文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Rudbeckia hirta, also known as Black Eyed Susan, is a versatile, heat and drought tolerant flowering plant that should be included in many landscapes. Black Eyed Susan plants grow all summer long, providing perky color and velvety foliage, requiring little care from the gardener.
As with many wildflowers, growing Black Eyed Susan plants is simple and rewarding when blooms brighten the garden, natural area or meadow. A member of the Daisy Family, Black Eyed Susans go by other names, such as Gloriosa Daisy or Brown Eyed Susan.
Black Eyed Susans may be annual, biennial or short-lived perennials. Heights of various Rudbeckia reach from a few inches to a few feet. Dwarf varieties are available. Whatever the landscape situation, most areas can benefit from the yellow petaled blooms with brown centers, which begin in late spring and last throughout the summer.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Black Eyed Susan plants are drought resistant, self-seeding and grow in a variety of soils. Growing Black Eyed Susans prefer a neutral soil pH and a full sun to light shade location.
Black Eyed Susan care will often include deadheading the spent blooms of the flower. Deadheading encourages more blooms and a sturdier, more compact plant. It also can stop or slow the spread of the Black Eyed Susan flower, as seeds are contained in the blooms. Seeds may be allowed to dry on the stem for reseeding or collected and dried in other ways for replanting in other areas. Seeds do not necessarily grow to the same height as the parent from which they were collected.
The Black Eyed Susan flower attracts butterflies, bees and other pollinators to the garden. Deer, rabbits and other wildlife may be drawn to Black Eyed Susans, which they consume or use for shelter. When planted in the garden, plant the Black Eyed Susan flower near Lavender, Rosemary or other repellent plants to keep wildlife at bay.
Remember to use some of the flowers indoors as cut flowers, where they will last a week or longer.
As with many wildflowers, growing Black Eyed Susan plants is simple and rewarding when blooms brighten the garden, natural area or meadow. A member of the Daisy Family, Black Eyed Susans go by other names, such as Gloriosa Daisy or Brown Eyed Susan.
Black Eyed Susans may be annual, biennial or short-lived perennials. Heights of various Rudbeckia reach from a few inches to a few feet. Dwarf varieties are available. Whatever the landscape situation, most areas can benefit from the yellow petaled blooms with brown centers, which begin in late spring and last throughout the summer.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Black Eyed Susan plants are drought resistant, self-seeding and grow in a variety of soils. Growing Black Eyed Susans prefer a neutral soil pH and a full sun to light shade location.
Black Eyed Susan care will often include deadheading the spent blooms of the flower. Deadheading encourages more blooms and a sturdier, more compact plant. It also can stop or slow the spread of the Black Eyed Susan flower, as seeds are contained in the blooms. Seeds may be allowed to dry on the stem for reseeding or collected and dried in other ways for replanting in other areas. Seeds do not necessarily grow to the same height as the parent from which they were collected.
The Black Eyed Susan flower attracts butterflies, bees and other pollinators to the garden. Deer, rabbits and other wildlife may be drawn to Black Eyed Susans, which they consume or use for shelter. When planted in the garden, plant the Black Eyed Susan flower near Lavender, Rosemary or other repellent plants to keep wildlife at bay.
Remember to use some of the flowers indoors as cut flowers, where they will last a week or longer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Most gardeners consider Dandelions a weed and are looking for information on how to remove it from their garden. But, once you get to know a little more about this nutritious plant, you may find yourself also wondering how to grow and harvest Dandelion plants for yourself.
While Dandelions can be a nuisance in the lawn, they are also a surprising source of nutrients. Dandelion greens contain vitamin C, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, thiamine, riboflavin, beta carotene and fiber. They are actually more nutritious than most of the fruits and vegetables you can buy in the grocery store.
It is also touted as being beneficial to your liver, kidneys, blood and digestion. Not to mention that it supposedly helps with acne, weight-loss, blood pressure and cholesterol levels. It is nearly a perfect food.
Growing Conditions and General Care
At a very basic level, you don’t need to do much to grow Dandelions. Chances are there is a whole yard full of them near where you live, perhaps even right outside your door, but it’s likely that the Dandelion plants growing in your lawn are Common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale subsp. vulgare). This is the most common variety of Dandelion, but there are thousands of varieties and cultivars to be found around the world. Common Dandelion has all the health benefits mentioned above, but they tend to be a bit more bitter than some of the other varieties of Dandelion you can buy.
Dandelions are by nature a very bitter green, but there are steps you can take to reduce how bitter it is. First, grow a less bitter variety. The right variety can make Dandelion greens taste much better than the wild variety growing in your yard.
Second, try growing Dandelions in the shade. This will blanch the leaves some and will result in a less bitter leaf. Alternately, you can manually blanch the Dandelion leaves by covering the plants a few days before you are ready to harvest.
The third thing you can do to reduce bitterness is to harvest Dandelion leaves early. Young leaves will be less bitter than more mature leaves.
You can keep your Dandelions from becoming invasive in your yard by either choosing a less invasive variety (yes, they exist) or by making sure that the plant never goes to seed and therefore cannot spread its seeds throughout the neighborhood.
Harvesting
Much like other greens, Dandelions can be harvested either as a “head” by removing the entire plant when mature (starting to flower) at harvest or as a leaf, which means that you would remove only some of the young leaves or the whole head when the plant is still young. Both ways are acceptable and which you choose will be based on your preference.
Another benefit of growing Dandelions is the fact that it is a perennial. After you harvest the plant it will grow back the same season, year after year.
Never harvest Dandelions from a location that is near a road or has been treated with pesticides or other chemicals.
While Dandelions can be a nuisance in the lawn, they are also a surprising source of nutrients. Dandelion greens contain vitamin C, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, thiamine, riboflavin, beta carotene and fiber. They are actually more nutritious than most of the fruits and vegetables you can buy in the grocery store.
It is also touted as being beneficial to your liver, kidneys, blood and digestion. Not to mention that it supposedly helps with acne, weight-loss, blood pressure and cholesterol levels. It is nearly a perfect food.
Growing Conditions and General Care
At a very basic level, you don’t need to do much to grow Dandelions. Chances are there is a whole yard full of them near where you live, perhaps even right outside your door, but it’s likely that the Dandelion plants growing in your lawn are Common Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale subsp. vulgare). This is the most common variety of Dandelion, but there are thousands of varieties and cultivars to be found around the world. Common Dandelion has all the health benefits mentioned above, but they tend to be a bit more bitter than some of the other varieties of Dandelion you can buy.
Dandelions are by nature a very bitter green, but there are steps you can take to reduce how bitter it is. First, grow a less bitter variety. The right variety can make Dandelion greens taste much better than the wild variety growing in your yard.
Second, try growing Dandelions in the shade. This will blanch the leaves some and will result in a less bitter leaf. Alternately, you can manually blanch the Dandelion leaves by covering the plants a few days before you are ready to harvest.
The third thing you can do to reduce bitterness is to harvest Dandelion leaves early. Young leaves will be less bitter than more mature leaves.
You can keep your Dandelions from becoming invasive in your yard by either choosing a less invasive variety (yes, they exist) or by making sure that the plant never goes to seed and therefore cannot spread its seeds throughout the neighborhood.
Harvesting
Much like other greens, Dandelions can be harvested either as a “head” by removing the entire plant when mature (starting to flower) at harvest or as a leaf, which means that you would remove only some of the young leaves or the whole head when the plant is still young. Both ways are acceptable and which you choose will be based on your preference.
Another benefit of growing Dandelions is the fact that it is a perennial. After you harvest the plant it will grow back the same season, year after year.
Never harvest Dandelions from a location that is near a road or has been treated with pesticides or other chemicals.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Delicate and exotic, Fritillarias may appear difficult to grow, but most Fritillaria care is simple after the large bulbs bloom. The name is derived from the Latin term for a dice-box (fritillus), and probably refers to the checkered pattern of the flowers of many species. Fritillarias are true Lilies, growing from non-tunicate bulbs. Fritillaria imperialis, also known as Crown Imperial, has the showiest flowers of the species, but some say it also has a malodorous fragrance reminiscent to that of skunk odor. These Fritillaria bulbs have nodding flowers, topped with a tuft of foliage. Another of the wildflower Fritillaria lilies is the Snakes Head, Fritillaria meleagris. This flower has a checkered or mottled pattern on the drooping blooms.
Information on the Fritillaria indicates that most are Asian or European natives; however, Fritillaria pudica is native to western North America. Information on the Fritillaria plant also describes the Chocolate Lily, Fritillaria affinis, which grows wild in southeastern Canada south to the San Francisco bay area.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Unusual and hardy, Fritillaria bulbs produce best when planted in moist soil in a sunny to part shade location in the flower bed. Wildflower Fritillaria lilies are an excellent choice for the gardener who wants an out of the ordinary specimen among more common spring-blooming bulbs.
Growing Fritillaria may reach 4 feet (1.2 m) or more in spring. Use wildflower Fritillarias as specimens, in groupings or as an addition to a traditional bulb bed.
Be prepared to plant bulbs as soon as they arrive. Plant larger bulbs with the base about 5 inches (12.5 cm) below the soil surface, while smaller Fritillaria bulbs should be planted about 3 inches (7.5 cm) down. Plant bulbs in well-drained soil and keep it moist until the root system is established.
Fritillaria bulbs resist deer, squirrels and bulb digging rodents and may help protect other bulbs that are favorites of the critters.
Wildflower Fritillarias, as with other lily bulbs, like cool roots. If possible, plant a low growing ground cover to shade bulbs of the growing Fritillaria plant or mulch the plant to protect it from the summer sun.
