文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
A low-maintenance plant, ferns grow well in most homes. Many ferns are tropical in origin and can only be grown indoors where they are protected from frost. One of the primary reasons the plants suffer is from improper care. Ferns have different light, water and fertilizer requirements when compared to other common houseplants. If the ferns are weak or dying, ensuring they receive what they need to remain healthy usually revives the plants.
Step 1
Move the fern away from direct sunlight, if applicable, as overly bright light burns the plant and causes wilting. Ferns prefer indirect light such as that from a north-facing window.
Step 2
Provide humidity around the fern. Fill the drip tray with a 2- to 3-inch layer of pebbles. Add water to the tray until the water level sits jut beneath the top of the pebbles. Set the pot on top of the pebbles and replenish the water in the tray as necessary to maintain the water level. The evaporating moisture from the tray adds humidity to the air around the fern.
Step 3
Water the ferns before the soil dries out completely, as these plants require a high-moisture environment. Feel the soil once or twice a week and water as soon as the top inch of soil begins to feel dry but before it dries completely. Water at the base of the fern until the excess moisture drains from the bottom. Too little water causes the fern to wilt or drop fronds.
Step 4
Keep ferns in a 68 to 72 degree Fahrenheit room. Temperatures can drop as low as 62 F at night. Most ferns cannot tolerate overly cold or hot temperatures.
Step 5
Fertilize with a weak solution once a month, as over-feeding can kill the plants. Apply a general-purpose, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half the rate recommended on the package. Only fertilize growing ferns; the plants don't require fertilization when they are dormant.
Step 1
Move the fern away from direct sunlight, if applicable, as overly bright light burns the plant and causes wilting. Ferns prefer indirect light such as that from a north-facing window.
Step 2
Provide humidity around the fern. Fill the drip tray with a 2- to 3-inch layer of pebbles. Add water to the tray until the water level sits jut beneath the top of the pebbles. Set the pot on top of the pebbles and replenish the water in the tray as necessary to maintain the water level. The evaporating moisture from the tray adds humidity to the air around the fern.
Step 3
Water the ferns before the soil dries out completely, as these plants require a high-moisture environment. Feel the soil once or twice a week and water as soon as the top inch of soil begins to feel dry but before it dries completely. Water at the base of the fern until the excess moisture drains from the bottom. Too little water causes the fern to wilt or drop fronds.
Step 4
Keep ferns in a 68 to 72 degree Fahrenheit room. Temperatures can drop as low as 62 F at night. Most ferns cannot tolerate overly cold or hot temperatures.
Step 5
Fertilize with a weak solution once a month, as over-feeding can kill the plants. Apply a general-purpose, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half the rate recommended on the package. Only fertilize growing ferns; the plants don't require fertilization when they are dormant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月16日
Jasmine is a flowering, fragrant, perennial evergreen. Depending upon its variety, jasmine may be planted as a ground cover, an ornamental bush, or trained along fences and other supports. In Texas, the best time to plant jasmine depends upon its variety and the age of the plant.
Varieties
Jasmine comes in shrubs -- bush and climbing vines -- and ground cover. Shrub varieties include Jasminum floridum, or Florida jasmine, and Jasminum primulinum, or primrose jasmine. Jasminum humile, or Italian jasmine, and Gelsemium sempervirens, or Carolina yellow, are two climbing varieties of jasmine. Asiatic jasmine, also known as Dwarf Confederate jasmine or small leaf Confederate jasmine, is a ground cover.
Time Frame
Shrubs and climbing jasmine can be planted in either mid spring or September through November. Planting time for ground cover Asiatic jasmine depends upon the size of the plant. Plants that are purchased in 1-gallon containers can be planted any time of the year. If the winter is mild, plants in 4-inch containers can be planted any time as well. Smaller plants in 2-inch containers need to be planted in the spring.
Warning
Do not plant jasmine where young children or animals can reach it. The berries of jasmine shrubs are poisonous. If ingested, they can affect the digestive and nervous system and, in some cases, cause death.
Varieties
Jasmine comes in shrubs -- bush and climbing vines -- and ground cover. Shrub varieties include Jasminum floridum, or Florida jasmine, and Jasminum primulinum, or primrose jasmine. Jasminum humile, or Italian jasmine, and Gelsemium sempervirens, or Carolina yellow, are two climbing varieties of jasmine. Asiatic jasmine, also known as Dwarf Confederate jasmine or small leaf Confederate jasmine, is a ground cover.
Time Frame
Shrubs and climbing jasmine can be planted in either mid spring or September through November. Planting time for ground cover Asiatic jasmine depends upon the size of the plant. Plants that are purchased in 1-gallon containers can be planted any time of the year. If the winter is mild, plants in 4-inch containers can be planted any time as well. Smaller plants in 2-inch containers need to be planted in the spring.
