文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月06日
The bird of paradise plant (Strelitzia reginae) is a tropical favorite known for its flamboyant birdlike blooms. A South African native, the plant is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. Throughout the rest of the United States, it enjoys widespread popularity as a dependable houseplant. Bird of paradise grows 3 to 5 feet in height and blooms intermittently through the year, creating a colorful focal point in warm-climate gardens.
Grow bird of paradise plants in well-drained, fertile soil in a sunny or partially sunny location. In warm climates, the plant grows and flowers best in partial shade. In sunny locations, bird of paradise grows shorter stems and produces smaller flowers.
Protect bird of paradise plants any time temperatures drop toward freezing. It can survive 30 degree Fahrenheit temperatures, but only for a brief time. In colder climates, grow bird of paradise in a large pot that can be moved inside during cold snaps and wintry weather.
Water bird of paradise consistently, especially when newly planted. New plantings need water every three days for the first six months until they get established. After that, the plant should thrive with normal rainfall and supplemental watering in dry conditions.
Place a layer of mulch around the base of the bird of paradise to conserve moisture and prevent competition from grass and weeds. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the plant's trunk to prevent moisture from accumulating and encouraging rot.
Fertilize bird of paradise every three months during its active growing season of spring and summer. Apply a controlled-release, balanced 14-14-14 fertilizer at a rate of 3 tablespoons per 4 square feet around the plant. Scratch the fertilizer into the soil with a garden fork, and water the area well.
Use insecticides sparingly as bird of paradise plants have few pests. If aphids or grasshoppers are noticed, remove them by hand or use a gentle blast from a hose to remove them. Remove any yellowed or dead leaves that occur through the year.
Divide large clumps of bird of paradise by separating the root ball early in the growth season. Use a garden fork to gently lift the plant and to pull the root ball apart. Plant divisions at the same depth the original grew. Keep them well watered until established.
Grow bird of paradise plants in well-drained, fertile soil in a sunny or partially sunny location. In warm climates, the plant grows and flowers best in partial shade. In sunny locations, bird of paradise grows shorter stems and produces smaller flowers.
Protect bird of paradise plants any time temperatures drop toward freezing. It can survive 30 degree Fahrenheit temperatures, but only for a brief time. In colder climates, grow bird of paradise in a large pot that can be moved inside during cold snaps and wintry weather.
Water bird of paradise consistently, especially when newly planted. New plantings need water every three days for the first six months until they get established. After that, the plant should thrive with normal rainfall and supplemental watering in dry conditions.
Place a layer of mulch around the base of the bird of paradise to conserve moisture and prevent competition from grass and weeds. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the plant's trunk to prevent moisture from accumulating and encouraging rot.
Fertilize bird of paradise every three months during its active growing season of spring and summer. Apply a controlled-release, balanced 14-14-14 fertilizer at a rate of 3 tablespoons per 4 square feet around the plant. Scratch the fertilizer into the soil with a garden fork, and water the area well.
Use insecticides sparingly as bird of paradise plants have few pests. If aphids or grasshoppers are noticed, remove them by hand or use a gentle blast from a hose to remove them. Remove any yellowed or dead leaves that occur through the year.
Divide large clumps of bird of paradise by separating the root ball early in the growth season. Use a garden fork to gently lift the plant and to pull the root ball apart. Plant divisions at the same depth the original grew. Keep them well watered until established.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月06日
Hens and chicks plant (Sempervivum tectorum) is named for the rosette, or hen, and small offsets, or chicks, that grow on slender runners extending from the succulent. This sturdy plant thrives in tough growing conditions and needs only a thin layer of soil to develop roots. After the hen flowers and sets seed in summer, it dies back and the chicks fill in the empty spot. Hens and chicks grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Sometimes called houseleek, you can also grow hens and chicks as a houseplant.
Outdoor Care
Like most succulents, hens and chicks thrive in poor, sandy, well-draining soil and full sun. A spot where the plant gets afternoon shade is best in hot, sunny climates, but too much shade may result in a spindly, pale plant. To plant hens and chicks, loosen the top of the soil with a spade or garden fork, then nestle the plant into the top of the soil. It will soon develop roots that anchor the plant to the soil. Water to a depth of 6 to 8 inches after planting. After that, water only when the soil is dry -- usually every seven to 10 day during hot weather. The plant doesn't need any fertilizer. To keep hens and chicks neat, pinch off flower heads after the plant blooms in midsummer.
Houseplant Hens and Chicks
Hens and chicks performs best and shows its best colors outdoors, but with proper care and a container with drainage holes, you can grow this succulent plant indoors. Plant hens and chicks in a container filled with a mixture of equal parts potting mix and sand, then place the plant in a south-facing window where it gets at least six to eight hours of sun each day. If you don't have a sunny window, place the plant under grow lights or fluorescent bulbs for 14 to 16 hours per day. Allow 6 to 12 inches between the plant and the bulb. Proper watering is critical because succulent plants rot quickly in soggy, waterlogged soil. One watering per week is generally enough during warm weather, but never water the plant unless the soil feels completely dry. Water sparingly during the winter, providing only enough water to keep the plant from shriveling. Let the pot drain thoroughly and never let the plant stand in water.
Making More Hens and Chicks
Hens and chicks is easy to propagate by removing chicks from the hen any time or year. This usually happens because the plant outgrows its garden spot or container or because the hens and chicks are too crowded. Allow the chick to develop until the runner dies back and you can see small roots at the base of the chick. Cut or break the chick from the hen and plant it in a pot filled with a sandy potting soil mix, or in well-drained outdoor spot. To keep from transferring disease to the plant while pruning, wipe the blades of your tools with alcohol and allow to dry before using.
Considerations
Although hens and chicks can spread up to 2 feet wide, they are not considered an invasive plant. Hens and chicks are generally disease-free with the exception of root or stem rot or rust, which occur if hens and chicks are overwatered or placed in soil that doesn't drain well.
Outdoor Care
Like most succulents, hens and chicks thrive in poor, sandy, well-draining soil and full sun. A spot where the plant gets afternoon shade is best in hot, sunny climates, but too much shade may result in a spindly, pale plant. To plant hens and chicks, loosen the top of the soil with a spade or garden fork, then nestle the plant into the top of the soil. It will soon develop roots that anchor the plant to the soil. Water to a depth of 6 to 8 inches after planting. After that, water only when the soil is dry -- usually every seven to 10 day during hot weather. The plant doesn't need any fertilizer. To keep hens and chicks neat, pinch off flower heads after the plant blooms in midsummer.
