文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
As with most herbs, dill (Anethum graveolens) is a fairly easy to grow plant. Even so, the gardener may have to deal with his or her share of dill plant problems, from pests to dill plant diseases. The following article contains information on identifying and treating diseases affecting dill plants.
Dill Plant Problems
Dill is an herbaceous plant grown as an annual. A member of the family Apiaceae, dill is cultivated for its leaves and seeds which are used in foods and medicinally. Dill means “to calm or soothe,” hinting at its ancient use to calm upset stomachs or colicky babies.
Believed to originate in the Mediterranean, dill (like other Mediterranean herbs) can be grown in a variety of soils but thrives in well-draining sandy loam, rich in organic matter. Again, like its Mediterranean relatives, dill is a sun lover and needs 6-8 hours of direct sun each day.
The plant is grown for either its seeds that are produced once the starburst shaped, yellow flower heads begin to die back or for its feathery, fern-like foliage. Dill does not like to be transplanted, so it is best to direct sow in the spring once all danger of frost has passed. Once the plants have emerged (7-21 days later), thin to 12-15 inches between plants. Thereafter, promote a bushy habit by regularly pruning the plants back and take care not to over water. Once the plants have established, they are less likely to succumb to dill plant problems. That said, there are always the aphids that seem to be drawn to anything green and a plethora of other pests that must be watched for. Dill plant diseases are generally more deadly than pest infestation, but pests often are the source of dill diseases. Identifying and prompt treating of these issues with dill are the keys to saving the dill plants.
Diseases of Dill
As mentioned, insects are often the vectors for disease and aphids are one of the major culprits. Aphid infestations may result in the dill acquiring Carrot Motley Dwarf disease. This disease is caused by two viruses, carrot redleaf virus and carrot mottle virus, both of which must be present to infect the plant. The disease causes yellow and red discoloration of leaves and general stunting of plant growth. As the name suggests, carrots have are the origin for this disease, the aphids just pass it along. To prevent this disease of dill, control aphids with insecticidal soap and avoid planting the herb near areas of the garden where carrots have overwintered. Other diseases affecting dill plants are not insect related at all but fungal. Cercospora leaf blight fungus is one such disease that causes necrotic areas on the plant accompanied by a characteristic halo. These dying blemishes begin to blend together, resulting in large necrotic regions with the result of leaf die off. This disease may be the result of infested seed that is then spread via wind, rain or irrigation. To thwart cercospora leaf blight, use disease free seeds, rotate crops, eliminate crop debris, and use fungicide sprays according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Another fungal disease, damping off, may also afflict dill. This disease results in soft, rotting seeds which do not germinate, or seedlings that emerge with reddish lesions around their stems and soon after die. Fungal spores can be spread in water, soil or on equipment. Treatment involves applying a fungicide to seeds prior to planting; planting in raised beds to aid in soil drainage; and avoiding planting in cool, wet, poorly draining soil. Additional fungal diseases that afflict dill are downy mildew fungus and powdery mildew fungus.
Downy mildew fungus appears as yellow spots on foliage accompanied by a white, fluffy growth on the underside of the leaves. As the disease progresses, the yellow spots begin to darken. This disease targets young, tender leaves and is fostered by wet leaves. Use disease free seed, don’t overcrowd the plants and rotate crops to minimize the incidence of downy mildew. Powdery mildew looks just what it sounds like, a powdery growth that attacks leaves and flower stalks. The results are chlorotic leaves and distorted blossoms. This fungal disease may float on air currents for long distances and is favored by conditions of high humidity combined with moderate temps. Avoid over fertilizing and apply protective fungicides to prevent this disease from affecting dill. If infection is spotted early in the season, treat with an application of sulfur.
Treating Issues with Dill
There are a few common denominators when treating disease issues with dill. These include:
Planting disease resistant seeds, when possible
Keeping the garden free of plant detritus and weeds that act as havens for disease and insects that transmit them
Treating insect infestations
Rotating crops
Planting dill in well-draining soil
Watering early in the morning at the base of the plants so the foliage does not stay wet
Using sanitation practices on tools, boots, and gloves to avoid the spread of disease
Dill Plant Problems
Dill is an herbaceous plant grown as an annual. A member of the family Apiaceae, dill is cultivated for its leaves and seeds which are used in foods and medicinally. Dill means “to calm or soothe,” hinting at its ancient use to calm upset stomachs or colicky babies.
Believed to originate in the Mediterranean, dill (like other Mediterranean herbs) can be grown in a variety of soils but thrives in well-draining sandy loam, rich in organic matter. Again, like its Mediterranean relatives, dill is a sun lover and needs 6-8 hours of direct sun each day.
The plant is grown for either its seeds that are produced once the starburst shaped, yellow flower heads begin to die back or for its feathery, fern-like foliage. Dill does not like to be transplanted, so it is best to direct sow in the spring once all danger of frost has passed. Once the plants have emerged (7-21 days later), thin to 12-15 inches between plants. Thereafter, promote a bushy habit by regularly pruning the plants back and take care not to over water. Once the plants have established, they are less likely to succumb to dill plant problems. That said, there are always the aphids that seem to be drawn to anything green and a plethora of other pests that must be watched for. Dill plant diseases are generally more deadly than pest infestation, but pests often are the source of dill diseases. Identifying and prompt treating of these issues with dill are the keys to saving the dill plants.
Diseases of Dill
As mentioned, insects are often the vectors for disease and aphids are one of the major culprits. Aphid infestations may result in the dill acquiring Carrot Motley Dwarf disease. This disease is caused by two viruses, carrot redleaf virus and carrot mottle virus, both of which must be present to infect the plant. The disease causes yellow and red discoloration of leaves and general stunting of plant growth. As the name suggests, carrots have are the origin for this disease, the aphids just pass it along. To prevent this disease of dill, control aphids with insecticidal soap and avoid planting the herb near areas of the garden where carrots have overwintered. Other diseases affecting dill plants are not insect related at all but fungal. Cercospora leaf blight fungus is one such disease that causes necrotic areas on the plant accompanied by a characteristic halo. These dying blemishes begin to blend together, resulting in large necrotic regions with the result of leaf die off. This disease may be the result of infested seed that is then spread via wind, rain or irrigation. To thwart cercospora leaf blight, use disease free seeds, rotate crops, eliminate crop debris, and use fungicide sprays according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Another fungal disease, damping off, may also afflict dill. This disease results in soft, rotting seeds which do not germinate, or seedlings that emerge with reddish lesions around their stems and soon after die. Fungal spores can be spread in water, soil or on equipment. Treatment involves applying a fungicide to seeds prior to planting; planting in raised beds to aid in soil drainage; and avoiding planting in cool, wet, poorly draining soil. Additional fungal diseases that afflict dill are downy mildew fungus and powdery mildew fungus.
Downy mildew fungus appears as yellow spots on foliage accompanied by a white, fluffy growth on the underside of the leaves. As the disease progresses, the yellow spots begin to darken. This disease targets young, tender leaves and is fostered by wet leaves. Use disease free seed, don’t overcrowd the plants and rotate crops to minimize the incidence of downy mildew. Powdery mildew looks just what it sounds like, a powdery growth that attacks leaves and flower stalks. The results are chlorotic leaves and distorted blossoms. This fungal disease may float on air currents for long distances and is favored by conditions of high humidity combined with moderate temps. Avoid over fertilizing and apply protective fungicides to prevent this disease from affecting dill. If infection is spotted early in the season, treat with an application of sulfur.
