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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
With showy, white flowers that bloom in summer and attractive, glossy evergreen foliage, beauty leaf trees are tropical gems that deserve their name. They grow slowly to a height of up to 50 feet with a lush canopy that spreads 30 to 50 feet. Their intense fragrance and dense shade make them highly desirable specimen trees, but as you’ll see, they aren’t suitable for most North American landscapes.
What is a Beauty Leaf Tree?
Beauty leaf tree (Calophyllum inophyllum) is a broadleaf evergreen native to Australia, Eastern Africa and Southern India to Malaysia. According to most Calophyllum tree info, lumber from a beauty leaf is very hard and of high quality. In shipbuilding it is used to make masts and planks, and it is also used to build fine furniture.
All parts of the Calophyllum beauty leaf are considered poisonous. The fruit is so toxic that it can be ground and used as rat bait. The sap is fatal when introduced into the blood stream, and was once used as arrow poison.
Beauty leaf trees make a fine windbreak or hedge trees. They excel as street trees in areas that aren’t frequented by pedestrians. Calophyllums can also be used for espalier trees. Calophyllum beauty leaf is a great tree for frost-free coastal areas. Sandy soil, strong winds and salt spray aren’t a problem. High winds give the trunk a lovely, gnarled and twisted character. The branches are strong and don’t break when blown about.
Can You Grow Calophyllum Trees?
Beauty leaf trees are only for gardeners in frost-free areas. Rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 10b and 11, they die when exposed to freezing temperatures. If you live in a climate where you can grow a beauty leaf tree, you should consider the impact the fruit has on the landscape before planting the tree. Hard, golf ball-sized fruit drop from the tree when ripe. The fruit serves no useful purpose since it is poisonous and is not attractive to wildlife. Leaves and fruit create a significant litter problem and falling fruit is a hazard to anyone who wants to enjoy the shade of the tree’s dense canopy.
What is a Beauty Leaf Tree?
Beauty leaf tree (Calophyllum inophyllum) is a broadleaf evergreen native to Australia, Eastern Africa and Southern India to Malaysia. According to most Calophyllum tree info, lumber from a beauty leaf is very hard and of high quality. In shipbuilding it is used to make masts and planks, and it is also used to build fine furniture.
All parts of the Calophyllum beauty leaf are considered poisonous. The fruit is so toxic that it can be ground and used as rat bait. The sap is fatal when introduced into the blood stream, and was once used as arrow poison.
Beauty leaf trees make a fine windbreak or hedge trees. They excel as street trees in areas that aren’t frequented by pedestrians. Calophyllums can also be used for espalier trees. Calophyllum beauty leaf is a great tree for frost-free coastal areas. Sandy soil, strong winds and salt spray aren’t a problem. High winds give the trunk a lovely, gnarled and twisted character. The branches are strong and don’t break when blown about.
Can You Grow Calophyllum Trees?
Beauty leaf trees are only for gardeners in frost-free areas. Rated for USDA plant hardiness zones 10b and 11, they die when exposed to freezing temperatures. If you live in a climate where you can grow a beauty leaf tree, you should consider the impact the fruit has on the landscape before planting the tree. Hard, golf ball-sized fruit drop from the tree when ripe. The fruit serves no useful purpose since it is poisonous and is not attractive to wildlife. Leaves and fruit create a significant litter problem and falling fruit is a hazard to anyone who wants to enjoy the shade of the tree’s dense canopy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Homeowners love the claret ash tree (Fraxinus angustifolia subsp. oxycarpa) for its fast growth and its rounded crown of dark, lacy leaves. Before you start growing claret ash trees, be sure your backyard is big enough since these trees can grow 80 feet tall with a 30 foot spread. Read on for more claret ash tree information.
Claret Ash Tree Information
Claret ash trees are compact, fast growing, and their deep green leaves have a finer, more delicate look than other ash trees. The trees also offer a terrific autumn display, since the leaves turn maroon or crimson in fall. Claret ash growing conditions influence the ultimate height of the tree, and cultivated trees rarely exceed 40 feet in height. Generally, the tree’s roots are shallow and do not turn into problems for foundations or sidewalks. However, it is always wise to plant ash trees a good distance from homes or other structures.
Claret Ash Growing Conditions
Growing claret ash trees is easiest in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 7. When it comes to providing good claret ash care, don’t worry too much about the type of soil in your backyard. Claret ash trees accept sandy, loamy or clay soil. On the other hand, sunlight is critical. Plant claret ash trees in full sun for fastest growth. If you read up on claret ash tree information, you’ll find that the tree will not tolerate frost, high winds or salt spray. However, this ash is quite drought tolerant once established. Take care not to weed-whack around your young tree. Ash bark is very thin when the tree is young and it can be easily wounded.
Raywood Claret Ash
When you are growing claret as trees, you should consider ‘Raywood,’ an excellent Australian cultivar (Fraxinus oxycarpa ‘Raywood’). This cultivar is so popular that the claret ash is also called the Raywood ash tree. ‘Raywood’ thrives in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 8. It grows to 50 feet high with a 30 foot spread. You should use the same cultural practices for ‘Raywood’ that you would use generally for claret ash care, but be a little more generous with irrigation.
Claret Ash Tree Information
Claret ash trees are compact, fast growing, and their deep green leaves have a finer, more delicate look than other ash trees. The trees also offer a terrific autumn display, since the leaves turn maroon or crimson in fall. Claret ash growing conditions influence the ultimate height of the tree, and cultivated trees rarely exceed 40 feet in height. Generally, the tree’s roots are shallow and do not turn into problems for foundations or sidewalks. However, it is always wise to plant ash trees a good distance from homes or other structures.
Claret Ash Growing Conditions
Growing claret ash trees is easiest in USDA plant hardiness zones 5 through 7. When it comes to providing good claret ash care, don’t worry too much about the type of soil in your backyard. Claret ash trees accept sandy, loamy or clay soil. On the other hand, sunlight is critical. Plant claret ash trees in full sun for fastest growth. If you read up on claret ash tree information, you’ll find that the tree will not tolerate frost, high winds or salt spray. However, this ash is quite drought tolerant once established. Take care not to weed-whack around your young tree. Ash bark is very thin when the tree is young and it can be easily wounded.
Raywood Claret Ash
When you are growing claret as trees, you should consider ‘Raywood,’ an excellent Australian cultivar (Fraxinus oxycarpa ‘Raywood’). This cultivar is so popular that the claret ash is also called the Raywood ash tree. ‘Raywood’ thrives in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 8. It grows to 50 feet high with a 30 foot spread. You should use the same cultural practices for ‘Raywood’ that you would use generally for claret ash care, but be a little more generous with irrigation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Acacias are graceful trees that grow in warm climates such as Hawaii, Mexico and the southwestern United States. The foliage is typically bright green or bluish-green and the small blooms may be creamy white, pale yellow or bright yellow. Acacia may be evergreen or deciduous.
Acacia Tree Facts
Most acacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions.
