文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
One of the boldest and easiest to grow perennial plants is the hosta. These large leaved beauties come in a range of sizes and hues and thrive in semi-shady areas of the garden with little extra care. However, pests on hosta plants can damage the exceptional foliage and diminish the plant’s health. Check out some of the common hosta pests so you know what to look for and how to control these damaging little devils.
Recognizing Pests on Hosta Plants
Native to Asia, hosta plants now come in a range of cultivars and species readily available to gardeners. While hostas are fairly self-sufficient, hosta insect pests can really wreak havoc on the attractive leaves. Hosta plants are primarily grown for their majestic foliage, although they do produce lovely racemes of flowers that add to the stature of this low light loving plant.
It is best to get on the ground floor of hosta pest control right as the new leaves are beginning to poke through the soil in early spring. Waiting to address pests on hosta plants may find you with shredded, discolored or deformed leaves, diminishing the beauty of the plant. Some of the damage by insects will be easily recognizable. That is especially true for chewing insects who will make holes in leaves, remove the edges of foliage and leave your prized hosta looking like a ragged version of itself.
Other hosta insect pests cause more subtle damage. Hosta leaf nematode damage may be mistaken for a disease. These microscopic roundworms cause unsightly leaves that begin with yellowing streaks and develops into reddish brown widened areas of damage between the veins. Completely wilted plants that collapse upon themselves may be victims to voles, who tunnel under the plant and eat the roots. If you wake up one morning and find that you have absolutely no hosta foliage at all, you probably live in deer country. Hostas are just like candy to these foragers. Fences and repellents may be effective.
Common Hosta Pests
Outside of deer, rabbits and voles, hosta insect pests will be the most frequent issue. By far the most widespread damage in temperate, moist regions will be from slugs and snails. Their feeding activity leaves smooth chunks missing from the foliage. You can discern their presence by spotting the slime trails they leave behind. These pests are nocturnal and hide in mulch but a good organic slug and snail bait should prevent widespread damage. Other chompers who view the hosta plant as a buffet might be cutworms blister beetles and grasshoppers. These eat the leaves and chew into the veins, leaving behind shot holes, ragged gaps and tears at the edges of leaves. The timing of hosta pest control for these insects is critical to a successful fight and undamaged leaves.
Treating Bugs on Hosta Plants
There are many broad spectrum pesticides on the market, but it is best to avoid these as they may also target beneficial insects. Slug and snail baits are available and should be applied around the hosta garden in early spring and consistently after rains and irrigation. You may also try burying a small can or container at the hosta borders filled with an inch or so of beer. Protect young hosta shoots from cutworms by surrounding the new foliage with a physical barrier such as a cardboard ring. Remove it once the new shoots are a couple of inches off the ground.
Other hosta pests are a bit harder to control without chemicals. Choose a non-toxic formula and apply in early spring when the pests are in their nymph stage. Nematodes can be combated with purchased beneficial nematodes. For larger insects you can simply pluck them off the foliage and destroy the pest. Slugs, snails and cutworms will be found at night so get a good flashlight and smashing boots to save your hostas from these damaging nuisances.
Recognizing Pests on Hosta Plants
Native to Asia, hosta plants now come in a range of cultivars and species readily available to gardeners. While hostas are fairly self-sufficient, hosta insect pests can really wreak havoc on the attractive leaves. Hosta plants are primarily grown for their majestic foliage, although they do produce lovely racemes of flowers that add to the stature of this low light loving plant.
It is best to get on the ground floor of hosta pest control right as the new leaves are beginning to poke through the soil in early spring. Waiting to address pests on hosta plants may find you with shredded, discolored or deformed leaves, diminishing the beauty of the plant. Some of the damage by insects will be easily recognizable. That is especially true for chewing insects who will make holes in leaves, remove the edges of foliage and leave your prized hosta looking like a ragged version of itself.
Other hosta insect pests cause more subtle damage. Hosta leaf nematode damage may be mistaken for a disease. These microscopic roundworms cause unsightly leaves that begin with yellowing streaks and develops into reddish brown widened areas of damage between the veins. Completely wilted plants that collapse upon themselves may be victims to voles, who tunnel under the plant and eat the roots. If you wake up one morning and find that you have absolutely no hosta foliage at all, you probably live in deer country. Hostas are just like candy to these foragers. Fences and repellents may be effective.
Common Hosta Pests
Outside of deer, rabbits and voles, hosta insect pests will be the most frequent issue. By far the most widespread damage in temperate, moist regions will be from slugs and snails. Their feeding activity leaves smooth chunks missing from the foliage. You can discern their presence by spotting the slime trails they leave behind. These pests are nocturnal and hide in mulch but a good organic slug and snail bait should prevent widespread damage. Other chompers who view the hosta plant as a buffet might be cutworms blister beetles and grasshoppers. These eat the leaves and chew into the veins, leaving behind shot holes, ragged gaps and tears at the edges of leaves. The timing of hosta pest control for these insects is critical to a successful fight and undamaged leaves.
Treating Bugs on Hosta Plants
There are many broad spectrum pesticides on the market, but it is best to avoid these as they may also target beneficial insects. Slug and snail baits are available and should be applied around the hosta garden in early spring and consistently after rains and irrigation. You may also try burying a small can or container at the hosta borders filled with an inch or so of beer. Protect young hosta shoots from cutworms by surrounding the new foliage with a physical barrier such as a cardboard ring. Remove it once the new shoots are a couple of inches off the ground.
Other hosta pests are a bit harder to control without chemicals. Choose a non-toxic formula and apply in early spring when the pests are in their nymph stage. Nematodes can be combated with purchased beneficial nematodes. For larger insects you can simply pluck them off the foliage and destroy the pest. Slugs, snails and cutworms will be found at night so get a good flashlight and smashing boots to save your hostas from these damaging nuisances.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Do hosta plants have flowers? Yes, they do. Hosta plants grow flowers, and some are lovely and fragrant. But hosta plants are known for their gorgeous overlapping leaves, not for hosta plant flowers. Read on for information about flowers on hosta plants and for an answer to the question: should you let hosta grow flowers.
Do Hosta Plants Have Flowers?
Every hosta plant grows flowers. But not every hosta plant flowering is a welcome sight to the gardener. Many gardeners select hostas for the shade garden because of their lush foliage, not hosta plant flowers. The mounding leaves of cultivars can be spectacular, ranging in color from standard green to blues, white and gold. They also come in many shapes, sizes and textures. For example, if you want a very small hosta, you can plant “Baby Bunting” that even at maturity is only a few inches wide. Other hosta plants, like “Blue Angel,” can grow to over 8 feet in diameter. Because of this emphasis on foliage, hosta flowers can be viewed as an extra plus for the plant. They can also been seen as a distraction from the main show.
Flowers on Hosta Plants
Hosta plant flowering can be a very fancy affair. The plants flower in summer, offering spikes of blossoms that look like lilies, in shades of lavender or white. The bell-shaped blooms can be showy and exceptionally fragrant, attracting hummingbirds and bees. New cultivars are being developed that offer even larger, more impressive blooms. Some offer up to 75 flowers per stem. In short, hosta flowers can add ornamental value to a hosta plant. Yet, many gardeners still ask: should you let hosta grow flowers?
Should You Let Hosta Grow Flowers?
Whether you want pure foliage or will accept hosta plant flowers is a matter of personal taste. Each gardener must make up his or her own mind. The quality of the blossoms your hosta plant flowering produces might influence your decision. Many gardeners like tall flower scapes, but not every plant produces them. Sometimes, especially with the white-flowered hostas, the flower scapes are awkwardly short and stunted. And whether or not you allow them to bloom, you’ll want to clip the scapes when the blossoms fade. Faded hosta flowers are not attractive.
