成长记
kensong
2018年08月23日
I now added "Kalanchoe Tomentosa (Chocolate Soldier) – Panda Plant" in my "garden"
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月22日
Though each daylily (Hemerocallis spp.) flower only lasts a day, you can have blooms all summer long if you plant the right type. Reblooming or everblooming varieties are repeat bloomers with little or no space of time between the flushes of bloom, so the plants stay in bloom from early summer to the beginning of fall.
Stella Daylilies
One the best known reblooming daylilies that provides color from late spring through fall is "Stella de Oro" (Hemerocallis x "Stella de Oro"). This variety produces 2-3/4 inch yellow-gold blooms and is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. The "Blackeyed Stella" (Hemerocallis "Blackeyed Stella") variety is similar, but its blooms feature a dark red eye. This cultivar is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Returns Varieties
The variety "Happy Returns" (Hemerocallis "Happy Returns") is a descendent of the "Stella de Oro." This everblooming daylily, which produces lemon-yellow flowers that reach 3 inches wide, is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 9. Other varieties in the "Returns" series, by the same hybridizer, provide more colors of everblooming daylilies. "Dynamite Returns" features ruffled red flowers, "Rosy Returns" reveals pink petals and "'When My Sweetheart Returns" produces pink and cream blooms.
More Summer Bloomers
Many other everblooming and reblooming day lilies exist. "Fairy Tale Pink" daylily (Hemerocallis x "Fairy Tale Pink") produces pale apricot-colored flowers, and "Little Grapette" dwarf daylily (Hemerocallis x "Little Grapette") blooms dark purple. Both varieties rebloom throughout the summer and are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 11. Some daylilies with double flowers also reliably rebloom, like "Night Embers" (Hemerocallis x "Night Embers"). This variety blooms dark red from early summer until frost and is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
Extending Bloom Time
Deadhead daylilies regularly to encourage more flowers. Remove spent blooms every day, and cut the flowering stem back to the ground after all blooms disappear. Because daylilies have thick stems, the best way to deadhead them without breaking off any surrounding blooms is to use sharp scissors or pruners. Disinfect cutting tools before use by soaking them in a mixture of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water, then rising in clean water.
Dividing plants every three to five years also encourages prolific flowering. Early spring or right after flowering are the best times to divide, but it can be done throughout the growing season. To divide plants, lift the entire clump with a gardening fork and use the fork or your hands to divide it into sections. Daylily clumps contain individual plants with a fan-shaped group of leaves attached to roots. When you divide, leave at least four fans in each division. Re-plant the new clumps at the same level they were originally growing, and water thoroughly.
Stella Daylilies
One the best known reblooming daylilies that provides color from late spring through fall is "Stella de Oro" (Hemerocallis x "Stella de Oro"). This variety produces 2-3/4 inch yellow-gold blooms and is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. The "Blackeyed Stella" (Hemerocallis "Blackeyed Stella") variety is similar, but its blooms feature a dark red eye. This cultivar is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 10.
Returns Varieties
The variety "Happy Returns" (Hemerocallis "Happy Returns") is a descendent of the "Stella de Oro." This everblooming daylily, which produces lemon-yellow flowers that reach 3 inches wide, is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 9. Other varieties in the "Returns" series, by the same hybridizer, provide more colors of everblooming daylilies. "Dynamite Returns" features ruffled red flowers, "Rosy Returns" reveals pink petals and "'When My Sweetheart Returns" produces pink and cream blooms.
More Summer Bloomers
Many other everblooming and reblooming day lilies exist. "Fairy Tale Pink" daylily (Hemerocallis x "Fairy Tale Pink") produces pale apricot-colored flowers, and "Little Grapette" dwarf daylily (Hemerocallis x "Little Grapette") blooms dark purple. Both varieties rebloom throughout the summer and are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 11. Some daylilies with double flowers also reliably rebloom, like "Night Embers" (Hemerocallis x "Night Embers"). This variety blooms dark red from early summer until frost and is hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9.
Extending Bloom Time
Deadhead daylilies regularly to encourage more flowers. Remove spent blooms every day, and cut the flowering stem back to the ground after all blooms disappear. Because daylilies have thick stems, the best way to deadhead them without breaking off any surrounding blooms is to use sharp scissors or pruners. Disinfect cutting tools before use by soaking them in a mixture of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water, then rising in clean water.
Dividing plants every three to five years also encourages prolific flowering. Early spring or right after flowering are the best times to divide, but it can be done throughout the growing season. To divide plants, lift the entire clump with a gardening fork and use the fork or your hands to divide it into sections. Daylily clumps contain individual plants with a fan-shaped group of leaves attached to roots. When you divide, leave at least four fans in each division. Re-plant the new clumps at the same level they were originally growing, and water thoroughly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月22日
In temperate areas of the U.S., Spanish moss, also known as Tillandsia usneoide, can be grown outdoor on oak and cypress trees without fear of losing it to killing freezes. Northerners can enjoy it, too, since this tough and determined plant will resurrect when sustained temperatures rise above about 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Whether you're pulling Spanish moss from your own tree to propagate it elsewhere or receiving it as an ordered product, Tillandsia usneoides transplants readily and easily. This unusual, decorative epiphyte is adaptable, durable, undemanding and care- and maintenance-free once established. You'll soon have wispy festoons of Spanish moss waving gently in soft summer breezes.
