文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
There are two excellent reasons to grow Abutilon species: the flowers or the blooms. In general, the plants feature deeply lobed leaves reminiscent of maple leaves, although these loose-growing shrubs are in no way related to maple trees. Variegated species are grown for their striking, exotic looking leaves, while flowering species have solid green leaves and lovely, pendant flowers in a variety of colors. Although these aren’t the most common houseplants around, extensive work has been done with a handful of species to produce a variety of beautiful cultivars that are prized for their leaf shape and flower color. In terms of culture, these are not particularly difficult plants to grow and prefer a cooler winter room with less water, then warmth and adequate moisture in the summer. For best results, prune the plants to encourage bushiness.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
Growing Conditions
Light: Ideally, Abutilon should receive a few hours of direct sunlight, making an east-facing window the perfect situation throughout the summer. In the winter, you can safely reduce light, but the shortening light cycle will probably be adequate so you don’t need to move the plant.
Water: During the summer growth period, let the soil dry to 1 inch (2.5 cm) between waterings, then give adequate water until it runs through the pot. In the winter, reduce the watering to monthly. It also helps to mist plants weekly or so throughout the winter to prevent pest infections.
Soil: A rich, peat-based potting soil with excellent drainage is beneficial.
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid fertilizer throughout the growing season. Reduce or stop fertilizer entirely in the winter.
Repotting
Abutilon is a relatively fast-growing plant, especially when they’re young. Consequently, younger plants might need to be repotted twice a year, once at the beginning of the growing season and once in the middle. Older plants, however, benefit from being slightly pot-bound, so should be repotted either every other year or yearly into only slightly larger pots. Pot-bound plants tend to grow more vigorously and bloom better.
Propagation
Abutilon propagates easily from stem-tip cuttings. Some experts recommend taking new cuttings every three years or so to start new stock and disposing of older plants. However, with proper pruning, there’s no reason you can’t keep an Abutilon houseplant thriving for many years. A rooting hormone will increase your chances of success. Take cuttings in the spring and place in seed-starting soil in a warm, bright room.
Grower’s Tips
Abutilon is not an especially difficult plant to grow. During warmer, dry winters, they are sometimes affected by spider mites, and they are known for leggy growth. To encourage bushy growth, prune the plant by 25 percent to 40 percent in the late winter, right when new growth is about to start. Also, throughout the summer, occasionally pinch off new growth to encourage healthy growth. When pruning, make sure to stagger your cuts and remove some large branches to open the plant’s canopy. As a final note, these plants dislike acidic soil, so it is not necessary to add additional lime to your potting mix. Instead, stick with the basic peat-based potting soil and make sure to refresh it as the mixture decomposes and becomes more acidic over time.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
There are over 2,000 species of Psychotria, the genus under which Hot Lips falls. Where does Hot lips Grow? Psychotria elata is part of the tropical rainforest understory flora of the Americas. It is a unique plant with uninteresting flowers but fabulous lip-like bracts. The plant can be difficult to grow and has very special cultivation conditions.
Hot Lips grows as a shrub or small tree. The plant has deeply veined simple leaves of matte green. The flower is actually a pair of modified leaves that pout around the tiny star-like white to cream flowers. These become small bluish-black berries. The plant is very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the plant is severely threatened due to habitat destruction and development. It is nearly impossible to get the plant or seeds. It is a common gift plant in Central America, however, usually for Valentine’s Day.
Hot Lips plant is also called Hooker’s Lips but Hot Lips is a little more family friendly. Interestingly, this plant contains the chemical dimethyltryptamine, a psychedelic. It is also used as traditional medicine among the Amazon people to treat aches and arthritis, infertility and impotency.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Hot Lips plant is from Central and South America, especially in areas like Columbia, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Panama. It grows where the soil is rich and humid from leaf litter, moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees.
Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot Lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States. Growing Hot Lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays.
Growing Hot Lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant.
Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70ºF (21ºC), humidity of at least 60% and indirect bright lighting.
Hot Lips grows as a shrub or small tree. The plant has deeply veined simple leaves of matte green. The flower is actually a pair of modified leaves that pout around the tiny star-like white to cream flowers. These become small bluish-black berries. The plant is very attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds. Unfortunately, the plant is severely threatened due to habitat destruction and development. It is nearly impossible to get the plant or seeds. It is a common gift plant in Central America, however, usually for Valentine’s Day.
Hot Lips plant is also called Hooker’s Lips but Hot Lips is a little more family friendly. Interestingly, this plant contains the chemical dimethyltryptamine, a psychedelic. It is also used as traditional medicine among the Amazon people to treat aches and arthritis, infertility and impotency.
Growing Conditions and General Cultivation
Hot Lips plant is from Central and South America, especially in areas like Columbia, Ecuador, Costa Rica and Panama. It grows where the soil is rich and humid from leaf litter, moist and sheltered from the most powerful sun rays by upper story trees.
Interior growers turn to plants from around the world to add exotic touches to the home. Hot Lips plant fits the bill but requires a tropical environment. For this reason, it is mostly a collector’s plant for much of the United States. Growing Hot Lips plants requires a heated greenhouse or solarium, high humidity and shelter from harsh solar rays.
Growing Hot Lips plant means mimicking the understory tropical environment for which it is suited. Most potting soil will not have both the excellent drainage and moisture retentiveness necessary to raise these plants. Add a bit of vermiculite and peat moss before potting up the plant.
Place it in an area with temperatures of at least 70ºF (21ºC), humidity of at least 60% and indirect bright lighting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月30日
The genus Aquilegia, also known as Columbine plants are easy-to-grow perennials that offers seasonal interest throughout much of the year. Aquilegia‘s bell-shaped flowers are popular with hummingbirds, bees and gardeners. The mid-spring blooms fill the void between early spring bulbs and peak garden season. They are associated with woodland gardens, but most are widely adaptable. Many of the species are native to areas throughout North America, from Canada to Texas.
