文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月02日
Pruning strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) encourages them to grow strongly and produce plenty of fruit. Strawberries are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 11. June-bearing or short-day strawberries fruit in spring and early summer; ever-bearing varieties produce strawberries through the growing season; day-neutral plants usually fruit three months after planting. Before and after pruning strawberries, wipe your pruning shear blades with rubbing alcohol to help prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
First-Year Plants
Pruning flowers on strawberries in their first year increases fruit production later. June-bearing, ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries that have their first flowers pruned also grow more vigorously than unpruned plants.
Prune all the flowering stalks on June-bearing strawberries in the first growing season. Prune the stalks at their bases where they join the rest of the plant. Prune the first flush of flowers that appear on ever-bearing strawberries after planting. If your ever-bearing plants are growing strongly, you can allow the second flush of flowers to develop into fruits. Prune flowers on day-neutral varieties for six weeks after planting.
Matted Rows
Selective pruning of strawberry runners helps produce matted rows of plants. Runners are shoots that grow out from plants and develop roots, which grow into new plants. Matted rows of strawberries are wide rows that cover bare soil and suppress weeds.
To create matted rows of June-bearing or ever-bearing strawberries, plant new plants 12 to 18 inches apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. When runners appear, encourage six from each plant to form roots. Weigh them down, evenly spaced around the plants, with small stones or U-shaped pieces of wire at their nodes, which are bumps on the stems. Prune all other runners that appear at their bases where they join the rest of the plant.
Grow day-neutral strawberries 9 inches apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Prune all runners on day-neutral plants in the first year, and allow them to form matted rows in the second and third year.
Ribbon Rows
Ribbon rows are rows of single strawberries. Growing strawberries in ribbon rows allows air to circulate and reduces the risk of pests and diseases.
To grow June-bearing, ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries in ribbon rows, space the plants 4 to 9 inches apart in rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Prune all the runners that appear through the life of the plants. To help prevent problems with weeds, spread a 2-inch layer of sawdust or a 4-inch layer of clean straw between the strawberry plants.
Gray Mold
Strawberries suffer from a fungal disease called gray mold, but pruning helps reduce the disease's spread. Gray mold often affects strawberries in damp weather and in sites with poor air circulation. Blossoms and fruit slowly turn moldy, and finally a dusty, gray mold covers whole fruits.
Prune infected blossoms and fruit, and dead leaves, on June-bearing, ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries. Pick healthy fruit at least every other day, and immediately refrigerate it. Water in the morning at the plant bases to help prevent gray mold.
First-Year Plants
Pruning flowers on strawberries in their first year increases fruit production later. June-bearing, ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries that have their first flowers pruned also grow more vigorously than unpruned plants.
Prune all the flowering stalks on June-bearing strawberries in the first growing season. Prune the stalks at their bases where they join the rest of the plant. Prune the first flush of flowers that appear on ever-bearing strawberries after planting. If your ever-bearing plants are growing strongly, you can allow the second flush of flowers to develop into fruits. Prune flowers on day-neutral varieties for six weeks after planting.
Matted Rows
Selective pruning of strawberry runners helps produce matted rows of plants. Runners are shoots that grow out from plants and develop roots, which grow into new plants. Matted rows of strawberries are wide rows that cover bare soil and suppress weeds.
To create matted rows of June-bearing or ever-bearing strawberries, plant new plants 12 to 18 inches apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. When runners appear, encourage six from each plant to form roots. Weigh them down, evenly spaced around the plants, with small stones or U-shaped pieces of wire at their nodes, which are bumps on the stems. Prune all other runners that appear at their bases where they join the rest of the plant.
Grow day-neutral strawberries 9 inches apart in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Prune all runners on day-neutral plants in the first year, and allow them to form matted rows in the second and third year.
Ribbon Rows
Ribbon rows are rows of single strawberries. Growing strawberries in ribbon rows allows air to circulate and reduces the risk of pests and diseases.
To grow June-bearing, ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries in ribbon rows, space the plants 4 to 9 inches apart in rows 2 to 3 feet apart. Prune all the runners that appear through the life of the plants. To help prevent problems with weeds, spread a 2-inch layer of sawdust or a 4-inch layer of clean straw between the strawberry plants.
Gray Mold
Strawberries suffer from a fungal disease called gray mold, but pruning helps reduce the disease's spread. Gray mold often affects strawberries in damp weather and in sites with poor air circulation. Blossoms and fruit slowly turn moldy, and finally a dusty, gray mold covers whole fruits.
Prune infected blossoms and fruit, and dead leaves, on June-bearing, ever-bearing and day-neutral strawberries. Pick healthy fruit at least every other day, and immediately refrigerate it. Water in the morning at the plant bases to help prevent gray mold.
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成长记
greenwhalepinkshark
2017年11月01日
This ghostie lost its color after summer...but after some r&r with the grow lights, the color is coming back! 😊
2
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
Tomatoes are 95 percent water, with most varieties soaking up summer rains to become pump and juicy on the vine. Water – along with sunshine and nutrient-rich soil – is needed at every stage of the growing process. Otherwise, tomatoes won't grow, blossom and produce fruit. The manner in which water is delivered, either via rain or via a controlled system, can affect tomatoes in a positive way, or can also have devastating results.