Houseplant Hens and Chicks
Hens and chicks performs best and shows its best colors outdoors, but with proper care and a container with drainage holes, you can grow this succulent plant indoors. Plant hens and chicks in a container filled with a mixture of equal parts potting mix and sand, then place the plant in a south-facing window where it gets at least six to eight hours of sun each day. If you don't have a sunny window, place the plant under grow lights or fluorescent bulbs for 14 to 16 hours per day. Allow 6 to 12 inches between the plant and the bulb. Proper watering is critical because succulent plants rot quickly in soggy, waterlogged soil. One watering per week is generally enough during warm weather, but never water the plant unless the soil feels completely dry. Water sparingly during the winter, providing only enough water to keep the plant from shriveling. Let the pot drain thoroughly and never let the plant stand in water.
Making More Hens and Chicks
Hens and chicks is easy to propagate by removing chicks from the hen any time or year. This usually happens because the plant outgrows its garden spot or container or because the hens and chicks are too crowded. Allow the chick to develop until the runner dies back and you can see small roots at the base of the chick. Cut or break the chick from the hen and plant it in a pot filled with a sandy potting soil mix, or in well-drained outdoor spot. To keep from transferring disease to the plant while pruning, wipe the blades of your tools with alcohol and allow to dry before using.
Considerations
Although hens and chicks can spread up to 2 feet wide, they are not considered an invasive plant. Hens and chicks are generally disease-free with the exception of root or stem rot or rust, which occur if hens and chicks are overwatered or placed in soil that doesn't drain well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月06日
A plant for pond edges, bog gardens and other wet sites, horsetail (Equisetum hyemale) grows in stands of bamboo-like, dark green stems. Also called scouring rush, horsetail is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 11, and is a member of an ancient plant family that dates back 350 million years, notes the Missouri Botanical Garden. One reason for this perennial's long survival is its extremely aggressive spreading habit, but growing horsetail in containers gives you some control.
Containing Horsetail
Horsetail spreads outward through underground stems called rhizomes, and containers provide a barrier to these rhizomes. Plant horsetail in a container, with drainage holes, that's just large enough to accommodate the plant's root ball. Place a sheet of fine mesh, such as screen mesh, over the drainage holes to prevent horsetail rhizomes from growing through them, and spread a layer of general purpose potting soil over the mesh. Place the horsetail in the container. The top of the root ball should be 1 inch below the container rim. Fill in gaps around the root ball with more potting soil, and apply water until it runs though the drainage holes.
Planting in Water
Horsetail thrives in water gardens and on stream banks. Providing year-round color and structure in wet, full-sun and partial-shade sites, horsetail tolerates water to a depth of 4 inches over its roots. To add horsetail to your water garden or pond site, spread a 1-inch layer of gravel over the potting soil in the horsetail container to protect it. Place bricks on the bottom of the planting site to provide a firm, level base. Sink the horsetail container into the water slowly until it's submerged and resting firmly on the bricks.
Planting in Soil
Horsetail provides strong, vertical lines in Japanese gardens and can grow where few other plants survive. Dig a hole 2 or 3 inches wider than the horsetail container and 1 inch less deep. Place the container in the hole, and check that it's level. Twisting the container and pushing down gently helps level the container and firm the soil beneath it. Check that the container rim is protruding from the soil by 1 inch, and fill in the gaps around it with dug soil. Water the ground around the container to settle the soil, and fill in any hollows with more soil.
Controlling Horsetail
Prune regularly to control horsetail's spreading habit. Horsetail grows 2 to 4 feet tall and spreads indefinitely in favorable conditions. Check the horsetail monthly, at least, for rhizomes climbing over the container rim and stems with cone-like, spore-producing heads, which usually appear in spring. Clean pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and prune escaping rhizomes and fruiting stems at ground level. Wipe the pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol again after use. Place pruned horsetail debris in a sealed plastic bag in the trash. Don't grow horsetail in areas accessible to pets or livestock. Horsetail can be deadly to animals when eaten.
Containing Horsetail
Horsetail spreads outward through underground stems called rhizomes, and containers provide a barrier to these rhizomes. Plant horsetail in a container, with drainage holes, that's just large enough to accommodate the plant's root ball. Place a sheet of fine mesh, such as screen mesh, over the drainage holes to prevent horsetail rhizomes from growing through them, and spread a layer of general purpose potting soil over the mesh. Place the horsetail in the container. The top of the root ball should be 1 inch below the container rim. Fill in gaps around the root ball with more potting soil, and apply water until it runs though the drainage holes.
Planting in Water
Horsetail thrives in water gardens and on stream banks. Providing year-round color and structure in wet, full-sun and partial-shade sites, horsetail tolerates water to a depth of 4 inches over its roots. To add horsetail to your water garden or pond site, spread a 1-inch layer of gravel over the potting soil in the horsetail container to protect it. Place bricks on the bottom of the planting site to provide a firm, level base. Sink the horsetail container into the water slowly until it's submerged and resting firmly on the bricks.
Planting in Soil
Horsetail provides strong, vertical lines in Japanese gardens and can grow where few other plants survive. Dig a hole 2 or 3 inches wider than the horsetail container and 1 inch less deep. Place the container in the hole, and check that it's level. Twisting the container and pushing down gently helps level the container and firm the soil beneath it. Check that the container rim is protruding from the soil by 1 inch, and fill in the gaps around it with dug soil. Water the ground around the container to settle the soil, and fill in any hollows with more soil.
Controlling Horsetail
Prune regularly to control horsetail's spreading habit. Horsetail grows 2 to 4 feet tall and spreads indefinitely in favorable conditions. Check the horsetail monthly, at least, for rhizomes climbing over the container rim and stems with cone-like, spore-producing heads, which usually appear in spring. Clean pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol, and prune escaping rhizomes and fruiting stems at ground level. Wipe the pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol again after use. Place pruned horsetail debris in a sealed plastic bag in the trash. Don't grow horsetail in areas accessible to pets or livestock. Horsetail can be deadly to animals when eaten.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月06日
Winter-blooming clivia (Clivia miniata) flowers in winter and early spring. The clusters of yellow and orange blossoms are surrounded by strappy green leaves. Clivia grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, but it can grow as a houseplant anywhere with proper care.
Pick a Spot
Whether you grow clivia outdoors in the garden, or indoors in a pot, provide the plant with partial shade. Outdoor beds with dappled sunlight work well, while indoors you can set them in an area with bright but indirect sunlight. Clivia is prone to root rot in wet soil, so grow them in well-draining beds or use pots with bottom drainage holes. Temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit kill the plant, so bring outdoor potted plants indoors before a freeze and don't allow the foliage to touch a window during cold weather.