Treating Issues with Dill
There are a few common denominators when treating disease issues with dill. These include:
Planting disease resistant seeds, when possible
Keeping the garden free of plant detritus and weeds that act as havens for disease and insects that transmit them
Treating insect infestations
Rotating crops
Planting dill in well-draining soil
Watering early in the morning at the base of the plants so the foliage does not stay wet
Using sanitation practices on tools, boots, and gloves to avoid the spread of disease
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill is a great herb to have around. It has fragrant, delicate foliage, bright yellow flowers and a flavor like none other. But there are a few different varieties of dill, and it may not be easy to know which one to grow. Keep reading to learn more about dill weed varieties and the different types of dill plants.
Dill Plant Types
So what are some different varieties of dill? There aren’t too many varieties of dill, but here are some notable types:
Bouquet is probably the most popular variety, grown for its fragrant leaves and seeds that are used in both cooking and pickling.
Long Island and Mammoth are also both very popular, largely because they grow so tall. Both can reach five feet in height and are excellent for pickling.
Fernleaf is a common dwarf variety at the other end of the spectrum, topping out at around 18 inches in height. It’s especially popular grown in containers as well as cut and used in flower arrangements.
Dukat is another smaller one of the dill plant types that is good for container growing, a compact variety that is brighter green than its cousins. It’s especially popular in salads.
Superdukat is a cultivar that has more essential oil than Dukat.
Delikat has lots of very dense foliage, making it ideal for harvesting the leaves for cooking.
Vierling is a variety that takes longer to bolt than other varieties of dill, making it a good choice if you want to harvest leaves all summer long.
Hercules is another variety that takes a long time to flower, though its leaves are coarser than those of other types, which means it’s best to harvest when the plant is young and the leaves are the most tender.
Dill Plant Types
So what are some different varieties of dill? There aren’t too many varieties of dill, but here are some notable types:
Bouquet is probably the most popular variety, grown for its fragrant leaves and seeds that are used in both cooking and pickling.
Long Island and Mammoth are also both very popular, largely because they grow so tall. Both can reach five feet in height and are excellent for pickling.
Fernleaf is a common dwarf variety at the other end of the spectrum, topping out at around 18 inches in height. It’s especially popular grown in containers as well as cut and used in flower arrangements.
Dukat is another smaller one of the dill plant types that is good for container growing, a compact variety that is brighter green than its cousins. It’s especially popular in salads.
Superdukat is a cultivar that has more essential oil than Dukat.
Delikat has lots of very dense foliage, making it ideal for harvesting the leaves for cooking.
Vierling is a variety that takes longer to bolt than other varieties of dill, making it a good choice if you want to harvest leaves all summer long.
Hercules is another variety that takes a long time to flower, though its leaves are coarser than those of other types, which means it’s best to harvest when the plant is young and the leaves are the most tender.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Herbs are the perfect plants to grow in containers, and dill is no exception. It’s beautiful, it’s tasty, and in late summer it produces fantastic yellow flowers. Having it in a container near or even in your kitchen is a great way to ensure you get the most out of cooking with it. But how do you grow potted dill plants? Keep reading to learn more about growing dill in containers and care of dill in pots.
Potted Dill Plant Care
The most important thing to keep in mind when growing dill in containers is the depth of your containers. Dill grows a long tap root, and any container shallower than 12 inches won’t provide enough space for it. That being said, your container doesn’t need to be extremely deep. Dill is an annual, so it doesn’t need extra space to build up a big root system over the years. One to two feet deep should be plenty. You can sow dill seeds directly into your container. Fill it up with any soilless potting mix, making sure there are drainage holes in the bottom, first. Dill will grow in most types of soil, though it prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface, then cover them with a very light layer of potting mix.
Potted dill plants need 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day and warm temperatures above 60 degrees F. (15 C.) to sprout. If all danger of frost has passed, you can keep your potted dill plants outside, but if it’s still early spring, you should keep them indoors in a sunny window or under a grow light. Keep the soil moist by misting often. Once the seedlings are a few inches high, thin to one or two per pot and care for as you normally would out in the garden.
Potted Dill Plant Care
The most important thing to keep in mind when growing dill in containers is the depth of your containers. Dill grows a long tap root, and any container shallower than 12 inches won’t provide enough space for it. That being said, your container doesn’t need to be extremely deep. Dill is an annual, so it doesn’t need extra space to build up a big root system over the years. One to two feet deep should be plenty. You can sow dill seeds directly into your container. Fill it up with any soilless potting mix, making sure there are drainage holes in the bottom, first. Dill will grow in most types of soil, though it prefers well-drained, slightly acidic soil. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface, then cover them with a very light layer of potting mix.
Potted dill plants need 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day and warm temperatures above 60 degrees F. (15 C.) to sprout. If all danger of frost has passed, you can keep your potted dill plants outside, but if it’s still early spring, you should keep them indoors in a sunny window or under a grow light. Keep the soil moist by misting often. Once the seedlings are a few inches high, thin to one or two per pot and care for as you normally would out in the garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Cotton growing with kids is easy and most will find this to be a fun project in addition to an educational one, especially once the finished product is harvested. Let’s learn more about how to grow cotton both indoors and out.
Cotton Plant Info
While cotton (Gossypium) has been around for a long time and grown mainly for its fibers, cotton growing with kids can be a fun learning experience. Not only will they get a chance to learn some cotton plant info, but they will love the fluffy, white product of all their labor. You can take the lesson further by exploring how your harvested cotton gets processed to make the clothes we wear. Cotton is a warm climate plant. It cannot tolerate temperatures cooler than 60°F. (15 C.). If you live in a cooler climate, it is better to start the plant indoors and then transplant it out once the temps have warmed up. Cotton is also self-pollinating, so you don’t need a lot of plants.
How to Grow Cotton Outdoors
Cotton is planted outdoors in spring once the threat of frost has passed. Check the soil temperature with a soil thermometer to ensure that it is at least 60 degrees F. six inches down. Keep checking this for a three-day period every morning. Once the soil maintains this temperature, you can work the soil, adding an inch or so of compost to it. Compost is a great source of nitrogen, potassium, and trace minerals necessary for strong plant growth. Help your child create a furrow with a garden hoe. Moisten the soil. Plant your cotton seeds in groups of three, one inch deep and four inches apart. Cover and firm the soil. Within a couple weeks, the seeds should begin to sprout. Under optimal conditions, they will sprout within a week but temps under 60 degrees F. will prevent or delay germination.
Growing Cotton Plants Indoors
Planting cotton seeds indoors is also possible, keeping temperatures over 60 degrees F. (which shouldn’t be difficult in the house). Pre-moisten potting soil and mix this with healthy soil from the garden. Cut the top from a ½ gallon milk jug and add some drainage holes in the bottom (You can also use any 4-6 inch pot of your choosing). Fill this container with the potting mix, leaving a space of about two inches or so from the top. Place about three cotton seeds on top of the soil and then cover with another inch or so of potting mix. Place in sunlight and keep moist, adding water as needed so the upper portion of soil does not get too dry. You should begin to see sprouts within 7-10 days. Once the seedlings have sprouted, you can thoroughly water the plants each week as part of your cotton plant care. Also, rotate the pot so the cotton seedlings grow uniformly. Transplant the strongest seedling to a larger container or outdoors, making sure to provide at least 4-5 hours of sunlight.
Cotton Plant Care
You will need to keep the plants watered throughout the summer months as part of optimal cotton plant care. At around four to five weeks, the plants will begin branching. By eight weeks you should start to notice the first squares, after which blooming soon follows. Once the creamy, white flowers have been pollinated, they will turn pink. At this point the plants will begin producing a boll (which becomes the ‘cotton ball.’). It is crucial that water be given during this entire process to ensure adequate growth and production. Cotton is ready for harvesting once all of the bolls have cracked open and looks like a fluffy ball. This normally occurs within four months of planting. The growing cotton plants will naturally dry up and shed their leaves just prior to the bolls cracking. Be sure to wear some glove when harvesting cotton from your plants to protect your little one’s hands from getting cut. Your harvested cotton can be dried and the seeds saved for planting again next year.