Most varieties of Columbine will bloom for at least 4 weeks. They are tougher plants than they appear, but they tend to be short-lived perennials. However they will seed and spread, remaining in your garden for years.
Columbine plants have an airy appearance, with small, rounded leaves and tall flower stalks that hold the blooms above the foliage. Flat fans of oval dark green leaves that turn red in the fall. Each dangling, bell-shaped flower has 5 petals that flare out from the base, surrounded by a collar of 5 larger sepals. The long, nectar holding spurs arch backward out of the flowers.
Growing Conditions
Light: While they enjoy full sun in most areas, they don’t like it very hot, especially during summer. Therefore, in warmer areas like the south, grow them in partial shade.
Water: Keep the plants moist following columbine planting until well established. Then only weekly watering is necessary with exception to extended periods of drought in which they will require additional watering.
Fertilizer: Provide a water soluble fertilizer monthly. Regular fertilizing will help produce brighter blooms and thicker foliage.
Soil: Columbine plants aren’t too particular about soil as long it’s well draining and not too dry.
Planting
You can start Columbine from seed or plant. Seeds can be direct sown throughout spring. The seeds need light to germinate, so simply press them on the soil surface and barely cover with soil. Since Columbine is a perennial, it will take 2 years from planting seed, for them to bloom.
If you are starting your seeds indoors, they will do better with some pre-chilling. Place the seeds in the refrigerator in a plastic bag with some damp potting soil, 8-12 weeks before your last frost date. Then pot them up and move them to a warmer spot.
Columbine plants should be planted with their crown at soil level. Water well and mulch. New plants will need to be kept moist, until they become established. You’ll know when they start putting out a lot of new growth. Even then, keep your Columbine well water during dry spells.
Pests and Diseases
Aphids, Caterpillars and Leaf miners – Leaf miners are by far the biggest problem. They tunnel inside the leaves and can quickly make an unsightly mess. Shearing the plants, after blooming, will usually avoid the problem. Since Columbine doesn’t not usually rebloom shearing is the best way to control insect problems. The leaves will eventually fill back in.
Grower’s Tips
Columbnie plants can handle full sun. It’s the combination of heat and dry soil they don’t like and mulching will help alleviate that. They will self-sow, but new plants can be lost if the summer gets to hot. Also, plants tend to be short lived, fading out within 3 years. Hedge your bets and save some seed to sow in the fall or falling spring.
Keep in mind that Columbine varieties readily cross pollinate. If you plant more than one variety, be prepared to see new colors and combinations.
If self-sowing becomes a nuisance, shear the plants back in mid-summer, to prevent seed pods from forming.
Most varieties of Columbine will bloom for at least 4 weeks. They are tougher plants than they appear, but they tend to be short-lived perennials. However they will seed and spread, remaining in your garden for years.
Columbine plants have an airy appearance, with small, rounded leaves and tall flower stalks that hold the blooms above the foliage. Flat fans of oval dark green leaves that turn red in the fall. Each dangling, bell-shaped flower has 5 petals that flare out from the base, surrounded by a collar of 5 larger sepals. The long, nectar holding spurs arch backward out of the flowers.
Growing Conditions
Light: While they enjoy full sun in most areas, they don’t like it very hot, especially during summer. Therefore, in warmer areas like the south, grow them in partial shade.
Water: Keep the plants moist following columbine planting until well established. Then only weekly watering is necessary with exception to extended periods of drought in which they will require additional watering.
Fertilizer: Provide a water soluble fertilizer monthly. Regular fertilizing will help produce brighter blooms and thicker foliage.
Soil: Columbine plants aren’t too particular about soil as long it’s well draining and not too dry.
Planting
You can start Columbine from seed or plant. Seeds can be direct sown throughout spring. The seeds need light to germinate, so simply press them on the soil surface and barely cover with soil. Since Columbine is a perennial, it will take 2 years from planting seed, for them to bloom.
If you are starting your seeds indoors, they will do better with some pre-chilling. Place the seeds in the refrigerator in a plastic bag with some damp potting soil, 8-12 weeks before your last frost date. Then pot them up and move them to a warmer spot.
Columbine plants should be planted with their crown at soil level. Water well and mulch. New plants will need to be kept moist, until they become established. You’ll know when they start putting out a lot of new growth. Even then, keep your Columbine well water during dry spells.
Pests and Diseases
Aphids, Caterpillars and Leaf miners – Leaf miners are by far the biggest problem. They tunnel inside the leaves and can quickly make an unsightly mess. Shearing the plants, after blooming, will usually avoid the problem. Since Columbine doesn’t not usually rebloom shearing is the best way to control insect problems. The leaves will eventually fill back in.
Grower’s Tips
Columbnie plants can handle full sun. It’s the combination of heat and dry soil they don’t like and mulching will help alleviate that. They will self-sow, but new plants can be lost if the summer gets to hot. Also, plants tend to be short lived, fading out within 3 years. Hedge your bets and save some seed to sow in the fall or falling spring.
Keep in mind that Columbine varieties readily cross pollinate. If you plant more than one variety, be prepared to see new colors and combinations.
If self-sowing becomes a nuisance, shear the plants back in mid-summer, to prevent seed pods from forming.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Type of Flower
Tulips are a great flower that can grow in a wide range of environments and still reproduce each year. Because of this quality they are called perennials, a flower that will come back year after year. There are a few ways in which this plant can be reproduced to create even more plants to spring up each year or they can simply be planted like normal and will still come out each year without much maintenance.
Planting
The basic planting of the tulip is the same no matter which way you decide you would like your flowers to reproduce with one difference: the depth that the bulb is planted. For both ways, the soil needs to be prepared by removing rocks and weeds and loosening up the soil. Then add organic material and fertilizer and bone meal. Each bulb should be planted about 6 to 8 inches apart. The one major difference is if you wish to have the original bulb reproduce new bulbs, then the original bulb should be planted about 3 inches deep. If you wish to have the same flower reproduce each year without maintenance, then plant the bulb about 8 inches deep.