Watering Wisely
How much water a clivia needs depends on the season. During spring and summer, water the soil when the top 1 inch feels completely dry. When watering a potted plant, allow the excess to drain from the bottom drainage in the pot and empty the drip tray afterward. Withhold water from late fall through midwinter if you want the plant to flower, because clivia only flowers in response to drought stress. During this dry rest period, keep the temperature below 60 F to further encourage blooms. Resume regular watering and increase temperatures when the flower stalk is about 6 inches tall.
Feeding Tips
Light fertilizer encourages healthy growth, whether the clivia is grown indoors or outside. Fertilize once a week in spring and summer. Dilute 1/2 teaspoon of 15-15-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture water for one regular watering each week. Clivia doesn't need fertilizer during its dormant period in fall and winter.
Pruning Needs
Clivia doesn't require any regular pruning, but you can trim off dead or badly damaged leaves to improve the plant's appearance. Gently pull off the leaves or trim them off with shears wiped with a rubbing alcohol-soaked cloth. Potted clivia also rarely needs repotting and grows best when root bound. If the roots completely fill the pot, which happens about every three or four years, transplant it in spring to a new pot one size larger than the old one. The new pot must have bottom drainage holes. Plant the clivia at the same depth it was growing previously, and handle the roots gently to avoid damage.
Controlling Pests
Diseases rarely affect clivia, with the exception of root rot in overly wet soil. Indoors, aphids and mites may feed on the foliage, but you can rinse these off with a strong stream of water. Slugs and snails may feast on clivia foliage outdoors. Pick these off by hand and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.
Pick a Spot
Whether you grow clivia outdoors in the garden, or indoors in a pot, provide the plant with partial shade. Outdoor beds with dappled sunlight work well, while indoors you can set them in an area with bright but indirect sunlight. Clivia is prone to root rot in wet soil, so grow them in well-draining beds or use pots with bottom drainage holes. Temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit kill the plant, so bring outdoor potted plants indoors before a freeze and don't allow the foliage to touch a window during cold weather.
Watering Wisely
How much water a clivia needs depends on the season. During spring and summer, water the soil when the top 1 inch feels completely dry. When watering a potted plant, allow the excess to drain from the bottom drainage in the pot and empty the drip tray afterward. Withhold water from late fall through midwinter if you want the plant to flower, because clivia only flowers in response to drought stress. During this dry rest period, keep the temperature below 60 F to further encourage blooms. Resume regular watering and increase temperatures when the flower stalk is about 6 inches tall.
Feeding Tips
Light fertilizer encourages healthy growth, whether the clivia is grown indoors or outside. Fertilize once a week in spring and summer. Dilute 1/2 teaspoon of 15-15-15 fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and use the mixture water for one regular watering each week. Clivia doesn't need fertilizer during its dormant period in fall and winter.
Pruning Needs
Clivia doesn't require any regular pruning, but you can trim off dead or badly damaged leaves to improve the plant's appearance. Gently pull off the leaves or trim them off with shears wiped with a rubbing alcohol-soaked cloth. Potted clivia also rarely needs repotting and grows best when root bound. If the roots completely fill the pot, which happens about every three or four years, transplant it in spring to a new pot one size larger than the old one. The new pot must have bottom drainage holes. Plant the clivia at the same depth it was growing previously, and handle the roots gently to avoid damage.
Controlling Pests
Diseases rarely affect clivia, with the exception of root rot in overly wet soil. Indoors, aphids and mites may feed on the foliage, but you can rinse these off with a strong stream of water. Slugs and snails may feast on clivia foliage outdoors. Pick these off by hand and drop them into a bucket of soapy water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月05日
Bearing spikes of fluffy, purple, summer flowers, Liatris spicata, also known as blazing star, provides its best effect in mass plantings. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, blazing star is a U.S. native that's also called gayfeather, snakeroot and dense blazing star. Its grass-like clumps grow 24 to 48 inches tall and 9 to 18 inches wide, and its flower spikes are 6 to 12 inches long. White, bluish and deep purple cultivars are available. A perennial plant, blazing star can be planted as a corm, which is a swollen underground stem, and also as a young plant. Blazing star flowers are attractive to butterflies.
Blazing Star Corms
Step 1
Till moist, well-drained soil in full sun with a garden fork to a depth of 6 inches in fall or spring. Mix in a 2-inch layer of garden compost, leaf mold or other organic matter if the soil is sandy and dry.
Step 2
Scatter blazing star corms across the growing site to create an informal effect or arrange the corms in the desired pattern. Space the corms about 2 to 4 inches apart and at a rate of 10 to 20 blazing star corms per square foot.
Step 3
Dig a hole beneath a blazing star corm 5 inches deep and as wide as the corm. Place it in the hole so that the widest, flattest part of the corm lies on the base of the hole. Fill in the hole with dug soil and plant the rest of the corms in the same way.
Step 4
Water the blazing star corms thoroughly and water regularly throughout the growing season so that the soil is constantly moist but not saturated.
Blazing Star Plants
Step 1
Dig a hole as wide and deep as the blazing star root ball in a full-sun growing site with a trowel in spring. Blazing star tolerates dry, infertile soil but grows and flowers best in moist, well-drained, rich soil.
Step 2
Place a blazing star plant in the hole so that the surface of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Fill in gaps around the root ball with dug soil. Space blazing star plants 9 to 18 inches apart.
Step 3
Water the blazing star plants thoroughly and apply water throughout the growing season to keep the soil moist, especially when conditions are dry.
Step 4
Spread a 9-18-9 ready-to-use, slow-release fertilizer around the planting site at a rate of 1 tablespoon per square foot. Apply the fertilizer every three months during the growing season.
Blazing Star Corms
Step 1
Till moist, well-drained soil in full sun with a garden fork to a depth of 6 inches in fall or spring. Mix in a 2-inch layer of garden compost, leaf mold or other organic matter if the soil is sandy and dry.
Step 2
Scatter blazing star corms across the growing site to create an informal effect or arrange the corms in the desired pattern. Space the corms about 2 to 4 inches apart and at a rate of 10 to 20 blazing star corms per square foot.
Step 3
Dig a hole beneath a blazing star corm 5 inches deep and as wide as the corm. Place it in the hole so that the widest, flattest part of the corm lies on the base of the hole. Fill in the hole with dug soil and plant the rest of the corms in the same way.
Step 4
Water the blazing star corms thoroughly and water regularly throughout the growing season so that the soil is constantly moist but not saturated.
Blazing Star Plants
Step 1
Dig a hole as wide and deep as the blazing star root ball in a full-sun growing site with a trowel in spring. Blazing star tolerates dry, infertile soil but grows and flowers best in moist, well-drained, rich soil.