Warning
Do not plant jasmine where young children or animals can reach it. The berries of jasmine shrubs are poisonous. If ingested, they can affect the digestive and nervous system and, in some cases, cause death.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月15日
When to prune sedum (Sedum spp.) is a question that is not answered with just a simple date. Pruning the flowering perennial, which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 10, depends on the size of the plant, the variety and how you want it to look. A compact, low-growing sedum requires different maintenance pruning than a tall, late-blooming variety.
Before You Prune
Before you prune your sedum, disinfect your pruning tools. Pruning shears are best for cutting back tall plants, while snips work well for pinching or clipping leaves. After brushing any dirt from the tool blades, disinfect the blades by soaking them for at least five minutes in a household disinfectant. After removing the tool from the disinfectant, rinse the blades with clean water and let them dry before using them on your plants. Repeat the disinfecting process before pruning another plant to avoid spreading disease.
Pinching for Shape
To encourage branching and low growth on young plants, pinching is recommended. To pinch the plant, use your fingers or pruning snips to remove the center growth from the top of a stem. Take care not to damage the buds or small leaf sets on either side of the center growth; these buds are where the branching will occur. Pinch back new plants when they are about 8 inches tall. You can still pinch off up to 2 inches after blooms start to appear, but it will delay flowering. The result is sedum with more horizontal growth, less vertical growth and added fullness.
Late Spring Pruning
A more severe pruning is required to encourage bushiness on an older plant that has gotten top heavy or leggy. To encourage new plant growth and get a fuller plant, cut the sedum back by one-half in May or June. New flower buds will form on the cut stalks, so you won't be sacrificing any of the showy display for the sake of a neater looking plant. Choose a point about halfway down a stalk and just above a set of leaves to make your cut. Cut cleanly through the stalk with sharp pruning shears, taking care not to damage the leaf set. Repeat with each stalk until the sedum is a uniform height.
Early Spring Pruning
Some varieties of tall sedum, such as "Autumn Joy" (Sedum x "Autumn Joy"), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 9, flower through the winter and need cut back in late winter or early spring. You can cut the sedum back in winter as soon as the flowers fade or any time after that until you see green peeping from the ground in spring. Cut the entire plant back to ground level using pruning shears or break the stalks at ground level by hand. In the spring, the sedum will re-emerge from the roots.
Year-Round Pruning
Some types of pruning are necessary year-round. This includes pruning out dead plant growth and cutting out diseased plant material. Removing these from your sedum as you see them will help keep the plant looking its best, keep it healthy and less prone to fungal or insect infestations. Cut dead stalks back to the base of the stalk. Pull any dead leaves when you spot them. Remove diseased portions of the plant to keep disease from spreading. Make sure you cut back far enough that you are leaving only healthy plant material. Make the cut just above a leaf set for new growth. Do not compost diseased sedum material.
Before You Prune
Before you prune your sedum, disinfect your pruning tools. Pruning shears are best for cutting back tall plants, while snips work well for pinching or clipping leaves. After brushing any dirt from the tool blades, disinfect the blades by soaking them for at least five minutes in a household disinfectant. After removing the tool from the disinfectant, rinse the blades with clean water and let them dry before using them on your plants. Repeat the disinfecting process before pruning another plant to avoid spreading disease.
Pinching for Shape
To encourage branching and low growth on young plants, pinching is recommended. To pinch the plant, use your fingers or pruning snips to remove the center growth from the top of a stem. Take care not to damage the buds or small leaf sets on either side of the center growth; these buds are where the branching will occur. Pinch back new plants when they are about 8 inches tall. You can still pinch off up to 2 inches after blooms start to appear, but it will delay flowering. The result is sedum with more horizontal growth, less vertical growth and added fullness.
Late Spring Pruning
A more severe pruning is required to encourage bushiness on an older plant that has gotten top heavy or leggy. To encourage new plant growth and get a fuller plant, cut the sedum back by one-half in May or June. New flower buds will form on the cut stalks, so you won't be sacrificing any of the showy display for the sake of a neater looking plant. Choose a point about halfway down a stalk and just above a set of leaves to make your cut. Cut cleanly through the stalk with sharp pruning shears, taking care not to damage the leaf set. Repeat with each stalk until the sedum is a uniform height.
Early Spring Pruning
Some varieties of tall sedum, such as "Autumn Joy" (Sedum x "Autumn Joy"), which grows in USDA zones 5 through 9, flower through the winter and need cut back in late winter or early spring. You can cut the sedum back in winter as soon as the flowers fade or any time after that until you see green peeping from the ground in spring. Cut the entire plant back to ground level using pruning shears or break the stalks at ground level by hand. In the spring, the sedum will re-emerge from the roots.
