文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cacti growing in the wild with paddles and branches tend to drop them to the ground where they root in the rainy season. This is a form of vegetative self-propagation. Even a smashed cactus will attempt to grow roots from the pieces that make contact with the ground. Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia compressa), which grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, forms colonies with its paddle-like branches through self-propagation. It is possible to regrow a cactus from an arm if taken from a healthy cactus.
Timing
While you can root a cactus branch any time of year, rooting while the cactus is actively growing gives the best chance of success. Try rooting the arm in late spring or summer while nighttime temperatures stay above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). When temperatures fall below 60 F (16 C), the development of roots slows and the arm dries out before rooting. Branches taken from dormant cacti have the worst chance of rooting.
Drying
Once the arm is cut or falls off the cactus, let it dry at room temperature in a shady area for two to seven days. The cut end needs to callus over. This hardening of the wound prevents rotting. It also stops plant diseases from entering through the wound and infecting the cactus arm.
Rooting Mixture
The soil for rooting cactus needs to drain quickly, but hold some moisture near the forming roots. The most common mixture is half organic and half inorganic materials. Peat moss holds moisture and provides slow-release nutrients for the developing roots. Use coarse-textured sand, which does not compact down like fine-textured sand. The sand improves the drainage properties of the rooting mixture.
Potting
Handle the cactus piece with care so it does not stab your fingers. Use heave-duty gloves, tongs or a folded newspaper wrapped around the prickly piece when moving it. Avoid touching the piece with your hands if it is spiny. Press the cut end of the cactus into the soil mixture. If the branch is large, bury the bottom part of the cactus until the soil supports the branch.
Rooting
Most cacti will form roots in four to six weeks during the growing season. Keep the soil damp by misting the soil, but do not over-water the rooting branch. Water deeply, but do not let the container sit in water, which will lead to rot. Once the roots are established, then the plant pot will lift up when the arm is gently picked up. Let the soil dry between watering sessions once the roots develop.
Timing
While you can root a cactus branch any time of year, rooting while the cactus is actively growing gives the best chance of success. Try rooting the arm in late spring or summer while nighttime temperatures stay above 60 degrees Fahrenheit (16 degrees Celsius). When temperatures fall below 60 F (16 C), the development of roots slows and the arm dries out before rooting. Branches taken from dormant cacti have the worst chance of rooting.
Drying
Once the arm is cut or falls off the cactus, let it dry at room temperature in a shady area for two to seven days. The cut end needs to callus over. This hardening of the wound prevents rotting. It also stops plant diseases from entering through the wound and infecting the cactus arm.
Rooting Mixture
The soil for rooting cactus needs to drain quickly, but hold some moisture near the forming roots. The most common mixture is half organic and half inorganic materials. Peat moss holds moisture and provides slow-release nutrients for the developing roots. Use coarse-textured sand, which does not compact down like fine-textured sand. The sand improves the drainage properties of the rooting mixture.
Potting
Handle the cactus piece with care so it does not stab your fingers. Use heave-duty gloves, tongs or a folded newspaper wrapped around the prickly piece when moving it. Avoid touching the piece with your hands if it is spiny. Press the cut end of the cactus into the soil mixture. If the branch is large, bury the bottom part of the cactus until the soil supports the branch.
Rooting
Most cacti will form roots in four to six weeks during the growing season. Keep the soil damp by misting the soil, but do not over-water the rooting branch. Water deeply, but do not let the container sit in water, which will lead to rot. Once the roots are established, then the plant pot will lift up when the arm is gently picked up. Let the soil dry between watering sessions once the roots develop.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulent plants are as lovely as they are easy to grow. The best part is that its leaves and stem provide an endless number of identical plants through simple propagation. Growing succulents from clippings is both fun and rewarding. They grow quickly and with minimal effort, and the resulting plants make great gifts and lively home decor. A well-clipped leaf or stem is practically all a gardener needs to grow an entirely new succulent with success.
Propagating from a Leaf Clipping
It is easy to remove a succulent leaf from a healthy plant without disrupting its appearance or hindering its growth. Also, when a succulent has grown “leggy,” with a long stem that some growers dislike, they can separate each of the plant’s many leaves and grow them into new plants.
Prepare the Soil
Prepare a new pot or tray of cactus or succulent soil. Cactus or succulent soil must provide good drainage. A mixture of equal parts cactus potting soil and perlite works well. It need not be more than a couple inches deep for the beginning stage. An aluminum baking pan works well for propagating several new plants at once.
Clip or Pluck a Leaf
Gardeners can pluck succulent leaves from an existing plant by hand or cut them with a metal tool. A sharp knife, razor blade, or pruning shears work well. It is important to sterilize a metal tool first to prevent infection in the plant or leaf. Cut as close to the stem as possible, and take care not to bruise the leaf or stem. To pluck by hand, rock the leaf gently from side to side until it comes loose. Some leaves loosen very easily, which makes hand-plucking a popular method.
Let the Leaves Dry
Lay the fresh leaf cuttings down flat on the surface of the soil mix, and place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Let the leaves dry out for a few days before adding any water. This is an important step because watering them immediately can easily cause them to rot. It also allows time for the “wound” from cutting to callous over, preventing disease from sinking in.