Separate wildflower Fritillaria lilies every two years. Remove young bulblets and replant in moist, shady conditions for more of this unusual flower every year.
Information on the Fritillaria indicates that most are Asian or European natives; however, Fritillaria pudica is native to western North America. Information on the Fritillaria plant also describes the Chocolate Lily, Fritillaria affinis, which grows wild in southeastern Canada south to the San Francisco bay area.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Unusual and hardy, Fritillaria bulbs produce best when planted in moist soil in a sunny to part shade location in the flower bed. Wildflower Fritillaria lilies are an excellent choice for the gardener who wants an out of the ordinary specimen among more common spring-blooming bulbs.
Growing Fritillaria may reach 4 feet (1.2 m) or more in spring. Use wildflower Fritillarias as specimens, in groupings or as an addition to a traditional bulb bed.
Be prepared to plant bulbs as soon as they arrive. Plant larger bulbs with the base about 5 inches (12.5 cm) below the soil surface, while smaller Fritillaria bulbs should be planted about 3 inches (7.5 cm) down. Plant bulbs in well-drained soil and keep it moist until the root system is established.
Fritillaria bulbs resist deer, squirrels and bulb digging rodents and may help protect other bulbs that are favorites of the critters.
Wildflower Fritillarias, as with other lily bulbs, like cool roots. If possible, plant a low growing ground cover to shade bulbs of the growing Fritillaria plant or mulch the plant to protect it from the summer sun.
Separate wildflower Fritillaria lilies every two years. Remove young bulblets and replant in moist, shady conditions for more of this unusual flower every year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Blooming orchids look so ethereal that it’s hard to believe you can grow them inside your home. For success, choose the right one for your conditions, then watch them flourish.
Selecting
Look beyond the pretty face when deciding which orchid to grow indoors. First, assess the growing conditions you can offer an orchid, and make your choice from there. Light, temperature, humidity, your watering tendencies, and fertilizing all play a role in growing orchids.
Light Requirements
The single most important variable when growing orchids indoors is light. Orchids that prefer high light — unobstructed sunlight, streaming through a clear, south-facing window or into a greenhouse for 6 to 8 hours — include Vandas and Angraecums.
Medium-high light orchids, such as Phragmipediums, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums, grow in locations that are bright but not directly sunny. Eastern and western exposures are often medium-high light locations, although a western exposure may be warmer. The light intensity is the same, but the air temperature has increased.
Medium-low light is appropriate for Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchids) and Paphiopedilums. It may be an east- or west-facing window with no direct sun. It may also be an open northern exposure with no obstructions and some additional reflected light.
Low light is usually a limited northern exposure or any exposure where the light is blocked by an overhang, trees, or neighboring buildings. Jewel Orchids grow in low light.
Temperature
Generally, orchids can be grouped into three temperature categories: cool, warm, and intermediate. Buy a high-low thermometer to measure the temperature range in your orchid location. After that, choosing a suitable orchid is simple. As with light, some orchids easily adapt to more than one temperature range.
Humidity
Most orchids we grow indoors come from the tropics, and most parts of the tropics are much more humid than the average living room. Orchids grow better if you can boost the humidity in their immediate growing area by grouping your plants together, or placing them on a dry well. Create a dry well by placing plastic lattice or pebbles on a tray, then adding water to just below the lattice or top of the pebbles. Place your potted plants on top of the lattice or pebbles.
Watering
Anyone who has ever watered an orchid knows that most of what you pour in runs out almost immediately through the bottom of the pot. Because orchids are potted in bark mix rather than potting soil, they need to be watered differently.
The goal is to get each mix particle to absorb as much water as possible. To give the potting mix enough time to absorb water, place the entire pot in a bowl of water for 10 to 15 minutes, then lift it out and let the excess water drain before putting the pot back in place. This technique works well for orchids potted in clay. Since clay is porous, water penetrates the walls of the pot and is absorbed by the bark.
If your orchid is potted in plastic, place it in an empty bowl, then add water. If you place the plastic pot in an already full bowl of water, the water will push the bark up and out, floating it away from the orchid roots. In this case, add water to just below the lip of the pot and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then drain and return the orchid pot to its place.
If an orchid is potted in long-grain sphagnum moss or soilless mix, you can water until water runs out into the saucer below. However, sphagnum moss may feel dry on its surface while the interior may still be moist. Stick your finger an inch or two down into the moss to feel whether it’s truly dry.
How frequently you water your orchid depends on:
The kind of orchid: Is it drought-resistant or not?
The kind of pot: Porous pots dry out faster than nonporous pots.
The kind of potting mix: Sphagnum moss needs water less frequently than bark mix.
The air temperature: Plants dry out faster in warmer temperatures.
The humidity: Plants dry out faster in drier air.
The light: Plants growing in higher light need more water.
In general, water drought-tolerant orchids, such as Cattleyas, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums once a week.
Water most others, such as Miltonias, Paphiopedilums, and Phragmipediums every 4 to 5 days. Start there, and adjust up or down according to the conditions in your home.
Water orchids thoroughly each time, then let them dry out before watering again.
Fertilizing
Most orchids are not heavy feeders. Many orchids bloom year after year with no fertilizer at all. During active growth, when new leaves are being produced, you may fertilize every other time you water at half the strength recommended on the fertilizer package. However, it’s important to deliver water without fertilizer at least once a month to flush excess fertilizer salts from the bark mix and avoid fertilizer burn to the roots.
Selecting
Look beyond the pretty face when deciding which orchid to grow indoors. First, assess the growing conditions you can offer an orchid, and make your choice from there. Light, temperature, humidity, your watering tendencies, and fertilizing all play a role in growing orchids.
Light Requirements
The single most important variable when growing orchids indoors is light. Orchids that prefer high light — unobstructed sunlight, streaming through a clear, south-facing window or into a greenhouse for 6 to 8 hours — include Vandas and Angraecums.
Medium-high light orchids, such as Phragmipediums, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums, grow in locations that are bright but not directly sunny. Eastern and western exposures are often medium-high light locations, although a western exposure may be warmer. The light intensity is the same, but the air temperature has increased.
Medium-low light is appropriate for Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchids) and Paphiopedilums. It may be an east- or west-facing window with no direct sun. It may also be an open northern exposure with no obstructions and some additional reflected light.
Low light is usually a limited northern exposure or any exposure where the light is blocked by an overhang, trees, or neighboring buildings. Jewel Orchids grow in low light.
Temperature
Generally, orchids can be grouped into three temperature categories: cool, warm, and intermediate. Buy a high-low thermometer to measure the temperature range in your orchid location. After that, choosing a suitable orchid is simple. As with light, some orchids easily adapt to more than one temperature range.
Humidity
Most orchids we grow indoors come from the tropics, and most parts of the tropics are much more humid than the average living room. Orchids grow better if you can boost the humidity in their immediate growing area by grouping your plants together, or placing them on a dry well. Create a dry well by placing plastic lattice or pebbles on a tray, then adding water to just below the lattice or top of the pebbles. Place your potted plants on top of the lattice or pebbles.
Watering
Anyone who has ever watered an orchid knows that most of what you pour in runs out almost immediately through the bottom of the pot. Because orchids are potted in bark mix rather than potting soil, they need to be watered differently.
The goal is to get each mix particle to absorb as much water as possible. To give the potting mix enough time to absorb water, place the entire pot in a bowl of water for 10 to 15 minutes, then lift it out and let the excess water drain before putting the pot back in place. This technique works well for orchids potted in clay. Since clay is porous, water penetrates the walls of the pot and is absorbed by the bark.
If your orchid is potted in plastic, place it in an empty bowl, then add water. If you place the plastic pot in an already full bowl of water, the water will push the bark up and out, floating it away from the orchid roots. In this case, add water to just below the lip of the pot and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes, then drain and return the orchid pot to its place.
If an orchid is potted in long-grain sphagnum moss or soilless mix, you can water until water runs out into the saucer below. However, sphagnum moss may feel dry on its surface while the interior may still be moist. Stick your finger an inch or two down into the moss to feel whether it’s truly dry.
How frequently you water your orchid depends on:
The kind of orchid: Is it drought-resistant or not?
The kind of pot: Porous pots dry out faster than nonporous pots.
The kind of potting mix: Sphagnum moss needs water less frequently than bark mix.
The air temperature: Plants dry out faster in warmer temperatures.
The humidity: Plants dry out faster in drier air.
The light: Plants growing in higher light need more water.
In general, water drought-tolerant orchids, such as Cattleyas, Oncidiums, and Dendrobiums once a week.
Water most others, such as Miltonias, Paphiopedilums, and Phragmipediums every 4 to 5 days. Start there, and adjust up or down according to the conditions in your home.
Water orchids thoroughly each time, then let them dry out before watering again.
Fertilizing
Most orchids are not heavy feeders. Many orchids bloom year after year with no fertilizer at all. During active growth, when new leaves are being produced, you may fertilize every other time you water at half the strength recommended on the fertilizer package. However, it’s important to deliver water without fertilizer at least once a month to flush excess fertilizer salts from the bark mix and avoid fertilizer burn to the roots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Spring is a good time to begin growing and digging, although planning can take place before the snow melts. Gardeners spend most of the summer watering, weeding, and watching young plants grow. Fall is a good time to plant trees, shrubs, bulbs, and some perennials.
1. Get an idea. Is this going to be a vegetable garden? An herb garden? A flower garden? If you choose to grow flowers, do you want annuals, which you must replant each year but which give color most of the summer? Or do you prefer perennials, which have a shorter bloom time but come back year after year? You can mix any of the above—after all, it’s your garden.
