test soil for pH and nutrient content. If deficient in nutrients, follow recommendations of soil test. Fertilize with nitrogen just before the growth cycle.
B. Improve drainage. In moist areas with poor drainage, add soil or contour the area to move water away from low lying areas.
C. Increase light penetration. Trim lower branches of shade trees and thin to improve light penetration to the soil surface and improve air circulation. A ground cover may be used in lieu of grass if shade is too intense.
D. Loosen compacted soils. Compacted soil should be tilled or core aerated to reduce compaction. Loosening the top 2 to 4 inches of soil will help. Cultivation breaks up the algae crust or moss mats.
2. Manual removal. Remove as much of the moss as possible by raking or dethatching.
3. Treatment.Treat the mossy areas with iron compounds; liquid ferric sulfate is the most effective. Fertilizers with iron compounds also work if very fine, near-dust formulations are used. Moss killers containing zinc sulfate will kill the moss but can also damage grass. Buy only products which state "for controlling moss in lawns" as some are for removal of moss in sidewalks and roofs and can be harmful to other plants. Lime and copper sulfate are ineffective in killing moss.
4. Turf selection. In shaded, well-drained soil, plant fine fescues. For shaded, moist areas, plant rough bluegrass. Neither grass, however, will survive extremely heavy shade or soil saturated for long periods.
5. Watering. Keep grass in good condition in the summer by watering deeply to establish deep roots. If an automatic watering system is used, water plentifully once or twice a week (1 inch per watering).
Organic Strategies
Strategies 1.B, 1.C, 1.D, 2, 4, and 5 are strictly organic approaches. Strategy 1.A could be considered an organic approach if an organic fertilizer is used.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月17日
Annual winter weeds germinate in the fall and winter and grow actively in spring. Gardeners are often surprised how quickly these weeds can seemingly pop up overnight in their yards and gardens, being unaware that they may have been growing slowly all winter long. After they flower in spring they die and disappear for the summer only to return in fall or winter when new seeds germinate.
Some of the more common annual winter weeds in the Midwest are henbit, deadnettle, common chickweed, annual bluegrass, wild mustards, prickly lettuce, Persian speedwell, horseweed, cheatgrass and rabbitfoot clover. Some people do not consider these plants as weeds, as some can also be used for food or have been used for medicinal purposes.
Deadnettle and Henbit
Deadnettle (Lamium purpureum) and henbit (Lamium amplexicaule) are often confused. These winter weeds are both in the mint family and have square stems with opposite leaves. Both plants have pink/purple flowers and can reach 16 inches high but more commonly reach only about 6 inches high in the Midwest. Henbit has circular or rounded leaves with rounded teeth on the leaf margin. Deadnettle has triangular shaped leaves and less deeply lobed than henbit and at times the upper leaves are purple or red. Both plants are decumbent in youth but more upright with age. Flowers appear in whorls in the leaf axis of upper leaves from March to May and are tube-like with 2 lips.
Common Chickweed
Common chickweed (Stellaria media) is a winter annual with a shallow fibrous root which grows in moist, cool shaded areas. The bright green leaves are about ½ inch long, smooth, pointed at the tip, and elliptic in shape. They have opposite branching, slender, creeping stems which root at the nodes. The white flowers of chickweed are ½ inch in diameter and star-shaped with five deeply notched petals. Flowering occurs from early spring to fall. Chickweed reproduces by seed and rooting at the nodes on prostrate stems. The fruit contains many seeds within a dry capsule which splits when mature, shaking out the seeds onto the soil. Seeds will germinate at any time of the year but particularly in spring and autumn. Seeds are dispersed in mud on footwear and tires as well as by animals. Chickweed is found in turfgrass as well as nursery, cultivated horticultural, and agricultural crops. It is a host of several damaging virus diseases of crop plants which can be carried in the chickweed seeds.
Annual Bluegrass
Annual bluegrass (Poa annua) is one of the most common weeds in the United States. It is a native of Europe. Golf courses consider it a particular problem. It is identified by its boat-shaped leaf tips which curve up like the bow of a boat. Annual bluegrass is upright growing (growing 3-12" high) and can be noticed by its pale green spring appearance. It can produce 100 seeds in 8 weeks. It germinates when the temperature falls below 70 degrees and throughout the winter. It usually dies in the summer.
Prickly Lettuce
Prickly lettuce (Lactuca serriola) is in the aster family. It can grow up to 5’ tall. Sometimes this winter weed can be a biennial. It has creamy yellow aster-like flowers. Butterfly larvae feed on this plant. Alternate leaves branch off the main stem. There is a prominent midvein on each leaf which contains a row of spines on the bottom surface. Several edible lettuces, such as crisphead, butterhead, cos, Romaine, loose leaf or bunching, and stem lettuce or celtuce were all derived from this species.
Persian speedwell
Persian speedwell (Veronica persica) is a winter annual with slender, weak stems that grow along the ground but turn up at the tips. In shaded areas it tends to grow more upright. The stems are covered with finely pointed, flattened hairs. The hairy leaf blades are oval to roundish with rounded teeth around the edges. The lower leaves are arranged oppositely and occur on petioles, but the upper leaves occur on the more erect flowering stems, are arranged alternately, and do not have petioles. The flowers occur singly on long, slender flower stalks which arise from the leaf axils. The small flowers are usually light blue in color with darker blue lines and a pale blue to white center. Prior to flowering, the speedwells are often misidentified as ground ivy, henbit, or purple deadnettle. However, ground ivy does not have hairy leaves and both henbit and purple deadnettle have leaves that are arranged oppositely along the flowering stem. Speedwell is primarily a weed of lawns, turfgrass, landscapes, nurseries, and winter small grains.
Horseweed
Horseweed or mare's tail (Conya canadensis) can grow to 6 1/2 ’ tall. A mature plant has alternate leaves that have no petiole. Young leaves are egg-shaped with toothed margins but mature leaves are 3-4 inches long, hairy, and oblanceolate in shape (broader and rounded at the apex, and tapering at the base.) Plant has a taproot. Small inconspicuous flower heads are at the top of the central stem. Flowers are about 1/4 inch in diameter, with white or slightly pink ray flowers. This is a composite flower and there are many tiny disk flowers in the flower head (like daisies and coneflowers). In the early stages, this plant resembles shepherd’s purse or Virginia pepperweed. The fruit (or seed) is a 1/16 inch long achene that does not split open when it is ripe. It tapers from the apex with many small bristles that aid in wind dispersal. This plant is susceptible to aster yellows.