Year-Round Pruning
Some types of pruning are necessary year-round. This includes pruning out dead plant growth and cutting out diseased plant material. Removing these from your sedum as you see them will help keep the plant looking its best, keep it healthy and less prone to fungal or insect infestations. Cut dead stalks back to the base of the stalk. Pull any dead leaves when you spot them. Remove diseased portions of the plant to keep disease from spreading. Make sure you cut back far enough that you are leaving only healthy plant material. Make the cut just above a leaf set for new growth. Do not compost diseased sedum material.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月15日
No matter where you live, you can quickly bring a taste of the tropics to your indoor or outdoor garden by growing bird of paradise. Known botanically as Strelitzia reginae, this colorful, eye-catching plant lights up any garden.
Bird of Paradise Features
Showy bird of paradise flowers consist of orange, blue and white, which form to resemble an exotic bird's beak. There's also a variety that has all white flowers. Each bird of paradise flower can last up to two weeks on or off the plant. The plant's foliage is also dramatic. The large, green, textural leaves make a statement even when the plant isn't blooming.
Bird of Paradise History
Native to South Africa, bird of paradise is widely cultivated throughout South America today. The plant got its botanical name when it was introduced to England in 1773 by Sir Joseph Banks, who ran Kew Gardens at the time. He named the plant Strelitzia after Queen Charlotte, wife of George III. She lived at Kew Gardens for several years.
Where to Grow Bird of Paradise
Bird of paradise makes an excellent accent in the landscape. Use the plant around pools and spas to add a tropical feel or put bird of paradise in a pot and display it as a focal point. When grown in containers, bird of paradise can be displayed on patios, balconies and decks.
Bird of paradise requires full sun outdoors to thrive. The plant is frost sensitive, so it can only be grown outdoors year-round in frost-free climates, such as zones 9 through 12. If you wish to grow bird of paradise outdoors in other zones, do so in the spring and summer when night temperatures are 60 degrees and above. Grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors when nighttime temperatures drop in fall.
Bird of Paradise Grown as a Houseplant
Bird of paradise does well when grown indoors as a houseplant, as such a warm environment is ideal. The plant requires a bright, sunny location, such as in front of an eastern or southern window. Bird of paradise also does well when grown under full-spectrum lighting.
Bird of Paradise Care and Maintenance
With consistent care, bird of paradise can thrive. Though the plant is drought tolerant once established, it grows best when you keep the soil moist but not soggy. This will generally require that you water the plant once a week when grown in the ground. Container-grown plants will require more frequent watering, especially when temperatures are high.
Fertilize bird of paradise once in spring and again in summer with an all-purpose fertilizer designed for flowering plants. Always follow the package directions on the fertilizer, as too much can burn plant roots and damage the plant.
Bird of paradise is a self-cleaning plant that tends to shed its own leaves when necessary. That means it rarely needs pruning. When you do prune, remove dead foliage and spent flower stalks.
Bird of Paradise Features
Showy bird of paradise flowers consist of orange, blue and white, which form to resemble an exotic bird's beak. There's also a variety that has all white flowers. Each bird of paradise flower can last up to two weeks on or off the plant. The plant's foliage is also dramatic. The large, green, textural leaves make a statement even when the plant isn't blooming.
Bird of Paradise History
Native to South Africa, bird of paradise is widely cultivated throughout South America today. The plant got its botanical name when it was introduced to England in 1773 by Sir Joseph Banks, who ran Kew Gardens at the time. He named the plant Strelitzia after Queen Charlotte, wife of George III. She lived at Kew Gardens for several years.
Where to Grow Bird of Paradise
Bird of paradise makes an excellent accent in the landscape. Use the plant around pools and spas to add a tropical feel or put bird of paradise in a pot and display it as a focal point. When grown in containers, bird of paradise can be displayed on patios, balconies and decks.
Bird of paradise requires full sun outdoors to thrive. The plant is frost sensitive, so it can only be grown outdoors year-round in frost-free climates, such as zones 9 through 12. If you wish to grow bird of paradise outdoors in other zones, do so in the spring and summer when night temperatures are 60 degrees and above. Grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors when nighttime temperatures drop in fall.
Bird of Paradise Grown as a Houseplant
Bird of paradise does well when grown indoors as a houseplant, as such a warm environment is ideal. The plant requires a bright, sunny location, such as in front of an eastern or southern window. Bird of paradise also does well when grown under full-spectrum lighting.