Step 2
Place a blazing star plant in the hole so that the surface of the root ball is level with the surrounding soil. Fill in gaps around the root ball with dug soil. Space blazing star plants 9 to 18 inches apart.
Step 3
Water the blazing star plants thoroughly and apply water throughout the growing season to keep the soil moist, especially when conditions are dry.
Step 4
Spread a 9-18-9 ready-to-use, slow-release fertilizer around the planting site at a rate of 1 tablespoon per square foot. Apply the fertilizer every three months during the growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月05日
The Moses-in-the-cradle plant (Tradescantia spathacea) gets its interesting name from its flowers, which are small and white, and sit in a special leaf, called a bract, which resembles a dark purple boat. Also called boat lily, oyster plant, rhoeo tricolor and Moses-in-a-basket, this plant grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 and also does well as a houseplant. Easy to grow and tolerant of most environments, it forms short clumps of radiating, sword-shaped leaves in sun or shade, and needs only basic care and consistent moisture to thrive.
Plant Wisely
This plant can cause an allergic skin reaction in some people and pets, and can be poisonous if eaten in large quantities, so it's not a good choice for an area where pets or children play.
It can also be invasive in some parts of the U.S., spreading into forested areas. Check before planting whether it's a good choice for your area. Manage its tendency to get out of control by removing spent flowers to prevent seed formation, and prevent spreading of the clump by surrounding it with a physical barrier that extends several inches into the soil.
Proper Lighting
Moses-in-the-cradle grows to about 1 foot tall, spreading to form a clump up to 2 feet wide. It tolerates most lighting conditions, but prefers filtered sun or partial shade. It can grow in full sun, but in areas with strong, hot summer sun, provide some shade in the afternoon to protect the leaves from scorching.
If you grow this plant indoors, it does best in bright, indirect light for at least six to eight hours each day. The windowsill of a lightly curtained, south- or west-facing window gives the plant good light without too much direct sun.
Water Needs
When grown in the garden, Moses-in-the-basket prefers consistently moist soil and requires good drainage. Although the plant can also tolerate dry spells once established, adding a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, helps conserve soil moisture and also keeps down competing weeds. In warm climates, the plant continues growing slowly during cold weather, but needs less water while it takes a rest.
If you grow Moses-in-the-cradle as a container plant, water it whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry to your fingertip. Never leave the pot in a water-filled saucer, because this can encourage fungal problems. Always use a pot that has drainage holes. In fall and winter, allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings to give the plant a rest.
Fertilizer and Pruning
Moses-in-the-cradle doesn't need fertilizer when grown outdoors in fertile soil that's rich in organic content. You can give the plant a boost by mixing a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost into its soil each spring, but do this carefully to avoid disturbing the roots.
If you grow the plant indoors, fertilize it every three months with a balanced, 10-10-10 fertilizer, diluted at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon in 1 gallon of water, but check your product label for additional directions.
This plant doesn't require regular pruning, but you can trim back an outdoor-grown Moses-in-the-cradle each spring to keep it within bounds. Cut the plant back to a height of a few inches, wiping your blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent the spread of disease.
Avoiding Problems
Moses-in-the-cradle is usually free of diseases when grown in well-drained soil, but it can attract a few pests. These include mealybugs, which are fluffy white insects, or tiny, winged whiteflies; spider mites, which aren't visible, also could produce weblike coverings on young leaves. Control these by spraying with ready-to-use insecticidal soap. Repeat every week or two as needed. Wear long sleeves, long pants, gloves and eye protection when spraying plants.
Plant Wisely
This plant can cause an allergic skin reaction in some people and pets, and can be poisonous if eaten in large quantities, so it's not a good choice for an area where pets or children play.
It can also be invasive in some parts of the U.S., spreading into forested areas. Check before planting whether it's a good choice for your area. Manage its tendency to get out of control by removing spent flowers to prevent seed formation, and prevent spreading of the clump by surrounding it with a physical barrier that extends several inches into the soil.
Proper Lighting
Moses-in-the-cradle grows to about 1 foot tall, spreading to form a clump up to 2 feet wide. It tolerates most lighting conditions, but prefers filtered sun or partial shade. It can grow in full sun, but in areas with strong, hot summer sun, provide some shade in the afternoon to protect the leaves from scorching.
If you grow this plant indoors, it does best in bright, indirect light for at least six to eight hours each day. The windowsill of a lightly curtained, south- or west-facing window gives the plant good light without too much direct sun.
Water Needs
When grown in the garden, Moses-in-the-basket prefers consistently moist soil and requires good drainage. Although the plant can also tolerate dry spells once established, adding a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded bark, helps conserve soil moisture and also keeps down competing weeds. In warm climates, the plant continues growing slowly during cold weather, but needs less water while it takes a rest.
If you grow Moses-in-the-cradle as a container plant, water it whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry to your fingertip. Never leave the pot in a water-filled saucer, because this can encourage fungal problems. Always use a pot that has drainage holes. In fall and winter, allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings to give the plant a rest.
Fertilizer and Pruning
Moses-in-the-cradle doesn't need fertilizer when grown outdoors in fertile soil that's rich in organic content. You can give the plant a boost by mixing a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost into its soil each spring, but do this carefully to avoid disturbing the roots.
If you grow the plant indoors, fertilize it every three months with a balanced, 10-10-10 fertilizer, diluted at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon in 1 gallon of water, but check your product label for additional directions.
This plant doesn't require regular pruning, but you can trim back an outdoor-grown Moses-in-the-cradle each spring to keep it within bounds. Cut the plant back to a height of a few inches, wiping your blade with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent the spread of disease.
Avoiding Problems
Moses-in-the-cradle is usually free of diseases when grown in well-drained soil, but it can attract a few pests. These include mealybugs, which are fluffy white insects, or tiny, winged whiteflies; spider mites, which aren't visible, also could produce weblike coverings on young leaves. Control these by spraying with ready-to-use insecticidal soap. Repeat every week or two as needed. Wear long sleeves, long pants, gloves and eye protection when spraying plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
The care and effort it takes to overwinter elephant ears (Colocasia spp.), which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11 with some variation within species, depends on your climate. In frost-free tropical and sub-tropical areas, these lush foliage plants grow year-round with minimal winter care. In frost-prone regions, overwintering elephant ears takes a little more effort, but it's worth it when the 2- to 3-foot-long heart-shaped leaves bring a tropical flair to the garden the following summer.
