文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Widely distributed throughout North America, the cabbage looper (Trichoplusia ni) is a common and destructive pest most often found on cabbage-family, or cole crops. The larger its larvae grow the more damage they do. In the larval stage, cabbage loopers eat three-times their body weight in plant material a day, doing the most harm during the last few days of their development.
Loopers, commonly known as inch worms, are most easily recognized by their unique method of movement in which they double up or “loop” as they inch along. This characteristic trait comes from the absence of legs at the looping segments. The six-legged looper could use the eight that other leaf worms have.
Larvae are large (1-1/2 inch long), pale green caterpillars with a narrow white stripe along each side and several narrow lines down the back. Adults are night-flying, gray moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with a silvery, V-shaped spot in the middle of each dusky forewing.
Discerning cabbage loopers from the larvae of garden webworms, diamond back moths, and other inch worm type larvae is not critical to their mangement. The same integrated pest management practices work on them all.
Life Cycle
Pupae spend winter attached to host plants or in nearby garden debris. Moths emerge in the spring and become widely dispersed including north into areas too cold for winter survival. The moths deposit pale green, domed eggs on the plants. The eggs hatch in 3 or 4 days. The destructive larval stage reaches full development in 2-4 weeks. They pupate in thin silk cocoons attached to the stems or undersides of leaves, and adults emerge within 10 days. Loopers as far north as Canada will go through two to three generations in a year and several generations per year are possible in warmer areas.
Damage
Cabbage loopers occur as far south as Mexico and are established in commercial fields with insufficient rotation there and in the U.S. They mainly attack cabbage crops including broccoli, cauliflower and kale. Young larvae eat only from the bottom of leaves. Older larvae chew large, irregular holes in the leaves of many plants. Loopers bore into the center of cabbage heads leaving behind masses of wet, slimy fecal matter. Once established, loopers are difficult to get rid of. In addition to cruciferous plants, cabbage loopers will also attack lettuce, spinach, celery, cucumbers, and tomatoes. Each year, large amounts of pesticides are targeted at loopers on commercial fields, causing serious degradation of water and soil.
Cabbage Looper Control
Cabbage looper damage becomes ruinous at some point. Many gardeners tolerate a single tunnel into a cabbage (PDF) or irregular scars on their Brussel sprouts. This kind of damage may be unavoidable in the organic garden. But it’s important to take action at that point before eggs hatch and a second generation prepares to make slaw of what’s left. And an ounce of prevention? Well, you know what it’s worth.
Keep a close, frequent eye on your cabbage plants, both outside and under leaves. Pick off the hungry, inching larvae and brush off eggs before they start an outbreak. The larvae can be drowned in a jar of soapy water for easy disposal.
Cabbage looper larvae are easy, visible targets for predators. Take advantage of its many natural enemies by encouraging birds and beneficial insects to your garden. Certain herbs, including parsley, dill, fennel, coriander and sweet alyssum, attract the kinds of insects and other creatures that prey on worms.
Use pheromone traps to signal the arrival of moths to your garden.
Cover plants with floating row covers to keep migrating moths from landing and laying eggs. This can make a significant difference if timed correctly.
Wasps are the looper larvae’s biggest enemy. Release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs.
The natural, soil dwelling bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis or Bt-kurstaki is particularly effective on inch worms of all types. Use easily applied spray to hit worms and protect the leaves at the first signs of damage. BTK sprays do not harm honey bees or birds and are safe for use around pets and children.
Spinosad, another biological agent derived from fermentation, is also very effective. It’s the active ingredient in Monterey Garden Insect Spray, a product classified as organic by the U.S.D.A. National Organic Program and listed for organic use by the Organic Materials Review Institute.
Other botanical insecticides, like Safer’s Tomato & Vegetable Insect Killer or Pyrethrin Spray, can be used as a last resort.
After harvest, bury spent cole crops to destroy cocoons before adults emerge in spring.
Rotating cabbage crops in a family sized garden is a good idea but not necessarily effective in preventing loopers on your plants. The night flying moths disperse widely and will find your vegetables no matter how far you’ve moved them. That’s why floating row covers to keep moths from landing on leaves and depositing eggs, are a good idea.
Loopers, commonly known as inch worms, are most easily recognized by their unique method of movement in which they double up or “loop” as they inch along. This characteristic trait comes from the absence of legs at the looping segments. The six-legged looper could use the eight that other leaf worms have.
Larvae are large (1-1/2 inch long), pale green caterpillars with a narrow white stripe along each side and several narrow lines down the back. Adults are night-flying, gray moths (1-1/2 inch wingspan) with a silvery, V-shaped spot in the middle of each dusky forewing.
Discerning cabbage loopers from the larvae of garden webworms, diamond back moths, and other inch worm type larvae is not critical to their mangement. The same integrated pest management practices work on them all.
Life Cycle
Pupae spend winter attached to host plants or in nearby garden debris. Moths emerge in the spring and become widely dispersed including north into areas too cold for winter survival. The moths deposit pale green, domed eggs on the plants. The eggs hatch in 3 or 4 days. The destructive larval stage reaches full development in 2-4 weeks. They pupate in thin silk cocoons attached to the stems or undersides of leaves, and adults emerge within 10 days. Loopers as far north as Canada will go through two to three generations in a year and several generations per year are possible in warmer areas.
Damage
Cabbage loopers occur as far south as Mexico and are established in commercial fields with insufficient rotation there and in the U.S. They mainly attack cabbage crops including broccoli, cauliflower and kale. Young larvae eat only from the bottom of leaves. Older larvae chew large, irregular holes in the leaves of many plants. Loopers bore into the center of cabbage heads leaving behind masses of wet, slimy fecal matter. Once established, loopers are difficult to get rid of. In addition to cruciferous plants, cabbage loopers will also attack lettuce, spinach, celery, cucumbers, and tomatoes. Each year, large amounts of pesticides are targeted at loopers on commercial fields, causing serious degradation of water and soil.
Cabbage Looper Control
Cabbage looper damage becomes ruinous at some point. Many gardeners tolerate a single tunnel into a cabbage (PDF) or irregular scars on their Brussel sprouts. This kind of damage may be unavoidable in the organic garden. But it’s important to take action at that point before eggs hatch and a second generation prepares to make slaw of what’s left. And an ounce of prevention? Well, you know what it’s worth.
