求助
Michub63
2018年09月01日
Please, what id for that plant?
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Michub63：thank you so much, have a nice day
sunnyzou：Bougainvillea glabra
求助
Martinez
2018年09月01日
Strawberry plant in small container nearly dead
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sunnyzou：Fusarium wilt
Martinez：Any tips on reviving. Colorado
文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Russian sage is a 3 to 5-foot tall perennial with purplish blue flowers and silver foliage. It has fragrant leaves and it blooms from mid-summer season to the fall. It is a good plant for fall color in the garden, to use for dried or cut flowers, or to attract butterflies. Russian sage can be propagated by division every three years in the spring season or fall.
Step 1
Make sure the plant isn't in active bloom and that the buds are dry. Russian sage is not in active bloom when the buds are dry, even though it may still look active.
Step 2
Cut down the stems to approximately 6 to 8 inches high with garden trimmers. After cutting, dig up the plant with a shovel, creating a wide circle around it to get as much rootball as can be salvaged.
Step 3
Remove soil around the roots and divide them into thirds if the plant is big enough, (in half if it is small). Pull the roots apart with your hands.
Step 4
Keep the roots in water while you are transplanting.
Step 5
Dig a new hole as deep as the length of the roots for divided plants with shovel, adding in manure and compost to add nutrients to the soil.
Step 6
Set the plant's crown at the surface of the dirt, pulling dirt around the plant's roots as you continue.
Step 7
Water Russian sage after the rootball has completely been covered in amended soil (soil with the added nutrients in step 5) and patted down (to ensure stability).
Step 8
Mulch around the plant when the ground is about to freeze, sometime before the first "hard freeze" in your area. Mulching prior to ground freeze will keep the plant insulated and ensure it survives the winter.
Step 1
Make sure the plant isn't in active bloom and that the buds are dry. Russian sage is not in active bloom when the buds are dry, even though it may still look active.
Step 2
Cut down the stems to approximately 6 to 8 inches high with garden trimmers. After cutting, dig up the plant with a shovel, creating a wide circle around it to get as much rootball as can be salvaged.
Step 3
Remove soil around the roots and divide them into thirds if the plant is big enough, (in half if it is small). Pull the roots apart with your hands.
Step 4
Keep the roots in water while you are transplanting.
Step 5
Dig a new hole as deep as the length of the roots for divided plants with shovel, adding in manure and compost to add nutrients to the soil.
Step 6
Set the plant's crown at the surface of the dirt, pulling dirt around the plant's roots as you continue.
Step 7
Water Russian sage after the rootball has completely been covered in amended soil (soil with the added nutrients in step 5) and patted down (to ensure stability).
Step 8
Mulch around the plant when the ground is about to freeze, sometime before the first "hard freeze" in your area. Mulching prior to ground freeze will keep the plant insulated and ensure it survives the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Russian sage blooms with bright purple flowers that resemble lavender, mixing well with its gray-green leaves and adding a depth of color to any garden. The hardy perennial plant is drought resistant, and though it carries the name "sage," is not part of the edible sage family. Move your Russian sage to ground that will not flood in the winter or dangerously soak the plants root system.
Preparing the Site
Loosen the soil and add compost to prepare the new growing site before transplanting Russian sage. The soil for growing Russian sage must be loose to encourage water to drain. Mixing compost into the planting site also helps drainage, and provides evenly moist soil. At any frost-free time of year, loosen the soil in the new growing site to a depth of 12 to 15 inches using a garden fork. Spread a layer of compost 2 to 4 inches thick, and mix it into the soil with the garden fork.
Digging Up Russian Sage
Russian sage requires careful removal to minimize damage to its root system. Growing 3- to 5-feet tall and 2- to 4-feet wide, Russian sage can have an extensive root system, and some damage is unavoidable. Digging up the plant carefully is unlikely to cause serious harm. Push a garden fork into the ground about 1 foot from the Russian sage's central stem, and lever the end of the fork upward. Repeat this around the plant's base, slowly working the root ball out of the soil. Wear gloves when handling the plant, since the leaves may cause irritation or an allergic reaction. Lift the plant out, and put it down on the soil's surface. Break off excess soil in areas that contain no roots, to lighten the plant's weight.
Moving Russian Sage
Take the Russian sage to its new growing site immediately after digging it up to prevent its roots from drying out. Russian sage is drought-tolerant and low-maintenance and should suffer few problems from transplanting, but replanting it right away increases the chances of success. Dig a hole 2 1/2 feet wide and as deep as the depth of the Russian sage's root ball, which is usually about 1 foot. Place the plant in the hole so that it's level and sitting at its original growing depth. You may need to add or remove soil at the base of the hole. Fill in the gaps around the root ball with dug soil, and gently firm the plant in its hole.
After Care
Regular watering helps Russian sage quickly establish in its new site. Water the Russian sage using a garden hose fitted with a spray attachment. Spray water over the root area until it begins to puddle, but avoid washing away soil. Through the rest of the growing season water Russian sage when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches. Russian sage grows sturdy, dense and upright if it is pruned in spring. Sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune all Russian sage stems to 6-inches tall in spring before new growth appears. Sterilize the pruning shears again after pruning.
Preparing the Site
Loosen the soil and add compost to prepare the new growing site before transplanting Russian sage. The soil for growing Russian sage must be loose to encourage water to drain. Mixing compost into the planting site also helps drainage, and provides evenly moist soil. At any frost-free time of year, loosen the soil in the new growing site to a depth of 12 to 15 inches using a garden fork. Spread a layer of compost 2 to 4 inches thick, and mix it into the soil with the garden fork.