Mild Climates Need Little Care
In USDA zones 10 through 11, elephant ear plants will grow year-round, remaining green through the winter. Discontinue watering from late fall through winter so the soil dries out. The soil can dry out completely during the dormant period, but natural rainfall will likely keep the soil moist. Cut back dead foliage and stalks as they die 2 to 4 inches from the soil line. Elephant ear foliage dies back throughout the year, but winter is a good time to tidy plants. You can cut out dead leaves any time of year.
Frosty Areas Require Some Protection
While elephant ear plants survive winters in frost-prone areas, specifically within USDA zones 8 through 9, the foliage will die back after a frost or cold spell. Once the first frost kills the foliage, cut back the stalks 2 to 4 inches from the soil line, then cover the soil with a layer of mulch 4 inches deep. No additional water is necessary during the dormant period. The mulch helps insulate the soil. Sawdust, seed-free straw, leaf-mold and compost all make good mulching materials.
Overwintering Indoors
Outside of the growing zone -- anywhere colder than USDA zone 8 -- elephant ears are not reliably hardy. The roots will freeze in the cold soil, killing the plants. In cold areas you have two choices: you can grow elephant ears in pots and keep them in a frost-free area over winter in a dormant state, or dig the tubers in the fall and .
Overwintering Pots Indoors
Before the first frost, move the container to an area that won't freeze over winter. An unheated garage or shed that stays above 50 degrees Fahrenheit works well. Discontinue watering through the winter. This forces elephant ear tubers into dormancy. Cut all the stalks down at the soil level. In the spring when the temperature is consistently at or above 60 degrees F, water when the top of the soil feels dry. Once the last frost has passed, you can return the pots outdoors.
Digging and Storing Tubers
Allow the leaves and stalks to die back naturally with the first of the winter frosts. Once dead, cut back the foliage 2 to 4 inches from the soil, then carefully dig out the roots. Elephant ears have fleshy tubers for roots. Brush soil away from the surface and identify the shape and size of the tuber, then dig down around the outside of the root and lift it from the soil. Brush off extra dirt and pack the tubers in dry sawdust or peat moss in a bucket or tub. Keep the tubers dry in a 50-degrees F spot through the winter.
Mild Climates Need Little Care
In USDA zones 10 through 11, elephant ear plants will grow year-round, remaining green through the winter. Discontinue watering from late fall through winter so the soil dries out. The soil can dry out completely during the dormant period, but natural rainfall will likely keep the soil moist. Cut back dead foliage and stalks as they die 2 to 4 inches from the soil line. Elephant ear foliage dies back throughout the year, but winter is a good time to tidy plants. You can cut out dead leaves any time of year.
Frosty Areas Require Some Protection
While elephant ear plants survive winters in frost-prone areas, specifically within USDA zones 8 through 9, the foliage will die back after a frost or cold spell. Once the first frost kills the foliage, cut back the stalks 2 to 4 inches from the soil line, then cover the soil with a layer of mulch 4 inches deep. No additional water is necessary during the dormant period. The mulch helps insulate the soil. Sawdust, seed-free straw, leaf-mold and compost all make good mulching materials.
Overwintering Indoors
Outside of the growing zone -- anywhere colder than USDA zone 8 -- elephant ears are not reliably hardy. The roots will freeze in the cold soil, killing the plants. In cold areas you have two choices: you can grow elephant ears in pots and keep them in a frost-free area over winter in a dormant state, or dig the tubers in the fall and .
Overwintering Pots Indoors
Before the first frost, move the container to an area that won't freeze over winter. An unheated garage or shed that stays above 50 degrees Fahrenheit works well. Discontinue watering through the winter. This forces elephant ear tubers into dormancy. Cut all the stalks down at the soil level. In the spring when the temperature is consistently at or above 60 degrees F, water when the top of the soil feels dry. Once the last frost has passed, you can return the pots outdoors.
Digging and Storing Tubers
Allow the leaves and stalks to die back naturally with the first of the winter frosts. Once dead, cut back the foliage 2 to 4 inches from the soil, then carefully dig out the roots. Elephant ears have fleshy tubers for roots. Brush soil away from the surface and identify the shape and size of the tuber, then dig down around the outside of the root and lift it from the soil. Brush off extra dirt and pack the tubers in dry sawdust or peat moss in a bucket or tub. Keep the tubers dry in a 50-degrees F spot through the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) are named for their short-lived blooms, but these perennials can produce flowers for three to four weeks with the right care. Daylilies are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness 3 through 9 and grow 6 to 36 inches tall and 18 to 24 inches wide, depending on the variety. Watering daylilies frequently, removing their faded flowers, dividing them when crowded and growing them in full sun encourage prolific flowering.
Watering Daylilies
Continually moist soil promotes flowering in daylilies. These plants are drought-tolerant, but they flower best when they receive 1 inch of water per week, and they need more water when the weather is hot and dry.
Water daylilies thoroughly when their first flower buds appear in spring, and spread a 2-inch-thick layer of shredded leaves or other light mulch over the bare soil between plants. Water the plants again when the soil surface is dry; scrape back some mulch to check if you aren't sure about the soil's condition. Don't water the plants so much that the ground becomes soggy.
Removing Faded Flowers
Taking off faded flowers prevents daylilies from developing seeds, which encourages more blooms. Seedpods behind the faded flowers must be removed to prompt the plants to flower again.
Daylilies produce many flowers on single stems, and usually the flowers last about one day. Every two or three days, pinch off the faded flowers and developing seedpods where they join the stems. When all the flower buds on a stem have bloomed, prune the stem at its base. Sterilize pruning shear blades before and after pruning daylilies by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Dividing Daylilies
Poorly performing daylilies may be crowded, and dividing the plants usually increases blooming. Daylilies grow in fan-shaped clumps, and over time these clumps become congested. A sign of crowded plants is few flowers.
Divide daylilies in spring. Push a garden fork deeply into the ground several times around a daylily clump, levering the fork upward each time until the daylily's root ball lifts out of the ground. Using a sharp knife or two garden forks inserted back to back into the clump then pulled apart, divide the clump into three or four sections. Plant the sections 18 to 24 inches apart and at their original growing depths.
Using Full-Sun Sites
Daylilies flower best when planted in a full-sun location. Specimens growing in partially shaded spots grow well, but they flower less. Growing daylilies in areas that receive at least six hours of sunlight daily provides the most flowers, but in warm climates the plants need some light shade during the hottest part of the day.
Remove sources of shade, such as overhanging foliage, or transplant shaded daylilies to a full-sun site. Daylilies also can be replanted in a sunny spot after their clumps are divided in spring.
Watering Daylilies
Continually moist soil promotes flowering in daylilies. These plants are drought-tolerant, but they flower best when they receive 1 inch of water per week, and they need more water when the weather is hot and dry.