Cracking and Splitting
A tomato's fragile skin can easily start splitting and cracking due to inconsistencies in soil moisture. Once a tomato starts to ripen, it forms a protective skin that helps it during harvest, but if rain is heavy during ripening time and the tomato receives too much water, that skin will crack and split. Laying mulch and setting up a regular watering schedule can help prevent splitting and cracking by keeping the soil moisture consistent despite irregular rain.
Blossom End Rot
A tomato plant can start to rot at its blossoms, causing the blossom end of the fruit to turn brown. If rain has been inconsistent, your tomato plants are not getting enough nutrition, especially calcium, because the soil is dry and not able to deliver the proper nutrients to the plant. To remedy this, be sure to lay mulch on your garden to retain moisture and don't rely only on rain to water your garden. Water your garden daily to keep the soil consistently moist. If splitting or cracking has occurred, remove the bad tomatoes and apply a calcium chloride spray to the new growth.
Insects
A strong, heavy rain can help keep your tomato plants free from spider mites, which are barely visible to the human eye, and aphids, which are tiny pear-shaped insects that like to hang out on leaves. The pressure from a heavy rain can keep these insects at bay by washing them away, but if there hasn't been a hard rain in a long time, soapy water or a chemical spray may be needed to control the insects.
Fungal Blight
Fungal blight can devastate a tomato plant, with the spots first appearing on lower leaves. Fungal blight rarely occurs during dry times, but once the rainy, humid season hits, fungal blight can quickly destroy a tomato plant. To control blight, fungicide sprays should be applied prior to a rain event.
Cracking and Splitting
A tomato's fragile skin can easily start splitting and cracking due to inconsistencies in soil moisture. Once a tomato starts to ripen, it forms a protective skin that helps it during harvest, but if rain is heavy during ripening time and the tomato receives too much water, that skin will crack and split. Laying mulch and setting up a regular watering schedule can help prevent splitting and cracking by keeping the soil moisture consistent despite irregular rain.
Blossom End Rot
A tomato plant can start to rot at its blossoms, causing the blossom end of the fruit to turn brown. If rain has been inconsistent, your tomato plants are not getting enough nutrition, especially calcium, because the soil is dry and not able to deliver the proper nutrients to the plant. To remedy this, be sure to lay mulch on your garden to retain moisture and don't rely only on rain to water your garden. Water your garden daily to keep the soil consistently moist. If splitting or cracking has occurred, remove the bad tomatoes and apply a calcium chloride spray to the new growth.
Insects
A strong, heavy rain can help keep your tomato plants free from spider mites, which are barely visible to the human eye, and aphids, which are tiny pear-shaped insects that like to hang out on leaves. The pressure from a heavy rain can keep these insects at bay by washing them away, but if there hasn't been a hard rain in a long time, soapy water or a chemical spray may be needed to control the insects.
Fungal Blight
Fungal blight can devastate a tomato plant, with the spots first appearing on lower leaves. Fungal blight rarely occurs during dry times, but once the rainy, humid season hits, fungal blight can quickly destroy a tomato plant. To control blight, fungicide sprays should be applied prior to a rain event.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
Strawberry plants grow low to the ground and produce runners. They self-propagate through "daughter" plants. Self-propagation assures several years of continued growth, with three to five years of continued fruit production. Like all perennials, though, strawberry plants need specific fall and winter 
Preparation
Successful strawberry patches begin with the right planting area and soil for long-term success -- and also makes protecting the plants during the winter an easier task. Plant strawberries to receive full sunshine and quick drainage all year to keep them healthy in both summer and winter. Use a generous amount of organic compost at planting to maintain soil quality, and keep the soil from flooding or freezing in fall and winter.
Renovation
According to Purdue University, strawberry patches require yearly renovation in the fall to continue efficient growth and fruit production. Renovate your strawberry patch in late summer or fall, depending on the strawberry cultivar. Always start immediately after the last fruit harvest. This renovation eliminates old, finished plants and encourages new growth.
Process
Give the strawberries 12-12-12 fertilizer at a rate of 4 to 6 lbs. per 100 feet of row. Mix the fertilizer into the top 2 inches of soil to encourage new runner development. Mow all foliage down to within 1 inch of the soil, and pull up excess growth to narrow the rows to 6 to 8 inches. Cover the rows with 1/2 inch of soil and water as usual, to allow for new growth.
Winter Protection
Mulching and winter protection must follow renovation, to protect strawberries through the cold season. When new plants emerge from your renovated soil, water and weed them as usual until two to three weeks before the first frost of the season. At that time, give the new plants 12-12-12 fertilizer per manufacturer directions, then spread 4 to 5 inches of organic mulch, straw or shredded paper over the path. Maintain this layer through winter and turn it into the soil in spring.