2. Pick a place. Almost all vegetables and most flowers need about six hours of full sun each day. Spend a day in your chosen spot and watch how the sun moves across the space. It might receive more sun than you think. But don’t despair if your lot is largely sunless; many plants tolerate shade. Check plant tags or ask the staff at your local garden center to find out how much sun a plant requires.
3. Clear the ground. Get rid of the sod covering the area you plan to plant. If you want quick results, you can dig it out, but it’s easier to smother it with newspaper. A layer of five sheets is usually thick enough. Spread a 3-inch (7.5 cm) layer of compost (or combination of potting soil and topsoil) on the newspaper and wait. It’ll take about four months for the compost and paper to decompose.
If you don’t want to wait or if the area is covered with weeds, you’re better off digging the sod out.
4. Improve the soil. Invariably, soil needs a boost. The solution is simple: organic matter. Add a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of compost, decayed leaves, dry grass clippings, or old manure. If you dig soil, till the organic matter into the soil. If you decide not to dig or are working with an established bed you can’t dig, leave the organic matter on the surface and it will work its way into the soil in a few months.
5. Dig or don’t. Digging loosens the soil so roots can penetrate more easily. But digging when the soil is too wet or too dry can ruin its structure. Dig only when the soil is moist enough to form a loose ball in your fist, but dry enough to fall apart when you drop it. Use a spade or spading fork to gently turn the top 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) of soil, mixing in the organic matter from Step 4. In vegetable gardens and beds of annual flowers, turn the soil only once a year in the spring before you plant.
6. Pick your plants. Some people pore over catalogs for months; some people head to the garden center and buy what wows them. Either method works if you choose plants adapted to your climate, your soil, and the amount of sunlight in your garden. You can even surf the Internet for plants to purchase. Here are a few easy-to-grow plants for beginners:
Annual: Cosmos, marigolds, Impatiens, Geraniums, Calendula, sunflowers, and Zinnias
Perennials: Russian Sage, Lamb’s Ears, Black-eyed Susans, Purple Coneflowers, Phlox, pansies, and daylilies
Vegetables: lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers
7. Put them in the ground. Some plants, such as pansies and kale, tolerate cold, so you can plant them in autumn or late winter. Tomatoes and most annual flowers, on the other hand, are touchy about cold, so don’t plant them until the danger of frost has passed in your area. Midspring and midautumn are good times to plant perennial flowers.
Some plants, such as lettuce and sunflowers, are easy to grow from seed. You can sow them directly in the garden. Be sure to read the seed packet for information about when to plant, how deep to plant, and how far apart to plant the seeds. If you’re an adventurous beginner, you can get a head start on the growing season by sowing seeds indoors before the last frost date. You can buy containers or flats designed especially for seedlings, as well as seed-starting soil mixes (available at garden centers). Follow seed-packet instructions, and place the containers on a sunny windowsill or under artificial lights if you don’t have window space. Be sure to keep the seeds and seedlings moist but not wet (or they may rot).
An easier method is to buy young plants, called set plants or transplants. Just dig a hole and plunk them in the ground.
8. Water. Seedlings should never dry out, so water daily while they are small. Taper off as the plants get larger. New transplants also need frequent watering—every other day or so—until their roots become established. After that, how often you need to water depends on your soil, how humid your climate is, and how often it rains. Plants are begging for water when they wilt slightly in the heat of the day. Water slowly and deeply, so the water soaks in instead of running off into the street. To minimize evaporation, water in the early morning.
9. Mulch. To help keep weeds out and water in, cover the soil with a couple of inches of mulch. All sorts of mulch are available, from pine needles to cocoa hulls to bark chips. For a vegetable garden or bed of annuals, choose a mulch that decomposes in a few months. For perennials, use a longer-lasting mulch, such as bark chips.
10. Keep it up. Your garden is on its way. Keep watering when needed, and pull weeds before they get big. Fertilize with a dry fertilizer about halfway through the season. If you use a liquid fertilizer, fertilize every month or so.
1. Get an idea. Is this going to be a vegetable garden? An herb garden? A flower garden? If you choose to grow flowers, do you want annuals, which you must replant each year but which give color most of the summer? Or do you prefer perennials, which have a shorter bloom time but come back year after year? You can mix any of the above—after all, it’s your garden.
2. Pick a place. Almost all vegetables and most flowers need about six hours of full sun each day. Spend a day in your chosen spot and watch how the sun moves across the space. It might receive more sun than you think. But don’t despair if your lot is largely sunless; many plants tolerate shade. Check plant tags or ask the staff at your local garden center to find out how much sun a plant requires.
3. Clear the ground. Get rid of the sod covering the area you plan to plant. If you want quick results, you can dig it out, but it’s easier to smother it with newspaper. A layer of five sheets is usually thick enough. Spread a 3-inch (7.5 cm) layer of compost (or combination of potting soil and topsoil) on the newspaper and wait. It’ll take about four months for the compost and paper to decompose.
If you don’t want to wait or if the area is covered with weeds, you’re better off digging the sod out.
4. Improve the soil. Invariably, soil needs a boost. The solution is simple: organic matter. Add a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of compost, decayed leaves, dry grass clippings, or old manure. If you dig soil, till the organic matter into the soil. If you decide not to dig or are working with an established bed you can’t dig, leave the organic matter on the surface and it will work its way into the soil in a few months.
5. Dig or don’t. Digging loosens the soil so roots can penetrate more easily. But digging when the soil is too wet or too dry can ruin its structure. Dig only when the soil is moist enough to form a loose ball in your fist, but dry enough to fall apart when you drop it. Use a spade or spading fork to gently turn the top 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) of soil, mixing in the organic matter from Step 4. In vegetable gardens and beds of annual flowers, turn the soil only once a year in the spring before you plant.
6. Pick your plants. Some people pore over catalogs for months; some people head to the garden center and buy what wows them. Either method works if you choose plants adapted to your climate, your soil, and the amount of sunlight in your garden. You can even surf the Internet for plants to purchase. Here are a few easy-to-grow plants for beginners:
Annual: Cosmos, marigolds, Impatiens, Geraniums, Calendula, sunflowers, and Zinnias
Perennials: Russian Sage, Lamb’s Ears, Black-eyed Susans, Purple Coneflowers, Phlox, pansies, and daylilies
Vegetables: lettuce, peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers
7. Put them in the ground. Some plants, such as pansies and kale, tolerate cold, so you can plant them in autumn or late winter. Tomatoes and most annual flowers, on the other hand, are touchy about cold, so don’t plant them until the danger of frost has passed in your area. Midspring and midautumn are good times to plant perennial flowers.
Some plants, such as lettuce and sunflowers, are easy to grow from seed. You can sow them directly in the garden. Be sure to read the seed packet for information about when to plant, how deep to plant, and how far apart to plant the seeds. If you’re an adventurous beginner, you can get a head start on the growing season by sowing seeds indoors before the last frost date. You can buy containers or flats designed especially for seedlings, as well as seed-starting soil mixes (available at garden centers). Follow seed-packet instructions, and place the containers on a sunny windowsill or under artificial lights if you don’t have window space. Be sure to keep the seeds and seedlings moist but not wet (or they may rot).
An easier method is to buy young plants, called set plants or transplants. Just dig a hole and plunk them in the ground.
8. Water. Seedlings should never dry out, so water daily while they are small. Taper off as the plants get larger. New transplants also need frequent watering—every other day or so—until their roots become established. After that, how often you need to water depends on your soil, how humid your climate is, and how often it rains. Plants are begging for water when they wilt slightly in the heat of the day. Water slowly and deeply, so the water soaks in instead of running off into the street. To minimize evaporation, water in the early morning.
9. Mulch. To help keep weeds out and water in, cover the soil with a couple of inches of mulch. All sorts of mulch are available, from pine needles to cocoa hulls to bark chips. For a vegetable garden or bed of annuals, choose a mulch that decomposes in a few months. For perennials, use a longer-lasting mulch, such as bark chips.
10. Keep it up. Your garden is on its way. Keep watering when needed, and pull weeds before they get big. Fertilize with a dry fertilizer about halfway through the season. If you use a liquid fertilizer, fertilize every month or so.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Vitis vinifera, also known as Grapevine is a wonderfully giving plant. Not only will it grow on a trellis or pergola to give summer shade, it bears edible fruit and its early spring leaf growth is used for culinary purposes. There is also the added beauty of the change in leaf color as they begin to drop, allowing winter sun to penetrate. Greek and Italian cooks and gardeners are used to training Grapevines, specifically for their leaves to make stuffed vine leaves or dolmades.
Getting Started
In this day and age Grapevines are propagated from cuttings rather than seeds, as they get off to a much faster start that way. Grapevines can be purchased from nurseries, either potted in spring and summer or bare-rooted in winter. You can always grow your own vine from a cutting, as they are easy to strike and grow on their own roots, rather than being grafted. In winter, at pruning time, make a cutting of a leafless stem, around 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) long, with 2 or 3 nodes. Insert each cutting into a pot filled with coarse sand or propagating mix, and these will callous up and form roots and new growth by early spring, so you can plant them out where you want them to grow.
Growing Conditions
Choose a sunny, well-drained position, and at planting time, dig in plenty of organic matter, including a good shovelful of compost. Dig the hole large enough for the roots to spread, and backfill with soil and compost, pressing around the area to get rid of air holes. Water in well and make sure, with a grafted vine, that the graft union is not below the soil – it should be at least 4 inches (10 cm) above the surface.