Water daylilies thoroughly when their first flower buds appear in spring, and spread a 2-inch-thick layer of shredded leaves or other light mulch over the bare soil between plants. Water the plants again when the soil surface is dry; scrape back some mulch to check if you aren't sure about the soil's condition. Don't water the plants so much that the ground becomes soggy.
Removing Faded Flowers
Taking off faded flowers prevents daylilies from developing seeds, which encourages more blooms. Seedpods behind the faded flowers must be removed to prompt the plants to flower again.
Daylilies produce many flowers on single stems, and usually the flowers last about one day. Every two or three days, pinch off the faded flowers and developing seedpods where they join the stems. When all the flower buds on a stem have bloomed, prune the stem at its base. Sterilize pruning shear blades before and after pruning daylilies by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Dividing Daylilies
Poorly performing daylilies may be crowded, and dividing the plants usually increases blooming. Daylilies grow in fan-shaped clumps, and over time these clumps become congested. A sign of crowded plants is few flowers.
Divide daylilies in spring. Push a garden fork deeply into the ground several times around a daylily clump, levering the fork upward each time until the daylily's root ball lifts out of the ground. Using a sharp knife or two garden forks inserted back to back into the clump then pulled apart, divide the clump into three or four sections. Plant the sections 18 to 24 inches apart and at their original growing depths.
Using Full-Sun Sites
Daylilies flower best when planted in a full-sun location. Specimens growing in partially shaded spots grow well, but they flower less. Growing daylilies in areas that receive at least six hours of sunlight daily provides the most flowers, but in warm climates the plants need some light shade during the hottest part of the day.
Remove sources of shade, such as overhanging foliage, or transplant shaded daylilies to a full-sun site. Daylilies also can be replanted in a sunny spot after their clumps are divided in spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月04日
Newly transplanted day lilies (Hemerocallis spp.) establish quickly, producing lush, swordlike spring and summer foliage punctuated by bright summer flowers. Day lilies grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, depending on the variety. Whether you are transplanting new day lilies or dividing and transplanting those you already have, doing so at the right time ensures you still get to enjoy healthy plants and a full season of flowers.
New Plants
New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants.
Divide and Move
Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting.
The Transplant Process
Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care After Transplanting
A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.
New Plants
New day lily plants establish quickly when planted in spring, but you can plant them any time between spring and late summer. Potted plants can survive without immediate planting if you provide them with full sun and keep the soil moist. Day lilies bought as bareroot plants that aren't packaged in soil need immediate transplanting so the roots don't dry out. Trim off the top one-third of the foliage with shears wiped with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol before transplanting. Digging and transplanting on a cloudy day or in late afternoon prevents heat and sun stress on newly moved plants.
Divide and Move
Although existing day lily plants tolerate digging and transplanting any time during the spring and summer, the best time to dig in in early spring just as they begin putting on new growth, or in summer right after they finish their first flush of flowering. The plants require digging, dividing and transplanting every three years, or when the clumps get too large and the plants begin flowering poorly. Cutting back the leaves to 6 inches tall prevents breakage when you dig them up. Loosen the soil around the perimeter of the root zone with a spading fork and slide the fork underneath the roots, lifting the day lilies from the ground. Split the lifted clump into sections, with four leaf fans on each section, before transplanting.
The Transplant Process
Garden beds that get full, all-day sun with well-draining but moist soil provide healthy growing conditions for your day lilies. Mixing in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost into the top 8 inches of soil improves the soil. Plant new or divided transplants in a hole about the same depth as the root ball, so the crown of the plants sits just at the soil surface, and then fill in the hole with soil. Creating a mound of soil in the bottom of the hole allows you to spread the day lily roots out in the hole so they can establish well. Space the plants about 18 inches apart to prevent overcrowding.
Care After Transplanting
A deep watering right after transplanting helps the soil settle around the roots. After watering, cover the soil with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bark or pine straw mulch, leaving 1 to 2 inches between the mulch and the base of the plants. Mulch helps retain moisture and insulates the soil, while also smothering and preventing weed growth. Water day lilies once each week, soaking the soil 8 inches deep. You can trim off any tattered or damaged leaves with disinfected shears to improve the appearance of the day lilies as they establish.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Producing a new azalea (Rhododendron spp.) from cuttings creates a new plant with the same characteristics as its parent. Reproducing azaleas from cuttings is often the only way to duplicate the style of a particular plant, since many azaleas are hybridized plants that can't reproduce the same traits from seed. Azalea species such as flame azalea (Rhododendron calendulaceum) often have a narrow growing range. Flame azaleas grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 to 7.
Best Azalea Cuttings
Growing evergreen azaleas from cuttings is typically much more successful than their deciduous counterparts. During the summer after the new growth from the spring season has just begun to harden and turn brown is the best time to take an azalea cutting. The most viable cuttings come from healthy plants that are not stressed by malnutrition, insect damage or disease. A growing azalea branch that is brown but still flexible 3 to 6 inches from its tip with several healthy leaves is an ideal candidate. Dipping the blades of your cutting shears in rubbing alcohol and air-drying them is an effective way to avoid introducing diseases to your azalea and the cutting.
Preparing the Container
The Clemson University Cooperative Extension recommends starting azalea cuttings in a mix of peat and perlite in equal parts. Wetting the soil before you insert an azalea cutting encourages rooting and helps keep the cutting hydrated. You can use any planting container large enough to hold the cuttings that is clean and has drainage holes. You can sterilize used containers by rinsing them with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water.
Preparing Azalea Cuttings
Removing the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting reduces the amount of nutrients and water it will lose before it can establish roots. Leave at least two leaves near the tip of the cutting. Trimming the stem just beneath the point where the first leaf attached to the cutting removes excess material that cannot form roots. Dipping the bottom third of the trimmed cutting in a powered rooting hormone improves its ability to generate new roots. Gently tap the cutting's stem to dislodge excess rooting hormone after dipping it.
Planting Azalea Cuttings
Cuttings often fail to take root, but planting several cuttings at the same time improves the odds that at least one will take. Azalea cuttings need 2 to 3 inches of space between the edge of the container and other cuttings to thrive. Insert each cutting into the soil until the bottom third of the stem is covered and gently firm the soil around the cutting's base to prevent it from falling over.
Caring for Azalea Cuttings
Cuttings can not replenish water they lose until they have formed new roots. Maintaining a high level of humidity around the leaves of the cuttings helps reduce water loss, preventing your cuttings from drying out. You can increase the humidity around an azalea cutting by misting its leaves with water and covering it with a clear plastic bag or the severed bottom half of a plastic 2-liter bottle. Once the cutting develops roots, the plastic cover can be removed. When the cutting develops resistance to a gentle tug, its roots have begun growing. Until the roots have had time to establish themselves fully, the cutting needs regular, light watering to keep the soil around the roots from drying out.
