文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The ZZ Plant gets its common name from its botanical name. As Zamioculcas zamiifolia was long and difficult to say, many nursery workers simply shortened it to ZZ.
ZZ Plant stems grow in a graceful, wand-like shape that starts thick and bulbous at the base and then tapers to a point. Along the stem are fleshy, oval-shaped leaves that make the plant look like stylized feathers. The entire plant has a waxy, shiny coating that makes it appear to resemble those made of plastic. Between the sculptural qualities of the plant and its waxy coating, it is not uncommon for people to insist that it must be an artificial plant.
If ever there was the perfect plant for the ultimate brown thumb, the easy ZZ Plant is it. This virtually indestructible houseplant can take months and months of neglect and low light and still look amazing. Previously, the ZZ Plant would only be found in planters in malls and large office buildings where they would frequently be mistaken for fake plants, partially because they needed so little care and always looked healthy. But in recent years, they have found their way onto the shelves of both big box and hardware stores where anyone can purchase one. This has led to many people wondering how to grow ZZ Plants. The short answer is that it takes very little effort.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light is good but not essential. The ZZ Plant grows fine with low levels of light, but it’s best to avoid direct sunlight.
Water: Allow the soil to become dry at the top to the touch between watering and do not over water. It’s best to water this plant less than too much because over-watering can cause stem and rhizome rot.
Temperature: During the rest period should be kept at above 59°F (15°C) if grown on its own roots, 46°F (8°C) if grafted.
Soil: Most well draining potting mixes will suffice that contains a high amount of perlite or sand within the mix (you can add more perlite or sand if needed to a mix that is bought). Good drainage holes at the bottom of the pot is essential.
Repotting
I would repot the ZZ Plant once a year at the beginning of spring, especially during the first 3 – 5 years – whilst it’s growing up.
Pruning
Cut away leaflets that are turning yellow near the base of a stem. Once a stem has grown much longer than all other stems you can remove that stem or cut it to size at the tip. The problem with cutting it to size at the tip is it can look quite odd, so removing it completely might be the best option.
Propagation
You may propagate by dividing rhizomes or with leaf cuttings. Leaf cuttings have to be placed in a pot with a plastic covering and then the wait for roots to begin growing, which could take up to a year.
Grower’s Tips
ZZ Plant care starts with a lack of care. In fact, ZZ Plants will do better if you leave them alone. Much like cacti, they need less rather than more water. Water the plant only when the soil has dried out. The rare way you can kill this plant is to over water it. A ZZ Plant turning yellow means that it is getting too much water and its underground rhizomes may be rotting. So if you remember nothing else about caring for a ZZ Plant, just remember to forget to water it. It can survive months without water, but will grow faster if watered somewhat regularly.
ZZ Plants are happy without fertilizer, but if you would like, you can give the plants half strength fertilizer one to two times a year and only in the summer months. Growing ZZ houseplants is easy and especially suited for the forgetful gardener.
ZZ Plant stems grow in a graceful, wand-like shape that starts thick and bulbous at the base and then tapers to a point. Along the stem are fleshy, oval-shaped leaves that make the plant look like stylized feathers. The entire plant has a waxy, shiny coating that makes it appear to resemble those made of plastic. Between the sculptural qualities of the plant and its waxy coating, it is not uncommon for people to insist that it must be an artificial plant.
If ever there was the perfect plant for the ultimate brown thumb, the easy ZZ Plant is it. This virtually indestructible houseplant can take months and months of neglect and low light and still look amazing. Previously, the ZZ Plant would only be found in planters in malls and large office buildings where they would frequently be mistaken for fake plants, partially because they needed so little care and always looked healthy. But in recent years, they have found their way onto the shelves of both big box and hardware stores where anyone can purchase one. This has led to many people wondering how to grow ZZ Plants. The short answer is that it takes very little effort.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light is good but not essential. The ZZ Plant grows fine with low levels of light, but it’s best to avoid direct sunlight.
Water: Allow the soil to become dry at the top to the touch between watering and do not over water. It’s best to water this plant less than too much because over-watering can cause stem and rhizome rot.
Temperature: During the rest period should be kept at above 59°F (15°C) if grown on its own roots, 46°F (8°C) if grafted.
Soil: Most well draining potting mixes will suffice that contains a high amount of perlite or sand within the mix (you can add more perlite or sand if needed to a mix that is bought). Good drainage holes at the bottom of the pot is essential.
Repotting
I would repot the ZZ Plant once a year at the beginning of spring, especially during the first 3 – 5 years – whilst it’s growing up.
Pruning
Cut away leaflets that are turning yellow near the base of a stem. Once a stem has grown much longer than all other stems you can remove that stem or cut it to size at the tip. The problem with cutting it to size at the tip is it can look quite odd, so removing it completely might be the best option.
Propagation
You may propagate by dividing rhizomes or with leaf cuttings. Leaf cuttings have to be placed in a pot with a plastic covering and then the wait for roots to begin growing, which could take up to a year.
Grower’s Tips
ZZ Plant care starts with a lack of care. In fact, ZZ Plants will do better if you leave them alone. Much like cacti, they need less rather than more water. Water the plant only when the soil has dried out. The rare way you can kill this plant is to over water it. A ZZ Plant turning yellow means that it is getting too much water and its underground rhizomes may be rotting. So if you remember nothing else about caring for a ZZ Plant, just remember to forget to water it. It can survive months without water, but will grow faster if watered somewhat regularly.
ZZ Plants are happy without fertilizer, but if you would like, you can give the plants half strength fertilizer one to two times a year and only in the summer months. Growing ZZ houseplants is easy and especially suited for the forgetful gardener.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Peperomia is a relatively easy, compact, and attractive little plant to grow. They are neither as striking as Begonias nor as hardy as Dracaena, which may account for their relatively low profile in the world of houseplants. But these plants have all the features we look for in houseplants: variability, interesting leaves, and tolerance for a relatively wide range of conditions. Although it may be tempting to think of Peperomia as succulents, due to their thick, slightly succulent leaves, that would be a mistake because they generally prefer higher humidity and more water than most succulents. In fact, these plants are native to South American rain forests, where they grow quite happily in the loamy, dappled light, cool understory of the rain forest.
Growing Conditions
Light: Peperomia do well in light to moderate light, such as found in a northern or east-facing window. They can be easily grown under fluorescent lights.
Water: Keep the soil moist during the growing season and provide relatively high humidity through spraying or by setting the pot in a gravel tray.
Temperature: Average. Peperomia do well in the relatively cool environment of most homes (although they dislike the dry). Aim for 65˚F to 75˚F (18˚C to 24˚C).
Soil: A loose, well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize biweekly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer or use controlled-release fertilizer pellets at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Peperomia thrives when slightly pot-bound, so don’t over pot them. Repot plants in spring, especially to refresh the existing soil, but place either back into the same size container after root-pruning or go up only one pot size. The largest Peperomia remain relatively small, so they will never grow into large specimen plants.
Propagation
Most Peperomia species can be relatively easily propagated from leaf cuttings, similar to the way African violets are propagated. Remove large leaves with their stalks (petioles) and bury in seedling starting soil. Use of a rooting hormone can increase odds of success. Place the cutting in a warm, bright place until new growth emerges.
