文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月22日
Sansevierias are valued for their interesting appearance and durability. Although the most common variety is known as Snake Plant or Mother-in-Law’s Tongue for its long, pointed leaves that stand straight up in the pot, other varieties grow from compact rosettes and reach mature heights of only about 4 inches (10 cm). Because Sansevierias thrive with minimal care and live for many years, it seems nearly indestructible. Sansevieria is suitable for planting outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10B through 11.
Light
Place Sansevierias in moderately bright or filtered light. Good locations include a spot in front of a north-facing window or in front of a bright, sunny window covered by a sheer curtain. Although the plant tolerates low light, bright light brings out the colors in the leaves. However, intense light may cause the edges of the leaves to turn yellow.
Watering
Allow the soil to dry completely before watering, and then water deeply until water drips through the drainage hole. Allow the pot to drain and then discard water that remains in the saucer. Never allow the soil to become soggy and never let the pot stand in water. Water sparingly throughout the winter. Like most succulent plants that store water in their leaves, Sansevieria rots quickly in excessively wet soil.
Temperature
Place Sansevieria in average room temperatures. Protect the plant from drafts and cold temperatures as it is damaged at temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Feeding
Feed the plant once every three weeks throughout the summer. Use a general-purpose fertilizer for houseplants diluted to one-half the strength suggested on the container. Sansevieria is a light feeder and too much fertilizer makes the leaves fall over.
Repotting
Repot the plant into a container one size larger only when the roots outgrow the pot. Sansevieria thrives — and may produce blooms — when its roots are crowded. Fill the container with a lightweight commercial potting soil. Some people repot plants only when the roots crack the pot.
Remove dust by wiping the leaves with a soft, damp cloth. Avoid commercial leaf-shine products, which may damage the leaves or cause them to take on a rusty appearance. If any leaves are damaged or blemished, cut them off, even with the soil.
Light
Place Sansevierias in moderately bright or filtered light. Good locations include a spot in front of a north-facing window or in front of a bright, sunny window covered by a sheer curtain. Although the plant tolerates low light, bright light brings out the colors in the leaves. However, intense light may cause the edges of the leaves to turn yellow.
Watering
Allow the soil to dry completely before watering, and then water deeply until water drips through the drainage hole. Allow the pot to drain and then discard water that remains in the saucer. Never allow the soil to become soggy and never let the pot stand in water. Water sparingly throughout the winter. Like most succulent plants that store water in their leaves, Sansevieria rots quickly in excessively wet soil.
Temperature
Place Sansevieria in average room temperatures. Protect the plant from drafts and cold temperatures as it is damaged at temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius).
Feeding
Feed the plant once every three weeks throughout the summer. Use a general-purpose fertilizer for houseplants diluted to one-half the strength suggested on the container. Sansevieria is a light feeder and too much fertilizer makes the leaves fall over.
Repotting
Repot the plant into a container one size larger only when the roots outgrow the pot. Sansevieria thrives — and may produce blooms — when its roots are crowded. Fill the container with a lightweight commercial potting soil. Some people repot plants only when the roots crack the pot.
Remove dust by wiping the leaves with a soft, damp cloth. Avoid commercial leaf-shine products, which may damage the leaves or cause them to take on a rusty appearance. If any leaves are damaged or blemished, cut them off, even with the soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
The genus Echinocactus (Barrel Cactus) includes about six species of barrel cacti that are native to Mexico and the southeastern United States. These are true desert plants that cannot handle any humidity or standing water to grow. The most common among these plants are almost perfectly round when juvenile, so therefore make excellent display plants. They are also highly attractive with their rows of spines of their deeply ribbed lobes.
As they grow, it’s not uncommon for them to stretch out so they look more like ovals than circles. As with most cacti, the secret to their successful growth indoors is nearly perfect drainage, as opposed to letting them dry out.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Barrel Cactus do best in a very sunny window, perhaps a southern exposure. Plants that do not get enough sunlight will grow more slowly and fail to thrive.
Water: Water infrequently and ensure that the soil drains completely. Do not leave any water sitting in the tray or allow them to sit in water. They are very prone to root rot.
Soil: A cactus soil mix is ideal. If you use a reagular peat-based mix, be sure to add sand or extra perlite to enhance drainage and repot the plant when the soil begins to break down..
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid cactus fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Propagation
Barrel Cactus are typically propagated by seed. Mature cactus will bloom in the summer with flowers that grow in whorls around the top of the plant.
To seed a cactus, plant the seeds shallowly in a cactus mix and keep them warm and very slightly moist.
Repotting
It’s best to repot in the beginning of the growing season, or summer. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Overall, these are very attractive cacti for dish gardens or indoor display. A collection of them is especially attractive, as they look like a collection of balls tossed upon the ground. It’s critical, however, to never let these cactus be exposed to prolonged periods in water, or even very high humidity. They will suffer from rot in the presence of humidity. Echinocactus are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
As they grow, it’s not uncommon for them to stretch out so they look more like ovals than circles. As with most cacti, the secret to their successful growth indoors is nearly perfect drainage, as opposed to letting them dry out.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Barrel Cactus do best in a very sunny window, perhaps a southern exposure. Plants that do not get enough sunlight will grow more slowly and fail to thrive.
Water: Water infrequently and ensure that the soil drains completely. Do not leave any water sitting in the tray or allow them to sit in water. They are very prone to root rot.
Soil: A cactus soil mix is ideal. If you use a reagular peat-based mix, be sure to add sand or extra perlite to enhance drainage and repot the plant when the soil begins to break down..
Fertilizer: Feed with a weak liquid cactus fertilizer throughout the growing season.
Propagation
Barrel Cactus are typically propagated by seed. Mature cactus will bloom in the summer with flowers that grow in whorls around the top of the plant.
To seed a cactus, plant the seeds shallowly in a cactus mix and keep them warm and very slightly moist.
Repotting
It’s best to repot in the beginning of the growing season, or summer. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
Overall, these are very attractive cacti for dish gardens or indoor display. A collection of them is especially attractive, as they look like a collection of balls tossed upon the ground. It’s critical, however, to never let these cactus be exposed to prolonged periods in water, or even very high humidity. They will suffer from rot in the presence of humidity. Echinocactus are vulnerable to pests including aphids, mealy bugs, scale, and white fly. If possible, identify the infestation as early as possible and treat with the leave toxic option.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月21日
Living Stones (Lithops) are unusual succulents that have evolved to resemble the pebbles and rocks that litter their native habitats through southern Africa. These very small plants hug the ground and grow extremely slowly. It can take years for a plant to eventually fill its pots with new leaves. Structurally, Lithops are comprised of two fused leaves above ground that connect to an underground stem with a long root.