Do Hosta Plants Have Flowers?
Every hosta plant grows flowers. But not every hosta plant flowering is a welcome sight to the gardener. Many gardeners select hostas for the shade garden because of their lush foliage, not hosta plant flowers. The mounding leaves of cultivars can be spectacular, ranging in color from standard green to blues, white and gold. They also come in many shapes, sizes and textures. For example, if you want a very small hosta, you can plant “Baby Bunting” that even at maturity is only a few inches wide. Other hosta plants, like “Blue Angel,” can grow to over 8 feet in diameter. Because of this emphasis on foliage, hosta flowers can be viewed as an extra plus for the plant. They can also been seen as a distraction from the main show.
Flowers on Hosta Plants
Hosta plant flowering can be a very fancy affair. The plants flower in summer, offering spikes of blossoms that look like lilies, in shades of lavender or white. The bell-shaped blooms can be showy and exceptionally fragrant, attracting hummingbirds and bees. New cultivars are being developed that offer even larger, more impressive blooms. Some offer up to 75 flowers per stem. In short, hosta flowers can add ornamental value to a hosta plant. Yet, many gardeners still ask: should you let hosta grow flowers?
Should You Let Hosta Grow Flowers?
Whether you want pure foliage or will accept hosta plant flowers is a matter of personal taste. Each gardener must make up his or her own mind. The quality of the blossoms your hosta plant flowering produces might influence your decision. Many gardeners like tall flower scapes, but not every plant produces them. Sometimes, especially with the white-flowered hostas, the flower scapes are awkwardly short and stunted. And whether or not you allow them to bloom, you’ll want to clip the scapes when the blossoms fade. Faded hosta flowers are not attractive.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas have become extremely popular in the last few years, with good reason. Gardeners love hostas for their colorful foliage, versatility, toughness, easy growth habits and ability to grow and thrive without bright sunlight.
Plants that Grow Well with Hosta
Once you’ve decided that hostas are the best plant for that shady garden spot, it’s time to think about the best hosta plant companions. Although they’re gorgeous on their own, it helps to add a few plants that show them off to best advantage.
Hosta performs well in full or partial shade, so the best companions for hosta are those that are suitable for the same growing conditions. Climate isn’t a huge consideration unless you live in a very warm climate, as hosta grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9.
Blue and green hostas are easiest to coordinate with other plants, including colorful annuals and perennials. Gold or yellow shades or variegations are trickier, as the colors may clash with other plants, especially when the hues lean towards chartreuse. Often, it works to echo the colors in the leaves. For example, a hosta with blue leaves is complemented by purple, red or pink flowers, while a variegated hosta with a splash of white or silver looks stunning with white flowers or other plants with silvery leaves.
Companions for Hosta
Here are a few suggestions to get you started:
Spring bulbs
Trillium
Snowdrops
Tulips
Crocus
Daffodils
Anemone
Caladiums
Ornamental grass
Sedges (Carex)
Japanese forest grass
Northern sea oats
Shrubs
Rhododendron
Azalea
Hydrangea
Perennials
Wild ginger
Pulmonaria
Heuchera
Ajuga
Dianthus
Astilbe
Maidenhair fern
Japanese painted fern
Annuals
Begonias
Impatiens
Coleus
Plants that Grow Well with Hosta
Once you’ve decided that hostas are the best plant for that shady garden spot, it’s time to think about the best hosta plant companions. Although they’re gorgeous on their own, it helps to add a few plants that show them off to best advantage.
Hosta performs well in full or partial shade, so the best companions for hosta are those that are suitable for the same growing conditions. Climate isn’t a huge consideration unless you live in a very warm climate, as hosta grows in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 9.
Blue and green hostas are easiest to coordinate with other plants, including colorful annuals and perennials. Gold or yellow shades or variegations are trickier, as the colors may clash with other plants, especially when the hues lean towards chartreuse. Often, it works to echo the colors in the leaves. For example, a hosta with blue leaves is complemented by purple, red or pink flowers, while a variegated hosta with a splash of white or silver looks stunning with white flowers or other plants with silvery leaves.
Companions for Hosta
Here are a few suggestions to get you started:
Spring bulbs
Trillium
Snowdrops
Tulips
Crocus
Daffodils
Anemone
Caladiums
Ornamental grass
Sedges (Carex)
Japanese forest grass
Northern sea oats
Shrubs
Rhododendron
Azalea
Hydrangea
Perennials
Wild ginger
Pulmonaria
Heuchera
Ajuga
Dianthus
Astilbe
Maidenhair fern
Japanese painted fern
Annuals
Begonias
Impatiens
Coleus
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Hostas are popular with many gardeners because they are easy to grow and maintain. They are perennials, coming back year after year, and they tolerate shade. Hostas tend to grow large, but if your space is limited, growing the adorably mouse-ear hosta may be for you. If you want to know how to grow mouse-ear hosta, here’s what you need to know.
What is a Mouse-Ear Hosta?
Miniature hostas are just what they sound like: miniature versions of the hosta plants you know and love. Blue mouse-ear hosta is one variety of this cute little perennial that is easy to grow and care for in a variety of settings. At a maximum, these little plants grow to a height of eight inches (20 cm.) and a spread of 12 inches (30 cm.). The leaves are thick, blue-green, rubbery, and curl inward a little bit, like a mouse’s ear.
Mouse-Ear Hosta Information and Care
The blue mouse-ear hosta grows into a compact little mound with near-perfect symmetry, so it is a beautiful addition to gardens, especially small spaces. It will produce showy, pale purple, bell-shaped flowers on stalks in midsummer. Mouse-ear hosta care is as easy as the care of regular-sized hostas. They prefer part to full shade and soil that drains well. Unlike the larger varieties, these little hostas don’t tolerate heavy or clay soil very well. If you plan to place your mouse-ear hosta in the ground, you can amend the soil by mixing in pea gravel. Mulch is also important for miniature hosta plants. Because they are small, even a mild rain can splash up dirt and mud and leave the foliage looking messy.
Growing mouse-ear hosta is versatile as well as easy. These more compact plants are great for containers, but they can also be placed anywhere in the garden that a normal-sized hosta would go. Because of the small size and compact arrangement of foliage, mouse-ear hosta also makes a great groundcover for those shady areas where grass doesn’t grow well. They look nice in rock gardens and around water features. The possibilities for mouse-ear hosta are nearly endless, and they make great additions to nearly every type of garden.
What is a Mouse-Ear Hosta?
Miniature hostas are just what they sound like: miniature versions of the hosta plants you know and love. Blue mouse-ear hosta is one variety of this cute little perennial that is easy to grow and care for in a variety of settings. At a maximum, these little plants grow to a height of eight inches (20 cm.) and a spread of 12 inches (30 cm.). The leaves are thick, blue-green, rubbery, and curl inward a little bit, like a mouse’s ear.
Mouse-Ear Hosta Information and Care
The blue mouse-ear hosta grows into a compact little mound with near-perfect symmetry, so it is a beautiful addition to gardens, especially small spaces. It will produce showy, pale purple, bell-shaped flowers on stalks in midsummer. Mouse-ear hosta care is as easy as the care of regular-sized hostas. They prefer part to full shade and soil that drains well. Unlike the larger varieties, these little hostas don’t tolerate heavy or clay soil very well. If you plan to place your mouse-ear hosta in the ground, you can amend the soil by mixing in pea gravel. Mulch is also important for miniature hosta plants. Because they are small, even a mild rain can splash up dirt and mud and leave the foliage looking messy.