Grower’s Tips
Peperomia are not particularly hard plants to grow, and their small size and delicate leaves make them perfect for desktops and dish gardens. They will rarely overtake their neighbors or shade them out. In short, they are perfectly mannered and attractive little plants. The biggest problem facing Peperomia are usually related to watering. They like steadily moist soil, but can be very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatered Peperomia tend to wilt (paradoxically) or have raised, scab-like protrusions on their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your plant loses a few bottom leaves, but massive leaf-drop is usually due to a temperature change or fertilizer problem. Lastly, Peperomia are susceptible to mealybugs, so keep an eye out for cottony white masses on the stems or undersides of leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Peperomia do well in light to moderate light, such as found in a northern or east-facing window. They can be easily grown under fluorescent lights.
Water: Keep the soil moist during the growing season and provide relatively high humidity through spraying or by setting the pot in a gravel tray.
Temperature: Average. Peperomia do well in the relatively cool environment of most homes (although they dislike the dry). Aim for 65˚F to 75˚F (18˚C to 24˚C).
Soil: A loose, well-drained, very rich potting mix.
Fertilizer: Fertilize biweekly during the growing season with a diluted liquid fertilizer or use controlled-release fertilizer pellets at the beginning of the growing season.
Repotting
Peperomia thrives when slightly pot-bound, so don’t over pot them. Repot plants in spring, especially to refresh the existing soil, but place either back into the same size container after root-pruning or go up only one pot size. The largest Peperomia remain relatively small, so they will never grow into large specimen plants.
Propagation
Most Peperomia species can be relatively easily propagated from leaf cuttings, similar to the way African violets are propagated. Remove large leaves with their stalks (petioles) and bury in seedling starting soil. Use of a rooting hormone can increase odds of success. Place the cutting in a warm, bright place until new growth emerges.
Grower’s Tips
Peperomia are not particularly hard plants to grow, and their small size and delicate leaves make them perfect for desktops and dish gardens. They will rarely overtake their neighbors or shade them out. In short, they are perfectly mannered and attractive little plants. The biggest problem facing Peperomia are usually related to watering. They like steadily moist soil, but can be very sensitive to overwatering. Overwatered Peperomia tend to wilt (paradoxically) or have raised, scab-like protrusions on their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your plant loses a few bottom leaves, but massive leaf-drop is usually due to a temperature change or fertilizer problem. Lastly, Peperomia are susceptible to mealybugs, so keep an eye out for cottony white masses on the stems or undersides of leaves.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
People have been growing Aloe vera for literally thousands of years. It is one of the most widely used medicinal plants on the planet. If you are wondering, “How can I grow an aloe plant?” We are here to tell you that taking care of an Aloe Vera plant in your home is easy.
Keep reading to learn more about how to grow and care for an Aloe Vera plant.
Growing Conditions
The first step in Aloe Vera care is to realize that this plant is a succulent. Like cacti, succulents do best in dry conditions. When growing Aloe Vera plants, plant them in a cactus potting soil mix or a regular potting soil that has been amended with additional perlite or building sand. Also, make sure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. It cannot tolerate standing water.
One important thing in the care of Aloe Vera houseplants is that they have proper light. They need bright light, so they do best in south- or west-facing windows.
General Care
Another important part of how to grow an Aloe Vera is to water the plant properly. The soil should be allowed to go completely dry before being watered. When the plant is watered, the soil should be thoroughly drenched, but the water should be allowed to drain freely from the soil. The most common reason an Aloe Vera dies is that the owners water too often or do not allow the water to drain. Do not make this mistake when taking care of Aloe houseplants.You can fertilize your Aloe Vera, but Aloes do not need to be fertilized. If you decide to add fertilizing to part of your Aloe Vera plant care routine, plants should be fertilized once a year in the spring. You can use a phosphorus-heavy water-based fertilizer at half strength.
Growing Aloe Vera houseplants is not only easy but can also provide your family with a plant that can help treat minor burns and rashes. Now that you know a little more about how to care for an Aloe Vera plant, you need never be without this lovely and helpful plant.
Keep reading to learn more about how to grow and care for an Aloe Vera plant.
Growing Conditions
The first step in Aloe Vera care is to realize that this plant is a succulent. Like cacti, succulents do best in dry conditions. When growing Aloe Vera plants, plant them in a cactus potting soil mix or a regular potting soil that has been amended with additional perlite or building sand. Also, make sure that the pot has plenty of drainage holes. It cannot tolerate standing water.
One important thing in the care of Aloe Vera houseplants is that they have proper light. They need bright light, so they do best in south- or west-facing windows.
General Care
Another important part of how to grow an Aloe Vera is to water the plant properly. The soil should be allowed to go completely dry before being watered. When the plant is watered, the soil should be thoroughly drenched, but the water should be allowed to drain freely from the soil. The most common reason an Aloe Vera dies is that the owners water too often or do not allow the water to drain. Do not make this mistake when taking care of Aloe houseplants.You can fertilize your Aloe Vera, but Aloes do not need to be fertilized. If you decide to add fertilizing to part of your Aloe Vera plant care routine, plants should be fertilized once a year in the spring. You can use a phosphorus-heavy water-based fertilizer at half strength.
Growing Aloe Vera houseplants is not only easy but can also provide your family with a plant that can help treat minor burns and rashes. Now that you know a little more about how to care for an Aloe Vera plant, you need never be without this lovely and helpful plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents originally came from dry, arid areas such as deserts. There are also some succulents, such as Orchids, that do get rainfall, but they grow in branches or areas where the rain might not reach them so easily. Many succulents come from Africa and other areas that have long dry seasons and where plants have evolved ways of more effectively and efficiently storing and using water.
Succulents have been around for a long time, of course, and have been used as office plants and in indoor gardens for a long time. However, in recent years their popularity seems to have grown. The reasons for this are many:
They’re low maintenance. They require less watering and little to no pruning.
They come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors. This includes very tiny plants in small pots which can easily find a home on a desk.
They attract fewer pests. Many times plants bring about pests because of the constant need for watering. When you don’t have to water the plants as much, such as with succulents, the risk of pests reduces dramatically. The thick, waxy leaves of succulents are also more difficult for pests to penetrate and feed through.
They are easier for greenhouses and stores to sell. Since they can last a very long time without water they can sit on a truck for days, making transportation easier. Many succulents are very small, which allows growers to ship large numbers with lower freight costs. Some can even be packed in plastic bags and shipped across country. They can also be stored at the garden center much longer and last longer.
It’s very difficult for most to overgrow. One of the problems with some common indoor plants, like Pothos, is that they grow and eventually start to vine. This requires lots of maintenance and can be an inconvenience.
Succulents have been around for a long time, of course, and have been used as office plants and in indoor gardens for a long time. However, in recent years their popularity seems to have grown. The reasons for this are many:
They’re low maintenance. They require less watering and little to no pruning.
They come in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors. This includes very tiny plants in small pots which can easily find a home on a desk.
They attract fewer pests. Many times plants bring about pests because of the constant need for watering. When you don’t have to water the plants as much, such as with succulents, the risk of pests reduces dramatically. The thick, waxy leaves of succulents are also more difficult for pests to penetrate and feed through.
They are easier for greenhouses and stores to sell. Since they can last a very long time without water they can sit on a truck for days, making transportation easier. Many succulents are very small, which allows growers to ship large numbers with lower freight costs. Some can even be packed in plastic bags and shipped across country. They can also be stored at the garden center much longer and last longer.
It’s very difficult for most to overgrow. One of the problems with some common indoor plants, like Pothos, is that they grow and eventually start to vine. This requires lots of maintenance and can be an inconvenience.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
It’s possible to grow succulents in pots without drainage holes because they require less water than other plants and you only need to water them occasionally. Their specialized stems and leaves store water for long periods. Classic Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum tectorum) make a suitable succulent plant for beginners and grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Mix forms and colors of various succulent types to make a pleasing display.