Bird of Paradise Care and Maintenance
With consistent care, bird of paradise can thrive. Though the plant is drought tolerant once established, it grows best when you keep the soil moist but not soggy. This will generally require that you water the plant once a week when grown in the ground. Container-grown plants will require more frequent watering, especially when temperatures are high.
Fertilize bird of paradise once in spring and again in summer with an all-purpose fertilizer designed for flowering plants. Always follow the package directions on the fertilizer, as too much can burn plant roots and damage the plant.
Bird of paradise is a self-cleaning plant that tends to shed its own leaves when necessary. That means it rarely needs pruning. When you do prune, remove dead foliage and spent flower stalks.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月13日
Cordyline australis, also known as cabbage palm, is an exotic-looking tropical plant available in a variety of sizes and colors. The lance-shaped leaves are green or red with visible veins in shades of red, green or purple. Cordyline australis is a non-fussy plant ideal for beginners, with enough visual interest to captivate the most experienced gardeners. Cordyline australis is suitable for growing in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 10b to 11. In cooler climates, plant Cordyline australis in a container, then grow the plant as an indoor plant or bring it indoors before the temperature drops in autumn.
Step 1
Plant Cordyline australis in nearly any well-drained soil where the plant will be exposed to moderate sunlight. A location with plenty of bright morning sunlight is best, as hot afternoon sunlight is too intense. If you prefer to grow Cordyline australis indoors as a potted houseplant, locate the plant near, but not directly in front of a sunny window. Containerized plants do best when planted in a pot filled with any commercial potting soil. A pot with a drainage hole is crucial.
Step 2
Water Cordyline australis only when the soil feels dry, as the plant is drought-tolerant and may rot if soil is allowed to remain soggy. Water deeply enough to reach the roots, then allow the soil to dry before watering again. Check containerized plants often, especially if the plants are located outdoors during warm weather. If the potting soil feels dry, water until the water runs through the drainage hole, then allow the excess water to drain freely.
Step 3
Fertilize Cordyline australis every other week. In-ground plants benefit from a balanced, liquid or granular fertilizer applied at the rate specified on the fertilizer label. Feed containerized plants a balanced water-soluble fertilizer mixed according to specifications on the container. Always apply fertilizer to moist soil, then water deeply immediately after fertilizing to ensure the fertilizer reaches the root zone. Avoid splashing fertilizer on the foliage.
Step 1
Plant Cordyline australis in nearly any well-drained soil where the plant will be exposed to moderate sunlight. A location with plenty of bright morning sunlight is best, as hot afternoon sunlight is too intense. If you prefer to grow Cordyline australis indoors as a potted houseplant, locate the plant near, but not directly in front of a sunny window. Containerized plants do best when planted in a pot filled with any commercial potting soil. A pot with a drainage hole is crucial.
Step 2
Water Cordyline australis only when the soil feels dry, as the plant is drought-tolerant and may rot if soil is allowed to remain soggy. Water deeply enough to reach the roots, then allow the soil to dry before watering again. Check containerized plants often, especially if the plants are located outdoors during warm weather. If the potting soil feels dry, water until the water runs through the drainage hole, then allow the excess water to drain freely.
Step 3
Fertilize Cordyline australis every other week. In-ground plants benefit from a balanced, liquid or granular fertilizer applied at the rate specified on the fertilizer label. Feed containerized plants a balanced water-soluble fertilizer mixed according to specifications on the container. Always apply fertilizer to moist soil, then water deeply immediately after fertilizing to ensure the fertilizer reaches the root zone. Avoid splashing fertilizer on the foliage.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月12日
Varieged ginger (Alpinia zerumbet) is a dramatic, upright plant with long, sword-shaped leaves variegated in shades of yellow and green. Fragrant pink and white flowers adorn the plant throughout much of the year. Variegated ginger, which grows from underground rhizomes that look much like ginger root, is propagated by dividing the rhizomes of mature plants. A warm-climate plant, variegated ginger is suitable for planting in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 to 11.
Growing Requirements
Variegated ginger is a versatile plant that tolerates a range of growing conditions from full shade to full sun, but the plant is happiest in partial shade and benefits from protection during the hot part of the afternoon. The plant tolerates nearly any well-drained soil, but prefers rich organic soil.
Propagation by Division
To divide variegated shell ginger, use a shovel or garden fork to dig an entire clump. Alternatively, if the clump is very large, use a shovel to dig a section of the plant's outer edge. Lift the clump from the ground, then pull the rhizomes apart. Plant the rhizomes with the shoots attached, or remove the shoots and plant the rhizomes.
