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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
If you are looking for a ground cover or rockery plant with contrasting color and unique texture, look no further than partridge feather ground cover. What types of partridge flower info do you need to know to successfully grow partridge feather flowers? Read on to find out.
Partridge Flower Info
Interestingly, partridge feather ground cover (Tanacetum densum) was introduced to the U.S. from Southeastern Turkey in the 1950’s but for some reason no one thought to name the plant ‘turkey feather.’ Regardless, the use of the term ‘feather’ is definitely apt. The leaves of the partridge plant look very much like fuzzy, silvery feathers.
An evergreen, the plant might, and more appropriately, be referred to as a low-growing shrub, albeit a very short one. Leaves are 3 inches long and of a soft, wooly texture delicately notched much like feathers. Forming a mounding habit, this perennial has a woody base and attains a height of between 3-5 inches by 15-24 inches across.
Another lovely thing about growing partridge feather flowers is, well, the flowers. The plant bears eye-catching yellow and white button-like blossoms during late June and into early July. They make for a nice contrast against the silvery foliage and add a little bit of drama to the landscape, especially in a large grouping. They also are excellent attractors of butterflies and make nice cutting flowers.
Partridge Feather Growing Conditions
Before trying your hand at growing partridge feather flowers, you must become familiar with partridge feather growing conditions, which may include full sun to part shade. These sun loving, drought tolerant specimens are perfect for use in the rock garden where the contrast of the silver leaves is striking amidst the greens of other foliage. It also has a habit of crawling over and down stones, and enjoys the great drainage that rock gardens employ. Partridge feather tolerates most soil types and conditions, with the exception of overly wet or humid weather.
It is USDA hardy to zones 4-9. Once the plant is established, it requires very little irrigation, so caring for partridge feather plants couldn’t be easier. Companion plants that work well with partridge flower include:
Winecups
Mexican Hat Coneflower
Coral Canyon Twinspur
Mojave Sage
Johnson’s Blue Geranium
Partridge feather has few to no pests. Some care should be around the leaves, however, since they may irritate the skin of some people. All in all, a striking and easy to care for plant often used in xeriscape gardening, partridge feather flower makes a unique addition to the landscape.
Partridge Flower Info
Interestingly, partridge feather ground cover (Tanacetum densum) was introduced to the U.S. from Southeastern Turkey in the 1950’s but for some reason no one thought to name the plant ‘turkey feather.’ Regardless, the use of the term ‘feather’ is definitely apt. The leaves of the partridge plant look very much like fuzzy, silvery feathers.
An evergreen, the plant might, and more appropriately, be referred to as a low-growing shrub, albeit a very short one. Leaves are 3 inches long and of a soft, wooly texture delicately notched much like feathers. Forming a mounding habit, this perennial has a woody base and attains a height of between 3-5 inches by 15-24 inches across.
Another lovely thing about growing partridge feather flowers is, well, the flowers. The plant bears eye-catching yellow and white button-like blossoms during late June and into early July. They make for a nice contrast against the silvery foliage and add a little bit of drama to the landscape, especially in a large grouping. They also are excellent attractors of butterflies and make nice cutting flowers.
Partridge Feather Growing Conditions
Before trying your hand at growing partridge feather flowers, you must become familiar with partridge feather growing conditions, which may include full sun to part shade. These sun loving, drought tolerant specimens are perfect for use in the rock garden where the contrast of the silver leaves is striking amidst the greens of other foliage. It also has a habit of crawling over and down stones, and enjoys the great drainage that rock gardens employ. Partridge feather tolerates most soil types and conditions, with the exception of overly wet or humid weather.
It is USDA hardy to zones 4-9. Once the plant is established, it requires very little irrigation, so caring for partridge feather plants couldn’t be easier. Companion plants that work well with partridge flower include:
Winecups
Mexican Hat Coneflower
Coral Canyon Twinspur
Mojave Sage
Johnson’s Blue Geranium
Partridge feather has few to no pests. Some care should be around the leaves, however, since they may irritate the skin of some people. All in all, a striking and easy to care for plant often used in xeriscape gardening, partridge feather flower makes a unique addition to the landscape.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Monkey grass (Liriope spicata) is a grass that is quite common in areas that are hilly or uneven because they fill in the area quite nicely. It comes in thick and is quite easy to grow. A lot of people are not sure about what to do about pruning monkey grass or cutting monkey grass. They ask themselves, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” or “may I mow it, or do I need to trim with clippers?” When you worry about how well you take care of your yard or land, you might be worried, but there is nothing to worry about.
What is Monkey Grass?
Monkey grass is a member of the lily family. What makes turfs from the lily family so desirable a landscape material is that they are quite versatile and can handle many different environmental conditions. Monkey grass can handle hot conditions better than a lot of shrubs and ground covers can. They are especially easy to grow and maintain on steep slopes where it is hard to maintain any sort of grass.
Tips for Trimming Back Monkey Grass
If you are wondering when to cut back monkey grass or can you mow monkey grass, you are not alone. A lot of people don’t know what to do with it. Pruning monkey grass or trimming back monkey grass isn’t too complicated. It will start to grow by mid-spring. If you want to know when to cut back monkey grass, you can cut the plants back to 3 inches early spring. Pruning monkey grass helps take out the battered leaves and permits new leaves to come in and flourish. Cutting monkey grass with a lawnmower or trimmer is great for larger areas of the grass, but trimmers work just as well on pruning monkey grass where it is growing in a smaller area.
After trimming back monkey grass, you can fertilize and feed the area. Be sure to include weed control as well. If you have just finished trimming back monkey grass, make sure to mulch the area with straw, bark or compost. This way it will be ready for a new season of growing. If you are wondering, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” you now know you can cut it as if you used a mower, or use a mower for cutting monkey grass so you can get it read for the growing season. This way it will be healthy and fill in nicely.
What is Monkey Grass?
Monkey grass is a member of the lily family. What makes turfs from the lily family so desirable a landscape material is that they are quite versatile and can handle many different environmental conditions. Monkey grass can handle hot conditions better than a lot of shrubs and ground covers can. They are especially easy to grow and maintain on steep slopes where it is hard to maintain any sort of grass.