The leaves are extremely thick and the degree of fusion depends on the species. Some species appear to be a single leaf, with hardly any evidence of the leaf fusion, while others are deeply lobed to the level of the soil. These plants are great collectibles, but require a careful hand with the water. Too much water and the leaves will burst or the plant will die from beneath. If you provide them with good conditions, they will flower in mid-to late summer with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that emerge from between the leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lithops thrive in full sunlight, so provide as much light as possible. Weak light will cause elongated leaves and washed out patterns on the leaves.
Water: Lithops have a definite annual cycle that should be carefully followed. In the summer, as the plants are dormant, it is okay to lightly water them if the leaves shrivel. In general, plants should not be watered during their summer dormancy or during the winter.
Temperature: Warm in summer (household temperatures are fine) and colder in winter months (down to 55˚F/13˚C at night).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer is not necessary.
Propagation
Most Lithops species can be propagated from seeds. Seedlings typically take two to three years to reach maturity and begin flowering.
Repotting
Lithops are very slow growing, small plants, which makes them ideal as houseplants (once you get the hang of their watering schedule). Older plants form attractive clumps of “pebbles” in their pots, which are highly prized. In general, plants should only be repotted if there are cultural problems (soggy soil) or the plant has outgrown its dish container, which will only happen every several years.
Grower’s Tips
Lithops develop a new set of leaves every year, with new leaves emerging in the fall and growing through the winter and into the summer. In late summer, the plant will go dormant and water should be severely restricted to prevent bursting leaves. The flowers appear near the end of summer or fall, first showing up as a small bud forcing its way between the leaves and growth will begin again. It’s safe to water during this period. Heading into the winter, the leaves will still be growing, but you should stop watering, even as the older leaves shrivel up and encase the new growth. In the spring, it’s safe to begin lightly watering again as the plant begins to grow again, heading toward their summer dormancy period and the emergence of new leaves in the fall.
The leaves are extremely thick and the degree of fusion depends on the species. Some species appear to be a single leaf, with hardly any evidence of the leaf fusion, while others are deeply lobed to the level of the soil. These plants are great collectibles, but require a careful hand with the water. Too much water and the leaves will burst or the plant will die from beneath. If you provide them with good conditions, they will flower in mid-to late summer with white and yellow daisy-like flowers that emerge from between the leaves.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lithops thrive in full sunlight, so provide as much light as possible. Weak light will cause elongated leaves and washed out patterns on the leaves.
Water: Lithops have a definite annual cycle that should be carefully followed. In the summer, as the plants are dormant, it is okay to lightly water them if the leaves shrivel. In general, plants should not be watered during their summer dormancy or during the winter.
Temperature: Warm in summer (household temperatures are fine) and colder in winter months (down to 55˚F/13˚C at night).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilizer is not necessary.
Propagation
Most Lithops species can be propagated from seeds. Seedlings typically take two to three years to reach maturity and begin flowering.
Repotting
Lithops are very slow growing, small plants, which makes them ideal as houseplants (once you get the hang of their watering schedule). Older plants form attractive clumps of “pebbles” in their pots, which are highly prized. In general, plants should only be repotted if there are cultural problems (soggy soil) or the plant has outgrown its dish container, which will only happen every several years.
Grower’s Tips
Lithops develop a new set of leaves every year, with new leaves emerging in the fall and growing through the winter and into the summer. In late summer, the plant will go dormant and water should be severely restricted to prevent bursting leaves. The flowers appear near the end of summer or fall, first showing up as a small bud forcing its way between the leaves and growth will begin again. It’s safe to water during this period. Heading into the winter, the leaves will still be growing, but you should stop watering, even as the older leaves shrivel up and encase the new growth. In the spring, it’s safe to begin lightly watering again as the plant begins to grow again, heading toward their summer dormancy period and the emergence of new leaves in the fall.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Go with Compatible Plants
Succulents either grow in the cool or warm seasons. Some grow in October until April when they go dormant. Warm season plants go dormant in October.
Choose the Right Container
Plants with shallow roots or that tend to rot faster do best in low or unglazed containers. Plants with leggy roots or those that require more water thrive in deep containers made of glazed, ceramic, fiberglass or plaster. In “The Plant Recipe Book”, Baylor Chapman has created an easy-to-follow, illustrated guide to creating succulent arrangements at home. She puts succulents in wood frames and boxes, logs and metal vessels, glass cylinders and handmade pottery.
Soil Aeration and Drainage
Bagged cactus mix sold at stores can be too organically rich for most plants so add extra pumice, says Matt Maggio, who creates succulent installations and container gardens for private clients and at Sherman Library and Gardens in Corona del Mar. He recommends two parts cactus mix for every one part pumice.
Matt Maggio’s all-purpose soil recipe: 50-60 percent pumic, 30 percent core (a lightweight substance made of ground coconut husks, which holds moisture and nutrients) and 10-20 percent humus.
Top Covering isn’t Just for Looks
Finishing the surface off with rocks can help control weeds and moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Lining the inside of the pot with bubble wrap helps insulate the plant from excessive heat, which can cause root dieback.
A Break from Mid-Day Sun
In nature, succulents often escape the elements by hiding in the shade of larger plants or rock crevices. So offer your succulent afternoon shade.
Watering Schedule will Vary
Water only during the growing season. “I don’t like to keep the mix wet all the time — you want to let the surface dry out a little bit before you water again”, Maggio says. “Conversely, you don’t want it to get bone dry or you’ll stress the plant. When a plant is water-stressed, it’s going to be dull looking, soft and malleable. When it’s well watered, it’s going to be plump, shiny and firm”.
Succulents either grow in the cool or warm seasons. Some grow in October until April when they go dormant. Warm season plants go dormant in October.
Choose the Right Container
Plants with shallow roots or that tend to rot faster do best in low or unglazed containers. Plants with leggy roots or those that require more water thrive in deep containers made of glazed, ceramic, fiberglass or plaster. In “The Plant Recipe Book”, Baylor Chapman has created an easy-to-follow, illustrated guide to creating succulent arrangements at home. She puts succulents in wood frames and boxes, logs and metal vessels, glass cylinders and handmade pottery.
Soil Aeration and Drainage
Bagged cactus mix sold at stores can be too organically rich for most plants so add extra pumice, says Matt Maggio, who creates succulent installations and container gardens for private clients and at Sherman Library and Gardens in Corona del Mar. He recommends two parts cactus mix for every one part pumice.
Matt Maggio’s all-purpose soil recipe: 50-60 percent pumic, 30 percent core (a lightweight substance made of ground coconut husks, which holds moisture and nutrients) and 10-20 percent humus.