Planting Divisions
Plant divided ginger in soil that you have prepared ahead of time. Variegated ginger likes fertile soil and benefits from the addition of 2 to 4 inches of organic matter such as leaf mold, compost or decomposed manure. Plant the rhizomes, or the rhizomes with shoots attached, at the same soil depth the rhizomes were located in their original planting spot. Cover the rhizomes with soil, then pat the soil firmly over the rhizomes. Water the area immediately after planting.
General Care
Variegated ginger is moderately drought tolerant, but does best in soil kept consistently moist. Regular watering is especially critical during periods of hot, dry weather, or if the plant is located in full sunlight. Water often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Fertilize variegated ginger every other month, using a balanced, dry fertilizer. Apply fertilizer in accordance with the specifications provided on the label.
Growing Requirements
Variegated ginger is a versatile plant that tolerates a range of growing conditions from full shade to full sun, but the plant is happiest in partial shade and benefits from protection during the hot part of the afternoon. The plant tolerates nearly any well-drained soil, but prefers rich organic soil.
Propagation by Division
To divide variegated shell ginger, use a shovel or garden fork to dig an entire clump. Alternatively, if the clump is very large, use a shovel to dig a section of the plant's outer edge. Lift the clump from the ground, then pull the rhizomes apart. Plant the rhizomes with the shoots attached, or remove the shoots and plant the rhizomes.
Planting Divisions
Plant divided ginger in soil that you have prepared ahead of time. Variegated ginger likes fertile soil and benefits from the addition of 2 to 4 inches of organic matter such as leaf mold, compost or decomposed manure. Plant the rhizomes, or the rhizomes with shoots attached, at the same soil depth the rhizomes were located in their original planting spot. Cover the rhizomes with soil, then pat the soil firmly over the rhizomes. Water the area immediately after planting.
General Care
Variegated ginger is moderately drought tolerant, but does best in soil kept consistently moist. Regular watering is especially critical during periods of hot, dry weather, or if the plant is located in full sunlight. Water often enough to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Fertilize variegated ginger every other month, using a balanced, dry fertilizer. Apply fertilizer in accordance with the specifications provided on the label.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月11日
Boston fern, known botanically as Nephrolepis exaltata "Bostoniensis" is a tropical fern commonly grown as a patio, porch or indoor plant. According to the University of Rhode Island, "Bostoniensis" is a cultivar that demands high ambient humidity and consistently moist soil. Watering the soil is but one way that you will need to deliver moisture to your plant to keep it healthy. To prevent your fern from suffering browning leaf tips or frond die-back, vigilant care is needed, and the higher you can get the humidity around your Boston fern, the happier it will be.
Step 1
Water the soil of your Boston fern consistently to keep it evenly very moist to the touch but not drowning in stagnant water. Unlike some ferns, Boston fern cannot tolerate its soil to be dry, even on the surface, between waterings. In hot and dry climes, daily watering may be required, while gardeners in cool, rainy climes can offer less frequent irrigation.
Step 2
Boost the ambient humidity passively by setting the fern pot atop a shallow tray filled with stones or marbles and water. Keep the bottom of the pot above the water resting on the stones but refill the tray reservoir frequently to keep the water level high.
Step 3
Mist your Boston fern frequently with a spray bottle filled with distilled water. In low humidity environs or when heating and cooling is being used, daily misting may help keep the fronds green. Refrain from misting with tap water as the treatment chemicals, salts and minerals in the water can damage the leaves.
Step 1
Water the soil of your Boston fern consistently to keep it evenly very moist to the touch but not drowning in stagnant water. Unlike some ferns, Boston fern cannot tolerate its soil to be dry, even on the surface, between waterings. In hot and dry climes, daily watering may be required, while gardeners in cool, rainy climes can offer less frequent irrigation.
Step 2
Boost the ambient humidity passively by setting the fern pot atop a shallow tray filled with stones or marbles and water. Keep the bottom of the pot above the water resting on the stones but refill the tray reservoir frequently to keep the water level high.
Step 3
Mist your Boston fern frequently with a spray bottle filled with distilled water. In low humidity environs or when heating and cooling is being used, daily misting may help keep the fronds green. Refrain from misting with tap water as the treatment chemicals, salts and minerals in the water can damage the leaves.
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求助
kimberly
2018年08月10日
Can anyone ID this plant?
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PCunha：Acanthocereus tetragonus
PCunha：Fairy Castle.
Fion：万重山
胡杨：万重山仙人掌
求助
kimberly
2018年08月10日
Can anyone ID this plant?