Tips for Trimming Back Monkey Grass
If you are wondering when to cut back monkey grass or can you mow monkey grass, you are not alone. A lot of people don’t know what to do with it. Pruning monkey grass or trimming back monkey grass isn’t too complicated. It will start to grow by mid-spring. If you want to know when to cut back monkey grass, you can cut the plants back to 3 inches early spring. Pruning monkey grass helps take out the battered leaves and permits new leaves to come in and flourish. Cutting monkey grass with a lawnmower or trimmer is great for larger areas of the grass, but trimmers work just as well on pruning monkey grass where it is growing in a smaller area.
After trimming back monkey grass, you can fertilize and feed the area. Be sure to include weed control as well. If you have just finished trimming back monkey grass, make sure to mulch the area with straw, bark or compost. This way it will be ready for a new season of growing. If you are wondering, “How low should I cut back my monkey grass,” you now know you can cut it as if you used a mower, or use a mower for cutting monkey grass so you can get it read for the growing season. This way it will be healthy and fill in nicely.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Irish moss plants are versatile little plants that can add a touch of elegance to your landscape. Growing Irish moss fills a range of garden needs. It is simple to learn how to grow Irish moss. You’ll find growing Irish moss can put the finishing touch on many areas of the garden and beyond. Keep reading to learn more about the care of Irish moss in your garden.
Irish Moss Growing Zones and Info
A member of the Caryophyllaceae family, Irish moss (Sagina subulata), which is not a moss at all, is also called Corsican pearlwort or Scot’s moss. Irish moss plants perform in a manner similar to moss, however. They do need some light to maintain the most amazing of emerald green colors found in its foliage. This herbaceous perennial (evergreen in warmer zones) turns green as temperatures warm. Charming little white blooms appear sporadically throughout the growing season. For a similar plant with a more yellow tint, try Scotch moss, Sagina subulata Aurea.
Irish moss growing zones include USDA plant hardiness zones 4-10, depending on the variety you choose. Most areas of the United States can use Irish moss plants in some manner. Not a heat loving specimen, use Irish moss plants in a sunny to partially shaded area. In warmer Irish moss growing zones, plant where it is protected from the scorching sun. Irish moss may turn brown during summer’s hottest days, but greens up again as temperatures fall in autumn.
How to Grow Irish Moss
Plant Irish moss in spring, when danger of frost is passed. Space plants 12 inches apart when first planting. Soil should be fertile and have good drainage. Irish moss plants need regular watering, but should not have soggy roots.
Care for Irish moss is simple and includes cutting out browning patches in older mats. Growing Irish moss reaches only 1 to 2 inches in height and when used as a lawn replacement, does not need mowing. If you don’t wish for such a drastic makeover, consider the possibilities of growing Irish moss as a ground cover. Use the grass-like mats to spread around pavers or to edge a rock garden. Growing Irish moss is also attractive in containers. Uses of Irish moss are limited only by your imagination.
Irish Moss Growing Zones and Info
A member of the Caryophyllaceae family, Irish moss (Sagina subulata), which is not a moss at all, is also called Corsican pearlwort or Scot’s moss. Irish moss plants perform in a manner similar to moss, however. They do need some light to maintain the most amazing of emerald green colors found in its foliage. This herbaceous perennial (evergreen in warmer zones) turns green as temperatures warm. Charming little white blooms appear sporadically throughout the growing season. For a similar plant with a more yellow tint, try Scotch moss, Sagina subulata Aurea.
Irish moss growing zones include USDA plant hardiness zones 4-10, depending on the variety you choose. Most areas of the United States can use Irish moss plants in some manner. Not a heat loving specimen, use Irish moss plants in a sunny to partially shaded area. In warmer Irish moss growing zones, plant where it is protected from the scorching sun. Irish moss may turn brown during summer’s hottest days, but greens up again as temperatures fall in autumn.
How to Grow Irish Moss
Plant Irish moss in spring, when danger of frost is passed. Space plants 12 inches apart when first planting. Soil should be fertile and have good drainage. Irish moss plants need regular watering, but should not have soggy roots.
Care for Irish moss is simple and includes cutting out browning patches in older mats. Growing Irish moss reaches only 1 to 2 inches in height and when used as a lawn replacement, does not need mowing. If you don’t wish for such a drastic makeover, consider the possibilities of growing Irish moss as a ground cover. Use the grass-like mats to spread around pavers or to edge a rock garden. Growing Irish moss is also attractive in containers. Uses of Irish moss are limited only by your imagination.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Growing native plants is an excellent way to preserve national flora and have the added bonus of thriving easily since the soils and conditions are designed for their success. There are few plants designed to grow well in almost any climate, both for their beauty and as fodder for cattle, pigs, and many species of butterfly. Frog fruit is one of them.
What is Frog Fruit?
I love plants with odd names. Frog fruit (Lippia nodiflora syn. Phyla nodiflora) is also called turkey tangle frog fruit. What is frog fruit? It is a native plant of North America and in the Verbena family of flowering herbaceous plants.
Frog fruit plants are low growing plants that develop only about 3 to 5 inches in height. They are found wild in the southern half of the United States through tropical regions. The plants produce a unique flower from May until October that matures to white blooms with five petals on 4-inch long spikes. Plants spread to nearly 3 feet and form a dense mat of semi-woody stems. Leaves are attractive with small notched indents along the edges.
The plant prefers dry soil and will die back when freezing temperatures occur, with total death after an extended freeze. In the wild, they are found in inhospitable locations such as ditches, beaches and fields. So can you grow frog fruit natives as part of a landscaped garden?
Can You Grow Frog Fruit in the Garden?
Frog fruit plants grow as evergreen perennials in warm to temperate zones and add a wild touch as ground covers and bedding borders. As an addition to the home garden, they make excellent low maintenance ground cover or brighten up hanging baskets as trailing plants. Frog fruit grows fairly quickly from seed directly sown after soil has warmed or from cuttings. In fact, the plant is so prolific at self-seeding that you may end up with an invasive tangle on your hands. Although evergreen in most native regions, it will lose leaves in temperate climates when cold temperatures arrive in fall. In most cases, it will re-sprout in spring, provided the root zone wasn’t exposed to serious freezing temperatures. Growing frog fruit as part of the native woodland garden provides food for deer and can be a good sacrificial plant if the animals are nuisances for other parts of the garden.