The Root of the Problem
Few plants, including succulents, can survive their roots drowning in water. For plants to stay healthy, their roots need air. Overwatering causes a number of diseases and without taking steps to prevent wet roots, your succulents may succumb.
Scab is a disease caused by excess water. Symptoms include corky brown scabs appearing on the stems of the succulent. Some species of cactus are especially susceptible to scab. Decrease watering and increase light to fight scab.
Stem and root rot can kill overwatered succulents. Various soil fungi multiply in the presence of excess water. The plants wilt and a brown or black ring appears at the base of the stem, above the soil. If only the roots show disease, cut away rotted roots with a sharp knife and repot the plant in sterile soil. Wipe the blade between cuts with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to help prevent spreading the fungi.
Working With Containers That Don’t Drain
A few tricks help minimize the risk of diseases from wet soil. The main trick is to water the plant normally but after a few minutes, tip the planter sideways and drain out excess water.
Double potting helps overcome the problem of no drainage holes in a planter. Grow the succulent in a pot liner or smaller container that can sit inside the larger, nondraining container. Make at least four holes in the liner or small container if it doesn’t have them. Layer the bottom of the larger, outer planter with gravel.
After watering the plant, wait a few minutes for excess water to drip out of the smaller container. Lift the plant in the liner from the larger container and dump the excess water. After draining, place the liner or small planter back inside the larger one.
If the container doesn’t have drain holes, you’ll need to be more careful with watering. Water the container only enough to wet the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil. Allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. It should only need watering once every two weeks.
Potting Soil Choices
Succulents require soil that is loose and drains well. A cactus or succulent soil from the garden center works, or you can mix your own. When preparing the soil for a container, use a mixture that contains equal portions of sand and garden soil. If your budget allows, a better soil mixture is equal parts loam, sand, peat-moss and perlite. Aged compost can be substituted for loam.
Test the soil’s quality by moistening a handful of the mixture and trying to squeeze it into a ball. If it is the proper consistency for succulents, the soil will not become compacted but will fall apart.
Fertilize Lightly
Cacti only require fertilizer once or twice each year, during spring and summer, while other succulents should be fertilized three to four times during the summer. Choose a houseplant fertilizer such as 3-7-7 that has more phosphorus than nitrogen.
Dilute the mixture to one-half the standard concentration recommended on the product label, so mix 5 to 10 drops in 1 quart of water instead of 10 to 20 drops. Check the instructions as rates vary by brand. Soak the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil around the plants completely. Use the fertilizer solution in place of a regular watering.
The Right Light
Succulents need the right amount of light to keep them healthy. Outdoors, place them in full sun or part shade. Indoors, placing the planter near a sunny window should provide enough light, but a cool white fluorescent tube is a good substitute if direct sunlight is lacking. Place the tube 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) above the plant for 14 to16 hours each day. Use a timer to help automate the process.
The Root of the Problem
Few plants, including succulents, can survive their roots drowning in water. For plants to stay healthy, their roots need air. Overwatering causes a number of diseases and without taking steps to prevent wet roots, your succulents may succumb.
Scab is a disease caused by excess water. Symptoms include corky brown scabs appearing on the stems of the succulent. Some species of cactus are especially susceptible to scab. Decrease watering and increase light to fight scab.
Stem and root rot can kill overwatered succulents. Various soil fungi multiply in the presence of excess water. The plants wilt and a brown or black ring appears at the base of the stem, above the soil. If only the roots show disease, cut away rotted roots with a sharp knife and repot the plant in sterile soil. Wipe the blade between cuts with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to help prevent spreading the fungi.
Working With Containers That Don’t Drain
A few tricks help minimize the risk of diseases from wet soil. The main trick is to water the plant normally but after a few minutes, tip the planter sideways and drain out excess water.
Double potting helps overcome the problem of no drainage holes in a planter. Grow the succulent in a pot liner or smaller container that can sit inside the larger, nondraining container. Make at least four holes in the liner or small container if it doesn’t have them. Layer the bottom of the larger, outer planter with gravel.
After watering the plant, wait a few minutes for excess water to drip out of the smaller container. Lift the plant in the liner from the larger container and dump the excess water. After draining, place the liner or small planter back inside the larger one.
If the container doesn’t have drain holes, you’ll need to be more careful with watering. Water the container only enough to wet the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil. Allow the soil to dry completely before watering again. It should only need watering once every two weeks.
Potting Soil Choices
Succulents require soil that is loose and drains well. A cactus or succulent soil from the garden center works, or you can mix your own. When preparing the soil for a container, use a mixture that contains equal portions of sand and garden soil. If your budget allows, a better soil mixture is equal parts loam, sand, peat-moss and perlite. Aged compost can be substituted for loam.
Test the soil’s quality by moistening a handful of the mixture and trying to squeeze it into a ball. If it is the proper consistency for succulents, the soil will not become compacted but will fall apart.
Fertilize Lightly
Cacti only require fertilizer once or twice each year, during spring and summer, while other succulents should be fertilized three to four times during the summer. Choose a houseplant fertilizer such as 3-7-7 that has more phosphorus than nitrogen.
Dilute the mixture to one-half the standard concentration recommended on the product label, so mix 5 to 10 drops in 1 quart of water instead of 10 to 20 drops. Check the instructions as rates vary by brand. Soak the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil around the plants completely. Use the fertilizer solution in place of a regular watering.
The Right Light
Succulents need the right amount of light to keep them healthy. Outdoors, place them in full sun or part shade. Indoors, placing the planter near a sunny window should provide enough light, but a cool white fluorescent tube is a good substitute if direct sunlight is lacking. Place the tube 6 to 12 inches (15 to 30 cm) above the plant for 14 to16 hours each day. Use a timer to help automate the process.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Sedum morganianum also known as Donkey’s Tailis, is a popular and easy-to-grow trailing succulent with rows of fleshy, tear-dropped shaped leaves. It may also be called Burro’s Tail, Lamb’s Tail, or Horse’s Tail. These plants make excellent hanging subjects, or they can be used as trailers in small pots. A mature specimen might have branches up to 2 feet (60 cm) long, with dozens of grey-green, plump leaves lined up like droplets. Flowers readily emerge in late summer in hanging clusters of small blossoms in red, yellow or white.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Donkey’s Tail is perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Donkey’s Tail prefers average summer temps (65ºF to 70ºF/18ºC to 21ºC). In winter, can survive at 40ºF (5ºC), but prefers it slightly warmer.
Soil: A well-drained succulent potting soil, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed Donkey’s Tail with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a Donkey’s Tail, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Propagation
By seed or by cuttings. Individual leaves can be sprouted by placing them into a succulent or cactus potting soil, then covering the dish until they sprout. Large Donkey’s Tail plants can also be divided during repotting.
Grower’s Tips
Donkey’s Tails are pretty forgiving plants—if you forget to water them once or twice, they’ll probably be just fine. If you want your plant to really thrive, make sure to provide strong light, fertilizer during the growing season, and adequate moisture during the growing season. Too often, these are left to fend for themselves, simply because they can. But with a little effort, the plant can be a remarkable specimen.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Donkey’s Tail is perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Donkey’s Tail prefers average summer temps (65ºF to 70ºF/18ºC to 21ºC). In winter, can survive at 40ºF (5ºC), but prefers it slightly warmer.
Soil: A well-drained succulent potting soil, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed Donkey’s Tail with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a Donkey’s Tail, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Propagation
By seed or by cuttings. Individual leaves can be sprouted by placing them into a succulent or cactus potting soil, then covering the dish until they sprout. Large Donkey’s Tail plants can also be divided during repotting.