Safe Handling
Nearly all parts of azalea plants are toxic when consumed. Wearing gloves while working with cuttings and washing your tools and hands after you are finished helps prevent cases of accidental poisoning. Avoid eating or handling food while you are working with the cuttings.
Best Azalea Cuttings
Growing evergreen azaleas from cuttings is typically much more successful than their deciduous counterparts. During the summer after the new growth from the spring season has just begun to harden and turn brown is the best time to take an azalea cutting. The most viable cuttings come from healthy plants that are not stressed by malnutrition, insect damage or disease. A growing azalea branch that is brown but still flexible 3 to 6 inches from its tip with several healthy leaves is an ideal candidate. Dipping the blades of your cutting shears in rubbing alcohol and air-drying them is an effective way to avoid introducing diseases to your azalea and the cutting.
Preparing the Container
The Clemson University Cooperative Extension recommends starting azalea cuttings in a mix of peat and perlite in equal parts. Wetting the soil before you insert an azalea cutting encourages rooting and helps keep the cutting hydrated. You can use any planting container large enough to hold the cuttings that is clean and has drainage holes. You can sterilize used containers by rinsing them with a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water.
Preparing Azalea Cuttings
Removing the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting reduces the amount of nutrients and water it will lose before it can establish roots. Leave at least two leaves near the tip of the cutting. Trimming the stem just beneath the point where the first leaf attached to the cutting removes excess material that cannot form roots. Dipping the bottom third of the trimmed cutting in a powered rooting hormone improves its ability to generate new roots. Gently tap the cutting's stem to dislodge excess rooting hormone after dipping it.
Planting Azalea Cuttings
Cuttings often fail to take root, but planting several cuttings at the same time improves the odds that at least one will take. Azalea cuttings need 2 to 3 inches of space between the edge of the container and other cuttings to thrive. Insert each cutting into the soil until the bottom third of the stem is covered and gently firm the soil around the cutting's base to prevent it from falling over.
Caring for Azalea Cuttings
Cuttings can not replenish water they lose until they have formed new roots. Maintaining a high level of humidity around the leaves of the cuttings helps reduce water loss, preventing your cuttings from drying out. You can increase the humidity around an azalea cutting by misting its leaves with water and covering it with a clear plastic bag or the severed bottom half of a plastic 2-liter bottle. Once the cutting develops roots, the plastic cover can be removed. When the cutting develops resistance to a gentle tug, its roots have begun growing. Until the roots have had time to establish themselves fully, the cutting needs regular, light watering to keep the soil around the roots from drying out.
Safe Handling
Nearly all parts of azalea plants are toxic when consumed. Wearing gloves while working with cuttings and washing your tools and hands after you are finished helps prevent cases of accidental poisoning. Avoid eating or handling food while you are working with the cuttings.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
Tall and distinctive, pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) makes a showy statement in the landscape. Sometimes it's almost too showy -- the non-native plant is categorized as invasive in many areas, including parts of California. Pampas grass can also become a fire hazard if left untended. Keep this large plant under control by cutting it all the way back to the ground at least once a year.
Late Winter
Cut pampas grass back in late winter, before new growth appears. In general, pampas grass grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. It grows as a perennial in warmer areas, but it is not evergreen in freezing climates. Still, many cultivars are cold-hardy and can survive in climates lower than USDA zone 8. When cold weather sets in, the foliage and stems dry out, turning brown and becoming a fire hazard. Make room for new growth by cutting it back almost to the ground.
Cutting Methods
Pruning this plant is not a simple matter. At maturity, pampas grass can reach a maximum average height and spread of 10 feet. Because of the size of pampas grass, power pruners or hedge or lopping shears are most effective in cutting back the plants. Sterilize the pruning tools by dipping them in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts of water, then rinsing the tools before you start cutting. This will help prevent the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases. Protect yourself as well -- even dry, pampas grass leaves have sharp edges, and they will slice easily through your skin if you aren't careful. Wear long sleeves and gloves when cutting back the plant.
Combing Dead Foliage
Pampas grass is a vigorous grower and will grow to its maximum height -- or close to it -- in one season, so cutting it back to the ground won't really limit its size. If you don't have the tools to cut it all the way down, remove the dead foliage from the plant by combing it. Take a small garden rake and use it to grab and pull the dead foliage from the plant. Any dead leaves will easily pull away from the main plant. This will help clean up the appearance of the pampas grass without having to cut it all the way back.
Cutting the Plumes
Pampas grass is best known for its tall, feathery plumes. The striking plumes are often used in dried flower arrangements. If you'd like to harvest the prunes, use lopping shears to clip them off right after they fully open. If you wait too long, they will start shedding, especially in heavy rains or winds.
Late Winter
Cut pampas grass back in late winter, before new growth appears. In general, pampas grass grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. It grows as a perennial in warmer areas, but it is not evergreen in freezing climates. Still, many cultivars are cold-hardy and can survive in climates lower than USDA zone 8. When cold weather sets in, the foliage and stems dry out, turning brown and becoming a fire hazard. Make room for new growth by cutting it back almost to the ground.
Cutting Methods
Pruning this plant is not a simple matter. At maturity, pampas grass can reach a maximum average height and spread of 10 feet. Because of the size of pampas grass, power pruners or hedge or lopping shears are most effective in cutting back the plants. Sterilize the pruning tools by dipping them in a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts of water, then rinsing the tools before you start cutting. This will help prevent the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases. Protect yourself as well -- even dry, pampas grass leaves have sharp edges, and they will slice easily through your skin if you aren't careful. Wear long sleeves and gloves when cutting back the plant.
Combing Dead Foliage
Pampas grass is a vigorous grower and will grow to its maximum height -- or close to it -- in one season, so cutting it back to the ground won't really limit its size. If you don't have the tools to cut it all the way down, remove the dead foliage from the plant by combing it. Take a small garden rake and use it to grab and pull the dead foliage from the plant. Any dead leaves will easily pull away from the main plant. This will help clean up the appearance of the pampas grass without having to cut it all the way back.
Cutting the Plumes
Pampas grass is best known for its tall, feathery plumes. The striking plumes are often used in dried flower arrangements. If you'd like to harvest the prunes, use lopping shears to clip them off right after they fully open. If you wait too long, they will start shedding, especially in heavy rains or winds.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月03日
"Orange Star" plant (Guzmania lingulata "Orange Star") earned its common name with its showy orange flower bracts, which have a bold, starry shape. It grows best indoors, but will survive in a sheltered outdoor spot in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10a to 11. "Orange Star" plant needs little care once established in a warm, bright location. Regular care year-round will help enhance its appearance and keep it healthy.