Many types of acacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Acacia Tree and Ants
Interestingly, stinging ants and acacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Acacia Tree Growing Conditions
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia Tree Care
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system. During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water. Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth. Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
Acacia Tree Types
Acacia trees preferred by most gardeners are varieties that burst out with yellow blooms in the winter or early spring. Popular types include:
Bailey acacia, a hardy Australian variety that reaches heights of 20 to 30 feet. Bailey acacia displays feathery, bluish-gray foliage and bright yellow wintertime blooms. Also known as Texas acacia, Guajillo is an extremely heat-tolerant tree that hales from southern Texas and Mexico. It is a shrubby plant that reaches heights of 5 to 12 feet. This species produces clusters of fragrant white flowers in early spring.
Knifeleaf acacia is named for its silvery-gray, knife-shaped leaves. Mature height for this tree is 10 to 15 feet. Sweet-smelling yellow flowers appear in early spring. Koa is a fast-growing acacia native to Hawaii. This tree, which eventually reaches heights and widths of up to 60 feet, displaying pale yellow blooms in spring.
Acacia Tree Facts
Most acacia tree types are fast growers, but they usually live only 20 to 30 years. Many varieties are valued for their long roots which help stabilize the soil in areas threatened by erosion. The sturdy roots reach deep for underground water, which explains why the tree tolerates extreme drought conditions.
Many types of acacia are protected by long, sharp thorns and an extremely unpleasant flavor that discourages animals from eating the leaves and bark.
Acacia Tree and Ants
Interestingly, stinging ants and acacia trees have a mutually beneficial relationship. Ants create cozy living quarters by hollowing out the thorns, then survive by eating the sweet nectar produced by the tree. In turn, the ants protect the tree by stinging any animals that attempt to munch on the leaves.
Acacia Tree Growing Conditions
Acacia requires full sunlight and grows in nearly any type of soil, including sand, clay, or soil that is highly alkaline or acidic. Although acacia prefers well-drained soil, it tolerates muddy soil for short periods of time.
Acacia Tree Care
Acacia is basically a plant-it-and-forget-it type of tree, although a young tree may need protection from wildlife while it develops its defense system. During the first year, the tree benefits from an orchid fertilizer every three to four weeks. After that time, you can feed the tree a general purpose fertilizer once every year, but it isn’t an absolute requirement. Acacia requires little or no water. Acacia may need occasional pruning during the dry months. Avoid pruning leafy, green areas and trim only dead growth. Although the tree is disease-resistant, it can sometimes be affected by a fungal disease known as anthracnose. Additionally, watch for pests such as aphids, thrips, mites and scale.
Acacia Tree Types
Acacia trees preferred by most gardeners are varieties that burst out with yellow blooms in the winter or early spring. Popular types include:
Bailey acacia, a hardy Australian variety that reaches heights of 20 to 30 feet. Bailey acacia displays feathery, bluish-gray foliage and bright yellow wintertime blooms. Also known as Texas acacia, Guajillo is an extremely heat-tolerant tree that hales from southern Texas and Mexico. It is a shrubby plant that reaches heights of 5 to 12 feet. This species produces clusters of fragrant white flowers in early spring.
Knifeleaf acacia is named for its silvery-gray, knife-shaped leaves. Mature height for this tree is 10 to 15 feet. Sweet-smelling yellow flowers appear in early spring. Koa is a fast-growing acacia native to Hawaii. This tree, which eventually reaches heights and widths of up to 60 feet, displaying pale yellow blooms in spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
If you’re looking for a ground cover that thrives in deep shade where grass and other plants refuse to grow, look no further than snow on the mountain plant (Ageopodium podograria). Also called bishop’s weed or goutweed, the shallow roots of this quick-growing, deciduous ground cover sit above those of most companion plants so that they don’t interfere with their growth. Solid green varieties provide a lush, uniform appearance, and variegated forms have white highlights that glisten in deep shade.
Growing Snow on the Mountain Ground Cover
Snow on the mountain plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Growing Aegopodium is easy in the right location. It tolerates almost any soil as long as it is well-drained, and needs full or partial shade. Shade is particularly important in areas with hot summers. In locations with mild summer temperatures, snow on the mountain ground cover won’t mind some morning sun.
One of the most difficult things about growing Aegopodium is preventing it from spreading into areas where it isn’t wanted. The plants spread by means of brittle underground rhizomes, and digging up unwanted plants often causes them to spread even more because broken bits of rhizomes quickly form new plants.
To compensate for this, install an edging that sinks a few inches under the soil around the bed to contain the plants. If it spreads beyond the desired area, an herbicide may be the only solution. Snow on the mountain plant only responds to herbicides when there is new growth on the plant, so use it in early spring or mow down the plants and allow new growth to emerge before spraying the plants. When growing variegated forms of snow on the mountain plant, you may occasionally see a solid green plant. Dig these plants out immediately, getting rid of as much of the rhizomes as you can. Solid forms are much more vigorous than the variegated ones and will soon overtake the area.
Care of Snow on the Mountain
Bishop’s weed requires very little care. The plants grow best if watered during dry spells. In late spring or early summer, the plants produce small, white flowers. Many growers think the flowers detract from the attractive foliage and pick them off as they appear, but removing the flowers isn’t necessary to keep the plants healthy. After the bloom period, run a lawn mower over the plants to rejuvenate them. They’ll be ankle high again in no time.
Growing Snow on the Mountain Ground Cover
Snow on the mountain plant is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9. Growing Aegopodium is easy in the right location. It tolerates almost any soil as long as it is well-drained, and needs full or partial shade. Shade is particularly important in areas with hot summers. In locations with mild summer temperatures, snow on the mountain ground cover won’t mind some morning sun.
One of the most difficult things about growing Aegopodium is preventing it from spreading into areas where it isn’t wanted. The plants spread by means of brittle underground rhizomes, and digging up unwanted plants often causes them to spread even more because broken bits of rhizomes quickly form new plants.
To compensate for this, install an edging that sinks a few inches under the soil around the bed to contain the plants. If it spreads beyond the desired area, an herbicide may be the only solution. Snow on the mountain plant only responds to herbicides when there is new growth on the plant, so use it in early spring or mow down the plants and allow new growth to emerge before spraying the plants. When growing variegated forms of snow on the mountain plant, you may occasionally see a solid green plant. Dig these plants out immediately, getting rid of as much of the rhizomes as you can. Solid forms are much more vigorous than the variegated ones and will soon overtake the area.
Care of Snow on the Mountain
Bishop’s weed requires very little care. The plants grow best if watered during dry spells. In late spring or early summer, the plants produce small, white flowers. Many growers think the flowers detract from the attractive foliage and pick them off as they appear, but removing the flowers isn’t necessary to keep the plants healthy. After the bloom period, run a lawn mower over the plants to rejuvenate them. They’ll be ankle high again in no time.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Japanese pachysandra is a ground cover plant, often used by gardeners in areas too shady to allow grass to grow. When the plant is stressed by too much water on their leaves or too little water to drink, it is prone to certain infectious diseases, including pachysandra Volutella blight (Volutella pachysandrae). Read on for more information about Volutella blight of pachysandra and different kinds of pachysandra leaf blight treatment.