Grapevines need a sunny spot to grow and tolerate most soils, but are particularly suited to those with a high pH. They do not mind chalky, limey soils as long as they are well drained.
In early spring, fertilize with a complete fertilizer to establish the new vine, and repeat each year in spring and summer. Grapevines are well adapted to growing in dry conditions and a drip-irrigation system will deliver water efficiently and adequately. It is a better method than watering overhead, as this can lead to fungal problems, such as mildew on the leaves and rotting fruit.
General Care
Prune the vine hard in winter, right back to the main framework of branches, as the grapevines bear fruit on the current year’s wood. In the first year of growth you could be picking a handful or two of fruit, but by the third or fourth year it will be in full swing.
The method of pruning depends on the grape cultivar. For most Grapevine types, pruning is done by cutting everything hard back to spurs or permanent buds on the main plant framework, so new growth occurs and produces fruit.
The main problem with Grapevines is fungus attack, in particular powdery mildew, which can harm the leaves and fruit. The answer is to spray with a Bordeaux spray while the vine is dormant and just before the buds burst. Spray again later in the season if the weather becomes humid, as humidity affects the fruit production.So remember, vine leaves should always be carefully rinsed before being used in cooking. The Grapevine is a vigorous grower and will need to be trained up and over a pergola or on a wire strand, creating a wonderful outdoor setting.
Protecting
It is important to protect the fruit on the vine as it ripens. There is a bit of controversy about using nets, as native bats and birds can become entangled in them. It is also awkward to cover these vigorous growers with nets. Horticultural waxed-paper fruit bags are available with a built-in twist-tie. The waxed bags shed water away from the fruit, making them great for humid climates. There is a small gap at the bottom of the bag for drainage which does not allow fruit fly to enter or in any way affect the bag’s usefulness.
Getting Started
In this day and age Grapevines are propagated from cuttings rather than seeds, as they get off to a much faster start that way. Grapevines can be purchased from nurseries, either potted in spring and summer or bare-rooted in winter. You can always grow your own vine from a cutting, as they are easy to strike and grow on their own roots, rather than being grafted. In winter, at pruning time, make a cutting of a leafless stem, around 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) long, with 2 or 3 nodes. Insert each cutting into a pot filled with coarse sand or propagating mix, and these will callous up and form roots and new growth by early spring, so you can plant them out where you want them to grow.
Growing Conditions
Choose a sunny, well-drained position, and at planting time, dig in plenty of organic matter, including a good shovelful of compost. Dig the hole large enough for the roots to spread, and backfill with soil and compost, pressing around the area to get rid of air holes. Water in well and make sure, with a grafted vine, that the graft union is not below the soil – it should be at least 4 inches (10 cm) above the surface.
Grapevines need a sunny spot to grow and tolerate most soils, but are particularly suited to those with a high pH. They do not mind chalky, limey soils as long as they are well drained.
In early spring, fertilize with a complete fertilizer to establish the new vine, and repeat each year in spring and summer. Grapevines are well adapted to growing in dry conditions and a drip-irrigation system will deliver water efficiently and adequately. It is a better method than watering overhead, as this can lead to fungal problems, such as mildew on the leaves and rotting fruit.
General Care
Prune the vine hard in winter, right back to the main framework of branches, as the grapevines bear fruit on the current year’s wood. In the first year of growth you could be picking a handful or two of fruit, but by the third or fourth year it will be in full swing.
The method of pruning depends on the grape cultivar. For most Grapevine types, pruning is done by cutting everything hard back to spurs or permanent buds on the main plant framework, so new growth occurs and produces fruit.
The main problem with Grapevines is fungus attack, in particular powdery mildew, which can harm the leaves and fruit. The answer is to spray with a Bordeaux spray while the vine is dormant and just before the buds burst. Spray again later in the season if the weather becomes humid, as humidity affects the fruit production.So remember, vine leaves should always be carefully rinsed before being used in cooking. The Grapevine is a vigorous grower and will need to be trained up and over a pergola or on a wire strand, creating a wonderful outdoor setting.
Protecting
It is important to protect the fruit on the vine as it ripens. There is a bit of controversy about using nets, as native bats and birds can become entangled in them. It is also awkward to cover these vigorous growers with nets. Horticultural waxed-paper fruit bags are available with a built-in twist-tie. The waxed bags shed water away from the fruit, making them great for humid climates. There is a small gap at the bottom of the bag for drainage which does not allow fruit fly to enter or in any way affect the bag’s usefulness.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Tulips (genus Tulipa) and Daffodils (genus Narcissus) are often the first flowers of spring. Tulips are available for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, while daffodils grow in USDA zones 3 through 11. Most daffodils feature bright yellow tubular flowers, while tulips come in a rainbow of colors. Mixing the two bulbs in a single bed creates a colorful spring display and can increase the flowering period if you mix early-flowering daffodils with midseason or late-blooming tulips. Both flowers grow best with full, all-day sunlight and have similar care needs, making them amiable companions.
1. Spread a 2-inch (5 cm) thick layer of compost and 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of garden bed in the fall. Dig the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil with a shovel.
2. Arrange the tulip and daffodil bulbs on the soil surface. Generally, cluster 5 to 7 bulbs together, spacing the bulbs 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart within the cluster but setting clusters 12 inches (30 cm) apart. Alternate the bulbs in the cluster between tulips and daffodils so that each cluster contains both flowers for an informal look. For a more formal look, alternate clusters only containing daffodils with clusters only containing tulips.
3. Dig a planting hole for each bulb using a trowel. Make the hole deep enough that the flat bottom of the bulb is at a depth equal to about three times the bulb’s width. Set the bulbs in their holes, and fill the holes in with soil.
4. Water the bulb bed immediately after planting to help settle the soil. The tulips daffodils require no further care until growth begins in spring.
5. Resume watering when the bulbs send up shoots in spring. Provide about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly, or enough to moisten the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil, if spring rain doesn’t keep the soil moist.
6. Sprinkle 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of bed, applying the fertilizer to the soil between bulb clusters, after shoots appear. Water the fertilizer into the soil so that the roots can access the nutrients.
7. Cut off the flowers as soon as they begin to wilt. Depending on the variety, daffodils may bloom earlier than tulips, so removing the old daffodils prevents them from detracting from the tulips’ beauty. Cut back the foliage after it dies back naturally, usually about six weeks after flowering.
Tips
Most tulip and daffodil bulbs require no further maintenance after they go dormant in summer as long as winters drop below 45°F (7°C) for at least 8 weeks. If a cold-enough winter isn’t expected, dig up the bulbs after the foliage dies and store them between 40 and 45 °F (4.5 and 7 °C) to provide this cold treatment. Replant the bulbs in late winter for spring flowering.
You can apply a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of mulch to prevent weeds from invading the dormant bulb bed, if desired.
1. Spread a 2-inch (5 cm) thick layer of compost and 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of garden bed in the fall. Dig the compost and fertilizer into the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil with a shovel.
2. Arrange the tulip and daffodil bulbs on the soil surface. Generally, cluster 5 to 7 bulbs together, spacing the bulbs 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) apart within the cluster but setting clusters 12 inches (30 cm) apart. Alternate the bulbs in the cluster between tulips and daffodils so that each cluster contains both flowers for an informal look. For a more formal look, alternate clusters only containing daffodils with clusters only containing tulips.
3. Dig a planting hole for each bulb using a trowel. Make the hole deep enough that the flat bottom of the bulb is at a depth equal to about three times the bulb’s width. Set the bulbs in their holes, and fill the holes in with soil.
4. Water the bulb bed immediately after planting to help settle the soil. The tulips daffodils require no further care until growth begins in spring.
5. Resume watering when the bulbs send up shoots in spring. Provide about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water weekly, or enough to moisten the top 6 inches (15 cm) of soil, if spring rain doesn’t keep the soil moist.
6. Sprinkle 1 pound (450 g) of 10-10-10 fertilizer over every 50 square feet (4.6 square meters) of bed, applying the fertilizer to the soil between bulb clusters, after shoots appear. Water the fertilizer into the soil so that the roots can access the nutrients.
7. Cut off the flowers as soon as they begin to wilt. Depending on the variety, daffodils may bloom earlier than tulips, so removing the old daffodils prevents them from detracting from the tulips’ beauty. Cut back the foliage after it dies back naturally, usually about six weeks after flowering.
Tips
Most tulip and daffodil bulbs require no further maintenance after they go dormant in summer as long as winters drop below 45°F (7°C) for at least 8 weeks. If a cold-enough winter isn’t expected, dig up the bulbs after the foliage dies and store them between 40 and 45 °F (4.5 and 7 °C) to provide this cold treatment. Replant the bulbs in late winter for spring flowering.
You can apply a 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) layer of mulch to prevent weeds from invading the dormant bulb bed, if desired.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月27日
Did you know that you can grow orchids in your garden, in the ground? Most people think of orchids as showy, greenhouse beauties, but those plants represent only one type of orchids. Among the Orchid family, there are over 200 species that flourish in the soil. These plants are classified as terrestrial orchids and grow wild in subtropical and tropical areas of America.
Considered woodland plants, terrestrial orchids share some characteristics with their greenhouse counterparts. These plants come in many shapes and size, produce blossoms in a rainbow of colors, and are famous for filling the night air with wonderful aromas. Unlike their tropical cousins, however, these woodland flowers do not produce aerial roots or stems that climb trees and bushes. They prefer to keep their roots firmly planted in the earth.
Terrestrial orchids don’t need a lot of fertilizer, either. As a matter of fact, most of these ground-loving plants can’t handle a lot of fertilizer. Usually all that’s needed to feed these flowers is leafy compost at planting and later as the plants mature. If your soil is poor in nutrients and you must fertilize, use a very weak solution. Take the food you would normally give flowers and dilute it to one-quarter strength.