Keep a close, frequent eye on your cabbage plants, both outside and under leaves. Pick off the hungry, inching larvae and brush off eggs before they start an outbreak. The larvae can be drowned in a jar of soapy water for easy disposal.
Cabbage looper larvae are easy, visible targets for predators. Take advantage of its many natural enemies by encouraging birds and beneficial insects to your garden. Certain herbs, including parsley, dill, fennel, coriander and sweet alyssum, attract the kinds of insects and other creatures that prey on worms.
Use pheromone traps to signal the arrival of moths to your garden.
Cover plants with floating row covers to keep migrating moths from landing and laying eggs. This can make a significant difference if timed correctly.
Wasps are the looper larvae’s biggest enemy. Release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs.
The natural, soil dwelling bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis or Bt-kurstaki is particularly effective on inch worms of all types. Use easily applied spray to hit worms and protect the leaves at the first signs of damage. BTK sprays do not harm honey bees or birds and are safe for use around pets and children.
Spinosad, another biological agent derived from fermentation, is also very effective. It’s the active ingredient in Monterey Garden Insect Spray, a product classified as organic by the U.S.D.A. National Organic Program and listed for organic use by the Organic Materials Review Institute.
Other botanical insecticides, like Safer’s Tomato & Vegetable Insect Killer or Pyrethrin Spray, can be used as a last resort.
After harvest, bury spent cole crops to destroy cocoons before adults emerge in spring.
Rotating cabbage crops in a family sized garden is a good idea but not necessarily effective in preventing loopers on your plants. The night flying moths disperse widely and will find your vegetables no matter how far you’ve moved them. That’s why floating row covers to keep moths from landing on leaves and depositing eggs, are a good idea.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月13日
Description
Black spot is basically what it sounds like: roundish black spots on leaf surfaces. The spots grow over time, and the foliage around the spot yellows. Eventually, the entire leaf falls off.
Damage to Plants
The issue with black spot is that the defoliation that occurs when the fungus is allowed to get out of control weakens the plant. And not just for the current growing season, but for the next season as well.
The main function of plant foliage is to absorb energy from the sun and perform photosynthesis. If your plant loses all or most of its leaves to black spot, it will be unable to collect and store energy for the winter, as well as for the burst of growth that occurs in spring. You'll see weaker growth and reduced bloom in the season following severe black spot damage.
Disease Life Cycle
Black spot spores overwinter on infected foliage and canes, including infected foliage that has fallen and been left on the ground. In spring, spores are splashed up onto newly emerging foliage during rains or irrigation. Once the weather begins to stay consistently warm and humid, the spores germinate and infect the plant within one day. Visible symptoms (black spot and some yellowing) will be evident within five days, and it will produce and spread new spores within ten days. The new spores will infect other parts of the plant, or be carried on the wind to any other nearby rose bushes.
Treatment and Prevention
There are several organic ways to control black spot. Most of them rely on regular monitoring and upkeep. None of them are difficult and can be accomplished while you're admiring your roses.
Plant roses in full sun. If you give your roses a spot where they receive a full six to eight hours of sun per day, you'll not only have plants that grow more robustly, but also plants that are more able to resist black spot. Black spot loves moisture, and, in shade, water evaporates much more slowly. In full sun, evaporation happens more quickly, which not only helps prevent black spot, but other fungal diseases as well.
Plant roses in an area with good air circulation. This accomplishes the same thing as planting in an area with direct sunlight: moisture evaporates more quickly. In addition, with plenty of air circulation, hopefully breezes will blow any newly-germinated black spot spores away from your roses. In an area with poor air circulation, the spores have nowhere to go but back onto your plant and the surrounding soil.: moisture evaporates more quickly. In addition, with plenty of air circulation, hopefully breezes will blow any newly-germinated black spot spores away from your roses. In an area with poor air circulation, the spores have nowhere to go but back onto your plant and the surrounding soil.
Water correctly. Try to avoid overhead irrigation, which wets the foliage. It's more efficient to water at ground level anyway; you lose less water to evaporation. Also, avoid watering late in the day. Water evaporates much slower in cooler evening and nighttime temperatures.
Remove leaves that show signs of infection. As soon as you see black spot on your rose foliage, remove any infected leaves. Throw these leaves away. Don't put them in your compost pile. If you check your roses regularly and remove infected foliage immediately, you'll have a good chance of keeping black spot under control and keep it from infecting other parts of the plant.
Keep a clean garden. Pick up and throw away any fallen rose foliage regularly. Especially in late winter, rake up the area around your roses, dispose of any debris, and give the entire area a good three-inch deep layer of mulch. If you do this before new foliage begins to emerge, it's fairly unlikely that you'll have any major issues with black spot.
Choose resistant cultivars. If you've had persistent problems with black spot, be sure to make sure that any new roses you add to your garden are resistant. Your local cooperative extension service will be able to provide you with suggestions.
The old remedy of treating black spot with a baking soda spray has been shown to be ineffective. The only way to control black spot organically is to practice the prevention and maintenance tasks above.
Black spot is basically what it sounds like: roundish black spots on leaf surfaces. The spots grow over time, and the foliage around the spot yellows. Eventually, the entire leaf falls off.
Damage to Plants
The issue with black spot is that the defoliation that occurs when the fungus is allowed to get out of control weakens the plant. And not just for the current growing season, but for the next season as well.
The main function of plant foliage is to absorb energy from the sun and perform photosynthesis. If your plant loses all or most of its leaves to black spot, it will be unable to collect and store energy for the winter, as well as for the burst of growth that occurs in spring. You'll see weaker growth and reduced bloom in the season following severe black spot damage.
Disease Life Cycle
Black spot spores overwinter on infected foliage and canes, including infected foliage that has fallen and been left on the ground. In spring, spores are splashed up onto newly emerging foliage during rains or irrigation. Once the weather begins to stay consistently warm and humid, the spores germinate and infect the plant within one day. Visible symptoms (black spot and some yellowing) will be evident within five days, and it will produce and spread new spores within ten days. The new spores will infect other parts of the plant, or be carried on the wind to any other nearby rose bushes.