Step 1
Remove the Spanish moss from its package immediately upon receipt. Don't allow it to remain unpacked for more than one to two days.
Step 2
Spread the Spanish moss on the lawn in the shade, using a grass rake for large quantities. Give the mass a gentle spraying with a garden hose to wet it. The strands are loosely interwoven and have a lot of space between them. It's akin to watering a pile of fishing net, but the strands immediately begin absorbing the water. Spanish moss also takes a significant amount of its moisture directly from the air around it. You're just giving it a bit of a jump start, and more water won't be needed once the plant is situated. Allow it to breathe two hours as it rehydrates itself.
Step 3
Gather the Spanish moss. Place it in a 5-gallon bucket or, if there is a lot of it, put it in a wheelbarrow. Transport to the tree for transplant. Choose spots among tree limbs to transplant the Spanish moss, which needs only one branch to secure itself to. Forks in limbs or large twigs are excellent anchors. The best locations are lower and mid-level branches near the outer edges of the canopy in full or partial sun.
Step 4
Grab a double handful of the Spanish moss. Separate the strands gently with your fingers. Pull a wad of it from the mass. Don't worry about breaking the strands, which will regenerate in no time. Stuff the wad into the fork of a branch, or hang long strands over it. The Spanish moss will cling to imperfections on the rough bark. It's a lot like decorating a Christmas tree with tinsel.
Step 5
Stick Spanish moss in higher limbs, using a rake, pole saw or paint roller extension pole. Some like to park a pickup truck under the tree and stand in its bed for this task.
Step 6
Tie a little bit of cotton twine around the Spanish moss if you're worried about it falling out of the tree.
Step 7
Spray the transplant with the hose to help situate it in its new home.
Step 8
Pick moss up from the ground and quickly place it back in its perch if it happens to fall out of the tree, even during the winter. It will be fine.
Step 1
Remove the Spanish moss from its package immediately upon receipt. Don't allow it to remain unpacked for more than one to two days.
Step 2
Spread the Spanish moss on the lawn in the shade, using a grass rake for large quantities. Give the mass a gentle spraying with a garden hose to wet it. The strands are loosely interwoven and have a lot of space between them. It's akin to watering a pile of fishing net, but the strands immediately begin absorbing the water. Spanish moss also takes a significant amount of its moisture directly from the air around it. You're just giving it a bit of a jump start, and more water won't be needed once the plant is situated. Allow it to breathe two hours as it rehydrates itself.
Step 3
Gather the Spanish moss. Place it in a 5-gallon bucket or, if there is a lot of it, put it in a wheelbarrow. Transport to the tree for transplant. Choose spots among tree limbs to transplant the Spanish moss, which needs only one branch to secure itself to. Forks in limbs or large twigs are excellent anchors. The best locations are lower and mid-level branches near the outer edges of the canopy in full or partial sun.
Step 4
Grab a double handful of the Spanish moss. Separate the strands gently with your fingers. Pull a wad of it from the mass. Don't worry about breaking the strands, which will regenerate in no time. Stuff the wad into the fork of a branch, or hang long strands over it. The Spanish moss will cling to imperfections on the rough bark. It's a lot like decorating a Christmas tree with tinsel.
Step 5
Stick Spanish moss in higher limbs, using a rake, pole saw or paint roller extension pole. Some like to park a pickup truck under the tree and stand in its bed for this task.
Step 6
Tie a little bit of cotton twine around the Spanish moss if you're worried about it falling out of the tree.
Step 7
Spray the transplant with the hose to help situate it in its new home.
Step 8
Pick moss up from the ground and quickly place it back in its perch if it happens to fall out of the tree, even during the winter. It will be fine.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
The curious little resurrection fern, Polypodium polypodioides, may very well be the perfect plant for the unfortunately black-thumbed gardener -- or the incredibly lazy one. If there's a truly care- and maintenance-free living plant, this is it. The strange little fern virtually laughs thirst in the face and defies death as it takes even the severest of droughts easily in its stride. The resurrection fern simply takes a nap until conditions become more favorable. When rains return, the seemingly dead plant miraculously returns to life and its former beauty within a few hours. Resurrection ferns are readily available from mail order, online and brick-and-mortar plant retailers. If you live near a wooded area within this common little epiphyte's natural range, you can easily find fallen branches decorated with them just about anywhere on the shady forest floor.
Step 1
Remove the purchased resurrection fern carefully from its bag or packaging. Set it in a shallow container out of direct sunlight. Water all of its surfaces generously to the point of runoff with a repurposed plastic spray bottle. Within minutes, the plant will begin to unfurl its crumpled brown fronds and show signs of greening up.