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Beulah：cereus peruvianus aka "brain cacti"
Fion：膨珊瑚
文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
Cordyline fruticosa, also called Hawaiian ti, is an evergreen shrub that performs well grown outside in warm and humid, frost-free climates. It is hardy and requires little care growing throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12. It works well planted in containers and grown indoors or outside on patios. The plant is palmlike, growing up to 10 feet in height. Depending on the cultivar, the glossy foliage is purplish-red, green or streaked with combinations of purples, reds, white or yellow. In springtime, mature plants produce small yellow or reddish blooms.
Growing Outdoors
Step 1
Remove unwanted vegetation such as weeds or grass from a planting site located in partial sun to partial shade. Select a location with well-drained soil. Remove the vegetation by hand-pulling and raking, or treating the area with herbicide.
Step 2
Inspect the Cordyline fruticosa root ball for wrapping before planting, as wrapping roots slows root development. Pull any wrapping roots gently apart with your hands.
Step 3
Plant the Cordyline fruticosa at the same depth it was growing inside its pot. Dig a hole as deep as the container and one time wider. Place the plant into the hole and backfill with soil.
Step 4
Water Cordyline fruticosa after planting, saturating its root system. Water the planting site regularly to keep the soil moist, especially during warm, dry seasons.
Step 5
Prune to remove dead foliage or to propagate new plants from stem cuttings. Snip off dead leaves using pruning shears, as the plant's lower foliage dies as the plant ages.
Step 6
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use an insecticidal product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Container-grown
Step 1
Grow the Cordyline fruticosa in a draining container that is one time larger than its root ball. Fill the container with a well-drained potting mix amended with a slow-release fertilizer. Follow package instructions concerning fertilizer amounts.
Step 2
Water the container regularly to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water until it runs from the container's bottom drain holes. Fill a plastic spray bottle with water and mist indoor-grown Cordyline fruticosa plants weekly to create humidity.
Step 3
Situate outdoor containers in an area that receives partial sun to partial shade. Situate indoor containers in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Step 4
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use a product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Step 5
Snip off dead foliage. Use pruning shears and trim away any dead leaves.
Growing Outdoors
Step 1
Remove unwanted vegetation such as weeds or grass from a planting site located in partial sun to partial shade. Select a location with well-drained soil. Remove the vegetation by hand-pulling and raking, or treating the area with herbicide.
Step 2
Inspect the Cordyline fruticosa root ball for wrapping before planting, as wrapping roots slows root development. Pull any wrapping roots gently apart with your hands.
Step 3
Plant the Cordyline fruticosa at the same depth it was growing inside its pot. Dig a hole as deep as the container and one time wider. Place the plant into the hole and backfill with soil.
Step 4
Water Cordyline fruticosa after planting, saturating its root system. Water the planting site regularly to keep the soil moist, especially during warm, dry seasons.
Step 5
Prune to remove dead foliage or to propagate new plants from stem cuttings. Snip off dead leaves using pruning shears, as the plant's lower foliage dies as the plant ages.
Step 6
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use an insecticidal product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Container-grown
Step 1
Grow the Cordyline fruticosa in a draining container that is one time larger than its root ball. Fill the container with a well-drained potting mix amended with a slow-release fertilizer. Follow package instructions concerning fertilizer amounts.
Step 2
Water the container regularly to keep the soil moist but not soggy. Water until it runs from the container's bottom drain holes. Fill a plastic spray bottle with water and mist indoor-grown Cordyline fruticosa plants weekly to create humidity.
Step 3
Situate outdoor containers in an area that receives partial sun to partial shade. Situate indoor containers in an area that receives bright, indirect light.
Step 4
Treat any pest problems such as spider mites, scale or aphids. Use a product safe for use on Cordyline fruticosa and apply according to the product's instructions.
Step 5
Snip off dead foliage. Use pruning shears and trim away any dead leaves.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
To grow papayas, you need only four things: a frost-free climate, oodles of sunshine, plenty of water and excellent soil. If you can give your plant these things, the entire wonderful world of papaya cultivation can be yours.
Tropical Papayas
Papaya trees (Carica papaya) are native to the tropical areas of Mexico and South America. They are currently cultivated in warm areas around the world, including Florida in the United States. Papaya trees are grown for their sweet fruit, called the papaya or pawpaw. It is usually eaten raw without the skin, and is rich in potassium and vitamin A.
Although papayas are large fruits, they grow on small trees that have a definite tropical look. The trees grow fast into woody stems 10 to 12 feet tall and a few inches wide on the top. The trunks are straight and hollow, green or purple in color, with huge leaves emerging from the upper part of the stem in a spiral. The leaf blade, deeply divided into segments, can grow to 2 feet wide.
The trees bear fleshy flowers, some male, some female, some bisexual. Nobody is exactly sure how pollination takes place in papayas. The best guess is that most are wind-pollinated, but thrips and moths may also help.