Cheatgrass
Cheatgrass (Bromus tectorum) is a winter annual that has a fine feathery appearance, with slender light-green stems drooping at the tips where the seeds form. Seed spikelets and their bristles can be 2 inches long. Mature grass grows to 30 inches and turns first purple, and then brown, as it dries. Cheatgrass occurs throughout most of the United States and is on state noxious weed lists in 43 states. It grows on rangelands, pastures, prairies, fields, eroded sites and roadsides. Cheatgrass can alter ecosystems by maintaining dominance for years on sites where native vegetation has been eliminated or severely reduced due to grazing, cultivation, or fire. Moreover, it increases the frequency and timing of wildfires. At maturity the sharp-pointed bristly sections can injure wildlife species by working into the nose, ears, mouth, or eyes. Spikelets can also cling to clothing.
Rabbitfoot Clover
Rabbitfoot clover (Trifolium arvense) is in the pea family. This winter weed has a multi-branched growth habit and is 4-16 inches tall. It came from Eurasia and is naturalized now. Both stems and leaves are densely hairy. Leaves consist of 3 narrow leaflets with minute teeth-like projections at the tip. Flowers are small and pink to purple in color. They are clustered in grayish soft and silky cylinder-shaped heads. It flowers in the spring, and reproduces by seed. Rabbitfoot clover is found in the Southeast United States, west to Louisiana and north to Missouri. Rabbitfoot clover contributes nitrogen to the soil, as do other clovers, but it grows in unimproved sandy soils in semi-arid grasslands.
Bedstraw
Bedstraw (Galium aparine) is a winter annual with square stems and short, downward pointing hooks on the stem corners. The stems are weakly branched, prostrate on the ground or climbing on other plants producing a tangled mass. The rough hairy leaves grow in whorls of six to eight. The tiny white flowers have four-lobed pointed petals on long flower stalks. Bedstraw is found in moist shady areas, thickets, valleys, roadsides, waste ground, under trees, and clearings. The hooked spines of the stems, leaves and seeds cling to just about everything and are difficult to remove. The burr-like seeds are produced in pairs and are covered with hooked hairs. This clinging characteristic minimized matting when bedstraw was used as a mattress filling.
Shepherd's Purse and other mustards
Shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris) is a winter annual with erect stems that grow 3 to 18 inches tall from a basal rosette quite similar to that of a dandelion. The rosette grows to be 4 to 8 inches in diameter. Shepherd’s purse has alternate leaves with the lower leaves more deeply lobed than the upper leaves. The flowers are small and white, appearing in clusters at the top of the stalk from early spring to early winter. Each flower has four petals and develops into a heart-shaped or triangular seedpod which, when the pod dries, splits in half releasing the mature seeds. The seedpods are supposed to resemble the purses of ancient shepherds. It does best in sunny, rich, disturbed soil, but it will also grow in partly shaded, extremely poor soils.. It can be found in flowerbeds, lawns, sidewalk cracks and along the edges of sidewalks and paths.
Integrated Pest Mangement Strategies
1. Encourage grass. Keep lawn areas thick and mulch flowerbeds to help prevent weed seeds from germinating.
2. Removal. Dig or pull the weeds in the winter or spring before they flower and set seed for the next year.
3. Good sanitation. Use good cultural and sanitation practices to prevent the spread of weeds. Small weed seeds can be spread by machines, clothing, pets, and by contaminated seed.
4. Use chemical herbicides. For established weeds the best time to apply herbicides is early spring when the weeds are actively growing but before they go to seed. Herbicides containing Dicamba and/or MCPA or MCPP are more effective than 2,4-D alone. After you have identified the weed you have, check product labels or resource materials to see which herbicides are most effective for that weed or combination of weeds. Use herbicides with caution around desirable plants that may be damaged. Read label directions and cautions carefully.
5. Use pre-emergent herbicide. To prevent germination of the seeds of these winter annuals, apply a pre-emergent herbicide, such as, Gallery in late summer or early fall before the weed seeds have germinated.
Some of the more common annual winter weeds in the Midwest are henbit, deadnettle, common chickweed, annual bluegrass, wild mustards, prickly lettuce, Persian speedwell, horseweed, cheatgrass and rabbitfoot clover. Some people do not consider these plants as weeds, as some can also be used for food or have been used for medicinal purposes.
Deadnettle and Henbit
Deadnettle (Lamium purpureum) and henbit (Lamium amplexicaule) are often confused. These winter weeds are both in the mint family and have square stems with opposite leaves. Both plants have pink/purple flowers and can reach 16 inches high but more commonly reach only about 6 inches high in the Midwest. Henbit has circular or rounded leaves with rounded teeth on the leaf margin. Deadnettle has triangular shaped leaves and less deeply lobed than henbit and at times the upper leaves are purple or red. Both plants are decumbent in youth but more upright with age. Flowers appear in whorls in the leaf axis of upper leaves from March to May and are tube-like with 2 lips.
Common Chickweed
Common chickweed (Stellaria media) is a winter annual with a shallow fibrous root which grows in moist, cool shaded areas. The bright green leaves are about ½ inch long, smooth, pointed at the tip, and elliptic in shape. They have opposite branching, slender, creeping stems which root at the nodes. The white flowers of chickweed are ½ inch in diameter and star-shaped with five deeply notched petals. Flowering occurs from early spring to fall. Chickweed reproduces by seed and rooting at the nodes on prostrate stems. The fruit contains many seeds within a dry capsule which splits when mature, shaking out the seeds onto the soil. Seeds will germinate at any time of the year but particularly in spring and autumn. Seeds are dispersed in mud on footwear and tires as well as by animals. Chickweed is found in turfgrass as well as nursery, cultivated horticultural, and agricultural crops. It is a host of several damaging virus diseases of crop plants which can be carried in the chickweed seeds.
Annual Bluegrass
Annual bluegrass (Poa annua) is one of the most common weeds in the United States. It is a native of Europe. Golf courses consider it a particular problem. It is identified by its boat-shaped leaf tips which curve up like the bow of a boat. Annual bluegrass is upright growing (growing 3-12" high) and can be noticed by its pale green spring appearance. It can produce 100 seeds in 8 weeks. It germinates when the temperature falls below 70 degrees and throughout the winter. It usually dies in the summer.
Prickly Lettuce
Prickly lettuce (Lactuca serriola) is in the aster family. It can grow up to 5’ tall. Sometimes this winter weed can be a biennial. It has creamy yellow aster-like flowers. Butterfly larvae feed on this plant. Alternate leaves branch off the main stem. There is a prominent midvein on each leaf which contains a row of spines on the bottom surface. Several edible lettuces, such as crisphead, butterhead, cos, Romaine, loose leaf or bunching, and stem lettuce or celtuce were all derived from this species.