Digging Up Russian Sage
Russian sage requires careful removal to minimize damage to its root system. Growing 3- to 5-feet tall and 2- to 4-feet wide, Russian sage can have an extensive root system, and some damage is unavoidable. Digging up the plant carefully is unlikely to cause serious harm. Push a garden fork into the ground about 1 foot from the Russian sage's central stem, and lever the end of the fork upward. Repeat this around the plant's base, slowly working the root ball out of the soil. Wear gloves when handling the plant, since the leaves may cause irritation or an allergic reaction. Lift the plant out, and put it down on the soil's surface. Break off excess soil in areas that contain no roots, to lighten the plant's weight.
Moving Russian Sage
Take the Russian sage to its new growing site immediately after digging it up to prevent its roots from drying out. Russian sage is drought-tolerant and low-maintenance and should suffer few problems from transplanting, but replanting it right away increases the chances of success. Dig a hole 2 1/2 feet wide and as deep as the depth of the Russian sage's root ball, which is usually about 1 foot. Place the plant in the hole so that it's level and sitting at its original growing depth. You may need to add or remove soil at the base of the hole. Fill in the gaps around the root ball with dug soil, and gently firm the plant in its hole.
After Care
Regular watering helps Russian sage quickly establish in its new site. Water the Russian sage using a garden hose fitted with a spray attachment. Spray water over the root area until it begins to puddle, but avoid washing away soil. Through the rest of the growing season water Russian sage when the soil is dry to a depth of 2 inches. Russian sage grows sturdy, dense and upright if it is pruned in spring. Sterilize pruning shear blades by wiping them with a cloth that was dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune all Russian sage stems to 6-inches tall in spring before new growth appears. Sterilize the pruning shears again after pruning.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
A standby in the butterfly garden, milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, provides the sole food source for monarch butterfly caterpillars. This 2 to 3-foot-tall perennial flowers through the summer and is one of several nectar sources for the adult monarch butterflies. With little required care, milkweed is a smart choice for meadows and wild areas of the yard.
Seed Control
Milkweed is best grown in naturalized areas and meadows as it tends to spread and take over more formal garden settings. You can keep it in check by plucking off all the flowers before they turn into seedpods. Use a pair of pruning shears. After clipping, rinse the blades in a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 1 part water then let them dry before storing. Milkweed also spreads -- sometimes aggressively -- by its roots.
Milkweed and Larvae
Monarch butterfly caterpillars rely on the milkweed's leaves for food, but they leave holes behind when they feed. Because of this, milkweed works best in an informal garden setting where the feeding caterpillars can leave ragged-looking plants without ruining your manicured gardens. The caterpillars are easy to find with their striking yellow, white and black stripes.
Slug Problems
While resistant to disease, milkweed does attract slugs. These slow-moving, leaf-eating garden pests damage leaves and flowers when given a chance. If you notice large holes in the leaves, check for slugs -- the best time is after dark with a flashlight -- under the leaves every two to three days. Bring a bucket of water with 1 capful of dish soap added with you. As you pick off the slugs, drop them in the bucket. The soap kills the slugs, eliminating the unpleasant task of crushing them. Wear gardening gloves if you don't like touching the slugs.
Milkweed Aphids
Milkweed aphids suck sap from the plant's leaves. While natural predators usually keep aphids in check, you can use insecticidal soap for severe infestations. Spray the aphids directly with a ready-to-use product until they are saturated. Be careful not to get any on monarch butterfly caterpillars. Because milkweed is such an important plant for the monarch butterfly, avoid treatments when possible and don't use harsher chemical treatments. Sometimes simply spraying aphids with a strong jet of water is enough to get rid of them. Don't mistake the aphids for monarch eggs. Monarch butterflies commonly lay a single egg on each milkweed plant under a leaf. The milkweed aphids are yellow and generally live in colonies while the egg is and white and commonly on its own.
Winter Care and Toxicity
Milkweed plants survive the winter in cold regions by going dormant. In fall, adding a 3- to 4-inch-deep layer of mulch helps insulate the soil. While not required, this helps keep the ground from freezing and thawing and disrupting the roots. In spring, pull back the mulch to give space to the new growth. Plant milkweed away from areas where small children or pets spend time as the leaves are toxic if eaten.
Seed Control
Milkweed is best grown in naturalized areas and meadows as it tends to spread and take over more formal garden settings. You can keep it in check by plucking off all the flowers before they turn into seedpods. Use a pair of pruning shears. After clipping, rinse the blades in a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 1 part water then let them dry before storing. Milkweed also spreads -- sometimes aggressively -- by its roots.
Milkweed and Larvae
Monarch butterfly caterpillars rely on the milkweed's leaves for food, but they leave holes behind when they feed. Because of this, milkweed works best in an informal garden setting where the feeding caterpillars can leave ragged-looking plants without ruining your manicured gardens. The caterpillars are easy to find with their striking yellow, white and black stripes.
Slug Problems
While resistant to disease, milkweed does attract slugs. These slow-moving, leaf-eating garden pests damage leaves and flowers when given a chance. If you notice large holes in the leaves, check for slugs -- the best time is after dark with a flashlight -- under the leaves every two to three days. Bring a bucket of water with 1 capful of dish soap added with you. As you pick off the slugs, drop them in the bucket. The soap kills the slugs, eliminating the unpleasant task of crushing them. Wear gardening gloves if you don't like touching the slugs.