Growing mouse-ear hosta is versatile as well as easy. These more compact plants are great for containers, but they can also be placed anywhere in the garden that a normal-sized hosta would go. Because of the small size and compact arrangement of foliage, mouse-ear hosta also makes a great groundcover for those shady areas where grass doesn’t grow well. They look nice in rock gardens and around water features. The possibilities for mouse-ear hosta are nearly endless, and they make great additions to nearly every type of garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
If you’re looking to make a statement in your yard and have some low-lying ground to plant, the Gunnera is a great choice for visual impact. Let’s learn more about how to grow Gunnera plants.
Gunnera Plant Information
Sometimes called Dinosaur Food (Gunnera manicata), the Gunnera’s deeply-lobed leaves can get up to 4 feet across and the plant can stand up to 8 feet tall. Gunnera tinctoria, also known as prickly rhubarb, is similar and just as big. Both of these prehistoric-looking greenery plants will fill in large empty spaces in the corners and edges of your yard, and will thrive in boggy ground where other plants’ roots might drown.
Growing and Caring for Gunnera
The most difficult part about caring for Gunnera is its moisture requirements. If you have a piece of ground that is constantly saturated from deck run-off or some low ground at the bottom of a hill, you’ve found the ideal place for growing Gunnera plants. Gunnera loves moist and boggy ground and must be kept well-watered at all times. Set a sprinkler next to the plant and let it go for an hour or so, as the leaves love moisture as much as the roots do. Choose your planting spot in low ground that gets full sunlight for at least most of the day. Dig in lots of compost and other organic material when preparing the ground for planting. Give the plant a heavy feeding when you first plant it to give it a good start.
It takes a lot of energy to create this much growth, and this makes Gunnera a heavy feeder. In addition to the fertilizer you dig in with the first planting, feed them twice more during the season with a good, all purpose fertilizer. Side dress the plants and water the fertilizer into the soil next to the crown. Many perennial plants can be propagated by dividing, but the Gunnera is so large that this method is hard to use. The best way to increase your Gunnera plot is by cutting out a portion of the crown much like you’d remove a wedge of pie. Do this in April or May before the main growth has begun. Plant this new juvenile plant at least 10 feet away to give both plants room to grow.
Gunnera may be tough, but it can be damaged by winter frost. Cut the leaves down around November and pile them on top of the center crown left in the ground. This will insulate the more tender parts of the plant from the cold. Remove the dead leaves early in the spring to allow new growth to spring up.
Gunnera Plant Information
Sometimes called Dinosaur Food (Gunnera manicata), the Gunnera’s deeply-lobed leaves can get up to 4 feet across and the plant can stand up to 8 feet tall. Gunnera tinctoria, also known as prickly rhubarb, is similar and just as big. Both of these prehistoric-looking greenery plants will fill in large empty spaces in the corners and edges of your yard, and will thrive in boggy ground where other plants’ roots might drown.
Growing and Caring for Gunnera
The most difficult part about caring for Gunnera is its moisture requirements. If you have a piece of ground that is constantly saturated from deck run-off or some low ground at the bottom of a hill, you’ve found the ideal place for growing Gunnera plants. Gunnera loves moist and boggy ground and must be kept well-watered at all times. Set a sprinkler next to the plant and let it go for an hour or so, as the leaves love moisture as much as the roots do. Choose your planting spot in low ground that gets full sunlight for at least most of the day. Dig in lots of compost and other organic material when preparing the ground for planting. Give the plant a heavy feeding when you first plant it to give it a good start.
It takes a lot of energy to create this much growth, and this makes Gunnera a heavy feeder. In addition to the fertilizer you dig in with the first planting, feed them twice more during the season with a good, all purpose fertilizer. Side dress the plants and water the fertilizer into the soil next to the crown. Many perennial plants can be propagated by dividing, but the Gunnera is so large that this method is hard to use. The best way to increase your Gunnera plot is by cutting out a portion of the crown much like you’d remove a wedge of pie. Do this in April or May before the main growth has begun. Plant this new juvenile plant at least 10 feet away to give both plants room to grow.
Gunnera may be tough, but it can be damaged by winter frost. Cut the leaves down around November and pile them on top of the center crown left in the ground. This will insulate the more tender parts of the plant from the cold. Remove the dead leaves early in the spring to allow new growth to spring up.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Fountain grass (Pennisetum) is a mound-forming ornamental grass and a garden favorite, as the care of fountain grass is easy. The cascading leaves on this plant have a fountain-like appearance. Clump-forming grasses grow in mounds or clumps, making them ideal for many areas without becoming invasive. It can be used alone as a specimen plant or in a border alongside other perennials. Fountain grass is an attractive perennial grass densely clumped growth. Blooming of its foxtail-looking flowers generally takes place from late summer through the fall. The small flowers of fountain grass are tan, pink or purple. During fall and throughout winter, this plant will also reward gardeners with spectacular foliage displays.
Types of Fountain Grass
There are different types of fountain grass to choose, ranging in size from 12 inches to 3 feet. One of the most common varieties is dwarf fountain grass Hameln (P. alopecuroides ‘Hameln’). Its light tan blooms turn pinkish brown in fall. This fountain grass blooms earlier than the others, making it a great choice for gardens with shorter growing seasons. Purple fountain grass (P. setaceum) has both purple foliage and blooms. Used for its reddish foliage and showy flowers is red fountain grass (P. setaceum ‘Rubrum’), which grows about 3 to 4 feet tall. Other types of fountain grass cultivars include ‘Cassian,’ ‘Little Bunny’, ‘Little Honey’, and ‘Moudry’.
Growing Fountain Grass
Growing fountain grass is easy. As with most ornamental grasses, fountain grass is extremely adaptable. Care of fountain grass is easy as well. It’s sometimes helpful to cut back the foliage in the spring prior to growth. Although not specifically a requirement for fountain grass, fertilizer can be applied as growth resumes in the spring. Established plants do not need regular watering, except during periods of drought. Fountain grass does well in nearly any type of soil; however, for greater results, fountain grass should be planted in fertile, well-drained soil. Fountain grass enjoys full sun but tolerates some light shade. Look for areas receiving full sun, as these plants prefer warm conditions. Warm-season grasses thrive in warmer temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 F. (24-29 C.).
Transplanting Fountain Grass
Transplanting fountain grass is not always necessary; however, it can be dug up and divided in areas where overcrowding may occur or if more plants are simply desired. Division usually depends on spacing or visual appearance. For instance, plants suffering from die-out in the center can be divided to improve their appearance. Division can be performed in early spring prior to new growth or after the growing season in the late summer or fall. Taking care of fountain grass is a rewarding undertaking for a gardener. By growing fountain grass, you add a low maintenance option to your garden.
Types of Fountain Grass
There are different types of fountain grass to choose, ranging in size from 12 inches to 3 feet. One of the most common varieties is dwarf fountain grass Hameln (P. alopecuroides ‘Hameln’). Its light tan blooms turn pinkish brown in fall. This fountain grass blooms earlier than the others, making it a great choice for gardens with shorter growing seasons. Purple fountain grass (P. setaceum) has both purple foliage and blooms. Used for its reddish foliage and showy flowers is red fountain grass (P. setaceum ‘Rubrum’), which grows about 3 to 4 feet tall. Other types of fountain grass cultivars include ‘Cassian,’ ‘Little Bunny’, ‘Little Honey’, and ‘Moudry’.
Growing Fountain Grass
Growing fountain grass is easy. As with most ornamental grasses, fountain grass is extremely adaptable. Care of fountain grass is easy as well. It’s sometimes helpful to cut back the foliage in the spring prior to growth. Although not specifically a requirement for fountain grass, fertilizer can be applied as growth resumes in the spring. Established plants do not need regular watering, except during periods of drought. Fountain grass does well in nearly any type of soil; however, for greater results, fountain grass should be planted in fertile, well-drained soil. Fountain grass enjoys full sun but tolerates some light shade. Look for areas receiving full sun, as these plants prefer warm conditions. Warm-season grasses thrive in warmer temperatures ranging from 75 to 85 F. (24-29 C.).