Top Covering isn’t Just for Looks
Finishing the surface off with rocks can help control weeds and moisture, and regulate soil temperature. Lining the inside of the pot with bubble wrap helps insulate the plant from excessive heat, which can cause root dieback.
A Break from Mid-Day Sun
In nature, succulents often escape the elements by hiding in the shade of larger plants or rock crevices. So offer your succulent afternoon shade.
Watering Schedule will Vary
Water only during the growing season. “I don’t like to keep the mix wet all the time — you want to let the surface dry out a little bit before you water again”, Maggio says. “Conversely, you don’t want it to get bone dry or you’ll stress the plant. When a plant is water-stressed, it’s going to be dull looking, soft and malleable. When it’s well watered, it’s going to be plump, shiny and firm”.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The genus Stapelia comprises a challenging and rewarding group of some 50 species of clump-forming stem succulents from southern Africa. The leafless four-angled stems have toothed edges and may be pubescent. Stems grow erect, branching mainly from the base, and may develop a reddish colour in strong sunlight.
Stapelia have unusual, often large five-lobed flowers, which may be red, purple or yellow, often with interesting banded patterns. The surface can be brightly polished or matted with hairs, and most species produce a putrid odour of rotting carrion to attract blow flies as pollinators. This explains their popular name of “Carrion Flowers”. Stapelia erectiflora and Stapelia flavopurpurea have sweetly scented flowers.
The genus Stapelia was historically merged with Orbea. Leach (1975) re-separated Orbea into its own genus.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Several species are fairly easy to grow and Stapelia (Orbea) variegata is a well known cottage windowsill plant. Others, often those with slightly hairy stems and the more unusual flowers, are more challenging and require careful watering (with some fertilizer) during the growing season and complete withdrawal of water during the winter months. A minimum winter temperature of 10°C (50°CF) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry. A heated growing bench or incubator may help delicate plants to get through the colder months. However, many species live under shrubs in habitat and prefer light shade rather than full sun.
A gritty compost is essential, and clay pots are advisable for the more delicate species. Some growers prefer a mineral-only compost to minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems.
Keeping Stapelias and their roots free of pests such as mealy bugs is the real key to success as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. Watering with a good systemic insecticide such as those based on imidachloprid should help to keep plants healthy.
Stapelia have unusual, often large five-lobed flowers, which may be red, purple or yellow, often with interesting banded patterns. The surface can be brightly polished or matted with hairs, and most species produce a putrid odour of rotting carrion to attract blow flies as pollinators. This explains their popular name of “Carrion Flowers”. Stapelia erectiflora and Stapelia flavopurpurea have sweetly scented flowers.
The genus Stapelia was historically merged with Orbea. Leach (1975) re-separated Orbea into its own genus.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Several species are fairly easy to grow and Stapelia (Orbea) variegata is a well known cottage windowsill plant. Others, often those with slightly hairy stems and the more unusual flowers, are more challenging and require careful watering (with some fertilizer) during the growing season and complete withdrawal of water during the winter months. A minimum winter temperature of 10°C (50°CF) is acceptable, providing that plants are kept absolutely dry. A heated growing bench or incubator may help delicate plants to get through the colder months. However, many species live under shrubs in habitat and prefer light shade rather than full sun.
A gritty compost is essential, and clay pots are advisable for the more delicate species. Some growers prefer a mineral-only compost to minimize the chance of fungal attack on the roots. A layer of grit on the surface of the compost prevents moisture from accumulating around the base of the stems.
Keeping Stapelias and their roots free of pests such as mealy bugs is the real key to success as fungal attack often occurs as a result of damage to stems by insects. Watering with a good systemic insecticide such as those based on imidachloprid should help to keep plants healthy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
The Parodia genus includes a multitude of showy and easy-to-grow small ball cacti. After a reorganization of the genus, the Parodia genus now includes plants that were formerly known as Notocactus, Eriocactus, and Brasilicactus. Parodia are native to central South America, where they enjoy somewhat more moisture than most people associate with cacti. They are also not full-sun plants, but especially during the summer months of strong sun they appreciate some daytime shade.
Older plants will frequently produce flowers in yellow, red, orange, or pink, depending on the species. Overall, these are easy and excellent beginning cacti.
Growing Conditions
Light: Parodia typically don’t like direct afternoon sunlight and should be in partial shade through the hottest hours. They can take direct sunlight in the morning and afternoons.
Water: Throughout the growing season (spring and summer) provide regular water to keep the potting soil lightly moist. In the winter, cut back watering and let the soil almost dry between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. These respond especially well to fertilizer. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Parodia cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut section to dry on a paper towel for a few days. Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container. Parodia are also relatively easy to grow from seeds. Once the sprouts have emerged, keep them regularly moist for the few months and be prepared to wait: some of the more common Parodia species can take a long time to grow to a decent size.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Parodia without too much trouble. It’s key to remember, however, that Parodia don’t like direct sunlight and are accustomed to more even water than many other cacti species. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back watering. Unlike other cacti species, however, you don’t need to entirely stop watering. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
Older plants will frequently produce flowers in yellow, red, orange, or pink, depending on the species. Overall, these are easy and excellent beginning cacti.
Growing Conditions
Light: Parodia typically don’t like direct afternoon sunlight and should be in partial shade through the hottest hours. They can take direct sunlight in the morning and afternoons.
Water: Throughout the growing season (spring and summer) provide regular water to keep the potting soil lightly moist. In the winter, cut back watering and let the soil almost dry between waterings, but do not let it completely dry out.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. These respond especially well to fertilizer. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Parodia cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily form in clusters around the base of the mother plant. To propagate, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut section to dry on a paper towel for a few days. Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container. Parodia are also relatively easy to grow from seeds. Once the sprouts have emerged, keep them regularly moist for the few months and be prepared to wait: some of the more common Parodia species can take a long time to grow to a decent size.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Parodia without too much trouble. It’s key to remember, however, that Parodia don’t like direct sunlight and are accustomed to more even water than many other cacti species. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. To encourage better flowering, allow the plants to enjoy a cooling period in the winter and dramatically cut back watering. Unlike other cacti species, however, you don’t need to entirely stop watering. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Disocactus is a genus of epiphytic cacti in the tribe Hylocereeae found in Central America, the Caribbean and northern South America. It should not be confused with Discocactus, which is a different genus.
Species of Disocactus grow in tropical regions either on trees as epiphytes or on rocks as lithophytes. They have two distinct growth habits. Species such as D. phyllanthoides have stems which are round at the base but then become flattened and leaf-like. Other species, such as D. flagelliformis have stems which are round throughout their length.