Milkweed Aphids
Milkweed aphids suck sap from the plant's leaves. While natural predators usually keep aphids in check, you can use insecticidal soap for severe infestations. Spray the aphids directly with a ready-to-use product until they are saturated. Be careful not to get any on monarch butterfly caterpillars. Because milkweed is such an important plant for the monarch butterfly, avoid treatments when possible and don't use harsher chemical treatments. Sometimes simply spraying aphids with a strong jet of water is enough to get rid of them. Don't mistake the aphids for monarch eggs. Monarch butterflies commonly lay a single egg on each milkweed plant under a leaf. The milkweed aphids are yellow and generally live in colonies while the egg is and white and commonly on its own.
Winter Care and Toxicity
Milkweed plants survive the winter in cold regions by going dormant. In fall, adding a 3- to 4-inch-deep layer of mulch helps insulate the soil. While not required, this helps keep the ground from freezing and thawing and disrupting the roots. In spring, pull back the mulch to give space to the new growth. Plant milkweed away from areas where small children or pets spend time as the leaves are toxic if eaten.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年09月01日
Petunias (Petunia spp.) grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 10 and are broken into four categories of grandiflora, multiflora, milliflora and spreading types, but they are often treated as annuals. Though a prolonged frost can kill petunias, including new transplants, established and older transplants usually can survive a light frost, according to Colorado State University Extension. Cells within plant stems and roots freeze and burst when the temperature cools quickly during a frost, which can kill tender perennials. Prompt plant protection can help petunias survive a frost, as long as the temperature below 32 degrees Fahrenheit aren't prolonged. You also can protect newly planted petunias in spring or early summer when a late frost occurs. If frost damage does occur, wait until all danger of frost has left your area before pruning affected foliage.
Wise Watering
Moisture increases humidity, and humid air and moist soil can hold warmth better than dry air. Water the petunias thoroughly the day before the expected frost, but avoid watering during the cold period because moisture on the leaves can cause damage. Irrigate potted petunia plants until the excess moisture just begins to drip from the pots' bottom drainage holes, and water petunias planted in the ground until the top 6 inches of their soil feels moist but not soggy to your touch.
Planter Protection
Potted petunias require the least effort to protect during cool temperatures. Simply take the pots indoors during the frost or move them to another protected area, such as an unheated shed or garage. Placing them under a patio awning may provide sufficient protection during a brief frost. If the pots are too heavy to move easily, then protect the petunias using the same methods as you would for petunias planted in the ground..
Mulch Matters
A layer of mulch on top of soil insulates plant roots and helps conserve warmth in the soil. Mulch can prevent petunia roots from becoming too cold during a brief frost and may even provide sufficient protection for the petunia foliage. Use dry leaves or a straw mulch for frost protection. Mound the mulch over the plants after irrigation, and completely cover the crowns, where stems and roots merge. Remove the mulch covering the crowns and foliage only after the danger of frost passes, but leave a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch over the soil to continue insulating the roots.
Creative Covers
Covering the petunias protects their flowers and foliage from a brief frost. If daytime temperatures are warm between nights with frost, then an option is to cover the petunias overnight and uncover them during the day. Insert stakes around the petunias to elevate the cover so it doesn't touch any foliage. Drape a blanket, cloth sheet or plastic over the stakes, anchoring the cover's edges to the ground with a mound of soil or small rocks. The cover will trap soil warmth and keep frost off the petunias. You also can place a string of holiday lights around the petunias and turn on the lights to generate some heat under the cover, but place the lights so they don't actually touch the cover.
Care Concerns
Warming cold petunias too quickly in the morning can result in further damage after the frost has passed. If their area receives direct morning sunlight, then vent the cover so the air doesn't warm too quickly and cause the moisture in the plant cells to overheat and the cells to burst. Remove the cover after the temperature beneath it and in the surrounding air stabilizes. If the foliage or flowers die back due to frost, then trim back the dead foliage and stems, but wipe the shears you use with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them before pruning. The petunias will grow back from the plant crowns if the roots survived the frost.
Wise Watering
Moisture increases humidity, and humid air and moist soil can hold warmth better than dry air. Water the petunias thoroughly the day before the expected frost, but avoid watering during the cold period because moisture on the leaves can cause damage. Irrigate potted petunia plants until the excess moisture just begins to drip from the pots' bottom drainage holes, and water petunias planted in the ground until the top 6 inches of their soil feels moist but not soggy to your touch.
Planter Protection
Potted petunias require the least effort to protect during cool temperatures. Simply take the pots indoors during the frost or move them to another protected area, such as an unheated shed or garage. Placing them under a patio awning may provide sufficient protection during a brief frost. If the pots are too heavy to move easily, then protect the petunias using the same methods as you would for petunias planted in the ground..
Mulch Matters
A layer of mulch on top of soil insulates plant roots and helps conserve warmth in the soil. Mulch can prevent petunia roots from becoming too cold during a brief frost and may even provide sufficient protection for the petunia foliage. Use dry leaves or a straw mulch for frost protection. Mound the mulch over the plants after irrigation, and completely cover the crowns, where stems and roots merge. Remove the mulch covering the crowns and foliage only after the danger of frost passes, but leave a 2-inch-thick layer of mulch over the soil to continue insulating the roots.
Creative Covers
Covering the petunias protects their flowers and foliage from a brief frost. If daytime temperatures are warm between nights with frost, then an option is to cover the petunias overnight and uncover them during the day. Insert stakes around the petunias to elevate the cover so it doesn't touch any foliage. Drape a blanket, cloth sheet or plastic over the stakes, anchoring the cover's edges to the ground with a mound of soil or small rocks. The cover will trap soil warmth and keep frost off the petunias. You also can place a string of holiday lights around the petunias and turn on the lights to generate some heat under the cover, but place the lights so they don't actually touch the cover.