Step 2
Fill a 4- or 6-inch pot with orchid growing medium if you wish to keep your resurrection fern as a houseplant. Set the pot in a shallow container of water until the surface feels moist. Remove it from the water and allow it to drain for about 15 minutes. Place the fern on top of the medium and set it anywhere out of direct sunlight.
Step 3
Spritz the resurrection fern with water and leave it alone. It doesn't need any fertilizer or further care.
Step 4
Choose a tree in your yard to which to secure the resurrection fern if you would rather grow it outdoors. While any tree will do, these plants seem to have an affinity for pecan and live oak. Carefully press one or more of the reviving fern's long, thin rhizomes into crevices in the bark of the tree's branch or trunk. Use lightweight wire to anchor the fern, if you wish.
Step 5
Collect a fallen branch with resurrection fern growing on it and haul it home to your garden if you'd rather harvest free plants. Prop one end of the limb against the trunk of one of your trees. Use some lightweight wire to secure the branch into place. Eventually, the fern will seed some of its spores right onto your living tree and propagate itself prolifically.
Step 6
Place the branch with resurrection ferns in any shady or partially shaded garden spot you wish, but these epiphytes do prefer to reside in and on living trees.
Step 7
Water the indoor or outdoor resurrection fern again when it begins to turn brown or look dry if you prefer to keep the plant fresh and green. Otherwise, withhold water and allow it to appear to die. Water it when you want to revive it.
Step 1
Remove the purchased resurrection fern carefully from its bag or packaging. Set it in a shallow container out of direct sunlight. Water all of its surfaces generously to the point of runoff with a repurposed plastic spray bottle. Within minutes, the plant will begin to unfurl its crumpled brown fronds and show signs of greening up.
Step 2
Fill a 4- or 6-inch pot with orchid growing medium if you wish to keep your resurrection fern as a houseplant. Set the pot in a shallow container of water until the surface feels moist. Remove it from the water and allow it to drain for about 15 minutes. Place the fern on top of the medium and set it anywhere out of direct sunlight.
Step 3
Spritz the resurrection fern with water and leave it alone. It doesn't need any fertilizer or further care.
Step 4
Choose a tree in your yard to which to secure the resurrection fern if you would rather grow it outdoors. While any tree will do, these plants seem to have an affinity for pecan and live oak. Carefully press one or more of the reviving fern's long, thin rhizomes into crevices in the bark of the tree's branch or trunk. Use lightweight wire to anchor the fern, if you wish.
Step 5
Collect a fallen branch with resurrection fern growing on it and haul it home to your garden if you'd rather harvest free plants. Prop one end of the limb against the trunk of one of your trees. Use some lightweight wire to secure the branch into place. Eventually, the fern will seed some of its spores right onto your living tree and propagate itself prolifically.
Step 6
Place the branch with resurrection ferns in any shady or partially shaded garden spot you wish, but these epiphytes do prefer to reside in and on living trees.
Step 7
Water the indoor or outdoor resurrection fern again when it begins to turn brown or look dry if you prefer to keep the plant fresh and green. Otherwise, withhold water and allow it to appear to die. Water it when you want to revive it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月21日
Hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.) plants produce large, often colorful, flowers during the summer. The hardy hibiscus varieties, such as rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus), grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. Tropical varieties, like Chinese hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), grow in USDA zones 9 through 11. Both hardy and tropical hibiscuses can suffer from yellow leaves and overall decline. The symptoms, causes and treatments are similar for both types of hibiscus.
Winter Leaf Drop
Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth.
Cultural Concerns
Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer.
Blights
Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.
Winter Leaf Drop
Tropical hibiscus varieties grown outdoors in summer but overwintered inside tend to suffer leaf yellowing, drop and dieback in the days following the move. It's difficult to supply a tropical hibiscus with enough light indoors, which causes further yellowing beyond the initial shock of relocation. Remove the leaves as they yellow if you want to try and keep the plant active during the winter. North Dakota State University Extension suggests placing the plant under bright artificial lighting for 13 hours each day, when brought inside during the winter months. You can also allow the plant to go dormant during winter. Place the plant in a dark area at around 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit and allow all the leaves to yellow and fall off before cutting the plant back to 6 inches tall. In spring, resume watering and place the plant in a sunny spot to encourage a fresh flush of healthy, green growth.
Cultural Concerns
Wet, poorly drained soil can cause root rots and general leaf yellowing. Grow potted hibiscus in containers with bottom drainage holes so the soil doesn't stay soggy. Plant garden hibiscus in well-draining soil and avoid overwatering and waterlogged soil. Nutrient deficiencies can also cause yellowing foliage, especially a lack of nitrogen in the soil. Water potted hibiscus with a soluble, all-purpose fertilizer every two weeks, such as a 1/2 teaspoon of 24-8-16 all-purpose blend mixed with 1 quart of water. For garden plants, sprinkling 1 tablespoon of a 12-4-8 or similar blend over every 1 square foot of garden at eight-week intervals provides enough nutrients. Fertilize hibiscus plants only when they are actively growing in spring and summer.