Many of the cultivated plants known as Epiphyllum hybrids or just Epiphyllums are derived from crosses between species of Disocactus (rather than Epiphyllum) and other genera in the Hylocereeae.
Growing Conditions
Light: Like all cacti, give them lots of direct sunlight, especially during the summer.
Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering; from October to March and waterings should be rather abundant, so that the soil becomes completely soaked, but let dry between watering. Keep relatively dry in winter or when night temperatures remain below 10° C.
Soil: Well-drained soil is best, and most Disocactus perform well in a soil that contains some organic material.
Propagation
Disocactus can be reproduced both by seeds and cuttings.
Grower’s Tips
Disocactus should be grown in a rich but still well draining soil. They should be watered regularly and fertilized as well. This is essential for good growth and flowering. Disocactus dislike extreme heat and cold, so they are best green-housed during the depth of winter and heat of summer in hot dry climates. They also prefer shade to sun, and like a little extra humidity in the air. Flowering in spring and summer the flower color varies from white, yellow red or purple depending on species.
Species of Disocactus grow in tropical regions either on trees as epiphytes or on rocks as lithophytes. They have two distinct growth habits. Species such as D. phyllanthoides have stems which are round at the base but then become flattened and leaf-like. Other species, such as D. flagelliformis have stems which are round throughout their length.
Many of the cultivated plants known as Epiphyllum hybrids or just Epiphyllums are derived from crosses between species of Disocactus (rather than Epiphyllum) and other genera in the Hylocereeae.
Growing Conditions
Light: Like all cacti, give them lots of direct sunlight, especially during the summer.
Water: During the growing period the plants need frequent watering; from October to March and waterings should be rather abundant, so that the soil becomes completely soaked, but let dry between watering. Keep relatively dry in winter or when night temperatures remain below 10° C.
Soil: Well-drained soil is best, and most Disocactus perform well in a soil that contains some organic material.
Propagation
Disocactus can be reproduced both by seeds and cuttings.
Grower’s Tips
Disocactus should be grown in a rich but still well draining soil. They should be watered regularly and fertilized as well. This is essential for good growth and flowering. Disocactus dislike extreme heat and cold, so they are best green-housed during the depth of winter and heat of summer in hot dry climates. They also prefer shade to sun, and like a little extra humidity in the air. Flowering in spring and summer the flower color varies from white, yellow red or purple depending on species.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Are you one of those people who hangs his head in shame whenever we tout succulents as the easiest plants to grow? You’re not alone, trust me. Succulents, plants adapted to survive long periods with very little water, play by their own rule book. Here are some tips to help you keep your babies alive.
1. Give Them Breathing Room
While there are a few succulent types that do well indoors (including Aloe and Kalanchoe), the vast majority of these plants hail from warm, arid climates and depend on good air circulation to breathe. So while that succulent terrarium looks adorable, forget about it. You’ll have way more luck keeping your plants outdoors, exposed to the elements.
2. Provide Some Shade
Despite widespread belief, most succulents do not thrive if blasted with the hottest temps and the fullest sun exposure. While they appreciate a lot of light (and very few survive in full shade), most succulents need sun protection, especially if the temperature hits the 90-degree-mark, or if they’re small. Varieties that are solid green, pale, or variegated are most in danger of sun burn. If you are planning to blast your plants with the brightest sun possible, opt for plants that are red, gray, blue, or covered densely with spines (which help to reflect the sun’s rays).
3. Start with the Right Soil
Use a fast-draining cactus mix. Or, if you’re of the DIY persuasion, amend a traditional potting soil with coarse perlite, crushed lava, or pumice. A good recipe is one part amendment and four parts potting mix.
4. Low-water isn’t No-water
Perhaps you’ve killed your succulents by overwatering them (far more common than under-watering) which causes rot. But maybe you’ve already gotten the memo, are diligently dehydrating your plants, and wonder why they are dying. Well, newsflash—they need some water. Succulents like it when soil approaches dry before being watered. But what does this mean, you ask? It means you’ll likely be a-ok if, during dry times, if you water small pots about once a week and large pots about every two weeks.
5. Include Drainage
Remember—succulent roots hate excess water. Be sure there’s drainage in your container. Ok, ok—you’ve caught me in a lie. We sometimes create pretty centerpieces in pots with no drainage. But listen—you’ve got to water these compositions especially lightly. And you have to follow all of the other rules.
6. Succulents Need Food, Too
A once-yearly feeding is enough. Use any well-balanced organic fertilizer, cut the dose in half, and feed at the beginning of the plant’s growing season for best results.
7. Rethink Propagation
While you might be accustomed to plucking a stem of your favorite geranium, rosemary bush, or houseplant and dunking it in water to watch roots grow, that won’t work for propagating succulents. You can actually practice the exact opposite method. When you’ve got a plant you like, pluck a stem and let it dry out in the shade for at least 3 days. This process, known as healing, helps form a callus, preventing rot. Place your new stem in the soil mix mentioned above, and you should be good to go.
8. Beware of Frost
While some succulents, including certain types of Sedum and Sempervivum, can withstand freezing temps, most cannot. When in doubt, assume that any drop below freezing will call damage or death to your plant. The easiest solution for frost protection is to keep plants in containers that are light enough to move indoors or under awnings when a cold snap is predicted. Also, unlike the rest of your garden, succulents actually have a greater chance of survival if they’re dry before a cold snap, not wet.
1. Give Them Breathing Room
While there are a few succulent types that do well indoors (including Aloe and Kalanchoe), the vast majority of these plants hail from warm, arid climates and depend on good air circulation to breathe. So while that succulent terrarium looks adorable, forget about it. You’ll have way more luck keeping your plants outdoors, exposed to the elements.
2. Provide Some Shade
Despite widespread belief, most succulents do not thrive if blasted with the hottest temps and the fullest sun exposure. While they appreciate a lot of light (and very few survive in full shade), most succulents need sun protection, especially if the temperature hits the 90-degree-mark, or if they’re small. Varieties that are solid green, pale, or variegated are most in danger of sun burn. If you are planning to blast your plants with the brightest sun possible, opt for plants that are red, gray, blue, or covered densely with spines (which help to reflect the sun’s rays).
3. Start with the Right Soil
Use a fast-draining cactus mix. Or, if you’re of the DIY persuasion, amend a traditional potting soil with coarse perlite, crushed lava, or pumice. A good recipe is one part amendment and four parts potting mix.
4. Low-water isn’t No-water
Perhaps you’ve killed your succulents by overwatering them (far more common than under-watering) which causes rot. But maybe you’ve already gotten the memo, are diligently dehydrating your plants, and wonder why they are dying. Well, newsflash—they need some water. Succulents like it when soil approaches dry before being watered. But what does this mean, you ask? It means you’ll likely be a-ok if, during dry times, if you water small pots about once a week and large pots about every two weeks.