Care Concerns
Warming cold petunias too quickly in the morning can result in further damage after the frost has passed. If their area receives direct morning sunlight, then vent the cover so the air doesn't warm too quickly and cause the moisture in the plant cells to overheat and the cells to burst. Remove the cover after the temperature beneath it and in the surrounding air stabilizes. If the foliage or flowers die back due to frost, then trim back the dead foliage and stems, but wipe the shears you use with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol to disinfect them before pruning. The petunias will grow back from the plant crowns if the roots survived the frost.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Sometimes called purple queen, purple heart (Setcreasea pallida) is a low-growing tender perennial grown for its showy violet leaves and sprawling, dark-purple stems. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11 and it's usually used as a ground cover or container plant. Purple heart needs little care, but providing some general maintenance will keep it looking its best.
Seasonal Watering
Although highly drought-tolerant once established, purple heart will look tidier and more lush if it gets regular water in summer. Water it weekly from spring until fall, providing 1 inch of water each time. Allow the soil to dry out on the surface between waterings to keep the roots healthy. During times of extreme heat or drought, increase watering to twice weekly if the soil is drying out faster than normal. Reduce watering to once every two weeks in winter and provide no water during rainy weather. Pot-grown purple hearts should also be watered whenever the soil dries on the surface. Water until the excess flows from the drainage holes of the pot. Always use pots with drainage holes for this plant.
Fertilizer Needs
Purple heart uses its soil nutrients efficiently and requires little supplemental fertilizer. Potted plants or those grown in poor or especially fast-draining soil may need a boost of nutrients during the active growing season to enhance their lush, violet foliage. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of general-purpose, 15-15-15 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Apply the solution monthly and watch for pale or washed out-looking foliage, which is a sign of overfeeding. Reduce feeding to once every two months if the purple heart's foliage turns pale or if it starts producing an abundance of leggy, weedy growth.
Pruning and Grooming
Among purple heart's most positive attributes is its gracefully trailing habit and vigorous growth. This is also one of its greatest drawbacks because can quickly overtake a bed or produce spindly, unattractive growth if left unpruned. Pruning purple heart should be done in spring or early summer just after it finishes flowering. Remove up to two-thirds of the growth to promote a fuller, bushier appearance and encourage more blooming. Before pruning, soak your shears in a solution of equal parts water and rubbing alcohol or full-strength household disinfectant for five minutes and then rinse the blades. The pruned stems can be discarded in a green waste can or used to propagate new purple heart plants.
Considerations
Purple heart doesn't have serious pest or disease issues if it is grown under the right conditions, making it a smart choice for a low-maintenance yard. But it does have some significant drawbacks that may cause issues in your garden. Its vigorous growth may become invasive in warm, frost-free climates. Keeping it pruned helps limit its spread, but it may also require inorganic mulch or an underground root barrier to keep its roots from spreading. Another issue with purple heart is its foliage, which may irritate the skin. Growing it in a pot will address both concerns, as long as the pot is kept away from where people might accidentally brush against it.
Seasonal Watering
Although highly drought-tolerant once established, purple heart will look tidier and more lush if it gets regular water in summer. Water it weekly from spring until fall, providing 1 inch of water each time. Allow the soil to dry out on the surface between waterings to keep the roots healthy. During times of extreme heat or drought, increase watering to twice weekly if the soil is drying out faster than normal. Reduce watering to once every two weeks in winter and provide no water during rainy weather. Pot-grown purple hearts should also be watered whenever the soil dries on the surface. Water until the excess flows from the drainage holes of the pot. Always use pots with drainage holes for this plant.
Fertilizer Needs
Purple heart uses its soil nutrients efficiently and requires little supplemental fertilizer. Potted plants or those grown in poor or especially fast-draining soil may need a boost of nutrients during the active growing season to enhance their lush, violet foliage. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of general-purpose, 15-15-15 ratio fertilizer in 1 gallon of water. Apply the solution monthly and watch for pale or washed out-looking foliage, which is a sign of overfeeding. Reduce feeding to once every two months if the purple heart's foliage turns pale or if it starts producing an abundance of leggy, weedy growth.
Pruning and Grooming
Among purple heart's most positive attributes is its gracefully trailing habit and vigorous growth. This is also one of its greatest drawbacks because can quickly overtake a bed or produce spindly, unattractive growth if left unpruned. Pruning purple heart should be done in spring or early summer just after it finishes flowering. Remove up to two-thirds of the growth to promote a fuller, bushier appearance and encourage more blooming. Before pruning, soak your shears in a solution of equal parts water and rubbing alcohol or full-strength household disinfectant for five minutes and then rinse the blades. The pruned stems can be discarded in a green waste can or used to propagate new purple heart plants.
Considerations
Purple heart doesn't have serious pest or disease issues if it is grown under the right conditions, making it a smart choice for a low-maintenance yard. But it does have some significant drawbacks that may cause issues in your garden. Its vigorous growth may become invasive in warm, frost-free climates. Keeping it pruned helps limit its spread, but it may also require inorganic mulch or an underground root barrier to keep its roots from spreading. Another issue with purple heart is its foliage, which may irritate the skin. Growing it in a pot will address both concerns, as long as the pot is kept away from where people might accidentally brush against it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月31日
Hellebore is the common spelling for Helleborus spp., a genus of flowering perennials that grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on species. Ideally, transplant hellebores during their dormant period in fall. The popular variety lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis), hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9, adapts most readily to transplanting. Regardless of species, it may take two to three years for plants to fully recover after a move and start blooming with their previous abundance.