Preparation
Successful strawberry patches begin with the right planting area and soil for long-term success -- and also makes protecting the plants during the winter an easier task. Plant strawberries to receive full sunshine and quick drainage all year to keep them healthy in both summer and winter. Use a generous amount of organic compost at planting to maintain soil quality, and keep the soil from flooding or freezing in fall and winter.
Renovation
According to Purdue University, strawberry patches require yearly renovation in the fall to continue efficient growth and fruit production. Renovate your strawberry patch in late summer or fall, depending on the strawberry cultivar. Always start immediately after the last fruit harvest. This renovation eliminates old, finished plants and encourages new growth.
Process
Give the strawberries 12-12-12 fertilizer at a rate of 4 to 6 lbs. per 100 feet of row. Mix the fertilizer into the top 2 inches of soil to encourage new runner development. Mow all foliage down to within 1 inch of the soil, and pull up excess growth to narrow the rows to 6 to 8 inches. Cover the rows with 1/2 inch of soil and water as usual, to allow for new growth.
Winter Protection
Mulching and winter protection must follow renovation, to protect strawberries through the cold season. When new plants emerge from your renovated soil, water and weed them as usual until two to three weeks before the first frost of the season. At that time, give the new plants 12-12-12 fertilizer per manufacturer directions, then spread 4 to 5 inches of organic mulch, straw or shredded paper over the path. Maintain this layer through winter and turn it into the soil in spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月27日
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are grown as annuals in most American vegetable gardens for eating and cooking. While they are relatively hardy and easy to grow, they are susceptible to four varieties of blight. A number of treatments can destroy and prevent blight. Prior to treatment, fruit showing signs of blight infection should not be eaten or used for canning.
Types of Blight
There are four types of blight that attack tomatoes:
Early blight is cause by a fungus called Alternaria solani. It causes brown wounds on foliage, stems and fruit. The wounds grow and can damage an entire tomato fruit. Wounds frequently develop into a bulls-eye type spot. Tomatoes eventually drop from the stems. The fungus lives in debris and soil under the plants and benefits from moist conditions.
Late blight develops within 14 days of a tomato plant contracting the fungus Phytophthora infestnas. Symptoms include browning and shriveling leaves and stems. In addition, dark, water-soaked lesions appear on leaves that develop into spots with white mold edges. Fruits have dark lesions that can grow across broad areas. This fungus spreads through rain and wind. Late blight flourishes in cool, wet conditions.
Septoria leaf spot, caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici, attacks lower leaves once fruit begins to set. Look for small black specks surrounded by light-colored circles with dark borders. These tiny specks produce more fungal spores. Severe infections can result in plants losing all leaves. Septoria leaf spot impairs production, resulting in smaller, inferior fruits. The fungus overwinters on previous crops and old vegetation.
Southern blight is caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. This fungus rots stems near the soil line and wilts leaves. The brown rot is comprised of lesions that often have a white fungal covering. Southern blight can damage fruits that touch the soil. The fungus can live in soil and plant debris for years. It prefers moist, hot conditions.
Homemade Fungicide and Myths
If you prefer to make your own fungicide, mix 2 tablespoons each of cooking oil, baby shampoo and baking soda in 1 gallon of water. Spray mixture on both sides of leaves until dripping. Reapply every five to seven days until fungus is gone. Water plants the day before applying this mixture.
While you made have heard the rumor that a copper wire inserted into a tomato stem prevents blight, experts at the National Gardening Association have found no truth to the rumor.
Home remedy rumors related to curing blight with bleach are also unfounded. Blight is a fungus that requires a fungicide. Bleach primarily kills bacteria. Bleach damages gardening tools, plant tissues, plant seeds and clothing. It can also cause human health issues.
Some gardeners apply cornmeal to the soil or create a cornmeal spray to prevent blight. Cornmeal is often used in scientific and university labs to grow fungi, so it certainly is not a fungicide. Cornmeal cannot cure or prevent blight.
Commercial Products
Treat blight infections by dusting plants with a commercially available copper fungicide. Using a pressure duster, apply a thin layer of fungicide powder on the plant, dusting the tops and bottoms of leaves. Reapply every three to 10 days if necessary until symptoms are gone, and blight is cured.
Gardeners can treat tomato plants with fungicide up until the day before harvesting fruit. Keep children and pets away when dusting plants until the dust has completely settled.
Repairing Soil and Prevention
A number of measures will prevent blight:
Water plants from beneath to keep foliage dry
Space plants so they do not touch
Use only disease-free plants and seeds
Mulch under plants
Practice crop rotation by waiting three years to plant tomatoes in the same area
Remove plants and underlying debris after the final harvest
Choose blight-resistant cultivars
Remove any nearby potato plants and weeds
Avoid composting potatoes that are rotten or purchased at a store
Prevent southern blight by placing a barrier of aluminum foil around the lower 2 inches of plant stems. Bury the bottoms of the foil sleeves into the soil 1 to 2 inches. This will block the fungus from infecting the plants.