Cotton Plant Info
While cotton (Gossypium) has been around for a long time and grown mainly for its fibers, cotton growing with kids can be a fun learning experience. Not only will they get a chance to learn some cotton plant info, but they will love the fluffy, white product of all their labor. You can take the lesson further by exploring how your harvested cotton gets processed to make the clothes we wear. Cotton is a warm climate plant. It cannot tolerate temperatures cooler than 60°F. (15 C.). If you live in a cooler climate, it is better to start the plant indoors and then transplant it out once the temps have warmed up. Cotton is also self-pollinating, so you don’t need a lot of plants.
How to Grow Cotton Outdoors
Cotton is planted outdoors in spring once the threat of frost has passed. Check the soil temperature with a soil thermometer to ensure that it is at least 60 degrees F. six inches down. Keep checking this for a three-day period every morning. Once the soil maintains this temperature, you can work the soil, adding an inch or so of compost to it. Compost is a great source of nitrogen, potassium, and trace minerals necessary for strong plant growth. Help your child create a furrow with a garden hoe. Moisten the soil. Plant your cotton seeds in groups of three, one inch deep and four inches apart. Cover and firm the soil. Within a couple weeks, the seeds should begin to sprout. Under optimal conditions, they will sprout within a week but temps under 60 degrees F. will prevent or delay germination.
Growing Cotton Plants Indoors
Planting cotton seeds indoors is also possible, keeping temperatures over 60 degrees F. (which shouldn’t be difficult in the house). Pre-moisten potting soil and mix this with healthy soil from the garden. Cut the top from a ½ gallon milk jug and add some drainage holes in the bottom (You can also use any 4-6 inch pot of your choosing). Fill this container with the potting mix, leaving a space of about two inches or so from the top. Place about three cotton seeds on top of the soil and then cover with another inch or so of potting mix. Place in sunlight and keep moist, adding water as needed so the upper portion of soil does not get too dry. You should begin to see sprouts within 7-10 days. Once the seedlings have sprouted, you can thoroughly water the plants each week as part of your cotton plant care. Also, rotate the pot so the cotton seedlings grow uniformly. Transplant the strongest seedling to a larger container or outdoors, making sure to provide at least 4-5 hours of sunlight.
Cotton Plant Care
You will need to keep the plants watered throughout the summer months as part of optimal cotton plant care. At around four to five weeks, the plants will begin branching. By eight weeks you should start to notice the first squares, after which blooming soon follows. Once the creamy, white flowers have been pollinated, they will turn pink. At this point the plants will begin producing a boll (which becomes the ‘cotton ball.’). It is crucial that water be given during this entire process to ensure adequate growth and production. Cotton is ready for harvesting once all of the bolls have cracked open and looks like a fluffy ball. This normally occurs within four months of planting. The growing cotton plants will naturally dry up and shed their leaves just prior to the bolls cracking. Be sure to wear some glove when harvesting cotton from your plants to protect your little one’s hands from getting cut. Your harvested cotton can be dried and the seeds saved for planting again next year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Growing chives indoors make perfect sense so that you may have them near the kitchen. Use chives liberally in dishes; chives growing indoors will benefit from a regular trim. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow chives indoors.
How to Grow Chives Indoors
A sunny south window offers the six to eight hours of full sunlight needed when growing chives inside. Rotate pots if chives are reaching toward the light.
If a sunny window is not an option, chives growing indoors can get the necessary light from a fluorescent fixture six to twelve inches above the pot. Two 40-watt bulbs work best when growing chives inside. Chives growing indoors appreciate other growing pots close by to provide humidity as well as a fan for air circulation. Humidity for indoor chives may also be provided by nearby pebble trays filled with water or miniature water features nearby. Misting with a water bottle can also help prevent low humidity. Chives growing inside should be watered when the soil is dry to the touch on the top.
Low dose fertilization is recommended for growing chives indoors. A water soluble fertilizer at half strength may be applied twice per month; heavier doses may weaken the taste of the chives. When growing chives indoors, pests should be minimal. Often the aroma of chives acts at a pest repellent, but in the event of insect problems, spray well with soapy water. This can be applied as needed.
Tips for Planting Chives Indoors
To begin growing chives indoors, fill a 6-inch clay pot with well-draining potting medium which you have pre-moistened. Soil should form a ball when squeezed, but not be soggy or dripping water. Broadcast seeds over the pre-moistened medium and cover with a fine layer of the pre-moistened soil, about ¼ inch deep. Place in the lighted area. Seeds may be kept moist until germination with a mist of water, weak plant food or weak compost tea.
Chives germinate within two weeks, often more quickly. Growing chives indoors offers a handy and easy way to season your food and brighten your space.
How to Grow Chives Indoors
A sunny south window offers the six to eight hours of full sunlight needed when growing chives inside. Rotate pots if chives are reaching toward the light.
If a sunny window is not an option, chives growing indoors can get the necessary light from a fluorescent fixture six to twelve inches above the pot. Two 40-watt bulbs work best when growing chives inside. Chives growing indoors appreciate other growing pots close by to provide humidity as well as a fan for air circulation. Humidity for indoor chives may also be provided by nearby pebble trays filled with water or miniature water features nearby. Misting with a water bottle can also help prevent low humidity. Chives growing inside should be watered when the soil is dry to the touch on the top.
Low dose fertilization is recommended for growing chives indoors. A water soluble fertilizer at half strength may be applied twice per month; heavier doses may weaken the taste of the chives. When growing chives indoors, pests should be minimal. Often the aroma of chives acts at a pest repellent, but in the event of insect problems, spray well with soapy water. This can be applied as needed.
Tips for Planting Chives Indoors
To begin growing chives indoors, fill a 6-inch clay pot with well-draining potting medium which you have pre-moistened. Soil should form a ball when squeezed, but not be soggy or dripping water. Broadcast seeds over the pre-moistened medium and cover with a fine layer of the pre-moistened soil, about ¼ inch deep. Place in the lighted area. Seeds may be kept moist until germination with a mist of water, weak plant food or weak compost tea.
Chives germinate within two weeks, often more quickly. Growing chives indoors offers a handy and easy way to season your food and brighten your space.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chives are low-maintenance denizens of the herb garden, and they’re handy when you want to snip a few for use in recipes or topping baked potatoes. The only problem is that these easy-to-grow plants aren’t always well behaved and before you know it, they can escape their boundaries and pop up in places where you don’t want them – including your well-tended lawn. Read on for helpful tips for controlling chives and ridding lawns of chive plants.
How Do You Get Rid of Chives?
If chives are spreading in lawns, you’ll need to implement a two-pronged approach because chives spread by both seeds and underground bulbs. To prevent the plant from going to seed, remove all of the blooms before they wilt – or better yet, mow or trim them before they have a chance to bloom at all. Removing the chive bulbs requires digging – a lot. A thin trowel or similar tool is best for digging bulbs in grass, and you may sacrifice a small amount of grass to get rid of the chives. Water the area the day before to soften the ground. Don’t attempt to pull the plants because the tiny bulblets will break off and spread. Be persistent and continue to dig as soon as new plants appear.
Controlling Chives with Chemicals
Chemical herbicides aren’t always effective against chives because of the waxy coating on the leaves. However, many gardeners find that products containing 2,4-D are effective against chives, and this chemical is safe to use on most – but not all – types of grass. Be sure to read the label carefully before spraying your lawn to prevent serious damage caused by using the wrong product. Ridding lawns of chive plants may require several applications. Now that you know how to better manage this plant, growing chives in the garden can become a less frustrating process.