5. Include Drainage
Remember—succulent roots hate excess water. Be sure there’s drainage in your container. Ok, ok—you’ve caught me in a lie. We sometimes create pretty centerpieces in pots with no drainage. But listen—you’ve got to water these compositions especially lightly. And you have to follow all of the other rules.
6. Succulents Need Food, Too
A once-yearly feeding is enough. Use any well-balanced organic fertilizer, cut the dose in half, and feed at the beginning of the plant’s growing season for best results.
7. Rethink Propagation
While you might be accustomed to plucking a stem of your favorite geranium, rosemary bush, or houseplant and dunking it in water to watch roots grow, that won’t work for propagating succulents. You can actually practice the exact opposite method. When you’ve got a plant you like, pluck a stem and let it dry out in the shade for at least 3 days. This process, known as healing, helps form a callus, preventing rot. Place your new stem in the soil mix mentioned above, and you should be good to go.
8. Beware of Frost
While some succulents, including certain types of Sedum and Sempervivum, can withstand freezing temps, most cannot. When in doubt, assume that any drop below freezing will call damage or death to your plant. The easiest solution for frost protection is to keep plants in containers that are light enough to move indoors or under awnings when a cold snap is predicted. Also, unlike the rest of your garden, succulents actually have a greater chance of survival if they’re dry before a cold snap, not wet.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Conophytum are a group of miniature succulents prized by enthusiasts for their wide variety of forms, textures, and colors. Typically, they form clusters or grow in mats but some species are solitary. Bodies can be conical, oblong, or cylindrical, spotted or lined, velvety, warty, or windowed, and range in color from various shades of green and blue-green to brown and red. Some species are mistaken for Lithops. Anatomically, they are distinguished by conically united leaves and by their petals, which are fused into a basal tube, unlike most mesembs. Most conos flower in the autumn and display a rainbow range of colors. They can be divided into night-blooming, twilight-blooming, and day-blooming species. The flowers of some species are also scented.
Growing Conditions
Light: The Conophytum require a very bright environment and even a few hours of full sun, in cooler moments of the day to avoid sunburn. At the end of the dormant season the plants must gradually accustomed to the increase of brightness.
Water: After they bloom in October/November mist every other week. When active growth resumes in late spring water about once per week until summer. Plants may go dormant in heat, water no more than every three weeks. During active growth, if leaves start to retract into soil or wrinkle, it needs watering.
Soil: The types of soil suitable to this genus are various and different for each species because of the great diversity of different specimens; the common feature is, however, the high drainage capacity and good porosity.
Fertilizer: Light feeders, may not need fertilizer for three years after potting or at all if you repot every two years. Fertilize at the beginning of the growth period and just before flowering.
General Care
Conophytums are usually grown in dish gardens where they spread slowly but make good ornamental plants for window gardening. They also do well in rockeries where they can be grown in crevices.
The Conophytum vegetate during the winter season. They must then be kept dry during hot, gradually wet upon autumn arrival: the moisture stimulate the release of new root hairs and the plant will grow for the entire winter season, foliar issuing new pairs from inside the existing ones. Flowering usually occurs in autumn and the color of the flowers is extremely variable from species to species. The cultivation is quite easy, but care must be taken to avoid excess water and to prevent rot: the plants themselves communicate their water needings with a slight wrinkling of the epidermis. They do not particularly fear the cold weather and can resist also at temperatures of 23°F (-5°C), as long as the soil is completely dry and the temperature returns rapidly to rise.
Propagation
Propagation can be made from seed or by cuttings: seed germination is quite easy (see the germination rate of our seeds), but the young seedlings are very sensitive to humidity and need a special and constant care and constant to raise them correctly.
Growing Conditions
Light: The Conophytum require a very bright environment and even a few hours of full sun, in cooler moments of the day to avoid sunburn. At the end of the dormant season the plants must gradually accustomed to the increase of brightness.
Water: After they bloom in October/November mist every other week. When active growth resumes in late spring water about once per week until summer. Plants may go dormant in heat, water no more than every three weeks. During active growth, if leaves start to retract into soil or wrinkle, it needs watering.
Soil: The types of soil suitable to this genus are various and different for each species because of the great diversity of different specimens; the common feature is, however, the high drainage capacity and good porosity.
Fertilizer: Light feeders, may not need fertilizer for three years after potting or at all if you repot every two years. Fertilize at the beginning of the growth period and just before flowering.
General Care
Conophytums are usually grown in dish gardens where they spread slowly but make good ornamental plants for window gardening. They also do well in rockeries where they can be grown in crevices.
The Conophytum vegetate during the winter season. They must then be kept dry during hot, gradually wet upon autumn arrival: the moisture stimulate the release of new root hairs and the plant will grow for the entire winter season, foliar issuing new pairs from inside the existing ones. Flowering usually occurs in autumn and the color of the flowers is extremely variable from species to species. The cultivation is quite easy, but care must be taken to avoid excess water and to prevent rot: the plants themselves communicate their water needings with a slight wrinkling of the epidermis. They do not particularly fear the cold weather and can resist also at temperatures of 23°F (-5°C), as long as the soil is completely dry and the temperature returns rapidly to rise.
Propagation
Propagation can be made from seed or by cuttings: seed germination is quite easy (see the germination rate of our seeds), but the young seedlings are very sensitive to humidity and need a special and constant care and constant to raise them correctly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Melocactus is a genus of especially aesthetically interesting cacti, distinguishable by their odd cephalium that protrudes from the top. The cephalium, which is a bristly collection of aureoles, is designed to produce flowers and fruit and can grow up to three feet tall in some cases. Cephaliums are red or white and form small pink flowers inside their mass, and their fruits are waxy and shaped like tubes.
Because of their appearance, Melocactus are popular cacti in cultivation. They are native to places with high temperatures and cannot tolerate frost: in the wild, they grow in various parts of the Caribbean, South America (especially Brazil), and Mexico. Notably, Melocactus plants only develop their distinctive look once they reach maturity.
In the beginning of their lives, their appearance is typical of most cacti—they’re globular and ribbed all over with aureoles. They only develop the cephalium once they’re fully developed, and once it begins growing it won’t stop until the plant itself dies. So they can be hard to identify before they’ve reached maturity. They can be a bit of challenge due to some specificities in their care requirements and are a better choice for experienced cactus growers: nonetheless, they are quite beautiful and extraordinary once fully grown.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lots and lots of bright sunlight is necessary for Melocactus to thrive.