Grower’s Tips
Donkey’s Tails are pretty forgiving plants—if you forget to water them once or twice, they’ll probably be just fine. If you want your plant to really thrive, make sure to provide strong light, fertilizer during the growing season, and adequate moisture during the growing season. Too often, these are left to fend for themselves, simply because they can. But with a little effort, the plant can be a remarkable specimen.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
If you’re on a mission to find the perfect plant to grow in your home or garden, chances are you’ll find it in the succulent section of your favorite plant nursery. It would be hard to fine one. But it won’t be hard to find a succulent you’ll love, no matter where you live.
You’ll only have about 20,000 choices. This very large plant group includes varieties that range from hardy types that will survive winter freezes to tropical ones that work well outdoors in warm climates and can be overwintered in pots indoors in regions where the temperature begins to plummet in the fall. There are kinds that do well in full sun and others that prefer shade. In other words, there are succulents for all types of growing conditions.
What is a Succulent?
While such diversity in so large a plant group sounds great, you might be wondering exactly what to look for when you go to the nursery. That’s not as simple as it might sound. Botanists don’t agree on the definition of a succulent.
One thing they do agree on is that succulents are much more than cactus. Perhaps that’s why succulent growers are fond of this saying: All cactus are succulents but not all succulents are cactus. To keep it simple, perhaps the best way to think of succulents is to think of them as plants that store water in their tissues.
How to Decide What’s Hardy
With that thought in mind, perhaps the best way to decide which succulents to grow is to divide them into two main types:
Hardy, those that can be grown outdoors year round
Not hardy, those that can be grown outdoors in pots during the spring and summer and perhaps early fall but would need to be moved indoors during cold weather
Hardy comes with an asterisk of sorts — be sure to choose succulents for the landscape based on their hardiness for your USDA zone.
There are several ways to determine which ones will make it through the winter where you live. One way is to visit your local nursery or the plant section of a box store and ask the people working there. They can advise you about which of the succulents can go in the landscape and which should be grown in pots. They can also tell you the lowest temperatures the varieties can tolerate.
You’ll only have about 20,000 choices. This very large plant group includes varieties that range from hardy types that will survive winter freezes to tropical ones that work well outdoors in warm climates and can be overwintered in pots indoors in regions where the temperature begins to plummet in the fall. There are kinds that do well in full sun and others that prefer shade. In other words, there are succulents for all types of growing conditions.
What is a Succulent?
While such diversity in so large a plant group sounds great, you might be wondering exactly what to look for when you go to the nursery. That’s not as simple as it might sound. Botanists don’t agree on the definition of a succulent.
One thing they do agree on is that succulents are much more than cactus. Perhaps that’s why succulent growers are fond of this saying: All cactus are succulents but not all succulents are cactus. To keep it simple, perhaps the best way to think of succulents is to think of them as plants that store water in their tissues.
How to Decide What’s Hardy
With that thought in mind, perhaps the best way to decide which succulents to grow is to divide them into two main types:
Hardy, those that can be grown outdoors year round
Not hardy, those that can be grown outdoors in pots during the spring and summer and perhaps early fall but would need to be moved indoors during cold weather
Hardy comes with an asterisk of sorts — be sure to choose succulents for the landscape based on their hardiness for your USDA zone.
There are several ways to determine which ones will make it through the winter where you live. One way is to visit your local nursery or the plant section of a box store and ask the people working there. They can advise you about which of the succulents can go in the landscape and which should be grown in pots. They can also tell you the lowest temperatures the varieties can tolerate.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti and succulents are among the most unique type of indoor plant. Through millions of years of evolution, they have developed amazing methods of water storage and self protection. This evolution enables them to survive in some of the most desolate growing areas on earth. 
For indoor plants, cacti and succulents are the perfect choice. Typical hot, dry indoor conditions are often harmful to leafy foliage plants, but provide the ideal climate for many kinds of succulent plants. In addition, these plants are very tolerant of neglect, requiring little watering or other care throughout the greater part of the year. The results are often large, colorful blossoms, an added bonus whenever they appear.
Outdoors, cacti and succulents are a great addition in the landscape or on a patio during the summer. Although most cacti plants are not able to protect themselves from frost, a few will survive even the coldest of winter climates.
No matter what you desire in plants, cacti and succulents have the diversity and adaptability to suit almost any lifestyle. A small investment will reward you with enjoyment for many years to come.
Secrets of Growing Cacti and Succulents
A succulent is generally considered to be any plant which has the natural ability to store water in its body or roots. There are over 2500 varieties of cacti. Hundreds of these varieties are available commercially. True cacti are one type of succulent; they are members of the plant family Cactaceae. All cacti are native to the Western Hemisphere, and although many bear spines, this characteristic alone does not make them cacti. A true cactus is distinguished by the presence of areoles, small nubbin-like structures which occur over the body of the plant. Cactus spines, as well as roots and the flowers, always grow from these areoles, whereas spines on succulents other than cacti grow directly out of the body of the plant. Their unique adaptation also enables succulent plants to store water, quickly and in great volume.
Remember: Cacti and succulents, even though they are tough, adaptable plants, they do not “thrive on neglect”. Rather, they “exist” with neglect, but “thrive” on tender loving care. Due to their low humidity requirements many cacti do better in the dry air of homes with central heat than most other houseplants. They also do very well outside during the summer months in areas of the country with low humidity and warm night temperatures.
Lignt
Indoors give them as much bright light as you can or your sunniest window. They will stretch and get weak and skinny trying to get to more light if kept in a dark or shady location. Outdoors they can burn if given too much direct hot sun all day, so try to provide an area with filtered sun, or a place where they receive a few hours of direct sun and then bright light the rest of the day.
Watering
Most cacti have small root systems and are susceptible to damage from too much moisture. Allow plants to dry thoroughly between waterings. A good rule of thumb for watering is to skip one week for every 1 inch (2.5 cm) of pot size. Example: 2 inches (5 cm) pot – water once every 2 weeks, 3 inches (7.5 cm) pot – water once every 3 weeks, etc.
Another thing to remember is when you water, water well! Make sure that the water is running through all of the soil and flushing out the bottom of the pot. A well-watered pot will feel much heavier than one that didn’t get thoroughly saturated, and never let the plant sit in standing water for any length of time. If you have watered the pot well, you will know when it is time to water again by just sticking your finger about an inch (2.5 cm) down into the soil. If it’s damp, it’s fine. If it’s dry, then it’s time to water again — and water well!
Temperature
Regular household temperatures are great, but in the wintertime be sure to keep them away from freezing temperatures next to a window. They can handle 35°F to 40°F (2°C to 5°C) just fine and will be dormant (resting, not growing) at these temperatures. The same goes for outdoors; if it is going to go below 35°F (2°C), bring them inside to shelter. Freezing temperatures will turn most cacti and succulents into goo!
Soil
There are plenty of major garden centers around that carry commercially packaged cactus and succulent mix for sale. If you need to make your own, here’s a good all purpose mix: for every one part of a good potting soil or humus, add two parts of perlite or pumice and one part washed builder’s sand.
Fertilizer
Cacti and succulents are not heavy feeders but do benefit from light feeding during their growing period – usually the warmer months of the year (March through October). Any all purpose balanced liquid fertilizer is fine, something like a 20-20-20. Mix it to half or even a quarter of the recommended strength on the label and give it once a month. When in doubt it is always better to not fertilize than to over do it.
Little to no feeding during the dormant months, usually during the winter months, is necessary.