Relocation and Bed Preparation
Ideally, transplant hellebores at one or two years old. You can still transplant more mature, established hellebores, but success rate and recovery time will vary.
Hellebores thrive in light shade and moist, organically rich soil. Before transplanting, prepare the bed at the new location by mixing compost with the soil. Use a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer spread evenly over the bed, then dig it 12 inches deep into the soil. Adding the compost before transplanting hellebores provides the high amount organic matter these perennials enjoy.
There's no need to cut back hellebores before transplanting.
Digging and Transplanting
Use a shovel to dig out and lift the root ball from the soil. To get enough of the roots, look at the drip line -- the soil under the outer leaf tips -- and dig the root ball the same diameter.
Dig a hole at the new planting site the same depth and slightly wider than the root mass.
Set the hellebore in the hole -- adjust the soil level at the bottom until the point where the roots meet the stem sits level with the soil -- then fill in around the root ball. Use the same soil you just dug out to fill the hole.
Water and Mulching
Water right after transplanting. This settles the soil, minimizes transplant shock and helps the roots adapt quickly to the new environment. Water when the top of the soil feels dry through any remaining dry fall weather.
Mulch the bed to keep the soil moist after transplanting. The mulch layer also provides some cold protection over winter. Use 2 to 3 inches of compost spread evenly over the soil but leave 1 to 2 inches of space between the hellebore stalks and the compost. This helps minimize rot and insect problems.
Transplanting Seedlings
When mature hellebores go to seed after flowering, new seedlings grow the following spring near the parent plant. You can transplant these seedlings in the spring, either into pots or to fill out new areas of the garden. Transplant them when they are big enough to handle, and before new foliage on the parent plant blocks the sun. Dig out the seedlings with a small trowel, being careful not to disrupt the root ball. Replant them in moist soil and light shade.
To plant the seedlings in pots, select containers at least 8 inches in diameter with drainage holes, filled with potting soil.
Relocation and Bed Preparation
Ideally, transplant hellebores at one or two years old. You can still transplant more mature, established hellebores, but success rate and recovery time will vary.
Hellebores thrive in light shade and moist, organically rich soil. Before transplanting, prepare the bed at the new location by mixing compost with the soil. Use a 2- to 3-inch-thick layer spread evenly over the bed, then dig it 12 inches deep into the soil. Adding the compost before transplanting hellebores provides the high amount organic matter these perennials enjoy.
There's no need to cut back hellebores before transplanting.
Digging and Transplanting
Use a shovel to dig out and lift the root ball from the soil. To get enough of the roots, look at the drip line -- the soil under the outer leaf tips -- and dig the root ball the same diameter.
Dig a hole at the new planting site the same depth and slightly wider than the root mass.
Set the hellebore in the hole -- adjust the soil level at the bottom until the point where the roots meet the stem sits level with the soil -- then fill in around the root ball. Use the same soil you just dug out to fill the hole.
Water and Mulching
Water right after transplanting. This settles the soil, minimizes transplant shock and helps the roots adapt quickly to the new environment. Water when the top of the soil feels dry through any remaining dry fall weather.
Mulch the bed to keep the soil moist after transplanting. The mulch layer also provides some cold protection over winter. Use 2 to 3 inches of compost spread evenly over the soil but leave 1 to 2 inches of space between the hellebore stalks and the compost. This helps minimize rot and insect problems.
Transplanting Seedlings
When mature hellebores go to seed after flowering, new seedlings grow the following spring near the parent plant. You can transplant these seedlings in the spring, either into pots or to fill out new areas of the garden. Transplant them when they are big enough to handle, and before new foliage on the parent plant blocks the sun. Dig out the seedlings with a small trowel, being careful not to disrupt the root ball. Replant them in moist soil and light shade.
To plant the seedlings in pots, select containers at least 8 inches in diameter with drainage holes, filled with potting soil.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
A miniature daylily with enormous ornamental punch, "Stella de Oro" (Hemerocallis "Stella de Oro") packs an abundance of riches onto its 1-foot high frame. In U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, its buttery-gold, ruffled trumpet flowers open from late spring to late summer. In mild-winter areas, its gracefully arching foliage remains green all year. Plant it properly, and one "Stella de Oro" may eventually produce 400 blooms in a single growing season.
When to Plant
Climate dictates the best time of year to plant bare-root "Stella de Oro." In hot-summer, mild-winter climates where the soil doesn't freeze, fall planting lets them establish and leaf out before extremely hot temperatures arrive.
In cold-winter climates, plant bare-root "Stella de Oro" in spring at least 60 days before summer temperatures are likely to peak. Planting in fall increases the chances of the roots' not establishing before the ground freezes.
As long as their root balls aren't disturbed, nursery container plants can go in the ground whenever the soil is workable.
Where to Plant
For maximum flowering, "Stella de Oro" needs at least six hours of daily sun. In most cases, plants in direct afternoon sun produce more flowers than those getting mostly morning sun. The exceptions are plants in very hot summer climates, and -- in some instances -- those planted in the shade of light-colored buildings.
Give hot-climate plants full morning sun, with shade between noon and late afternoon. Indirect, reflected light may be enough for the building-shaded plants to bloom their best; if it's not, they're easily transplanted. "Stella d'Oro" rarely flowers in deep shade.
Never plant "Stella de Oro" where its toxic leaves might tempt the family cat.
Site Preparation
Prepare a site large enough to space the "Stella de Oro" daylilies 1 to 1 1/2 feet apart.