Persian speedwell
Persian speedwell (Veronica persica) is a winter annual with slender, weak stems that grow along the ground but turn up at the tips. In shaded areas it tends to grow more upright. The stems are covered with finely pointed, flattened hairs. The hairy leaf blades are oval to roundish with rounded teeth around the edges. The lower leaves are arranged oppositely and occur on petioles, but the upper leaves occur on the more erect flowering stems, are arranged alternately, and do not have petioles. The flowers occur singly on long, slender flower stalks which arise from the leaf axils. The small flowers are usually light blue in color with darker blue lines and a pale blue to white center. Prior to flowering, the speedwells are often misidentified as ground ivy, henbit, or purple deadnettle. However, ground ivy does not have hairy leaves and both henbit and purple deadnettle have leaves that are arranged oppositely along the flowering stem. Speedwell is primarily a weed of lawns, turfgrass, landscapes, nurseries, and winter small grains.
Horseweed
Horseweed or mare's tail (Conya canadensis) can grow to 6 1/2 ’ tall. A mature plant has alternate leaves that have no petiole. Young leaves are egg-shaped with toothed margins but mature leaves are 3-4 inches long, hairy, and oblanceolate in shape (broader and rounded at the apex, and tapering at the base.) Plant has a taproot. Small inconspicuous flower heads are at the top of the central stem. Flowers are about 1/4 inch in diameter, with white or slightly pink ray flowers. This is a composite flower and there are many tiny disk flowers in the flower head (like daisies and coneflowers). In the early stages, this plant resembles shepherd’s purse or Virginia pepperweed. The fruit (or seed) is a 1/16 inch long achene that does not split open when it is ripe. It tapers from the apex with many small bristles that aid in wind dispersal. This plant is susceptible to aster yellows.
Cheatgrass
Cheatgrass (Bromus tectorum) is a winter annual that has a fine feathery appearance, with slender light-green stems drooping at the tips where the seeds form. Seed spikelets and their bristles can be 2 inches long. Mature grass grows to 30 inches and turns first purple, and then brown, as it dries. Cheatgrass occurs throughout most of the United States and is on state noxious weed lists in 43 states. It grows on rangelands, pastures, prairies, fields, eroded sites and roadsides. Cheatgrass can alter ecosystems by maintaining dominance for years on sites where native vegetation has been eliminated or severely reduced due to grazing, cultivation, or fire. Moreover, it increases the frequency and timing of wildfires. At maturity the sharp-pointed bristly sections can injure wildlife species by working into the nose, ears, mouth, or eyes. Spikelets can also cling to clothing.
Rabbitfoot Clover
Rabbitfoot clover (Trifolium arvense) is in the pea family. This winter weed has a multi-branched growth habit and is 4-16 inches tall. It came from Eurasia and is naturalized now. Both stems and leaves are densely hairy. Leaves consist of 3 narrow leaflets with minute teeth-like projections at the tip. Flowers are small and pink to purple in color. They are clustered in grayish soft and silky cylinder-shaped heads. It flowers in the spring, and reproduces by seed. Rabbitfoot clover is found in the Southeast United States, west to Louisiana and north to Missouri. Rabbitfoot clover contributes nitrogen to the soil, as do other clovers, but it grows in unimproved sandy soils in semi-arid grasslands.
Bedstraw
Bedstraw (Galium aparine) is a winter annual with square stems and short, downward pointing hooks on the stem corners. The stems are weakly branched, prostrate on the ground or climbing on other plants producing a tangled mass. The rough hairy leaves grow in whorls of six to eight. The tiny white flowers have four-lobed pointed petals on long flower stalks. Bedstraw is found in moist shady areas, thickets, valleys, roadsides, waste ground, under trees, and clearings. The hooked spines of the stems, leaves and seeds cling to just about everything and are difficult to remove. The burr-like seeds are produced in pairs and are covered with hooked hairs. This clinging characteristic minimized matting when bedstraw was used as a mattress filling.
Shepherd's Purse and other mustards
Shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris) is a winter annual with erect stems that grow 3 to 18 inches tall from a basal rosette quite similar to that of a dandelion. The rosette grows to be 4 to 8 inches in diameter. Shepherd’s purse has alternate leaves with the lower leaves more deeply lobed than the upper leaves. The flowers are small and white, appearing in clusters at the top of the stalk from early spring to early winter. Each flower has four petals and develops into a heart-shaped or triangular seedpod which, when the pod dries, splits in half releasing the mature seeds. The seedpods are supposed to resemble the purses of ancient shepherds. It does best in sunny, rich, disturbed soil, but it will also grow in partly shaded, extremely poor soils.. It can be found in flowerbeds, lawns, sidewalk cracks and along the edges of sidewalks and paths.
Integrated Pest Mangement Strategies
1. Encourage grass. Keep lawn areas thick and mulch flowerbeds to help prevent weed seeds from germinating.
2. Removal. Dig or pull the weeds in the winter or spring before they flower and set seed for the next year.
3. Good sanitation. Use good cultural and sanitation practices to prevent the spread of weeds. Small weed seeds can be spread by machines, clothing, pets, and by contaminated seed.
4. Use chemical herbicides. For established weeds the best time to apply herbicides is early spring when the weeds are actively growing but before they go to seed. Herbicides containing Dicamba and/or MCPA or MCPP are more effective than 2,4-D alone. After you have identified the weed you have, check product labels or resource materials to see which herbicides are most effective for that weed or combination of weeds. Use herbicides with caution around desirable plants that may be damaged. Read label directions and cautions carefully.
5. Use pre-emergent herbicide. To prevent germination of the seeds of these winter annuals, apply a pre-emergent herbicide, such as, Gallery in late summer or early fall before the weed seeds have germinated.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月16日
Frost heaving can cause plants to rise up out of the ground as these hens and chicks (Sempervivum) did.
Cold-hardy perennials can be damaged by winter weather. Frost heaving is the usual culprit. Wide temperature fluctuations, with repeated cycles of freezing and thawing, cause the water in the soil to expand and contract. These repeated expansions and contractions push and turn plants and their roots. The result is heaving of the crowns. They are pushed up out of the soil breaking some roots and exposing other roots above soil level. The elevated crowns and roots are exposed to cold temperatures and drying winds. They may be seriously damaged, stunted or killed.
Perennials with shallow root systems (strawberries, heuchera, scabiosa, leucanthemum, galliardia, bergenia) or those that have been planted recently and have not had time to establish adequate root systems are prone to frost heaving.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Controlling frost heaving starts with well drained planting beds. Both surface and subsurface drainage is essential to prevent water from pooling in planted beds. Soggy ground will freeze and thaw repeatedly and susceptible plants will heave. The addition of organic material when the beds are prepared helps loosen soil and promotes good soil drainage.
2. Plant early in the fall. Planting perennials at least 6 weeks before the first autumn frost date gives the plants time to establish adequate root systems to anchor themselves.