What is Volutella Blight of Pachysandra?
Pachysandra Volutella blight is a type of leaf blight that can be detrimental to pachysandra plants. The first symptoms of this disease are tan spots on the leaves. Although they start small, they grow fast and can cover entire leaves.
The pachysandra leaves yellow and die, while the infected twigs darken and die. When Volutella blight of pachysandra attacks plants during moist weather, you can sometimes spot salmon-colored spores on the blackened twigs. Volutella blight of pachysandra is much more likely to attack your plants if they are crowded together. Wet conditions also increase the risk of pachysandra Volutella blight.
Treating Volutella Blight on Pachysandra
While treating Volutella blight on pachysandra is possible, prevention is always easier than cure when it comes to leaf blight fungal diseases. The very best pachysandra leaf blight treatment is good cultural care to prevent infection. If you keep your plants healthy and vigorous, they are much less likely to get leaf blight. Be sure the pachysandra are healthy when you buy them, and check the leaves carefully for suspicious tan spots. Where to plant your pachysandra? Select a site that gets some sun. Never plant pachysandra in areas of deep shade, or other spots where the plant is likely to retain water on its leaves for a long time. Don’t compromise on soil; it must be well-draining.
Once the plants are established, thin them out during dry periods to prevent densely packed garden beds. It also helps to remove debris from the bed on a regular basis. If, despite your efforts, your pachysandra develops leaf blight, remove and destroy any severely diseased plants. Burn them or bury them to avoid spreading the fungus. If all else fails, consider fungicides. If you decide to use them, start in spring and apply every 7 to 14 days through early summer.
What is Volutella Blight of Pachysandra?
Pachysandra Volutella blight is a type of leaf blight that can be detrimental to pachysandra plants. The first symptoms of this disease are tan spots on the leaves. Although they start small, they grow fast and can cover entire leaves.
The pachysandra leaves yellow and die, while the infected twigs darken and die. When Volutella blight of pachysandra attacks plants during moist weather, you can sometimes spot salmon-colored spores on the blackened twigs. Volutella blight of pachysandra is much more likely to attack your plants if they are crowded together. Wet conditions also increase the risk of pachysandra Volutella blight.
Treating Volutella Blight on Pachysandra
While treating Volutella blight on pachysandra is possible, prevention is always easier than cure when it comes to leaf blight fungal diseases. The very best pachysandra leaf blight treatment is good cultural care to prevent infection. If you keep your plants healthy and vigorous, they are much less likely to get leaf blight. Be sure the pachysandra are healthy when you buy them, and check the leaves carefully for suspicious tan spots. Where to plant your pachysandra? Select a site that gets some sun. Never plant pachysandra in areas of deep shade, or other spots where the plant is likely to retain water on its leaves for a long time. Don’t compromise on soil; it must be well-draining.
Once the plants are established, thin them out during dry periods to prevent densely packed garden beds. It also helps to remove debris from the bed on a regular basis. If, despite your efforts, your pachysandra develops leaf blight, remove and destroy any severely diseased plants. Burn them or bury them to avoid spreading the fungus. If all else fails, consider fungicides. If you decide to use them, start in spring and apply every 7 to 14 days through early summer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Mazus ground cover is a very tiny perennial plant, growing only two inches tall. It forms a dense mat of foliage that stays green throughout spring and summer, and well into fall. In the summer, it is dotted with tiny blue flowers. Learn to grow mazus in this article.
Mazus Reptans Information
Mazus (Mazus reptans) spreads quickly by means of creeping stems that take root where they touch the ground. Even though the plants spread aggressively to fill in bare spots, they aren’t considered invasive because they don’t become a problem in wild areas.
Native to Asia, Mazus reptans is a tiny perennial that can make a big impact in the landscape. It’s the perfect, quick-growing groundcover for small areas. Plant it at the rate of six plants per square yard for the fastest coverage. You can also grow it in shaped patches with the aid of barriers to stop the spread. Mazus grows well in rock gardens and in the gaps between the rocks in a rock wall. It tolerates light foot traffic so you can plant it in between stepping stones too.
Mazus Reptans Care
Creeping mazus plants need a location in full sun or partial shade. It tolerates moderate to high moisture levels, but the roots shouldn’t stand in water. It can live in soil with low fertility, but the ideal location has fertile, loamy soil. It is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 7 or 8. To grow mazus where you now have a lawn, first remove the grass. Mazus will not outcompete lawn grass, so you need to make sure you take up all the grass and get as much of the roots as possible. You can do this with a flat shovel that has a fairly sharp edge.
Mazus may not require annual fertilization. This is especially true if the soil is rich. Spring is the best time to fertilize the plants if necessary, however. Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Rinse the leaves thoroughly after applying fertilizer to prevent leaf burn. Growing Mazus reptans is made easy by the fact that it seldom suffers from disease or insect infestation.
Mazus Reptans Information
Mazus (Mazus reptans) spreads quickly by means of creeping stems that take root where they touch the ground. Even though the plants spread aggressively to fill in bare spots, they aren’t considered invasive because they don’t become a problem in wild areas.
Native to Asia, Mazus reptans is a tiny perennial that can make a big impact in the landscape. It’s the perfect, quick-growing groundcover for small areas. Plant it at the rate of six plants per square yard for the fastest coverage. You can also grow it in shaped patches with the aid of barriers to stop the spread. Mazus grows well in rock gardens and in the gaps between the rocks in a rock wall. It tolerates light foot traffic so you can plant it in between stepping stones too.
Mazus Reptans Care
Creeping mazus plants need a location in full sun or partial shade. It tolerates moderate to high moisture levels, but the roots shouldn’t stand in water. It can live in soil with low fertility, but the ideal location has fertile, loamy soil. It is suitable for U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 7 or 8. To grow mazus where you now have a lawn, first remove the grass. Mazus will not outcompete lawn grass, so you need to make sure you take up all the grass and get as much of the roots as possible. You can do this with a flat shovel that has a fairly sharp edge.
Mazus may not require annual fertilization. This is especially true if the soil is rich. Spring is the best time to fertilize the plants if necessary, however. Apply 1 to 1.5 pounds of 12-12-12 fertilizer per 100 square feet. Rinse the leaves thoroughly after applying fertilizer to prevent leaf burn. Growing Mazus reptans is made easy by the fact that it seldom suffers from disease or insect infestation.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Gotu kola is often known as Asiatic pennywort or spadeleaf – an appropriate nickname for plants with attractive leaves that look like they were stolen from a deck of cards. Looking for more gotu kola plant information? Want to learn how to grow gotu kola in your own garden? Keep on reading!
What is Gotu Kola?
Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is a low-growing perennial plant native to the warm, tropical climates of Indonesia, China, Japan, South Africa and the South Pacific. It has been used for many centuries as a treatment for respiratory ailments and a variety of other condition, including fatigue, arthritis, memory, stomach problems, asthma and fever.
In the garden, gotu kola grows nearly anywhere as long as conditions are never dry, and works well near water or as a groundcover in dark, shady areas. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 9b or above, you should have no trouble growing gotu kola in your own garden. Keep in mind that gotu kola plants can be aggressive, especially in warm, moist climates. If this is a concern, you can grow gotu kola plants in containers.
How to Grow Gotu Kola by Seed
Plant gotu kola seeds in a container filled with moist, lightweight potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Water thoroughly after planting. Thereafter, water as needed to keep the soil evenly and consistently moist. Transplant the tiny plants into individual containers when they have at least one set of true leaves – the leaves that appear after the tiny seedling leaves. Allow gotu kola plants to mature for several months, then plant them in the garden when you’re sure all danger of frost has passed.
Planting Gotu Kola Starter Plants
If you’re fortunate enough to find gotu kola bedding plants, probably in a nursery specializing in herbs, just place the plants – in their nursery pots – in the garden for a few days. Once the plants have hardened off, plant them in their permanent location.
Gotu Kola Care
Ensure the soil never dries out. Otherwise, no gotu kola care is necessary; just stand back and watch them grow.
What is Gotu Kola?
Gotu kola (Centella asiatica) is a low-growing perennial plant native to the warm, tropical climates of Indonesia, China, Japan, South Africa and the South Pacific. It has been used for many centuries as a treatment for respiratory ailments and a variety of other condition, including fatigue, arthritis, memory, stomach problems, asthma and fever.
In the garden, gotu kola grows nearly anywhere as long as conditions are never dry, and works well near water or as a groundcover in dark, shady areas. If you live in USDA plant hardiness zones 9b or above, you should have no trouble growing gotu kola in your own garden. Keep in mind that gotu kola plants can be aggressive, especially in warm, moist climates. If this is a concern, you can grow gotu kola plants in containers.
How to Grow Gotu Kola by Seed
Plant gotu kola seeds in a container filled with moist, lightweight potting soil. Be sure the container has a drainage hole in the bottom. Water thoroughly after planting. Thereafter, water as needed to keep the soil evenly and consistently moist. Transplant the tiny plants into individual containers when they have at least one set of true leaves – the leaves that appear after the tiny seedling leaves. Allow gotu kola plants to mature for several months, then plant them in the garden when you’re sure all danger of frost has passed.
Planting Gotu Kola Starter Plants
If you’re fortunate enough to find gotu kola bedding plants, probably in a nursery specializing in herbs, just place the plants – in their nursery pots – in the garden for a few days. Once the plants have hardened off, plant them in their permanent location.
Gotu Kola Care
Ensure the soil never dries out. Otherwise, no gotu kola care is necessary; just stand back and watch them grow.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月30日
Many gardeners love the look of stone walkways, patios and driveways, but these types of hardscapes have their difficulties. Many times, they may look too harsh or are prone to allow difficult to remove weeds to grow. A good solution to both of these problems is to add low growing plants between the stones. Not only do low growing grass and other ground cover plants soften the look of the stone, but they are a low maintenance way to keep weeds away.
Low Growing Plants for Walkways
In order for low garden plants to make good walkway plants, they need to have a few traits. First, they must be somewhat drought tolerant, as walkway stones may not allow much water to reach the roots. Second, they must be tolerant of both heat and cold, as the stones can hold onto both the heat of the sun in summer and the cold in the winter. Lastly, these ground cover plants but be able to take being walked on at least a little bit. Above all, they must be low growing plants.
Here are several low growing grasses and ground cover plants that meet these requirements:
Ajuga
Pussytoes
MountainRockcress
Artemisia
Snow in Summer
Roman Chamomile
Miniature Rush
Fleabane
Ground Ivy
Green Carpet Herniaria
Leptinella
White Toadflax
Creeping Jenny
Mazus
Dwarf Mondo Grass
Golden Marjoram
Potentilla
Pratia
Scotch or Irish Moss
Most low growing sedums
Soleirolia
Creeping thyme
Speedwell
Violets
While these hardy low garden plants will work between the stones of your walkway, they are not the only options available. If you find a plant you feel will make a good walkway plant, give it a try.
Low Growing Plants for Walkways
In order for low garden plants to make good walkway plants, they need to have a few traits. First, they must be somewhat drought tolerant, as walkway stones may not allow much water to reach the roots. Second, they must be tolerant of both heat and cold, as the stones can hold onto both the heat of the sun in summer and the cold in the winter. Lastly, these ground cover plants but be able to take being walked on at least a little bit. Above all, they must be low growing plants.
Here are several low growing grasses and ground cover plants that meet these requirements:
Ajuga
Pussytoes
MountainRockcress
Artemisia
Snow in Summer
Roman Chamomile
Miniature Rush
Fleabane
Ground Ivy
Green Carpet Herniaria
Leptinella
White Toadflax
Creeping Jenny
Mazus
Dwarf Mondo Grass
Golden Marjoram
Potentilla
Pratia
Scotch or Irish Moss
Most low growing sedums
Soleirolia
Creeping thyme
Speedwell
Violets
While these hardy low garden plants will work between the stones of your walkway, they are not the only options available. If you find a plant you feel will make a good walkway plant, give it a try.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
English ivy plants (Hedera helix) are superb climbers, clinging to almost any surface by means of small roots that grow along the stems. English ivy care is a snap, so you can plant it in distant and hard-to-reach areas without worrying about maintenance.
Growing English Ivy Plants
Plant English ivy in a shady area with an organically rich soil. If your soil lacks organic matter, amend it with compost before planting. Space the plants 18 to 24 inches apart, or 1 foot apart for quicker coverage.
The vines grow 50 feet long or more, but don’t expect quick results in the beginning. The first year after planting, the vines grow very slowly, and in the second year they begin to put on noticeable growth. By the third year the plants take off, and quickly cover trellises, walls, fences, trees or anything else they encounter.
These plants are useful as well as attractive. Hide unsightly views by growing English ivy as a screen on a trellis or as a cover for unattractive walls and structures. Since it loves shade, the vines make an ideal ground cover under a tree where grass refuses to grow. Indoors, grow English ivy in pots with a stake or other vertical structure for climbing, or in hanging baskets where it can tumble over the edges. You can also grow it in a pot with a shaped wire frame to create a topiary design. Variegated types are especially attractive when planted in this way.
How to Care for English Ivy
There’s very little involved with English ivy care. Water them often enough to keep the soil moist until the plants are established and growing. These vines grow best when they have plenty of moisture, but they tolerate dry conditions once established. When grown as a ground cover, shear off the tops of the plants in spring to rejuvenate the vines and discourage rodents. The foliage regrows quickly.
English ivy seldom needs fertilizer, but if you don’t think your plants are growing as they should, spray them with half-strength liquid fertilizer.