Two main types of papayas are available in commerce, Hawaiian and Mexican. The fruit of Hawaiian varieties weigh about 1 pound. They are pear-shaped and yellow with orange or pink flesh. Small black seeds cluster in the center of the fruit. Mexican papayas are huge in comparison, weighing up to 10 pounds. The flavor is not quite as intense as the Hawaiian fruit, but also delicious. A mature papaya is juicy, with a flavor not unlike a cantaloupe. It contains a substance called papain that aids in digestion and can help to tenderize meat.
Growing Papayas
These trees thrive only in subtropical and tropical climates. Grow them in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. Don't try to grow them outside if temperatures in your area ever drop below freezing, since the plants will not tolerate low temperatures.
The plants grow best in a warm, full-sun location. They thrive on heat and sunlight, so give them plenty of both. Papaya trees also like regular meals, so add compost to the soil and fertilize the plants regularly with plant-specific fertilizer containing nitrogen.
They also need considerable amounts of water to keep their large leaves moist. Irrigation is perhaps the most critical aspect of growing papayas. Although they need water, the plants must be kept on the dry side to avoid root rot. And in winter, the papaya plant is better off without any excess water. Be sure their soil has excellent drainage to allow all irrigation to pass through. The soil should be rich in organic content as well.
The fruit is ripe when most of the skin of the papaya changes color and becomes yellow-green. Allow the picked fruit to continue ripening by keeping it at room temperature.
Tropical Papayas
Papaya trees (Carica papaya) are native to the tropical areas of Mexico and South America. They are currently cultivated in warm areas around the world, including Florida in the United States. Papaya trees are grown for their sweet fruit, called the papaya or pawpaw. It is usually eaten raw without the skin, and is rich in potassium and vitamin A.
Although papayas are large fruits, they grow on small trees that have a definite tropical look. The trees grow fast into woody stems 10 to 12 feet tall and a few inches wide on the top. The trunks are straight and hollow, green or purple in color, with huge leaves emerging from the upper part of the stem in a spiral. The leaf blade, deeply divided into segments, can grow to 2 feet wide.
The trees bear fleshy flowers, some male, some female, some bisexual. Nobody is exactly sure how pollination takes place in papayas. The best guess is that most are wind-pollinated, but thrips and moths may also help.
Two main types of papayas are available in commerce, Hawaiian and Mexican. The fruit of Hawaiian varieties weigh about 1 pound. They are pear-shaped and yellow with orange or pink flesh. Small black seeds cluster in the center of the fruit. Mexican papayas are huge in comparison, weighing up to 10 pounds. The flavor is not quite as intense as the Hawaiian fruit, but also delicious. A mature papaya is juicy, with a flavor not unlike a cantaloupe. It contains a substance called papain that aids in digestion and can help to tenderize meat.
Growing Papayas
These trees thrive only in subtropical and tropical climates. Grow them in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 to 11. Don't try to grow them outside if temperatures in your area ever drop below freezing, since the plants will not tolerate low temperatures.
The plants grow best in a warm, full-sun location. They thrive on heat and sunlight, so give them plenty of both. Papaya trees also like regular meals, so add compost to the soil and fertilize the plants regularly with plant-specific fertilizer containing nitrogen.
They also need considerable amounts of water to keep their large leaves moist. Irrigation is perhaps the most critical aspect of growing papayas. Although they need water, the plants must be kept on the dry side to avoid root rot. And in winter, the papaya plant is better off without any excess water. Be sure their soil has excellent drainage to allow all irrigation to pass through. The soil should be rich in organic content as well.
The fruit is ripe when most of the skin of the papaya changes color and becomes yellow-green. Allow the picked fruit to continue ripening by keeping it at room temperature.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年08月10日
You probably know chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum spp.) -- or mums -- as familiar plants covered with colorful flowers that brighten the fall landscape. Although often seen in plant nurseries as container-grown specimens ready to flower in early fall, they are hardy perennial plants. The variety commonly called hardy garden mum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), for example, grows as a perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 9. When planted in spring within their growing range and given the right kind of summer care, mums become well-established and usually return each spring to bring their bright colors to the fall garden.
Watering and Feeding
If you plant young mums in spring or overwintered mums showing new growth, then keep them well-watered during late spring and into the summer months. Regular supplies of moisture is especially important for them during hot, dry weather. So water the plants deeply whenever the top 1 inch of their soil feels dry to the touch. During dry spells, a good rule of thumb is to water once each week, but water at each plant's base to keep foliage dry and discourage the growth of fungus. Adding 2 or 3 inches of organic mulch such as shredded bark on the soil surface under the plants helps conserve soil moisture, but keep the mulch back a bit from each plant's center to help prevent fungal diseases.