Treatment and Prevention
There are several organic ways to control black spot. Most of them rely on regular monitoring and upkeep. None of them are difficult and can be accomplished while you're admiring your roses.
Plant roses in full sun. If you give your roses a spot where they receive a full six to eight hours of sun per day, you'll not only have plants that grow more robustly, but also plants that are more able to resist black spot. Black spot loves moisture, and, in shade, water evaporates much more slowly. In full sun, evaporation happens more quickly, which not only helps prevent black spot, but other fungal diseases as well.
Plant roses in an area with good air circulation. This accomplishes the same thing as planting in an area with direct sunlight: moisture evaporates more quickly. In addition, with plenty of air circulation, hopefully breezes will blow any newly-germinated black spot spores away from your roses. In an area with poor air circulation, the spores have nowhere to go but back onto your plant and the surrounding soil.: moisture evaporates more quickly. In addition, with plenty of air circulation, hopefully breezes will blow any newly-germinated black spot spores away from your roses. In an area with poor air circulation, the spores have nowhere to go but back onto your plant and the surrounding soil.
Water correctly. Try to avoid overhead irrigation, which wets the foliage. It's more efficient to water at ground level anyway; you lose less water to evaporation. Also, avoid watering late in the day. Water evaporates much slower in cooler evening and nighttime temperatures.
Remove leaves that show signs of infection. As soon as you see black spot on your rose foliage, remove any infected leaves. Throw these leaves away. Don't put them in your compost pile. If you check your roses regularly and remove infected foliage immediately, you'll have a good chance of keeping black spot under control and keep it from infecting other parts of the plant.
Keep a clean garden. Pick up and throw away any fallen rose foliage regularly. Especially in late winter, rake up the area around your roses, dispose of any debris, and give the entire area a good three-inch deep layer of mulch. If you do this before new foliage begins to emerge, it's fairly unlikely that you'll have any major issues with black spot.
Choose resistant cultivars. If you've had persistent problems with black spot, be sure to make sure that any new roses you add to your garden are resistant. Your local cooperative extension service will be able to provide you with suggestions.
The old remedy of treating black spot with a baking soda spray has been shown to be ineffective. The only way to control black spot organically is to practice the prevention and maintenance tasks above.
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成长记
KayleeShedd
2017年09月10日
Dannys son is growing some roots! In a few weeks im sure he'll be able to be planted and grow into a big plant!
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成长记
meriunkat
2017年09月09日
Im really loving how anxious these guys are to grow
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meriunkat：@Heidi Liu before you set* them
meriunkat：@Heidi Liu though do remember to let the leaves dry for a week before you else them on moist dirt, it should only be moist not drowning in water.
meriunkat：@Heidi Liu yeah like 8 out of 10 as a estimate. the only problem I've had was trying to propagate Perle Von Nurnberg 😅
Heidi Liu：so most of the leaves success？
meriunkat：@Heidi Liu well it depends what you want to do, you can experiment for yourself and see what works best for you. It's different for everyone, I've done it this way and so far it has worked.
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Succulentsister
2017年09月09日
The babies are growing well on this aeonium Holochrysum do you have any tips for me to help them grow or when i take them off the big guy
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meriunkat：you'd need to use sharp scissors and let the cutting dry for at least two days before planting so it won't rot, but yeah wait and see when it grows stem
meriunkat：hmm I think it would be more safe to remove the babies when they have a stem😺
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Native to northern climates, paper birch trees are lovely additions to rural landscapes. Their narrow canopy produces dappled shade that makes it possible to grow these trees in a sea of groundcover plants such as wintergreen and barberry, and you can even grow grass under them. Unfortunately, paper birches don’t fare well in the city where they struggle to survive in the face of pollution, heat and dry conditions. Although they love cool climates, the branches break easily on windy days, especially when weighted down with snow and ice. Despite these drawbacks, they are well worth growing for their beautiful bark that shines against a dark background.
What Is a Paper Birch Tree?
Paper birch trees (Betula papyriferia), also called canoe birches, are native to moist stream banks and lakesides in Northeastern United States and Canada. They have a single trunk, but nurseries like to grow them in clumps of three and call them “clumping birches.” The lowest branches are just a few feet off the ground, and in fall the foliage turns a blazing shade of yellow. Growing paper birch trees means you’ll always have something interesting to look at in the landscape.
Paper Birch Tree Facts
Paper birch trees grow as much as 60 feet tall and 35 feet wide, adding as much as 2 feet per year in USDA plant hardiness zones 2 to 6 or 7 where winters are cold. The tree’s most striking feature is its peeling white bark, which is highlighted with streaks of pink and black. In spring, it produces hanging clusters of catkins that are very attractive when in bloom. Most specimens have bright-colored fall foliage. Paper birch trees are a larval host for luna moth caterpillars. They also attract a number of birds, including yellow bellied sap suckers, black-capped chickadees, tree sparrows and pine siskins.
Here are a few uses of paper birch in the landscape:
Grow them in groups in moist beds and borders. Their thin canopy lets you grow other plants beneath them. Use paper birches to transition gradually from woods to open ground. Although the roots are shallow, they don’t usually rise above the surface of the soil, so you can use them as lawn or roadside trees.
How to Care for a Paper Birch Tree
Paper birches transplant easily with little shock. Plant them in a location with full sun and moist but well-drained soil. The trees adapt to most types of soil as long as it is cool in summer. It prefers long winters and mild summers. Paper birches are susceptible to a number of insects, including the destructive bronze birch borers. If you live in an area where these insects are a problem, try planting a resistant cultivar such as ‘Snowy.’
You can also help the tree resist birch borers by fertilizing annually in spring and using organic mulch. It’s best not to prune a paper birch unless absolutely necessary because it attracts insects and the tree bleeds copious amounts of sap when cut.
What Is a Paper Birch Tree?
Paper birch trees (Betula papyriferia), also called canoe birches, are native to moist stream banks and lakesides in Northeastern United States and Canada. They have a single trunk, but nurseries like to grow them in clumps of three and call them “clumping birches.” The lowest branches are just a few feet off the ground, and in fall the foliage turns a blazing shade of yellow. Growing paper birch trees means you’ll always have something interesting to look at in the landscape.