Growing English Ivy Plants
Plant English ivy in a shady area with an organically rich soil. If your soil lacks organic matter, amend it with compost before planting. Space the plants 18 to 24 inches apart, or 1 foot apart for quicker coverage.
The vines grow 50 feet long or more, but don’t expect quick results in the beginning. The first year after planting, the vines grow very slowly, and in the second year they begin to put on noticeable growth. By the third year the plants take off, and quickly cover trellises, walls, fences, trees or anything else they encounter.
These plants are useful as well as attractive. Hide unsightly views by growing English ivy as a screen on a trellis or as a cover for unattractive walls and structures. Since it loves shade, the vines make an ideal ground cover under a tree where grass refuses to grow. Indoors, grow English ivy in pots with a stake or other vertical structure for climbing, or in hanging baskets where it can tumble over the edges. You can also grow it in a pot with a shaped wire frame to create a topiary design. Variegated types are especially attractive when planted in this way.
How to Care for English Ivy
There’s very little involved with English ivy care. Water them often enough to keep the soil moist until the plants are established and growing. These vines grow best when they have plenty of moisture, but they tolerate dry conditions once established. When grown as a ground cover, shear off the tops of the plants in spring to rejuvenate the vines and discourage rodents. The foliage regrows quickly.
English ivy seldom needs fertilizer, but if you don’t think your plants are growing as they should, spray them with half-strength liquid fertilizer.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Most cultivated rose varieties (Rosa spp.) are hybrids, rather than the natural "species" roses found growing in the wild. These wild rose species tend to grow vigorously, and require regular pruning to keep them in check. The best time for pruning wild roses is after they bloom. Wear gloves when pruning, because wild roses typically have many thorns.
Wild Roses
One wild rose so common it grows as a weed in some areas is the multiflora, or rambler, rose (Rosa multiflora). This plant grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and may occasionally grow outside this range. It is considered an invasive plant, but can be kept under control by removing new canes that sprout up throughout the growing season. Other species roses that grow wild, but don't spread as fast, require less severe pruning. They may grow in USDA zones 2 through 11, depending on the species.
Pruning Goals
Most cultivated roses are grafted onto a host rootstock, but wild roses grow on their own roots and send up new canes directly from the soil rather than a graft union. When pruning these roses, the main goals are to remove dead or diseased canes and give the plant an attractive shape. To thin the rose clump, remove entire canes at soil level. To encourage new growth or shape the rose, cut canes at a 45-degree angle right above the place where a healthy leaf meets the cane. The leaf chosen should be growing outward from the center of the rose plant. When cutting flowers or pruning canes, remove only about 25 percent of the rose plant's height.
When to Prune
Most pruning for wild roses should be done after the plant flowers. This pruning focuses on removing unwanted shoots and choosing four to eight canes that will be allowed to grow and flower next year. Wild roses, including multiflora rose, bloom on last year's wood, so heavy pruning in the fall or spring would remove the canes that will produce blooms. In fall, remove spindly growth and root suckers that have developed over the summer. In spring, remove only canes that died over the winter.
Pruning Tips
Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or a pruning knife when working with roses. After pruning, cover the cut ends with pruning paint or white glue to seal the ends of the canes, advises University of Illinois Extension. This helps prevent disease and insect infestation, particularly cane borers. It is a good precaution to disinfect pruning tools after each use, to prevent the spread of diseases among plants. Do this by soaking the tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. After soaking, rinse tools with clean water and allow them to air-dry before using or storing.
Wild Roses
One wild rose so common it grows as a weed in some areas is the multiflora, or rambler, rose (Rosa multiflora). This plant grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and may occasionally grow outside this range. It is considered an invasive plant, but can be kept under control by removing new canes that sprout up throughout the growing season. Other species roses that grow wild, but don't spread as fast, require less severe pruning. They may grow in USDA zones 2 through 11, depending on the species.
Pruning Goals
Most cultivated roses are grafted onto a host rootstock, but wild roses grow on their own roots and send up new canes directly from the soil rather than a graft union. When pruning these roses, the main goals are to remove dead or diseased canes and give the plant an attractive shape. To thin the rose clump, remove entire canes at soil level. To encourage new growth or shape the rose, cut canes at a 45-degree angle right above the place where a healthy leaf meets the cane. The leaf chosen should be growing outward from the center of the rose plant. When cutting flowers or pruning canes, remove only about 25 percent of the rose plant's height.
When to Prune
Most pruning for wild roses should be done after the plant flowers. This pruning focuses on removing unwanted shoots and choosing four to eight canes that will be allowed to grow and flower next year. Wild roses, including multiflora rose, bloom on last year's wood, so heavy pruning in the fall or spring would remove the canes that will produce blooms. In fall, remove spindly growth and root suckers that have developed over the summer. In spring, remove only canes that died over the winter.
Pruning Tips
Use a pair of clean, sharp pruning shears or a pruning knife when working with roses. After pruning, cover the cut ends with pruning paint or white glue to seal the ends of the canes, advises University of Illinois Extension. This helps prevent disease and insect infestation, particularly cane borers. It is a good precaution to disinfect pruning tools after each use, to prevent the spread of diseases among plants. Do this by soaking the tools in a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water for five minutes. After soaking, rinse tools with clean water and allow them to air-dry before using or storing.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
The original cherry red-flowered Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radrazz') and its varieties produce showy flowers and are relatively disease-resistant. The shrubs grow up to 5 feet high and wide, thriving in full sun and well-drained soil with a pH level between 6.0 and 6.5.
Knock Out rose varieties produce 3-inch-wide, lightly fragrant flowers throughout spring and summer, and nearly all year in locations such as Florida. The blooms of Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtko') and Pink Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtkopink') have twice as many petals as the flowers of other Knock Out varieties, referred to as single Knock Outs. Single and double Knock Outs are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10 or zones 5 through 11, depending on the source. Pruning both kinds of Knock Out roses on a regular basis helps keep them healthy and shaped.
Spring and Fall Pruning
Single and double Knock Out roses benefit from an annual late-winter or early-spring pruning, whether they grow in cool or warm climates. Wait until the shrubs have had at least their second year of growth to prune them, however; they are mature then.
The best time for spring pruning is when their leaf buds have swelled but before the new growth appears. In cool regions, the shrubs usually can be pruned from mid-February to early March or April. In warm regions, late January to mid-February is generally a suitable time to prune. You can prune again in late summer or early fall.
Conditions That Warrant Pruning
At any time of the year, you can remove dead, diseased or damaged branches from Knock Out roses. Although the shrubs tend to resist diseases, you may see occasional disease symptoms, including yellow leaves, peeling bark and a white, powdery mildew on the leaves and stems. Prune and destroy branches that show such symptoms; the disease-resistant plants probably will recover on their own.
If your Knock Out rose bushes serve as a privacy screen, then an option is simply to remove their dead wood and allow the shrubs to grow taller.