Little Maintenance
When the bulb is planted deeper, it is less likely to try to produce bulbettes, similar to offspring of the flower. When the tulip produces these bulbettes, it takes all the energy from the main bulb, making it less likely to flower the next year since its nutrients are taken away. Also keep in mind if the tulip begins in a pot, it is less likely to reproduce the next year, so it is best to take the bulb out after it flowers and plant it into the ground before summertime hits. This way the bulb can regenerate itself over the winter, so next year it will come back out in bloom. When replanting the bulb, cut away any extra bulbettes. If the small bulbettes are left, the main bulb will not flower the next year and the small bulbettes will take two to three years to flower.
High Maintenance
With shallow planting, the main bulb will produce the bulbettes that can be dug up and split off the main plant and then replanted elsewhere to then reproduce. Each year when the tulip flowers and then dies off, the energy is then sent downward to the main bulb to store energy and produce the bulbettes. The tulip will produce about two to three bulbettes per year. After the flower has died, wait about a month and a half to then dig up the bulbettes to then either store in a cold dry place or replant in another location. Keep in mind they will probably not produce a flower the next year, but the year after.
Seeding
After the tulip flowers and then dies off, if you wish to have the flower reproduce the bulbettes or reproduce on its own, then the foliage should be left, but the old head for the flowers should be cut off. If left the plant will send wasted energy and nutrients to the head to produce seeds. If you would like the seeds to be produced, then leave the heads and after about three weeks, you'll see a swelling on the stem where the flower was. Cut this swelling and remove the seeds, then plant the seeds to grow in another location. Keep in mind these will take longer to reproduce.
Tulips are a great flower that can grow in a wide range of environments and still reproduce each year. Because of this quality they are called perennials, a flower that will come back year after year. There are a few ways in which this plant can be reproduced to create even more plants to spring up each year or they can simply be planted like normal and will still come out each year without much maintenance.
Planting
The basic planting of the tulip is the same no matter which way you decide you would like your flowers to reproduce with one difference: the depth that the bulb is planted. For both ways, the soil needs to be prepared by removing rocks and weeds and loosening up the soil. Then add organic material and fertilizer and bone meal. Each bulb should be planted about 6 to 8 inches apart. The one major difference is if you wish to have the original bulb reproduce new bulbs, then the original bulb should be planted about 3 inches deep. If you wish to have the same flower reproduce each year without maintenance, then plant the bulb about 8 inches deep.
Little Maintenance
When the bulb is planted deeper, it is less likely to try to produce bulbettes, similar to offspring of the flower. When the tulip produces these bulbettes, it takes all the energy from the main bulb, making it less likely to flower the next year since its nutrients are taken away. Also keep in mind if the tulip begins in a pot, it is less likely to reproduce the next year, so it is best to take the bulb out after it flowers and plant it into the ground before summertime hits. This way the bulb can regenerate itself over the winter, so next year it will come back out in bloom. When replanting the bulb, cut away any extra bulbettes. If the small bulbettes are left, the main bulb will not flower the next year and the small bulbettes will take two to three years to flower.
High Maintenance
With shallow planting, the main bulb will produce the bulbettes that can be dug up and split off the main plant and then replanted elsewhere to then reproduce. Each year when the tulip flowers and then dies off, the energy is then sent downward to the main bulb to store energy and produce the bulbettes. The tulip will produce about two to three bulbettes per year. After the flower has died, wait about a month and a half to then dig up the bulbettes to then either store in a cold dry place or replant in another location. Keep in mind they will probably not produce a flower the next year, but the year after.
Seeding
After the tulip flowers and then dies off, if you wish to have the flower reproduce the bulbettes or reproduce on its own, then the foliage should be left, but the old head for the flowers should be cut off. If left the plant will send wasted energy and nutrients to the head to produce seeds. If you would like the seeds to be produced, then leave the heads and after about three weeks, you'll see a swelling on the stem where the flower was. Cut this swelling and remove the seeds, then plant the seeds to grow in another location. Keep in mind these will take longer to reproduce.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips have long been a popular selection for gardens and cut-flower arrangements. There are about 150 tulip species that come in dozens of colors and shades. With a little effort and know-how, even beginning gardeners will find tulips are easy to grow. Tulips are popular worldwide, with numerous festivals held each year in honor of the flower.
Time Frame
Tulips are known as a spring flower, and most tulips do bloom in spring. But different varieties bloom at different times, and there are early, mid- and late bloomers. Early bloomers generally bloom in April, mid-bloomers in May and late bloomers in June.
Planting
Because tulip bulbs need to be cold while they are dormant, you need to plant them in the fall, before the first snow, for them to bloom in the spring.
Types
Tulips are a a perennial, so they will bloom every year. To keep your plants healthy, apply a fertilizer each spring and fall. You should also cut back the blossoms after their peak period is over.
Growing Conditions
Your tulips will do best in a well-drained soil and need to be watered well immediately after planting. They can be grown in full sun or partial shade.
Tips
Some gardeners have better luck with their tulips by digging up the bulbs after the spring blooming season and storing them in a cool, dry place such as a garage or shed. In the fall, they can be replanted for blooming the next spring.
Time Frame
Tulips are known as a spring flower, and most tulips do bloom in spring. But different varieties bloom at different times, and there are early, mid- and late bloomers. Early bloomers generally bloom in April, mid-bloomers in May and late bloomers in June.
Planting
Because tulip bulbs need to be cold while they are dormant, you need to plant them in the fall, before the first snow, for them to bloom in the spring.
Types
Tulips are a a perennial, so they will bloom every year. To keep your plants healthy, apply a fertilizer each spring and fall. You should also cut back the blossoms after their peak period is over.
Growing Conditions
Your tulips will do best in a well-drained soil and need to be watered well immediately after planting. They can be grown in full sun or partial shade.