Blights
Both tropical and hardy hibiscus varieties can develop yellow leaves from a botrytis blight infection. This fungal disease may also cause spotting and discoloration on flowers or show as gray masses of mold on leaf, bud and stem surfaces. Overly wet soil and poor air circulation are the main causes. Remove affected leaves, stems and flowers with shears, wiping the shears with an isopropyl alcohol-soaked rag after each cut to destroy any fungal spores. Avoid overhead watering and keep the soil moist but not soggy.
Leaf Spot Diseases
Yellow spots on leaf surfaces may indicate a fungal leaf spot diseases. The shape and size of the spots varies, but most leaf spot diseases aren't fatal and they rarely cause long-term damage. Hibiscus plants don't require fungicide treatments for leaf spots. Instead, remove badly affected leaves and clean up fallen leaves and plant debris from around the base of the plant. Watering early in the day and keeping the foliage dry further prevents leaf spot problems.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
The giant white bird of paradise plant (Strelitzia nicolai) is a cousin to the more commonly seen orange and blue bird of paradise. The 10- to 12-inch white flower has a blue "tongue" and sits inside a purple bract.
Growth Rate
According to the University of Florida, the giant white bird of paradise is a moderate grower. It eventually reaches a height of 20 to 30 feet and a width of 6 to 10 feet, although smaller specimens are commonly seen. The plants will not flower until they are several years old.
Hardiness
Hardy in USDA plant zones 9b through 11, the giant white bird of paradise is slightly hardier than its orange cousin. It can also handle drought and salt, making it a good accent plant near pools or the ocean.
Growing Strelitzia Nicolai
Full sun and warm temperatures work best for giant white bird of paradise. If grown as container plants, they need to be brought inside when outdoor temperatures drop to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Plants need to be fertilized every two weeks in spring and weekly in summer for best flowering.
Growth Rate
According to the University of Florida, the giant white bird of paradise is a moderate grower. It eventually reaches a height of 20 to 30 feet and a width of 6 to 10 feet, although smaller specimens are commonly seen. The plants will not flower until they are several years old.
Hardiness
Hardy in USDA plant zones 9b through 11, the giant white bird of paradise is slightly hardier than its orange cousin. It can also handle drought and salt, making it a good accent plant near pools or the ocean.
Growing Strelitzia Nicolai
Full sun and warm temperatures work best for giant white bird of paradise. If grown as container plants, they need to be brought inside when outdoor temperatures drop to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. They should be allowed to dry out between waterings. Plants need to be fertilized every two weeks in spring and weekly in summer for best flowering.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月20日
Ferns are one of the oldest forms of plant life. There are over 10,000 known species of fern, some of which are deciduous and some that are evergreen. Fern leaves are called fronds, and they house the reproductive spores that ferns produce instead of seeds. Deciduous ferns lose their leaves in winter and tend to look ratty over the season when some of them die back but don't fall off. Evergreen ferns are vibrant year-round but they can benefit from cleanups to remove damage and dead fronds. Timing is important when pruning ferns so new fiddleheads (immature ferns) are not disturbed and spores are able to disperse.
Timing is Everything
Pruning of ferns needs to occur after the spores on fruiting fronds have matured and released. Trim them when they are dormant, which is during winter. They can also be pruned in very early spring. Many ferns do not object to pruning at any time of the year. The hardy ferns such as sword fern can be pruned once a year if necessary, just about any time, since they are continuously growing.
Evergreen Ferns
As a rule, ferns don't really need pruning. Ferns in nature are generally self-cleaning and will release old fronds as they die. In the garden, occasional removal of dead fronds will improve the appearance of the plant, but it is strictly cosmetic. Where the plants are large and very old, severe pruning can take place to the crown. All the fronds can be removed in late winter or before the first new fiddleheads appear. Prune the stems away from the crown in a circular pattern so you are left with a little dome. This is not only attractive, but it prevents accidental damage to the newest growth which appears at the center of the plant.
Deciduous Ferns
Deciduous ferns don't necessarily drop all their fronds when temperatures plummet. They do experience dieback and many of the fronds will fall off or turn brown. From a cosmetic standpoint, it is best to get these dead fronds out of the plant. You will also increase light and room for new leaflets. Many people prune the deciduous ferns in fall so they are ready for the spring, but the old fronds provide protection for the crown. It is best to leave them, unattractive though they may be, until spring.
Pruning Indoor Ferns
Boston, staghorn and maidenhair are some of the common ferns used as houseplants. These plants do not need pruning but they do need cleaning. The difference is that pruning increases the health of a plant and is done for many reasons, while cleaning is just routine maintenance. As with outdoor ferns you may choose to remove dead fronds. These should be cut with very sharp scissors or pruning shears and taken back 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the crown. The only time you would ever need to prune out all the fronds is when you are faced with a monumental pest problem. In this case, fertilize one week before the big haircut and then remove all the fronds.