3. Mulch. Mulching with organic material (compost, ground leaves, straw, or pine needles) will help moderate soil temperatures reducing heaving of root systems. The mulch should be applied after a hard frost, and at a depth of 4 inches. Excess mulch can lead to soggy ground and rodent infestations. Avoid burying the plant’s crown as the mulch is put down.
4. Monitor the plants. Keep a careful eye on susceptible plants. The mulch can hide an exposed, heaved crown. When a problem is found, cover the exposed roots with a layer of soil and re-apply mulch.
Cold-hardy perennials can be damaged by winter weather. Frost heaving is the usual culprit. Wide temperature fluctuations, with repeated cycles of freezing and thawing, cause the water in the soil to expand and contract. These repeated expansions and contractions push and turn plants and their roots. The result is heaving of the crowns. They are pushed up out of the soil breaking some roots and exposing other roots above soil level. The elevated crowns and roots are exposed to cold temperatures and drying winds. They may be seriously damaged, stunted or killed.
Perennials with shallow root systems (strawberries, heuchera, scabiosa, leucanthemum, galliardia, bergenia) or those that have been planted recently and have not had time to establish adequate root systems are prone to frost heaving.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Controlling frost heaving starts with well drained planting beds. Both surface and subsurface drainage is essential to prevent water from pooling in planted beds. Soggy ground will freeze and thaw repeatedly and susceptible plants will heave. The addition of organic material when the beds are prepared helps loosen soil and promotes good soil drainage.
2. Plant early in the fall. Planting perennials at least 6 weeks before the first autumn frost date gives the plants time to establish adequate root systems to anchor themselves.
3. Mulch. Mulching with organic material (compost, ground leaves, straw, or pine needles) will help moderate soil temperatures reducing heaving of root systems. The mulch should be applied after a hard frost, and at a depth of 4 inches. Excess mulch can lead to soggy ground and rodent infestations. Avoid burying the plant’s crown as the mulch is put down.
4. Monitor the plants. Keep a careful eye on susceptible plants. The mulch can hide an exposed, heaved crown. When a problem is found, cover the exposed roots with a layer of soil and re-apply mulch.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
The river birch is a popular tree for river banks and wet parts of the garden. Its attractive bark is especially striking in the winter when the rest of the tree is bare. Keep reading to learn more river birch tree facts, such as river birch tree care and effectively using river birch trees in the landscape of your home.
River Birch Tree Facts
River birch trees (Betula nigra) are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. They are more heat tolerant than most of their birch relatives, making them a good choice in many parts of the southern U.S.
They grow naturally in wet environments along river and stream banks, so they are used to very moist soil. They will tolerate soil that is acidic, neutral, or alkaline, as well as well or poorly drained. Though they do best in moist conditions, they tolerate drier soil better than other birch trees do. These trees prefer full sun but will tolerate partial shade. They tend to grow between 40 and 70 feet in height.
Growing River Birch Trees in the Landscape
In nature, you will most likely find a river birch tree growing near water. Because of its affinity for wet, heavy soil, planting a river birch tree can fill in spaces where nothing else seems to grow. If you have water on your property, consider lining it with river birch trees. If you don’t, planting a river birch tree or two in your yard will make for an attractive specimen and shade tree. Surround the tree with heavy mulch to help keep the roots wet and cool.
River birch trees can be grown direct from seed or planted as saplings. When seeds or saplings are starting out, it’s important to control weed competition nearby either with weed fabric or select herbicidal spraying.
River Birch Tree Facts
River birch trees (Betula nigra) are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. They are more heat tolerant than most of their birch relatives, making them a good choice in many parts of the southern U.S.
They grow naturally in wet environments along river and stream banks, so they are used to very moist soil. They will tolerate soil that is acidic, neutral, or alkaline, as well as well or poorly drained. Though they do best in moist conditions, they tolerate drier soil better than other birch trees do. These trees prefer full sun but will tolerate partial shade. They tend to grow between 40 and 70 feet in height.
Growing River Birch Trees in the Landscape
In nature, you will most likely find a river birch tree growing near water. Because of its affinity for wet, heavy soil, planting a river birch tree can fill in spaces where nothing else seems to grow. If you have water on your property, consider lining it with river birch trees. If you don’t, planting a river birch tree or two in your yard will make for an attractive specimen and shade tree. Surround the tree with heavy mulch to help keep the roots wet and cool.
River birch trees can be grown direct from seed or planted as saplings. When seeds or saplings are starting out, it’s important to control weed competition nearby either with weed fabric or select herbicidal spraying.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Trees can be injured by winter weather. This is especially true for needled trees since the needles stay on the trees all winter. If you have arborvitae in your yard and you live in a cold climate, you have probably seen that they occasionally suffer winter damage. Read on for information about winter injury on arborvitae bushes.
Winter Damage to Arborvitae
Winter injury on arborvitae bushes is not uncommon. Desiccation, or drying out, is one important cause of winter damage to arborvitae. The arborvitae dry out when the needles lose water faster than they can take it up. Arborvitae needles transpire moisture even in winter, and uptake water from the ground to replace the lost moisture. When the ground freezes below the root system, it cuts off the water supply.
Why are My Arborvitae Turning Brown?
Desiccation can lead to arborvitae winter burn. If the foliage is buried under snow, it is protected. But unprotected needles will suffer from winter burn, which turns them brown, gold or even white, particularly on the south, southwest, and windward sides of plants. The actual discoloration, however, can be caused by a number of factors in addition to desiccation and can be fairly dramatic. These include:
strong wind
bright sun
deep, hard frost
biting cold
salt used on sidewalks and roadways
If the winter burn is severe, the entire arborvitae may brown and die. You may notice symptoms as the damage is occurring, but often the burn damage looks even worse later, as temperatures rise in early spring. It’s best not to make any rapid decisions about whether or not you can save the tree. Simply wait for spring and you can easily tell whether the arborvitae is alive.
Arborvitae Winter Care
You can prevent desiccation by watering the ground thoroughly all through the growing season, right up through autumn. Give the shrubs more water on warm days during the winter. Arborvitae winter care also includes a thick layer of mulch to protect roots. Use up to 4 inches.
In addition to mulch, you may need to wrap evergreens in burlap or other material for winter protection if your winters are particularly severe. If you do, don’t wrap too tight or cover the plants too completely. Be sure to give the trees room to breathe and exposure to natural light.
Winter Damage to Arborvitae
Winter injury on arborvitae bushes is not uncommon. Desiccation, or drying out, is one important cause of winter damage to arborvitae. The arborvitae dry out when the needles lose water faster than they can take it up. Arborvitae needles transpire moisture even in winter, and uptake water from the ground to replace the lost moisture. When the ground freezes below the root system, it cuts off the water supply.
Why are My Arborvitae Turning Brown?