Transplanting
Your plant will be perfectly happy in the original pot for at least a year and doesn’t really need to be moved. However if it has been a year and it is getting too big for the pot, or you just want to put it in a special or favorite pot, here’s what to do. First be sure to choose a pot that is only a size larger than the original.
If your plants are in a 2.5 inches (6 cm) pot, the best next size up would be a 3 inches (8 cm) diameter, and be sure the pots have drain holes.
Gently tap the plant out of its pot and carefully loosen some of the soil around the outside of the root ball. Put some soil mix in the new pot and set the root ball on top of it. Fill in around it with new soil lightly firming it in making sure that the plant is sitting at the same soil level it was originally.
Do not water for a few days; this allows any roots that might have been broken a chance to heal over – then water and let it drain thoroughly.
Propagation
The main ways in which cacti and succulents are propagated are by cuttings, seeds, and offsets. To select the appropriate way to propagate your plant, observe how it grows. Most barrel types are grown from seed or offsets. Columnar or pad types are grown mainly from cuttings. Certain forms are grafted to another in order to grow.
Most seeds are easily germinated and many commercial varieties are self-fertile. Offsets (pups) can be stripped from the mother plants and replanted immediately. Cuttings should be left to dry, out of direct sun light for up to 2 weeks. This drying period allows the cut area to “heal”.
For indoor plants, cacti and succulents are the perfect choice. Typical hot, dry indoor conditions are often harmful to leafy foliage plants, but provide the ideal climate for many kinds of succulent plants. In addition, these plants are very tolerant of neglect, requiring little watering or other care throughout the greater part of the year. The results are often large, colorful blossoms, an added bonus whenever they appear.
Outdoors, cacti and succulents are a great addition in the landscape or on a patio during the summer. Although most cacti plants are not able to protect themselves from frost, a few will survive even the coldest of winter climates.
No matter what you desire in plants, cacti and succulents have the diversity and adaptability to suit almost any lifestyle. A small investment will reward you with enjoyment for many years to come.
Secrets of Growing Cacti and Succulents
A succulent is generally considered to be any plant which has the natural ability to store water in its body or roots. There are over 2500 varieties of cacti. Hundreds of these varieties are available commercially. True cacti are one type of succulent; they are members of the plant family Cactaceae. All cacti are native to the Western Hemisphere, and although many bear spines, this characteristic alone does not make them cacti. A true cactus is distinguished by the presence of areoles, small nubbin-like structures which occur over the body of the plant. Cactus spines, as well as roots and the flowers, always grow from these areoles, whereas spines on succulents other than cacti grow directly out of the body of the plant. Their unique adaptation also enables succulent plants to store water, quickly and in great volume.
Remember: Cacti and succulents, even though they are tough, adaptable plants, they do not “thrive on neglect”. Rather, they “exist” with neglect, but “thrive” on tender loving care. Due to their low humidity requirements many cacti do better in the dry air of homes with central heat than most other houseplants. They also do very well outside during the summer months in areas of the country with low humidity and warm night temperatures.
Lignt
Indoors give them as much bright light as you can or your sunniest window. They will stretch and get weak and skinny trying to get to more light if kept in a dark or shady location. Outdoors they can burn if given too much direct hot sun all day, so try to provide an area with filtered sun, or a place where they receive a few hours of direct sun and then bright light the rest of the day.
Watering
Most cacti have small root systems and are susceptible to damage from too much moisture. Allow plants to dry thoroughly between waterings. A good rule of thumb for watering is to skip one week for every 1 inch (2.5 cm) of pot size. Example: 2 inches (5 cm) pot – water once every 2 weeks, 3 inches (7.5 cm) pot – water once every 3 weeks, etc.
Another thing to remember is when you water, water well! Make sure that the water is running through all of the soil and flushing out the bottom of the pot. A well-watered pot will feel much heavier than one that didn’t get thoroughly saturated, and never let the plant sit in standing water for any length of time. If you have watered the pot well, you will know when it is time to water again by just sticking your finger about an inch (2.5 cm) down into the soil. If it’s damp, it’s fine. If it’s dry, then it’s time to water again — and water well!
Temperature
Regular household temperatures are great, but in the wintertime be sure to keep them away from freezing temperatures next to a window. They can handle 35°F to 40°F (2°C to 5°C) just fine and will be dormant (resting, not growing) at these temperatures. The same goes for outdoors; if it is going to go below 35°F (2°C), bring them inside to shelter. Freezing temperatures will turn most cacti and succulents into goo!
Soil
There are plenty of major garden centers around that carry commercially packaged cactus and succulent mix for sale. If you need to make your own, here’s a good all purpose mix: for every one part of a good potting soil or humus, add two parts of perlite or pumice and one part washed builder’s sand.
Fertilizer
Cacti and succulents are not heavy feeders but do benefit from light feeding during their growing period – usually the warmer months of the year (March through October). Any all purpose balanced liquid fertilizer is fine, something like a 20-20-20. Mix it to half or even a quarter of the recommended strength on the label and give it once a month. When in doubt it is always better to not fertilize than to over do it.
Little to no feeding during the dormant months, usually during the winter months, is necessary.
Transplanting
Your plant will be perfectly happy in the original pot for at least a year and doesn’t really need to be moved. However if it has been a year and it is getting too big for the pot, or you just want to put it in a special or favorite pot, here’s what to do. First be sure to choose a pot that is only a size larger than the original.
If your plants are in a 2.5 inches (6 cm) pot, the best next size up would be a 3 inches (8 cm) diameter, and be sure the pots have drain holes.
Gently tap the plant out of its pot and carefully loosen some of the soil around the outside of the root ball. Put some soil mix in the new pot and set the root ball on top of it. Fill in around it with new soil lightly firming it in making sure that the plant is sitting at the same soil level it was originally.
Do not water for a few days; this allows any roots that might have been broken a chance to heal over – then water and let it drain thoroughly.
Propagation
The main ways in which cacti and succulents are propagated are by cuttings, seeds, and offsets. To select the appropriate way to propagate your plant, observe how it grows. Most barrel types are grown from seed or offsets. Columnar or pad types are grown mainly from cuttings. Certain forms are grafted to another in order to grow.
Most seeds are easily germinated and many commercial varieties are self-fertile. Offsets (pups) can be stripped from the mother plants and replanted immediately. Cuttings should be left to dry, out of direct sun light for up to 2 weeks. This drying period allows the cut area to “heal”.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa), also known as Pussy Ears is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Panda Plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the decor.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) is a common houseplant that even the most novice of gardeners can grow successfully. Getting a Jade Plant to bloom requires mimicking its native growing conditions. Lack of water, cool nights and bright days encourage the plant to form buds and finally flowers. It’s a bit of a trick, but you can fool your plant into producing pretty little starry white to pink flowers in spring.
Jade Plants are primarily known for their thick, glossy, succulent leaf pads. These succulents reproduce by vegetative means but can also flower and produce seed. We often hear, “my jade plant won’t bloom,” and strive to provide information on what may cause a Jade Plant not flowering and how to promote blooms in reluctant plants.
Jade Plants grow for many years without blooming. Even in their native habitat, the plants need to be very mature before they form flowers. Among the many Jade Plant flowering requirements is an arid ambient environment. Interior conditions are often too humid for the plant to form buds.
Getting a Jade Plant to bloom will require you to remove it to a dry location, withhold water, and expose it to cooler nighttime temperatures. Of course, your plant should be an older species for blooming or you will still not find a single flower. Given the right setting and environment, a Jade Plant not flowering may simply be that it is not old enough to reproduce yet.