Let Roots Develop
Once they have sufficiently dried and calloused, some people start moistening the soil regularly, while others give the leaves more time to grow on their own. In humid environments, the leaves may not require any water at all. In a dry climate or a house with dry air conditioning, it is a good idea to water sparingly but consistently. An effective method is to add a sprinkle of water to the pot whenever the soil has completely dried out. After anywhere from a few weeks to a month, tiny roots, and possibly the leaves of a new baby plant, emerge from the cut end of the leaves.
Help the Roots Find the Soil
Sometimes the roots grow down into the soil on their own, and sometimes they grow into the air and need a little help. In the latter situation, form a small divot in the soil, and gently cover the roots with a tiny layer of soil. Use a spray bottle to add a light spritz of water about once a week from this point.
Separate and Enjoy
Within about a month or so, gardeners should see new growth on the planted cutting. At this point, it is safe to place each in its own pot or mix them into an arrangement for a garden setting. Once a succulent reaches maturity, it only needs watering once every few weeks.
Propagating from a Stem
When a succulent plant gets leggy from lack of light, an easy method for salvaging the plant is to “behead” it and propagate new plants both from the head and the stem. This process is identical to propagating from leaf cuttings.
Cut the rosette off the top with a sterile instrument, and let the cutting dry and callous. Water sparingly until roots emerge, and then simply let nature take its course. The remaining stem should grow new plantlets on its own. Growers can then cut and propagate these as well.
Propagating from a Leaf Clipping
It is easy to remove a succulent leaf from a healthy plant without disrupting its appearance or hindering its growth. Also, when a succulent has grown “leggy,” with a long stem that some growers dislike, they can separate each of the plant’s many leaves and grow them into new plants.
Prepare the Soil
Prepare a new pot or tray of cactus or succulent soil. Cactus or succulent soil must provide good drainage. A mixture of equal parts cactus potting soil and perlite works well. It need not be more than a couple inches deep for the beginning stage. An aluminum baking pan works well for propagating several new plants at once.
Clip or Pluck a Leaf
Gardeners can pluck succulent leaves from an existing plant by hand or cut them with a metal tool. A sharp knife, razor blade, or pruning shears work well. It is important to sterilize a metal tool first to prevent infection in the plant or leaf. Cut as close to the stem as possible, and take care not to bruise the leaf or stem. To pluck by hand, rock the leaf gently from side to side until it comes loose. Some leaves loosen very easily, which makes hand-plucking a popular method.
Let the Leaves Dry
Lay the fresh leaf cuttings down flat on the surface of the soil mix, and place the container in bright, indirect sunlight. Let the leaves dry out for a few days before adding any water. This is an important step because watering them immediately can easily cause them to rot. It also allows time for the “wound” from cutting to callous over, preventing disease from sinking in.
Let Roots Develop
Once they have sufficiently dried and calloused, some people start moistening the soil regularly, while others give the leaves more time to grow on their own. In humid environments, the leaves may not require any water at all. In a dry climate or a house with dry air conditioning, it is a good idea to water sparingly but consistently. An effective method is to add a sprinkle of water to the pot whenever the soil has completely dried out. After anywhere from a few weeks to a month, tiny roots, and possibly the leaves of a new baby plant, emerge from the cut end of the leaves.
Help the Roots Find the Soil
Sometimes the roots grow down into the soil on their own, and sometimes they grow into the air and need a little help. In the latter situation, form a small divot in the soil, and gently cover the roots with a tiny layer of soil. Use a spray bottle to add a light spritz of water about once a week from this point.
Separate and Enjoy
Within about a month or so, gardeners should see new growth on the planted cutting. At this point, it is safe to place each in its own pot or mix them into an arrangement for a garden setting. Once a succulent reaches maturity, it only needs watering once every few weeks.
Propagating from a Stem
When a succulent plant gets leggy from lack of light, an easy method for salvaging the plant is to “behead” it and propagate new plants both from the head and the stem. This process is identical to propagating from leaf cuttings.
Cut the rosette off the top with a sterile instrument, and let the cutting dry and callous. Water sparingly until roots emerge, and then simply let nature take its course. The remaining stem should grow new plantlets on its own. Growers can then cut and propagate these as well.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Succulents are plants that survive long periods of drought by storing water in leaves, stems or roots. Their stems or roots become thick and fleshy when retaining water. Most succulents prefer dry conditions and grow well in containers. Succulents come in a variety of shapes and colors and propagate easily through leaf cuttings. Container-grown succulents require little maintenance while adding color and texture to a deck, porch or room.
1. Collect a succulent leaf cutting in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a healthy plant with no signs of damage or disease from which to take the cutting. Select a healthy leaf without blemish. Remove the leaf from the plant, breaking it or cutting it off with a knife at the point where the leaf connects with the stem. Place the leaf on a piece of paper, and set it in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room for one to two days to allow it to dry and form callus tissue over the cut end.
2. Choose a container for the leaf cutting. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Consider containers in colors and shapes that accentuate the chosen variety of succulent and the space it will be growing in.
3. Mix one part potting soil, two parts vermiculite and two parts perlite together to create a well-draining growing medium. Fill the container with the mixture, tamping it down firmly. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the soil surface and the top of the container. Water the soil in the container with a watering can two to three times to ensure it is evenly moist.
4. Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone. Push the cut end of the leaf down into the soil in the container until one-third to one-half of the leaf is buried. Tamp the soil down around the bottom of the leaf to stabilize it.