Transplanting Fountain Grass
Transplanting fountain grass is not always necessary; however, it can be dug up and divided in areas where overcrowding may occur or if more plants are simply desired. Division usually depends on spacing or visual appearance. For instance, plants suffering from die-out in the center can be divided to improve their appearance. Division can be performed in early spring prior to new growth or after the growing season in the late summer or fall. Taking care of fountain grass is a rewarding undertaking for a gardener. By growing fountain grass, you add a low maintenance option to your garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Can I grow coleus indoors? Sure, why not? Although coleus is typically grown outdoors as an annual, its vibrant leaves provide many months of enjoyment indoors if growing conditions are just right. In fact, coleus plants respond well to potted environments. Read on to learn more about growing coleus as an indoor plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
How to Grow a Coleus Houseplant
Growing coleus plants indoors isn’t at all difficult but does require a few basic needs when it comes to light and temperature.
Coleus likes bright light, but be careful of intense sunlight. Look for a spot where the plant gets bright morning sunlight but indirect light during the afternoon. You may need to supplement available light with artificial lights during the winter. Watch the plant closely. If the leaves fade and lose color, the plant is probably getting too much sunlight. However, if the plant is lackluster and drops its leaves, try giving it a little more light.
Coleus as an indoor plant performs best in temperatures between 60 and 75 F. (16-24 C). Winter temperatures should be cooler, but don’t expose the plant to temperatures below 50 F. (10 C). If you enjoy growing coleus plants indoors, you can always start new plants with 2-inch cuttings taken from a healthy, mature plant. Plant cuttings in moist potting soil, then keep them moist and warm until the new plants are established. At this point, resume normal care.
Indoor Coleus Care
Once you begin growing coleus as an indoor plant, its continued care is important in keeping the plant healthy. Here are some tips to help with that: Water regularly to keep the soil slightly moist – never bone dry and never soggy. Feed the plant once every week or two during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half-strength. Place the pot on a tray with a layer of wet pebbles if the air in your home is dry. (Never let the bottom of the pot stand directly in water.) Pinch the tips of the plant frequently to keep it bushy. Feel free to remove up to one-third of growth if the plant becomes long and leggy.
Remove blooms as soon as they appear, as they draw energy from the colorful foliage. If you allow blooming to continue, the plant will go to seed and die. If the plant gets too scraggly, it may be time to start fresh with a new plant.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Cinnamon ferns are tall, stately beauties that grow wild in swamps and on moist mountain slopes of eastern North America. They reach heights of 4 feet or more with two types of fronds that have distinctly different colors and textures. This attractive and interesting fern is an asset to any shady landscape. Continue reading to learn more about cinnamon fern plant info and how to grow a cinnamon fern in the garden.
Cinnamon Fern Plant Info
Cinnamon ferns (Osmundastrum cinnamomeum) produce two distinctly different types of fronds. Fertile, plume-like, cinnamon colored fronds grow at the center of the plant, giving way to the plant’s name. They are surrounded by larger, green, sterile fronds. The contrast between the two results in an appealing, multi-dimensional plant.
Cinnamon ferns have short creeping rhizomes that can be divided into two or more plants. Cut the dense, fibrous rhizomes apart between the crowns with a sharp knife or hacksaw. Trim back damaged or wilted fronds and remove every third frond from the divisions to make it easier for the plant to recover from the loss of root tissue. Replant the divisions right away and water deeply. Cinnamon fern care focuses on giving the plant plenty of water. Their native habitat is within streambeds, coastal areas and swampland and their range extends from Texas and Florida to as far north as Newfoundland. They can easily adapt to garden conditions but only if they are kept moist. How and when to plant cinnamon ferns in the garden is also an important part of cinnamon fern care.
When to Plant Cinnamon Ferns
You should plant cinnamon ferns in spring after the last expected frost of the season. The spacing depends upon their use in the garden. To add a tropical appeal to stream banks and swampy areas, plant them at 6-foot intervals. In the garden, plant them two feet apart to create a backdrop for spring and summer annuals and wildflowers. Cinnamon ferns make excellent specimen plants or accents when planted at the base of a tree.
How to Grow a Cinnamon Fern
Growing cinnamon ferns in the garden can add unique interest to the area. For best results, cinnamon ferns thrive in deep shade or filtered sunlight. They can tolerate more sun when grown in wet soil. Keep the soil around the ferns moist at all times. To avoid constant watering, plant them in soggy or boggy areas. Although cinnamon ferns adapt to a wide range of soil types, growing cinnamon ferns is easiest in a moist soil that is rich in organic matter. Work plenty of compost into sandy or clay soils before planting.
Cinnamon Fern Plant Info
Cinnamon ferns (Osmundastrum cinnamomeum) produce two distinctly different types of fronds. Fertile, plume-like, cinnamon colored fronds grow at the center of the plant, giving way to the plant’s name. They are surrounded by larger, green, sterile fronds. The contrast between the two results in an appealing, multi-dimensional plant.
Cinnamon ferns have short creeping rhizomes that can be divided into two or more plants. Cut the dense, fibrous rhizomes apart between the crowns with a sharp knife or hacksaw. Trim back damaged or wilted fronds and remove every third frond from the divisions to make it easier for the plant to recover from the loss of root tissue. Replant the divisions right away and water deeply. Cinnamon fern care focuses on giving the plant plenty of water. Their native habitat is within streambeds, coastal areas and swampland and their range extends from Texas and Florida to as far north as Newfoundland. They can easily adapt to garden conditions but only if they are kept moist. How and when to plant cinnamon ferns in the garden is also an important part of cinnamon fern care.
When to Plant Cinnamon Ferns
You should plant cinnamon ferns in spring after the last expected frost of the season. The spacing depends upon their use in the garden. To add a tropical appeal to stream banks and swampy areas, plant them at 6-foot intervals. In the garden, plant them two feet apart to create a backdrop for spring and summer annuals and wildflowers. Cinnamon ferns make excellent specimen plants or accents when planted at the base of a tree.
How to Grow a Cinnamon Fern
Growing cinnamon ferns in the garden can add unique interest to the area. For best results, cinnamon ferns thrive in deep shade or filtered sunlight. They can tolerate more sun when grown in wet soil. Keep the soil around the ferns moist at all times. To avoid constant watering, plant them in soggy or boggy areas. Although cinnamon ferns adapt to a wide range of soil types, growing cinnamon ferns is easiest in a moist soil that is rich in organic matter. Work plenty of compost into sandy or clay soils before planting.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Grasses add drama to the garden and accentuate and complement other garden specimens. If you are looking for an attractive ornamental grass with a unique color, look no farther than ornamental blue oat grass. Read on to see how to grow this blue hued ornamental oat grass variety.
What is Blue Oat Grass?
Native to Europe, ornamental blue oat grass (Avena sempervirens syn. Helictotrichon sempervirens) is a perennial grass with a dense, clumping habit of foot long stiff, blue green foliage about ½ inch wide and tapering down to a point. Blue oat grass resembles blue fescue although it is larger; the plant grows 18-30 inches tall.
Flowers are borne from the tips of the tapered leaves tipped with golden oat-like seed heads. Beige panicles are produced June through August, eventually achieving a light brown hue by fall. Blue oat grass maintains its attractive light brown fall color through the winter. Blue oat grass is good as an accent plant of in mass plantings. The blue/green foliage with a silvery cast is an excellent eye catcher and accents the green foliage of other plants.