Frog Fruit Plant Care
Frog fruit plants are such hardy specimens that they really need little assistance to thrive. Trim back stems if they get into areas where they are not wanted. Since they prosper on almost any soil, the plants need little supplemental fertilizer. If you want increased blooms, use a liquid bloom food in spring. Water is an important part of frog fruit plant care. While they like dry soil and need good drainage, they will need additional moisture during the hottest months of summer for best growth. The plant’s ease of care and spring and summer beauty make growing frog fruit a winner for the garden and landscape.
What is Frog Fruit?
I love plants with odd names. Frog fruit (Lippia nodiflora syn. Phyla nodiflora) is also called turkey tangle frog fruit. What is frog fruit? It is a native plant of North America and in the Verbena family of flowering herbaceous plants.
Frog fruit plants are low growing plants that develop only about 3 to 5 inches in height. They are found wild in the southern half of the United States through tropical regions. The plants produce a unique flower from May until October that matures to white blooms with five petals on 4-inch long spikes. Plants spread to nearly 3 feet and form a dense mat of semi-woody stems. Leaves are attractive with small notched indents along the edges.
The plant prefers dry soil and will die back when freezing temperatures occur, with total death after an extended freeze. In the wild, they are found in inhospitable locations such as ditches, beaches and fields. So can you grow frog fruit natives as part of a landscaped garden?
Can You Grow Frog Fruit in the Garden?
Frog fruit plants grow as evergreen perennials in warm to temperate zones and add a wild touch as ground covers and bedding borders. As an addition to the home garden, they make excellent low maintenance ground cover or brighten up hanging baskets as trailing plants. Frog fruit grows fairly quickly from seed directly sown after soil has warmed or from cuttings. In fact, the plant is so prolific at self-seeding that you may end up with an invasive tangle on your hands. Although evergreen in most native regions, it will lose leaves in temperate climates when cold temperatures arrive in fall. In most cases, it will re-sprout in spring, provided the root zone wasn’t exposed to serious freezing temperatures. Growing frog fruit as part of the native woodland garden provides food for deer and can be a good sacrificial plant if the animals are nuisances for other parts of the garden.
Frog Fruit Plant Care
Frog fruit plants are such hardy specimens that they really need little assistance to thrive. Trim back stems if they get into areas where they are not wanted. Since they prosper on almost any soil, the plants need little supplemental fertilizer. If you want increased blooms, use a liquid bloom food in spring. Water is an important part of frog fruit plant care. While they like dry soil and need good drainage, they will need additional moisture during the hottest months of summer for best growth. The plant’s ease of care and spring and summer beauty make growing frog fruit a winner for the garden and landscape.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Creeping jenny plant, also known as moneywort or Lysimachia, is an evergreen perennial plant belonging to the Primulaceae family. For those looking for information on how to grow creeping jenny, this low-growing plant thrives in USDA zones 2 to 10. Creeping jenny is a ground cover that works well in rock gardens, between stepping stones, around ponds, in container plantings or for covering hard to grow areas in the landscape.
How to Grow Creeping Jenny
Growing creeping jenny is relatively easy. Before planting creeping jenny, check with your local extension office to be sure that it is not restricted in your area due to its invasive nature.
Creeping jenny is a hardy plant that will thrive in full sun or shade. Purchase plants from nurseries in the spring and choose a site, in the shade or sun that drains well. Space these plants 2 feet apart, as they grow rapidly to fill in empty areas. Do not plant creeping jenny unless you are prepared to deal with its rapidly spreading habit.
Care of Creeping Jenny Ground Cover
Once established, creeping jenny plant requires very little up keep. Most gardeners prune this fast-growing plant to keep its horizontal growth under control. You can also divide the plant for better air circulation or to control spreading in early spring. Creeping jenny requires regular water and does well with a little organic fertilizer when first planted. Apply mulch or organic compost around plants to help with moisture retention.
What Is the Difference Between Creeping Charlie and Creeping Jenny?
Sometimes when people are growing creeping jenny plant, they mistakenly think it’s the same thing as creeping charlie. Although they are similar in many ways, creeping charlie is a low-growing weed that often invades lawns and gardens, while creeping jenny is a ground cover plant that is, more often than not, a welcome addition to the garden or landscape.
Creeping charlie has four-sided stems that grow up to 30 inches. The roots of this invasive weed form nodes where the leaves join the stem. Creeping charlie also produces lavender flowers on 2-inch spikes. Most varieties of creeping jenny, on the other hand, reach a mature height of 15 inches with yellow-green, coin-like foliage that turns bronze in the winter and has inconspicuous flowers that bloom in early summer.
How to Grow Creeping Jenny
Growing creeping jenny is relatively easy. Before planting creeping jenny, check with your local extension office to be sure that it is not restricted in your area due to its invasive nature.
Creeping jenny is a hardy plant that will thrive in full sun or shade. Purchase plants from nurseries in the spring and choose a site, in the shade or sun that drains well. Space these plants 2 feet apart, as they grow rapidly to fill in empty areas. Do not plant creeping jenny unless you are prepared to deal with its rapidly spreading habit.
Care of Creeping Jenny Ground Cover
Once established, creeping jenny plant requires very little up keep. Most gardeners prune this fast-growing plant to keep its horizontal growth under control. You can also divide the plant for better air circulation or to control spreading in early spring. Creeping jenny requires regular water and does well with a little organic fertilizer when first planted. Apply mulch or organic compost around plants to help with moisture retention.
What Is the Difference Between Creeping Charlie and Creeping Jenny?
Sometimes when people are growing creeping jenny plant, they mistakenly think it’s the same thing as creeping charlie. Although they are similar in many ways, creeping charlie is a low-growing weed that often invades lawns and gardens, while creeping jenny is a ground cover plant that is, more often than not, a welcome addition to the garden or landscape.
Creeping charlie has four-sided stems that grow up to 30 inches. The roots of this invasive weed form nodes where the leaves join the stem. Creeping charlie also produces lavender flowers on 2-inch spikes. Most varieties of creeping jenny, on the other hand, reach a mature height of 15 inches with yellow-green, coin-like foliage that turns bronze in the winter and has inconspicuous flowers that bloom in early summer.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Creeping jenny, also called moneywort, is a long, crawling plant that can spread very tenaciously. It is often mistaken for creeping charlie. Only reaching about 2 inches in height, this plant can grow to 2 feet long and has an unusually extensive root system. Once it’s established, it can be hard to get rid of and will crowd out or strangle plants that get in its path. Because of this, unless you specifically want it as groundcover in a spot where nothing else grows, you should work on controlling creeping jenny as soon as you spot it. Keep reading to learn more about how to get rid of creeping jenny in the garden.