Tips
Some gardeners have better luck with their tulips by digging up the bulbs after the spring blooming season and storing them in a cool, dry place such as a garage or shed. In the fall, they can be replanted for blooming the next spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Cool-season bulb plants, tulips (Tulipa spp.) were first discovered in eastern Turkey. Although tulips grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8, they don't bloom reliably in mild-winter climates unless you dig them up and refrigerate them. In regions where temperatures rarely drop below 25 degrees Fahrenheit, you'll need to chill the bulbs if you want to see flowers each year.
Prepare Bulbs for Digging
Tulips spend their energy while they're flowering, and they need to replenish this energy after their spring show. If you plan to dig, store and replant your tulip bulbs, leave them in the ground until the leaves yellow and wither. As long as the leaves are green, they're photosynthesizing -- building energy stores for the next season's flowers. Clip the spent flower off the stalk to prevent seed formation. Setting seed takes energy and weakens the bulb.
Dig and Store Tulip Bulbs
If you live in USDA zone 8 or cooler and your bulbs are planted in an area of your yard that remains relatively dry, you can leave the bulbs in the ground until June or July. If you live in a warmer climate or your soil will stay moist, dig the bulbs as soon as the leaves wither. Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the ground. Separate the bulbs. Remove roots and loose soil from the bulbs and store them in a dry place with good air circulation in mesh bags or shallow wooden crates, with bulbs no more than 5 inches deep in the container. Avoid storing bulbs where temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Allow Tulips to Chill
If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, plant tulips between early November and early January. In colder climates, plant tulips in early fall.
Count back 16 to 18 weeks before planting time for your area, and place the bulbs in ventilated bags or dry peat moss and put them in your refrigerator, an unheated building or other spot where temperatures remain between 35 and 45 F. Keep the bulbs chilled until it's time to plant.
Prepare the Bed
Fertilize the tulip bed at planting time by digging in a 2-inch layer of compost or well-rotted cow manure, or use a 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 commercial fertilizer after planting. Apply commercial fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet, or follow label instructions. Spread the fertilizer on top of the bed after planting, then water the area.
Set bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up. If you plan to mulch, add the mulch depth to your calculation. For example, if you plan to add 2 inches of mulch, plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep. After green shoots emerge, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 at the same rate you used at planting time.
Prepare Bulbs for Digging
Tulips spend their energy while they're flowering, and they need to replenish this energy after their spring show. If you plan to dig, store and replant your tulip bulbs, leave them in the ground until the leaves yellow and wither. As long as the leaves are green, they're photosynthesizing -- building energy stores for the next season's flowers. Clip the spent flower off the stalk to prevent seed formation. Setting seed takes energy and weakens the bulb.
Dig and Store Tulip Bulbs
If you live in USDA zone 8 or cooler and your bulbs are planted in an area of your yard that remains relatively dry, you can leave the bulbs in the ground until June or July. If you live in a warmer climate or your soil will stay moist, dig the bulbs as soon as the leaves wither. Use a garden fork to dig under the bulbs and lift them from the ground. Separate the bulbs. Remove roots and loose soil from the bulbs and store them in a dry place with good air circulation in mesh bags or shallow wooden crates, with bulbs no more than 5 inches deep in the container. Avoid storing bulbs where temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Allow Tulips to Chill
If you live in USDA zones 8 through 10, plant tulips between early November and early January. In colder climates, plant tulips in early fall.
Count back 16 to 18 weeks before planting time for your area, and place the bulbs in ventilated bags or dry peat moss and put them in your refrigerator, an unheated building or other spot where temperatures remain between 35 and 45 F. Keep the bulbs chilled until it's time to plant.
Prepare the Bed
Fertilize the tulip bed at planting time by digging in a 2-inch layer of compost or well-rotted cow manure, or use a 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 commercial fertilizer after planting. Apply commercial fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet, or follow label instructions. Spread the fertilizer on top of the bed after planting, then water the area.
Set bulbs 6 to 8 inches deep, with the pointed end facing up. If you plan to mulch, add the mulch depth to your calculation. For example, if you plan to add 2 inches of mulch, plant the bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep. After green shoots emerge, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 10-15-10 at the same rate you used at planting time.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips grow and bloom in late winter and early spring, bringing bright color to otherwise sleepy gardens. These bulb plants are equally successful in pots, both in the house and in the garden. Potted tulips require the same planting times, placement and care as outdoor tulips if they're to bloom in spring, so buy some tulips bulbs in fall and get started.
Step 1
Plant tulip bulbs in fall, around the first frost date in your area. All tulips require a cold "resting" time in fall in order to bloom. Use pots at least 6 inches deep with drainage holes for tulips, to accommodate their roots and keep them from sitting in water.
Step 2
Fill the pots halfway with quick-draining potting soil, and set the tulip bulbs on the soil with their noses pointing up. Plant tulip bulbs closely, but never place them close enough to touch each other. Fill the pots to within 1 inch of the surface with more potting soil.
Step 3
Water the tulips until water runs out of the drainage hole in the pot, then set them outside for the winter.
Step 4
Move tulips indoors again when their stems are 1 inch long. Put the pots in a cool, dark space and give them several weeks to grow. Move the tulips back into a sunny spot when their stems are 4 to 5 inches long.
Step 5
Water sprouted tulips with 2 inches of water a week to maintain consistent soil moisture, and keep them in full sun for six to eight hours a day.
Step 1
Plant tulip bulbs in fall, around the first frost date in your area. All tulips require a cold "resting" time in fall in order to bloom. Use pots at least 6 inches deep with drainage holes for tulips, to accommodate their roots and keep them from sitting in water.
Step 2
Fill the pots halfway with quick-draining potting soil, and set the tulip bulbs on the soil with their noses pointing up. Plant tulip bulbs closely, but never place them close enough to touch each other. Fill the pots to within 1 inch of the surface with more potting soil.
Step 3
Water the tulips until water runs out of the drainage hole in the pot, then set them outside for the winter.