Promote air circulation and prevent diseases by removing branches that rub against other branches.
Pruning Gear and Methods
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long, protective gloves to avoid injury from Knock Out roses' thorns. Prune the shrubs with bypass pruners, which have a scissorlike cutting action. Avoid using anvil pruners, which damage stem tissue, according to North Carolina Cooperative Extension.
Before you prune, sterilize the pruners by soaking them for five minutes in a solution that is 1 part 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol and 1 part water to prevent spreading plant diseases; rinse the tool with clean water. Also sterilize the pruning tool occasionally between cuts on the same bush and before you prune a different bush. Keep pruning tools and disinfectants away from children and pets.
During spring and fall pruning, remove one-half to one-third of each Knock Out rose's growth,* but do not cut a plant shorter than 2 feet tall. Make each cut slanted and about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing leaf bud, with the cut slanting away from the bud. Staggering the cuts will give a shrub a dome shape.
Removal of Old Flowers
In summer, you have the option to deadhead, or remove, spent flower clusters from Knock Out rose bushes. Although deadheading is not a necessity, the practice helps control plant size and promotes late-season blooming. Deadheading is not a severe form of pruning and minimizes stress to the plants during hot summer months.
Deadhead a faded flower cluster by cutting its stem just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower cluster. If you want to trim leggy or uneven growth, then make the cut above a leaf that is 6 to 8 inches below the old flower cluster.
Knock Out rose varieties produce 3-inch-wide, lightly fragrant flowers throughout spring and summer, and nearly all year in locations such as Florida. The blooms of Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtko') and Pink Double Knock Out rose (Rosa 'Radtkopink') have twice as many petals as the flowers of other Knock Out varieties, referred to as single Knock Outs. Single and double Knock Outs are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 10 or zones 5 through 11, depending on the source. Pruning both kinds of Knock Out roses on a regular basis helps keep them healthy and shaped.
Spring and Fall Pruning
Single and double Knock Out roses benefit from an annual late-winter or early-spring pruning, whether they grow in cool or warm climates. Wait until the shrubs have had at least their second year of growth to prune them, however; they are mature then.
The best time for spring pruning is when their leaf buds have swelled but before the new growth appears. In cool regions, the shrubs usually can be pruned from mid-February to early March or April. In warm regions, late January to mid-February is generally a suitable time to prune. You can prune again in late summer or early fall.
Conditions That Warrant Pruning
At any time of the year, you can remove dead, diseased or damaged branches from Knock Out roses. Although the shrubs tend to resist diseases, you may see occasional disease symptoms, including yellow leaves, peeling bark and a white, powdery mildew on the leaves and stems. Prune and destroy branches that show such symptoms; the disease-resistant plants probably will recover on their own.
If your Knock Out rose bushes serve as a privacy screen, then an option is simply to remove their dead wood and allow the shrubs to grow taller.
Promote air circulation and prevent diseases by removing branches that rub against other branches.
Pruning Gear and Methods
Wear a long-sleeved shirt and long, protective gloves to avoid injury from Knock Out roses' thorns. Prune the shrubs with bypass pruners, which have a scissorlike cutting action. Avoid using anvil pruners, which damage stem tissue, according to North Carolina Cooperative Extension.
Before you prune, sterilize the pruners by soaking them for five minutes in a solution that is 1 part 70-percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol and 1 part water to prevent spreading plant diseases; rinse the tool with clean water. Also sterilize the pruning tool occasionally between cuts on the same bush and before you prune a different bush. Keep pruning tools and disinfectants away from children and pets.
During spring and fall pruning, remove one-half to one-third of each Knock Out rose's growth,* but do not cut a plant shorter than 2 feet tall. Make each cut slanted and about 1/4 inch above an outward-facing leaf bud, with the cut slanting away from the bud. Staggering the cuts will give a shrub a dome shape.
Removal of Old Flowers
In summer, you have the option to deadhead, or remove, spent flower clusters from Knock Out rose bushes. Although deadheading is not a necessity, the practice helps control plant size and promotes late-season blooming. Deadheading is not a severe form of pruning and minimizes stress to the plants during hot summer months.
Deadhead a faded flower cluster by cutting its stem just above the first five-leaflet leaf below the flower cluster. If you want to trim leggy or uneven growth, then make the cut above a leaf that is 6 to 8 inches below the old flower cluster.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Brass buttons is the common name given to the plant Leptinella squalida. This very low growing, vigorously spreading plant is a good choice for rock gardens, the spaces between flagstones, and lawns where turf won’t grow. Keep reading to learn more Leptinella information, including the growing and care of brass button plants.
Leptinella Information
Brass buttons gets its name from the small yellow to green flowers it produces in the spring. The plant is in the daisy family, and its flowers look very much like the centers of daisy flowers, minus the long white petals. These small, hard looking flowers are said to resemble buttons.
Leptinella brass button plants are native to New Zealand but are widespread now. They are hardy from USDA zones 4 through 9, though just what that means depends on the zone. In 9 and 10, the plants are evergreen and will last all year. In colder climates, the leaves may die back. If protected by snow or mulch, the leaves will turn brown but stay in place. If exposed to the cold winter air, the leaves will die and new ones will grow in the spring. This is fine, though the new leaf growth will take a month or two to come back and the plant won’t be as attractive in the spring.
Growing Brass Buttons
Growing brass buttons in the garden is very easy. In cooler climates, the plants like full sun, but in hotter areas, they fare better with partial light shade. They will grow in a wide range of soils, though they prefer well drained, rich soil with frequent watering. They spread aggressively through runners just underground. You may need to dig them up and separate them every now and again in order to keep them in check.
While some varieties boast green leaves, one particular variety that is very popular is called Platt’s Black, named for the garden of Jane Platt in which the plant was first documented. This variety has dark, almost black leaves with green tips and very dark flowers. Growing black brass buttons in the garden is a matter of personal taste – some gardeners think it looks on the verge of death, while others think it looks fascinating, especially interspersed with a bright green variety. Either way, the plant makes an exceptional specimen in the garden.
Leptinella Information
Brass buttons gets its name from the small yellow to green flowers it produces in the spring. The plant is in the daisy family, and its flowers look very much like the centers of daisy flowers, minus the long white petals. These small, hard looking flowers are said to resemble buttons.
Leptinella brass button plants are native to New Zealand but are widespread now. They are hardy from USDA zones 4 through 9, though just what that means depends on the zone. In 9 and 10, the plants are evergreen and will last all year. In colder climates, the leaves may die back. If protected by snow or mulch, the leaves will turn brown but stay in place. If exposed to the cold winter air, the leaves will die and new ones will grow in the spring. This is fine, though the new leaf growth will take a month or two to come back and the plant won’t be as attractive in the spring.
Growing Brass Buttons
Growing brass buttons in the garden is very easy. In cooler climates, the plants like full sun, but in hotter areas, they fare better with partial light shade. They will grow in a wide range of soils, though they prefer well drained, rich soil with frequent watering. They spread aggressively through runners just underground. You may need to dig them up and separate them every now and again in order to keep them in check.