One difference between terrestrial orchids and other orchids that often surprises people is their ability to tolerate cold temperatures. Many of these species survive well in freezing temperatures, and some actually require sub-freezing conditions in order to bloom. Like tulips and other bulb plants, these orchids go dormant through the cold weather months and grow and bloom again when spring arrives.
Terrestrial orchids can be categorized into two general groups: individual growers and clumps/tuft growers.
Within the individual growers (also called solitary) there are two distinct growth habits. One group produces both their leaves and their flowers from one stem, which sprouts from an underground tuber or corm. This single stem is leafy and produces an inflorescence at its end. After the blossom is completely open and seeding is complete, these orchids drop their leaves, or become deciduous. The tubers or corms experience an annual dormant period, then continue their life cycle.
The other group of solitary growing terrestrial orchids produces a separate leaf stem and a separate flower stem. Each of these stems sprouts from a distinct bud on the rhizome. An example of this type of growth can be growth can be found in flowers among the Nervilia, Eulophia and Pachystoma genera.
Terrestrial orchids that grow erect are usually evergreen and keep their leaves for a year or more. Leafy pseudobulbs provide new growth, usually from the base, as seen in Phaius, Liparis and Acanthephippium genera.Plants among the genera of Macodes and Zeuxine provide beautiful examples of creeping Terrestrial orchids. The rhizomes of these plants are usually fleshy with long internodes. Axillary buds grow below the apex of the rhizomes and produce upright leaf and flower spikes. After flowering ends, and sometimes after the plant loses its leaves, new growth begins. The original upright spike falls and is absorbed by the rhizome.
Considered woodland plants, terrestrial orchids share some characteristics with their greenhouse counterparts. These plants come in many shapes and size, produce blossoms in a rainbow of colors, and are famous for filling the night air with wonderful aromas. Unlike their tropical cousins, however, these woodland flowers do not produce aerial roots or stems that climb trees and bushes. They prefer to keep their roots firmly planted in the earth.
Terrestrial orchids don’t need a lot of fertilizer, either. As a matter of fact, most of these ground-loving plants can’t handle a lot of fertilizer. Usually all that’s needed to feed these flowers is leafy compost at planting and later as the plants mature. If your soil is poor in nutrients and you must fertilize, use a very weak solution. Take the food you would normally give flowers and dilute it to one-quarter strength.
One difference between terrestrial orchids and other orchids that often surprises people is their ability to tolerate cold temperatures. Many of these species survive well in freezing temperatures, and some actually require sub-freezing conditions in order to bloom. Like tulips and other bulb plants, these orchids go dormant through the cold weather months and grow and bloom again when spring arrives.
Terrestrial orchids can be categorized into two general groups: individual growers and clumps/tuft growers.
Within the individual growers (also called solitary) there are two distinct growth habits. One group produces both their leaves and their flowers from one stem, which sprouts from an underground tuber or corm. This single stem is leafy and produces an inflorescence at its end. After the blossom is completely open and seeding is complete, these orchids drop their leaves, or become deciduous. The tubers or corms experience an annual dormant period, then continue their life cycle.
The other group of solitary growing terrestrial orchids produces a separate leaf stem and a separate flower stem. Each of these stems sprouts from a distinct bud on the rhizome. An example of this type of growth can be growth can be found in flowers among the Nervilia, Eulophia and Pachystoma genera.
Terrestrial orchids that grow erect are usually evergreen and keep their leaves for a year or more. Leafy pseudobulbs provide new growth, usually from the base, as seen in Phaius, Liparis and Acanthephippium genera.Plants among the genera of Macodes and Zeuxine provide beautiful examples of creeping Terrestrial orchids. The rhizomes of these plants are usually fleshy with long internodes. Axillary buds grow below the apex of the rhizomes and produce upright leaf and flower spikes. After flowering ends, and sometimes after the plant loses its leaves, new growth begins. The original upright spike falls and is absorbed by the rhizome.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
How to plant and grow peonies, one of the most carefree of all perennials
PEONIES are one of the best-known and most dearly loved perennials. This is hardly surprising considering their sumptuous beauty and fragrance, trouble-free nature and longevity. Peonies also thrive almost anywhere in the country. Many varieties can even survive a zone 2 winter (that's a low of -50 degrees F).
If a peony is well situated and happy, it may bloom for 100 years or more with little or no attention. This means it's worth spending some time up front, choosing the right planting location and preparing the soil. That said, there are many stories about forgotten peony plants found blooming in the woods against old cellar holes. But like all plants, peonies will be healthier, more vigorous and more floriferous if they have ideal growing conditions.
Peonies prefer a sunny location with well-drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant is also important. These growing conditions help peonies avoid their only serious disease problem: botrytis. Like other fungal diseases, botrytis is present in most soils. It usually only becomes a problem if the plant is weak, the weather is unusually cool and wet, or if there are other infected plants nearby. Signs of botrytis are blackened buds and stems, and sometimes rotting at the base of the plant. Cut off and dispose of any affected areas (put this material in the trash, not in your compost pile). The best strategy for botrytis problems is prevention, and that goes back to proper planting.
A special note for gardeners in the warm climates: Peonies will be more robust and their blooms will last longer if the plants receive some shade during the hottest part of the day. Peonies are an iffy prospect in warm zones, and impossible in some. To find out of they can be grown in your area, check with a good gardener in the neighborhood or your cooperative extension.
To prepare the planting hole for a bareroot peony, dig the soil to a depth of 12-18". Use a garden fork to loosen the sides of the planting hole as well. Add a shovelful of compost and a handful of an all-purpose, organic, granular fertilizer, to the bottom of the hole and then add a shovelful of the original soil. Build up a "cone" of this amended soil inside the planting hole and then position the peony root on top of the cone with its roots hanging down the sides. It is very important that the "eyes", or growth nodes, located near the base of the old stem, end up no more than 2" below the soil surface. If the peony root is positioned deeper than this, the plant may grow well, but it will produce few if any blooms. Container-grown plants can be planted similarly. Just dig a hole that's twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Amend the soil as above. When planting, make sure the soil surface in the pot is at grade when the new plant is in the ground.
Peonies rarely bloom the first year after planting. It often takes three years before you see an abundant display of flowers. But once the plants do start blooming, you can look forward to a lifetime of beautiful flowers. Peony plants rarely need dividing. If a clump becomes too large for a given space, or you wish to share some of the plant with a friend, fall is the ideal time for dividing. Cut back the foliage and carefully lift the entire plant out of the ground. Use a sharp knife to cut apart some of the plant, making sure to create generous clumps of roots with at least three to five eyes per clump. Reposition the original plant back in the hole, taking care not to break off any of the relatively brittle roots or leave large pockets of air in the planting hole. Water until you are sure the moisture has reached the bottom of the hole and that the soil has settled around the roots. Plants that have been divided in the fall may not bloom the following spring, but will return to normal the next season.
A yearly application of organic, all-purpose fertilizer and a top-dressing of compost is all a peony requires for good health. If you mulch your flower beds, be sure to keep the mulch away from the base your peonies. If the base is covered with mulch, the plant reacts as if it has been planted too deep, and will produce few, if any, flowers.
Depending on the variety and the growing conditions, you'll probably want to provide your peonies with some support when the flowers are in bloom. This is especially true for the double or "bomb"-style blossoms, which can become waterlogged and very heavy. The supports should be positioned early in the growing season, before the plants get more than a few inches high. Once the plant has filled out, and especially when it's in bloom, it is nearly impossible to set up an effective support system.
There are hundreds of peony varieties on the market today, from heirloom favorites that have been enjoyed for centuries, to exciting new colors (peach, coral, yellow), interesting flower forms (spiders, singles and semi-doubles), and different heights and bloom times. You might also want to try your hand at growing tree peonies, which bloom earlier than herbaceous peonies, have larger blossoms and can grow up to 6 feet tall.
Frequently Asked Questions
How come my peonies don't bloom?
Failure to bloom is usually caused by two things: improper planting and/or insufficient light. When planting peonies, make sure to plant the eyes (the point at which new growth emerges) no more than two inches deep. Also make sure your plants get plenty of sun — 6 or more hours a day. If they're planted in a shady site, they will not flower well — if at all.
Also note that newly planted peonies usually don't flower the first year, which is spent developing a good root system and foliage. By the second spring after planting, you should see your first blooms.
What are tree peonies?
Although tree peonies are related to regular (herbaceous) peonies, they are much larger, reaching up to 6 feet. Their form is actually more like a shrub than a tree. In colder zones, they will not grow as tall — 3 or 4 feet is typical. Plants bloom just before the regular peonies; flowers are equally fragrant.
Can peonies be divided?
Yes. Unlike most perennials, peonies rarely need to be divided. The only reason to do it is to get more plants — or share them with friends. It's best done in the fall. Dig up the clump and use a sharp tool to divide it into sections, keeping three to five eyes in each division. Be sure to water the transplants thoroughly, unless you get plenty of rainfall. Keep in mind that divisions (and transplants) might not begin blooming again for two or three years.
Ants are crawling all over my peony buds. Are they going to eat the flowers?
No. These insects are merely enjoying the sugary syrup produced by the buds and are doing no harm to the plant.
The foliage on my peony has blackened and wilted. What can I do?