Step 4
Move tulips indoors again when their stems are 1 inch long. Put the pots in a cool, dark space and give them several weeks to grow. Move the tulips back into a sunny spot when their stems are 4 to 5 inches long.
Step 5
Water sprouted tulips with 2 inches of water a week to maintain consistent soil moisture, and keep them in full sun for six to eight hours a day.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年09月29日
Tulips are traditionally a spring flower, but they can be grown year-round in a glass container. The bulb sits above water and the roots sprout down into the water, encouraging the bulb to grow. This is normally done with hyacinths and hyacinth glasses are available for this specific use. However, this method works for most bulbs, including tulips. The tulip will continue to grow above the water, creating a single flower that works as a centerpiece and adds color to a room throughout the year.
Step 1
Add smooth, decorative stones to a glass jar until they are about 2 inches high.
Step 2
Nestle the bulb into the stones so that it sits upright with the pointy part up.
Step 3
Fill the jar with water until the water level is ¼ inch below the bottom of the bulb. The water should never touch the bulb. Keep the water at this level; the roots will grow down into the water.
Step 4
Put the bulb in a cool, dark location for up to six weeks. It will bloom when it is brought out into the light.
Step 1
Add smooth, decorative stones to a glass jar until they are about 2 inches high.
Step 2
Nestle the bulb into the stones so that it sits upright with the pointy part up.
Step 3
Fill the jar with water until the water level is ¼ inch below the bottom of the bulb. The water should never touch the bulb. Keep the water at this level; the roots will grow down into the water.
Step 4
Put the bulb in a cool, dark location for up to six weeks. It will bloom when it is brought out into the light.
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成长记
greenwhalepinkshark
2017年09月28日
What a dramatic color change after a week under the grow lights!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) are perhaps one of the easiest flowers that you can grow in the garden. They are so easy to grow that they are frequently used to introduce very young gardeners to the joys of gardening. Many gardeners fondly remember planting the black and white seeds of giant Sunflowers and watching in wonder as they grew to tower into the sky.
But just because Sunflowers are easy to grow does not mean that they should be dismissed from the grown-up garden. The variety of Sunflowers available to the home gardener is absolutely amazing and, as an added bonus, Sunflowers can help attract some local birds to your garden.
Sunflowers come in sizes that range from dwarf varieties, which can be as small as a foot and a half tall, to giant varieties, which grow to be over twelve feet tall. You can find Sunflowers in colors from very pale yellows to dark, burgundy reds and all shades of yellow, red and orange in-between.
Sunflowers also come in a variety of petal counts. While the single layer of petals is still the most common, you can find quite a few Sunflower varieties with double and teddy bear petal layers. All of these sunflower options ensure that when you add these flowers to your garden, it will be anything but blah.
Growing Conditions and General Care
If you decide to add Sunflowers to your garden, there are a few things you will want to keep in mind.
First of all, they are called sunflowers for a reason. They need sun. Make sure that the location you choose for your Sunflowers gets full sun.
Second, you do not need to worry about soil too much. They are not picky about the conditions of the soil, but they are plants. They will do better in better soil.
Third, Sunflower seed shells do contain a substance that is toxic to grass. So, you will need to either harvest the Sunflower heads before the seeds begin to fall out or you will need to plant your Sunflowers in a location where you do not mind any nearby grass being killed.
Fourth, keep in mind the height of the Sunflower variety you have chosen. A giant, twelve foot variety will end up acting very much like a small tree and may shade the surrounding flowers.
As mentioned above, Sunflowers can also help you to attract local birds to your garden. When the growing season is coming to a close, you can harvest your sunflower heads and use some of the seeds to feed the birds over the winter. You have two options when using sunflower seeds to feed the birds. The first is that you can simply leave the Sunflower heads outside for the birds. This option is the easiest but be warned that the birds will make a mess when pulling the seeds out of the Sunflower head. Your other option is to remove the seeds from the head and to put them in your bird feeder. This method is a little more work but will be neater in the long run. Also, putting the seeds in a birdfeeder will also help to keep your feathered friends safe as the birdfeeder will be up off the ground and out of reach of many of the animals that eat birds.
So, while you may have fond memories of tall yellow Sunflowers that you planted as a child, give this old garden favorite a new try and rediscover the world of sunflowers.
But just because Sunflowers are easy to grow does not mean that they should be dismissed from the grown-up garden. The variety of Sunflowers available to the home gardener is absolutely amazing and, as an added bonus, Sunflowers can help attract some local birds to your garden.
Sunflowers come in sizes that range from dwarf varieties, which can be as small as a foot and a half tall, to giant varieties, which grow to be over twelve feet tall. You can find Sunflowers in colors from very pale yellows to dark, burgundy reds and all shades of yellow, red and orange in-between.
Sunflowers also come in a variety of petal counts. While the single layer of petals is still the most common, you can find quite a few Sunflower varieties with double and teddy bear petal layers. All of these sunflower options ensure that when you add these flowers to your garden, it will be anything but blah.
Growing Conditions and General Care
If you decide to add Sunflowers to your garden, there are a few things you will want to keep in mind.
First of all, they are called sunflowers for a reason. They need sun. Make sure that the location you choose for your Sunflowers gets full sun.
Second, you do not need to worry about soil too much. They are not picky about the conditions of the soil, but they are plants. They will do better in better soil.
Third, Sunflower seed shells do contain a substance that is toxic to grass. So, you will need to either harvest the Sunflower heads before the seeds begin to fall out or you will need to plant your Sunflowers in a location where you do not mind any nearby grass being killed.
Fourth, keep in mind the height of the Sunflower variety you have chosen. A giant, twelve foot variety will end up acting very much like a small tree and may shade the surrounding flowers.
As mentioned above, Sunflowers can also help you to attract local birds to your garden. When the growing season is coming to a close, you can harvest your sunflower heads and use some of the seeds to feed the birds over the winter. You have two options when using sunflower seeds to feed the birds. The first is that you can simply leave the Sunflower heads outside for the birds. This option is the easiest but be warned that the birds will make a mess when pulling the seeds out of the Sunflower head. Your other option is to remove the seeds from the head and to put them in your bird feeder. This method is a little more work but will be neater in the long run. Also, putting the seeds in a birdfeeder will also help to keep your feathered friends safe as the birdfeeder will be up off the ground and out of reach of many of the animals that eat birds.