Loosen the top 1 to 1 1/2 feet of the planting bed with a spade or tiller and work in a 3- to 4-inch layer of an organic soil amendment, such as well-aged compost or manure.
Also work in a granulated fertilizer with a 3:1:2 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous and potash, as indicated by the N-P-K numbers on the label. One manufacturer, for example, recommends lightly scratching 1 1/4 cups of its 6-2-4 fertilizer granules into each 10 square feet of soil and watering well.
Follow your fertilizer label's application instructions, because brands vary according to formula.
Planting Methods
If the bare-root plants' roots are dry, submerge them in water for one or two hours before planting. Water a dry potted "Stella de Oro" until liquid runs from its drainage holes.
Cut bare-root plants' leaf fans back to 6 to 8 inches above the roots, trimming the tops into inverted "Vs." Use clean, sharp scissors disinfected between cuts in rubbing alcohol.
Dig holes wide enough for the roots. In a cold-winter climate, dig deeply enough for roots' tops to sit 1 inch below the soil line; elsewhere 1/2 inch is acceptable.
Hold a bare-root plant upright, center it in a hole and backfill with loose soil. Hold a container plant by its base, invert the container and slowly slide it free. Shake the rootball gently and trim damaged or encircling rots with sharp, disinfected stem cutters. Spread the roots, center it in a hole and backfill.
Tamp the soil lightly to eliminate air pockets. Water the transplants deeply enough to soak the roots, and cover the planting bed with a 2- to 3-inch layer of moisture-retaining organic mulch.
Watering After Planting
To establish quickly and perform well, "Stella de Oro" needs 1 inch of weekly rain or supplemental water, or about 6 gallons per 10 square feet of soil.
When the top 2 to 4 inches of soil feel dry or are too compacted to dig easily, water slowly so that the moisture sinks to the roots. For plants in loamy or clay soil, one weekly watering is generally enough. In sandy soil, water twice weekly with one-half the required amount.
When to Plant
Climate dictates the best time of year to plant bare-root "Stella de Oro." In hot-summer, mild-winter climates where the soil doesn't freeze, fall planting lets them establish and leaf out before extremely hot temperatures arrive.
In cold-winter climates, plant bare-root "Stella de Oro" in spring at least 60 days before summer temperatures are likely to peak. Planting in fall increases the chances of the roots' not establishing before the ground freezes.
As long as their root balls aren't disturbed, nursery container plants can go in the ground whenever the soil is workable.
Where to Plant
For maximum flowering, "Stella de Oro" needs at least six hours of daily sun. In most cases, plants in direct afternoon sun produce more flowers than those getting mostly morning sun. The exceptions are plants in very hot summer climates, and -- in some instances -- those planted in the shade of light-colored buildings.
Give hot-climate plants full morning sun, with shade between noon and late afternoon. Indirect, reflected light may be enough for the building-shaded plants to bloom their best; if it's not, they're easily transplanted. "Stella d'Oro" rarely flowers in deep shade.
Never plant "Stella de Oro" where its toxic leaves might tempt the family cat.
Site Preparation
Prepare a site large enough to space the "Stella de Oro" daylilies 1 to 1 1/2 feet apart.
Loosen the top 1 to 1 1/2 feet of the planting bed with a spade or tiller and work in a 3- to 4-inch layer of an organic soil amendment, such as well-aged compost or manure.
Also work in a granulated fertilizer with a 3:1:2 ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous and potash, as indicated by the N-P-K numbers on the label. One manufacturer, for example, recommends lightly scratching 1 1/4 cups of its 6-2-4 fertilizer granules into each 10 square feet of soil and watering well.
Follow your fertilizer label's application instructions, because brands vary according to formula.
Planting Methods
If the bare-root plants' roots are dry, submerge them in water for one or two hours before planting. Water a dry potted "Stella de Oro" until liquid runs from its drainage holes.
Cut bare-root plants' leaf fans back to 6 to 8 inches above the roots, trimming the tops into inverted "Vs." Use clean, sharp scissors disinfected between cuts in rubbing alcohol.
Dig holes wide enough for the roots. In a cold-winter climate, dig deeply enough for roots' tops to sit 1 inch below the soil line; elsewhere 1/2 inch is acceptable.
Hold a bare-root plant upright, center it in a hole and backfill with loose soil. Hold a container plant by its base, invert the container and slowly slide it free. Shake the rootball gently and trim damaged or encircling rots with sharp, disinfected stem cutters. Spread the roots, center it in a hole and backfill.
Tamp the soil lightly to eliminate air pockets. Water the transplants deeply enough to soak the roots, and cover the planting bed with a 2- to 3-inch layer of moisture-retaining organic mulch.
Watering After Planting
To establish quickly and perform well, "Stella de Oro" needs 1 inch of weekly rain or supplemental water, or about 6 gallons per 10 square feet of soil.
When the top 2 to 4 inches of soil feel dry or are too compacted to dig easily, water slowly so that the moisture sinks to the roots. For plants in loamy or clay soil, one weekly watering is generally enough. In sandy soil, water twice weekly with one-half the required amount.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum X superbum) are undemanding plants, but pruning encourages more flowers and stronger growth. These perennials grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9, and thrive in full sun and well-drained, alkaline soils. They benefit from pruning from mid-summer onward, and dividing plants also encourages healthy growth. Shasta daisies grow 2 to 3 feet tall and 1 1/2 to 2 feet wide, depending on the cultivar.