Timing is Everything
Pruning of ferns needs to occur after the spores on fruiting fronds have matured and released. Trim them when they are dormant, which is during winter. They can also be pruned in very early spring. Many ferns do not object to pruning at any time of the year. The hardy ferns such as sword fern can be pruned once a year if necessary, just about any time, since they are continuously growing.
Evergreen Ferns
As a rule, ferns don't really need pruning. Ferns in nature are generally self-cleaning and will release old fronds as they die. In the garden, occasional removal of dead fronds will improve the appearance of the plant, but it is strictly cosmetic. Where the plants are large and very old, severe pruning can take place to the crown. All the fronds can be removed in late winter or before the first new fiddleheads appear. Prune the stems away from the crown in a circular pattern so you are left with a little dome. This is not only attractive, but it prevents accidental damage to the newest growth which appears at the center of the plant.
Deciduous Ferns
Deciduous ferns don't necessarily drop all their fronds when temperatures plummet. They do experience dieback and many of the fronds will fall off or turn brown. From a cosmetic standpoint, it is best to get these dead fronds out of the plant. You will also increase light and room for new leaflets. Many people prune the deciduous ferns in fall so they are ready for the spring, but the old fronds provide protection for the crown. It is best to leave them, unattractive though they may be, until spring.
Pruning Indoor Ferns
Boston, staghorn and maidenhair are some of the common ferns used as houseplants. These plants do not need pruning but they do need cleaning. The difference is that pruning increases the health of a plant and is done for many reasons, while cleaning is just routine maintenance. As with outdoor ferns you may choose to remove dead fronds. These should be cut with very sharp scissors or pruning shears and taken back 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the crown. The only time you would ever need to prune out all the fronds is when you are faced with a monumental pest problem. In this case, fertilize one week before the big haircut and then remove all the fronds.
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求助
Priya
2018年08月19日
Does anyone know which plant is this one?
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Kelly Muñoz：At the Atlantic area oficina Colombia, that plant it is called "Icaco".
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月19日
Pagoda plant (Clerodendrum paniculatum) earned its common name because of the tiered, pyramidal shape of its flower clusters, which stand out against its large, heart-shaped leaves. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, where its equally ornamental foliage and flowers brighten gardens all year. Pagoda plant requires year-round care to maintain its good looks and long-term health. Its care requirements vary by season but decrease significantly in winter.
Seasonal Watering
A pagoda plant's water needs fluctuate significantly during the year. In summer, it needs consistently moist soil and should be watered weekly or whenever the soil dries out completely on the surface. A potted pagoda plant will quickly deplete soil moisture and may need to be watered several times each week, especially if it is in an unglazed clay pot. Water until the soil feels moist in the top 2 inches, or until water trickles from the pot's drainage holes. Only use pots with drainage holes so the plant doesn't sit in soggy soil. In winter, water only if no rain falls for longer than one week or if the plant appears slightly wilted.
Fertilizer Needs
A pagoda plant is a moderately heavy feeder during summer, especially if it is in full sun. In shade, feed a pagoda plant once every two weeks with soluble fertilizer with an N-P-K number of 15-15-15 or 12-12-12. Increase the frequency to weekly for a plant in full sun. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer in 1 gallon of water and apply the solution to wet soil around the base of the plant. Don't fertilize in winter to allow the pagoda plant to rest. Resume feeding in spring.
Pruning and Grooming
A pagoda plant will grow quickly in summer, which means it may crowd out less assertive plants. Prune it to restrict its size and encourage better blooming and denser foliage. Prune in summer after the last flowers have faded. Snip off any spent flowers and trim back the entire plant by up to one-half, is you wish. Before pruning, soak your shears in a disinfecting solution for five minutes, then rinse and wipe them thoroughly. Use 1 part pine oil cleaner and 3 parts water or full-strength household disinfectant as the solution.
Potential Problems
Pests, including aphids, whiteflies and spider mites, often trouble a pagoda plant, causing damage that ranges from cosmetic to catastrophic. Early detection is key to ensuring the survival of the plant, so routinely monitor it for signs of bugs such as eggs on the undersides of the leaves, honeydew and abnormally yellow leaves. Treat infestations with an insecticidal soap solution. Mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap in 1 gallon of water in a pump sprayer. Saturate the foliage every four to seven days, preferably when the weather is still and cool. Although insecticidal soap is nontoxic, wear goggles and a face mask to protect your mucous membranes. Rinse off the plant two to three hours after each treatment to prevent leaf damage.