5. Place the container in an area with a constant temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose an area with bright indirect sunlight. Water the leaf cutting only when the top one-fourth layer of soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting once per day with a spray bottle to increase the humidity level. Watch for new growth to appear four to six weeks after planting, signaling that the plant has established roots.
1. Collect a succulent leaf cutting in the spring or summer when the plant is actively growing. Choose a healthy plant with no signs of damage or disease from which to take the cutting. Select a healthy leaf without blemish. Remove the leaf from the plant, breaking it or cutting it off with a knife at the point where the leaf connects with the stem. Place the leaf on a piece of paper, and set it in a dark, dry, well-ventilated room for one to two days to allow it to dry and form callus tissue over the cut end.
2. Choose a container for the leaf cutting. Select a container that has drainage holes in the bottom and is at least 4 inches (10 cm) deep. Consider containers in colors and shapes that accentuate the chosen variety of succulent and the space it will be growing in.
3. Mix one part potting soil, two parts vermiculite and two parts perlite together to create a well-draining growing medium. Fill the container with the mixture, tamping it down firmly. Leave a 1-inch (2.5 cm) space between the soil surface and the top of the container. Water the soil in the container with a watering can two to three times to ensure it is evenly moist.
4. Dip the cut end of the leaf in rooting hormone. Push the cut end of the leaf down into the soil in the container until one-third to one-half of the leaf is buried. Tamp the soil down around the bottom of the leaf to stabilize it.
5. Place the container in an area with a constant temperature of 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 degrees Celsius) or warmer. Choose an area with bright indirect sunlight. Water the leaf cutting only when the top one-fourth layer of soil becomes dry. Mist the cutting once per day with a spray bottle to increase the humidity level. Watch for new growth to appear four to six weeks after planting, signaling that the plant has established roots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
One of the amazing things about succulents is how easy they are to grow. From one plant you can easily get multiple plants, making them an investment worth indulging in! Regrowing you own succulents can be quick and easy, and you don’t even need the greenest of thumbs. Take a look below at how to regrow succulents in a few easy steps, so you can enjoy multiple pots of these gorgeous plants.
How to Cut
First, let’s talk about harvesting the succulent you want to grow your plant from. You want to take a leaf that looks healthy, green, and full. Snip it as close to the base of the plant as possible. If the plant has been pulled from the soil, go ahead and keep the roots intact. Use clean scissors that are sharp and make a clean cut.
How to Plant
Fill your pot with a quality and nutrient rich soil. You want it to be soil that is well aerated and loose. This gives roots the room they need to grow. Place the ends of the cutting directly into the soil about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) deep. Pack the soil in around the stem. You can place several stems per 8-10 inch (20-25 cm) pot. Just keep each cutting 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) from each other so they have room to grow and spread.
How to Care
You will now start caring for your cuttings so they begin to grow into a full plant. Water once a week with a spray bottle or mister to avoid over feeding. Keep your soil damp but not saturated. You can also begin using a slow release fertilizer (preferably liquid) to give the plants the nutrients they need to get a strong start. Place the pot in warm area with ample sun.
Soon, your succulents will begin to grow and you will have full sized plants. As those plants grow, feel free to take cuttings from them and start the growing process all over again. This is a great way to keep providing yourself with new plants without great cost.
How to Cut
First, let’s talk about harvesting the succulent you want to grow your plant from. You want to take a leaf that looks healthy, green, and full. Snip it as close to the base of the plant as possible. If the plant has been pulled from the soil, go ahead and keep the roots intact. Use clean scissors that are sharp and make a clean cut.
How to Plant
Fill your pot with a quality and nutrient rich soil. You want it to be soil that is well aerated and loose. This gives roots the room they need to grow. Place the ends of the cutting directly into the soil about 0.5 inch (1.3 cm) deep. Pack the soil in around the stem. You can place several stems per 8-10 inch (20-25 cm) pot. Just keep each cutting 3-4 inches (7.5-10 cm) from each other so they have room to grow and spread.
How to Care
You will now start caring for your cuttings so they begin to grow into a full plant. Water once a week with a spray bottle or mister to avoid over feeding. Keep your soil damp but not saturated. You can also begin using a slow release fertilizer (preferably liquid) to give the plants the nutrients they need to get a strong start. Place the pot in warm area with ample sun.
Soon, your succulents will begin to grow and you will have full sized plants. As those plants grow, feel free to take cuttings from them and start the growing process all over again. This is a great way to keep providing yourself with new plants without great cost.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Kalanchoe plants are thick leaved succulents that are often seen in florist shops or garden centers. Most end up as potted plants but areas that can mimic their native land of Madagascar can grow them outdoors. They sense the shorter days of winter and provide your garden with clustered red, yellow, orange, pink, purple, white and variant of these blooms in both winter and spring. Although these succulents can be propagated by seed in both indoor containers and outdoor gardens, growing new Kalanchoe plants from leaves is much simpler and less time-consuming. The ability of a new Kalanchoe to grow from a leaf allows the plant to reproduce successfully without developing energy-consuming seed pods, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11.
Cutting Selection
Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.
Plantlet Alternative
Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.
Growing Environment
Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.