Repair and cure blight-infected soil by deeply turning the top 10 inches of ground over. This practice buries the tiny seeds of the fungus, which can live in the topsoil for years.
Types of Blight
There are four types of blight that attack tomatoes:
Early blight is cause by a fungus called Alternaria solani. It causes brown wounds on foliage, stems and fruit. The wounds grow and can damage an entire tomato fruit. Wounds frequently develop into a bulls-eye type spot. Tomatoes eventually drop from the stems. The fungus lives in debris and soil under the plants and benefits from moist conditions.
Late blight develops within 14 days of a tomato plant contracting the fungus Phytophthora infestnas. Symptoms include browning and shriveling leaves and stems. In addition, dark, water-soaked lesions appear on leaves that develop into spots with white mold edges. Fruits have dark lesions that can grow across broad areas. This fungus spreads through rain and wind. Late blight flourishes in cool, wet conditions.
Septoria leaf spot, caused by the fungus Septoria lycopersici, attacks lower leaves once fruit begins to set. Look for small black specks surrounded by light-colored circles with dark borders. These tiny specks produce more fungal spores. Severe infections can result in plants losing all leaves. Septoria leaf spot impairs production, resulting in smaller, inferior fruits. The fungus overwinters on previous crops and old vegetation.
Southern blight is caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. This fungus rots stems near the soil line and wilts leaves. The brown rot is comprised of lesions that often have a white fungal covering. Southern blight can damage fruits that touch the soil. The fungus can live in soil and plant debris for years. It prefers moist, hot conditions.
Homemade Fungicide and Myths
If you prefer to make your own fungicide, mix 2 tablespoons each of cooking oil, baby shampoo and baking soda in 1 gallon of water. Spray mixture on both sides of leaves until dripping. Reapply every five to seven days until fungus is gone. Water plants the day before applying this mixture.
While you made have heard the rumor that a copper wire inserted into a tomato stem prevents blight, experts at the National Gardening Association have found no truth to the rumor.
Home remedy rumors related to curing blight with bleach are also unfounded. Blight is a fungus that requires a fungicide. Bleach primarily kills bacteria. Bleach damages gardening tools, plant tissues, plant seeds and clothing. It can also cause human health issues.
Some gardeners apply cornmeal to the soil or create a cornmeal spray to prevent blight. Cornmeal is often used in scientific and university labs to grow fungi, so it certainly is not a fungicide. Cornmeal cannot cure or prevent blight.
Commercial Products
Treat blight infections by dusting plants with a commercially available copper fungicide. Using a pressure duster, apply a thin layer of fungicide powder on the plant, dusting the tops and bottoms of leaves. Reapply every three to 10 days if necessary until symptoms are gone, and blight is cured.
Gardeners can treat tomato plants with fungicide up until the day before harvesting fruit. Keep children and pets away when dusting plants until the dust has completely settled.
Repairing Soil and Prevention
A number of measures will prevent blight:
Water plants from beneath to keep foliage dry
Space plants so they do not touch
Use only disease-free plants and seeds
Mulch under plants
Practice crop rotation by waiting three years to plant tomatoes in the same area
Remove plants and underlying debris after the final harvest
Choose blight-resistant cultivars
Remove any nearby potato plants and weeds
Avoid composting potatoes that are rotten or purchased at a store
Prevent southern blight by placing a barrier of aluminum foil around the lower 2 inches of plant stems. Bury the bottoms of the foil sleeves into the soil 1 to 2 inches. This will block the fungus from infecting the plants.
Repair and cure blight-infected soil by deeply turning the top 10 inches of ground over. This practice buries the tiny seeds of the fungus, which can live in the topsoil for years.
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求助
yeeningho
2017年10月27日
How to care and grow?
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Kiersten_27：Lightly water once a week
Brittany Paterson NJ：Lots of sun!
家苗铭凯：月兔耳
文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月26日
Not only are grapes a healthy food to eat, but few things taste any better than fresh grapes plucked straight from the vine. In addition, because grapes grow in virtually every area of the country, all it takes is a spot to plant them and most home gardeners can enjoy this tasty fruit fresh from their own vines. However, grape vines take time to grow and to become established before they begin producing fruit.
Harvest Time
One mature vine can produce 10 lbs. or more of fresh grapes per season.
Grape vines require patience. The first several years after grape vines are planted they do not produce fruit. During those first few years grape vine's root structure grows and the vine develops strong and numerous branches to hold all those grapes it eventually produces. But do not expect to see any grapes until at least the third year. In addition, it takes about five to six years for grapevines to begin producing a consistent, heavy crop of grapes. But the wait is worth it -- one mature vine can produce 10 lbs. or more of fresh grapes per season.
Selecting a Site
When planting in rows, the vines receive more sunlight if planted in a north-to-south direction and that results in higher-quality grapes.
Because grape vines take at least three years to begin producing fruit, planting represents a long-term commitment. Once established, with proper care grape vines can live and produce grapes for 50 to 100 years. So plant the vines in the right spot, because it disrupts their growth to move them. Choose a sunny, well-drained area to ensure reliable production of quality grapes. In climates where spring frost is possible, select a sheltered spot. When planting in rows, the vines receive more sunlight if planted in a north-to-south direction and that results in higher-quality grapes.