So, while you may have fond memories of tall yellow Sunflowers that you planted as a child, give this old garden favorite a new try and rediscover the world of sunflowers.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Acacias are graceful trees that grow in warm climates such as Hawaii, Mexico and the southwestern United States. The foliage is typically bright green or bluish-green and the small blooms may be creamy white, pale yellow or bright yellow. Acacia may be evergreen or deciduous.
Most Аcacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions. Many types of Аcacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Interestingly, stinging ants and Аcacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although Acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system.
During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water.
Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth.
Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
Most Аcacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions. Many types of Аcacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Interestingly, stinging ants and Аcacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although Acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system.
During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water.
Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth.
Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Some of the most popular orchid plants among home growers are Dendrobium orchids These showy flowers are relatively easy to grow, with a central long stem and an attractive spray of flowers that can last up to four weeks.
There are many Dendrobium varieties, and each one has slightly different growing conditions. Luckily, with all the types of Dendrobium orchids to choose from, there is likely to be one that fits your home environment perfectly.
Dendrobium is sort of the catch-all of orchid species. When you look for Dendrobium orchid info, you can find whole books devoted to each of the different types of Dendrobium orchids that can fall into this category. In general, though, you can separate them in a few different groups.
Sheer beginners will love Nobile orchids. These hybrids go dormant for a couple of months in the winter, losing some of their leaves in the process. These plants can have up to 50 blooms on one stem, making for a stunning floral display. Growers have perfected the Nobile hybrids so closely that they can even cause them to bloom for any requested holiday. If you’re looking for an orchid with lots of helpful information available about it, this is the one to choose.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Although there is a huge variety from which to choose, when it comes to learning how to grow Dendrobium orchids, there are two important rules that they all follow.
First, they like to live in little pots with their roots crowded into a tiny area. If you try to be nice and give them room to spread out, the roots are likely to stay too moist and begin to rot. If you don’t like the look of a large plant growing in a ridiculously small pot, camouflage it in a larger planter.
The other way to care for Dendrobium orchids is to give them as much bright light as possible. This doesn’t mean sticking them in the desert sunlight, but a south-facing window in the house is the place where they will thrive. In almost all cases, when your Dendrobium orchid isn’t flowering, it’s a case of not enough sunlight.
There are many Dendrobium varieties, and each one has slightly different growing conditions. Luckily, with all the types of Dendrobium orchids to choose from, there is likely to be one that fits your home environment perfectly.
Dendrobium is sort of the catch-all of orchid species. When you look for Dendrobium orchid info, you can find whole books devoted to each of the different types of Dendrobium orchids that can fall into this category. In general, though, you can separate them in a few different groups.
Sheer beginners will love Nobile orchids. These hybrids go dormant for a couple of months in the winter, losing some of their leaves in the process. These plants can have up to 50 blooms on one stem, making for a stunning floral display. Growers have perfected the Nobile hybrids so closely that they can even cause them to bloom for any requested holiday. If you’re looking for an orchid with lots of helpful information available about it, this is the one to choose.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Although there is a huge variety from which to choose, when it comes to learning how to grow Dendrobium orchids, there are two important rules that they all follow.
First, they like to live in little pots with their roots crowded into a tiny area. If you try to be nice and give them room to spread out, the roots are likely to stay too moist and begin to rot. If you don’t like the look of a large plant growing in a ridiculously small pot, camouflage it in a larger planter.
The other way to care for Dendrobium orchids is to give them as much bright light as possible. This doesn’t mean sticking them in the desert sunlight, but a south-facing window in the house is the place where they will thrive. In almost all cases, when your Dendrobium orchid isn’t flowering, it’s a case of not enough sunlight.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
What southern garden is complete without the majestic, fragrant Magnolia tree? If you’ve long admired the beauty of Magnolias, you’ll be happy to learn that they’re quite easy to grow. And with over 80 species native to North America and Asia, there’s sure to be one that’s right for your yard.
With their glorious flowers and dramatic foliage, magnolias are a garden favorite. Magnolias:
– Require very little care.
– Are resistant to many diseases and pests.
– Tolerate harsh Southern summers.
– Provide year-round beauty.
– Seeds and foliage are favorites of migrating birds.
As you dream about Magnolias in your yard, keep in mind that there are many different species and varieties to choose from. They range in size from 20 to 80 feet (6 to 24 m) tall, with both evergreen and deciduous species.
Growing Conditions
Although different species of Magnolia can tolerate slightly different conditions, in general they will do best with:
Soil: Slightly acidic, moist, loose, well-draining soil. To mimic Magnolia’s natural conditions, amend heavy soil with peat moss and compost.
Hardiness: Grow best in Zones 7-10, depending on variety, with a few cultivars hardy to zone 5.
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Moist, peaty soil can help Magnolias tolerate full sun. If you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance, avoid planting Magnolias in southern exposure since the leaves can be damaged by winter sun and flowers may open prematurely.
Water: Magnolias benefit from irrigation the first few years, then they are tolerant of moderate drought.
Space: They need room to grow to their full mature size and width. While looking small when first planted, over time they’ll grow to fill up the space.
Flowers: Some varieties of Magnolia don’t bloom until 15 years old, so be sure to choose one that’s fits your needs and expectations. Grafted plants (rather than seed-grown) bloom sooner.
Planting Tips
Timing: Plant container-grown and balled-and-burlapped Magnolias in fall or spring. Plant field-grown or transplanted Magnolias in early spring. Avoid fall planting if you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance.
Spread Roots: When planting, be sure to cut any roots that are circling the root ball. Magnolias have a tendency to girdle (or become rootbound) if the roots aren’t spread out.