Desiccation can lead to arborvitae winter burn. If the foliage is buried under snow, it is protected. But unprotected needles will suffer from winter burn, which turns them brown, gold or even white, particularly on the south, southwest, and windward sides of plants. The actual discoloration, however, can be caused by a number of factors in addition to desiccation and can be fairly dramatic. These include:
strong wind
bright sun
deep, hard frost
biting cold
salt used on sidewalks and roadways
If the winter burn is severe, the entire arborvitae may brown and die. You may notice symptoms as the damage is occurring, but often the burn damage looks even worse later, as temperatures rise in early spring. It’s best not to make any rapid decisions about whether or not you can save the tree. Simply wait for spring and you can easily tell whether the arborvitae is alive.
Arborvitae Winter Care
You can prevent desiccation by watering the ground thoroughly all through the growing season, right up through autumn. Give the shrubs more water on warm days during the winter. Arborvitae winter care also includes a thick layer of mulch to protect roots. Use up to 4 inches.
In addition to mulch, you may need to wrap evergreens in burlap or other material for winter protection if your winters are particularly severe. If you do, don’t wrap too tight or cover the plants too completely. Be sure to give the trees room to breathe and exposure to natural light.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Also known as curly willow or tortured willow, corkscrew willow (Salix matsudana ‘Tortusa’) is easy to identify by its long, graceful leaves and curly, contorted branches, which become especially noticeable during the winter. Unfortunately, although corkscrew willow is a fast-growing tree, it isn’t long lived and tends to be susceptible to breakage and insect problems. In spite of its downfalls, growing a curly willow tree is a worthy endeavor, and with proper care, you’ll enjoy this fascinating tree for several years. Keep reading and learn more about how to grow corkscrew willow trees.
Curly Willow Growing Conditions
Before growing this tree, you should know where to plant curly willow. Corkscrew willow is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. The tree develops a short root system that remains near the surface of the soil, so it should be planted a safe distance from buildings, driveways, sidewalks and sewer lines. Plant curly willow anytime during spring or summer. Curly willow isn’t fussy about soil and adapts to clay, loam or sand. Similarly, it tolerates either sun or partial shade. However, ideal conditions for this tree are well-drained, moist soil and full sunlight.
Corkscrew Willow Care
For the most part, corkscrew willow care is minimal, but the tree likes moisture. Water regularly during the first year, then water generously during periods of hot, dry weather. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch will help keep the soil moist, helps keep weeds in check, and protect the trunk from damage by weed trimmers and lawnmowers. However, leave a few inches of bare ground around the base of the tree, as mulch that piles up against the trunk can attract a variety of pests. Corkscrew willow generally requires no fertilizer, but if growth appears weak, you can apply a cup of balanced dry fertilizer around the tree every spring, then water deeply. If your tree is near a fertilized lawn, it probably already receives adequate nutrients.
Prune corkscrew willow regularly to allow air and sunlight to enter the center of the tree, as a healthier tree free of damaged or dead branches is less prone to insect damage. However, problems to watch for include pests such as aphids, borers, gypsy moths and willow beetles. The tree is relatively disease-resistant, although it is susceptible to powdery mildew and leaf spot. The diseases tend to be relatively mild and usually don’t require treatment.
Curly Willow Growing Conditions
Before growing this tree, you should know where to plant curly willow. Corkscrew willow is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. The tree develops a short root system that remains near the surface of the soil, so it should be planted a safe distance from buildings, driveways, sidewalks and sewer lines. Plant curly willow anytime during spring or summer. Curly willow isn’t fussy about soil and adapts to clay, loam or sand. Similarly, it tolerates either sun or partial shade. However, ideal conditions for this tree are well-drained, moist soil and full sunlight.
Corkscrew Willow Care
For the most part, corkscrew willow care is minimal, but the tree likes moisture. Water regularly during the first year, then water generously during periods of hot, dry weather. A 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch will help keep the soil moist, helps keep weeds in check, and protect the trunk from damage by weed trimmers and lawnmowers. However, leave a few inches of bare ground around the base of the tree, as mulch that piles up against the trunk can attract a variety of pests. Corkscrew willow generally requires no fertilizer, but if growth appears weak, you can apply a cup of balanced dry fertilizer around the tree every spring, then water deeply. If your tree is near a fertilized lawn, it probably already receives adequate nutrients.
Prune corkscrew willow regularly to allow air and sunlight to enter the center of the tree, as a healthier tree free of damaged or dead branches is less prone to insect damage. However, problems to watch for include pests such as aphids, borers, gypsy moths and willow beetles. The tree is relatively disease-resistant, although it is susceptible to powdery mildew and leaf spot. The diseases tend to be relatively mild and usually don’t require treatment.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
The pindo palm (Butia capitata) is a thick, slow growing palm tree that is popular in zones 8 through 11, where it’s winter hardy. Palm trees come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and species, and it’s not always clear how much each tree needs to be pruned, if at all. Keep reading to learn more about how and when to prune a pindo palm tree.
Do I Prune a Pindo Palm?
Do pindo palms need to be pruned? If you are lucky enough to have a pindo palm growing in your garden, you might be tempted to cut it back. As the palm grows, it does have a tendency to get a little ragged looking. Each year the tree will produce eight new leaves. The leaves actually consist of a 4 foot (1.2 m.) long stem that’s covered in spines and 10 inch (25 cm.) long leaves that grow out of it in opposite directions. As these branches of leaves age, they curl down toward the trunk of the tree. Eventually, the older leaves will yellow and finally brown. While it may be tempting, you should not cut back the leaves unless they are completely dead, and even then you need to be careful about it.
How to Prune a Pindo Palm
Cutting a pindo palm back should only be done if the leaves are completely brown. Even then, make sure not to cut them down flush with the trunk. The rough appearance of a pindo palm’s trunk is actually made up of the stubs of dead leaves. Make sure to leave several inches of stem or you risk opening up the tree to infection.
One case in which cutting a pindo palm back is completely okay is when the tree produces flowers. If left in place, the flowers will give way to fruit that, while edible, is often a nuisance when it drops. You can cut the faded flower stalks off to avoid the trouble of fruit litter.
Do I Prune a Pindo Palm?
Do pindo palms need to be pruned? If you are lucky enough to have a pindo palm growing in your garden, you might be tempted to cut it back. As the palm grows, it does have a tendency to get a little ragged looking. Each year the tree will produce eight new leaves. The leaves actually consist of a 4 foot (1.2 m.) long stem that’s covered in spines and 10 inch (25 cm.) long leaves that grow out of it in opposite directions. As these branches of leaves age, they curl down toward the trunk of the tree. Eventually, the older leaves will yellow and finally brown. While it may be tempting, you should not cut back the leaves unless they are completely dead, and even then you need to be careful about it.
How to Prune a Pindo Palm
Cutting a pindo palm back should only be done if the leaves are completely brown. Even then, make sure not to cut them down flush with the trunk. The rough appearance of a pindo palm’s trunk is actually made up of the stubs of dead leaves. Make sure to leave several inches of stem or you risk opening up the tree to infection.