Feeding, or fertilizing, mums during their growing season -- late spring through summer -- also helps them put out strong growth and set lots of flower buds. Use a water-soluble, high-phosphorous fertilizer formula such as 5-10-5 to boost blooming, diluting the fertilizer by mixing 1 tablespoon of it in 1 gallon of water. Apply the fertilizer solution once each month during the growing season for the best results, using it instead of a regular watering.
Pinching Back for Bushiness
If you plant young mum plants in the garden in spring or grow mums from the previous season, then pinch off the tips on their new stems when they are about 6 inches long, using your fingertips or shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of plant diseases. When new side shoots -- laterals -- sprout at each trimmed tip, also pinch them back when they're 6 to 8 inches long. Continue trimming back new shoots as they appear until midsummer. Then let the plants grow without further cutting. This approach produces compact but bushy mums with masses of flower buds.
Avoiding Problems
Mums are usually trouble-free and simple to grow, but they may develop a fungal disease if grown in overly wet conditions. You could see white powder from powdery mildew on their leaves, or gray mold could cause grayish deposits on the leaves and stems. Keeping plants well-spaced for good air circulation and watering each plant at its base helps avoid these fungal problems. If you see signs of fungus, though, it's best to remove the affected parts of the plants, cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged parts. Discard all plant debris on a regular basis because it can harbor fungus. If a fungal problem is severe, remove mulch from under the plants to help the plants dry quickly after rain or watering.
Mums are usually pest-free, but small, mahogany-tinted insects called chrysanthemum aphids might become a problem, sucking plant juices and slowing plant growth. A chrysanthemum aphid nymph is 2/100 to 4/100 inch long; an adult without wings is 6/100 inch long, and an adult with wings can grow almost 1/10 inch long. If you see these pests on a mum, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap concentrate per 1 gallon of water, and repeat the treatment every two weeks as needed.
Watering and Feeding
If you plant young mums in spring or overwintered mums showing new growth, then keep them well-watered during late spring and into the summer months. Regular supplies of moisture is especially important for them during hot, dry weather. So water the plants deeply whenever the top 1 inch of their soil feels dry to the touch. During dry spells, a good rule of thumb is to water once each week, but water at each plant's base to keep foliage dry and discourage the growth of fungus. Adding 2 or 3 inches of organic mulch such as shredded bark on the soil surface under the plants helps conserve soil moisture, but keep the mulch back a bit from each plant's center to help prevent fungal diseases.
Feeding, or fertilizing, mums during their growing season -- late spring through summer -- also helps them put out strong growth and set lots of flower buds. Use a water-soluble, high-phosphorous fertilizer formula such as 5-10-5 to boost blooming, diluting the fertilizer by mixing 1 tablespoon of it in 1 gallon of water. Apply the fertilizer solution once each month during the growing season for the best results, using it instead of a regular watering.
Pinching Back for Bushiness
If you plant young mum plants in the garden in spring or grow mums from the previous season, then pinch off the tips on their new stems when they are about 6 inches long, using your fingertips or shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of plant diseases. When new side shoots -- laterals -- sprout at each trimmed tip, also pinch them back when they're 6 to 8 inches long. Continue trimming back new shoots as they appear until midsummer. Then let the plants grow without further cutting. This approach produces compact but bushy mums with masses of flower buds.
Avoiding Problems
Mums are usually trouble-free and simple to grow, but they may develop a fungal disease if grown in overly wet conditions. You could see white powder from powdery mildew on their leaves, or gray mold could cause grayish deposits on the leaves and stems. Keeping plants well-spaced for good air circulation and watering each plant at its base helps avoid these fungal problems. If you see signs of fungus, though, it's best to remove the affected parts of the plants, cutting into healthy tissue behind the damaged parts. Discard all plant debris on a regular basis because it can harbor fungus. If a fungal problem is severe, remove mulch from under the plants to help the plants dry quickly after rain or watering.
Mums are usually pest-free, but small, mahogany-tinted insects called chrysanthemum aphids might become a problem, sucking plant juices and slowing plant growth. A chrysanthemum aphid nymph is 2/100 to 4/100 inch long; an adult without wings is 6/100 inch long, and an adult with wings can grow almost 1/10 inch long. If you see these pests on a mum, spray the plant with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons of insecticidal soap concentrate per 1 gallon of water, and repeat the treatment every two weeks as needed.
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求助
Ueca
2018年08月09日
What plant is in the square plant? Seems natural to Ontario.
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ChiaJu：Glechoma hederacea
Ueca：I have those at home, but these ones are smaller and don't live in water.
Fion：崩大碗