How Do You Get Rid of Chives?
If chives are spreading in lawns, you’ll need to implement a two-pronged approach because chives spread by both seeds and underground bulbs. To prevent the plant from going to seed, remove all of the blooms before they wilt – or better yet, mow or trim them before they have a chance to bloom at all. Removing the chive bulbs requires digging – a lot. A thin trowel or similar tool is best for digging bulbs in grass, and you may sacrifice a small amount of grass to get rid of the chives. Water the area the day before to soften the ground. Don’t attempt to pull the plants because the tiny bulblets will break off and spread. Be persistent and continue to dig as soon as new plants appear.
Controlling Chives with Chemicals
Chemical herbicides aren’t always effective against chives because of the waxy coating on the leaves. However, many gardeners find that products containing 2,4-D are effective against chives, and this chemical is safe to use on most – but not all – types of grass. Be sure to read the label carefully before spraying your lawn to prevent serious damage caused by using the wrong product. Ridding lawns of chive plants may require several applications. Now that you know how to better manage this plant, growing chives in the garden can become a less frustrating process.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
If there were an award for “easiest herb to grow,” growing chives (Allium schoenoprasum) would win that award. Learning how to grow chives is so easy that even a child can do it, which makes this plant an excellent herb to help introduce children to herb gardening.
How to Plant Chives from Divisions
Divisions are the most common way how to plant chives. Find an established clump of chives in early spring or mid fall. Gently dig the clump and pull away a smaller clump from the main clump. The smaller clump should have at least five to 10 bulbs. Transplant this small clump to the desired location in your garden where you will be growing chives.
How to Plant Chives from Seeds
While chives are frequently grown from divisions, they are just as easy to start from seeds. Chive can be started indoors or outdoors. Plant chives seeds about 1/4-inch deep in the soil. Water well. If you’re planting chive seeds indoors, place the pot in a dark spot in temperatures 60 to 70 F. (15 to 21 C.) until the seeds sprout, then move them into the light. When the chives reach 6 inches, you can transplant them to the garden. If you’re planting the chive seeds outdoors, wait ’till after the last frost to plant the seeds. The seeds may take a little extra time to sprout until the soil warms up.
Where to Grow Chives
Chives will grow just about anywhere, but prefer strong light and rich soil. Chives also don’t do as well in soil that is too wet or too dry.
Growing Chives Indoors
Growing chives indoors is also easy. Chives do very well indoors and will frequently be the herb that will do the best in your indoor herb garden. The best way how to grow chives indoors is to plant them in a pot that drains well, but is filled with a good potting soil. Place the chives where they will get bright light. Continue harvesting chives as you would if they were outdoors.
Harvesting Chives
Harvesting chives is as easy as growing chives. Once the chives are about a foot tall, simply snip off what you need. When harvesting chives, you can cut the chive plant back to half its size without harming the plant. If your chive plant starts to flower, the flowers are edible as well. Add the chive flowers to your salad or as decorations for soup. Knowing how to grow chives is as easy as knowing how to chew bubble gum. Add these tasty herbs to your garden today.
How to Plant Chives from Divisions
Divisions are the most common way how to plant chives. Find an established clump of chives in early spring or mid fall. Gently dig the clump and pull away a smaller clump from the main clump. The smaller clump should have at least five to 10 bulbs. Transplant this small clump to the desired location in your garden where you will be growing chives.
How to Plant Chives from Seeds
While chives are frequently grown from divisions, they are just as easy to start from seeds. Chive can be started indoors or outdoors. Plant chives seeds about 1/4-inch deep in the soil. Water well. If you’re planting chive seeds indoors, place the pot in a dark spot in temperatures 60 to 70 F. (15 to 21 C.) until the seeds sprout, then move them into the light. When the chives reach 6 inches, you can transplant them to the garden. If you’re planting the chive seeds outdoors, wait ’till after the last frost to plant the seeds. The seeds may take a little extra time to sprout until the soil warms up.
Where to Grow Chives
Chives will grow just about anywhere, but prefer strong light and rich soil. Chives also don’t do as well in soil that is too wet or too dry.
Growing Chives Indoors
Growing chives indoors is also easy. Chives do very well indoors and will frequently be the herb that will do the best in your indoor herb garden. The best way how to grow chives indoors is to plant them in a pot that drains well, but is filled with a good potting soil. Place the chives where they will get bright light. Continue harvesting chives as you would if they were outdoors.
Harvesting Chives
Harvesting chives is as easy as growing chives. Once the chives are about a foot tall, simply snip off what you need. When harvesting chives, you can cut the chive plant back to half its size without harming the plant. If your chive plant starts to flower, the flowers are edible as well. Add the chive flowers to your salad or as decorations for soup. Knowing how to grow chives is as easy as knowing how to chew bubble gum. Add these tasty herbs to your garden today.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Chamomile is a fantastic herb to grow. Its foliage and flowers are bright, its fragrance is sweet, and the tea that can be brewed from the leaves is relaxing and easy to make. While it will thrive outdoors, chamomile will also grow very well indoors in a pot. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow chamomile indoors.
How to Grow Chamomile Indoors
One of the best things about growing chamomile indoors is that it can be planted in the winter. Requiring only four hours of light per day, your chamomile will be fine as long as it has a spot by a south-facing window. It will probably grow no higher than 10 inches (25 cm), but the plant will still be healthy and the flowers fragrant. Sow your chamomile seeds directly in the soil. You can start them in small seed starters and transplant them, or begin them in their ultimate pot. Choose a pot that’s at least 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and has good drainage. Wet your potting soil so that it’s moist but not sodden, and press the seeds into the surface of the soil so that they’re still visible – chamomile seeds need light to germinate. The seeds will germinate best at a temperature of 68 F. (20 C.), so if your house is cold, place them on a heating mat or near a radiator. They should sprout in about two weeks. After they’ve developed their second set of true leaves, transplant them if they began in a seed starter or thin them to one every 2 inches (5 cm) if they began in a big pot.
Chamomile Care Indoors
Care of chamomile indoors is easy. The pot should be kept near a south-facing window. The soil should be kept moist but not overly wet; watering once per week should be enough. After 60 to 90 days, the plant should be ready to harvest for tea.
How to Grow Chamomile Indoors
One of the best things about growing chamomile indoors is that it can be planted in the winter. Requiring only four hours of light per day, your chamomile will be fine as long as it has a spot by a south-facing window. It will probably grow no higher than 10 inches (25 cm), but the plant will still be healthy and the flowers fragrant. Sow your chamomile seeds directly in the soil. You can start them in small seed starters and transplant them, or begin them in their ultimate pot. Choose a pot that’s at least 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter and has good drainage. Wet your potting soil so that it’s moist but not sodden, and press the seeds into the surface of the soil so that they’re still visible – chamomile seeds need light to germinate. The seeds will germinate best at a temperature of 68 F. (20 C.), so if your house is cold, place them on a heating mat or near a radiator. They should sprout in about two weeks. After they’ve developed their second set of true leaves, transplant them if they began in a seed starter or thin them to one every 2 inches (5 cm) if they began in a big pot.
Chamomile Care Indoors
Care of chamomile indoors is easy. The pot should be kept near a south-facing window. The soil should be kept moist but not overly wet; watering once per week should be enough. After 60 to 90 days, the plant should be ready to harvest for tea.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
You’ve probably heard about black cohosh with respect to women’s health. This interesting herb plant has much to offer for those wishing to grow it. Keep reading for more information on black cohosh plant care.