Seasonal Watering
A pagoda plant's water needs fluctuate significantly during the year. In summer, it needs consistently moist soil and should be watered weekly or whenever the soil dries out completely on the surface. A potted pagoda plant will quickly deplete soil moisture and may need to be watered several times each week, especially if it is in an unglazed clay pot. Water until the soil feels moist in the top 2 inches, or until water trickles from the pot's drainage holes. Only use pots with drainage holes so the plant doesn't sit in soggy soil. In winter, water only if no rain falls for longer than one week or if the plant appears slightly wilted.
Fertilizer Needs
A pagoda plant is a moderately heavy feeder during summer, especially if it is in full sun. In shade, feed a pagoda plant once every two weeks with soluble fertilizer with an N-P-K number of 15-15-15 or 12-12-12. Increase the frequency to weekly for a plant in full sun. Dissolve 1/2 teaspoon of fertilizer in 1 gallon of water and apply the solution to wet soil around the base of the plant. Don't fertilize in winter to allow the pagoda plant to rest. Resume feeding in spring.
Pruning and Grooming
A pagoda plant will grow quickly in summer, which means it may crowd out less assertive plants. Prune it to restrict its size and encourage better blooming and denser foliage. Prune in summer after the last flowers have faded. Snip off any spent flowers and trim back the entire plant by up to one-half, is you wish. Before pruning, soak your shears in a disinfecting solution for five minutes, then rinse and wipe them thoroughly. Use 1 part pine oil cleaner and 3 parts water or full-strength household disinfectant as the solution.
Potential Problems
Pests, including aphids, whiteflies and spider mites, often trouble a pagoda plant, causing damage that ranges from cosmetic to catastrophic. Early detection is key to ensuring the survival of the plant, so routinely monitor it for signs of bugs such as eggs on the undersides of the leaves, honeydew and abnormally yellow leaves. Treat infestations with an insecticidal soap solution. Mix 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap in 1 gallon of water in a pump sprayer. Saturate the foliage every four to seven days, preferably when the weather is still and cool. Although insecticidal soap is nontoxic, wear goggles and a face mask to protect your mucous membranes. Rinse off the plant two to three hours after each treatment to prevent leaf damage.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月19日
One of the first, and best known, re-blooming daylilies is the cultivar "Stella de Oro" (Hemerocallis "Stella de Oro"), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11. It first appeared in 1975, and 10 years later won the Stout Silver Medal. This is the highest award a daylily cultivar can receive from the American Hemerocallis Society. Like most daylilies, "Stella de Oro" benefits from division every few years.
How Often Should I Divide?
"Stella de Oro" is a dwarf daylily with foliage that only grows 12 inches tall. It tends to form tidy clumps that work well planted in rows, as individual clumps in perennial borders or massed as a groundcover. As the clumps grow, the individual daylily fans become crowded. Regular division reinvigorates daylilies, and gives you more plants for your garden or to pass along to other gardeners. Divide "Stella de Oro" every two to three years, when you notice a decrease in the number of blooms.
What Time of Year Is Best?
Daylilies are remarkably resilient plants, and can be divided any time during the spring, summer or fall growing seasons. Spring is the best season for division, however, since daylilies are actively growing. You want to divide plants when the new foliage is just starting to grow. This gives the daylilies time to put out new growth before blooming in the summer. Plants that were divided in the early spring will still flower, and may even produce more flowers than plants that were not divided.
If you miss dividing in the early spring, the second best time to divide plants is in the early fall. Daylilies put out another flush of growth after blooming. For "Stella de Oro," this doesn't happen until the weather starts to cool. You might have to cut off some late bloom stalks in order to divide the plants in early fall.
How Do I Divide Daylilies?
If you divide in the late spring, summer or fall, cut back the foliage to 8 inches tall with a pair of hedge shears and remove any flower stalks before dividing. For early spring division, you can skip this step. Make sure you disinfect shears and other cutting tools before use. Do this by soaking the tools in a mixture of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for at least 5 minutes. Rinse tools in clean water, then let them air dry.
Use a gardening fork to lift the entire daylily clump from the soil. Separate the clump into smaller clumps using the gardening fork or a large, sharp knife. Each fan-shaped plant can grow on its own, but it is best to leave at least four fans together in each clump when you're dividing daylilies.
What Comes After Division?
Before replanting the daylily divisions, amend the soil with 2 to 3 inches of well-rotted compost worked in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. This will provide a slow-release form of nitrogen and loosen the soil for new roots.
Re-plant each division at the same depth the plant was originally growing and space clumps 18 to 24 inches apart. Water each daylily clump thoroughly, and continue watering enough to keep the soil moist throughout the spring, summer and early fall. "Stella de Oro" needs little supplemental water after this first year.
How Often Should I Divide?
"Stella de Oro" is a dwarf daylily with foliage that only grows 12 inches tall. It tends to form tidy clumps that work well planted in rows, as individual clumps in perennial borders or massed as a groundcover. As the clumps grow, the individual daylily fans become crowded. Regular division reinvigorates daylilies, and gives you more plants for your garden or to pass along to other gardeners. Divide "Stella de Oro" every two to three years, when you notice a decrease in the number of blooms.
What Time of Year Is Best?