Getting a Jade Plant to Bloom
All plants need the same environment they would experience naturally to promote flowering and fruiting. Some require a dormancy period, some a photoperiod and others extreme environmental conditions.
Jade Plant flowering requirements are a combination of all three. The plant doesn’t exactly enter dormancy but it does require a rest period before buds form. As the days become shorter, reduce watering and do not fertilize.
Keep the plant in an area of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (12 degrees Celsius) during fall but protect it from any freezing. Blossoms should start to form around the shortest days of the year and bloom in late winter to early spring. These starry little flowers are produced in clusters at the tips of branches and are short lived.
Once the flowers fade and the stalk becomes brown, you can cut off the flowering stem. Begin to increase water and temperature as the spring progresses. In summer, move the plant outdoors gradually to an area with some protection from searing sun rays, but where it is bright for most of the day.
Water when the surface of the soil is dry. Jade plants like to be crowded, so they rarely need repotting to a larger container but they do need new soil every 3 years. Repot after the flowers have bloomed and at least a month before you move the plant outdoors for summer. Use a good cactus mixture for plants left indoors but add a bit of humus-rich soil to plants that are taken outside.
In spring to late summer, fertilize with a diluted balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Don’t expect annual blooms, however, as the plant needs time to store adequate energy for this infrequent floral spectacle.
Jade Plants are primarily known for their thick, glossy, succulent leaf pads. These succulents reproduce by vegetative means but can also flower and produce seed. We often hear, “my jade plant won’t bloom,” and strive to provide information on what may cause a Jade Plant not flowering and how to promote blooms in reluctant plants.
Jade Plants grow for many years without blooming. Even in their native habitat, the plants need to be very mature before they form flowers. Among the many Jade Plant flowering requirements is an arid ambient environment. Interior conditions are often too humid for the plant to form buds.
Getting a Jade Plant to bloom will require you to remove it to a dry location, withhold water, and expose it to cooler nighttime temperatures. Of course, your plant should be an older species for blooming or you will still not find a single flower. Given the right setting and environment, a Jade Plant not flowering may simply be that it is not old enough to reproduce yet.
Getting a Jade Plant to Bloom
All plants need the same environment they would experience naturally to promote flowering and fruiting. Some require a dormancy period, some a photoperiod and others extreme environmental conditions.
Jade Plant flowering requirements are a combination of all three. The plant doesn’t exactly enter dormancy but it does require a rest period before buds form. As the days become shorter, reduce watering and do not fertilize.
Keep the plant in an area of 60 degrees Fahrenheit (12 degrees Celsius) during fall but protect it from any freezing. Blossoms should start to form around the shortest days of the year and bloom in late winter to early spring. These starry little flowers are produced in clusters at the tips of branches and are short lived.
Once the flowers fade and the stalk becomes brown, you can cut off the flowering stem. Begin to increase water and temperature as the spring progresses. In summer, move the plant outdoors gradually to an area with some protection from searing sun rays, but where it is bright for most of the day.
Water when the surface of the soil is dry. Jade plants like to be crowded, so they rarely need repotting to a larger container but they do need new soil every 3 years. Repot after the flowers have bloomed and at least a month before you move the plant outdoors for summer. Use a good cactus mixture for plants left indoors but add a bit of humus-rich soil to plants that are taken outside.
In spring to late summer, fertilize with a diluted balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Don’t expect annual blooms, however, as the plant needs time to store adequate energy for this infrequent floral spectacle.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Crassula ovata is a succulent native to South Africa and is commonly called the Jade Plant or Money Plant. It has jade green, egg-shaped leaves and bears small pink or white flowers. The jade plant is a favorite indoor plant that can grow into a small tree or shrub up to 5 feet (1.5 m) tall, although it can be easily trained into bonsai form. It will grow outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10, but is better grown indoors in USDA zones below that where prolonged winter cold can kill it.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
Problems With Growth
Jade Plants grown in pots can become root bound and top heavy causing them to tip over easily. Repot in the spring every two to three years or when it becomes top heavy. If you repot to the same size pot, prune the roots and stems to develop a thick main trunk. Do not overwater until the plant is growing well in the new container.
Problems With Sun and Temperature
A Jade Plant will grow in partial shade, but it needs sun to produce blooms. Overexposure to direct sun or heat can scorch the leaves. Do not put a Jade Plant behind glass in full sun. Too much heat can cause it to drop its leaves and the stems may begin to rot. Do not let its foliage touch cold window panes in the winter and protect it from drafts.
Watering Problems
A Jade Plant will withstand dry periods and will develop root rot if you leave it in soggy soil. This is a particular problem for jades grown in pots. Water sparingly when it is actively growing in the spring and summer. Let the soil dry between watering. Do not water in the winter. Drought can cause stunted growth and leaves to develop spots and drop, eventually killing it.
Pests
Mealybugs that look like small white puffs of cotton commonly infect jade plants. Insecticidal soap may damage the plant; instead, wipe them off with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
Spreading Problems
Although Crassula ovata is not listed on California’s list of noxious weeds, it spreads easily from leaves and pieces of stems that break off and grow. The Jade Plant grows wild in warmer wetlands and coastal areas and in many canyons near urban areas of Southern California. If you live in an area warm enough to grow it outdoors, ensure that you can contain its potential to spread.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulent plants store water in their tissue. That, by definition, is what makes it a succulent plant. Succulents use the water they store in their tissue to help them survive long, dry periods. Since cacti and other succulents as a general rule grow in dry places, they take up water through their roots very quickly and efficiently. On the other hand, they do not have the ability to quickly get rid of excess water. While this all works out fine in the wild, when csucculents are grown in cultivation, people can supply more water than the succulents needs. This is actually a common situation and the plants in cultivation look plump and happy compared to their habitat counterparts.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Agave americana, commonly called the Century Plant, is a succulent desert plant native to Mexico. It can grow outdoors year-round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 to 10. The largest of the Agaves, mature plants range from 5 to 7 feet (1.5 to 2.1 m) tall with 8- to 12-foot (20 to 30 cm) spreads. Century Plant makes a dramatic accent plant with its blue or blue-gray leaves, black spines and showy, yellow-green flowers. Despite its renowned hardiness, Century Plant can still suffer from a few cultural, disease and pest problems.
Cultural Problems
Century Plant can tolerate various cultural conditions as long as it is planted in fast-draining soils. Poor-draining soils make the plant susceptible to the fungal pathogens that cause root rot. This Agave can survive down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-15 degrees Celsius), but the broad, fleshy leaves will suffer from freeze damage if the temperature drops below freezing for several hours. Freeze-damaged tissue turns black, dries out and looks unsightly. The damage can’t be repaired, but most Century Plants will recover. Prevent freeze damage by covering the plant with a light, cotton sheet when your area is expecting a freeze.
Diseases
Although Century Plant isn’t associated with any serious disease problems, root rot can be problematic in poor-draining or overly moist soils. Root rot causes wilting, stunted growth and discolored leaves. Unfortunately, this fungal infection cannot be treated once it occurs. Anthracnose is another occasional problem that occurs when fungal pathogens thrive in overly moist soil conditions. This disease causes lesions to form on the leaves, with red or orange spore masses developing inside the sores. Remove any anthracnose-infected plant tissue promptly to prevent the disease from spreading.
Pest Problems
For the most part, Century Plant doesn’t have serious pest problems, but there is one exception. Root rot typically goes hand-in-hand with agave snout weevil infestations. Adult females chew through to the base of the plant to lay their eggs in the infected plant tissue. The larvae hatch and burrow their way into the heart of the plant. Severely infected Century Plants look wrinkled or shriveled and emit a foul odor. The rotting plant tissue eventually collapses and the plant dies. Controlling Agave snout weevil is difficult, but spraying the base of the plant with a broad-spectrum insecticide in the spring often helps prevent infestations from occurring.