Fading Flowers
Pruning Shasta daisy blooms as they fade encourages more flowers. Shasta daisies can flower less after they set seed, but removing the flowers before seeds develop prompts the plants to bloom again. Sterilize your pruning shear blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol, and prune Shasta daisies when their petals droop and turn brown. Hold the flower in one hand and feel down to the base of the flower stem with the other hand. Prune the stem at the base, and remove the other fading blooms in the same way. Sterilize your pruning shears again after use.
Summer Pruning
Shasta daises benefit from pruning when the earliest blooms start to fade. Check your Shasta daisies every week, and prune fading flowers until late summer or the end of blooming. If the soil surface is dry after pruning, water plants until the water begins to puddle on the ground, and feed them with a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer, which encourages more blooms. Dilute the product at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and apply it every 14 days, or dilute and apply the product according to the instructions on the label.
Pruning Clumps
Severely pruning Shasta daisy clumps in early fall can prolong their lives. Shasta daisies are short-lived perennials, but removing their leaves and stems when flowering is over encourages strong growth, which helps plants store energy for winter. Prune Shasta daisies to 8 inches tall, using sterilized pruning shears, and put the trimmings on the compost pile or in the trash. If your plants are too tall and lanky, pinch out the tips of non-flowering stems with your thumb and forefinger in spring to encourage them to grow more compact and bushy.
Lifting and Dividing
Lift and divide Shasta daisies every two or three years to encourage strong, healthy growth and flowering. Dig up a Shasta daisy plant on a cool, cloudy day in winter or early spring by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 6 inches from the plant base and gently levering it up. Do this three or four times around the base until the root ball lifts out of the soil. Divide the plant into three sections by pushing a sharp spade down through the roots, and plant the sections 24 to 36 inches apart at their original growing depths. Water the plants thoroughly and continue to water them regularly so that the soil stays moist.
Fading Flowers
Pruning Shasta daisy blooms as they fade encourages more flowers. Shasta daisies can flower less after they set seed, but removing the flowers before seeds develop prompts the plants to bloom again. Sterilize your pruning shear blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol, and prune Shasta daisies when their petals droop and turn brown. Hold the flower in one hand and feel down to the base of the flower stem with the other hand. Prune the stem at the base, and remove the other fading blooms in the same way. Sterilize your pruning shears again after use.
Summer Pruning
Shasta daises benefit from pruning when the earliest blooms start to fade. Check your Shasta daisies every week, and prune fading flowers until late summer or the end of blooming. If the soil surface is dry after pruning, water plants until the water begins to puddle on the ground, and feed them with a liquid 15-30-15 fertilizer, which encourages more blooms. Dilute the product at a rate of 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water and apply it every 14 days, or dilute and apply the product according to the instructions on the label.
Pruning Clumps
Severely pruning Shasta daisy clumps in early fall can prolong their lives. Shasta daisies are short-lived perennials, but removing their leaves and stems when flowering is over encourages strong growth, which helps plants store energy for winter. Prune Shasta daisies to 8 inches tall, using sterilized pruning shears, and put the trimmings on the compost pile or in the trash. If your plants are too tall and lanky, pinch out the tips of non-flowering stems with your thumb and forefinger in spring to encourage them to grow more compact and bushy.
Lifting and Dividing
Lift and divide Shasta daisies every two or three years to encourage strong, healthy growth and flowering. Dig up a Shasta daisy plant on a cool, cloudy day in winter or early spring by pushing a garden fork into the soil about 6 inches from the plant base and gently levering it up. Do this three or four times around the base until the root ball lifts out of the soil. Divide the plant into three sections by pushing a sharp spade down through the roots, and plant the sections 24 to 36 inches apart at their original growing depths. Water the plants thoroughly and continue to water them regularly so that the soil stays moist.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月30日
Sometimes, divide and conquer is the best way to deal with unruly established hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) or those that you planted in too tight a spot. You can use the same technique recommended for dividing most perennials -- digging up the plant at the most auspicious moment and dividing the root clump into two or more plants.
Hefty Hydrangeas
You thought your kids grew fast -- that small hydrangea pot you purchase today at the garden store won't waste any time in expanding, if you provide well-drained soil, partial sun and sufficient irrigation. A clump of hydrangeas 10 feet tall and with an even larger width is not unusual, and these plants grow fast in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, depending on species. If your established plant outgrows its space, it may be time to split the baby.
Dividing a Hydrangea
The trickiest part about dividing hydrangeas is to figure out the ideal time. Many tout spring as the perfect moment, just after the plant leaves dormancy and fine weather is just around the corner. But according to experts at Perennials.com, the only perennials that should be divided in spring are those that flower after mid-June. Those that flower before mid-June do best when divided in the fall, just before dormancy. With hydrangeas, the time the shrub flowers depends on the species and cultivar.
What Flowers When
Five types of hydrangeas are cultivated in the United States, and the most popular species is the well-known bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) that thrives in USDA zones 5 through 11. Bigleaf, as well as several other hydrangea species, begins blooming in midsummer and carries on through August or September, depending on cultivar and climate. These hydrangeas should be divided in the spring. If your hydrangea blooms before mid-June, you should divide in late fall.
Long Division
If you're dividing your hydrangea in spring, wait until you see an inch or two of new shoots, and then dig up the clump. Using a narrow, long spade -- termed a rabbiting spade -- dig a deep circle around the clump, and then pry the root ball out of the ground and set it on a tarp. Knock or wash off loose soil. Cut the clump into two or more pieces with a clean, sterilized garden knife, trying to find a natural point of separation if possible. Cut each of these pieces into sections again if the size of the clump merits it. Each section should have both green shoots above and roots below.