Daylilies are remarkably resilient plants, and can be divided any time during the spring, summer or fall growing seasons. Spring is the best season for division, however, since daylilies are actively growing. You want to divide plants when the new foliage is just starting to grow. This gives the daylilies time to put out new growth before blooming in the summer. Plants that were divided in the early spring will still flower, and may even produce more flowers than plants that were not divided.
If you miss dividing in the early spring, the second best time to divide plants is in the early fall. Daylilies put out another flush of growth after blooming. For "Stella de Oro," this doesn't happen until the weather starts to cool. You might have to cut off some late bloom stalks in order to divide the plants in early fall.
How Do I Divide Daylilies?
If you divide in the late spring, summer or fall, cut back the foliage to 8 inches tall with a pair of hedge shears and remove any flower stalks before dividing. For early spring division, you can skip this step. Make sure you disinfect shears and other cutting tools before use. Do this by soaking the tools in a mixture of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for at least 5 minutes. Rinse tools in clean water, then let them air dry.
Use a gardening fork to lift the entire daylily clump from the soil. Separate the clump into smaller clumps using the gardening fork or a large, sharp knife. Each fan-shaped plant can grow on its own, but it is best to leave at least four fans together in each clump when you're dividing daylilies.
What Comes After Division?
Before replanting the daylily divisions, amend the soil with 2 to 3 inches of well-rotted compost worked in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. This will provide a slow-release form of nitrogen and loosen the soil for new roots.
Re-plant each division at the same depth the plant was originally growing and space clumps 18 to 24 inches apart. Water each daylily clump thoroughly, and continue watering enough to keep the soil moist throughout the spring, summer and early fall. "Stella de Oro" needs little supplemental water after this first year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月19日
The perennial Japanese lantern plant is related to tomatoes and potatoes. It is grown for the bright orange sheath, or calyx, that surrounds its fruit. Dried stems with the calyx still attached are a popular Christmas and Halloween decoration. This species can become invasive because of its spreading underground rhizomes; you can grow it in containers or in pots sunk into the garden to prevent it from getting out of control.
Step 1
Sow Japanese lantern seeds in 4- or 6-inch pots indoors in the early spring. Start about a month before the average date of the last spring freeze. Sprinkle the seed thinly on the surface of sterile potting compost and cover with 1/4 inch sieved compost. Keep the soil moist but not soaking and place in a warm spot.
Step 2
Transplant Japanese lantern seedlings into the garden six weeks after they germinate and are large enough to handle. Plant in a partially shady site with rich but well-drained soil. Allow between 1 and 3 feet between plants depending on the mature size of the cultivar you are growing.
Step 3
Fertilize your growing plants with a liquid fertilizer rich in nitrogen every three weeks or apply a slow release granular fertilizer every three months. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings but never to the point where the leaves start to wilt.
Step 4
Harvest the stems in the fall as soon as the fruit calyxes develop their orange color. Remove all the leaves and hang the stems out to dry.
Step 1
Sow Japanese lantern seeds in 4- or 6-inch pots indoors in the early spring. Start about a month before the average date of the last spring freeze. Sprinkle the seed thinly on the surface of sterile potting compost and cover with 1/4 inch sieved compost. Keep the soil moist but not soaking and place in a warm spot.
Step 2
Transplant Japanese lantern seedlings into the garden six weeks after they germinate and are large enough to handle. Plant in a partially shady site with rich but well-drained soil. Allow between 1 and 3 feet between plants depending on the mature size of the cultivar you are growing.
Step 3
Fertilize your growing plants with a liquid fertilizer rich in nitrogen every three weeks or apply a slow release granular fertilizer every three months. Allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings but never to the point where the leaves start to wilt.
Step 4
Harvest the stems in the fall as soon as the fruit calyxes develop their orange color. Remove all the leaves and hang the stems out to dry.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
An evergreen, foxtail fern (Asparagus densiflorus "Myers") has delicate-looking, plumed stems, which are lined with pointed, bright green leaves. Despite its ferny appearance, foxtail fern is a flowering plant. Forming fluffy mounds 2 feet tall and up to 4 feet wide, foxtail fern works wells as a houseplant, specimen, container or border plant, requiring minimal maintenance and care. Foxtail ferns are generally free from pests and disease (ref 5)
Warm-Climate Plant
Foxtail fern grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, growing in full sun to light shade. Dappled sunlight is best. If it gets too much sun, its leaves may drop. If you're growing multiple plants, space them 18 to 24 inches apart. Foxtail fern can tolerate temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Where not hardy, foxtail fern may be grown as a houseplant in front of a bright, sunny windowsill with temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees F. The decorative red berries are mildly toxic if eaten, so warn children not to sample them.