While some varieties boast green leaves, one particular variety that is very popular is called Platt’s Black, named for the garden of Jane Platt in which the plant was first documented. This variety has dark, almost black leaves with green tips and very dark flowers. Growing black brass buttons in the garden is a matter of personal taste – some gardeners think it looks on the verge of death, while others think it looks fascinating, especially interspersed with a bright green variety. Either way, the plant makes an exceptional specimen in the garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月29日
Selecting Your Roses
Roses are one of the most celebrated and recognized flowers in the world. With a little research or a visit to your local garden store, you will be able to determine which roses grow best in your area. How long it takes to grow roses depends upon the type of roses you select, the climate and soil quality in your garden. Roses are generally planted in the ground in early Spring in most areas but may be planted in late Fall in mild climates. Most roses will be ready for their first blooms in the summer. Floribunda, hybrid tea and shrub/hedge roses usually bloom six to eight weeks after planting. Climbing roses generally have a limited bloom during the first season but have a large bloom by the second year after planting.
Purchasing and Planting Your Roses
There are many different types of roses and their rate of growth is dependent upon the climate as well as the care they receive. To achieve maximum growth and blooms, select roses that are recommended for your area. If you purchased bare root roses through the mail, plant them as soon as possible. When you are ready to plant, fill a bucket with room-temperature water. Carefully unwrap the bare root plants from their packaging and then soak the root system in the water for approximately one hour prior to planting. Dig a cone-shaped hole 18 inches deep and spread the roots evenly. Remove any damaged, dead or broken roots and stems prior to planting. Add a mixture of soil combined up to a maximum of 25 percent compost and manure. Pack soil mixture firmly to fill in the hole and water.
Potted roses should be watered and placed in a sunny location. If you are planning to plant the potted roses in your garden, remove any damaged, dead or broken stems prior to planting. Dig a hole, place the rose bush into the hole and add a combination the soil, compost and manure mixture which has been mixed with loose soil from the container. Water lightly.
Growth of Popular Roses
Producing the classic long stemmed roses commonly sold by florists, Hybrid Teas are one of those most popular variety of roses. Mature Hybrid Tea plants can grow up to five feet high. Also growing up to five feet and with similar blooms, Grandifloras produce clusters of hybrid-tea roses but with shorter stems.
Climbing roses can be trained to entwine a trellis, a wall or an arbor but they frequently do not reach full blooming capacity until the second year of growth. Although they are usually between ten to twelve feet tall or wide, some climbing roses can grow up to twenty feet.
Floribundas are easy to grow roses which generally bloom continuously from June until the first hard frost. Averaging between two and four feet tall, Floribundas feature clusters of flowers on short stems.
Shrub roses are very hardy and will tolerate cool climates. Ranging between two to five feet tall, shrub roses will bloom heavily and frequently throughout the season. Due to their productivity, they have a large quantity of rose hips that need to be pruned regularly.
Mini roses feature petite blooms and are available in a variety of colors. Most mini rose plants average approximately fourteen inches high but these hardy roses can reach a height of up to three feet.
Roses are one of the most celebrated and recognized flowers in the world. With a little research or a visit to your local garden store, you will be able to determine which roses grow best in your area. How long it takes to grow roses depends upon the type of roses you select, the climate and soil quality in your garden. Roses are generally planted in the ground in early Spring in most areas but may be planted in late Fall in mild climates. Most roses will be ready for their first blooms in the summer. Floribunda, hybrid tea and shrub/hedge roses usually bloom six to eight weeks after planting. Climbing roses generally have a limited bloom during the first season but have a large bloom by the second year after planting.
Purchasing and Planting Your Roses
There are many different types of roses and their rate of growth is dependent upon the climate as well as the care they receive. To achieve maximum growth and blooms, select roses that are recommended for your area. If you purchased bare root roses through the mail, plant them as soon as possible. When you are ready to plant, fill a bucket with room-temperature water. Carefully unwrap the bare root plants from their packaging and then soak the root system in the water for approximately one hour prior to planting. Dig a cone-shaped hole 18 inches deep and spread the roots evenly. Remove any damaged, dead or broken roots and stems prior to planting. Add a mixture of soil combined up to a maximum of 25 percent compost and manure. Pack soil mixture firmly to fill in the hole and water.
Potted roses should be watered and placed in a sunny location. If you are planning to plant the potted roses in your garden, remove any damaged, dead or broken stems prior to planting. Dig a hole, place the rose bush into the hole and add a combination the soil, compost and manure mixture which has been mixed with loose soil from the container. Water lightly.
Growth of Popular Roses
Producing the classic long stemmed roses commonly sold by florists, Hybrid Teas are one of those most popular variety of roses. Mature Hybrid Tea plants can grow up to five feet high. Also growing up to five feet and with similar blooms, Grandifloras produce clusters of hybrid-tea roses but with shorter stems.
Climbing roses can be trained to entwine a trellis, a wall or an arbor but they frequently do not reach full blooming capacity until the second year of growth. Although they are usually between ten to twelve feet tall or wide, some climbing roses can grow up to twenty feet.
Floribundas are easy to grow roses which generally bloom continuously from June until the first hard frost. Averaging between two and four feet tall, Floribundas feature clusters of flowers on short stems.
Shrub roses are very hardy and will tolerate cool climates. Ranging between two to five feet tall, shrub roses will bloom heavily and frequently throughout the season. Due to their productivity, they have a large quantity of rose hips that need to be pruned regularly.
Mini roses feature petite blooms and are available in a variety of colors. Most mini rose plants average approximately fourteen inches high but these hardy roses can reach a height of up to three feet.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
As gardeners, some of us grow plants for food, some because they are beautiful and aromatic, and some for the wild critters to feast on, but all of us are interested in a new plant. Unique specimens that will have the neighbors talking include Scorpiurus muricatus plants, also known as prickly scorpion’s tail plant. What is prickly scorpion’s tail and is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Let’s learn more about caring for prickly scorpion’s tail.
What is Prickly Scorpion’s Tail?
Scorpiurus muricatus is an unusual annual legume native to southern Europe. Listed by Vilmorin in the 1800’s, the plant has unique pods that twist and roll in upon themselves. The name “prickly scorpion’s tail” was no doubt given due to the resemblance but its other common name of “prickly caterpillar” is far more apt in my opinion. The pods do indeed look just like fuzzy, green caterpillars. Scorpiurus muricatus plants are most often used as a ground cover. They have lovely tiny yellow flowers that are hermaphroditic, having both male and female organs. This herbaceous annual blooms continuously from mid-summer. A member of the Papilionacea family, the plants attain a height of between 6-12 inches.