Paper Birch Tree Facts
Paper birch trees grow as much as 60 feet tall and 35 feet wide, adding as much as 2 feet per year in USDA plant hardiness zones 2 to 6 or 7 where winters are cold. The tree’s most striking feature is its peeling white bark, which is highlighted with streaks of pink and black. In spring, it produces hanging clusters of catkins that are very attractive when in bloom. Most specimens have bright-colored fall foliage. Paper birch trees are a larval host for luna moth caterpillars. They also attract a number of birds, including yellow bellied sap suckers, black-capped chickadees, tree sparrows and pine siskins.
Here are a few uses of paper birch in the landscape:
Grow them in groups in moist beds and borders. Their thin canopy lets you grow other plants beneath them. Use paper birches to transition gradually from woods to open ground. Although the roots are shallow, they don’t usually rise above the surface of the soil, so you can use them as lawn or roadside trees.
How to Care for a Paper Birch Tree
Paper birches transplant easily with little shock. Plant them in a location with full sun and moist but well-drained soil. The trees adapt to most types of soil as long as it is cool in summer. It prefers long winters and mild summers. Paper birches are susceptible to a number of insects, including the destructive bronze birch borers. If you live in an area where these insects are a problem, try planting a resistant cultivar such as ‘Snowy.’
You can also help the tree resist birch borers by fertilizing annually in spring and using organic mulch. It’s best not to prune a paper birch unless absolutely necessary because it attracts insects and the tree bleeds copious amounts of sap when cut.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Trees growing in the wild rely on the soil to provide the nutrients they need to grow. In a backyard environment, trees and shrubs compete for available nutrients and may require fertilizer to keep them healthy. Arborvitae are narrow-leaf evergreen trees with leaves that look like scales. Different arborvitae species grow into different shapes and sizes, making the tree an excellent choice for hedges of any height or specimen plants. Beloved for their fast growth, arborvitae – especially those planted near other trees or in hedges – often require fertilizer to thrive. It isn’t difficult to begin fertilizing arborvitae. Read on to learn how to fertilize an arborvitae and the type of fertilizer for arborvitae.
Fertilizing Arborvitae
Many mature trees do not require fertilizing. If your arborvitae is planted alone as a specimen tree and appears happy and thriving, consider skipping the fertilizer for the present time. If your trees are fighting for nutrients with other plants, they may need fertilizer. Check to see if they are growing slowly or otherwise look unhealthy. Before you fertilize, learn about the optimal type of fertilizer for these tough evergreens.
What Type of Fertilizer for Arborvitae?
If you want to start providing fertilizer for arborvitae trees, you need to select a fertilizer. You can select a single-nutrient fertilizer like nitrogen, but unless you are completely certain that your soil is rich in all other nutrients, it may be better to opt for a complete fertilizer for trees. Experts recommend slow release granular fertilizer for arborvitae trees. The nitrogen in this fertilizer is released over a long period of time. This enables you to fertilize less often and also ensures that the tree’s roots will not burn. Select a slow-release fertilizer that includes at least 50 percent nitrogen.
How to Fertilize an Arborvitae?
Applying fertilizer for arborvitae trees correctly is a matter of following easy directions. The fertilizer container will tell you how much of the product to use per tree. To fertilize your trees, broadcast the recommended amount of fertilizer evenly over the root zone. Keep the granules well away from the plant’s trunk area. Water the soil beneath the tree well when you are done fertilizing arborvitae. This helps the fertilizer dissolve so that it is accessible to the roots.
When to Feed Arborvitae?
It is also important to know when to feed arborvitae. Fertilizing arborvitae at the wrong time can lead to problems with the tree. You should fertilize your arborvitae during the growing season. Offer the first feeding just before new growth begins. Fertilize at the intervals recommended on the container. Stop fertilizing arborvitae one month before the first frost in your region.
Fertilizing Arborvitae
Many mature trees do not require fertilizing. If your arborvitae is planted alone as a specimen tree and appears happy and thriving, consider skipping the fertilizer for the present time. If your trees are fighting for nutrients with other plants, they may need fertilizer. Check to see if they are growing slowly or otherwise look unhealthy. Before you fertilize, learn about the optimal type of fertilizer for these tough evergreens.
What Type of Fertilizer for Arborvitae?
If you want to start providing fertilizer for arborvitae trees, you need to select a fertilizer. You can select a single-nutrient fertilizer like nitrogen, but unless you are completely certain that your soil is rich in all other nutrients, it may be better to opt for a complete fertilizer for trees. Experts recommend slow release granular fertilizer for arborvitae trees. The nitrogen in this fertilizer is released over a long period of time. This enables you to fertilize less often and also ensures that the tree’s roots will not burn. Select a slow-release fertilizer that includes at least 50 percent nitrogen.
How to Fertilize an Arborvitae?
Applying fertilizer for arborvitae trees correctly is a matter of following easy directions. The fertilizer container will tell you how much of the product to use per tree. To fertilize your trees, broadcast the recommended amount of fertilizer evenly over the root zone. Keep the granules well away from the plant’s trunk area. Water the soil beneath the tree well when you are done fertilizing arborvitae. This helps the fertilizer dissolve so that it is accessible to the roots.
When to Feed Arborvitae?
It is also important to know when to feed arborvitae. Fertilizing arborvitae at the wrong time can lead to problems with the tree. You should fertilize your arborvitae during the growing season. Offer the first feeding just before new growth begins. Fertilize at the intervals recommended on the container. Stop fertilizing arborvitae one month before the first frost in your region.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees (Salix spp.) are fast-growing beauties that make attractive, graceful ornamentals in a big backyard. In the wild, willows often grow by lakes, rivers or other bodies of water. Although willows are not sickly trees, a few diseases and pest infestations do attack and cause willow tree problems. If willow tree bark is falling off, you may need to take action.
Common Willow Tree Problems
Willows are not picky trees and most thrive in almost any kind of soil as long as there is adequate sunlight. They grow best in sites with full sun. However, the tree is vulnerable to several diseases and pests, including a few that cause willow tree bark peeling.