Basic Grape Categories
A local nursery will have a selection of grapes that grow best in your area.
With hundreds of different cultivars there is plenty of choice. To help make your decision, it helps to know that there are four basic categories of grapes, Muscadine (Vitis rotundifolia), American (Vitis labrusca), European (Vitis vinifera) and French hybrids, which are crosses of V. vinifera cultivars with wild American species that are resistant to disease, according to West Virginia University Extension. Regardless of your choice, all grapevine varieties take about the same time before they begin producing fruit. In addition, a local nursery will have a selection of grapes that grow best in your area.
Choosing Grape Vines
Grapes come in seeded or seedless varieties in many different colors including white, green, red, black, blue-black and purplish. Decide if you want to grow bunch grapes, which includes Concord, or Muscadine grapes, which includes Scuppernogs, or grow both. Bunch grapes are self-fertile and can be planted alone or with other varieties. Keep in mind that some grapes are more high-maintenance than others. While the American grape varieties are resistant to disease, the vinifera type grapes need periodic chemical sprays during the year to control pests. American and French-American hybrids are the most commonly grown types for home gardens.
Harvest Time
One mature vine can produce 10 lbs. or more of fresh grapes per season.
Grape vines require patience. The first several years after grape vines are planted they do not produce fruit. During those first few years grape vine's root structure grows and the vine develops strong and numerous branches to hold all those grapes it eventually produces. But do not expect to see any grapes until at least the third year. In addition, it takes about five to six years for grapevines to begin producing a consistent, heavy crop of grapes. But the wait is worth it -- one mature vine can produce 10 lbs. or more of fresh grapes per season.
Selecting a Site
When planting in rows, the vines receive more sunlight if planted in a north-to-south direction and that results in higher-quality grapes.
Because grape vines take at least three years to begin producing fruit, planting represents a long-term commitment. Once established, with proper care grape vines can live and produce grapes for 50 to 100 years. So plant the vines in the right spot, because it disrupts their growth to move them. Choose a sunny, well-drained area to ensure reliable production of quality grapes. In climates where spring frost is possible, select a sheltered spot. When planting in rows, the vines receive more sunlight if planted in a north-to-south direction and that results in higher-quality grapes.
Basic Grape Categories
A local nursery will have a selection of grapes that grow best in your area.
With hundreds of different cultivars there is plenty of choice. To help make your decision, it helps to know that there are four basic categories of grapes, Muscadine (Vitis rotundifolia), American (Vitis labrusca), European (Vitis vinifera) and French hybrids, which are crosses of V. vinifera cultivars with wild American species that are resistant to disease, according to West Virginia University Extension. Regardless of your choice, all grapevine varieties take about the same time before they begin producing fruit. In addition, a local nursery will have a selection of grapes that grow best in your area.
Choosing Grape Vines
Grapes come in seeded or seedless varieties in many different colors including white, green, red, black, blue-black and purplish. Decide if you want to grow bunch grapes, which includes Concord, or Muscadine grapes, which includes Scuppernogs, or grow both. Bunch grapes are self-fertile and can be planted alone or with other varieties. Keep in mind that some grapes are more high-maintenance than others. While the American grape varieties are resistant to disease, the vinifera type grapes need periodic chemical sprays during the year to control pests. American and French-American hybrids are the most commonly grown types for home gardens.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月26日
Grapes are planted in the late winter to early spring months. The plants start to grow in spring and continue to grow throughout the summer season. Grapes ripen in the late summer to early fall, depending on the variety grown. Grape varieties are available for USDA hardiness zones 5 through 9.
Location
Grapes require a location that receives high summer temperatures and full sunlight. Grape vines need protection from frost, so plant them on southern slopes, and avoid any low spots or places where cold air may collect. The length of the growing season varies among the different grape varieties, but grapes generally need 150 to 180 frost-free days between spring and fall freezes. Late spring freezes can kill newly opened shoots and compromise production.
Pruning
Pruning should be performed in late winter to early spring. When timing your pruning, aim to avoid the coldest parts of winter, but also to beat the period when buds begin to swell, suggests the University of Illinois Extension. New shoots appear on vines in the spring and mature into canes in the fall. When pruning, keep in mind that the previous season's wood supports the current season's growth, and fruit and flowers appear on the current season's growth.
Propagation
You can take cuttings from dormant vines in late fall or early spring to expand your plantings. This task is best performed in early spring so that you can plant your cuttings as soon as they leaf out and their roots develop, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. Cuttings may be taken from vines or pruned material.
Harvest
Grapes are mature and ready for harvest when their seeds turn from green to brown or their flavor reaches its peak. You should not use their skin color as a predictor of ripeness, as grapes may color before they mature. Grapes generally soften and develop a sweeter and less acidic flavor as they mature. If you pick based on color, you may harvest your grapes before they reach an ideal size and sweetness. The flavor of grapes will not improve after harvest.