Best Way to Manage Creeping Jenny
Creeping jenny control is not always easy, and it’s not always quick. If the plant is established in your yard, it may take two growing seasons to eradicate it. The best method of creeping jenny control is a combination of physically removing the plant and applying herbicides. Dig up every new plant you find and spray an herbicide, such as Roundup or Rodeo. New plants will emerge every few weeks – so keep pulling them up and spraying. Creeping jenny’s roots are very extensive and deep, so it will keep sprouting for quite some time. If you can, dig up plants before they flower, as failing to do so will result in lots of seeds and even more vigorous spread.
Another method of controlling creeping jenny is starving it of light. After digging up all visible plants, lay down a thick layer of mulch or black plastic. With any luck, this will keep the roots from putting up new shoots and eventually kill them. You might be able to achieve the same effect by filling the area with hardy plants well suited to the climate, like native grasses. These should put up more of a fight against the creeping jenny and help to block it from receiving light.
Best Way to Manage Creeping Jenny
Creeping jenny control is not always easy, and it’s not always quick. If the plant is established in your yard, it may take two growing seasons to eradicate it. The best method of creeping jenny control is a combination of physically removing the plant and applying herbicides. Dig up every new plant you find and spray an herbicide, such as Roundup or Rodeo. New plants will emerge every few weeks – so keep pulling them up and spraying. Creeping jenny’s roots are very extensive and deep, so it will keep sprouting for quite some time. If you can, dig up plants before they flower, as failing to do so will result in lots of seeds and even more vigorous spread.
Another method of controlling creeping jenny is starving it of light. After digging up all visible plants, lay down a thick layer of mulch or black plastic. With any luck, this will keep the roots from putting up new shoots and eventually kill them. You might be able to achieve the same effect by filling the area with hardy plants well suited to the climate, like native grasses. These should put up more of a fight against the creeping jenny and help to block it from receiving light.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
While they are most commonly found growing in moist, wooded areas, sword ferns are quickly becoming popular in the home garden as well. These interesting plants are easy to grow with sword fern care being just as simple.
All About Sword Ferns
The sword fern (Polystichum munitum) plant is a lush evergreen ground cover known for its bright green, sword-shaped fronds. You’ll find the young fronds, or fiddleheads, appearing in early spring from their underground rhizomes with most plants eventually reaching 4 to 6 feet long. In addition to spreading through rhizomes, sword ferns will also reproduce via spores that are found along the backside of the fronds. These spores appear as brown spots, which are clustered together in groups.
How to Grow Sword Ferns
Learning how to grow sword ferns will be easier if you know how you want to use them in the landscape. Although most people prefer to grow them for ornamental purposes, they have other uses too. For instance, sword ferns make excellent ground cover plants. When planted on hillsides, they can be useful in preventing erosion. They work well with other perennial plantings as well, especially when used as understory plants. Sword ferns perform best in moist shady conditions. However, as long as there is good drainage, the sword fern can easily adapt to a number of soil conditions. They can even thrive in sun when given plenty of moisture.
Sword ferns transplant easily in the garden. And while some people may be lucky enough to have these plants growing naturally on their property already, there are various cultivars available through nurseries. Planting takes place in spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. The hole should be about twice as large as the root ball and it often helps to mix in some compost and other organic matter as well.
Sword Fern Care
Once established in the garden, caring for sword ferns is easy. They are drought resistant and usually don’t require much in the way of water, except during the first year after planting when they should be kept evenly moist. Sword fern plants will keep their foliage throughout winter and can be trimmed back in spring, if desired, though it’s usually better to only cut off dead foliage. Plants can also be divided in spring and transplanted to other areas of the garden.
In addition to their graceful appearance, ease of planting and caring for sword ferns makes them great choices for the landscape. So for those looking to add interest and texture to the garden or fill in open areas, the sword fern plant may be just what the plant doctor ordered.
All About Sword Ferns
The sword fern (Polystichum munitum) plant is a lush evergreen ground cover known for its bright green, sword-shaped fronds. You’ll find the young fronds, or fiddleheads, appearing in early spring from their underground rhizomes with most plants eventually reaching 4 to 6 feet long. In addition to spreading through rhizomes, sword ferns will also reproduce via spores that are found along the backside of the fronds. These spores appear as brown spots, which are clustered together in groups.
How to Grow Sword Ferns
Learning how to grow sword ferns will be easier if you know how you want to use them in the landscape. Although most people prefer to grow them for ornamental purposes, they have other uses too. For instance, sword ferns make excellent ground cover plants. When planted on hillsides, they can be useful in preventing erosion. They work well with other perennial plantings as well, especially when used as understory plants. Sword ferns perform best in moist shady conditions. However, as long as there is good drainage, the sword fern can easily adapt to a number of soil conditions. They can even thrive in sun when given plenty of moisture.
Sword ferns transplant easily in the garden. And while some people may be lucky enough to have these plants growing naturally on their property already, there are various cultivars available through nurseries. Planting takes place in spring, as soon as the ground can be worked. The hole should be about twice as large as the root ball and it often helps to mix in some compost and other organic matter as well.
Sword Fern Care
Once established in the garden, caring for sword ferns is easy. They are drought resistant and usually don’t require much in the way of water, except during the first year after planting when they should be kept evenly moist. Sword fern plants will keep their foliage throughout winter and can be trimmed back in spring, if desired, though it’s usually better to only cut off dead foliage. Plants can also be divided in spring and transplanted to other areas of the garden.
In addition to their graceful appearance, ease of planting and caring for sword ferns makes them great choices for the landscape. So for those looking to add interest and texture to the garden or fill in open areas, the sword fern plant may be just what the plant doctor ordered.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
There are over 100 species of sedge plants. What is sedge? These grass-like plants are drought tolerant, easy to grow and practically maintenance free. There are many types of sedge to choose from, but native sedge plants offer the opportunity to replenish and renew natural landscapes while giving the gardener a hardy plant made for the region. Whichever species you opt for, growing sedge plants in the garden brings texture and movement to any area of the landscape.
What is Sedge?