One case in which cutting a pindo palm back is completely okay is when the tree produces flowers. If left in place, the flowers will give way to fruit that, while edible, is often a nuisance when it drops. You can cut the faded flower stalks off to avoid the trouble of fruit litter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Palm trees don’t just make an appearance in Hollywood. Different varieties can be grown around the United States, even places where snow is a regular winter feature. Snow and freezing temps aren’t exactly a palm trees milieu, so what kind of winter protection must you provide for palms?
Winter Palm Tree Care
Frost and freezing temperatures damage the tissue of plants, in general weakening them and leaving them susceptible to diseases. Cold snaps, in particular, are of concern. Winterizing your palm tree to protect it from cold damage may be of paramount importance, especially depending on your region. Winter palm tree care usually requires wrapping palm trees in winter. The question is how to wrap the palm tree for winter and with what?
How to Wrap Palm Trees for Winter
If your palm is small, you can cover it with a box or blanket and weigh it down. Don’t leave the cover on for longer than 5 days. You can also cover a small palm with straw or similar mulch. Remove the mulch immediately when the weather warms up. As to winterizing a palm tree by wrapping it, there are 4 basic methods: stringing Christmas lights, the chicken wire method, utilizing heat tape and using water pipe insulation. Christmas lights – Christmas lights to wrap the palm are the easiest method. Do not use the newer LED lights, but stick with good old-fashioned bulbs. Tie the leaves together into a bundle and wrap them with a string of lights. The heat emitted by the lights should be enough to protect the tree, and it looks festive!
Chicken wire – When using the chicken wire method, lace 4 stakes, 3 feet apart, in a square with the palm at the center. Wrap 1-2” chicken wire or fencing wire around the posts to create a basket of about 3-4 feet high. Fill the “basket” with leaves. Remove the leaves in early March. Pipe insulation – When using water pipe insulation, cover the soil around the trees with mulch to protect the roots. Wrap the first 3-6 leaves and the trunk with water pipe insulation. Fold the top over to keep water from getting inside the insulation. Again, in March, remove the wrapping and mulch. Heat tape – Lastly, you can winterize the palm tree by using heat tape. Pull the fronds back and tie them. Wrap a heat tape (bought at a building supply store), around the trunk beginning at the base. Leave the thermostat out at the bottom of the trunk. Continue wrapping around the entire trunk up to the top. One 4′ tall palm needs a 15′ long heat tape. Then, wrap the trunk with 3-4 layer of burlap and secure with duct tape. Over top of all of this, wrap the entirety, including the fronds, with plastic wrap. Plug the tape into a ground fault receptacle. Remove the wrapping just as the weather begins to warm up lest you risk rotting the tree.
All of that is too much work for me. I am lazy. I use the Christmas lights and keep my fingers crossed. I am sure there are many other winter protection methods for palms. Use your imagination and be sure not to wrap the tree too far ahead of the cold and to unwrap it just as the weather warms.
Winter Palm Tree Care
Frost and freezing temperatures damage the tissue of plants, in general weakening them and leaving them susceptible to diseases. Cold snaps, in particular, are of concern. Winterizing your palm tree to protect it from cold damage may be of paramount importance, especially depending on your region. Winter palm tree care usually requires wrapping palm trees in winter. The question is how to wrap the palm tree for winter and with what?
How to Wrap Palm Trees for Winter
If your palm is small, you can cover it with a box or blanket and weigh it down. Don’t leave the cover on for longer than 5 days. You can also cover a small palm with straw or similar mulch. Remove the mulch immediately when the weather warms up. As to winterizing a palm tree by wrapping it, there are 4 basic methods: stringing Christmas lights, the chicken wire method, utilizing heat tape and using water pipe insulation. Christmas lights – Christmas lights to wrap the palm are the easiest method. Do not use the newer LED lights, but stick with good old-fashioned bulbs. Tie the leaves together into a bundle and wrap them with a string of lights. The heat emitted by the lights should be enough to protect the tree, and it looks festive!
Chicken wire – When using the chicken wire method, lace 4 stakes, 3 feet apart, in a square with the palm at the center. Wrap 1-2” chicken wire or fencing wire around the posts to create a basket of about 3-4 feet high. Fill the “basket” with leaves. Remove the leaves in early March. Pipe insulation – When using water pipe insulation, cover the soil around the trees with mulch to protect the roots. Wrap the first 3-6 leaves and the trunk with water pipe insulation. Fold the top over to keep water from getting inside the insulation. Again, in March, remove the wrapping and mulch. Heat tape – Lastly, you can winterize the palm tree by using heat tape. Pull the fronds back and tie them. Wrap a heat tape (bought at a building supply store), around the trunk beginning at the base. Leave the thermostat out at the bottom of the trunk. Continue wrapping around the entire trunk up to the top. One 4′ tall palm needs a 15′ long heat tape. Then, wrap the trunk with 3-4 layer of burlap and secure with duct tape. Over top of all of this, wrap the entirety, including the fronds, with plastic wrap. Plug the tape into a ground fault receptacle. Remove the wrapping just as the weather begins to warm up lest you risk rotting the tree.
All of that is too much work for me. I am lazy. I use the Christmas lights and keep my fingers crossed. I am sure there are many other winter protection methods for palms. Use your imagination and be sure not to wrap the tree too far ahead of the cold and to unwrap it just as the weather warms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
The flamboyant flame tree (Delonix regia) provides welcome shade and spectacular color in the warm climates of USDA zone 10 and above. Showy black seedpods measuring up to 26 inches in length decorate the tree in winter. The attractive, semi-deciduous leaves are elegant and fern-like. Read on to learn more about flame trees.
What is a Flame Tree?
Also known as royal Poinciana or flamboyant tree, flame tree is one of the world’s most colorful trees. Every spring, the tree produces clusters of long-lasting, orange-red blooms with yellow, burgundy or white markings. Each bloom, which measures up to 5 inches across, displays five spoon-shaped petals. Flame tree reaches heights of 30 to 50 feet, and the width of the umbrella-like canopy is often wider than the tree’s height.
Where do Flame Trees Grow?
Flame trees, which don’t tolerate temperatures below 40 degrees F. (4 C.), grow in Mexico, South and Central America, Asia and other tropical and subtropical climates around the world. Although flame tree often grows wild in deciduous forests, it is an endangered species in some areas, such as Madagascar. In India, Pakistan and Nepal, the tree is known as “Gulmohar.” In the United States, flame tree grows primarily in Hawaii, Florida, Arizona and Southern California.