Watering Considerations
Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
Cutting Selection
Choosing the best cutting from your Kalanchoe in the late spring or early summer enables you to have a better chance at a successful new plant. As you evaluate your Kalanchoe, select a 2 inches (5 cm) long stem that has at least two leaves attached to it. It is good practice to avoid any flowering stems, so that the cutting concentrates on growth rather than reproduction. After removing the stem, you need to place this cutting in a dry area, such as on a gardening bench. The cut end needs to callus, or scar, before you attempt to plant it in a growing medium.
Plantlet Alternative
Instead of removing a stem-and-leaf combination from the Kalanchoe, you have the option of cutting a plantlet from one of the leaves. These succulents are known for their growths, or plantlets, that grow directly off the mother plant’s leaf edges. These plantlets are miniature leaf shapes that grow side by side along the leaf margin, resembling a decorative border. In fact, allowing these plantlets to remain on the leaf causes the Kalanchoe to appear misshapen and steals precious energy away from flowering activity. You simply cut a plantlet off the leaf at its connection point and allow it to callus before planting it in a pot. The mother leaf is not harmed from the removal process, because the plantlet grows on a small base. A new Kalanchoe plant flourishes from the callused plantlet alone, with proper care.
Growing Environment
Preferring warm climates, Kalanchoe leaf cultivation must have a desert-type soil for the best propagation results. A simple starter soil consists of perlite and peat moss in an equal ratio. This mainly sandy soil structure, along with nutrient-rich peat, allows the leaf to have a lot of air pockets and well-drained moisture for optimum growth. For one leaf or combination cutting, a 4-inch (10 cm) pot is sufficient to support the growing Kalanchoe in the spring or summer. The callused end simply rests just under the soil surface so that the remaining cutting does not rot from moisture exposure. Adding bottom heat from a heating pad helps the Kalanchoe grow vigorously from a small cutting. You may plant the cutting outdoors or pot it in a separate container approximately 2 to 3 weeks after you start the cutting in starter soil.
Watering Considerations
Kalanchoe leaf cuttings prefer dry soil conditions between irrigation sessions so that rot does not set in. In fact, a simple misting from a water bottle is sufficient for brand-new cuttings. After the leaf establishes itself, irrigation through microtubes and emitters is good practice to accurately control the watering. Narrow tubes with water emitter components allow water to seep into the soil rather than saturating the leaves from above with standard sprinkler systems. Once your cutting has grown a strong root system, the Kalanchoe withstands drought well and does not require as much water as a mature plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
A Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) can be a joy for years and years in your home, but after a while it will need repotting to allow the plant to continue to grow roots to support the ever larger branches and leaves. If left untended, a large Jade Plant is likely to tip over from becoming top heavy. To repot large Jade Plants be sure to have all of your supplies ready in early spring as the Jade Plant starts to show new growth.
Step 1: Spread out a layer of newspaper on the floor to catch dropped soil. If you can’t move your Jade Plant to an open area in your home, then move items around your plant out of the way so you have plenty of room to work around the plant.
Step 2: Place a large pot over the center of the newspaper. The new pot should be only 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) larger in diameter than the existing pot.
Step 3: Fill the bottom of the pot an inch (2.5 cm) deep with gravel to help aid in drainage. If you are worried about your plant tipping over, place a brick on top of the gravel to add more weight to the pot.
Step 4: Pour in succulent soil over the gravel and brick, if using one, to fill the bottom third of the pot. Carefully hold the base of the Jade Plant and lift it out of the pot it is in and place it in the center of the new larger pot.
Step 5: Make sure the top surface of the Jade Plant’s root ball is just slightly below the rim of the new pot. Lift the plant, if needed, to add or remove soil. With the Jade Plant positioned in the pot, fill in the surrounding areas with fresh soil until the pot is filled.
Step 6: Position the new pot in a sunny area and water the Jade Plant as you normally would for its weekly watering. The Jade Plant should not need to be repotted again for a number of years.
Step 1: Spread out a layer of newspaper on the floor to catch dropped soil. If you can’t move your Jade Plant to an open area in your home, then move items around your plant out of the way so you have plenty of room to work around the plant.
Step 2: Place a large pot over the center of the newspaper. The new pot should be only 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) larger in diameter than the existing pot.
Step 3: Fill the bottom of the pot an inch (2.5 cm) deep with gravel to help aid in drainage. If you are worried about your plant tipping over, place a brick on top of the gravel to add more weight to the pot.
Step 4: Pour in succulent soil over the gravel and brick, if using one, to fill the bottom third of the pot. Carefully hold the base of the Jade Plant and lift it out of the pot it is in and place it in the center of the new larger pot.
Step 5: Make sure the top surface of the Jade Plant’s root ball is just slightly below the rim of the new pot. Lift the plant, if needed, to add or remove soil. With the Jade Plant positioned in the pot, fill in the surrounding areas with fresh soil until the pot is filled.
Step 6: Position the new pot in a sunny area and water the Jade Plant as you normally would for its weekly watering. The Jade Plant should not need to be repotted again for a number of years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents grow thick fleshy leaves and stems that store moisture and nutrients. This ability allows the plants to thrive in dry conditions. Potted succulents often require less watering and fertilizer than other houseplant varieties, but the irrigation they do require flushes nutrients out of the soil, so they need periodic feeding. Too much fertilizer, especially high-nitrogen blends, increase leaf and root rot problems. It’s vital to use the right blend and avoid overfeeding to keep the succulents healthy.