At first glance, one might assume sedges are grasses. They are not and are held in the genus Carex. Sedges span both native varieties and hybridized versions. They are useful in moist areas, such as around ponds, but there are also types of sedge that thrive in dry regions. Both ornamental and native sedge plants produce tiny seeds which feed some bird species, and many animals use the foliage to line and create nests. Sedge plants have the characteristic strappy leaves similar to many grasses, and just like grass, they reproduce from seed and rhizomes. Sedge crowds out other invasive species and comes in many hues and heights. It is an evergreen plant that does much of its growing in the cooler seasons and may go dormant in hot temperatures.
Growing Sedge Plants
Most nurseries have some varieties of sedge on hand. If you are looking for a particular species, you may need to order seed or starts. Seeded plants will take a couple of seasons to get to useable size but they grow as easily as grass seed. It is best to source native varieties through a grower, as some of these plants are endangered and harvesting from the wild is prohibited. The majority of sedge types grow in either sun or shade. Cool zones should plant in sun while warmer locations will find better production if the plants are situated in slightly shady parts of the garden. Additionally, some varieties are xeric or require dry locations, while others are hydric and need to be constantly moist. Sedges that are mesic have the broadest tolerance of both dry and moist conditions.
Growing sedge plants in mesic soil sets the odds for you on big beautiful plants in almost any region. Some types to try are:
Texas
Meadow
Lawn
Creek
Stream
Cherokee
Emory
Franks
Malibu
Fraser’s
Pennsylvania
Bunny Blue
Sedge Plant Care
Sedge plant care is minimal. They rarely need fertilizer, the plants can be easily moved and they grow rapidly and can even be used as a turf. Sedge plants take to occasional mowing in lawn situations and have the advantage of requiring little further attention, unlike traditional turf grass, which needs plenty of added nitrogen and may get weedy. When fertilizing, feed the plant in early summer with a light nitrogen plant food. Irrigate plants in the sun at least 3 times during the month. For those plants in shadier areas, irrigate just once per month unless your region is in acute drought, in which case water 2 times per month. Suspend watering in fall and winter.
If you wish, cut back sedges after they have bloomed to preserve a more tidy appearance. You can mow the plants but use a sharp blade and mow no lower than 2/3 the plant’s height. If the plant starts to die out in the center, divide the sedge between spring and early summer to make even more plants. If you don’t want the plant to seed, cut off the seed heads in early spring.
What is Sedge?
At first glance, one might assume sedges are grasses. They are not and are held in the genus Carex. Sedges span both native varieties and hybridized versions. They are useful in moist areas, such as around ponds, but there are also types of sedge that thrive in dry regions. Both ornamental and native sedge plants produce tiny seeds which feed some bird species, and many animals use the foliage to line and create nests. Sedge plants have the characteristic strappy leaves similar to many grasses, and just like grass, they reproduce from seed and rhizomes. Sedge crowds out other invasive species and comes in many hues and heights. It is an evergreen plant that does much of its growing in the cooler seasons and may go dormant in hot temperatures.
Growing Sedge Plants
Most nurseries have some varieties of sedge on hand. If you are looking for a particular species, you may need to order seed or starts. Seeded plants will take a couple of seasons to get to useable size but they grow as easily as grass seed. It is best to source native varieties through a grower, as some of these plants are endangered and harvesting from the wild is prohibited. The majority of sedge types grow in either sun or shade. Cool zones should plant in sun while warmer locations will find better production if the plants are situated in slightly shady parts of the garden. Additionally, some varieties are xeric or require dry locations, while others are hydric and need to be constantly moist. Sedges that are mesic have the broadest tolerance of both dry and moist conditions.
Growing sedge plants in mesic soil sets the odds for you on big beautiful plants in almost any region. Some types to try are:
Texas
Meadow
Lawn
Creek
Stream
Cherokee
Emory
Franks
Malibu
Fraser’s
Pennsylvania
Bunny Blue
Sedge Plant Care
Sedge plant care is minimal. They rarely need fertilizer, the plants can be easily moved and they grow rapidly and can even be used as a turf. Sedge plants take to occasional mowing in lawn situations and have the advantage of requiring little further attention, unlike traditional turf grass, which needs plenty of added nitrogen and may get weedy. When fertilizing, feed the plant in early summer with a light nitrogen plant food. Irrigate plants in the sun at least 3 times during the month. For those plants in shadier areas, irrigate just once per month unless your region is in acute drought, in which case water 2 times per month. Suspend watering in fall and winter.
If you wish, cut back sedges after they have bloomed to preserve a more tidy appearance. You can mow the plants but use a sharp blade and mow no lower than 2/3 the plant’s height. If the plant starts to die out in the center, divide the sedge between spring and early summer to make even more plants. If you don’t want the plant to seed, cut off the seed heads in early spring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Looking for an ornamental grass that offers unique interest? Why not consider growing rattlesnake grass, also known as quaking grass. Read on to learn how to grow rattlesnake grass and take advantage of this fun plant.
Quaking Grass Information
What is rattlesnake grass? Native to the Mediterranean, this ornamental quaking grass (Briza maxima) consists of neat clumps that reach mature heights of 12 to 18 inches. Tiny blooms shaped like rattlesnake rattles dangle from slender, graceful stems rising above the grass, providing color and movement as they shimmer and rattle in the breeze — and gives rise to its common names. Also known as rattlesnake quaking grass, this plant is available both in perennial and annual varieties. Rattlesnake quaking grass is readily found in most garden centers and nurseries, or you can propagate the plant by scattering seeds on prepared soil. Once established, the plant self-seeds readily.
How to Grow Rattlesnake Grass
Although this hardy plant tolerates partial shade, it performs best and produces more blooms in full sunlight. Rattlesnake grass needs rich, moist soil. Dig 2 to 4 inches of mulch or compost into the planting area if the soil is poor or doesn’t drain well. Water regularly while new roots grow during the first year. Water deeply to saturate the roots, and then let the top 1 to 2 inches of soil dry before watering again. Once established, rattlesnake grass is drought tolerant and needs water only during hot, dry weather.
Rattlesnake quaking grass generally doesn’t require fertilizer and too much creates a floppy, weak plant. If you think your plant needs fertilizer, apply a dry general-purpose, slow-release fertilizer at planting time and as soon as new growth appears every spring. Use no more than one-fourth to one-half cup per plant. Be sure to water after applying fertilizer. To keep the plant neat and healthy, cut the grass down to a height of 3 to 4 inches before new growth emerges in spring. Don’t cut the plant down in autumn; the clumps of dry grass add texture and interest to the winter garden and protect the roots during the winter.