Recommendations
Avoid Century Plant problems by providing your plant with the best possible growing conditions. These succulents perform best when planted in fully sunny areas, although they can handle some light shade. Century Plant grows best in sandy or gritty soils with dry to medium moisture. These drought-tolerant plants only need occasional watering in dry summer weather to remain healthy. Give the plant plenty of room to grow and make sure it is planted away from foot traffic. The sharp spines can poke you and cause your skin to swell painfully.
Cultural Problems
Century Plant can tolerate various cultural conditions as long as it is planted in fast-draining soils. Poor-draining soils make the plant susceptible to the fungal pathogens that cause root rot. This Agave can survive down to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (-15 degrees Celsius), but the broad, fleshy leaves will suffer from freeze damage if the temperature drops below freezing for several hours. Freeze-damaged tissue turns black, dries out and looks unsightly. The damage can’t be repaired, but most Century Plants will recover. Prevent freeze damage by covering the plant with a light, cotton sheet when your area is expecting a freeze.
Diseases
Although Century Plant isn’t associated with any serious disease problems, root rot can be problematic in poor-draining or overly moist soils. Root rot causes wilting, stunted growth and discolored leaves. Unfortunately, this fungal infection cannot be treated once it occurs. Anthracnose is another occasional problem that occurs when fungal pathogens thrive in overly moist soil conditions. This disease causes lesions to form on the leaves, with red or orange spore masses developing inside the sores. Remove any anthracnose-infected plant tissue promptly to prevent the disease from spreading.
Pest Problems
For the most part, Century Plant doesn’t have serious pest problems, but there is one exception. Root rot typically goes hand-in-hand with agave snout weevil infestations. Adult females chew through to the base of the plant to lay their eggs in the infected plant tissue. The larvae hatch and burrow their way into the heart of the plant. Severely infected Century Plants look wrinkled or shriveled and emit a foul odor. The rotting plant tissue eventually collapses and the plant dies. Controlling Agave snout weevil is difficult, but spraying the base of the plant with a broad-spectrum insecticide in the spring often helps prevent infestations from occurring.
Recommendations
Avoid Century Plant problems by providing your plant with the best possible growing conditions. These succulents perform best when planted in fully sunny areas, although they can handle some light shade. Century Plant grows best in sandy or gritty soils with dry to medium moisture. These drought-tolerant plants only need occasional watering in dry summer weather to remain healthy. Give the plant plenty of room to grow and make sure it is planted away from foot traffic. The sharp spines can poke you and cause your skin to swell painfully.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Sycamore anthracnose is a fungal disease that can cause leaf drop, twig dieback, cankers and the sudden death of more than 90% of a tree’s new shoot growth. Although the disease is rarely fatal and trees will grow a second set of leaves, repeat infections will result in abnormal branching and will leave a tree stressed and more susceptible to other diseases and pests. American sycamore or buttonwood (Platanus occidentalis), London plane tree (P. x acerifolia) and Oriental plane tree (P. orientalis) may all be affected by sycamore anthracnose.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Sycamore anthracnose is most common during the cool wet weather of spring and is often mistaken for frost damage. As new leaves unfold, they crinkle and turn brown, wilt rapidly and fall. Dark and sunken dead areas form along the veins of older leaves eventually expanding to include the entire leaf. The tree may also develop cankers on twigs and older branches resulting in twig dieback and the girdling and death of the larger branches. Small black dots, the fruiting bodies of the fungus, may be visible. The clusters of dead twigs will result in abnormal branching such as witches’ brooms or as the twigs die, break and fall, the tree will appear ragged. Reportedly, London plane tree is less susceptible to cankers than the American sycamore.
Life Cycle
The sycamore anthracnose fungus, Apiognomonia veneta, overwinters in diseased leaves and in cankers on twigs and branches. Spores are produced in spring and spread by rain. If the mean daily temperatures are 50 – 55 degrees F., the spores will germinate and the resulting infections will cause the death of new buds, shoots and leaves. The disease will be slight or will not occur by late spring or midsummer when the mean daily temperatures are 60 degrees F. or greater and the tree will be able to produce a second set of leaves. The fungus may also infect twigs and buds in fall after leaf drop.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Be patient. The tree may appear to be dead but will probably recover and develop new leaves and shoots.
2. Practice good garden sanitation by raking up and disposing of fallen leaves and twigs.
3. Practice good cultural techniques to keep plants healthy and free of drought, nutritional or injury-induced stress. Water trees twice a month during dry winters.
4. Prune out dead branches when possible. Disinfect pruning shears in a 10% bleach solution between cuts to avoid spreading the disease.
5. Prune branches to improve air circulation reducing the length of time leaves are wet and thus susceptible to infection.
6. Treat with a preventive systemic fungicide. This treatment may require the services of a certified arborist.
7. Spray with a preventive fungicide such as lime-sulfur (Bordeaux mixture) or chlorothalonil (daconil) when leaves begin to emerge from buds. Reapply two or three more times at 7-10 day intervals. Fungicides are not effective after the leaves have been infected. Large trees may require the services of a certified arborist.
8. Plant resistant species or cultivars. Oriental plane tree (zones 7-9) and London plane tree cultivars, ‘Bloodgood’, ‘Columbia’ and ‘Liberty’ are less susceptible to the disease than the American sycamore.
Symptoms and Diagnosis
Sycamore anthracnose is most common during the cool wet weather of spring and is often mistaken for frost damage. As new leaves unfold, they crinkle and turn brown, wilt rapidly and fall. Dark and sunken dead areas form along the veins of older leaves eventually expanding to include the entire leaf. The tree may also develop cankers on twigs and older branches resulting in twig dieback and the girdling and death of the larger branches. Small black dots, the fruiting bodies of the fungus, may be visible. The clusters of dead twigs will result in abnormal branching such as witches’ brooms or as the twigs die, break and fall, the tree will appear ragged. Reportedly, London plane tree is less susceptible to cankers than the American sycamore.
Life Cycle
The sycamore anthracnose fungus, Apiognomonia veneta, overwinters in diseased leaves and in cankers on twigs and branches. Spores are produced in spring and spread by rain. If the mean daily temperatures are 50 – 55 degrees F., the spores will germinate and the resulting infections will cause the death of new buds, shoots and leaves. The disease will be slight or will not occur by late spring or midsummer when the mean daily temperatures are 60 degrees F. or greater and the tree will be able to produce a second set of leaves. The fungus may also infect twigs and buds in fall after leaf drop.
Integrated Pest Management Strategies
1. Be patient. The tree may appear to be dead but will probably recover and develop new leaves and shoots.
2. Practice good garden sanitation by raking up and disposing of fallen leaves and twigs.
3. Practice good cultural techniques to keep plants healthy and free of drought, nutritional or injury-induced stress. Water trees twice a month during dry winters.
4. Prune out dead branches when possible. Disinfect pruning shears in a 10% bleach solution between cuts to avoid spreading the disease.
5. Prune branches to improve air circulation reducing the length of time leaves are wet and thus susceptible to infection.
6. Treat with a preventive systemic fungicide. This treatment may require the services of a certified arborist.
7. Spray with a preventive fungicide such as lime-sulfur (Bordeaux mixture) or chlorothalonil (daconil) when leaves begin to emerge from buds. Reapply two or three more times at 7-10 day intervals. Fungicides are not effective after the leaves have been infected. Large trees may require the services of a certified arborist.