Caring for Prickly Scorpion’s Tail
Seeds can be direct sown outdoors after all danger of frost has passed or inside for a jump start. Sow seed ¼ inch beneath the soil 3-4 weeks before the last frost if sowing indoors. Germination time for prickly scorpion’s tail is 10-14 days. Choose a site in sun to partial shade. The plant is not too picky regarding its soil and can be sown in sandy, loamy or even heavy clay as long as the soil is well draining. Soil can be acidic, neutral to alkaline. When caring for prickly scorpion’s tail, keep the plants moist to a little dry, not sodden.
Oh, and the burning question. Is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Yes, but it has an uninteresting flavor and is a bit prickly. It would make a great icebreaker at your next party tossed casually in amongst the green salad though! This plant is fun and a historical oddity. Allow the pods to dry on the plant and then break them open to collect the seeds. Then pass them on to a friend so he/she can gross out the kids with caterpillars in their food.
What is Prickly Scorpion’s Tail?
Scorpiurus muricatus is an unusual annual legume native to southern Europe. Listed by Vilmorin in the 1800’s, the plant has unique pods that twist and roll in upon themselves. The name “prickly scorpion’s tail” was no doubt given due to the resemblance but its other common name of “prickly caterpillar” is far more apt in my opinion. The pods do indeed look just like fuzzy, green caterpillars. Scorpiurus muricatus plants are most often used as a ground cover. They have lovely tiny yellow flowers that are hermaphroditic, having both male and female organs. This herbaceous annual blooms continuously from mid-summer. A member of the Papilionacea family, the plants attain a height of between 6-12 inches.
Caring for Prickly Scorpion’s Tail
Seeds can be direct sown outdoors after all danger of frost has passed or inside for a jump start. Sow seed ¼ inch beneath the soil 3-4 weeks before the last frost if sowing indoors. Germination time for prickly scorpion’s tail is 10-14 days. Choose a site in sun to partial shade. The plant is not too picky regarding its soil and can be sown in sandy, loamy or even heavy clay as long as the soil is well draining. Soil can be acidic, neutral to alkaline. When caring for prickly scorpion’s tail, keep the plants moist to a little dry, not sodden.
Oh, and the burning question. Is Scorpiurus muricatus edible? Yes, but it has an uninteresting flavor and is a bit prickly. It would make a great icebreaker at your next party tossed casually in amongst the green salad though! This plant is fun and a historical oddity. Allow the pods to dry on the plant and then break them open to collect the seeds. Then pass them on to a friend so he/she can gross out the kids with caterpillars in their food.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Periwinkle, also known as Vinca or creeping myrtle, is one of the easiest to grow ground covers or trailing plants. However, its tendency to root at the internodes where stems touch the ground can make it an invasive competitor to other plants. Getting rid of periwinkle takes some serious elbow grease unless you wish to resort to chemicals. There are at least two useful periwinkle control methods in the following text.
Periwinkle Control Methods
Periwinkle is a very popular ground cover due to its glossy evergreen leaves and bright starry blue flowers. The plants establish and grow quickly, with remarkable tolerance to poor soils, unfavorable weather conditions and even mechanical damage. Mowing or string trimming the plant to keep it in a manageable condition works well in containing the tangled stems. But be cautious with the trimmings, as periwinkle will produce new plants with just a tiny bit of stem to ground contact, even once severed from the parent plant. This creates an issue, and many gardeners evince the desire to completely remove periwinkle ground cover.
It may seem sensible to just pull the plants, but any little bit of plant material or the presence of underground stems will send Vinca growing thickly again in no time. The waxy leaves are quite resistant to chemical herbicides as the cuticle repels any topical application. Control of periwinkle must remove all of the roots and stems to prevent recurrence. Some plants can be grazed out, but periwinkle is not edible to grazing animals due to a milky latex sap. Manual removal is the least toxic method but the roots may grow several feet in the ground so deep digging is necessary.
Control of Periwinkle with Herbicides
Several states classify periwinkle as an invasive weed. For periwinkle weed control in large areas where digging is not practical, use an oil based herbicide. The cuticle on the leaves repels water based applications, but the oil base will allow the chemicals to adhere to the leave and gradually travel into the vascular system of the plant. Triclopyr mixed with mineral oil is effective but applications will need to be repeated as straggler plants crop up. Getting rid of periwinkle generally takes several seasons no matter what method you choose because of its hardiness and tenacity. Spray in winter when all other nearby vegetation has died back.
Remove Periwinkle Ground Cover Manually
Alright, it sounds like a pain in the-you-know-what, but manual removal really works best. Dig deep into the soil, starting at the edge of the problem area. Remember that periwinkle weed control relies upon complete removal of those roots, which may be several feet into the soil. Make a two-foot trench around the area and loosen the first section of roots. Pull as you dig further into the bed, loosening the soil as you go. The next season, if you see any small plants forming, immediately dig them out.
In this way you will be rid of the ground cover permanently in a couple of years and other plants can take over the area. It won’t be easy, but it is a non-toxic removal that is effective.
Periwinkle Control Methods
Periwinkle is a very popular ground cover due to its glossy evergreen leaves and bright starry blue flowers. The plants establish and grow quickly, with remarkable tolerance to poor soils, unfavorable weather conditions and even mechanical damage. Mowing or string trimming the plant to keep it in a manageable condition works well in containing the tangled stems. But be cautious with the trimmings, as periwinkle will produce new plants with just a tiny bit of stem to ground contact, even once severed from the parent plant. This creates an issue, and many gardeners evince the desire to completely remove periwinkle ground cover.
It may seem sensible to just pull the plants, but any little bit of plant material or the presence of underground stems will send Vinca growing thickly again in no time. The waxy leaves are quite resistant to chemical herbicides as the cuticle repels any topical application. Control of periwinkle must remove all of the roots and stems to prevent recurrence. Some plants can be grazed out, but periwinkle is not edible to grazing animals due to a milky latex sap. Manual removal is the least toxic method but the roots may grow several feet in the ground so deep digging is necessary.
Control of Periwinkle with Herbicides
Several states classify periwinkle as an invasive weed. For periwinkle weed control in large areas where digging is not practical, use an oil based herbicide. The cuticle on the leaves repels water based applications, but the oil base will allow the chemicals to adhere to the leave and gradually travel into the vascular system of the plant. Triclopyr mixed with mineral oil is effective but applications will need to be repeated as straggler plants crop up. Getting rid of periwinkle generally takes several seasons no matter what method you choose because of its hardiness and tenacity. Spray in winter when all other nearby vegetation has died back.
Remove Periwinkle Ground Cover Manually
Alright, it sounds like a pain in the-you-know-what, but manual removal really works best. Dig deep into the soil, starting at the edge of the problem area. Remember that periwinkle weed control relies upon complete removal of those roots, which may be several feet into the soil. Make a two-foot trench around the area and loosen the first section of roots. Pull as you dig further into the bed, loosening the soil as you go. The next season, if you see any small plants forming, immediately dig them out.
In this way you will be rid of the ground cover permanently in a couple of years and other plants can take over the area. It won’t be easy, but it is a non-toxic removal that is effective.
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