Dig and divide rattlesnake grass in spring if the clump looks overgrown or if the grass dies down in the center. Discard the unproductive center and plant the divisions in a new location, or give them to plant-loving friends.
Quaking Grass Information
What is rattlesnake grass? Native to the Mediterranean, this ornamental quaking grass (Briza maxima) consists of neat clumps that reach mature heights of 12 to 18 inches. Tiny blooms shaped like rattlesnake rattles dangle from slender, graceful stems rising above the grass, providing color and movement as they shimmer and rattle in the breeze — and gives rise to its common names. Also known as rattlesnake quaking grass, this plant is available both in perennial and annual varieties. Rattlesnake quaking grass is readily found in most garden centers and nurseries, or you can propagate the plant by scattering seeds on prepared soil. Once established, the plant self-seeds readily.
How to Grow Rattlesnake Grass
Although this hardy plant tolerates partial shade, it performs best and produces more blooms in full sunlight. Rattlesnake grass needs rich, moist soil. Dig 2 to 4 inches of mulch or compost into the planting area if the soil is poor or doesn’t drain well. Water regularly while new roots grow during the first year. Water deeply to saturate the roots, and then let the top 1 to 2 inches of soil dry before watering again. Once established, rattlesnake grass is drought tolerant and needs water only during hot, dry weather.
Rattlesnake quaking grass generally doesn’t require fertilizer and too much creates a floppy, weak plant. If you think your plant needs fertilizer, apply a dry general-purpose, slow-release fertilizer at planting time and as soon as new growth appears every spring. Use no more than one-fourth to one-half cup per plant. Be sure to water after applying fertilizer. To keep the plant neat and healthy, cut the grass down to a height of 3 to 4 inches before new growth emerges in spring. Don’t cut the plant down in autumn; the clumps of dry grass add texture and interest to the winter garden and protect the roots during the winter.
Dig and divide rattlesnake grass in spring if the clump looks overgrown or if the grass dies down in the center. Discard the unproductive center and plant the divisions in a new location, or give them to plant-loving friends.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Fountain grass is a spectacular ornamental specimen that provides movement and color to the landscape. It is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zone 8, but as a warm season grass, it will only grow as an annual in cooler areas. Fountain grass plants are perennial in the warmer climates but to save them in cooler areas try taking care of fountain grass indoors. Learn how to winter over fountain grass in containers. This will allow you to enjoy the playful foliage for years to come.
Fountain Grass Plants
This ornamental has astounding inflorescences that look like purple squirrel tales. The foliage is a wide grassy blade with a swath of deep purplish-red along the edges. Fountain grass plants may get two to five feet tall, in a clumping habit. The arching leaves that radiate from the center of the plant give it its name. Mature fountain grass plants may get up to four feet wide. This is a really versatile plant that tolerates full sun to partial shade, walnut proximity, and moist to slightly dry soils. Most zones can only grow this plant as an annual, but bringing purple fountain grass inside can save it for another season.
How to Winter Over Fountain Grass in Containers
The relatively wide and shallow roots of the grass are no match for freezing temperatures. Plants in cold zones should be dug up. You can put purple fountain grass in containers and bring them indoors where it’s warm. Dig out several inches wider than the farthest reach of the foliage. Gently excavate until you find the edge of the root mass. Dig down and pop out the whole plant. Place it in a pot with good drainage holes in a quality potting soil. The pot should be slightly wider than the root base. Press the soil in firmly and water well.
Taking care of fountain grass indoors is not difficult, but you need to be careful not to overwater the plant. Keep it moist, (but not wet) because it can die very easily from drying out. Clip the foliage down to about 3 inches from the top of the pot and stick it in a sunny window in a cool room. It will revert to green coloration and won’t look like much for the winter, but when it goes back outside in the spring, it should come back.
Bringing Purple Fountain Grass Inside
Put purple fountain grass in containers in late summer to early fall, so you are prepared to bring them inside when freezes threaten. You can bring fountain grass plants inside and save them in the basement, garage, or other semi-cool area. As long as there are no freezing temperatures and moderate light, the plant will survive winter. Gradually acclimate the plant to warmer conditions and higher light during spring by putting the pot outside for longer and longer periods over a week’s time. You can also divide the roots and plant each section to start new plants.
Fountain Grass Plants
This ornamental has astounding inflorescences that look like purple squirrel tales. The foliage is a wide grassy blade with a swath of deep purplish-red along the edges. Fountain grass plants may get two to five feet tall, in a clumping habit. The arching leaves that radiate from the center of the plant give it its name. Mature fountain grass plants may get up to four feet wide. This is a really versatile plant that tolerates full sun to partial shade, walnut proximity, and moist to slightly dry soils. Most zones can only grow this plant as an annual, but bringing purple fountain grass inside can save it for another season.
How to Winter Over Fountain Grass in Containers
The relatively wide and shallow roots of the grass are no match for freezing temperatures. Plants in cold zones should be dug up. You can put purple fountain grass in containers and bring them indoors where it’s warm. Dig out several inches wider than the farthest reach of the foliage. Gently excavate until you find the edge of the root mass. Dig down and pop out the whole plant. Place it in a pot with good drainage holes in a quality potting soil. The pot should be slightly wider than the root base. Press the soil in firmly and water well.
Taking care of fountain grass indoors is not difficult, but you need to be careful not to overwater the plant. Keep it moist, (but not wet) because it can die very easily from drying out. Clip the foliage down to about 3 inches from the top of the pot and stick it in a sunny window in a cool room. It will revert to green coloration and won’t look like much for the winter, but when it goes back outside in the spring, it should come back.
Bringing Purple Fountain Grass Inside
Put purple fountain grass in containers in late summer to early fall, so you are prepared to bring them inside when freezes threaten. You can bring fountain grass plants inside and save them in the basement, garage, or other semi-cool area. As long as there are no freezing temperatures and moderate light, the plant will survive winter. Gradually acclimate the plant to warmer conditions and higher light during spring by putting the pot outside for longer and longer periods over a week’s time. You can also divide the roots and plant each section to start new plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Pampas grass is a popular landscape plant that is commonly seen in the home garden. Many homeowners use it to mark property lines, hide ugly fences or even as a windbreak. Pampas grass can grow quite large, over 6-feet with a 3-foot spread. Due to its size and numerous seeds, some people find pampas grass control a concern plus it is considered invasive in some areas. Thus, learning what kills pampas grass is important. Continue reading to learn how to remove pampas grass.