Peonies suffer from very few pest and disease problems. Nevertheless, they sometimes get fungal diseases, such as botrytis blight, which you describe. Other similar problems include blackened and/or rotten stems, withered buds, gray mold near the base of the plant. In all cases, remove and destroy the infected plant parts. Make sure the plants aren't getting overwatered; avoid sites with poorly drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant will also minimize fungal problems. Powdery mildew can be a problem near the foundation of a house, where there is lots of roof runoff and splashing. Consider moving the plant to another location if you see powdery mildew every year. To prevent problems, do a thorough clean-up after fall frosts. Cut the stems to 3" from the ground and clear away the foliage.
We recently moved to Florida and want to grow peonies like we did in Connecticut. Is there a way we can do it?
Unfortunately, you cannot grow peonies successfully in Florida, southern California and most of the deep south. Zone 8 is the warmest zone for peonies. And if you're growing them in zone 8, it's wise to check locally to see which varieties are known to thrive.
My peonies are gorgeous, but when it rains, the flowers bend to the ground. How can I prevent this?
The best solution is a grow-through support, which helps keep the top-heavy blooms upright. Ring supports will also work, but they aren't quite as "invisible" as the grids. Be sure to put the grids in place in early spring — before the plants are more than a few inches tall.
PEONIES are one of the best-known and most dearly loved perennials. This is hardly surprising considering their sumptuous beauty and fragrance, trouble-free nature and longevity. Peonies also thrive almost anywhere in the country. Many varieties can even survive a zone 2 winter (that's a low of -50 degrees F).
If a peony is well situated and happy, it may bloom for 100 years or more with little or no attention. This means it's worth spending some time up front, choosing the right planting location and preparing the soil. That said, there are many stories about forgotten peony plants found blooming in the woods against old cellar holes. But like all plants, peonies will be healthier, more vigorous and more floriferous if they have ideal growing conditions.
Peonies prefer a sunny location with well-drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant is also important. These growing conditions help peonies avoid their only serious disease problem: botrytis. Like other fungal diseases, botrytis is present in most soils. It usually only becomes a problem if the plant is weak, the weather is unusually cool and wet, or if there are other infected plants nearby. Signs of botrytis are blackened buds and stems, and sometimes rotting at the base of the plant. Cut off and dispose of any affected areas (put this material in the trash, not in your compost pile). The best strategy for botrytis problems is prevention, and that goes back to proper planting.
A special note for gardeners in the warm climates: Peonies will be more robust and their blooms will last longer if the plants receive some shade during the hottest part of the day. Peonies are an iffy prospect in warm zones, and impossible in some. To find out of they can be grown in your area, check with a good gardener in the neighborhood or your cooperative extension.
To prepare the planting hole for a bareroot peony, dig the soil to a depth of 12-18". Use a garden fork to loosen the sides of the planting hole as well. Add a shovelful of compost and a handful of an all-purpose, organic, granular fertilizer, to the bottom of the hole and then add a shovelful of the original soil. Build up a "cone" of this amended soil inside the planting hole and then position the peony root on top of the cone with its roots hanging down the sides. It is very important that the "eyes", or growth nodes, located near the base of the old stem, end up no more than 2" below the soil surface. If the peony root is positioned deeper than this, the plant may grow well, but it will produce few if any blooms. Container-grown plants can be planted similarly. Just dig a hole that's twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Amend the soil as above. When planting, make sure the soil surface in the pot is at grade when the new plant is in the ground.
Peonies rarely bloom the first year after planting. It often takes three years before you see an abundant display of flowers. But once the plants do start blooming, you can look forward to a lifetime of beautiful flowers. Peony plants rarely need dividing. If a clump becomes too large for a given space, or you wish to share some of the plant with a friend, fall is the ideal time for dividing. Cut back the foliage and carefully lift the entire plant out of the ground. Use a sharp knife to cut apart some of the plant, making sure to create generous clumps of roots with at least three to five eyes per clump. Reposition the original plant back in the hole, taking care not to break off any of the relatively brittle roots or leave large pockets of air in the planting hole. Water until you are sure the moisture has reached the bottom of the hole and that the soil has settled around the roots. Plants that have been divided in the fall may not bloom the following spring, but will return to normal the next season.
A yearly application of organic, all-purpose fertilizer and a top-dressing of compost is all a peony requires for good health. If you mulch your flower beds, be sure to keep the mulch away from the base your peonies. If the base is covered with mulch, the plant reacts as if it has been planted too deep, and will produce few, if any, flowers.
Depending on the variety and the growing conditions, you'll probably want to provide your peonies with some support when the flowers are in bloom. This is especially true for the double or "bomb"-style blossoms, which can become waterlogged and very heavy. The supports should be positioned early in the growing season, before the plants get more than a few inches high. Once the plant has filled out, and especially when it's in bloom, it is nearly impossible to set up an effective support system.
There are hundreds of peony varieties on the market today, from heirloom favorites that have been enjoyed for centuries, to exciting new colors (peach, coral, yellow), interesting flower forms (spiders, singles and semi-doubles), and different heights and bloom times. You might also want to try your hand at growing tree peonies, which bloom earlier than herbaceous peonies, have larger blossoms and can grow up to 6 feet tall.
Frequently Asked Questions
How come my peonies don't bloom?
Failure to bloom is usually caused by two things: improper planting and/or insufficient light. When planting peonies, make sure to plant the eyes (the point at which new growth emerges) no more than two inches deep. Also make sure your plants get plenty of sun — 6 or more hours a day. If they're planted in a shady site, they will not flower well — if at all.
Also note that newly planted peonies usually don't flower the first year, which is spent developing a good root system and foliage. By the second spring after planting, you should see your first blooms.
What are tree peonies?
Although tree peonies are related to regular (herbaceous) peonies, they are much larger, reaching up to 6 feet. Their form is actually more like a shrub than a tree. In colder zones, they will not grow as tall — 3 or 4 feet is typical. Plants bloom just before the regular peonies; flowers are equally fragrant.
Can peonies be divided?
Yes. Unlike most perennials, peonies rarely need to be divided. The only reason to do it is to get more plants — or share them with friends. It's best done in the fall. Dig up the clump and use a sharp tool to divide it into sections, keeping three to five eyes in each division. Be sure to water the transplants thoroughly, unless you get plenty of rainfall. Keep in mind that divisions (and transplants) might not begin blooming again for two or three years.
Ants are crawling all over my peony buds. Are they going to eat the flowers?
No. These insects are merely enjoying the sugary syrup produced by the buds and are doing no harm to the plant.
The foliage on my peony has blackened and wilted. What can I do?
Peonies suffer from very few pest and disease problems. Nevertheless, they sometimes get fungal diseases, such as botrytis blight, which you describe. Other similar problems include blackened and/or rotten stems, withered buds, gray mold near the base of the plant. In all cases, remove and destroy the infected plant parts. Make sure the plants aren't getting overwatered; avoid sites with poorly drained soil. Good air circulation around the plant will also minimize fungal problems. Powdery mildew can be a problem near the foundation of a house, where there is lots of roof runoff and splashing. Consider moving the plant to another location if you see powdery mildew every year. To prevent problems, do a thorough clean-up after fall frosts. Cut the stems to 3" from the ground and clear away the foliage.
We recently moved to Florida and want to grow peonies like we did in Connecticut. Is there a way we can do it?
Unfortunately, you cannot grow peonies successfully in Florida, southern California and most of the deep south. Zone 8 is the warmest zone for peonies. And if you're growing them in zone 8, it's wise to check locally to see which varieties are known to thrive.
My peonies are gorgeous, but when it rains, the flowers bend to the ground. How can I prevent this?
The best solution is a grow-through support, which helps keep the top-heavy blooms upright. Ring supports will also work, but they aren't quite as "invisible" as the grids. Be sure to put the grids in place in early spring — before the plants are more than a few inches tall.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
FEW bulbs are easier to grow than amaryllis — and few bloom with greater exuberance and beauty. Just plant the bulb in good potting soil. A support stake is handy for keeping the blooms upright, but little else is required: water regularly and provide bright, indirect light. Blooms will appear four to six weeks 
after planting
If your amaryllis is not already potted, plant each amaryllis bulb in a heavy, 6-8" pot. Lightweight pots may tip over. Plant the bulb, pointed-end-up, in potting soil. Do not use soil from the garden because it will not drain properly. Pack the soil gently around the bulb so approximately one-third of the bulb remains above the soil line.
Place the pot in a sunny location and water sparingly until you see about 2" of new growth. From then on, water regularly. As the plant grows, turn the pot periodically to encourage the stalk to grow straight. Within five to eight weeks, you will have an exciting and dramatic floral display. To prolong the blooms, keep the pot out of direct sunlight.
For Bloom Next Year
Amaryllis can be encouraged to blossom again the following year. It takes a little planning and extra care, but is quite simple and very rewarding. After the flowers have faded, cut the flower stalk to within 1" of the top of the bulb. Continue to water and feed the plant regularly with a liquid houseplant fertilizer. Amaryllis will grow a number of leaves during the spring and summer. This will help the plant produce energy for the following year's bloom. In mid-August, begin withholding water and let the foliage die back naturally as the pot dries out completely.
Store the dormant bulb in a cool, dark and dry place for a minimum of eight weeks. About five to eight weeks before you want the amaryllis to flower again, repot the bulb in fresh potting soil and resume watering — sparingly at first. Once you see new growth, increase watering. You can expect another dramatic floral display within five to eight weeks. By following these basic care guidelines, you will be able to encourage your amaryllis to flower year after year.
after planting
If your amaryllis is not already potted, plant each amaryllis bulb in a heavy, 6-8" pot. Lightweight pots may tip over. Plant the bulb, pointed-end-up, in potting soil. Do not use soil from the garden because it will not drain properly. Pack the soil gently around the bulb so approximately one-third of the bulb remains above the soil line.