Dissolve a low-balanced soluble fertilizer, such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 formula, in 1 gallon (3.8 l) of water, Use half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the package for most succulents. For example, use ½ tablespoon 10-10-10 fertilizer if the label recommends using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Dilute to one-quarter strength for tropical succulents that require more frequent watering, such as a Christmas Cactus.
Water succulents with the half-strength solution until the excess moisture just begins to drain from the pot bottom. A gallon ((3.8 l)) of fertilizer solution may be enough to feed several plants, depending on size. Apply the fertilizer in spring as new growth begins and again in late summer or early fall. Do not fertilize when the succulents are semidormant in winter.
Irrigate tropical succulents weekly with the quarter-strength solution during the plant’s active growing season. Some tropical varieties actively grow in summer, while others are winter plants. Stop the fertilizer applications when plant growth naturally slows.
Apply fertilizers when the soil in the top inch of the pot has dried completely. Postpone a weekly application if the soil is still moist, so the soil can dry.
Tip
You can substitute the quarter-strength fertilizer for most succulents if the soil is drying rapidly in the pot and necessitating more frequent watering. Frequent irrigation flushes the nutrients from the pot before the plant can access them.
Outdoor succulents usually don’t require fertilizer because they can access the nutrient store in the soil. If they do need feeding, apply half the recommended amount of a balanced slow-release fertilizer in spring.
Dissolve a low-balanced soluble fertilizer, such as an 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 formula, in 1 gallon (3.8 l) of water, Use half the amount of fertilizer recommended on the package for most succulents. For example, use ½ tablespoon 10-10-10 fertilizer if the label recommends using 1 tablespoon per gallon of water. Dilute to one-quarter strength for tropical succulents that require more frequent watering, such as a Christmas Cactus.
Water succulents with the half-strength solution until the excess moisture just begins to drain from the pot bottom. A gallon ((3.8 l)) of fertilizer solution may be enough to feed several plants, depending on size. Apply the fertilizer in spring as new growth begins and again in late summer or early fall. Do not fertilize when the succulents are semidormant in winter.
Irrigate tropical succulents weekly with the quarter-strength solution during the plant’s active growing season. Some tropical varieties actively grow in summer, while others are winter plants. Stop the fertilizer applications when plant growth naturally slows.
Apply fertilizers when the soil in the top inch of the pot has dried completely. Postpone a weekly application if the soil is still moist, so the soil can dry.
Tip
You can substitute the quarter-strength fertilizer for most succulents if the soil is drying rapidly in the pot and necessitating more frequent watering. Frequent irrigation flushes the nutrients from the pot before the plant can access them.
Outdoor succulents usually don’t require fertilizer because they can access the nutrient store in the soil. If they do need feeding, apply half the recommended amount of a balanced slow-release fertilizer in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulent plants store water in their tissue. That, by definition, is what makes it a succulent plant. Succulents use the water they store in their tissue to help them survive long, dry periods. Since cacti and other succulents as a general rule grow in dry places, they take up water through their roots very quickly and efficiently. On the other hand, they do not have the ability to quickly get rid of excess water. While this all works out fine in the wild, when csucculents are grown in cultivation, people can supply more water than the succulents needs. This is actually a common situation and the plants in cultivation look plump and happy compared to their habitat counterparts.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Crassula ovata, commonly known as Jade Plant or Money Plant, is probably the most widely grown succulent houseplant in the world. It is popular because it is very easy to grow and because it is said to bring good fortune and money. Jade Plants do make excellent houseplants, but can also grow up to 10 feet (3 m) high if planted outdoors and can even be pruned into an exotic hedge. Jade Plants have few problems in cultivation, but yellowing leaves are often an early sign that something is wrong.
Overwatering
As succulents, Jade Plants only need to be watered when the soil in their pot has dried out completely. If you keep your Jade Plant on a windowsill, watering it once every 2 weeks should be enough. Do not keep the pot standing in a saucer that catches excess water as this will waterlog the soil and quickly rot a Jade Plant’s roots, killing the whole plant. If the leaves on your Jade Plant are plump but turning yellow, reduce the amount and frequency of water. If you repot a Jade Plant, transfer it to a pot that is only slightly larger, as excess soil will act like a sponge and retain water around the roots.
Underwatering
A completely neglected and underwatered Jade Plant will eventually lose leaves in a bid to reduce the amount of water it transpires. An underwatered Jade Plant will have wrinkled, leathery leaves that are not shiny, while a healthy plant has glossy, smooth leaves. A thorough watering will soon rehydrate the plant and promote new leaf growth.
Overfertilizing
Succulent plants need very little fertilizer; too much can burn a Jade Plant’s roots and cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Use standard houseplant fertilizer at one quarter strength once a month or use a specialized succulent fertilizer.
Underfertilizing
WhileJade Plants will tolerate a lot of neglect, a potted plant will eventually be unable to get any more nutrition from its soil and will start to suffer. If all the leaves on your Jade Plant are very pale green or yellow, it might need to be fertilized with a special succulent fertilizer enriched with micronutrients or with bonemeal.
Natural Causes
Jade Plants that are not pruned will shed old leaves every year before their dormant winter phase. These leaves, generally large, older ones at the base of the stems, will first turn yellow and then drop off. This is a natural process and not a sign that there is a problem with your plant.