About Black Cohosh Plants
Found in the eastern United States, black cohosh plants are herbaceous wildflowers with an affinity for moist, partially shaded growing areas. Black cohosh is a member of the Ranunculaceae family, Cimicifuga reacemosa, and commonly referred to as black snakeroot or bugbane. Growing black cohosh gets the name ‘Bugbane’ in reference to its unpleasant odor, which renders it repellent to insects.
This wildflower has small plumes of star-shaped white flowers that soar upwards of 8 feet (more commonly 4 to 6 feet tall) above deep green, fern-like leaves. Growing black cohosh plants in the home landscape will definitively lend some drama due to its spectacular height and late summer blooms. Black cohosh perennials have foliage similar to that of astilbe, sharply serrated, and show themselves off nicely in shade gardens.
Black Cohosh Herb Benefits
Native American people once used growing black cohosh plants for a medley of medical issues, from snake bites to gynecological conditions. During the 19th century, physicians availed themselves of black cohosh herb benefits with regards to fever reduction, menstrual cramping, and arthritis pain. Additional benefits deemed the plant useful in the treatment of sore throats and bronchitis. Most recently, black cohosh has been utilized as an alternative medicine in the treatment of menopausal and premenopausal symptoms with a proven “estrogen-like” balm to reduce disagreeable symptoms, most especially hot flashes and night sweats. The roots and rhizomes of black cohosh are the medicinal portion of the plant and will be ready for harvesting three to five years after planting.
Black Cohosh Plant Care
In order to plant black cohosh in the home garden, either purchase seeds from a reputable nursery or collect your own. To collect seeds, do so in the fall when the seeds are mature and have dried out in their capsules; they will have started to split open and when shaken make a rattling sound. Sow these seeds immediately. Seeds for growing black cohosh plants must be stratified or exposed to a warm/cold/warm cycle to stimulate germination. To stratify the black cohosh seeds, expose them to 70 degrees F. (21 C.) for two weeks, and then 40 degrees F. (4 C.) for three months. Once the seeds have gone through this process, plant them 1 ½ to 2 inches apart and about ¼ inch deep in prepared moist soil that is high in organic matter and covered with a 1-inch layer of mulch. Although this herb prefers shade, it will grow in full sun; however, the plants will be of a lighter shade of green and may have more of a propensity for scalding of the foliage. You may want to sow seeds in a cold frame for germination the following spring if you have a particularly hostile climate. Black cohosh may also be propagated via division or separation in the spring or fall but not sooner than three years after planting. Maintain a consistently moist soil for your black cohosh plants, as they dislike drying out. Additionally, tall flower stalks may likely need staking. These perennials are slow growers and may require a little patience but will lend visual interest in the home landscape. Even the spent seed casings may be left throughout the winter to add texture to the garden.
About Black Cohosh Plants
Found in the eastern United States, black cohosh plants are herbaceous wildflowers with an affinity for moist, partially shaded growing areas. Black cohosh is a member of the Ranunculaceae family, Cimicifuga reacemosa, and commonly referred to as black snakeroot or bugbane. Growing black cohosh gets the name ‘Bugbane’ in reference to its unpleasant odor, which renders it repellent to insects.
This wildflower has small plumes of star-shaped white flowers that soar upwards of 8 feet (more commonly 4 to 6 feet tall) above deep green, fern-like leaves. Growing black cohosh plants in the home landscape will definitively lend some drama due to its spectacular height and late summer blooms. Black cohosh perennials have foliage similar to that of astilbe, sharply serrated, and show themselves off nicely in shade gardens.
Black Cohosh Herb Benefits
Native American people once used growing black cohosh plants for a medley of medical issues, from snake bites to gynecological conditions. During the 19th century, physicians availed themselves of black cohosh herb benefits with regards to fever reduction, menstrual cramping, and arthritis pain. Additional benefits deemed the plant useful in the treatment of sore throats and bronchitis. Most recently, black cohosh has been utilized as an alternative medicine in the treatment of menopausal and premenopausal symptoms with a proven “estrogen-like” balm to reduce disagreeable symptoms, most especially hot flashes and night sweats. The roots and rhizomes of black cohosh are the medicinal portion of the plant and will be ready for harvesting three to five years after planting.
Black Cohosh Plant Care
In order to plant black cohosh in the home garden, either purchase seeds from a reputable nursery or collect your own. To collect seeds, do so in the fall when the seeds are mature and have dried out in their capsules; they will have started to split open and when shaken make a rattling sound. Sow these seeds immediately. Seeds for growing black cohosh plants must be stratified or exposed to a warm/cold/warm cycle to stimulate germination. To stratify the black cohosh seeds, expose them to 70 degrees F. (21 C.) for two weeks, and then 40 degrees F. (4 C.) for three months. Once the seeds have gone through this process, plant them 1 ½ to 2 inches apart and about ¼ inch deep in prepared moist soil that is high in organic matter and covered with a 1-inch layer of mulch. Although this herb prefers shade, it will grow in full sun; however, the plants will be of a lighter shade of green and may have more of a propensity for scalding of the foliage. You may want to sow seeds in a cold frame for germination the following spring if you have a particularly hostile climate. Black cohosh may also be propagated via division or separation in the spring or fall but not sooner than three years after planting. Maintain a consistently moist soil for your black cohosh plants, as they dislike drying out. Additionally, tall flower stalks may likely need staking. These perennials are slow growers and may require a little patience but will lend visual interest in the home landscape. Even the spent seed casings may be left throughout the winter to add texture to the garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Bay leaf is known as a seasoning, but those leaves grow on a tree of the same name. It can row to 60 feet (18 m.) high in the wild. Can you grow bay in a container? It is entirely possible. A bay leaf tree in a pot is attractive, accepts pruning and stays much smaller than forest trees. For information about growing bay leaves in containers, read on.
Bay Laurel in a Container
Bay leaf (Laurus nobilis), also called bay laurel or bay tree, is an evergreen tree native to the Mediterranean region. It is known to American cooks as a seasoning, but to gardeners, it is also a charming garden ornamental. Bay leaf has been grown for centuries. The famous celebratory “crown of laurels” was made from bay leaf. In addition, the leaves are used medicinally in Europe.
Bay laurel has attractive, shiny foliage that stays on the tree all year round. Add to that the delight of a sweet fragrance with a touch of spicy nutmeg. The tree grows yellow flowers that turn into dark berries in the autumn. Container grown bay trees are nice additions to a small garden. If you are growing bay leaves in containers, you can leave them outside in winter if you live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. If your climate is cooler, you’ll have to carry the container-grown bay trees inside in winter.
How to Grow Bay Leaf Tree in a Pot
A bay leaf can grow into a towering tree over time, so how can you grow bay in a container? The fact is, bay leaf grows very slowly and accepts almost severe pruning. You can snip it down to size by pruning every year. And when you grow bay laurel in a container, the tree naturally stays smaller than when its roots are in the soil. To start growing bay leaves in containers, you can plant bay leaf seeds. But seeds take a long time to get started. It’s faster if you purchase small seedlings. They will ultimately grow into mature bay trees. Drainage is very important to a bay leaf. Select a container with ample drain holes and use container soil that drains easily. Start with a small pot and repot when necessary. Don’t be in a hurry to transplant your bay laurel in a container. The plants do well when they are a little cramped. Wait until you see roots coming out of the container’s drainage holes.
Where to put a bay leaf tree in a pot? If it is outdoors, select a spot that is somewhat protected from the elements. Pick a spot with some shade and with wind protection. If you bring the pot inside during cold weather, put it in a cool spot. It will go dormant, so won’t require much water or sun. If you site the bay leaf tree in a pot in a warmer area, it will not be dormant, so you’ll need to make sure it gets some sun and regular water.