Water: Give your new Magnolia one inch of water per week.
Fertilizer: Don’t fertilize your newly planted Magnolia until next growing season. Then for the next three years or so, feed your Magnolia with a balanced organic fertilizer every other month between March and September, cutting back to once or twice per season after that.
Support: Use stakes and lines to stabilize your new magnolia since it will be top-heavy.
Growing Tips
Problems: Magnolias are generally trouble-free, and in most cases, minor problems – such as scale or leaf spots – can be left untreated.
Pruning: If you want to prune or shape your Magnolia, do it while the tree is very young since large branches don’t heal very well from pruning.
Bark Damage: Magnolias are susceptible to bark damage and breakage, so avoid hitting them with the string trimmer or lawn mower.
Propagating: You can propagate Magnolias by collecting the seeds, or take semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer. Cuttings can take up to a year to root.
Transplanting: Magnolias have an enormous, rope-like root system. They don’t usually tolerate transplanting once the trunk is 4 inches (10 cm) or larger in diameter.
With their glorious flowers and dramatic foliage, magnolias are a garden favorite. Magnolias:
– Require very little care.
– Are resistant to many diseases and pests.
– Tolerate harsh Southern summers.
– Provide year-round beauty.
– Seeds and foliage are favorites of migrating birds.
As you dream about Magnolias in your yard, keep in mind that there are many different species and varieties to choose from. They range in size from 20 to 80 feet (6 to 24 m) tall, with both evergreen and deciduous species.
Growing Conditions
Although different species of Magnolia can tolerate slightly different conditions, in general they will do best with:
Soil: Slightly acidic, moist, loose, well-draining soil. To mimic Magnolia’s natural conditions, amend heavy soil with peat moss and compost.
Hardiness: Grow best in Zones 7-10, depending on variety, with a few cultivars hardy to zone 5.
Light: Full sun to partial shade. Moist, peaty soil can help Magnolias tolerate full sun. If you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance, avoid planting Magnolias in southern exposure since the leaves can be damaged by winter sun and flowers may open prematurely.
Water: Magnolias benefit from irrigation the first few years, then they are tolerant of moderate drought.
Space: They need room to grow to their full mature size and width. While looking small when first planted, over time they’ll grow to fill up the space.
Flowers: Some varieties of Magnolia don’t bloom until 15 years old, so be sure to choose one that’s fits your needs and expectations. Grafted plants (rather than seed-grown) bloom sooner.
Planting Tips
Timing: Plant container-grown and balled-and-burlapped Magnolias in fall or spring. Plant field-grown or transplanted Magnolias in early spring. Avoid fall planting if you’re pushing the limits of cold tolerance.
Spread Roots: When planting, be sure to cut any roots that are circling the root ball. Magnolias have a tendency to girdle (or become rootbound) if the roots aren’t spread out.
Water: Give your new Magnolia one inch of water per week.
Fertilizer: Don’t fertilize your newly planted Magnolia until next growing season. Then for the next three years or so, feed your Magnolia with a balanced organic fertilizer every other month between March and September, cutting back to once or twice per season after that.
Support: Use stakes and lines to stabilize your new magnolia since it will be top-heavy.
Growing Tips
Problems: Magnolias are generally trouble-free, and in most cases, minor problems – such as scale or leaf spots – can be left untreated.
Pruning: If you want to prune or shape your Magnolia, do it while the tree is very young since large branches don’t heal very well from pruning.
Bark Damage: Magnolias are susceptible to bark damage and breakage, so avoid hitting them with the string trimmer or lawn mower.
Propagating: You can propagate Magnolias by collecting the seeds, or take semi-hardwood cuttings in late summer. Cuttings can take up to a year to root.
Transplanting: Magnolias have an enormous, rope-like root system. They don’t usually tolerate transplanting once the trunk is 4 inches (10 cm) or larger in diameter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
Proteas are native to southern Africa and belong to the same family of plants (the family Proteaceae) as the Australian-grown Banksias, Grevilleas and Waratahs.
They are often seen as temperamental and difficult plants to grow, but the truth is that Proteas are relatively easy as long as you follow a few simple rules.
Selecting
Seek advice from your local nursery on which type of Protea grows best in your area.
Soil Requirements
Most Proteas prefer soils that are well-drained and acidic and we suggest to avoid heavy clay soils, as they need good drainage for healthy root growth. If you have a garden with heavy or clay soil, consider improving the drainage by using a free draining garden mix and either creating a raised garden bed (minimum height 12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) or installing underground drainage pipes.
Planting
We recommended planting in autumn or spring, allowing the Proteas to absorb as much sun as possible. For best results, allow plenty of space between plants for air to circulate and avoid planting any Proteas deeper than the surface level in the pot.
Fertilizing
We suggest avoided any use of fertilizer when planting out Proteas, as they have a specially adapted system of fine roots (called ‘proteoid’ roots) which will develop naturally to seek out available nutrients in the soil. For necessary fertilization during early stages of growth, use a local plant fertilizer – either a very mild solution of a soluble fertilizer or coated slow release pellets, with low or zero phosphorus. Maturing Proteas may also need fertilizing, especially if the type of soil in your garden is free draining.
Watering
Protea root systems must be kept lightly moist until the plants are well established (this can be up to 18 months or more). The frequency of watering will depend on soil type and climatic conditions, however mature Proteas only require deep watering once a week during dry spells, or once a fortnight during a dry winter.
Mulching and Weed Control
We suggest using natural mulches of around 4 inches (10 cm) thickness, such as leaves, wood chips or general shredded garden waste, as they help to retain moisture and look great in the garden. Avoid fresh young mulching materials which tend to draw nitrogen out of the soil as they rot, causing harmful fungi.
Be sure to keep mulching materials away from Protea stems as this may cause them to rot.
Pruning
Proteas can be lightly pruned during the first 12 months to give a good shape and to help them establish resistance to strong winds. Mature Proteas should not be severely pruned as this may permanently damage them.