A few of the most serious willow tree problems do not cause peeling willow bark. These include infestation by gypsy moth caterpillars, willow leaf beetles and bagworms that will defoliate the tree.
The worst willow diseases include:
Crown gall, which causes stunting and dieback Willow scab, which causes olive green spore masses along the underside of leaves Blank canker, causing dark brown spots on the tree’s leaves. These are not your tree’s problem if your willow tree bark is falling off.
Reasons for Peeling Bark on Willows
Peeling willow bark can be caused by insects. If your willow tree bark is falling off, it could be a sign of borer insects. Both poplar and willow borers can tunnel through the inner layer of the willow bark. This causes peeling bark on willows. Your best bet if your willow tree has borers is to clip out all diseased branches. Then you can spray the willow tree with permethrin to kill borers. Another possible reason for willow tree bark peeling is too much sun. Willows most often get sunscald in winter when sun reflects off bright snow. The sunlight heats the tree bark, causing the tree cells to become active. But as soon as the temperatures plunge, the cells freeze and rupture.
If your willows have yellow or red patches on the tree trunk, this may be the result of sunscald. Those spots can also crack and peel as time passes. The tree will heal from sunscald, but you can protect your wills by acting before winter. Paint the trunks with diluted, white paint in early winter to prevent sunscald.
Common Willow Tree Problems
Willows are not picky trees and most thrive in almost any kind of soil as long as there is adequate sunlight. They grow best in sites with full sun. However, the tree is vulnerable to several diseases and pests, including a few that cause willow tree bark peeling.
A few of the most serious willow tree problems do not cause peeling willow bark. These include infestation by gypsy moth caterpillars, willow leaf beetles and bagworms that will defoliate the tree.
The worst willow diseases include:
Crown gall, which causes stunting and dieback Willow scab, which causes olive green spore masses along the underside of leaves Blank canker, causing dark brown spots on the tree’s leaves. These are not your tree’s problem if your willow tree bark is falling off.
Reasons for Peeling Bark on Willows
Peeling willow bark can be caused by insects. If your willow tree bark is falling off, it could be a sign of borer insects. Both poplar and willow borers can tunnel through the inner layer of the willow bark. This causes peeling bark on willows. Your best bet if your willow tree has borers is to clip out all diseased branches. Then you can spray the willow tree with permethrin to kill borers. Another possible reason for willow tree bark peeling is too much sun. Willows most often get sunscald in winter when sun reflects off bright snow. The sunlight heats the tree bark, causing the tree cells to become active. But as soon as the temperatures plunge, the cells freeze and rupture.
If your willows have yellow or red patches on the tree trunk, this may be the result of sunscald. Those spots can also crack and peel as time passes. The tree will heal from sunscald, but you can protect your wills by acting before winter. Paint the trunks with diluted, white paint in early winter to prevent sunscald.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees are big, graceful trees that are relatively low-maintenance and hardy enough to grow in a variety of conditions. While the long, slender branches of most willow tree species lend themselves to creation of beautiful woven baskets, certain larger willow species are preferred by weavers around the world. Read on to learn more about growing willow plants for baskets.
Basket Willow Trees
There are three willow tree species commonly grown as basket willow trees: Salix triandra, also known as almond willow or almond-leaved willow Salix viminalis, often known as common willow. Salix purpurea, a popular willow known by a number of alternate names, including purple osier willow and blue arctic willow Some weavers prefer to plant all three basket willow trees. The trees are perfect for baskets, but basket willow uses are also ornamental, as the trees create a variety of bright colors in the landscape.
How to Grow Basket Willows
Basket willow trees are easy to grow in a variety of soil types. Although they adapt to dry soil, they prefer moist or wet soil. Similarly, the trees thrive in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Willows are easily propagated by cuttings, which are simply pushed a few inches into the soil in late winter to early spring. Water well and apply 2 or 3 inches of mulch. Note: Some willow species can be invasive. If in doubt, check with your local cooperative extension before planting.
Basket Willow Tree Care
Basket willow trees grown for baskets are often coppiced, which involves cutting top growth down to the ground in late winter. However, some growers prefer to let the trees grow to their natural shape and form, removing only dead or damaged growth. Otherwise, basket willow tree care is minimal. Provide plenty of water for these moisture-loving trees. Fertilizer isn’t generally needed, but basket willow trees in poor soil benefit from a light feeding of a balanced fertilizer in spring.
Basket Willow Trees
There are three willow tree species commonly grown as basket willow trees: Salix triandra, also known as almond willow or almond-leaved willow Salix viminalis, often known as common willow. Salix purpurea, a popular willow known by a number of alternate names, including purple osier willow and blue arctic willow Some weavers prefer to plant all three basket willow trees. The trees are perfect for baskets, but basket willow uses are also ornamental, as the trees create a variety of bright colors in the landscape.
How to Grow Basket Willows
Basket willow trees are easy to grow in a variety of soil types. Although they adapt to dry soil, they prefer moist or wet soil. Similarly, the trees thrive in full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Willows are easily propagated by cuttings, which are simply pushed a few inches into the soil in late winter to early spring. Water well and apply 2 or 3 inches of mulch. Note: Some willow species can be invasive. If in doubt, check with your local cooperative extension before planting.
Basket Willow Tree Care
Basket willow trees grown for baskets are often coppiced, which involves cutting top growth down to the ground in late winter. However, some growers prefer to let the trees grow to their natural shape and form, removing only dead or damaged growth. Otherwise, basket willow tree care is minimal. Provide plenty of water for these moisture-loving trees. Fertilizer isn’t generally needed, but basket willow trees in poor soil benefit from a light feeding of a balanced fertilizer in spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Willow trees are suitable for moist sites in full sun. They perform well in almost any climate, but the limbs and stems are not strong and may bend and break in storms. There are many types of willow trees for the home landscape. Learn how to grow a willow tree for a fast growing, easy-to-care for screen or specimen tree.
Types of Willow Trees
There are tree and shrub willows, all of which are characterized by their love for moist soil and rangy, sometimes invasive root systems. You may even find a willow tree growing at the edge of a stream or river. Weeping and pussy willows are probably two of the better-known types of willow trees, but there are many others.