How to Grow Blue Oat Grass
Ornamental blue oat grass is cool season grass. United States Department of Agriculture zones 4-9 are suitable for growing ornamental blue oat grass. The grass likes moist, well-drained soil in full to part shade. It prefers fertile soils but will tolerate less fertile as well as sandy and heavy clay soil. Plants are usually set two feet apart to form a solid mass of foliage. Additional plants can be propagated by division in the spring or fall. Blue oat grass does not spread via rhizomes or stolons like other grasses so it is a less invasive option for the landscape. New seedlings will pop up of their own accord, however, and can be removed or moved to another area of the garden.
Blue Oat Grass Care
Blue oat grass care is minimal, as it is a forgiving and hearty grass. Heavy shade and little air circulation foster foliar disease on blue oat grass but, otherwise, the plant has few problems. It does tend to get rusty looking, especially when it is overly humid and wet, usually if it is in a shaded area. No more than yearly feeding is needed to keep the plants thriving and they should last for years with very little care. Growing blue oat grass can be pruned back in the fall to remove old leaves or at any time they are looking a bit peaked and need some rejuvenation.
Of ornamental oat grass varieties, A. sempervirens is the most common, but another cultivar ‘Sapphire’ or ‘Saphirsprudel’ has an even more pronounced blue hue and is more rust resistant than A. sempervirens.
What is Blue Oat Grass?
Native to Europe, ornamental blue oat grass (Avena sempervirens syn. Helictotrichon sempervirens) is a perennial grass with a dense, clumping habit of foot long stiff, blue green foliage about ½ inch wide and tapering down to a point. Blue oat grass resembles blue fescue although it is larger; the plant grows 18-30 inches tall.
Flowers are borne from the tips of the tapered leaves tipped with golden oat-like seed heads. Beige panicles are produced June through August, eventually achieving a light brown hue by fall. Blue oat grass maintains its attractive light brown fall color through the winter. Blue oat grass is good as an accent plant of in mass plantings. The blue/green foliage with a silvery cast is an excellent eye catcher and accents the green foliage of other plants.
How to Grow Blue Oat Grass
Ornamental blue oat grass is cool season grass. United States Department of Agriculture zones 4-9 are suitable for growing ornamental blue oat grass. The grass likes moist, well-drained soil in full to part shade. It prefers fertile soils but will tolerate less fertile as well as sandy and heavy clay soil. Plants are usually set two feet apart to form a solid mass of foliage. Additional plants can be propagated by division in the spring or fall. Blue oat grass does not spread via rhizomes or stolons like other grasses so it is a less invasive option for the landscape. New seedlings will pop up of their own accord, however, and can be removed or moved to another area of the garden.
Blue Oat Grass Care
Blue oat grass care is minimal, as it is a forgiving and hearty grass. Heavy shade and little air circulation foster foliar disease on blue oat grass but, otherwise, the plant has few problems. It does tend to get rusty looking, especially when it is overly humid and wet, usually if it is in a shaded area. No more than yearly feeding is needed to keep the plants thriving and they should last for years with very little care. Growing blue oat grass can be pruned back in the fall to remove old leaves or at any time they are looking a bit peaked and need some rejuvenation.
Of ornamental oat grass varieties, A. sempervirens is the most common, but another cultivar ‘Sapphire’ or ‘Saphirsprudel’ has an even more pronounced blue hue and is more rust resistant than A. sempervirens.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
For glossy, bright red foliage, you can’t beat the Iresine bloodleaf plant. Unless you live in a frost-free climate, you’ll have to grow this tender perennial as an annual or bring it indoors at the end of the season. It also makes a lovely houseplant.
Iresine Plant Info
Bloodleaf (Iresine herbstii) is also called chicken-gizzard, beefsteak plant, or Formosa bloodleaf. Iresine bloodleaf plants are native to Brazil where they thrive in warm temperatures and bright sunlight. In their native environment, the plants reach heights of up to 5 feet with a spread of 3 feet, but when grown as annuals or potted plants they only grow 12 to 18 inches tall.
The red leaves are often variegated with green and white markings, and add contrast to beds and borders. They occasionally produce small, greenish-white flowers, but they are not ornamental, and most growers simply pinch them off. Here are two exceptional cultivars to watch for: ‘Brilliantissima’ has bright red leaves with pink veins. ‘Aureoreticulata’ has green leaves with yellow veins.
Growing Bloodleaf Plants
Bloodleaf plants enjoy high heat and humidity, and you can grow them outdoors year round in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Plant in a location with full sun or partial shade and organically rich soil that drains freely. Growing bloodleaf in full sun results in better color. Amend the bed with compost or aged manure before planting, unless your soil is exceptionally high in organic matter. Set out the plants in spring after all danger of frost has passed and the soil stays warm both day and night. Keep the soil evenly moist all summer by watering deeply every week in the absence of rain. Use a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch to help prevent the moisture from evaporating. Reduce the moisture in fall and winter if you are growing bloodleaf plants as perennials. Pinch out the growth tips while the plants are young to promote a dense growth habit and attractive shape. You might also consider pinching off flower buds. The flowers aren’t particularly attractive, and supporting flowers depletes energy that would otherwise go toward growing dense foliage. Plants grown in less than ideal conditions rarely flower.
Indoor Care of Bloodleaf Plants
Whether you are growing bloodleaf as a houseplant or bringing it indoors for winter, pot it up in a loamy, soil-based potting mixture. Place the plant near a bright, preferably south-facing window. If it becomes leggy, then it probably isn’t getting enough light. Keep the potting mix moist in spring and summer by watering when the soil feels dry at a depth of about an inch. Add water until it runs from the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. About 20 minutes after watering, empty the saucer under the pot so the roots aren’t left sitting in water. Bloodleaf plants need less water in fall and winter, but you should never allow the soil to dry out.
Iresine Plant Info
Bloodleaf (Iresine herbstii) is also called chicken-gizzard, beefsteak plant, or Formosa bloodleaf. Iresine bloodleaf plants are native to Brazil where they thrive in warm temperatures and bright sunlight. In their native environment, the plants reach heights of up to 5 feet with a spread of 3 feet, but when grown as annuals or potted plants they only grow 12 to 18 inches tall.
The red leaves are often variegated with green and white markings, and add contrast to beds and borders. They occasionally produce small, greenish-white flowers, but they are not ornamental, and most growers simply pinch them off. Here are two exceptional cultivars to watch for: ‘Brilliantissima’ has bright red leaves with pink veins. ‘Aureoreticulata’ has green leaves with yellow veins.
Growing Bloodleaf Plants
Bloodleaf plants enjoy high heat and humidity, and you can grow them outdoors year round in USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Plant in a location with full sun or partial shade and organically rich soil that drains freely. Growing bloodleaf in full sun results in better color. Amend the bed with compost or aged manure before planting, unless your soil is exceptionally high in organic matter. Set out the plants in spring after all danger of frost has passed and the soil stays warm both day and night. Keep the soil evenly moist all summer by watering deeply every week in the absence of rain. Use a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch to help prevent the moisture from evaporating. Reduce the moisture in fall and winter if you are growing bloodleaf plants as perennials. Pinch out the growth tips while the plants are young to promote a dense growth habit and attractive shape. You might also consider pinching off flower buds. The flowers aren’t particularly attractive, and supporting flowers depletes energy that would otherwise go toward growing dense foliage. Plants grown in less than ideal conditions rarely flower.
Indoor Care of Bloodleaf Plants
Whether you are growing bloodleaf as a houseplant or bringing it indoors for winter, pot it up in a loamy, soil-based potting mixture. Place the plant near a bright, preferably south-facing window. If it becomes leggy, then it probably isn’t getting enough light. Keep the potting mix moist in spring and summer by watering when the soil feels dry at a depth of about an inch. Add water until it runs from the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. About 20 minutes after watering, empty the saucer under the pot so the roots aren’t left sitting in water. Bloodleaf plants need less water in fall and winter, but you should never allow the soil to dry out.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
For many of us, the only source of crunchy bamboo shoots is the small cans found in the grocery store. However, you can grow your own nutrient rich source of this versatile food while also adding dimension and drama to your garden. So if you are a bamboo shoot fan, read on for more information on how to grow bamboo
shoots for eating. What are Bamboo Shoots?