Cut Flowers
We recommend cutting the flower stems as long as possible, ensuring that there is foliage remaining on the stem below the cut. Fresh cut flowers can be maintained by regularly cutting 0.4 to 0.8 inch (1 to 2 cm) off the bottom of the stems and frequently changing the water. For best results, add a quarter teaspoon of household bleach to every liter of fresh water.
For dried arrangements, flowers can be hung upside down in a dark place with some air circulation. This will help to retain more color and prevent the growth of mold.
Proteas as Pot Plants
It is possible to grow the smaller varieties of Proteas in containers using a coarse well-drained native potting mix and keeping the plants in a sunny position with plenty of air circulation. Avoid over-fertilizing or letting the container dry out.
They are often seen as temperamental and difficult plants to grow, but the truth is that Proteas are relatively easy as long as you follow a few simple rules.
Selecting
Seek advice from your local nursery on which type of Protea grows best in your area.
Soil Requirements
Most Proteas prefer soils that are well-drained and acidic and we suggest to avoid heavy clay soils, as they need good drainage for healthy root growth. If you have a garden with heavy or clay soil, consider improving the drainage by using a free draining garden mix and either creating a raised garden bed (minimum height 12 to 18 inches / 30 to 45 cm) or installing underground drainage pipes.
Planting
We recommended planting in autumn or spring, allowing the Proteas to absorb as much sun as possible. For best results, allow plenty of space between plants for air to circulate and avoid planting any Proteas deeper than the surface level in the pot.
Fertilizing
We suggest avoided any use of fertilizer when planting out Proteas, as they have a specially adapted system of fine roots (called ‘proteoid’ roots) which will develop naturally to seek out available nutrients in the soil. For necessary fertilization during early stages of growth, use a local plant fertilizer – either a very mild solution of a soluble fertilizer or coated slow release pellets, with low or zero phosphorus. Maturing Proteas may also need fertilizing, especially if the type of soil in your garden is free draining.
Watering
Protea root systems must be kept lightly moist until the plants are well established (this can be up to 18 months or more). The frequency of watering will depend on soil type and climatic conditions, however mature Proteas only require deep watering once a week during dry spells, or once a fortnight during a dry winter.
Mulching and Weed Control
We suggest using natural mulches of around 4 inches (10 cm) thickness, such as leaves, wood chips or general shredded garden waste, as they help to retain moisture and look great in the garden. Avoid fresh young mulching materials which tend to draw nitrogen out of the soil as they rot, causing harmful fungi.
Be sure to keep mulching materials away from Protea stems as this may cause them to rot.
Pruning
Proteas can be lightly pruned during the first 12 months to give a good shape and to help them establish resistance to strong winds. Mature Proteas should not be severely pruned as this may permanently damage them.
Cut Flowers
We recommend cutting the flower stems as long as possible, ensuring that there is foliage remaining on the stem below the cut. Fresh cut flowers can be maintained by regularly cutting 0.4 to 0.8 inch (1 to 2 cm) off the bottom of the stems and frequently changing the water. For best results, add a quarter teaspoon of household bleach to every liter of fresh water.
For dried arrangements, flowers can be hung upside down in a dark place with some air circulation. This will help to retain more color and prevent the growth of mold.
Proteas as Pot Plants
It is possible to grow the smaller varieties of Proteas in containers using a coarse well-drained native potting mix and keeping the plants in a sunny position with plenty of air circulation. Avoid over-fertilizing or letting the container dry out.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
While often sold as a flowering perennial, Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is actually an herb. Whether you decide to grow Yarrow in your flower beds or in your herb garden, it’s still a lovely addition to your yard.
Yarrow has many uses as an herb. It is commonly used as a medicinal herb that can treat the bleeding of minor wounds, swollen or cramping muscles, reducing fever or to help with relaxing. As with any medicinal herb, it should not be taken without first consulting a physician. On the non-medicinal side, Yarrow is an astringent and makes a good facial wash or shampoo. Whether you grow Yarrow as a decorative plant or an herb, you can be sure that it will add beauty to your garden. Since Yarrow care is so easy, you have nothing to lose by giving this ancient herb a small place in one of your flower beds.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your Yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) apart if you’re planting more than one plant.
You can also start your Yarrow from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a sunny and warm location.
The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted.
Regardless of whether your plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrows will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil.
Some caution should be taken when growing Yarrow, as in the right conditions, it can become invasive and will then be in need of control.
Once you have planted your Yarrow, it needs little care. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and only needs to be watered during times of severe drought.
While Yarrow needs little care, it is susceptible to a few diseases and pests. Most commonly, plants will be affected by either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. These will both appear as a white powdery covering on the leaves. Both can be treated with a fungicide. Yarrows are also occasionally affected by spittlebugs.
Yarrow has many uses as an herb. It is commonly used as a medicinal herb that can treat the bleeding of minor wounds, swollen or cramping muscles, reducing fever or to help with relaxing. As with any medicinal herb, it should not be taken without first consulting a physician. On the non-medicinal side, Yarrow is an astringent and makes a good facial wash or shampoo. Whether you grow Yarrow as a decorative plant or an herb, you can be sure that it will add beauty to your garden. Since Yarrow care is so easy, you have nothing to lose by giving this ancient herb a small place in one of your flower beds.
Growing Conditions and General Care
It is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your Yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches (30 to 60 cm) apart if you’re planting more than one plant.
You can also start your Yarrow from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the seeds in a sunny and warm location.
The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted.
Regardless of whether your plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrows will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil.
Some caution should be taken when growing Yarrow, as in the right conditions, it can become invasive and will then be in need of control.
Once you have planted your Yarrow, it needs little care. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and only needs to be watered during times of severe drought.
While Yarrow needs little care, it is susceptible to a few diseases and pests. Most commonly, plants will be affected by either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. These will both appear as a white powdery covering on the leaves. Both can be treated with a fungicide. Yarrows are also occasionally affected by spittlebugs.
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