Weeping willows – Weeping willows have graceful arching stems that dangle delicately and shiver in the breeze. Pussy willows – Pussy willows put on a spring display of fuzzy buds that are charming and reminiscent of childhood.
Gold or White willows – Golden and white willows are introduced species from Europe and often used as screens and part of shelterbelts. Black willows – Black willows are native to parts of North America and common along waterways. Corkscrew willows – Corkscrew willows have attractive decorative stems, which spiral appealingly and provide interest in winter.
How to Grow a Willow Tree
You can grow a willow tree from cuttings. Take a cutting from a live terminal branch that is 18 inches long. Insert the cut end into moist soil in a pot with good drainage or straight into garden soil. Keep it moderately moist until the cutting roots. A more common method of willow tree growing is from bare root trees that are at least 1 year old. These need to have the roots soaked in a bucket before planting and soil worked to twice the depth and diameter of the root spread. Push soil in and around the roots when planting willow trees, and water the soil in well. Thereafter, follow good willow tree care for a fast growing tree or shrub.
Planting Willow Trees
Consider carefully where you plant your tree or shrub. Not all types of willow tree are invasive, but many are and you do not want their root system all over your planting bed. Provide a collar around young trees to protect them from wildlife. Young trees are especially susceptible to the nibbling of deer, elk and even rabbits. They need to be kept quite moist but not soggy as the roots establish.
Willow Tree Care
Willow trees are easy to grow and require moderate care. Prune young trees to keep lower limbs up for easier maintenance. Otherwise, willows do not need trimming and only removal of old and dead wood is required, though many people prefer to keep pussy willows trimmed. Willows flourish in moist organic-rich soils. If your soil is poor and has limited nutrients, work in compost at the time of planting and fertilize with an all-purpose plant food in early spring.
Water willows in periods of drought and watch for pests and disease. Willows are not bothered by many problems but it is easier to nip them in the bud at the first sign rather than wait until the plant’s health is compromised.
Types of Willow Trees
There are tree and shrub willows, all of which are characterized by their love for moist soil and rangy, sometimes invasive root systems. You may even find a willow tree growing at the edge of a stream or river. Weeping and pussy willows are probably two of the better-known types of willow trees, but there are many others.
Weeping willows – Weeping willows have graceful arching stems that dangle delicately and shiver in the breeze. Pussy willows – Pussy willows put on a spring display of fuzzy buds that are charming and reminiscent of childhood.
Gold or White willows – Golden and white willows are introduced species from Europe and often used as screens and part of shelterbelts. Black willows – Black willows are native to parts of North America and common along waterways. Corkscrew willows – Corkscrew willows have attractive decorative stems, which spiral appealingly and provide interest in winter.
How to Grow a Willow Tree
You can grow a willow tree from cuttings. Take a cutting from a live terminal branch that is 18 inches long. Insert the cut end into moist soil in a pot with good drainage or straight into garden soil. Keep it moderately moist until the cutting roots. A more common method of willow tree growing is from bare root trees that are at least 1 year old. These need to have the roots soaked in a bucket before planting and soil worked to twice the depth and diameter of the root spread. Push soil in and around the roots when planting willow trees, and water the soil in well. Thereafter, follow good willow tree care for a fast growing tree or shrub.
Planting Willow Trees
Consider carefully where you plant your tree or shrub. Not all types of willow tree are invasive, but many are and you do not want their root system all over your planting bed. Provide a collar around young trees to protect them from wildlife. Young trees are especially susceptible to the nibbling of deer, elk and even rabbits. They need to be kept quite moist but not soggy as the roots establish.
Willow Tree Care
Willow trees are easy to grow and require moderate care. Prune young trees to keep lower limbs up for easier maintenance. Otherwise, willows do not need trimming and only removal of old and dead wood is required, though many people prefer to keep pussy willows trimmed. Willows flourish in moist organic-rich soils. If your soil is poor and has limited nutrients, work in compost at the time of planting and fertilize with an all-purpose plant food in early spring.
Water willows in periods of drought and watch for pests and disease. Willows are not bothered by many problems but it is easier to nip them in the bud at the first sign rather than wait until the plant’s health is compromised.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Native to the Eastern U.S., the tupelo tree is an attractive shade tree that thrives in open areas with plenty of room to spread and grow. Find out about tupelo tree care and maintenance in this article.
Care and Uses for Tupelo Trees
There are many uses for tupelo trees in areas large enough to accommodate their size. They make excellent shade trees and can serve as street trees where overhead wires aren’t a concern. Use them to naturalize low, boggy areas and places with periodic flooding. Tupelo trees are an important food source for wildlife. Many species of birds, including wild turkeys and wood ducks, eat the berries and a few species of mammals, such as raccoons and squirrels, also enjoy the fruit. White-tailed deer browse on the tree’s twigs.
Tupelo tree growing conditions include full sun or partial shade and deep, acidic, evenly moist soil. Trees planted in alkaline soil die young. Even though they prefer wet soil, they tolerate brief periods of drought. One thing they won’t tolerate is pollution, whether it is in the soil or the air, so it’s best to keep them out of urban environments.
Types of Tupelo Trees
The white tupelo gum tree (Nyssa ogeche ‘Bartram’) is limited by its environment. It has a native range that centers around Northwest Florida in a low area fed by the Chattahoochee River system. Although it grows in other areas as well, you won’t find another region with the concentration of white tupelos equal to this 100-mile long stretch near the Gulf of Mexico. The area is famous for its high-quality tupelo honey.
The most common and familiar tupelo trees are the black gum tupelo trees (Nyssa sylvatica). These trees stand up to 80 feet tall at maturity. They usually have a 1.5- to 3-foot wide, straight trunk, although you may occasionally see a split trunk. The leaves are shiny and bright green in summer, turning several lovely shades of red, orange, yellow and purple in fall. The tree remains interesting in winter because its regular, horizontal branches give it an attractive profile. The birds that visit the tree to clean up the last of the berries also add winter interest.