Place the pot in a sunny location and water sparingly until you see about 2" of new growth. From then on, water regularly. As the plant grows, turn the pot periodically to encourage the stalk to grow straight. Within five to eight weeks, you will have an exciting and dramatic floral display. To prolong the blooms, keep the pot out of direct sunlight.
For Bloom Next Year
Amaryllis can be encouraged to blossom again the following year. It takes a little planning and extra care, but is quite simple and very rewarding. After the flowers have faded, cut the flower stalk to within 1" of the top of the bulb. Continue to water and feed the plant regularly with a liquid houseplant fertilizer. Amaryllis will grow a number of leaves during the spring and summer. This will help the plant produce energy for the following year's bloom. In mid-August, begin withholding water and let the foliage die back naturally as the pot dries out completely.
Store the dormant bulb in a cool, dark and dry place for a minimum of eight weeks. About five to eight weeks before you want the amaryllis to flower again, repot the bulb in fresh potting soil and resume watering — sparingly at first. Once you see new growth, increase watering. You can expect another dramatic floral display within five to eight weeks. By following these basic care guidelines, you will be able to encourage your amaryllis to flower year after year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
IF you want to grow flowers from seed, start with sweet peas. The large seeds are easy to manage and most varieties germinate readily. Plus, the resulting blooms are gorgeous and sweetly scented.
Pick a range of varieties
Sweet peas come in a huge array of colors and patterns. Most will grow to 5 or 6 feet, but there are shorter varieties "bush type" that are well-suited to containers. To extend the blooming season, choose a few different types. Read the seed packets to find varieties that bloom early (“short-day”) and late (“long day”). Although most sweet peas are annuals, you can also get perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolia).
Start early
Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) thrive in cool temperatures, so it's important to get them blooming early, before summer heat knocks them out. You can plant them outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. Chances are it will still be quite cold, but the seeds will be fine. Gardeners in the south can start sweet peas in late fall for bloom in late winter or early spring. Check with your cooperative extension for best practice in your area.
To ensure the longest-possible season of bloom, start your peas indoors. Timing is based on the last frost date in your area. Once you have that date, back it up four to six weeks. That's when you plant. For instance, if your last frost date is May 15, you should plant in early to mid-April. Don't know the last frost date in your area? Check with your cooperative extension, or a good gardener in the neighborhood.
Prepare the seed
Whether you're planting indoors or out, it's a good idea to break or soften the hard seed coat before planting. You can do this by soaking the seeds overnight in water or nicking the brown coating with a nail clippers or a piece of sandpaper.
If you start your seeds indoors, use biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots, homemade Paper Pots or peat pots. The seedlings resent root disturbance, so it's best to have a pot that can go in the ground right along with your transplants.
Provide a trellis
Plant the vines about 6″ apart in a sunny location, ideally with protection from intense, afternoon sun. Unless you've selected a bush-type, your peas will need strings or a trellis of some kind. Peas use tendrils to climb. They can grasp anything that's a quarter-inch or less. Anything bigger won't work. The best support is string, twine, or netting with a grid that's at least 2″ x 2″ . Netting with smaller openings — ½″ or 1″ — will not work well. Trellis netting, such as Nearly Invisible Netting or Biodegradable Netting, is ideal.
Mulch the soil surface to help keep the roots cool. Water if rainfall is insufficient and fertilize every 15 days or so with liquid fertilizer.
Pick frequently
To keep your vine productive, cut flowers frequently and remove the faded blossoms. Once summer heat arrives, your vine might turn brown and die, which is normal. At that point, you can pull it out and replant with something else. Some varieties tolerate heat better than others, such as Starry Night and Cupani's Original, so check your seed packets.
Pick a range of varieties
Sweet peas come in a huge array of colors and patterns. Most will grow to 5 or 6 feet, but there are shorter varieties "bush type" that are well-suited to containers. To extend the blooming season, choose a few different types. Read the seed packets to find varieties that bloom early (“short-day”) and late (“long day”). Although most sweet peas are annuals, you can also get perennial sweet peas (Lathyrus latifolia).
Start early
Sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) thrive in cool temperatures, so it's important to get them blooming early, before summer heat knocks them out. You can plant them outdoors as soon as the soil can be worked in spring. Chances are it will still be quite cold, but the seeds will be fine. Gardeners in the south can start sweet peas in late fall for bloom in late winter or early spring. Check with your cooperative extension for best practice in your area.
To ensure the longest-possible season of bloom, start your peas indoors. Timing is based on the last frost date in your area. Once you have that date, back it up four to six weeks. That's when you plant. For instance, if your last frost date is May 15, you should plant in early to mid-April. Don't know the last frost date in your area? Check with your cooperative extension, or a good gardener in the neighborhood.
Prepare the seed
Whether you're planting indoors or out, it's a good idea to break or soften the hard seed coat before planting. You can do this by soaking the seeds overnight in water or nicking the brown coating with a nail clippers or a piece of sandpaper.
If you start your seeds indoors, use biodegradable pots, such as Cowpots, homemade Paper Pots or peat pots. The seedlings resent root disturbance, so it's best to have a pot that can go in the ground right along with your transplants.
Provide a trellis
Plant the vines about 6″ apart in a sunny location, ideally with protection from intense, afternoon sun. Unless you've selected a bush-type, your peas will need strings or a trellis of some kind. Peas use tendrils to climb. They can grasp anything that's a quarter-inch or less. Anything bigger won't work. The best support is string, twine, or netting with a grid that's at least 2″ x 2″ . Netting with smaller openings — ½″ or 1″ — will not work well. Trellis netting, such as Nearly Invisible Netting or Biodegradable Netting, is ideal.
Mulch the soil surface to help keep the roots cool. Water if rainfall is insufficient and fertilize every 15 days or so with liquid fertilizer.
Pick frequently
To keep your vine productive, cut flowers frequently and remove the faded blossoms. Once summer heat arrives, your vine might turn brown and die, which is normal. At that point, you can pull it out and replant with something else. Some varieties tolerate heat better than others, such as Starry Night and Cupani's Original, so check your seed packets.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月24日
WHEN it comes to orchids, phalaenopsis (moth orchids) are among the easiest to grow. Blooms last for several months and you can get them to rebloom without a lot of effort. Well, some folks can. I haven't had good luck getting another bloom, and I have the shelf of non-blooming phalaenopsis to prove it. Frankly, I'm a little bit embarrassed. How do I get my orchids to bloom again?
In an effort to improve my success, I checked in with our orchid expert at Gardener's Supply, Anita Nadeau. She helps customers in the conservatory at our Williston, VT, store. Here are her tips for getting phalaenopsis to rebloom:
Pay attention to watering and humidity. If you neglect your phalaenopsis, it will not reward you with blooms. The plants are probably growing in a free-draining blend of fir bark, so you need to water regularly. Don't let the roots dry out completely between waterings. Most homes are quite dry during the winter, but you can increase the humidity by setting the orchid pots on a tray of pebbles or a special humidity grid. Make sure the pots are not sitting in the water; they should be just above it.
Fertilize regularly. A fertilizing routine is just as important as a watering routine. Anita recommends feeding orchids with water-soluble fertilizer that's formulated for orchids. Mix at the rate recommended on the package.
Make sure plants get enough light—but not too much. Anita says, "When a healthy orchid does not flower, it is usually due to not enough light." Phalaenopsis thrive in bright light, but not direct sun. This means east- or west-facing windows are best. If you can't provide adequate natural light, orchids will also thrive under full-spectrum lights.+
Provide cool nights. Most orchids thrive best when there is a marked drop in temperature at night, usually about 10 to 15 degrees F. Phalaenopsis are more forgiving in this respect, but a reluctant plant can usually be coaxed into bloom more easily if it's grown where nights are cool.
In an effort to improve my success, I checked in with our orchid expert at Gardener's Supply, Anita Nadeau. She helps customers in the conservatory at our Williston, VT, store. Here are her tips for getting phalaenopsis to rebloom:
Pay attention to watering and humidity. If you neglect your phalaenopsis, it will not reward you with blooms. The plants are probably growing in a free-draining blend of fir bark, so you need to water regularly. Don't let the roots dry out completely between waterings. Most homes are quite dry during the winter, but you can increase the humidity by setting the orchid pots on a tray of pebbles or a special humidity grid. Make sure the pots are not sitting in the water; they should be just above it.
Fertilize regularly. A fertilizing routine is just as important as a watering routine. Anita recommends feeding orchids with water-soluble fertilizer that's formulated for orchids. Mix at the rate recommended on the package.
Make sure plants get enough light—but not too much. Anita says, "When a healthy orchid does not flower, it is usually due to not enough light." Phalaenopsis thrive in bright light, but not direct sun. This means east- or west-facing windows are best. If you can't provide adequate natural light, orchids will also thrive under full-spectrum lights.+
Provide cool nights. Most orchids thrive best when there is a marked drop in temperature at night, usually about 10 to 15 degrees F. Phalaenopsis are more forgiving in this respect, but a reluctant plant can usually be coaxed into bloom more easily if it's grown where nights are cool.
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成长记
cclecombe
2017年09月23日
Gave our ZZ a wipe over as he was looking pretty dusty. Lets hope he can catch more light now so he can grow big and strong! 💪🏻🌿
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Many gardeners have had trouble with nematodes attacking their plants. Maybe you’ve tried to grow carrots, but they came out knobby and twisted. Or maybe your potatoes were covered in warts and galls. If so, your garden may have a nematode problem. Read on to learn more about controlling nematodes with plants.