8. Plant resistant species or cultivars. Oriental plane tree (zones 7-9) and London plane tree cultivars, ‘Bloodgood’, ‘Columbia’ and ‘Liberty’ are less susceptible to the disease than the American sycamore.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月18日
Jungle Cacti are a group of cacti that grow in rain forests. Unlike their desert relatives, these plants do not resemble one another and many do not have spines. Jungle Cacti include those species in genera such as Acanthocereus, Disocactus, Epiphyllum, Hatiora, Hylocereus, Lepismium, Rhipsalis, Schlumbergera, Selenicereus, and perhaps a few others. Almost everyone has seen at least one representative from this group even if they were unaware that the plant was actually a cactus. The most common of these are the Holiday Cacti: Easter Cactus (Hatiora gaertneri), Thanksgiving Cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) and Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi). These plants are all true cacti despite their lack of big spines and inability to withstand the harsh conditions of the desert. Now when we associate “cactus” with one of these, it does not seem unusual that they would require different care when growing than the stereotypical image that comes to mind when we think about the family Cactaceae.
Soil
Most Jungle Cacti are either epiphytic or lithophytic meaning they grow in trees or grow on rocks respectively. This type of plant gets its nutrients from the air or from dead leaves and other debris that may have collected in crotches, cracks, or crevasses. It is important to note that there are no parasitic cacti. Those that grow in trees do so for support, but do not sap nutrients from their host. For best results we’ll want our soil to mimic these natural conditions.
Some good ingredients for creating a suitable potting mixture for Jungle Cacti include: orchid bark, pearlite, potting soil, peat, coir, pumice, and oak leaf mold. The most important aspect of the mixture is good drainage. The pearlite helps create this by keeping the soil loose and “airy” and so does the orchid bark. Additionally the orchid bark tends to hold more moisture than pearlite or gravel. Pumice can be substituted for the pearlite. Keep in mind that the orchid bark will eventually break down into soil. This will create a very rich soil that may not be as effective in keeping the roots healthy. Repot your Jungle Cacti every 2 or three years with a fresh mix. The best time to do this is shortly after your plant has finished blooming. This is when it will be ready to start growing again. You might also add some fertilizer to the new mix.
Water
Well drained soil is critical for keeping the water from rotting the roots off the plant. With the proper soil, however, watering is really quite simple. The easiest way to gauge whether or not it’s time to water is to stick your finger in the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil. If the soil is dry, go ahead and water. If it’s not, wait! Don’t let your Jungle Cactus go too long without water. If the stem segments are shriveled and the soil is dry, it is probably in need of water. Be careful! If the plant is over watered, the stems will also look shriveled, but the soil will be damp. If this is the case, do not give it more water. An over-watered plant will start to turn yellowish, then get more and more mushy and dark reddish-brown like a rotten apple. This is because the cells took in so much water they broke and are now dead and rotting. This usually happens from the ends first. This will continue even after you stop watering too much, but often you will have enough plant left to start over.
Light
Jungle Cacti can survive in a wide range of light conditions. However, we’ll assume the goal is not to have plants simply surviving, but thriving. For the plants to thrive the amount and intensity of light are key ingredients.
There are three lighting situations that are not as ideal, but often times necessary due to space constraints. These are morning shade/full afternoon sun, full shade, and full sun. Let’s explore these conditions further. It may seem that shade in the morning and full-sun in the afternoon should produce the same results as full morning sun/afternoon shade, but it doesn’t. This is because the temperature is cooler in the morning than the afternoon and for many plants the afternoon sun is a little too intense and plants will often take on a sickly-yellow appearance and may develop spots. In full-sun these symptoms will be even more apparent. As with most things in nature there are exceptions and some plants actually prefer full-sun and thrive in it. In full shade the plants will don a dark-green healthy appearance, but the stems will be stretched out long and thin in an attempt to reach more light.
Not only is light essential for healthy stems, it also triggers blooming in many species. In ideal conditions a particular plant may exhibit fantastic growth with many show-quality stems, but they won’t bloom. In this situation exposing the plant to longer and more intense sunlight will trigger it to bloom. Don’t forget that plants can get sunburn just like people do. If you have a plant that has been mostly shaded, don’t just stick it out in direct sunlight or you will certainly end up with a badly scared cactus. This is even true for desert cacti that occur naturally in extremely hot, intense sunlight.
Soil
Most Jungle Cacti are either epiphytic or lithophytic meaning they grow in trees or grow on rocks respectively. This type of plant gets its nutrients from the air or from dead leaves and other debris that may have collected in crotches, cracks, or crevasses. It is important to note that there are no parasitic cacti. Those that grow in trees do so for support, but do not sap nutrients from their host. For best results we’ll want our soil to mimic these natural conditions.
Some good ingredients for creating a suitable potting mixture for Jungle Cacti include: orchid bark, pearlite, potting soil, peat, coir, pumice, and oak leaf mold. The most important aspect of the mixture is good drainage. The pearlite helps create this by keeping the soil loose and “airy” and so does the orchid bark. Additionally the orchid bark tends to hold more moisture than pearlite or gravel. Pumice can be substituted for the pearlite. Keep in mind that the orchid bark will eventually break down into soil. This will create a very rich soil that may not be as effective in keeping the roots healthy. Repot your Jungle Cacti every 2 or three years with a fresh mix. The best time to do this is shortly after your plant has finished blooming. This is when it will be ready to start growing again. You might also add some fertilizer to the new mix.
Water
Well drained soil is critical for keeping the water from rotting the roots off the plant. With the proper soil, however, watering is really quite simple. The easiest way to gauge whether or not it’s time to water is to stick your finger in the top 0.5 inch (1.2 cm) of soil. If the soil is dry, go ahead and water. If it’s not, wait! Don’t let your Jungle Cactus go too long without water. If the stem segments are shriveled and the soil is dry, it is probably in need of water. Be careful! If the plant is over watered, the stems will also look shriveled, but the soil will be damp. If this is the case, do not give it more water. An over-watered plant will start to turn yellowish, then get more and more mushy and dark reddish-brown like a rotten apple. This is because the cells took in so much water they broke and are now dead and rotting. This usually happens from the ends first. This will continue even after you stop watering too much, but often you will have enough plant left to start over.
Light
Jungle Cacti can survive in a wide range of light conditions. However, we’ll assume the goal is not to have plants simply surviving, but thriving. For the plants to thrive the amount and intensity of light are key ingredients.
There are three lighting situations that are not as ideal, but often times necessary due to space constraints. These are morning shade/full afternoon sun, full shade, and full sun. Let’s explore these conditions further. It may seem that shade in the morning and full-sun in the afternoon should produce the same results as full morning sun/afternoon shade, but it doesn’t. This is because the temperature is cooler in the morning than the afternoon and for many plants the afternoon sun is a little too intense and plants will often take on a sickly-yellow appearance and may develop spots. In full-sun these symptoms will be even more apparent. As with most things in nature there are exceptions and some plants actually prefer full-sun and thrive in it. In full shade the plants will don a dark-green healthy appearance, but the stems will be stretched out long and thin in an attempt to reach more light.
Not only is light essential for healthy stems, it also triggers blooming in many species. In ideal conditions a particular plant may exhibit fantastic growth with many show-quality stems, but they won’t bloom. In this situation exposing the plant to longer and more intense sunlight will trigger it to bloom. Don’t forget that plants can get sunburn just like people do. If you have a plant that has been mostly shaded, don’t just stick it out in direct sunlight or you will certainly end up with a badly scared cactus. This is even true for desert cacti that occur naturally in extremely hot, intense sunlight.
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