Selection
Select grape varieties based upon your plans for the fruit, the flavor of the grapes and their disease resistance. When choosing grapes, look for varieties that possess the degree of cold hardiness needed to suit your growing region. Grapes range in hardiness from very cold tender, requiring low temperatures over 0 degrees Fahrenheit, to very hardy, tolerant of temperatures of minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
Location
Grapes require a location that receives high summer temperatures and full sunlight. Grape vines need protection from frost, so plant them on southern slopes, and avoid any low spots or places where cold air may collect. The length of the growing season varies among the different grape varieties, but grapes generally need 150 to 180 frost-free days between spring and fall freezes. Late spring freezes can kill newly opened shoots and compromise production.
Pruning
Pruning should be performed in late winter to early spring. When timing your pruning, aim to avoid the coldest parts of winter, but also to beat the period when buds begin to swell, suggests the University of Illinois Extension. New shoots appear on vines in the spring and mature into canes in the fall. When pruning, keep in mind that the previous season's wood supports the current season's growth, and fruit and flowers appear on the current season's growth.
Propagation
You can take cuttings from dormant vines in late fall or early spring to expand your plantings. This task is best performed in early spring so that you can plant your cuttings as soon as they leaf out and their roots develop, according to the University of Minnesota Extension. Cuttings may be taken from vines or pruned material.
Harvest
Grapes are mature and ready for harvest when their seeds turn from green to brown or their flavor reaches its peak. You should not use their skin color as a predictor of ripeness, as grapes may color before they mature. Grapes generally soften and develop a sweeter and less acidic flavor as they mature. If you pick based on color, you may harvest your grapes before they reach an ideal size and sweetness. The flavor of grapes will not improve after harvest.
Selection
Select grape varieties based upon your plans for the fruit, the flavor of the grapes and their disease resistance. When choosing grapes, look for varieties that possess the degree of cold hardiness needed to suit your growing region. Grapes range in hardiness from very cold tender, requiring low temperatures over 0 degrees Fahrenheit, to very hardy, tolerant of temperatures of minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月26日
Grapes will grow in a hydroponic system, provided they are well-supported and get an adequate flow of nutrients. The container for growing grapes must be large enough to hold the mature plant and arranged so the weight of the plant and fruit won't tip it over. A good hydroponic growing system for grapes is an ebb-and-flow system. This system fills the planter nearly full of liquid nutrients several times a day and then drains the liquid so the plant roots can get air.
Step 1
Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the bottom of the bucket. Fit in a short section of the hose. Caulk around it to prevent leaks and allow it to dry for at least 24 hours. This will allow the nutrient liquid to drain back into the reservoir.
Step 2
Make two ½-inch holes in one end of the plastic storage bin, near the top. The holes will allow both the cord from a submersible pump and a filler hose to pass out of the reservoir while the lid is on. Drill a ½-inch hole in the lid of the bin to allow the drain hose access to the bin. This bin will be the nutrient reservoir.
Step 3
Place a piece of screen over the drain hole to prevent perlite from leaking out. Fill the bucket with perlite. Add a thick layer of clay pellets or silica stones at the bottom to give it some weight. Be sure to use new, sterile pellets, stones and perlite to avoid contaminating the hydroponic system.
Step 4
Plant the grape vine in the perlite to the depth recommended on the plant tag. Be sure the plant is secure in the perlite. Place the bucket on a shelf or table in a sunny location next to a trellis, arbor, fence or netting where you can secure the grape vine as it grows.
Step 5
Set the reservoir in a spot lower than the planting bucket. Attach a filler hose to a submersible pump and place the pump in the reservoir. Run both the pump's power cord and the hose out of the reservoir through the holes in the end. Fill the container about two-thirds full of nutrient solution. Put the lid on it.
Step 6
Fit the plant bucket's drain hose into the hole in the reservoir lid. Bring the filler hose up from the reservoir and clip it securely to the inside of the bucket's rim.
Step 7
Set the timer to run three or four times per day, just long enough to fill the bucket to about an inch from the tip of the perlite. Plug the pump into the time and plug the timer into an outlet to complete your setup for growing hydroponic grapes.
Step 1
Drill a 1/2-inch hole in the bottom of the bucket. Fit in a short section of the hose. Caulk around it to prevent leaks and allow it to dry for at least 24 hours. This will allow the nutrient liquid to drain back into the reservoir.
Step 2
Make two ½-inch holes in one end of the plastic storage bin, near the top. The holes will allow both the cord from a submersible pump and a filler hose to pass out of the reservoir while the lid is on. Drill a ½-inch hole in the lid of the bin to allow the drain hose access to the bin. This bin will be the nutrient reservoir.
Step 3
Place a piece of screen over the drain hole to prevent perlite from leaking out. Fill the bucket with perlite. Add a thick layer of clay pellets or silica stones at the bottom to give it some weight. Be sure to use new, sterile pellets, stones and perlite to avoid contaminating the hydroponic system.