Water: For cacti, they like fairly moist environments, so water regularly, especially during the growing season. Make sure not to let them sit in water to avoid rotting the roots.
Temperature: Warm tropical temperatures above seventy degrees. They cannot survive frost.
Soil: Most cactus potting mixes should work fine, ideally a well-draining mix with some organic material.
Fertilizer: Feed with a balanced, diluted fertilizer like a 20-20-20 mixed into their water during the growing season to help them develop.
Propagation
These cacti are not difficult to propagate from seed. Plant the seeds in well-aerated soil that drains well, and make sure to soak them in warm water before you do. Then seal the new seeds to keep in heat and moisture, which will help them root. Their root systems will take a little while to develop, so don’t overwater or overfeed them before they have the necessary equipment. Remember, always use fresh seed—it should be dry when you get it, before it’s soaked.
Repotting
Notably, Melocactus like to be fairly packed in, so keep them in a fairly small container that slightly constricts their roots. Repotting them at the beginning of the growing season is a good idea until they form cephaliums and the body stops growing, and they should be repotted like other cacti: by lifting the root ball out all at once, cleaning it gently, and replacing it. Make sure not to replant in too large a container to avoid damaging the plant.
Grower’s Tips
These are somewhat finicky cacti with unusual requirements. They shouldn’t be allowed to completely dry out, even in winter, and they can suffer from soil composition, drainage, water level, sun, and more factors that are difficult to control. For that reason, these plants are best for growers who already have had some success cultivating cacti. Establish a balance with good aeration matched by ample water, good soil matched by good drainage, and these plants should continue to grow. If they’re grown successfully, their unusual tops make them among the more beautiful of desert cacti.
Because of their appearance, Melocactus are popular cacti in cultivation. They are native to places with high temperatures and cannot tolerate frost: in the wild, they grow in various parts of the Caribbean, South America (especially Brazil), and Mexico. Notably, Melocactus plants only develop their distinctive look once they reach maturity.
In the beginning of their lives, their appearance is typical of most cacti—they’re globular and ribbed all over with aureoles. They only develop the cephalium once they’re fully developed, and once it begins growing it won’t stop until the plant itself dies. So they can be hard to identify before they’ve reached maturity. They can be a bit of challenge due to some specificities in their care requirements and are a better choice for experienced cactus growers: nonetheless, they are quite beautiful and extraordinary once fully grown.
Growing Conditions
Light: Lots and lots of bright sunlight is necessary for Melocactus to thrive.
Water: For cacti, they like fairly moist environments, so water regularly, especially during the growing season. Make sure not to let them sit in water to avoid rotting the roots.
Temperature: Warm tropical temperatures above seventy degrees. They cannot survive frost.
Soil: Most cactus potting mixes should work fine, ideally a well-draining mix with some organic material.
Fertilizer: Feed with a balanced, diluted fertilizer like a 20-20-20 mixed into their water during the growing season to help them develop.
Propagation
These cacti are not difficult to propagate from seed. Plant the seeds in well-aerated soil that drains well, and make sure to soak them in warm water before you do. Then seal the new seeds to keep in heat and moisture, which will help them root. Their root systems will take a little while to develop, so don’t overwater or overfeed them before they have the necessary equipment. Remember, always use fresh seed—it should be dry when you get it, before it’s soaked.
Repotting
Notably, Melocactus like to be fairly packed in, so keep them in a fairly small container that slightly constricts their roots. Repotting them at the beginning of the growing season is a good idea until they form cephaliums and the body stops growing, and they should be repotted like other cacti: by lifting the root ball out all at once, cleaning it gently, and replacing it. Make sure not to replant in too large a container to avoid damaging the plant.
Grower’s Tips
These are somewhat finicky cacti with unusual requirements. They shouldn’t be allowed to completely dry out, even in winter, and they can suffer from soil composition, drainage, water level, sun, and more factors that are difficult to control. For that reason, these plants are best for growers who already have had some success cultivating cacti. Establish a balance with good aeration matched by ample water, good soil matched by good drainage, and these plants should continue to grow. If they’re grown successfully, their unusual tops make them among the more beautiful of desert cacti.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Commonly called crown cacti, the Rebutia genus includes some of the most popular and easiest to grow cacti, making them perfect for beginnings. These plants are native to high elevations in South America, where they grow in clusters on the mountains. They are frequent bloomers and readily send out offshoots, so even plants only two or three years old will form an attractive cluster of small plants.
Their flowers typically emerge from the base of the plant or between individual plants in the same cluster, as opposed to the crown of the plant. In terms of culture, they are not particularly difficult and like bright light and light moisture.
Growing Conditions
Light: Rebutia thrive in bright light and range of conditions. Many species can be grown in partial shade to full sun. However, as these are mountain species, they do not appreciate high temperatures, which should be avoided.
Water: Throughout the growing season (spring and summer) let the potting soil almost completely dry out between waterings, then water thoroughly. In winter, cut back watering.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Rebutia cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily in clusters around the base of the mother plant. Once your plant has gained a decent size and has sent out several offsets, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut to dry on a paper towel for a few days.
Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Rebutia without too much trouble. Their water and light requirements are fairly typical for many cacti species, including a cooling period in the winter to promote better blooming. Watering should be done carefully, allowing the plant to almost dry out between waterings. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. For the best viewing, instead of propagating your offsets, let the plant for a large cluster. When it blooms, this will make a truly beautiful display. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
Their flowers typically emerge from the base of the plant or between individual plants in the same cluster, as opposed to the crown of the plant. In terms of culture, they are not particularly difficult and like bright light and light moisture.
Growing Conditions
Light: Rebutia thrive in bright light and range of conditions. Many species can be grown in partial shade to full sun. However, as these are mountain species, they do not appreciate high temperatures, which should be avoided.
Water: Throughout the growing season (spring and summer) let the potting soil almost completely dry out between waterings, then water thoroughly. In winter, cut back watering.
Soil: A rich, fast-draining cactus mix is ideal.
Fertilizer: During the growing season, fertilize with a cacti fertilizer mix. Suspend feeding during the dormant winter period.
Propagation
Rebutia cacti can be propagated easily from offsets, which readily in clusters around the base of the mother plant. Once your plant has gained a decent size and has sent out several offsets, carefully remove the offset and allow the cut to dry on a paper towel for a few days.