Using Plants for Nematode Control
Nematodes are tiny round worms that commonly live in soil, and many of them attack garden plants. These pests can damage the roots of numerous edible and ornamental plants, so many gardeners have looked for ways to control them. If you are one of those gardeners, you may have wondered: are there any plants that repel nematodes?
Some nematodes can be controlled using nematode-killing pesticides (nematicides), but these can be toxic and most are unavailable to home gardeners. Crop rotation can also reduce nematode infestations, but it is time consuming. Fortunately, scientists have identified a list of nematode repellent plants that can help combat these earth-dwelling pests. These include: Painted Daisy – kills nematodes when used as a green manure French Marigold – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Dahlia – repels nematodes Castor Bean – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Partridge Pea – reduces populations of peanut root knot nematode Rapeseed – certain varieties kill nematodes when used as a green manure Showy Crotalaria – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Velvet Bean – may repel several types of nematodes Controlling nematodes with plants is an effective, natural method and is definitely worth a try.
How to Use Nematode Repellent Plants
Of the list above, two of the best plants for nematode control are the painted daisy and French marigold. Both of these are not just nematode repellent plants, but they actually kill nematodes more efficiently. Painted daisy (Chrysanthemum coccineum) is useful for warding off nematode problems because it produces a botanical toxin that kills root nematodes. French marigold (Tagetes patula) produces a natural chemical that kills several types of nematodes, including the root-knot nematodes that attack carrots and many other vegetable plants. Scientists have found that Tangerine, a dwarf French marigold variety, is especially effective at combating nematodes in garden soil. The following varieties of French marigold are also effective: Bolero Bonita Mixed Goldie Gypsy Sunshine Petite Petite Harmony Petite Gold Scarlet Sophie Single Gold
If you have a nematode infestation, remove as many plant roots as possible when you clean up your garden in the fall. In winter and early spring, till and solarize the soil to reduce nematode populations.
In spring, plant one of one of the recommended varieties of French marigold (or another of the plants that repel nematodes) in solid patches or strips in the garden. Space the plants at seven inches apart. Let them grow for at least two months, then till the plants into the soil. Be sure to till the plants in or remove the flower heads of marigolds before they go to seed. Otherwise, they could become a weed in next year’s garden. To prevent nematodes from returning to the garden, keep the soil free of weeds until the next spring.
Using Plants for Nematode Control
Nematodes are tiny round worms that commonly live in soil, and many of them attack garden plants. These pests can damage the roots of numerous edible and ornamental plants, so many gardeners have looked for ways to control them. If you are one of those gardeners, you may have wondered: are there any plants that repel nematodes?
Some nematodes can be controlled using nematode-killing pesticides (nematicides), but these can be toxic and most are unavailable to home gardeners. Crop rotation can also reduce nematode infestations, but it is time consuming. Fortunately, scientists have identified a list of nematode repellent plants that can help combat these earth-dwelling pests. These include: Painted Daisy – kills nematodes when used as a green manure French Marigold – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Dahlia – repels nematodes Castor Bean – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Partridge Pea – reduces populations of peanut root knot nematode Rapeseed – certain varieties kill nematodes when used as a green manure Showy Crotalaria – kills nematodes when used as a green manure Velvet Bean – may repel several types of nematodes Controlling nematodes with plants is an effective, natural method and is definitely worth a try.
How to Use Nematode Repellent Plants
Of the list above, two of the best plants for nematode control are the painted daisy and French marigold. Both of these are not just nematode repellent plants, but they actually kill nematodes more efficiently. Painted daisy (Chrysanthemum coccineum) is useful for warding off nematode problems because it produces a botanical toxin that kills root nematodes. French marigold (Tagetes patula) produces a natural chemical that kills several types of nematodes, including the root-knot nematodes that attack carrots and many other vegetable plants. Scientists have found that Tangerine, a dwarf French marigold variety, is especially effective at combating nematodes in garden soil. The following varieties of French marigold are also effective: Bolero Bonita Mixed Goldie Gypsy Sunshine Petite Petite Harmony Petite Gold Scarlet Sophie Single Gold
If you have a nematode infestation, remove as many plant roots as possible when you clean up your garden in the fall. In winter and early spring, till and solarize the soil to reduce nematode populations.
In spring, plant one of one of the recommended varieties of French marigold (or another of the plants that repel nematodes) in solid patches or strips in the garden. Space the plants at seven inches apart. Let them grow for at least two months, then till the plants into the soil. Be sure to till the plants in or remove the flower heads of marigolds before they go to seed. Otherwise, they could become a weed in next year’s garden. To prevent nematodes from returning to the garden, keep the soil free of weeds until the next spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月23日
Cotyledon orbiculata, also known as Pig’s Ear Plant, sometimes grow in an expansive pattern, which can impede on other plants. While they don’t take up too much water, they can still steal sunlight and root space for your other flora in your arid garden. You may just want to divide your Pig’s Ear because you want to have more of them. Either way, with the right tools and environment, you can get clippings to grow so you can have multiple Cotyledons in your possession.
Step 1 – Divide Cutting
When you divide a Cotyledon, you’re simply taking a branch off. Succulents don’t like metal cutting them. It’s best to snap your cutting off of the plant with your own two fingers. This minimizes the wound in the succulent branch, which should be firm, but slightly spongy when you pinch it. It would be like pinching an artery to slow the flow of blood; so it is with the sap in your Pig’s Ear stems. Make sure you wash your hands! You don’t want to cause infection to your plant because of some dirt on your fingers.
Find the appropriate stem, which should have at least 2 inches (5 cm) of stem length and at least 1 or 2 nodes of leaves on it. Pinch it, and break it off.
Step 2 – Get it to Root
Now you have to get your cutting to root. First, dip your cutting stem-end first in rooting hormone, enough to coat the part that was broken off of the plant.
Next, wet your paper towel sheets (about 3 of them) in your warm water, and wring out some of the water—you want them just one step above damp. You don’t want them to be wet enough to cause rot.
Wrap your paper towel around the stem and lay it on a plate, but try to keep the leaves dry. Put it in a warm, sunny spot, keep the paper towel clean and change it out as necessary, repeating the wetting and wrapping process whenever you change the paper towel. Keep the paper towel damp, keep your cutting in the sun as much as possible, and in about 3 to 4 weeks, you should have a rooted cutting.
Step 3 – Plant Cotyledon
Now all you have to do is pot or plant your Cotyledon orbiculata. Do this by putting it in very well drained soil, which is made from cactus mix with a handful of pea gravel. Mix the two together, and make a well in the center using 2 or 3 of your fingers. You only want the hole as deep as the root is long, no longer. Gently place the rooted Pig’s Ear plant into the hole, and pat the soil around it. Mist the soil with a little water, keeping it sparing, and if you want to fertilize the soil, you can use an organic cactus-mix compost to do that. Just follow the directions on the package.
Step 4 – Take Care
You’re finished with the planting part, but that’s only half the story. You have to take care of it and ensure it grows into a healthy adult plant. Water it sparingly now, maybe once a week with a misting bottle right around the base of the plant. Keep your Cotyledon in full sun, or at least partial sun, and it should flourish for you with no problem.
That’s it, you’re done. You’ve got a brand new plant exactly like the parent plant, and you can put it in any sunny spot you please.
Step 1 – Divide Cutting
When you divide a Cotyledon, you’re simply taking a branch off. Succulents don’t like metal cutting them. It’s best to snap your cutting off of the plant with your own two fingers. This minimizes the wound in the succulent branch, which should be firm, but slightly spongy when you pinch it. It would be like pinching an artery to slow the flow of blood; so it is with the sap in your Pig’s Ear stems. Make sure you wash your hands! You don’t want to cause infection to your plant because of some dirt on your fingers.
Find the appropriate stem, which should have at least 2 inches (5 cm) of stem length and at least 1 or 2 nodes of leaves on it. Pinch it, and break it off.
Step 2 – Get it to Root
Now you have to get your cutting to root. First, dip your cutting stem-end first in rooting hormone, enough to coat the part that was broken off of the plant.
Next, wet your paper towel sheets (about 3 of them) in your warm water, and wring out some of the water—you want them just one step above damp. You don’t want them to be wet enough to cause rot.
Wrap your paper towel around the stem and lay it on a plate, but try to keep the leaves dry. Put it in a warm, sunny spot, keep the paper towel clean and change it out as necessary, repeating the wetting and wrapping process whenever you change the paper towel. Keep the paper towel damp, keep your cutting in the sun as much as possible, and in about 3 to 4 weeks, you should have a rooted cutting.
Step 3 – Plant Cotyledon
Now all you have to do is pot or plant your Cotyledon orbiculata. Do this by putting it in very well drained soil, which is made from cactus mix with a handful of pea gravel. Mix the two together, and make a well in the center using 2 or 3 of your fingers. You only want the hole as deep as the root is long, no longer. Gently place the rooted Pig’s Ear plant into the hole, and pat the soil around it. Mist the soil with a little water, keeping it sparing, and if you want to fertilize the soil, you can use an organic cactus-mix compost to do that. Just follow the directions on the package.
Step 4 – Take Care
You’re finished with the planting part, but that’s only half the story. You have to take care of it and ensure it grows into a healthy adult plant. Water it sparingly now, maybe once a week with a misting bottle right around the base of the plant. Keep your Cotyledon in full sun, or at least partial sun, and it should flourish for you with no problem.
That’s it, you’re done. You’ve got a brand new plant exactly like the parent plant, and you can put it in any sunny spot you please.
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