About Pampas Grass Plants
Pampas grass plants, native to Chile, Argentina and Brazil, are perennial grasses that grow immensely large with saw-toothed leaves and large pink or white, showy plumes. Although many home gardeners plant pampas grass for its elegant appearance and hardy nature, it can become a problem in some areas. The grass is not picky about soil or sunlight but does best in some sun and loamy soil. Pampas grass seeds freely and can eventually crowd out native plants. It can also create a fire hazard in some areas and interfere with grazing land. This is especially true in California, Africa and New Zealand where pampas grass is clearly recognized as an invasive plant. Each plant can contain up to 100,000 seeds per flower head that are quickly dispersed in the wind. Cutting the grass down in the early spring encourages new growth the following season and can sometimes alleviate issues with seeds. Caution must be taken when working with pampas grass, however, as the leaves are exceedingly sharp and can cause razor-like cuts.
How Can I Get Rid of Pampas Grass?
Some people try to remove pampas grass manually only to find that it has a massive root system. Digging the grass up is not an entirely full proof way to rid your landscape of the grass. The best possible pampas grass control involves a combination of physical and chemical methods. Because it is a grass, it is best to first cut it as close to the ground as possible. Once the grass is cut down, you can apply an herbicide such as Roundup. Several treatments may be necessary for established plants. For more information on what kills pampas grass, check with your local Cooperative Extension Office for advice.
About Pampas Grass Plants
Pampas grass plants, native to Chile, Argentina and Brazil, are perennial grasses that grow immensely large with saw-toothed leaves and large pink or white, showy plumes. Although many home gardeners plant pampas grass for its elegant appearance and hardy nature, it can become a problem in some areas. The grass is not picky about soil or sunlight but does best in some sun and loamy soil. Pampas grass seeds freely and can eventually crowd out native plants. It can also create a fire hazard in some areas and interfere with grazing land. This is especially true in California, Africa and New Zealand where pampas grass is clearly recognized as an invasive plant. Each plant can contain up to 100,000 seeds per flower head that are quickly dispersed in the wind. Cutting the grass down in the early spring encourages new growth the following season and can sometimes alleviate issues with seeds. Caution must be taken when working with pampas grass, however, as the leaves are exceedingly sharp and can cause razor-like cuts.
How Can I Get Rid of Pampas Grass?
Some people try to remove pampas grass manually only to find that it has a massive root system. Digging the grass up is not an entirely full proof way to rid your landscape of the grass. The best possible pampas grass control involves a combination of physical and chemical methods. Because it is a grass, it is best to first cut it as close to the ground as possible. Once the grass is cut down, you can apply an herbicide such as Roundup. Several treatments may be necessary for established plants. For more information on what kills pampas grass, check with your local Cooperative Extension Office for advice.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月29日
Muhlbergia is a variety of ornamental grass with spectacular showgirl flair. The common name is muhly grass and it is extremely hardy and easy to grow. What is muhly grass? Read on for muhly grass care and to learn how to grow ornamental muhly grass. The appeal the plant will give to your garden is well worth the effort.
What is Muhly Grass?
Muhly grass grows in clumps that are 3 to 4 feet tall. It is native to Florida and the eastern half of the United States. The grass is known for its pink to purple inflorescences which float above the body of the plant in an airy display worthy of a fairy princess. The show of color gives it the name pink muhly grass. There is also a white flowering variety. The plant has long sharp-edged foliage blades and can reach 3 feet in width. Known for its extreme drought tolerance, growing muhly grass is easy and requires little maintenance or upkeep.
How to Grow Ornamental Muhly Grass
Plant your pink muhly grass in any type of soil, so long as it drains well. Muhlbergia does not like wet feet. It is naturally found along highways, in flat forests and along coastal dunes, so it is important to match the natural growing range of the plant. Plant several together but spaced at least 2 feet apart for an eye popping effect. The lighting should be as bright and sunny as you can find in your garden. With the exception of light trimming if you wish, this grass thrives on cruel neglect. It tolerates rocky soil where there is little organic matter and merciless sun and dryness. It can even tolerate flooding for short periods.
Care of Pink Muhly Grass
Water frequently when growing muhly grass babies, but once the grass is mature, you only need to give supplemental water when periods of drought are severe. You can feed the plants in spring with a diluted by half balanced plant food and water when the soil is dry in the top couple of inches. Other than that, there isn’t a lot to do for this beautiful grass. The grass is semi-evergreen but you may want to cut it back in early spring to remove any brown blades and make way for new green growth.
One other aspect of muhly grass care is division. You can divide the plants every three years to keep them in an upright habit and producing plenty of inflorescences. Simply dig up the plant in late fall to early spring. Cut apart the root ball into at least two pieces, being careful to include healthy roots and lots of green grass blades on each section. Replant the pieces in the ground or pots, and water frequently for the first couple of weeks as the grasses grow. Care of pink muhly grass divisions is the same as older more established plants.
What is Muhly Grass?
Muhly grass grows in clumps that are 3 to 4 feet tall. It is native to Florida and the eastern half of the United States. The grass is known for its pink to purple inflorescences which float above the body of the plant in an airy display worthy of a fairy princess. The show of color gives it the name pink muhly grass. There is also a white flowering variety. The plant has long sharp-edged foliage blades and can reach 3 feet in width. Known for its extreme drought tolerance, growing muhly grass is easy and requires little maintenance or upkeep.
How to Grow Ornamental Muhly Grass
Plant your pink muhly grass in any type of soil, so long as it drains well. Muhlbergia does not like wet feet. It is naturally found along highways, in flat forests and along coastal dunes, so it is important to match the natural growing range of the plant. Plant several together but spaced at least 2 feet apart for an eye popping effect. The lighting should be as bright and sunny as you can find in your garden. With the exception of light trimming if you wish, this grass thrives on cruel neglect. It tolerates rocky soil where there is little organic matter and merciless sun and dryness. It can even tolerate flooding for short periods.