Care and Uses for Tupelo Trees
There are many uses for tupelo trees in areas large enough to accommodate their size. They make excellent shade trees and can serve as street trees where overhead wires aren’t a concern. Use them to naturalize low, boggy areas and places with periodic flooding. Tupelo trees are an important food source for wildlife. Many species of birds, including wild turkeys and wood ducks, eat the berries and a few species of mammals, such as raccoons and squirrels, also enjoy the fruit. White-tailed deer browse on the tree’s twigs.
Tupelo tree growing conditions include full sun or partial shade and deep, acidic, evenly moist soil. Trees planted in alkaline soil die young. Even though they prefer wet soil, they tolerate brief periods of drought. One thing they won’t tolerate is pollution, whether it is in the soil or the air, so it’s best to keep them out of urban environments.
Types of Tupelo Trees
The white tupelo gum tree (Nyssa ogeche ‘Bartram’) is limited by its environment. It has a native range that centers around Northwest Florida in a low area fed by the Chattahoochee River system. Although it grows in other areas as well, you won’t find another region with the concentration of white tupelos equal to this 100-mile long stretch near the Gulf of Mexico. The area is famous for its high-quality tupelo honey.
The most common and familiar tupelo trees are the black gum tupelo trees (Nyssa sylvatica). These trees stand up to 80 feet tall at maturity. They usually have a 1.5- to 3-foot wide, straight trunk, although you may occasionally see a split trunk. The leaves are shiny and bright green in summer, turning several lovely shades of red, orange, yellow and purple in fall. The tree remains interesting in winter because its regular, horizontal branches give it an attractive profile. The birds that visit the tree to clean up the last of the berries also add winter interest.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Native to eastern Australia, Australian tea tree plant (Leptospermum laevigatum) is a graceful evergreen shrub or small tree valued for ability to grow in difficult conditions, and for its twists and curves, which give the tree a natural, sculptured appearance. Australian tea tree plant is also known as Australian myrtle, or coastal tea tree. Want to learn about growing an Australian tea tree? It’s easy; just keep reading to find out!
Australian Tea Tree Information
Australian tea tree plants are suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Although mature height depends on the species, Australian tea tree plants in the garden generally reach heights of 10 to 25 feet. Australian tea tree displays small, leathery, bluish-grey leaves and grey bark that adds to its textural appearance. Lovely apple blossom-like flowers bloom in early spring. Australian tea tree plants are drought tolerant once established, withstanding wind and poor, sandy soil. Australian tea tree is a great choice for a seaside environment.
How to Grow Australian Tea Trees
Australian tea tree plants thrive in either full or partial sunlight. Although the tree adapts to most soil types, it prefers fast-draining sandy or loamy, somewhat acidic soil. Hard-packed or heavy clay soil are best avoided. Smaller varieties, which work well for hedges, can be planted as close as 3 to 6 feet; however, large varieties need 15 to 20 feet of spreading-out space but responds well to trimming. Australian tea tree care is easy enough. When growing an Australian tea tree, it benefits from a deep watering every week during the first summer – as a general rule, saturate the soil to a depth of 6 to 15 inches. Once the tree is established, it requires no supplemental water, although it benefits from an occasional irrigation during extended periods of hot, dry weather.
Don’t worry about feeding your Australian tea tree, as too much fertilizer can damage the tree. If growth seems slow or you think the tree needs fertilizer, apply a light application of a water-soluble fertilizer every month during the growing season, using a solution of no more than ½ teaspoon of fertilizer per gallon of water. Never feed the tree after late summer. Note: Some Australian tea tree varieties can become invasive in certain areas. If you live in California, for example, check with your local cooperative extension office before planting. If you want to limit spreading growth in your garden, rake up seed pods that fall on the ground. If the tree is small, remove flowers before they go to seed.
Australian Tea Tree Information
Australian tea tree plants are suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. Although mature height depends on the species, Australian tea tree plants in the garden generally reach heights of 10 to 25 feet. Australian tea tree displays small, leathery, bluish-grey leaves and grey bark that adds to its textural appearance. Lovely apple blossom-like flowers bloom in early spring. Australian tea tree plants are drought tolerant once established, withstanding wind and poor, sandy soil. Australian tea tree is a great choice for a seaside environment.
How to Grow Australian Tea Trees
Australian tea tree plants thrive in either full or partial sunlight. Although the tree adapts to most soil types, it prefers fast-draining sandy or loamy, somewhat acidic soil. Hard-packed or heavy clay soil are best avoided. Smaller varieties, which work well for hedges, can be planted as close as 3 to 6 feet; however, large varieties need 15 to 20 feet of spreading-out space but responds well to trimming. Australian tea tree care is easy enough. When growing an Australian tea tree, it benefits from a deep watering every week during the first summer – as a general rule, saturate the soil to a depth of 6 to 15 inches. Once the tree is established, it requires no supplemental water, although it benefits from an occasional irrigation during extended periods of hot, dry weather.
Don’t worry about feeding your Australian tea tree, as too much fertilizer can damage the tree. If growth seems slow or you think the tree needs fertilizer, apply a light application of a water-soluble fertilizer every month during the growing season, using a solution of no more than ½ teaspoon of fertilizer per gallon of water. Never feed the tree after late summer. Note: Some Australian tea tree varieties can become invasive in certain areas. If you live in California, for example, check with your local cooperative extension office before planting. If you want to limit spreading growth in your garden, rake up seed pods that fall on the ground. If the tree is small, remove flowers before they go to seed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Cutting back a palm tree will not make it grow faster. This myth has caused gardeners to do extensive palm tree pruning that doesn’t help and can hurt the tree. Pruning palm plants, like any plant pruning, must be undertaken carefully. If you want to know how and when to prune a palm tree to make it stronger and healthier, read on.
Trimming a Palm Tree
Some experts recommend avoiding all palm tree pruning, but most suggest you avoid cutting too much or too often. When should you think about pruning palm plants?
Think about cutting back a palm tree if you notice dead or dying fronds. Removing these fronds by pruning palm plants not only prevents breakage damage, it also eliminates nesting places for rats, scorpions and other pests. Another good reason to start trimming a palm tree is when it has become a fire hazard or visual hazard in your yard. If it blocks the views from your driveway or sidewalk, you’ll have to start palm tree pruning.