Bamboo is in the grass family of plants and grows fairly easily and rapidly in a variety of zones. The canes are a traditional source of food, fiber, building material and medicinal use. What are bamboo shoots? They are simply the newly sprouted canes that form just under the soil and have a firm, crisp texture. Bamboo grows from rhizomes, which are underground stems carrying the genetic material necessary for growth and featuring growth nodes which are sprouting points on the stem. You may have a clumping or running variety of bamboo, but each will still start from rhizomes.
Are Bamboo Shoots Edible?
Are bamboo shoots edible? Bamboo shoots are edible in most varieties and provide a nice crunch in stir fries and other recipes. In many Asian countries, bamboo shoots as vegetables are harvested as a national crop. The shoots are classic ingredients in Chinese and other Asian foods but result from the sprouts of new growth on a mature bamboo plant. Not only are bamboo shoots edible but they are low in fat and calories, easy to grow and harvest, as well as containing loads of fiber and potassium. They have a very mild taste but they accept the flavors of other foods easily and can blend into almost any cuisine. Bamboo shoots need to be peeled before using in cooking, as the culm has a thick, almost woody, exterior that is hard to chew. Inside the peel is a softer texture with a slightly sweet but benign flavor. Culms or shoots are harvested at two weeks or when just about the size of a mature ear of sweet corn. The sprouting season for harvesting bamboo shoots is in spring and lasts only about three to four weeks. The best tasting sprouts are very young and harvested prior to emerging from the soil, but you can mound dirt over any that have surfaced to keep the sprout tender and allow it to grow larger.
How to Grow Bamboo Shoots for Eating
Any gardener with a stand of bamboo can easily harvest and enjoy their own shoots. The tender growths are best when harvested before showing their tips above the soil. Excavate around the base of the main plant to find the shoots and excise them with a sharp knife. You can grow them larger by covering the tips with a heap of soil to prevent the shoot from meeting the light, which will harden the sheath. Harvesting bamboo shoots early provides the highest nutrient density and best texture and flavor. The new shoots have crispness similar to young asparagus but must be peeled and cooked for 20 minutes prior to ingestion to remove the woody exterior and any bitterness in the shoot. Growing bamboo shoots as vegetables will increase the diversity of your family’s diet and add dimension to your recipes.
shoots for eating. What are Bamboo Shoots?
Bamboo is in the grass family of plants and grows fairly easily and rapidly in a variety of zones. The canes are a traditional source of food, fiber, building material and medicinal use. What are bamboo shoots? They are simply the newly sprouted canes that form just under the soil and have a firm, crisp texture. Bamboo grows from rhizomes, which are underground stems carrying the genetic material necessary for growth and featuring growth nodes which are sprouting points on the stem. You may have a clumping or running variety of bamboo, but each will still start from rhizomes.
Are Bamboo Shoots Edible?
Are bamboo shoots edible? Bamboo shoots are edible in most varieties and provide a nice crunch in stir fries and other recipes. In many Asian countries, bamboo shoots as vegetables are harvested as a national crop. The shoots are classic ingredients in Chinese and other Asian foods but result from the sprouts of new growth on a mature bamboo plant. Not only are bamboo shoots edible but they are low in fat and calories, easy to grow and harvest, as well as containing loads of fiber and potassium. They have a very mild taste but they accept the flavors of other foods easily and can blend into almost any cuisine. Bamboo shoots need to be peeled before using in cooking, as the culm has a thick, almost woody, exterior that is hard to chew. Inside the peel is a softer texture with a slightly sweet but benign flavor. Culms or shoots are harvested at two weeks or when just about the size of a mature ear of sweet corn. The sprouting season for harvesting bamboo shoots is in spring and lasts only about three to four weeks. The best tasting sprouts are very young and harvested prior to emerging from the soil, but you can mound dirt over any that have surfaced to keep the sprout tender and allow it to grow larger.
How to Grow Bamboo Shoots for Eating
Any gardener with a stand of bamboo can easily harvest and enjoy their own shoots. The tender growths are best when harvested before showing their tips above the soil. Excavate around the base of the main plant to find the shoots and excise them with a sharp knife. You can grow them larger by covering the tips with a heap of soil to prevent the shoot from meeting the light, which will harden the sheath. Harvesting bamboo shoots early provides the highest nutrient density and best texture and flavor. The new shoots have crispness similar to young asparagus but must be peeled and cooked for 20 minutes prior to ingestion to remove the woody exterior and any bitterness in the shoot. Growing bamboo shoots as vegetables will increase the diversity of your family’s diet and add dimension to your recipes.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Herbs are fun, easy to grow plants, celebrated for their culinary and medicinal uses. One of the lesser known or rather underutilized in some regions, is the southernwood herb plant, also known as southernwood Artemisia. Read on to learn more.
What is Southernwood Artemisia?
Native growing southernwood herb plant can be found in regions of Spain and Italy and has since been naturalized in the United States where it grows wild. This member of Asteraceae is related to European wormwood or absinthe.
Southernwood Artemisia (Artemisia abrotanum) is a woody, perennial herb with gray-green, fern-like leaves that, when crushed, emits a sweet lemony aroma. This gray-green foliage is slightly haired, growing less so as the season progresses. Leaves are small, alternate with yellow-white dioecious flowers that bloom in late summer in southern regions. Artemisia grown in northern areas rarely flowers. Southernwood herb plants grow to a height of between 3 and 5 feet tall with a spread of about 2 feet across. There are over 200 species in the Artemisia genus. Depending upon the variety, the essential oil in the crushed leaves may emit an aroma of lemon, as mentioned, or even camphor or tangerine. With such a dizzying array, southernwood Artemisia has just as many aliases. Southernwood has been referred to as Applering, Boy’s Love, European Sage, Garden Sagebrush, and Lad’s Love due to its reputation as an aphrodisiac. It’s also known as Lover’s Plant, Maid’s Ruin, Our Lord’s Wood, Southern Wormwood and Old Man Wormwood in reference to the plants rather tattered looking winter foliage, which protects it from harsh winds in northern climates. The name ‘Southernwood’ has Old English roots and means “woody plant that comes from the south.” The genus name, Artemisia, is derived from the Greek word “abros,” meaning delicate and stems from Artemis, the Goddess of chastity. Artemis was also known as Diana, the Mother of all Creatures and Goddess of the Herbalist, the Hunt and Wild things.
How to Grow Southernwood Artemisia
Southernwood plant care is similar to that of most herbs hailing from the Mediterranean. These herbs like full to partial sun, well draining soil, and adequate moisture although they are tolerant of drought. Growing southernwood is usually cultivated for its essential oil, which contains absinthol and is used in herbal teas, potpourris or medicinally. The young shoots were used to add flavor to pastries and puddings, while branches were used to dye wool a deep yellow hue. Medicinally, southernwood herb plants were used as an antiseptic, astringent, stimulant and tonic, and have also been used to fight coughs, tumors and cancers. There is some thought that southernwood Artemisia can also be used as an insect repellent. When used in a potpourri or sachet, ancient cultural myth implies that southernwood’s aroma will summon one’s beloved. Maybe it won’t summon your beloved; in any case, southernwood plant is a unique specimen to add to the home gardener’s collection in the herb garden.
What is Southernwood Artemisia?