Bay Laurel in a Container
Bay leaf (Laurus nobilis), also called bay laurel or bay tree, is an evergreen tree native to the Mediterranean region. It is known to American cooks as a seasoning, but to gardeners, it is also a charming garden ornamental. Bay leaf has been grown for centuries. The famous celebratory “crown of laurels” was made from bay leaf. In addition, the leaves are used medicinally in Europe.
Bay laurel has attractive, shiny foliage that stays on the tree all year round. Add to that the delight of a sweet fragrance with a touch of spicy nutmeg. The tree grows yellow flowers that turn into dark berries in the autumn. Container grown bay trees are nice additions to a small garden. If you are growing bay leaves in containers, you can leave them outside in winter if you live in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. If your climate is cooler, you’ll have to carry the container-grown bay trees inside in winter.
How to Grow Bay Leaf Tree in a Pot
A bay leaf can grow into a towering tree over time, so how can you grow bay in a container? The fact is, bay leaf grows very slowly and accepts almost severe pruning. You can snip it down to size by pruning every year. And when you grow bay laurel in a container, the tree naturally stays smaller than when its roots are in the soil. To start growing bay leaves in containers, you can plant bay leaf seeds. But seeds take a long time to get started. It’s faster if you purchase small seedlings. They will ultimately grow into mature bay trees. Drainage is very important to a bay leaf. Select a container with ample drain holes and use container soil that drains easily. Start with a small pot and repot when necessary. Don’t be in a hurry to transplant your bay laurel in a container. The plants do well when they are a little cramped. Wait until you see roots coming out of the container’s drainage holes.
Where to put a bay leaf tree in a pot? If it is outdoors, select a spot that is somewhat protected from the elements. Pick a spot with some shade and with wind protection. If you bring the pot inside during cold weather, put it in a cool spot. It will go dormant, so won’t require much water or sun. If you site the bay leaf tree in a pot in a warmer area, it will not be dormant, so you’ll need to make sure it gets some sun and regular water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Bay leaves add their essence and aroma to our soups and stews, but did you ever wonder how to grow a bay leaf tree? The seasoning is so commonplace it is easy to forget that the leaves are from a growing tree. The sweet bay leaf tree (Laurus nobilis) is a 40- to 50-foot tall tree native to the Mediterranean region. It was once made into a wreath to crown the winners of ancient Greek games. The tree is considered to be one of the oldest cultivated tree species.
About Sweet Bay Leaf Trees
Sweet bay leaf tree is frost tender and is only hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 7. It prefers a full sun exposure and blooms in spring to summer. The leaves are leathery and stiff with a strong mid-rib. Crushing the leaf releases aromatic oil that is the source of the flavoring for foods. Bay tree care is very simple and straightforward but protection must be given to these trees in cold climates.
How to Grow a Bay Leaf Tree
Sweet bay trees should be planted in well drained soil with an incorporation of generous amounts of compost. The trees can be kept at a smaller growth habit if grown in a container, which also allows the gardener to bring the tree indoors or to a sheltered location when cold temperatures threaten. Plant the trees at the same level in soil that they were grown in their nursery pot. Planting bay trees is best done in early spring when they are semi-dormant.
You can grow a bay tree simply as an ornamental plant or as part of your culinary arsenal. Growing a bay tree from cuttings or air layering is the common form of propagation. Cuttings should be taken in late summer and set into a soil-less medium. Air layering requires the gardener to wound the tree and pack it with sphagnum moss until roots form in the wound. The stem or branch can then be cut off and planted. Protect sweet bay trees from heavy winds, which are damaging to the weak wood. Bay trees do not need feeding or supplemental watering in winter. Bay trees can be trained to a topiary or other form with careful management when the plant is young. Place a potted plant in an area where temperatures range from 45 to 64 F. (7 to 17 C.) and where sunlight is from a southern or eastern direction.
Harvest and Use of Sweet Bay Leaf Tree
Leaves may be harvested at any time but the best flavor can be had from larger, mature leaves. Lay the leaves out to dry and crush them or use them whole but remove before eating. The leaves are a common ingredient in the French seasoning packet, bouquet garni, which is wrapped in cheesecloth and steeped in soups and sauces. It is worth learning how to grow a bay leaf tree for ornamentation and fresh wholesome seasoning.
About Sweet Bay Leaf Trees
Sweet bay leaf tree is frost tender and is only hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 7. It prefers a full sun exposure and blooms in spring to summer. The leaves are leathery and stiff with a strong mid-rib. Crushing the leaf releases aromatic oil that is the source of the flavoring for foods. Bay tree care is very simple and straightforward but protection must be given to these trees in cold climates.
How to Grow a Bay Leaf Tree
Sweet bay trees should be planted in well drained soil with an incorporation of generous amounts of compost. The trees can be kept at a smaller growth habit if grown in a container, which also allows the gardener to bring the tree indoors or to a sheltered location when cold temperatures threaten. Plant the trees at the same level in soil that they were grown in their nursery pot. Planting bay trees is best done in early spring when they are semi-dormant.
You can grow a bay tree simply as an ornamental plant or as part of your culinary arsenal. Growing a bay tree from cuttings or air layering is the common form of propagation. Cuttings should be taken in late summer and set into a soil-less medium. Air layering requires the gardener to wound the tree and pack it with sphagnum moss until roots form in the wound. The stem or branch can then be cut off and planted. Protect sweet bay trees from heavy winds, which are damaging to the weak wood. Bay trees do not need feeding or supplemental watering in winter. Bay trees can be trained to a topiary or other form with careful management when the plant is young. Place a potted plant in an area where temperatures range from 45 to 64 F. (7 to 17 C.) and where sunlight is from a southern or eastern direction.
Harvest and Use of Sweet Bay Leaf Tree
Leaves may be harvested at any time but the best flavor can be had from larger, mature leaves. Lay the leaves out to dry and crush them or use them whole but remove before eating. The leaves are a common ingredient in the French seasoning packet, bouquet garni, which is wrapped in cheesecloth and steeped in soups and sauces. It is worth learning how to grow a bay leaf tree for ornamentation and fresh wholesome seasoning.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
You’ve probably heard all the buzz about Bacopa and its restorative properties on TV shows like Dr. Oz. Calming nerves and assisting in a peaceful sleep, we might all benefit from learning how to grow a Bacopa plant (Sutera cordata). In addition to the calming effects, growing Bacopa plants adds perky color and finely textured foliage to the garden bed or nearby hanging basket. Let’s find out how to grow a Bacopa plant.
Bacopa Plant Info
Growing Bacopa trailing annual is simple, with many uses in the sunny to part shade garden. Bacopa plant info indicates that the small plant reaches no more than 6-12 inches in maturity. The low-growing specimen spreads vigorously to cascade over a wall or quickly cover bare spots under taller plants.
The happy Bacopa trailing annual is often covered with tiny flowers from June through October. Flowers are in shades of white, pink, lavender, blue and even coral red. The cultivar ‘Giant Snowflake’ has larger, white flowers and reaches just 3 to 6 inches in height and is one of the original varieties of Bacopa trailing annual. When growing Bacopa plants, experiment with different varieties of the hybrids. ‘Cabana’ is a newer white-flowering form of the plant that is more compact. ‘Olympic Gold’ also has white flowers with variegated leaves of gold and green that requires a more shaded spot. Bacopa plant info says white flowering varieties offer the most long-lasting bloom. Also, when shopping for Bacopa plants, look for the name Sutera on plant labels.
How Do You Care for Bacopa?
Growing Bacopa plants is most easily done in containers. This allows for the consistent moisture necessary to avoid the interruption of flowering. Use Bacopa trailing annual as a filler plant in mixed containers and hanging baskets. Grow Bacopa trailing annual in a full sun to part shade location. Bacopa plant info on how to grow a Bacopa plant advises growing the plant where afternoon shade is available in the hottest areas.