Water Regularly
Foxtail fern tolerates a range of soil types, as long as it is well-draining. Water regularly and deeply, allowing the soil to dry out somewhat between waterings. Do not allow the soil to become flooded or waterlogged. Reduce watering in the winter, but do not allow the soil to become completely dry. Insufficient water may cause leaf drop. If you're growing it in a container, choose a pot with at least one drainage hole. Increase humidity for indoor plants by placing the container on a tray with wet pebbles and misting the plant regularly with room-temperature water.
Fertilize Monthly
During the growing season, fertilize outdoor plants monthly with 3 ounces of a 10-10-10 fertilizer mixed into 1 gallon of water per 10 square feet of bedding space. Check the label as directions vary among brands. Fertilize indoor plants monthly during the growing season with 7 drops of a liquid 10-10-10 fertilizer per 1 quart of water. Don not fertilize in winter.
Winter Considerations
Winter temperatures in the mid to low 20s Fahrenheit may damage foliage in the winter. In early spring, trim frost-damaged foliage to help the plant regain its good looks. (ref 6) Disinfect pruning equipment afterwards by soaking tools for 5 minutes in a solution that is equal parts alcohol and water. Rinse with water and air dry. If there is no rainfall, water plants monthly. To help prevent winter dehydration, mulch around the plant with 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, such as shredded deciduous plant leaves or pine boughs. Remove mulch in the spring, after frosts have passed. (last ref)
Warm-Climate Plant
Foxtail fern grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, growing in full sun to light shade. Dappled sunlight is best. If it gets too much sun, its leaves may drop. If you're growing multiple plants, space them 18 to 24 inches apart. Foxtail fern can tolerate temperatures as low as 20 degrees Fahrenheit. Where not hardy, foxtail fern may be grown as a houseplant in front of a bright, sunny windowsill with temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees F. The decorative red berries are mildly toxic if eaten, so warn children not to sample them.
Water Regularly
Foxtail fern tolerates a range of soil types, as long as it is well-draining. Water regularly and deeply, allowing the soil to dry out somewhat between waterings. Do not allow the soil to become flooded or waterlogged. Reduce watering in the winter, but do not allow the soil to become completely dry. Insufficient water may cause leaf drop. If you're growing it in a container, choose a pot with at least one drainage hole. Increase humidity for indoor plants by placing the container on a tray with wet pebbles and misting the plant regularly with room-temperature water.
Fertilize Monthly
During the growing season, fertilize outdoor plants monthly with 3 ounces of a 10-10-10 fertilizer mixed into 1 gallon of water per 10 square feet of bedding space. Check the label as directions vary among brands. Fertilize indoor plants monthly during the growing season with 7 drops of a liquid 10-10-10 fertilizer per 1 quart of water. Don not fertilize in winter.
Winter Considerations
Winter temperatures in the mid to low 20s Fahrenheit may damage foliage in the winter. In early spring, trim frost-damaged foliage to help the plant regain its good looks. (ref 6) Disinfect pruning equipment afterwards by soaking tools for 5 minutes in a solution that is equal parts alcohol and water. Rinse with water and air dry. If there is no rainfall, water plants monthly. To help prevent winter dehydration, mulch around the plant with 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, such as shredded deciduous plant leaves or pine boughs. Remove mulch in the spring, after frosts have passed. (last ref)
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月18日
Each spring a new batch of Easter lilies (Lilium longiflorum) arrives just in time for their namesake holiday. Although many people treat them as annuals, the website Flower Garden Bulbs states they are perennials into U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 4.
Timeframe
Professional nurseries are experts at forcing Easter lilies to bloom right in time for Easter, whether it falls in March or April. As a perennial, your Easter lily will probably not bloom until June or July of the following year.
Procedure
Keep your potted plant in the house out of direct sunlight in a room that is about 65 degrees and away from drafts or heating ducts. Remove the foil or plastic casing around the pot when you water the plant to avoid drowning your lily. To enjoy your Easter lily as a perennial, plant the bulbs late in the spring after all danger of frost is over. Plant the bulbs about 3 inches below the soil and 12 to 18 inches apart.
Expert Insight
To help ensure that your Easter lily survives into another year in colder areas, protect it through the winter. The Texas Agrilife Extensive Service recommends a mulch of straw, pine needles, leaves, boxes and bags; remove when the plant sprouts in spring.
Timeframe
Professional nurseries are experts at forcing Easter lilies to bloom right in time for Easter, whether it falls in March or April. As a perennial, your Easter lily will probably not bloom until June or July of the following year.
Procedure
Keep your potted plant in the house out of direct sunlight in a room that is about 65 degrees and away from drafts or heating ducts. Remove the foil or plastic casing around the pot when you water the plant to avoid drowning your lily. To enjoy your Easter lily as a perennial, plant the bulbs late in the spring after all danger of frost is over. Plant the bulbs about 3 inches below the soil and 12 to 18 inches apart.
Expert Insight
To help ensure that your Easter lily survives into another year in colder areas, protect it through the winter. The Texas Agrilife Extensive Service recommends a mulch of straw, pine needles, leaves, boxes and bags; remove when the plant sprouts in spring.
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