Moisture Needs
"Orange Star" plant requires consistent soil moisture year-round, but the amount and frequency of watering depends on the season. In summer, water whenever the container's medium feels dry to the touch or the outdoor soil is dry. Watering once per week is usually sufficient. In winter, let the medium dry out completely to prevent root problems. Watering an "Orange Star" plant is simple: fill the empty space at the center of its foliage whorl with water until it trickles down the sides of the plant onto the medium. During hot or dry weather, it is best to keep a small amount of water in the center of the plant to maintain adequate humidity around the leaves. In winter or during cooler weather, let the water evaporate completely before adding more.
Fertilizer Advice
As with most bromeliads, an "Orange Star" plant needs little supplemental fertilizer to perform well. Light feeding during the summer will help encourage the production of pups, or offshoots, which means you'll have new plants to replace the original one. Feed the plant with half strength fertilizer from spring until late summer. Use a balanced fertilizer with an N-P-K number of 20-20-20 or 7-7-7. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of the fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. Replace one watering every six to eight weeks with the fertilizer solution, filling the foliage cup at the center of the plant. If the "Orange Star" plant produces lanky, discolored leaves or other signs of overfeeding, stop feeding for the remainder of the growing season.
Pest and Disease Problems
Even under the best growing conditions, an "Orange Star" plant sometimes suffers from infestations of scale insects, mealybugs or spider mites. If you only see a few, wipe the bugs off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. If the plant has a lot of pests, you'll need to use a chemical. One safe and relatively nontoxic means of killing pests is a 2 percent insecticidal soap solution. Mix 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with 1 quart of water in a spray bottle. Saturate the foliage and flower bract with the solution, paying special attention to areas where the leaves overlap. Repeat the application every five days until the pests are gone. Although insecticidal soap is not harmful to people, it is best to wear a dust mask and goggles to protect your nose, mouth and eyes when you use it.
Whether grown in containers or outdoors in the ground in frost-free locations, root rot is a problem for "Orange Star" plants grown in conditions that are too wet. Use a well draining mix, when growing the plants inside containers. Outdoors, the plant does not perform well in clay soils, which retains too much water leading to root rot. To keep rot from developing, grow "Orange Star" in soils that drain well. If needed, amend the planting site with 2 to 3 inches of compost to increase drainage and do not keep the site overly saturated with water.
Winter Care Tips
Winter is a difficult time for an "Orange Star" plant. Dry air and low temperatures make striking the correct indoor moisture balance around the plant difficult, and it may develop serious root issues or damaged foliage. To ensure its health during the winter, water sparingly and maintain humidity above 50 percent by placing the plant on a shallow, pebble-lined tray filled with water. The water shouldn't touch the bottom of the pot, it should only cover the pebbles halfway. As it evaporates, it will help increase the humidity around the "Orange Star" plant without making the soil wet. Also, move an indoor "Orange Star" plant away from heat vents to keep it from drying out.
To prevent winter damage, move outdoor containers to an indoor location before temperatures drop to freezing. If temperatures are expected to drop to 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below, remove any standing water in the cups of "Orange Star" plants grown outdoors to prevent winter damage. Protect outdoor plants by covering them with blankets, if an unexpected freeze occurs.
Moisture Needs
"Orange Star" plant requires consistent soil moisture year-round, but the amount and frequency of watering depends on the season. In summer, water whenever the container's medium feels dry to the touch or the outdoor soil is dry. Watering once per week is usually sufficient. In winter, let the medium dry out completely to prevent root problems. Watering an "Orange Star" plant is simple: fill the empty space at the center of its foliage whorl with water until it trickles down the sides of the plant onto the medium. During hot or dry weather, it is best to keep a small amount of water in the center of the plant to maintain adequate humidity around the leaves. In winter or during cooler weather, let the water evaporate completely before adding more.
Fertilizer Advice
As with most bromeliads, an "Orange Star" plant needs little supplemental fertilizer to perform well. Light feeding during the summer will help encourage the production of pups, or offshoots, which means you'll have new plants to replace the original one. Feed the plant with half strength fertilizer from spring until late summer. Use a balanced fertilizer with an N-P-K number of 20-20-20 or 7-7-7. Mix 1/2 teaspoon of the fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. Replace one watering every six to eight weeks with the fertilizer solution, filling the foliage cup at the center of the plant. If the "Orange Star" plant produces lanky, discolored leaves or other signs of overfeeding, stop feeding for the remainder of the growing season.
Pest and Disease Problems
Even under the best growing conditions, an "Orange Star" plant sometimes suffers from infestations of scale insects, mealybugs or spider mites. If you only see a few, wipe the bugs off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. If the plant has a lot of pests, you'll need to use a chemical. One safe and relatively nontoxic means of killing pests is a 2 percent insecticidal soap solution. Mix 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap concentrate with 1 quart of water in a spray bottle. Saturate the foliage and flower bract with the solution, paying special attention to areas where the leaves overlap. Repeat the application every five days until the pests are gone. Although insecticidal soap is not harmful to people, it is best to wear a dust mask and goggles to protect your nose, mouth and eyes when you use it.
Whether grown in containers or outdoors in the ground in frost-free locations, root rot is a problem for "Orange Star" plants grown in conditions that are too wet. Use a well draining mix, when growing the plants inside containers. Outdoors, the plant does not perform well in clay soils, which retains too much water leading to root rot. To keep rot from developing, grow "Orange Star" in soils that drain well. If needed, amend the planting site with 2 to 3 inches of compost to increase drainage and do not keep the site overly saturated with water.
Winter Care Tips
Winter is a difficult time for an "Orange Star" plant. Dry air and low temperatures make striking the correct indoor moisture balance around the plant difficult, and it may develop serious root issues or damaged foliage. To ensure its health during the winter, water sparingly and maintain humidity above 50 percent by placing the plant on a shallow, pebble-lined tray filled with water. The water shouldn't touch the bottom of the pot, it should only cover the pebbles halfway. As it evaporates, it will help increase the humidity around the "Orange Star" plant without making the soil wet. Also, move an indoor "Orange Star" plant away from heat vents to keep it from drying out.
To prevent winter damage, move outdoor containers to an indoor location before temperatures drop to freezing. If temperatures are expected to drop to 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below, remove any standing water in the cups of "Orange Star" plants grown outdoors to prevent winter damage. Protect outdoor plants by covering them with blankets, if an unexpected freeze occurs.
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