Replanting the Pieces
Replant the sections immediately in moist, well-drained soil in a location that gets afternoon sun. If you have a bigleaf hydrangea, remember that the flowers will turn blue in acidic soil and pink in alkaline soil. Plant each piece at about the same depth as it was growing. Water the area well after planting, and add a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost over the root area, keeping it a few inches from the hydrangea stem.
Hefty Hydrangeas
You thought your kids grew fast -- that small hydrangea pot you purchase today at the garden store won't waste any time in expanding, if you provide well-drained soil, partial sun and sufficient irrigation. A clump of hydrangeas 10 feet tall and with an even larger width is not unusual, and these plants grow fast in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, depending on species. If your established plant outgrows its space, it may be time to split the baby.
Dividing a Hydrangea
The trickiest part about dividing hydrangeas is to figure out the ideal time. Many tout spring as the perfect moment, just after the plant leaves dormancy and fine weather is just around the corner. But according to experts at Perennials.com, the only perennials that should be divided in spring are those that flower after mid-June. Those that flower before mid-June do best when divided in the fall, just before dormancy. With hydrangeas, the time the shrub flowers depends on the species and cultivar.
What Flowers When
Five types of hydrangeas are cultivated in the United States, and the most popular species is the well-known bigleaf (Hydrangea macrophylla) that thrives in USDA zones 5 through 11. Bigleaf, as well as several other hydrangea species, begins blooming in midsummer and carries on through August or September, depending on cultivar and climate. These hydrangeas should be divided in the spring. If your hydrangea blooms before mid-June, you should divide in late fall.
Long Division
If you're dividing your hydrangea in spring, wait until you see an inch or two of new shoots, and then dig up the clump. Using a narrow, long spade -- termed a rabbiting spade -- dig a deep circle around the clump, and then pry the root ball out of the ground and set it on a tarp. Knock or wash off loose soil. Cut the clump into two or more pieces with a clean, sterilized garden knife, trying to find a natural point of separation if possible. Cut each of these pieces into sections again if the size of the clump merits it. Each section should have both green shoots above and roots below.
Replanting the Pieces
Replant the sections immediately in moist, well-drained soil in a location that gets afternoon sun. If you have a bigleaf hydrangea, remember that the flowers will turn blue in acidic soil and pink in alkaline soil. Plant each piece at about the same depth as it was growing. Water the area well after planting, and add a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic compost over the root area, keeping it a few inches from the hydrangea stem.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月29日
Salvia (Salvia spp.), commonly known as sage, is a plant group that ranges from annuals to woody perennials hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. Many varieties are used for cooking and present fragrant ornamental foliage. Aromatic blooms range from white to shades of pink, red or purple-blue. Sages may flower from spring through fall, or deliver seasonal flushes of color. Perennial sages often develop old, woody stems and require pruning to stay attractive. This cleans up the plant and elicits a second burst of blooms and growth. If your sage looks a little listless, a haircut may be all it needs.
Sterilize your pruning implements with household disinfectant before and after your prune your sage to prevent the spread of disease. Use sharp, bypass pruning shears for clean, healthy cuts on woody stems. Garden scissors shape up soft annual and perennials stems. Wear gloves to protect your hands.
Prune off dead and damaged sage stems any time of year, but leave most stems until spring when the plant begins to grow again and danger of frost has passed. The old stems, though unsightly, protect new growth. When new shoots emerge at the plant's the base and on stems, cut old woody stems back to new growth. Cut dead, soft stems to the ground.
Trim soft-stemmed perennial sages in the summer to encourage re-blooming. Wait until after the first burst of blooms, then remove at least half of the plant. If you have a mass planting of sage, cut plants at different levels to keep a natural look. The plants will reward you by bouncing back quickly with renewed vigor and lots of blossoms.
Deadhead sage to remove old flower spikes throughout the growing season. This helps encourage more blooms, shape the plant and neaten its appearance. Hold the end of a spent flower spike and move down with your other hand until just below the bloom. This method prevents you from chopping off a stalk you don't want to cut.
Pick up all fallen leaves, spent flower heads and pruned stems around your sage. If there is any sign of disease, dispose of the debris instead of composting it. This reduces the chances of fungal infections spreading. Always check for signs of pests, but sages have few problems with insects.
Sterilize your pruning implements with household disinfectant before and after your prune your sage to prevent the spread of disease. Use sharp, bypass pruning shears for clean, healthy cuts on woody stems. Garden scissors shape up soft annual and perennials stems. Wear gloves to protect your hands.
Prune off dead and damaged sage stems any time of year, but leave most stems until spring when the plant begins to grow again and danger of frost has passed. The old stems, though unsightly, protect new growth. When new shoots emerge at the plant's the base and on stems, cut old woody stems back to new growth. Cut dead, soft stems to the ground.
Trim soft-stemmed perennial sages in the summer to encourage re-blooming. Wait until after the first burst of blooms, then remove at least half of the plant. If you have a mass planting of sage, cut plants at different levels to keep a natural look. The plants will reward you by bouncing back quickly with renewed vigor and lots of blossoms.
Deadhead sage to remove old flower spikes throughout the growing season. This helps encourage more blooms, shape the plant and neaten its appearance. Hold the end of a spent flower spike and move down with your other hand until just below the bloom. This method prevents you from chopping off a stalk you don't want to cut.
Pick up all fallen leaves, spent flower heads and pruned stems around your sage. If there is any sign of disease, dispose of the debris instead of composting it. This reduces the chances of fungal infections spreading. Always check for signs of pests, but sages have few problems with insects.
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