Depending on the size of the cut area, a callous will form over the cut surface. Once the callous has formed, place the new plant in a pot with a potting soil mixture and keep in a warm place until new roots emerge. Once the plant is established, repot it into a regular container.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a cacti, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide. Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot. Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Grower’s Tips
If you can grow cacti and succulents successfully, you can likely grow the popular Rebutia without too much trouble. Their water and light requirements are fairly typical for many cacti species, including a cooling period in the winter to promote better blooming. Watering should be done carefully, allowing the plant to almost dry out between waterings. It’s imperative that the cactus is not exposed to prolonged dampness and sitting water. Never let your cactus sit in a dish of water. For the best viewing, instead of propagating your offsets, let the plant for a large cluster. When it blooms, this will make a truly beautiful display. Lastly, make sure to fertilizer during the growing season for the best results.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月20日
Discocactus is a genus of cacti, highly prized by collectors around the globe. Exactly what it is that makes them so attractive is uncertain. Some of the factors are likely their relatively compact size, unique and showy white flowers, and their slow growth. The species within this genus are flattened to globose in shape with stems that hardly exceed 3 inches (7.5 cm) in height and are less than 10 inches (25 cm) in diameter. Stems are ribbed and sometimes tuberculate with fuzzy areoles or dense spines. Most plants remain single, but may form clumps. Flowering plants form a wooly terminal cephalium out of which rise the flowers on the end of a long, thin floral tube. The nocturnal flowers are highly fragrant and touted by many growers as the best smelling of all cactus flowers. Discocactus blooms in summer, on and off. The flowers are generally white and open in late afternoon until the following morning.
Growing Conditions
Light: Discocactus will take full sun, but prefers a little shade in the afternoon.
Water: Water with extreme care after the compost has dried out.
Temperature: During the rest period should be kept at above 59°F (15°C) if grown on its own roots (46°F/8°C if grafted).
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, 50% compost to 50% gravel, perlite or pumice.
Grower’s Tips
This is probably one of the most difficult cacti to keep growing on its own roots and is almost always seen as a grafted plant. If growing on its own roots is attempted the soil must be extremely free draining, and watering should only take place after the compost has dried out and then only on sunny and warm days. Discocactus are tropical species, and should be kept warm in winter. The grafted plants are less cold sensitive, but none has any frost tolerance. Mature Discocactus stop growing, and instead divert their energy into growing a cephalium. The cephalium is a specialized flowering head, generally covered with fibers.
Growing Conditions
Light: Discocactus will take full sun, but prefers a little shade in the afternoon.
Water: Water with extreme care after the compost has dried out.
Temperature: During the rest period should be kept at above 59°F (15°C) if grown on its own roots (46°F/8°C if grafted).
Soil: The balance of the potting medium should be sufficient to allow good drainage, 50% compost to 50% gravel, perlite or pumice.
Grower’s Tips
This is probably one of the most difficult cacti to keep growing on its own roots and is almost always seen as a grafted plant. If growing on its own roots is attempted the soil must be extremely free draining, and watering should only take place after the compost has dried out and then only on sunny and warm days. Discocactus are tropical species, and should be kept warm in winter. The grafted plants are less cold sensitive, but none has any frost tolerance. Mature Discocactus stop growing, and instead divert their energy into growing a cephalium. The cephalium is a specialized flowering head, generally covered with fibers.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Myrtillocactus is a genus of cacti found from Mexico to Guatemala. The genus is best known with Myrtillocactus geometrizans. The largest plants in this genus can grow up to 16.5 feet (5 m) tall. Myrtillocactus tends to flower in the summer. After the greenish white flowers, this cactus will produce blue berries, hence the nickname Blueberry Cactus, which are eaten as a snack in Mexico.
Growing Conditions
Temperature: They are semi hardy, make sure that your Myrtillocactus are not exposed to temperatures below 25°F (-4°C) or they may die, nevertheless it is a good advice never let the nighttime’s temperatures fall below 50°F (10°C).
Light: In the summer place Myrtillocactus in the sunshine (indoors or outdoors). In the winter find a cooler, light spot. That will allow it to go into next spring well-rested, which will make it more likely to flower.
Water: This easy-care plant doesn’t want a lot of water. Allow the soil to dry out before you give it another drink. Keep the soil completely dry in winter.
Soil: Very free draining open compost.
Fertilizer: Treat it to special cactus food once a month in the spring and summer.
Repotting
If the plant needs repotting, use a fairly impoverished soil specially designed for cacti.
Propagation
By seed or cutting (allow the cut surface to dry out for 2-3 weeks before placing in an open rooting media). The cuttings, which will grow quickly, from this cactus must be taken when the temperature is high enough or the cuttings won’t root.
Growing Conditions
Temperature: They are semi hardy, make sure that your Myrtillocactus are not exposed to temperatures below 25°F (-4°C) or they may die, nevertheless it is a good advice never let the nighttime’s temperatures fall below 50°F (10°C).
Light: In the summer place Myrtillocactus in the sunshine (indoors or outdoors). In the winter find a cooler, light spot. That will allow it to go into next spring well-rested, which will make it more likely to flower.
Water: This easy-care plant doesn’t want a lot of water. Allow the soil to dry out before you give it another drink. Keep the soil completely dry in winter.
Soil: Very free draining open compost.
Fertilizer: Treat it to special cactus food once a month in the spring and summer.
Repotting
If the plant needs repotting, use a fairly impoverished soil specially designed for cacti.
Propagation
By seed or cutting (allow the cut surface to dry out for 2-3 weeks before placing in an open rooting media). The cuttings, which will grow quickly, from this cactus must be taken when the temperature is high enough or the cuttings won’t root.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Yet another wildflower favorite and must have for the garden is the Tradescantia (Spiderwort) plant. These interesting flowers not only offer something different to the landscape but are extremely easy to grow and care for.
So how did such a lovely plant get such an unusual common name? While no one may know for certain, some people think the plant was named for the way its flowers hang down like spiders. Others believe it comes from its medicinal properties, as it was once used to treat spider bites. At any rate, it’s well worth having in the garden.
The three-petaled Tradescantia flowers are usually blue to purple, but may also be pink, white or red. They only remain open for a day (blooming in morning hours and closing at night), but the multiple flowers will continually bloom for up to four to six weeks in summer. The plant’s foliage consists of arching grass-like leaves that will grow about a foot or two in height, depending on the variety.
Since Tradescantia plants grow in clumps, they’re great for use in borders, edging, woodland gardens and even containers. You can even grow it as an indoor plant if garden space is limited.
Growing Conditions
Growing Tradescantia is easy and you’ll find the plants to be quite resilient. They’re hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9 and will tolerate more than what one would expect. Tradescantia typically grow in moist, well-drained and acidic (pH 5 to 6) soil, though I have found the plants to be quite forgiving in the garden and tolerant of many soil conditions. Tradescantia plants do best in partial shade but will do equally well in sunny areas as long as the soil is kept moist.