How and When to Prune a Palm Tree
Experts recommend that you wait until spring to prune your palm tree. Those dead fronds may be somewhat unattractive, but they will help protect the palm from summer’s heat and winter’s cold. Sterilize and sharpen your pruning tools before you begin. Generally, you’ll need pruners, garden knives and pruning saws when you are trimming a palm tree. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves, as well as heavy pants and a shirt with long sleeves. Remove any hanging, dead or unhealthy fronds. All dry, wilted or diseased fronds should be removed. On the other hand, when you are pruning palm plants, don’t think you need to prune green, healthy fronds. There is no biological reason to do so and it can stress the tree. Be sure not to remove green fronds growing horizontally or pointing up.
What to Avoid When Cutting Back a Palm Tree
When cutting back a palm tree, don’t remove most of the fronds. Some gardeners make the mistake of doing this every year, and the tree becomes weak and unhealthy. In fact, leave as many green fronds as you possibly can on the palm. Palms need many green fronds to produce a steady food supply so that the plant can grow. A palm tree cannot stay healthy and build reserves without a considerable number of green fronds.
And resist the urge to start pruning palm plants for cosmetic reasons. Pruning them into pineapple shapes or skinning their trunks weaken the trees.
Trimming a Palm Tree
Some experts recommend avoiding all palm tree pruning, but most suggest you avoid cutting too much or too often. When should you think about pruning palm plants?
Think about cutting back a palm tree if you notice dead or dying fronds. Removing these fronds by pruning palm plants not only prevents breakage damage, it also eliminates nesting places for rats, scorpions and other pests. Another good reason to start trimming a palm tree is when it has become a fire hazard or visual hazard in your yard. If it blocks the views from your driveway or sidewalk, you’ll have to start palm tree pruning.
How and When to Prune a Palm Tree
Experts recommend that you wait until spring to prune your palm tree. Those dead fronds may be somewhat unattractive, but they will help protect the palm from summer’s heat and winter’s cold. Sterilize and sharpen your pruning tools before you begin. Generally, you’ll need pruners, garden knives and pruning saws when you are trimming a palm tree. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves, as well as heavy pants and a shirt with long sleeves. Remove any hanging, dead or unhealthy fronds. All dry, wilted or diseased fronds should be removed. On the other hand, when you are pruning palm plants, don’t think you need to prune green, healthy fronds. There is no biological reason to do so and it can stress the tree. Be sure not to remove green fronds growing horizontally or pointing up.
What to Avoid When Cutting Back a Palm Tree
When cutting back a palm tree, don’t remove most of the fronds. Some gardeners make the mistake of doing this every year, and the tree becomes weak and unhealthy. In fact, leave as many green fronds as you possibly can on the palm. Palms need many green fronds to produce a steady food supply so that the plant can grow. A palm tree cannot stay healthy and build reserves without a considerable number of green fronds.
And resist the urge to start pruning palm plants for cosmetic reasons. Pruning them into pineapple shapes or skinning their trunks weaken the trees.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Don’t look for the typical lobed oak leaves to identify chinkapin oak trees (Quercus muehlenbergii). These oaks grow leaves that are toothed like those of chestnut trees, and are often misidentified because of this. On the other hand, some facts about chinkapin trees help you recognize them as part of the oak tree family. For example, chinkapin oak trees, like all oaks, grow clusters of buds at the end of branches. Read on for more chinkapin oak information.
Facts About Chinkapin Trees
Chinkapins are native to this country, growing naturally in the wild from New England to the Mexican border. As part of the group of white oaks, they bear very pale, white bark. Their trunks can grow to 3 feet in diameter.
Chinkapins are not small trees, growing to 80 feet in the wild and 50 feet tall when cultivated. The breadth of the open, rounded canopy tends to approximate the height of the tree. These oaks are planted extensively as shade trees in appropriate hardiness zones.
The leaves of the chinkapin oak tree are particularly lovely. The tops of the leaves are yellow-green, while the undersides are pale silver. The leaves flutter like those of aspens in the breeze. In the fall, the leaves turn bright yellow, contrasting beautifully with the white bark. Chinkapin acorns appear without stalks and they mature in just one season. They are between ½ inch and 1 inch long and are edible if cooked. The wood of these oaks is hard and durable. It is known to take a fine polish and is used for furniture, fencing and barrels.
Additional Chinkapin Oak Information
Growing a chinkapin oak tree is easier if you start the young tree in its permanent site. These oaks are difficult to transplant once established. Plant chinkpin in a location with full sun and well-draining soil. The species prefers moist, fertile soils, but tolerates many different types of soil. It is one of the only white oak trees to accept alkaline soils without developing chlorosis.
Care for chinkapin trees is easy once they are established. Irrigate this native tree only if the weather is very hot or dry. It has no serious disease or insect problems so requires no spraying.
Facts About Chinkapin Trees
Chinkapins are native to this country, growing naturally in the wild from New England to the Mexican border. As part of the group of white oaks, they bear very pale, white bark. Their trunks can grow to 3 feet in diameter.
Chinkapins are not small trees, growing to 80 feet in the wild and 50 feet tall when cultivated. The breadth of the open, rounded canopy tends to approximate the height of the tree. These oaks are planted extensively as shade trees in appropriate hardiness zones.
The leaves of the chinkapin oak tree are particularly lovely. The tops of the leaves are yellow-green, while the undersides are pale silver. The leaves flutter like those of aspens in the breeze. In the fall, the leaves turn bright yellow, contrasting beautifully with the white bark. Chinkapin acorns appear without stalks and they mature in just one season. They are between ½ inch and 1 inch long and are edible if cooked. The wood of these oaks is hard and durable. It is known to take a fine polish and is used for furniture, fencing and barrels.
Additional Chinkapin Oak Information
Growing a chinkapin oak tree is easier if you start the young tree in its permanent site. These oaks are difficult to transplant once established. Plant chinkpin in a location with full sun and well-draining soil. The species prefers moist, fertile soils, but tolerates many different types of soil. It is one of the only white oak trees to accept alkaline soils without developing chlorosis.
Care for chinkapin trees is easy once they are established. Irrigate this native tree only if the weather is very hot or dry. It has no serious disease or insect problems so requires no spraying.
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