Other Causes
Do not use leaf shine products on your Jade Plant as they block up the pores on the leaves and suffocate the plant, causing the leaves to yellow and die. If you have recently moved your Jade Plant to a new spot, check to make sure it is not exposed to cold drafts and that it is receiving plenty of light.
Overwatering
As succulents, Jade Plants only need to be watered when the soil in their pot has dried out completely. If you keep your Jade Plant on a windowsill, watering it once every 2 weeks should be enough. Do not keep the pot standing in a saucer that catches excess water as this will waterlog the soil and quickly rot a Jade Plant’s roots, killing the whole plant. If the leaves on your Jade Plant are plump but turning yellow, reduce the amount and frequency of water. If you repot a Jade Plant, transfer it to a pot that is only slightly larger, as excess soil will act like a sponge and retain water around the roots.
Underwatering
A completely neglected and underwatered Jade Plant will eventually lose leaves in a bid to reduce the amount of water it transpires. An underwatered Jade Plant will have wrinkled, leathery leaves that are not shiny, while a healthy plant has glossy, smooth leaves. A thorough watering will soon rehydrate the plant and promote new leaf growth.
Overfertilizing
Succulent plants need very little fertilizer; too much can burn a Jade Plant’s roots and cause the leaves to turn yellow and drop. Use standard houseplant fertilizer at one quarter strength once a month or use a specialized succulent fertilizer.
Underfertilizing
WhileJade Plants will tolerate a lot of neglect, a potted plant will eventually be unable to get any more nutrition from its soil and will start to suffer. If all the leaves on your Jade Plant are very pale green or yellow, it might need to be fertilized with a special succulent fertilizer enriched with micronutrients or with bonemeal.
Natural Causes
Jade Plants that are not pruned will shed old leaves every year before their dormant winter phase. These leaves, generally large, older ones at the base of the stems, will first turn yellow and then drop off. This is a natural process and not a sign that there is a problem with your plant.
Other Causes
Do not use leaf shine products on your Jade Plant as they block up the pores on the leaves and suffocate the plant, causing the leaves to yellow and die. If you have recently moved your Jade Plant to a new spot, check to make sure it is not exposed to cold drafts and that it is receiving plenty of light.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents grow the most during the spring and summer. Once fall rolls around the plants like to take a break. During their fall/winter dormant period, watering should be reduced.
Succulents that you keep inside or in a warm greenhouse during the winter (like Echeveria and other tender succulents) should be watered only enough to prevent the roots from dying off. This can range between once every couple weeks and once every couple months.
Cold hardy succulents like Sempervivum and Sedum need even less water in the winter. When the temperatures are below 50°F (10°C) it is best not to water at all. Wet roots at low temperatures are the perfect conditions for rot.
Many plants suffer from desiccation in the winter. This is when a plant loses more water through evaporation than it can absorb through its roots. Before severely cold weather we water evergreen plants well to help prevent damage (once the ground freezes the plants cannot absorb water, but continue to lose it). Do NOT do this with succulents. Hens and Chicks like the opposite treatment. When freezing temperatures hit you want the soil with your succulents to be as dry as possible.
Of course, dry soil and winter is sort of an oxymoron (only possible if your plants are in a covered area). So, winter is also when it’s most important that your soil has excellent drainage.
Your reduced watering schedule should last until you begin to see new growth on your plants in the spring. The weather may still be a little cold, but your succulents will appreciate more water as they start to grow again.
Succulents that you keep inside or in a warm greenhouse during the winter (like Echeveria and other tender succulents) should be watered only enough to prevent the roots from dying off. This can range between once every couple weeks and once every couple months.
Cold hardy succulents like Sempervivum and Sedum need even less water in the winter. When the temperatures are below 50°F (10°C) it is best not to water at all. Wet roots at low temperatures are the perfect conditions for rot.
Many plants suffer from desiccation in the winter. This is when a plant loses more water through evaporation than it can absorb through its roots. Before severely cold weather we water evergreen plants well to help prevent damage (once the ground freezes the plants cannot absorb water, but continue to lose it). Do NOT do this with succulents. Hens and Chicks like the opposite treatment. When freezing temperatures hit you want the soil with your succulents to be as dry as possible.
Of course, dry soil and winter is sort of an oxymoron (only possible if your plants are in a covered area). So, winter is also when it’s most important that your soil has excellent drainage.
Your reduced watering schedule should last until you begin to see new growth on your plants in the spring. The weather may still be a little cold, but your succulents will appreciate more water as they start to grow again.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Cacti require little water and few nutrients to grow and thrive. A standard potting soil retains too much moisture, which can cause the cactus roots to rot. Most potting soils also come with nutrients added in the form of compost or fertilizers, which can negatively impact the cactus.
Making your own soil mixture ensures the plants receive the proper drainage necessary for healthy growth. The type of cactus soil needed depends on whether you are potting a tropical Holiday Cactus, which tolerates more moisture, or a desert cactus that needs a drier soil.
Combine equal parts peat moss and ground fir bark in a bucket to create a base potting mixture for tropical or desert cacti. Alternatively, use a premade potting mixture that doesn’t contain soil. Peat moss isn’t a problem as long as you are careful of how much water you give your plants. Potting soil with peat moss, tends to retain too much water to keep cacti healthy and thriving.
Mix two parts of the potting base mix with one part coarse builder’s sand for a tropical or Holiday Cactus, which requires more moisture and tolerates less drainage than desert cacti. Substitute perlite, pumice or vermiculite, if desired.