Step 4
Plant the grape vine in the perlite to the depth recommended on the plant tag. Be sure the plant is secure in the perlite. Place the bucket on a shelf or table in a sunny location next to a trellis, arbor, fence or netting where you can secure the grape vine as it grows.
Step 5
Set the reservoir in a spot lower than the planting bucket. Attach a filler hose to a submersible pump and place the pump in the reservoir. Run both the pump's power cord and the hose out of the reservoir through the holes in the end. Fill the container about two-thirds full of nutrient solution. Put the lid on it.
Step 6
Fit the plant bucket's drain hose into the hole in the reservoir lid. Bring the filler hose up from the reservoir and clip it securely to the inside of the bucket's rim.
Step 7
Set the timer to run three or four times per day, just long enough to fill the bucket to about an inch from the tip of the perlite. Plug the pump into the time and plug the timer into an outlet to complete your setup for growing hydroponic grapes.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
Strawberries left to sit on the ground to grow often end up rotting or riddled with insects. When heavy rains come and puddle in the strawberry patch, the wet conditions invite mold to grow on the strawberry fruit. If you want your strawberries to remain bug- and mold-free during the growing and ripening seasons, you have to keep them off the ground. You don't have to worry about this until the plants actually start producing fruit, at which point the weight of the fruit will cause the berry to hang down to the ground.
Step 1
Cover the area where you want to grow your strawberries using black landscaping cloth. Use a shovel to line the edges of the cloth with dirt to keep it from blowing around.
Step 2
Cut an "x" in the landscaping cloth wherever you want to plant a strawberry plant. Use a carpet knife to cut the x's. Plants should be spaced 12 inches apart.
Step 3
Plant the strawberries by opening the flaps of each of the x's and digging a small hole with a garden spade. Dig a hole deep enough and wide enough to keep the roots of the plant from getting crowded. Fold the flaps down around the stems of the plants after planting.
Step 4
Water and watch the plants produce fruit. As the plants grow and produce fruit, the heavier fruit will settle down on the landscaping cloth above the ground. The cloth allows for proper water drainage and acts as a barrier to keep troublesome insects from eating the strawberries.
Step 1
Cover the area where you want to grow your strawberries using black landscaping cloth. Use a shovel to line the edges of the cloth with dirt to keep it from blowing around.
Step 2
Cut an "x" in the landscaping cloth wherever you want to plant a strawberry plant. Use a carpet knife to cut the x's. Plants should be spaced 12 inches apart.
Step 3
Plant the strawberries by opening the flaps of each of the x's and digging a small hole with a garden spade. Dig a hole deep enough and wide enough to keep the roots of the plant from getting crowded. Fold the flaps down around the stems of the plants after planting.
Step 4
Water and watch the plants produce fruit. As the plants grow and produce fruit, the heavier fruit will settle down on the landscaping cloth above the ground. The cloth allows for proper water drainage and acts as a barrier to keep troublesome insects from eating the strawberries.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
You can grow strawberries from seeds from a strawberry or from an existing plant. It's generally easier, however, to grow strawberries from plants, because you don't have to put effort into preparing the seeds and sowing them in hopes they germinate. As a result, you often have more success planting an existing plant.
Strawberry Selection
One challenge associated with growing strawberries from seeds is choosing the right strawberries. Although it might be tempting to select strawberries from a particularly great tasting batch, if they were purchased from a local farmer's market or grocery store, it's unlikely you will produce a plant with fruit of the same form and taste. Commercial growers often produce a self-pollinating variety of strawberry that was derived to ensure consistent quality fruit and reliable crop size. The downside to using this strawberry type is it might not replicate the traits of its parents in the new plant and thus the strawberries probably won't taste the same. If possible, select a strawberry from a home garden or wild strawberry patch.
Ripe vs. Unripe Strawberry
Don't plant seeds from unripe or nearly ripe strawberries, which are less likely to germinate and grow into healthy plants. Only use seeds from ripe strawberries and make certain that you plant viable seeds. Test seeds first. Viable seeds sink when placed in water; the others float.
Obtaining Seeds
Before you can plant strawberry seeds, you must separate the seeds from the pulp. Place 1 cup of water and about a pint of strawberries in your blender. Turn it on for about three to five seconds. Let the mixture stand for about one minute or so to allow time for the viable seeds to sink; the other seeds will float along with the pulp. Slowly drain the water from the blender so that only the viable seeds are left inside. Spoon out the remaining seeds, rinse and place them on a paper towel to thoroughly dry. Once dry, the seeds are ready for planting, unless you chose a variety that requires a cold treatment, such as Alpine strawberries. If a cold treatment is necessary, place the seeds, wrapped in a paper towel and then sealed in a tight-fitting container, in the freezer for two to four weeks to simulate winter conditions. Remove the seeds and let them acclimate to room temperature before planting. The process helps speed up germination for certain varieties.
Tip
Use the same care in selecting an existing plant for propagating that you would use in choosing the strawberry variety you want to plant. Base your selection on fruit quality and taste, disease resistance and production. In addition, choose an Alpine or heirloom rather than a hybrid variety if possible. Hybrid varieties produced from strawberry seeds don't always develop fruit of comparable form.