Delonix Flame Tree Care
Flame trees perform best in large, open spaces and full sunlight. Plant the tree in a big landscape where it has room to spread; the roots are sturdy enough to lift asphalt. Also, keep in mind that the tree drops spent blooms and seed pods that require raking. The flamboyant flame tree benefits from consistent moisture during the first growing season. After that time, young trees appreciate watering once or twice per week during dry weather. Well-established trees require very little supplemental irrigation.
Otherwise, Delonix flame tree care is limited to an annual feeding in spring. Use a complete fertilizer with a ratio such as 8-4-12 or 7-3-7. Prune out damaged wood after blooming ends in late summer, beginning when the tree is about one year old. Avoid severe pruning, which can put a stop to blooming for as long as three years.
What is a Flame Tree?
Also known as royal Poinciana or flamboyant tree, flame tree is one of the world’s most colorful trees. Every spring, the tree produces clusters of long-lasting, orange-red blooms with yellow, burgundy or white markings. Each bloom, which measures up to 5 inches across, displays five spoon-shaped petals. Flame tree reaches heights of 30 to 50 feet, and the width of the umbrella-like canopy is often wider than the tree’s height.
Where do Flame Trees Grow?
Flame trees, which don’t tolerate temperatures below 40 degrees F. (4 C.), grow in Mexico, South and Central America, Asia and other tropical and subtropical climates around the world. Although flame tree often grows wild in deciduous forests, it is an endangered species in some areas, such as Madagascar. In India, Pakistan and Nepal, the tree is known as “Gulmohar.” In the United States, flame tree grows primarily in Hawaii, Florida, Arizona and Southern California.
Delonix Flame Tree Care
Flame trees perform best in large, open spaces and full sunlight. Plant the tree in a big landscape where it has room to spread; the roots are sturdy enough to lift asphalt. Also, keep in mind that the tree drops spent blooms and seed pods that require raking. The flamboyant flame tree benefits from consistent moisture during the first growing season. After that time, young trees appreciate watering once or twice per week during dry weather. Well-established trees require very little supplemental irrigation.
Otherwise, Delonix flame tree care is limited to an annual feeding in spring. Use a complete fertilizer with a ratio such as 8-4-12 or 7-3-7. Prune out damaged wood after blooming ends in late summer, beginning when the tree is about one year old. Avoid severe pruning, which can put a stop to blooming for as long as three years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Growing a red twig dogwood is a great way to add spectacular color to the winter garden. The stems, which are green in spring and summer, turn bright red when the foliage drops off in autumn. The shrub produces creamy-white flowers in spring and berries that ripen from green to white by the end of summer. Both fruits and flowers look good against the dark background of the foliage, but pale in comparison to the brilliant winter display.
Growing a Red Twig Dogwood
Don’t confuse red twig dogwood trees with other dogwood trees. While both the tree and the shrub belong to the Cornus genus, red twig dogwoods never grow to become trees. There are two species of Cornus called red twig dogwoods: Tatarian dogwood (C. alba) and Redosier dogwood (C. sericea). The two species are very similar. Red twig dogwood is one of those plants where more is better. They look fantastic when planted in groups or as an informal hedge. When planting red twig dogwoods, give them plenty of room. They grow up to 8 feet tall with an 8 foot spread. Overcrowding encourages diseases and causes less attractive, thin stems.
Red Twig Dogwood Care
Red twig dogwood care is minimal except for pruning. Annual pruning is essential to keep the brilliant colors of the twigs. The primary goal of pruning red twig dogwoods is to remove the old stems that no longer show good winter color. Remove about a third of the stems at ground level every year. Cut out old, weak stems as well as well as those that are damaged, discolored, or growing poorly. This method of pruning keeps the color bright and the shrub vigorous. After thinning you can shorten the stems to control the height if you’d like. Cut back the entire shrub to 9 inches above the ground if it becomes overgrown or out of control. This is a good way to quickly renew the plant, but it leaves a bare spot in the landscape until it regrows.
Water weekly in the absence of rain for the first couple of months after planting red twig dogwoods, and cut back on the water once the shrub is established. Mature shrubs only need watering during dry spells. Feed the plant once a year with a layer of compost or a sprinkling of slow-released fertilizer over the root zone.
Growing a Red Twig Dogwood
Don’t confuse red twig dogwood trees with other dogwood trees. While both the tree and the shrub belong to the Cornus genus, red twig dogwoods never grow to become trees. There are two species of Cornus called red twig dogwoods: Tatarian dogwood (C. alba) and Redosier dogwood (C. sericea). The two species are very similar. Red twig dogwood is one of those plants where more is better. They look fantastic when planted in groups or as an informal hedge. When planting red twig dogwoods, give them plenty of room. They grow up to 8 feet tall with an 8 foot spread. Overcrowding encourages diseases and causes less attractive, thin stems.
Red Twig Dogwood Care
Red twig dogwood care is minimal except for pruning. Annual pruning is essential to keep the brilliant colors of the twigs. The primary goal of pruning red twig dogwoods is to remove the old stems that no longer show good winter color. Remove about a third of the stems at ground level every year. Cut out old, weak stems as well as well as those that are damaged, discolored, or growing poorly. This method of pruning keeps the color bright and the shrub vigorous. After thinning you can shorten the stems to control the height if you’d like. Cut back the entire shrub to 9 inches above the ground if it becomes overgrown or out of control. This is a good way to quickly renew the plant, but it leaves a bare spot in the landscape until it regrows.
Water weekly in the absence of rain for the first couple of months after planting red twig dogwoods, and cut back on the water once the shrub is established. Mature shrubs only need watering during dry spells. Feed the plant once a year with a layer of compost or a sprinkling of slow-released fertilizer over the root zone.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
The dogwood is a favorite ornamental tree with numerous seasons of interest. As a landscape tree, it offers flowering spring beauty, a fall color show and bright berries in winter. In order to get all these attributes at their peak, it is a good idea to apply fertilizer for dogwoods. But do you know when to feed dogwood trees, or how to fertilize dogwoods? Timing and know how are the key to success in everything. Read on for information to keep your dogwood looking its best.
When to Fertilize Dogwood Trees
Dogwoods are native to Eurasia and North America in temperate to warm regions. The plants are part of a classic landscaping scheme of natural deciduous trees and shade to partial shade understory plants. The delicate flower-like bracts liven up the garden and lead up to a festive display of colorful berries. Fertilizing dogwood trees in spring will produce good tree health and vitality to ensure the best displays. The key to useful plant feeding is to time it correctly. Fertilizing dogwood trees too late in the season might inadvertently cause a flush of new growth, which would be too sensitive to survive an early cold snap. The better idea is to feed the tree in early spring and again three months later. This will give the plant all the extra nutrients it needs during the growing season.