Use equal parts of the base potting mix and coarse sand, perlite, pumice or vermiculite for a desert cactus, as they cannot tolerate too much moisture retention and grow better in a sandy, well-drained mixture.
Mix the ingredients together until they are completely combined. Break up any large clods that form so the potting mix is evenly blended.
Water the mixture in the bucket prior to filling the pots and planting the cactus. Allow the peat or coir in the mix to absorb the water for at least one hour. Use for potting when the mixture feels moist but no water droplets form if you squeeze a handful.
Tip
Cactus plants have low nutrient requirements, so there is no need to add fertilizers to the potting mix. Instead, fertilize the plants sparingly with a soluble cactus fertilizer every three to four months.
Warning
Over-watering can quickly kill a cactus. Place the soil only in pots that contain drainage holes to allow excess moisture to drip from the pot. Water most cactus varieties only when the soil has almost completely dried.
Making your own soil mixture ensures the plants receive the proper drainage necessary for healthy growth. The type of cactus soil needed depends on whether you are potting a tropical Holiday Cactus, which tolerates more moisture, or a desert cactus that needs a drier soil.
Combine equal parts peat moss and ground fir bark in a bucket to create a base potting mixture for tropical or desert cacti. Alternatively, use a premade potting mixture that doesn’t contain soil. Peat moss isn’t a problem as long as you are careful of how much water you give your plants. Potting soil with peat moss, tends to retain too much water to keep cacti healthy and thriving.
Mix two parts of the potting base mix with one part coarse builder’s sand for a tropical or Holiday Cactus, which requires more moisture and tolerates less drainage than desert cacti. Substitute perlite, pumice or vermiculite, if desired.
Use equal parts of the base potting mix and coarse sand, perlite, pumice or vermiculite for a desert cactus, as they cannot tolerate too much moisture retention and grow better in a sandy, well-drained mixture.
Mix the ingredients together until they are completely combined. Break up any large clods that form so the potting mix is evenly blended.
Water the mixture in the bucket prior to filling the pots and planting the cactus. Allow the peat or coir in the mix to absorb the water for at least one hour. Use for potting when the mixture feels moist but no water droplets form if you squeeze a handful.
Tip
Cactus plants have low nutrient requirements, so there is no need to add fertilizers to the potting mix. Instead, fertilize the plants sparingly with a soluble cactus fertilizer every three to four months.
Warning
Over-watering can quickly kill a cactus. Place the soil only in pots that contain drainage holes to allow excess moisture to drip from the pot. Water most cactus varieties only when the soil has almost completely dried.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Succulents are group of plants that have fleshy leaves, stems or roots designed for storing water and allowing the plants to survive periods of drought. Whether your succulents grow in containers on a patio, as groundcovers between the pavers in a garden path or as colorful and interesting accents in a garden bed, they need a growing medium suited to their capacity for retaining water.
Soil Requirements
Although succulents retain moisture well, they do still need moderate to regular watering, at least once a week or a deep soaking every few weeks during the growing season. But too much water will cause the roots to develop black stem rot, so the trick is finding a growing medium that drains quickly and dries out completely between watering. Succulents do best with soil that is normally considered poor, filled with inorganic elements, as opposed to one rich in organic material.
Organic and Inorganic Elements
Despite their need for well-draining soil, succulents do need some nutrients that organic elements provide. Some gardeners recommends a mix of 1 part garden soil, 1 part sand and 1 part peat moss or a mixture of 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite. Other gardeners avoid potting mixes containing peat, remove any wood and twigs from the mix and add a coarse, gritty type of sand to potting soil.
Testing the Soil
Using sand, pumice, decomposed granite or perlite as the inorganic element in your succulent growing medium is less important than simply ensuring that the soil crumbles easily and lets water flow quickly through. If your soil falls apart after you wet it and give it a squeeze, it has the right components. If it remains formed into a lump, it needs more inorganic elements added to the mix.
Other Growing Medium Needs
The best soil for succulents is slightly acidic with a high lime content. If a soil test kit determines that your soil is highly acidic, your plants will benefit from some horticultural lime added to the soil. If your soil is overly alkaline, change the balance by watering with a solution of 1 tablespoon of white vinegar added to 5 gallons water. Top off your growing medium with a layer of gravel or small river rock to keep the tops of the plants dry.
Soil Requirements
Although succulents retain moisture well, they do still need moderate to regular watering, at least once a week or a deep soaking every few weeks during the growing season. But too much water will cause the roots to develop black stem rot, so the trick is finding a growing medium that drains quickly and dries out completely between watering. Succulents do best with soil that is normally considered poor, filled with inorganic elements, as opposed to one rich in organic material.
Organic and Inorganic Elements
Despite their need for well-draining soil, succulents do need some nutrients that organic elements provide. Some gardeners recommends a mix of 1 part garden soil, 1 part sand and 1 part peat moss or a mixture of 1 part potting soil and 1 part perlite. Other gardeners avoid potting mixes containing peat, remove any wood and twigs from the mix and add a coarse, gritty type of sand to potting soil.
Testing the Soil
Using sand, pumice, decomposed granite or perlite as the inorganic element in your succulent growing medium is less important than simply ensuring that the soil crumbles easily and lets water flow quickly through. If your soil falls apart after you wet it and give it a squeeze, it has the right components. If it remains formed into a lump, it needs more inorganic elements added to the mix.