Native growing southernwood herb plant can be found in regions of Spain and Italy and has since been naturalized in the United States where it grows wild. This member of Asteraceae is related to European wormwood or absinthe.
Southernwood Artemisia (Artemisia abrotanum) is a woody, perennial herb with gray-green, fern-like leaves that, when crushed, emits a sweet lemony aroma. This gray-green foliage is slightly haired, growing less so as the season progresses. Leaves are small, alternate with yellow-white dioecious flowers that bloom in late summer in southern regions. Artemisia grown in northern areas rarely flowers. Southernwood herb plants grow to a height of between 3 and 5 feet tall with a spread of about 2 feet across. There are over 200 species in the Artemisia genus. Depending upon the variety, the essential oil in the crushed leaves may emit an aroma of lemon, as mentioned, or even camphor or tangerine. With such a dizzying array, southernwood Artemisia has just as many aliases. Southernwood has been referred to as Applering, Boy’s Love, European Sage, Garden Sagebrush, and Lad’s Love due to its reputation as an aphrodisiac. It’s also known as Lover’s Plant, Maid’s Ruin, Our Lord’s Wood, Southern Wormwood and Old Man Wormwood in reference to the plants rather tattered looking winter foliage, which protects it from harsh winds in northern climates. The name ‘Southernwood’ has Old English roots and means “woody plant that comes from the south.” The genus name, Artemisia, is derived from the Greek word “abros,” meaning delicate and stems from Artemis, the Goddess of chastity. Artemis was also known as Diana, the Mother of all Creatures and Goddess of the Herbalist, the Hunt and Wild things.
How to Grow Southernwood Artemisia
Southernwood plant care is similar to that of most herbs hailing from the Mediterranean. These herbs like full to partial sun, well draining soil, and adequate moisture although they are tolerant of drought. Growing southernwood is usually cultivated for its essential oil, which contains absinthol and is used in herbal teas, potpourris or medicinally. The young shoots were used to add flavor to pastries and puddings, while branches were used to dye wool a deep yellow hue. Medicinally, southernwood herb plants were used as an antiseptic, astringent, stimulant and tonic, and have also been used to fight coughs, tumors and cancers. There is some thought that southernwood Artemisia can also be used as an insect repellent. When used in a potpourri or sachet, ancient cultural myth implies that southernwood’s aroma will summon one’s beloved. Maybe it won’t summon your beloved; in any case, southernwood plant is a unique specimen to add to the home gardener’s collection in the herb garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Holiday cacti bloom around the season for which they are named. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that the Thanksgiving cactus blooms around November. The Thanksgiving holiday cactus is an easy to grow interior plant. Both Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti are in the genus Schlumbergera and are native to the tropical forests of Brazil. They are attractive plants commonly sold and given as gifts around the holidays but are also easy to propagate from stem cuttings. Read on for Thanksgiving holiday cactus information that will keep you growing and giving away these plants for a lifetime.
Thanksgiving Cactus Information
Schlumbergera truncata is the Thanksgiving cactus. It is called a leaf cactus but is not a true cactus. Rather it is an epiphyte, those plants which live on other plants. The leaves are broad and flat with slight serrations on the edges in the Thanksgiving vs. Christmas cactus, which has smoother edges. The flowers that appear in fall are similar to fuchsia blooms and come in hues of yellow, white, pink and red.
These plants are classed as Zygocactus, which some scholars call a misnomer, while others shout it from the roof tops. Whatever type of plant it is, the Thanksgiving holiday cactus is a proven winner, with blooms that last for 2 to 4 months and an easy-going nature. The only real problem with the plant is its need to be fooled in order to bloom again the next year.
Forcing Thanksgiving cactus to bloom requires cool temperatures and shorter daylight hours. That means if you live in a region with no frost, you can leave the cactus outside to experience just what is naturally occurring. Those of us who live where temperatures get cold will have to create false conditions indoors to protect them from the cold, but can experience cool temps down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) and reduced light, including artificial light. Start forcing Thanksgiving cactus to bloom in late summer to early fall.
Thanksgiving Cactus Plant Care
One of the most crucial aspects of Thanksgiving cactus plant care is water. These tropical plants should not be allowed to dry out; however, excess water at the roots can cause rotting and fungal issues. As an epiphyte, it often has exposed roots and gathers most of its moisture through humidity in the air. Potted plants need well-draining soil and good drainage. Water thoroughly and then allow the top 1/3 of soil dry out before you water again.
Growing Thanksgiving Cactus Cuttings
The plants are easy to propagate and multiply. Snip off a stem with 4 to 5 sections and leaves. Dust the end with fungicide and allow it to callus for a week in a dry location. Fill a small clay pot with vermiculite or perlite mixed with potting soil. Alternatively, you can use damp sand. Push the callused end into the mixture and place the pot in bright but indirect light. Tent over the cutting with a plastic bag and remove it for an hour each day to let in air. In approximately 3 weeks, the cutting will have rooted and you will have a brand new plant. Growing Thanksgiving cactus to blooming stage will take a couple of years.
Thanksgiving Cactus Information
Schlumbergera truncata is the Thanksgiving cactus. It is called a leaf cactus but is not a true cactus. Rather it is an epiphyte, those plants which live on other plants. The leaves are broad and flat with slight serrations on the edges in the Thanksgiving vs. Christmas cactus, which has smoother edges. The flowers that appear in fall are similar to fuchsia blooms and come in hues of yellow, white, pink and red.
These plants are classed as Zygocactus, which some scholars call a misnomer, while others shout it from the roof tops. Whatever type of plant it is, the Thanksgiving holiday cactus is a proven winner, with blooms that last for 2 to 4 months and an easy-going nature. The only real problem with the plant is its need to be fooled in order to bloom again the next year.
Forcing Thanksgiving cactus to bloom requires cool temperatures and shorter daylight hours. That means if you live in a region with no frost, you can leave the cactus outside to experience just what is naturally occurring. Those of us who live where temperatures get cold will have to create false conditions indoors to protect them from the cold, but can experience cool temps down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) and reduced light, including artificial light. Start forcing Thanksgiving cactus to bloom in late summer to early fall.
Thanksgiving Cactus Plant Care
One of the most crucial aspects of Thanksgiving cactus plant care is water. These tropical plants should not be allowed to dry out; however, excess water at the roots can cause rotting and fungal issues. As an epiphyte, it often has exposed roots and gathers most of its moisture through humidity in the air. Potted plants need well-draining soil and good drainage. Water thoroughly and then allow the top 1/3 of soil dry out before you water again.
Growing Thanksgiving Cactus Cuttings
The plants are easy to propagate and multiply. Snip off a stem with 4 to 5 sections and leaves. Dust the end with fungicide and allow it to callus for a week in a dry location. Fill a small clay pot with vermiculite or perlite mixed with potting soil. Alternatively, you can use damp sand. Push the callused end into the mixture and place the pot in bright but indirect light. Tent over the cutting with a plastic bag and remove it for an hour each day to let in air. In approximately 3 weeks, the cutting will have rooted and you will have a brand new plant. Growing Thanksgiving cactus to blooming stage will take a couple of years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
If you’re looking for an easy succulent to grow indoors, opt for the string of beads (Senecio rowleyanus) plant. In addition to its carefree growth habit, this interesting houseplant can provide a unique focal point in the home. Sprawling over the edges of containers or hanging baskets, the string of beads plant resembles a beaded necklace with its fleshy green, pea-like foliage. Learn more about growing string of beads houseplant so you can also enjoy its unique characteristics and ease of care.
What is a String of Beads Houseplant?
Also called rosary string of beads or string of pearls plant, this creeping succulent is an odd looking plant that many people enjoy adding to their indoor gardens. Though the flowers may seem small and unattractive to some people, if they’re even lucky enough to get them, others find the faint white blooms (which smell a bit like cinnamon) quite welcome. Still, it’s the thin thread-like stems and fleshy round, bead-like leaves that make this unusual houseplant a great addition to the home. Learning how to grow a string of pearls houseplant is extremely easy.