Care of Pink Muhly Grass
Water frequently when growing muhly grass babies, but once the grass is mature, you only need to give supplemental water when periods of drought are severe. You can feed the plants in spring with a diluted by half balanced plant food and water when the soil is dry in the top couple of inches. Other than that, there isn’t a lot to do for this beautiful grass. The grass is semi-evergreen but you may want to cut it back in early spring to remove any brown blades and make way for new green growth.
One other aspect of muhly grass care is division. You can divide the plants every three years to keep them in an upright habit and producing plenty of inflorescences. Simply dig up the plant in late fall to early spring. Cut apart the root ball into at least two pieces, being careful to include healthy roots and lots of green grass blades on each section. Replant the pieces in the ground or pots, and water frequently for the first couple of weeks as the grasses grow. Care of pink muhly grass divisions is the same as older more established plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
For finely textured foliage in the shady to part sun garden or natural wooded area, consider growing lady fern plants (Athyrium filix-femina). Lady fern plants are reliable, native plants and easy to grow in a moist, partially shaded location. When you’ve learned how to grow a lady fern, you’ll want to include them in many shady areas of the landscape. Care of lady ferns is not difficult once the plant is established in the right location.
Lady Ferns in the Garden
Locating lady fern plants may require observation of the spot before planting. Lady ferns in the woodland garden do best in a lightly shaded spot or an area that gets dappled sunlight year round.
Plant them in a loamy soil that is slightly on the acidic side, amended with shredded oak leaves or other organic material that is well composted. Soil should be well-draining so that roots do not rot. Poultry grit may also be worked in to improve drainage. Planting lady ferns in the right place allows them to colonize and provide an attractive ground cover. Choose the proper cultivar for your area too. Athyrium filix-femina angustum (Northern lady fern) performs best in the upper United States, while Southern lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina asplenioides) takes the extreme summer heat of the south. Both have upright arching fronds that may reach 24 to 48 inches. More than 300 cultivars of lady fern plants are available commercially as well.
How to Grow a Lady Fern
Ferns may be propagated from spores, called sori and indusia, that grow on the back of the leaves. Starting ferns from spores can be a time consuming process, so start your lady fern plants from division of the rhizomes or by purchasing small plants. Divide lady ferns in the garden in spring. Then plant your lady ferns in the shady location where the soil has been amended, if necessary. Water regularly when planting lady ferns in a new spot. Once established, however, the plants are somewhat drought resistant.
Fertilize in spring when new growth appears as part of lady fern care. Ferns are easily injured by too much fertilizer. A pelleted, time-release type works best, applied once in spring. Planting lady ferns is a great choice for the woodlands, the pond or any moist shaded area. Get them started in the garden this year.
Lady Ferns in the Garden
Locating lady fern plants may require observation of the spot before planting. Lady ferns in the woodland garden do best in a lightly shaded spot or an area that gets dappled sunlight year round.
Plant them in a loamy soil that is slightly on the acidic side, amended with shredded oak leaves or other organic material that is well composted. Soil should be well-draining so that roots do not rot. Poultry grit may also be worked in to improve drainage. Planting lady ferns in the right place allows them to colonize and provide an attractive ground cover. Choose the proper cultivar for your area too. Athyrium filix-femina angustum (Northern lady fern) performs best in the upper United States, while Southern lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina asplenioides) takes the extreme summer heat of the south. Both have upright arching fronds that may reach 24 to 48 inches. More than 300 cultivars of lady fern plants are available commercially as well.
How to Grow a Lady Fern
Ferns may be propagated from spores, called sori and indusia, that grow on the back of the leaves. Starting ferns from spores can be a time consuming process, so start your lady fern plants from division of the rhizomes or by purchasing small plants. Divide lady ferns in the garden in spring. Then plant your lady ferns in the shady location where the soil has been amended, if necessary. Water regularly when planting lady ferns in a new spot. Once established, however, the plants are somewhat drought resistant.
Fertilize in spring when new growth appears as part of lady fern care. Ferns are easily injured by too much fertilizer. A pelleted, time-release type works best, applied once in spring. Planting lady ferns is a great choice for the woodlands, the pond or any moist shaded area. Get them started in the garden this year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月28日
Growing interrupted fern plants, Osmunda claytonia, is easy. Native to the Midwest and Northeast, these shade-tolerant plants grow in woodland sites. Gardeners add them to plantings of Solomon’s seal and hostas, or use the ferns to create a shaded border. Interrupted ferns even do well as erosion control plants on shaded slopes.
What is an Interrupted Fern?
Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.
Interrupted Fern Care
This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.
Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern
Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart:
Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown.
Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns.
Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems.
Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves.
For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.
What is an Interrupted Fern?
Interrupted fern plants grow a vase-shaped rosette of erect to nearly erect 2- to 4-foot (.60 to 1.2 m.) high leaves. The common name for these ferns is derived from the broad fronds being “interrupted” in the middle by three to seven spore-bearing leaflets, called pinnae. These middle leaflets, which are also the longest ones on the frond, wither and fall off in mid-summer leaving a blank space or gap on the stem. The leaflets above and below this interruption are sterile – they do not bear sporangia.
Interrupted Fern Care
This eastern North America native plant grows well in USDA zones 3-8. In the wild, it grows in shaded sites that are moderately wet. Growing interrupted ferns prefer sites with filtered sunlight, moist conditions, and sandy loam soils that are slightly acidic. Interrupted fern care is minimal as long as the soil has adequate organic content, there is sufficient humidity, and the site offers protection from prevailing winds to prevent drying out. The plants may grow in more direct sunlight if their roots are in moist soil. In spring, the plant’s dense mass of roots or rhizomes may be divided. These rhizomes are commercially harvested to create orchid peat used as a rooting medium for epiphytic orchids.
Interrupted Fern vs. Cinnamon Fern
Distinguishing interrupted fern over cinnamon fern, Osmunda cinnamomea, plants is difficult when just infertile leaves are present. Here is some interrupted fern info to help tell these plants apart:
Cinnamon fern petioles are more woolly-brown.
Cinnamon fern leaflets have pointed tips versus rounded tips of interrupted ferns.
Cinnamon fern leaflets also bear tufts of persistent, woolly hairs at the base of their stems.
Cinnamon ferns bear sporangia over the entire leaflet, whereas interrupted ferns plants only in the middle of their fertile leaves.
For more interrupted fern info, contact a local nursery or extension office in your area.
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