The tender annual is sometimes bothered by aphids, which can be dispersed with a strong blast of water from the sprayer. If aphids persist on new growth, treat them with a soapy spray or insecticidal soap. Neem oil is also beneficial. Now that you’ve learned the basics of how do you care for Bacopa and the many uses for the diminutive, spreading plant, add some to your garden this year.
Bacopa Plant Info
Growing Bacopa trailing annual is simple, with many uses in the sunny to part shade garden. Bacopa plant info indicates that the small plant reaches no more than 6-12 inches in maturity. The low-growing specimen spreads vigorously to cascade over a wall or quickly cover bare spots under taller plants.
The happy Bacopa trailing annual is often covered with tiny flowers from June through October. Flowers are in shades of white, pink, lavender, blue and even coral red. The cultivar ‘Giant Snowflake’ has larger, white flowers and reaches just 3 to 6 inches in height and is one of the original varieties of Bacopa trailing annual. When growing Bacopa plants, experiment with different varieties of the hybrids. ‘Cabana’ is a newer white-flowering form of the plant that is more compact. ‘Olympic Gold’ also has white flowers with variegated leaves of gold and green that requires a more shaded spot. Bacopa plant info says white flowering varieties offer the most long-lasting bloom. Also, when shopping for Bacopa plants, look for the name Sutera on plant labels.
How Do You Care for Bacopa?
Growing Bacopa plants is most easily done in containers. This allows for the consistent moisture necessary to avoid the interruption of flowering. Use Bacopa trailing annual as a filler plant in mixed containers and hanging baskets. Grow Bacopa trailing annual in a full sun to part shade location. Bacopa plant info on how to grow a Bacopa plant advises growing the plant where afternoon shade is available in the hottest areas.
The tender annual is sometimes bothered by aphids, which can be dispersed with a strong blast of water from the sprayer. If aphids persist on new growth, treat them with a soapy spray or insecticidal soap. Neem oil is also beneficial. Now that you’ve learned the basics of how do you care for Bacopa and the many uses for the diminutive, spreading plant, add some to your garden this year.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
While often sold as a flowering perennial, yarrow plant (Achillea millefolium) is actually an herb. Whether you decide to grow yarrow in your flower beds or in your herb garden, it’s still a lovely addition to your yard. Yarrow care is so easy that the plant is virtually care-free. Let’s take a look at how to plant yarrow and also tips for how to grow yarrow.
How to Plant Yarrow
Yarrow is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart if you’re planting more than one yarrow plant.
You can also start your yarrow herb from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the yarrow seeds in a sunny and warm location. The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted. Regardless of whether your yarrow plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrow plant will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil. Some caution should be taken when growing yarrow, as in the right conditions, it can become invasive and will then be in need of control.
How to Grow Yarrow
Once you have planted your yarrow, it needs little care. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and only needs to be watered during times of severe drought. While yarrow needs little care, it is susceptible to a few diseases and pests. Most commonly, plants will be affected by either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. These will both appear as a white powdery covering on the leaves. Both can be treated with a fungicide. Yarrow plants are also occasionally affected by spittlebugs.
Using Yarrow Herb
Yarrow has many uses as an herb. It is commonly used as a medicinal herb that can treat the bleeding of minor wounds, swollen or cramping muscles, reducing fever or to help with relaxing. As with any medicinal herb, yarrow herb should not be taken without first consulting a physician. On the non-medicinal side, yarrow herb is an astringent and makes a good facial wash or shampoo. Whether you grow yarrow as a decorative plant or an herb, you can be sure that it will add beauty to your garden. Since yarrow care is so easy, you have nothing to lose by giving this ancient herb a small place in one of your flower beds.
How to Plant Yarrow
Yarrow is most often propagated by division, so chances are you’ll buy your yarrow as a plant. Space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart if you’re planting more than one yarrow plant.
You can also start your yarrow herb from seed. Start seeds indoors about six to eight weeks before your last frost date. Sow the seeds in moist, normal potting soil. The seeds should just barely be covered by the potting soil. Place the pot with the yarrow seeds in a sunny and warm location. The seeds should germinate in 14 to 21 days, depending on the conditions. You can speed up the germination by covering the top of the pot with plastic wrap to keep in moisture and heat. Remove the plastic wrap once the seeds have sprouted. Regardless of whether your yarrow plants are grown from seed or bought as full plants, you will want to plant them in full sun. They thrive in a wide variety of soils but do best in well drained soil. Yarrow plant will even grow in very poor dry soils with low fertility soil. Some caution should be taken when growing yarrow, as in the right conditions, it can become invasive and will then be in need of control.
How to Grow Yarrow
Once you have planted your yarrow, it needs little care. It doesn’t need to be fertilized and only needs to be watered during times of severe drought. While yarrow needs little care, it is susceptible to a few diseases and pests. Most commonly, plants will be affected by either botrytis mold or powdery mildew. These will both appear as a white powdery covering on the leaves. Both can be treated with a fungicide. Yarrow plants are also occasionally affected by spittlebugs.
Using Yarrow Herb
Yarrow has many uses as an herb. It is commonly used as a medicinal herb that can treat the bleeding of minor wounds, swollen or cramping muscles, reducing fever or to help with relaxing. As with any medicinal herb, yarrow herb should not be taken without first consulting a physician. On the non-medicinal side, yarrow herb is an astringent and makes a good facial wash or shampoo. Whether you grow yarrow as a decorative plant or an herb, you can be sure that it will add beauty to your garden. Since yarrow care is so easy, you have nothing to lose by giving this ancient herb a small place in one of your flower beds.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Valerian (Valeriana officinalis) is an herb that’s been used in traditional medicine for centuries and is still known for its calming effects even today. It’s very tough and easy to grow, earning it a place in plenty of medicinal and ornamental gardens. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow valerian plants.
How to Grow Valerian Plants
What is valerian? It’s a hardy perennial native to Eurasia. It’s very cold tolerant and thrives in USDA zones 4 through 9. A valerian herb plant will die back to the ground in the winter, but the roots should be fine and will put up new growth in the spring. It will grow in a wide variety of conditions, from full to sun to partial shade and in any well-draining soil. It does, however, like to be kept moist. As part of valerian herb plant care, you’ll need to water it frequently and cover it with mulch to help retain moisture.
Also, a valerian herb plant will self-seed very readily. If you don’t want your plants to spread, remove the flowers before they have a chance to develop and drop seeds. Growing valerian herbs is very easy. The seeds can be sown directly in the ground after all chance of frost has passed, or they can be started indoors several weeks earlier and then transplanted outside.
The plants grow to between 3 and 5 feet in height and produce white, faintly scented flowers. The roots are used for their calming properties when eaten or brewed into tea. Harvest the roots in the fall by watering the plant, then digging the whole thing up. Wash the soil from the roots, then dry them in the oven at 200 degrees F. (93 C.) with the door open a crack. The roots may take two growing seasons to be large enough to harvest.
How to Grow Valerian Plants
What is valerian? It’s a hardy perennial native to Eurasia. It’s very cold tolerant and thrives in USDA zones 4 through 9. A valerian herb plant will die back to the ground in the winter, but the roots should be fine and will put up new growth in the spring. It will grow in a wide variety of conditions, from full to sun to partial shade and in any well-draining soil. It does, however, like to be kept moist. As part of valerian herb plant care, you’ll need to water it frequently and cover it with mulch to help retain moisture.
Also, a valerian herb plant will self-seed very readily. If you don’t want your plants to spread, remove the flowers before they have a chance to develop and drop seeds. Growing valerian herbs is very easy. The seeds can be sown directly in the ground after all chance of frost has passed, or they can be started indoors several weeks earlier and then transplanted outside.