Other Growing Medium Needs
The best soil for succulents is slightly acidic with a high lime content. If a soil test kit determines that your soil is highly acidic, your plants will benefit from some horticultural lime added to the soil. If your soil is overly alkaline, change the balance by watering with a solution of 1 tablespoon of white vinegar added to 5 gallons water. Top off your growing medium with a layer of gravel or small river rock to keep the tops of the plants dry.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color. Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65ºF/18ºC – 70ºF/21ºC). In winter, cool to 50ºF/10ºC.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot.
Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant. Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy Aloe and Echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia. In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between watering. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50˚F/10˚C).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don’t feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant. When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents).
Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3 inches (7.5 cm) and 5 (12.5 cm) inches in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets. When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Grower’s Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia. As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances. At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you’re given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn’t, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above. Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
The succulent Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) grows wild in its native southern Africa, where it can reach 8 to 9 feet tall and spread about as wide. The fleshy oval leaves measure about 1 inch long at maturity. Mature stems are barklike, with softer tip growth. The plant responds to leaf pruning or removal by quickly sending out new, small leaves. Use this natural trait to your advantage with jade bonsai to keep the leaves in scale and to help keep a mature jade from becoming top-heavy.
1. Prune unwieldy branches with bonsai pruners or small, sharp-pointed scissors to achieve a tree framework. Do this in stages, if necessary, allowing the plant to fill in with new growth between prunings so you can better envision the shape of the mature bonsai. Remove large leaves to open the plant and allow light to reach inner stems where you want new, smaller leaves to grow. Pruning cuts should be flush with the main branch so they can form a smooth callus. Both stubs and scooped-out cuts create conditions for stem rot infections.
2. Trim jade once or twice a week to control the size and density of the leaf buds. Pinch off oversized leaves, or pinch off leaf buds growing in unwanted places, such as on the lower trunk of the plant. Nip the tips of leggy branches to encourage clusters of new leaf buds to develop. Long tweezers make it easy to reach within the plant to remove pruned bits.
3. Avoid using wound sealant. Instead, let pruned areas air dry and form a callus. Pathogens trapped under sealant can cause bacterial or fungal rot. Clean the pruning cutter blades with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of disease, especially if you use the same tools with several plants.
4. Train longer branches into interesting configurations by gently coiling copper wire around each branch you want to manipulate. The coil should be loose. Carefully bend the branch once or twice a week in small increments, nudging it into the desired shape. Jade responds quickly to wiring and can maintain its new form in as little as three weeks. If the wire leaves small imprints where it contacted the branch, the marks typically disappear as water replenishes the branch after the wire is removed.
Things You Will Need
Sharp-pointed small scissors or bonsai pruners
Rubbing alcohol
Long tweezers
Copper wire, optional.
Tip
Don’t water jade immediately before wiring. After watering, jade cells fill with water, making the stems rigid and more likely to break during the wiring process. Resume normal watering after the wire is in place.
A similar plant sometimes sold as a jade, Portulacaria afra has naturally smaller, 1/2-inch leaves. It is useful for creating a smaller scale bonsai with minimum pruning. The space between leaf nodes is also shorter, so Portulacaria afra bonsai appears to be more compact than Crassula ovata.
1. Prune unwieldy branches with bonsai pruners or small, sharp-pointed scissors to achieve a tree framework. Do this in stages, if necessary, allowing the plant to fill in with new growth between prunings so you can better envision the shape of the mature bonsai. Remove large leaves to open the plant and allow light to reach inner stems where you want new, smaller leaves to grow. Pruning cuts should be flush with the main branch so they can form a smooth callus. Both stubs and scooped-out cuts create conditions for stem rot infections.
2. Trim jade once or twice a week to control the size and density of the leaf buds. Pinch off oversized leaves, or pinch off leaf buds growing in unwanted places, such as on the lower trunk of the plant. Nip the tips of leggy branches to encourage clusters of new leaf buds to develop. Long tweezers make it easy to reach within the plant to remove pruned bits.
3. Avoid using wound sealant. Instead, let pruned areas air dry and form a callus. Pathogens trapped under sealant can cause bacterial or fungal rot. Clean the pruning cutter blades with rubbing alcohol after each cut to prevent the spread of disease, especially if you use the same tools with several plants.
4. Train longer branches into interesting configurations by gently coiling copper wire around each branch you want to manipulate. The coil should be loose. Carefully bend the branch once or twice a week in small increments, nudging it into the desired shape. Jade responds quickly to wiring and can maintain its new form in as little as three weeks. If the wire leaves small imprints where it contacted the branch, the marks typically disappear as water replenishes the branch after the wire is removed.
Things You Will Need
Sharp-pointed small scissors or bonsai pruners
Rubbing alcohol
Long tweezers
Copper wire, optional.
Tip
Don’t water jade immediately before wiring. After watering, jade cells fill with water, making the stems rigid and more likely to break during the wiring process. Resume normal watering after the wire is in place.
A similar plant sometimes sold as a jade, Portulacaria afra has naturally smaller, 1/2-inch leaves. It is useful for creating a smaller scale bonsai with minimum pruning. The space between leaf nodes is also shorter, so Portulacaria afra bonsai appears to be more compact than Crassula ovata.
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