Strawberry Selection
One challenge associated with growing strawberries from seeds is choosing the right strawberries. Although it might be tempting to select strawberries from a particularly great tasting batch, if they were purchased from a local farmer's market or grocery store, it's unlikely you will produce a plant with fruit of the same form and taste. Commercial growers often produce a self-pollinating variety of strawberry that was derived to ensure consistent quality fruit and reliable crop size. The downside to using this strawberry type is it might not replicate the traits of its parents in the new plant and thus the strawberries probably won't taste the same. If possible, select a strawberry from a home garden or wild strawberry patch.
Ripe vs. Unripe Strawberry
Don't plant seeds from unripe or nearly ripe strawberries, which are less likely to germinate and grow into healthy plants. Only use seeds from ripe strawberries and make certain that you plant viable seeds. Test seeds first. Viable seeds sink when placed in water; the others float.
Obtaining Seeds
Before you can plant strawberry seeds, you must separate the seeds from the pulp. Place 1 cup of water and about a pint of strawberries in your blender. Turn it on for about three to five seconds. Let the mixture stand for about one minute or so to allow time for the viable seeds to sink; the other seeds will float along with the pulp. Slowly drain the water from the blender so that only the viable seeds are left inside. Spoon out the remaining seeds, rinse and place them on a paper towel to thoroughly dry. Once dry, the seeds are ready for planting, unless you chose a variety that requires a cold treatment, such as Alpine strawberries. If a cold treatment is necessary, place the seeds, wrapped in a paper towel and then sealed in a tight-fitting container, in the freezer for two to four weeks to simulate winter conditions. Remove the seeds and let them acclimate to room temperature before planting. The process helps speed up germination for certain varieties.
Tip
Use the same care in selecting an existing plant for propagating that you would use in choosing the strawberry variety you want to plant. Base your selection on fruit quality and taste, disease resistance and production. In addition, choose an Alpine or heirloom rather than a hybrid variety if possible. Hybrid varieties produced from strawberry seeds don't always develop fruit of comparable form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年10月25日
Climbing strawberry varieties are very similar to traditional strawberry plants, but the runners, or vines, can reach up to 40 inches in length. These strawberries grow well in the ground as well as in hanging baskets and containers. However, because of the longer vines, ground-planted climbing strawberries require a trellis to keep the fruit and foliage off of the ground.
Step 1
Wait until the early spring when freezing temperatures cease and the ground is no longer frozen. Look for a planting site that is well drained, receives six hours of sunlight per day, and has a dark soil composition. Areas that are slightly elevated are good sites for strawberries, because they aid in water drainage.
Step 2
Spread a general fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, over the planting side using 1 lb. for every 100 square feet of soil. Till the soil with a garden tiller to work the fertilizer six to eight inches into the soil
Step 3
Dig a hole in the soil that is the same depth as the roots of one for the climbing strawberry plants. Insert the roots into the hole, making sure that the area where the green stems emerge, called the crown, is above the soil. Fill in the hole but do not cover crown with soil.
Step 4
Plant additional climbing strawberry varieties in the same methods, spacing them 18 to 30 inches apart.
Step 5
Dig a 12-inch deep trench six inches behind the plants with a shovel. Insert a 4- to 5-foot tall trellis into the bottom of the trench and pack soil around the base to fill in the hole and to hold it upright. You can install a single long trellis or smaller ones for each plant.
Step 6
Water the soil to the same depth as the roots of the strawberry plants.
Step 7
Wait four to five weeks until the plant runners begin to grow. Lift the runners up to a vertical position and secure them gently to the trellis using gardener's tape. Loop the tape around the vine stems and tie in a knot behind the trellis.
Step 1
Wait until the early spring when freezing temperatures cease and the ground is no longer frozen. Look for a planting site that is well drained, receives six hours of sunlight per day, and has a dark soil composition. Areas that are slightly elevated are good sites for strawberries, because they aid in water drainage.
Step 2
Spread a general fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, over the planting side using 1 lb. for every 100 square feet of soil. Till the soil with a garden tiller to work the fertilizer six to eight inches into the soil
Step 3
Dig a hole in the soil that is the same depth as the roots of one for the climbing strawberry plants. Insert the roots into the hole, making sure that the area where the green stems emerge, called the crown, is above the soil. Fill in the hole but do not cover crown with soil.
Step 4
Plant additional climbing strawberry varieties in the same methods, spacing them 18 to 30 inches apart.
Step 5
Dig a 12-inch deep trench six inches behind the plants with a shovel. Insert a 4- to 5-foot tall trellis into the bottom of the trench and pack soil around the base to fill in the hole and to hold it upright. You can install a single long trellis or smaller ones for each plant.
Step 6
Water the soil to the same depth as the roots of the strawberry plants.
Step 7
Wait four to five weeks until the plant runners begin to grow. Lift the runners up to a vertical position and secure them gently to the trellis using gardener's tape. Loop the tape around the vine stems and tie in a knot behind the trellis.
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