The plants grow to between 3 and 5 feet in height and produce white, faintly scented flowers. The roots are used for their calming properties when eaten or brewed into tea. Harvest the roots in the fall by watering the plant, then digging the whole thing up. Wash the soil from the roots, then dry them in the oven at 200 degrees F. (93 C.) with the door open a crack. The roots may take two growing seasons to be large enough to harvest.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Any time is a good time to grow thyme. It’s true. There are over 300 thyme varieties in the mint family of Lamiaceae, of which thyme is a member. All have been prized for centuries for their fragrance, flavor and ornamental habitat. With this dizzying array of thyme varieties, there is a possible specimen for nearly every climate and landscape. Keep reading about the types of thyme plants you can grow.
How to Care for Different Types of Thyme
Most thyme varieties are hardy in USDA zones 5-9 but tend to dislike hot, humid summers or overly wet conditions. Also, most varieties of thyme prefer full sun and well drained soil. With a little research and even with adverse conditions, however, there are sure to be various types of thyme plants that are suitable for growth in those areas.
Avoid fertilizing thyme varieties as they tend to become leggy and weak. Types of thyme plants cultivated for culinary use should be replaced every three years or so to prevent woody stems and promote the desirable tender leaf production. Most varieties of thyme are susceptible to overwatering, and many varieties of thyme tolerate or even thrive amid moderate to severe pruning. All varieties of thyme are easy to propagate via cuttings, division and seed and with their low growing habit (less than 15 inches tall), this semi-evergreen is appropriate for ground cover or for growing in an herb garden, window box or pots. Many thyme varieties have a lovely spreading habit and will also look wonderful peeking between pavers or stones in a patio or walkway or in a rocky wall while being tolerant of foot traffic. Others have a more upright growth pattern and do well as stand-alone specimens in the garden or in pots, either alone or mixed with other plants or herbs.
Uses for Different Types of Thyme
Highly aromatic with tiny leaves and tubular-shaped flowers forming in dense groups, all different types of thyme are attractive to bees and the honey made from bees who dine on thyme blooms rivals that of the finest lavender honey. Of course, thyme varieties are sought for cooking and used classically in “boquet garni” in stews, soups, meat, fish, compound butter, eggs, dressings, and vegetable dishes. Thyme pairs exquisitely with lemon, garlic, and basil and can be used either fresh or dried in any of the above or put sprigs in oil or vinegar to infuse the flavor. The essential oil of many varieties of thyme plants are used in colognes, soaps, lotions and even candles. Dried thyme is lovely in sachets. Thyme leaves may be harvested either before or after blooming and is one of the few herbs where using dried or fresh seems to matter little in the flavoring of foods. However, it is slow to release its oils, so add it earlier in the cooking process.
Types of Thyme Plants
While there are a plethora of thyme varieties, here is a list of some of the most common:
Common thyme (T. vulgaris) – prostrate form, yellow and variegated foliage available, used in cooking.
Lemon thyme (T. x. citriodorus) – upright form, golden and variegated silver foliage available, strong lemon scent.
Woolly thyme (T. pseudolanuginosus) – prostrate form, pubescent stems and leaves appear gray in color, good for rock gardens.
Creeping thyme (T. praecox) – sometimes called mother-of-thyme, is mat-forming, grows only two to three inches tall, mauve, white, and crimson flowering cultivars available.
Wild thyme (T. serpyllum) – prostrate and upright forms, cultivars provide flower colors ranging from red to purple, foliage can be green, gold, or variegated.
Wild thyme (T. serpyllum) – prostrate and upright forms, cultivars provide flower colors ranging from red to purple, foliage can be green, gold, or variegated.
Elfin thyme (T. serpyllum ‘Elfin’) – creeping variety no more than 1-2 inches high with fragrant leaves and tiny purple or pink flowers, good for rock gardens and in between pavers or bricks.And the list goes on: Red Compact, Lime thyme, Lemon Frost thyme, Pennsylvania Dutch Tea thyme (yes, good for tea), Orange Balsam thyme, Caraway thyme (redolent of caraway), Pink Chintz or Reiter Creeping thyme. Go to your local nursery and inquire what thyme varieties are recommended in your area, then play around with their texture and growth habit to create interesting niches in your home garden.
How to Care for Different Types of Thyme
Most thyme varieties are hardy in USDA zones 5-9 but tend to dislike hot, humid summers or overly wet conditions. Also, most varieties of thyme prefer full sun and well drained soil. With a little research and even with adverse conditions, however, there are sure to be various types of thyme plants that are suitable for growth in those areas.
Avoid fertilizing thyme varieties as they tend to become leggy and weak. Types of thyme plants cultivated for culinary use should be replaced every three years or so to prevent woody stems and promote the desirable tender leaf production. Most varieties of thyme are susceptible to overwatering, and many varieties of thyme tolerate or even thrive amid moderate to severe pruning. All varieties of thyme are easy to propagate via cuttings, division and seed and with their low growing habit (less than 15 inches tall), this semi-evergreen is appropriate for ground cover or for growing in an herb garden, window box or pots. Many thyme varieties have a lovely spreading habit and will also look wonderful peeking between pavers or stones in a patio or walkway or in a rocky wall while being tolerant of foot traffic. Others have a more upright growth pattern and do well as stand-alone specimens in the garden or in pots, either alone or mixed with other plants or herbs.
Uses for Different Types of Thyme
Highly aromatic with tiny leaves and tubular-shaped flowers forming in dense groups, all different types of thyme are attractive to bees and the honey made from bees who dine on thyme blooms rivals that of the finest lavender honey. Of course, thyme varieties are sought for cooking and used classically in “boquet garni” in stews, soups, meat, fish, compound butter, eggs, dressings, and vegetable dishes. Thyme pairs exquisitely with lemon, garlic, and basil and can be used either fresh or dried in any of the above or put sprigs in oil or vinegar to infuse the flavor. The essential oil of many varieties of thyme plants are used in colognes, soaps, lotions and even candles. Dried thyme is lovely in sachets. Thyme leaves may be harvested either before or after blooming and is one of the few herbs where using dried or fresh seems to matter little in the flavoring of foods. However, it is slow to release its oils, so add it earlier in the cooking process.
Types of Thyme Plants
While there are a plethora of thyme varieties, here is a list of some of the most common:
Common thyme (T. vulgaris) – prostrate form, yellow and variegated foliage available, used in cooking.
Lemon thyme (T. x. citriodorus) – upright form, golden and variegated silver foliage available, strong lemon scent.
Woolly thyme (T. pseudolanuginosus) – prostrate form, pubescent stems and leaves appear gray in color, good for rock gardens.
Creeping thyme (T. praecox) – sometimes called mother-of-thyme, is mat-forming, grows only two to three inches tall, mauve, white, and crimson flowering cultivars available.
Wild thyme (T. serpyllum) – prostrate and upright forms, cultivars provide flower colors ranging from red to purple, foliage can be green, gold, or variegated.
Wild thyme (T. serpyllum) – prostrate and upright forms, cultivars provide flower colors ranging from red to purple, foliage can be green, gold, or variegated.
Elfin thyme (T. serpyllum ‘Elfin’) – creeping variety no more than 1-2 inches high with fragrant leaves and tiny purple or pink flowers, good for rock gardens and in between pavers or bricks.And the list goes on: Red Compact, Lime thyme, Lemon Frost thyme, Pennsylvania Dutch Tea thyme (yes, good for tea), Orange Balsam thyme, Caraway thyme (redolent of caraway), Pink Chintz or Reiter Creeping thyme. Go to your local nursery and inquire what thyme varieties are recommended in your area, then play around with their texture and growth habit to create interesting niches in your home garden.
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