How to Grow a String of Pearls Houseplant
The string of pearls plant grows well in bright light, including sunlight. You should provide this string of beads houseplant with average indoor temperatures (around 72 F./22 C.) throughout its active growth. During its dormancy, however, you’ll need to provide cooler conditions, generally somewhere between 50 to 55 F. (10-13 C.). Give this houseplant a well-draining sandy soil, preferably the type most suitable for growing cacti and succulent plants. Pot your plant in a hanging basket so its trailing foliage can hang down.
String of Pearls Care
As with most succulent plants, the string of beads requires little care. However, while there’s little maintenance involved with growing a rosary string of beads plant, you will need to provide it with some care. This succulent plant is drought tolerant, surviving long periods without water. In fact, the plant’s water-storing abilities allow it to be watered thoroughly one week and then pretty much forgotten the next week or two. Watering too often can increase the chances of root rot. So be sure to let the soil dry out at least half an inch or so between waterings. In winter, cut back watering to about once monthly. Occasionally, you may find that pruning becomes necessary as part of your string of pearls care in order to maintain its size or appearance. This is simple to do. Trim off any dead stems and pearls, as well as any stems that have lost a lot of their ‘beads.’ Pruning back will help promote fuller, more compact plants.
Even better than its ease of care is the fact that you can share the plant with others. Whenever pruning is in order, you can take advantage of the plant’s easy propagation. Simply place a cutting or two in a pot of soil and they will easily take root. The string of beads houseplant makes an excellent conversation piece. Your family, friends, and neighbors will love it as much as you will.
What is a String of Beads Houseplant?
Also called rosary string of beads or string of pearls plant, this creeping succulent is an odd looking plant that many people enjoy adding to their indoor gardens. Though the flowers may seem small and unattractive to some people, if they’re even lucky enough to get them, others find the faint white blooms (which smell a bit like cinnamon) quite welcome. Still, it’s the thin thread-like stems and fleshy round, bead-like leaves that make this unusual houseplant a great addition to the home. Learning how to grow a string of pearls houseplant is extremely easy.
How to Grow a String of Pearls Houseplant
The string of pearls plant grows well in bright light, including sunlight. You should provide this string of beads houseplant with average indoor temperatures (around 72 F./22 C.) throughout its active growth. During its dormancy, however, you’ll need to provide cooler conditions, generally somewhere between 50 to 55 F. (10-13 C.). Give this houseplant a well-draining sandy soil, preferably the type most suitable for growing cacti and succulent plants. Pot your plant in a hanging basket so its trailing foliage can hang down.
String of Pearls Care
As with most succulent plants, the string of beads requires little care. However, while there’s little maintenance involved with growing a rosary string of beads plant, you will need to provide it with some care. This succulent plant is drought tolerant, surviving long periods without water. In fact, the plant’s water-storing abilities allow it to be watered thoroughly one week and then pretty much forgotten the next week or two. Watering too often can increase the chances of root rot. So be sure to let the soil dry out at least half an inch or so between waterings. In winter, cut back watering to about once monthly. Occasionally, you may find that pruning becomes necessary as part of your string of pearls care in order to maintain its size or appearance. This is simple to do. Trim off any dead stems and pearls, as well as any stems that have lost a lot of their ‘beads.’ Pruning back will help promote fuller, more compact plants.
Even better than its ease of care is the fact that you can share the plant with others. Whenever pruning is in order, you can take advantage of the plant’s easy propagation. Simply place a cutting or two in a pot of soil and they will easily take root. The string of beads houseplant makes an excellent conversation piece. Your family, friends, and neighbors will love it as much as you will.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Cactus collectors love the little Astrophytum star cactus. It is a spineless cactus with a chubby round body resembling a sand dollar. Star cactus plants are easy to grow and make an interesting part of a succulent or arid garden display. Find out how to grow a star cactus and add this adorable little specimen to your dish garden or succulent pot.
Astrophytum Star Cactus Characteristics
The common names for plants are often the most descriptive and a fun way to learn about the plant. Star cactus plants (Astrophytum asteria) are also known as sea urchin cactus, sand dollar cactus or star peyote — which refers to the flower. They are also very similar in nature to Peyote cactus plants. The round body may grow 2 to 6 inches across with gently ridged sides. It is green to grayish brown and covered in tiny white dots that radiate down the ridges. The body has eight sections which are decorated with fine white hairs. The lucky gardener that provides excellent Astrophytum cactus care will be rewarded in March to May with 3-inch yellow flowers that boast orange centers. These turn into drupes or berries in late spring, which may be gray, pink or reddish and covered in wooly hair.
How to Grow a Star Cactus
The plant has been overly collected in its habitat and the wild population is threatened. Get your star cactus plants from an accredited nursery that grows them from seed. This cactus is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 9 but does perfectly well in a sunny window in the home. If you get your hands on seeds, start them in seed flats with a sandy composite soil mix. Keep the soil moist until germination and then move them to a sunny location with protection from noonday sun. Mist the soil when caring for star cactus babies as overhead watering can damage the tender tissues. They will need to be kept moist until the seedling is robust and at least ½ inch tall.
Astrophytum Cactus Care
Novice gardeners love the ease of cacti care as interior plants. They thrive on neglect, although star cactus plants will need water occasionally. The body will flatten out and turn brown if it is in dire need of water. Pot them up in a purchased cactus mix or equal parts potting soil and sand. The container should be free draining and unglazed so excess moisture evaporates readily. April is the best time to repot, but actually the plants like to be pot bound so this doesn’t need to be done frequently. Fertilize June to September when caring for star cactus. Reduce the amount of water you give in the dormant winter months. Root rots, scab and mealybugs prey on this plant. Watch for signs and treat immediately.
Astrophytum Star Cactus Characteristics
The common names for plants are often the most descriptive and a fun way to learn about the plant. Star cactus plants (Astrophytum asteria) are also known as sea urchin cactus, sand dollar cactus or star peyote — which refers to the flower. They are also very similar in nature to Peyote cactus plants. The round body may grow 2 to 6 inches across with gently ridged sides. It is green to grayish brown and covered in tiny white dots that radiate down the ridges. The body has eight sections which are decorated with fine white hairs. The lucky gardener that provides excellent Astrophytum cactus care will be rewarded in March to May with 3-inch yellow flowers that boast orange centers. These turn into drupes or berries in late spring, which may be gray, pink or reddish and covered in wooly hair.
How to Grow a Star Cactus
The plant has been overly collected in its habitat and the wild population is threatened. Get your star cactus plants from an accredited nursery that grows them from seed. This cactus is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 9 but does perfectly well in a sunny window in the home. If you get your hands on seeds, start them in seed flats with a sandy composite soil mix. Keep the soil moist until germination and then move them to a sunny location with protection from noonday sun. Mist the soil when caring for star cactus babies as overhead watering can damage the tender tissues. They will need to be kept moist until the seedling is robust and at least ½ inch tall.
Astrophytum Cactus Care
Novice gardeners love the ease of cacti care as interior plants. They thrive on neglect, although star cactus plants will need water occasionally. The body will flatten out and turn brown if it is in dire need of water. Pot them up in a purchased cactus mix or equal parts potting soil and sand. The container should be free draining and unglazed so excess moisture evaporates readily. April is the best time to repot, but actually the plants like to be pot bound so this doesn’t need to be done frequently. Fertilize June to September when caring for star cactus. Reduce the amount of water you give in the dormant winter months. Root rots, scab and mealybugs prey on this plant. Watch for signs and treat immediately.
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