Dogwood Tree Food
The type of dogwood tree food is an important consideration too. New trees need a different ratio than established specimens. Dogwood trees need slightly acidic soil to thrive. Before you apply any fertilizer for dogwoods, it is a good idea to test your soil and see what nutrients it lacks and if the pH is suited to your plant. If the soil is not acidic, you can use an acid lover’s fertilizer suitable for such plants as rhododendron and holly. In most regions, a ratio of 12-4-8 or 16-4-8 will be sufficient. Such a ratio is higher in nitrogen, which is what the plant needs to form leaves and vegetative growth. That being said, too much nitrogen can limit the flowering in dogwoods.
How to Fertilize Dogwoods
Young trees should not be fertilized the first year, as they are too sensitive at planting and damage could occur at the root level. If you feel you must fertilize, use an organic tea, diluted to half. Once the tree is at least 6 feet tall, use ¼ cup of fertilizer in February to March, and feed again three months later. The granular form is useful and should be dug in around the edges of the root zone. Make sure you water well after fertilizing.
Mature trees benefit from ½ cup per inch of trunk. You can also gauge the amount by figuring 3 ounces of fertilizer per every 1,000 square feet. Scatter the grains within 100 square feet of the tree and scratch into the soil. The adult tree’s root zone will go out that far from the tree and the wide area will have a better chance of delivering the food to the root system.
When to Fertilize Dogwood Trees
Dogwoods are native to Eurasia and North America in temperate to warm regions. The plants are part of a classic landscaping scheme of natural deciduous trees and shade to partial shade understory plants. The delicate flower-like bracts liven up the garden and lead up to a festive display of colorful berries. Fertilizing dogwood trees in spring will produce good tree health and vitality to ensure the best displays. The key to useful plant feeding is to time it correctly. Fertilizing dogwood trees too late in the season might inadvertently cause a flush of new growth, which would be too sensitive to survive an early cold snap. The better idea is to feed the tree in early spring and again three months later. This will give the plant all the extra nutrients it needs during the growing season.
Dogwood Tree Food
The type of dogwood tree food is an important consideration too. New trees need a different ratio than established specimens. Dogwood trees need slightly acidic soil to thrive. Before you apply any fertilizer for dogwoods, it is a good idea to test your soil and see what nutrients it lacks and if the pH is suited to your plant. If the soil is not acidic, you can use an acid lover’s fertilizer suitable for such plants as rhododendron and holly. In most regions, a ratio of 12-4-8 or 16-4-8 will be sufficient. Such a ratio is higher in nitrogen, which is what the plant needs to form leaves and vegetative growth. That being said, too much nitrogen can limit the flowering in dogwoods.
How to Fertilize Dogwoods
Young trees should not be fertilized the first year, as they are too sensitive at planting and damage could occur at the root level. If you feel you must fertilize, use an organic tea, diluted to half. Once the tree is at least 6 feet tall, use ¼ cup of fertilizer in February to March, and feed again three months later. The granular form is useful and should be dug in around the edges of the root zone. Make sure you water well after fertilizing.
Mature trees benefit from ½ cup per inch of trunk. You can also gauge the amount by figuring 3 ounces of fertilizer per every 1,000 square feet. Scatter the grains within 100 square feet of the tree and scratch into the soil. The adult tree’s root zone will go out that far from the tree and the wide area will have a better chance of delivering the food to the root system.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Are you seeing dead needles appear on the outer edges of your cedars? This could be symptomatic of winter damage to cedars. Winter cold and ice can result in winter damage to trees and shrubs, including Blue Atlas cedar, deodar cedar and Lebanon cedar. But you may not see the evidence of freeze damage until after temperatures warm and growth starts up again. Read on for information about cedar trees and winter damage.
Cedar Trees and Winter Damage
Cedars are evergreen conifers with needle-like leaves that stay on the tree all winter long. The trees go through “hardening off” in the autumn to prepare them for winter’s worst. The trees close down growth and slow transpiration and consumption of nutrients. You need to think about cedar trees and winter damage after you experience a few warm days in winter. Winter damage to cedars occurs when cedars are warmed all day by winter sun. Cedar trees damaged in winter are those that receive enough sunshine to make the needle cells thaw.
Cedar Trees Damaged in Winter
Winter damage to trees and shrubs happens the same day the foliage thaws. The temperature drops at night and the needle cells freeze again. They burst as they refreeze and, in time, die off. This results in the winter damage to cedars you see in spring, like dead foliage. Read on for information about the steps you should take to begin repairing winter damage on cedar.
Repairing Winter Damage on Cedar Trees
You won’t be able to tell right away if the weather has caused winter damage to trees and shrubs, since all cedars lose some needles in fall. Don’t take any action to start repairing winter damage on cedar trees until you can inspect the new spring growth. Instead of pruning in spring, fertilize the trees with landscape tree food, then apply liquid feeder to the foliage daily during April and May. At some point in June, evaluate any winter damage that may be present. You can do this by scratching the stems of the cedars to see if the tissue beneath is green. Prune back any branches where the tissue is brown. Cut back each branch to healthy stems with green tissue.
Once you have removed winter damage in trees and shrubs, prune the cedars to shape them. Cedars usually grow in an uneven pyramid shape and, as you cut, you should follow that shape. Leave the low branches long, then shorten the branch length as you move toward the top of the tree.
Cedar Trees and Winter Damage
Cedars are evergreen conifers with needle-like leaves that stay on the tree all winter long. The trees go through “hardening off” in the autumn to prepare them for winter’s worst. The trees close down growth and slow transpiration and consumption of nutrients. You need to think about cedar trees and winter damage after you experience a few warm days in winter. Winter damage to cedars occurs when cedars are warmed all day by winter sun. Cedar trees damaged in winter are those that receive enough sunshine to make the needle cells thaw.
Cedar Trees Damaged in Winter
Winter damage to trees and shrubs happens the same day the foliage thaws. The temperature drops at night and the needle cells freeze again. They burst as they refreeze and, in time, die off. This results in the winter damage to cedars you see in spring, like dead foliage. Read on for information about the steps you should take to begin repairing winter damage on cedar.
Repairing Winter Damage on Cedar Trees
You won’t be able to tell right away if the weather has caused winter damage to trees and shrubs, since all cedars lose some needles in fall. Don’t take any action to start repairing winter damage on cedar trees until you can inspect the new spring growth. Instead of pruning in spring, fertilize the trees with landscape tree food, then apply liquid feeder to the foliage daily during April and May. At some point in June, evaluate any winter damage that may be present. You can do this by scratching the stems of the cedars to see if the tissue beneath is green. Prune back any branches where the tissue is brown. Cut back each branch to healthy stems with green tissue.
Once you have removed winter damage in trees and shrubs, prune the cedars to shape them. Cedars usually grow in an uneven pyramid shape and, as you cut, you should follow that shape. Leave the low branches long, then shorten the branch length as you move toward the top of the tree.
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