Propagation
Tradescantia can be grown from purchased plants or propagated through division, cuttings or seed. Plant them in spring about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) deep and 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart. Stem cuttings in summer or fall will easily root in soil. Seeds can be sown outdoors in either fall or early spring and should be lightly covered.
If starting Tradescantia seeds indoors, do so about eight weeks prior to transplanting outside. It should take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks for germination to occur. Hardened seedlings can be transplanted outdoors about a week after the last spring frost.
Tradescantia as an Indoor Plant
You can grow Tradescantia indoors too as long as suitable conditions are given. Provide the plant with either a soilless mix or loam-based potting compost and keep it in bright filtered light. You should also pinch out the growing tips to encourage bushier growth.
Allow it to spend warm spring and summers days outdoors, if feasible. During its active growth, water moderately and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every four weeks. Water sparingly in winter.
Grower’s Tips
These plants like to be kept fairly moist, so water regularly, especially if you’re growing them in containers. Cutting the plants back once flowering has ceased can often promote a second bloom and will help prevent re-seeding. Cut the stems back about 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) from the ground.
Since Tradescantia is a vigorous grower, it’s probably a good idea to divide the plants in spring every three years or so.
So how did such a lovely plant get such an unusual common name? While no one may know for certain, some people think the plant was named for the way its flowers hang down like spiders. Others believe it comes from its medicinal properties, as it was once used to treat spider bites. At any rate, it’s well worth having in the garden.
The three-petaled Tradescantia flowers are usually blue to purple, but may also be pink, white or red. They only remain open for a day (blooming in morning hours and closing at night), but the multiple flowers will continually bloom for up to four to six weeks in summer. The plant’s foliage consists of arching grass-like leaves that will grow about a foot or two in height, depending on the variety.
Since Tradescantia plants grow in clumps, they’re great for use in borders, edging, woodland gardens and even containers. You can even grow it as an indoor plant if garden space is limited.
Growing Conditions
Growing Tradescantia is easy and you’ll find the plants to be quite resilient. They’re hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 4-9 and will tolerate more than what one would expect. Tradescantia typically grow in moist, well-drained and acidic (pH 5 to 6) soil, though I have found the plants to be quite forgiving in the garden and tolerant of many soil conditions. Tradescantia plants do best in partial shade but will do equally well in sunny areas as long as the soil is kept moist.
Propagation
Tradescantia can be grown from purchased plants or propagated through division, cuttings or seed. Plant them in spring about 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) deep and 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) apart. Stem cuttings in summer or fall will easily root in soil. Seeds can be sown outdoors in either fall or early spring and should be lightly covered.
If starting Tradescantia seeds indoors, do so about eight weeks prior to transplanting outside. It should take anywhere from 10 days to six weeks for germination to occur. Hardened seedlings can be transplanted outdoors about a week after the last spring frost.
Tradescantia as an Indoor Plant
You can grow Tradescantia indoors too as long as suitable conditions are given. Provide the plant with either a soilless mix or loam-based potting compost and keep it in bright filtered light. You should also pinch out the growing tips to encourage bushier growth.
Allow it to spend warm spring and summers days outdoors, if feasible. During its active growth, water moderately and apply a balanced liquid fertilizer every four weeks. Water sparingly in winter.
Grower’s Tips
These plants like to be kept fairly moist, so water regularly, especially if you’re growing them in containers. Cutting the plants back once flowering has ceased can often promote a second bloom and will help prevent re-seeding. Cut the stems back about 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) from the ground.
Since Tradescantia is a vigorous grower, it’s probably a good idea to divide the plants in spring every three years or so.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
The Saguaro Cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) sports a medium-green, furrowed trunk with gray spikes. Saguaro Cacti grow very slowly and have a mature height of up to 50 feet (15 m). These cacti make a bold statement in the landscape with their stiff arms and coarse texture. Hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness plant zones 9 and 10, Saguaro Cacti require full sunlight and extremely fast-draining soil. Planting a young nursery-grown specimen, 3 feet (90 cm) or less in height, is the best way to introduce one of these succulents into your yard. Raising a Saguaro Cactus is extremely easy, as they requiring only infrequent supplemental watering after planting.
1. Dig a hole with a shovel in the southernmost portion of your landscape for the Saguaro Cactus. Fashion the hole twice as wide and equal in depth to the plant’s root ball. Remove any rocks from the hole and displaced soil.
2. Wear heavy gloves when handling the Saguaro Cactus to avoid injury. Look for markings on the pot that indicate which side of the plant was previously growing facing the south. Remove the cactus carefully from its pot.
3. Place the plant in the center of the hole, positioning its southern side facing the southern exposure in your landscape. Add or remove soil from the hole’s bottom as needed to ensure that the root ball’s top is level with the surrounding ground. Fill the hole with soil, tamping it down periodically around the roots. Do not plant the cactus deeper than it was previously growing.
4. Flood the area with water from a garden hose immediately after planting. Water the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Wait for the water to drain down through the soil. Fill in any resulting depressions in the planting area with additional soil if needed.
5. Cover the Saguaro with a 50 percent shade cloth to protect its flesh from burning in the sun while the plant establishes new roots. Remove the shade cloth after one year of growth.
6. Water the Saguaro Cactus once every four weeks only if rainfall is absent during that time. Do not allow the soil to become soggy by watering too frequently, as this will cause the roots to rot. Never water the soil if it is damp to the touch.
1. Dig a hole with a shovel in the southernmost portion of your landscape for the Saguaro Cactus. Fashion the hole twice as wide and equal in depth to the plant’s root ball. Remove any rocks from the hole and displaced soil.
2. Wear heavy gloves when handling the Saguaro Cactus to avoid injury. Look for markings on the pot that indicate which side of the plant was previously growing facing the south. Remove the cactus carefully from its pot.
3. Place the plant in the center of the hole, positioning its southern side facing the southern exposure in your landscape. Add or remove soil from the hole’s bottom as needed to ensure that the root ball’s top is level with the surrounding ground. Fill the hole with soil, tamping it down periodically around the roots. Do not plant the cactus deeper than it was previously growing.
4. Flood the area with water from a garden hose immediately after planting. Water the soil to a depth of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). Wait for the water to drain down through the soil. Fill in any resulting depressions in the planting area with additional soil if needed.
5. Cover the Saguaro with a 50 percent shade cloth to protect its flesh from burning in the sun while the plant establishes new roots. Remove the shade cloth after one year of growth.
6. Water the Saguaro Cactus once every four weeks only if rainfall is absent during that time. Do not allow the soil to become soggy by watering too frequently, as this will cause the roots to rot. Never water the soil if it is damp to the touch.
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