文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Ginger plant (Zingiber officinale) may seem like a mysterious herb to grow. The knobby ginger root is found in grocery stores but very rarely do you find it in your local nursery. So can you grow ginger at home? The answer is yes, you can. Not only is growing ginger plants possible, it is easy as well. Let’s take a look at how to grow ginger root in your garden.
How to Grow Ginger Root
Planting ginger starts with finding some ginger root to plant. You can find a ginger root dealer online, but just as easily you can head to your local grocery store and buy a ginger root right out of the produce section for growing ginger plants. Choose a healthy, plump looking ginger root that is about 4 to 5 inches long with at least a few “fingers.” If possible, find a ginger root where the tips of the fingers are greenish.
Ginger plants take 10 months to mature. If you live in USDA zone 7 or higher, you can grow ginger root in the ground (though in all zones but zone 10, the leaves will die in the winter). If you live in zone 6 or lower, you’ll need to bring your ginger plant in for the winter, which means you will need to plant the ginger root in a pot. Next, you will need to select a place to grow your ginger plant. Ginger root grows in part to full shade and likes rich, loose soil. If you’ll be planting ginger in the ground, it’s a good idea to add lots of compost or rotted manure to the chosen spot. If you will be growing ginger in containers, using potting soil is a must.
Plant your ginger root in the early spring, after all chances of frost have passed. The next step in growing ginger plants is to break or cut off a finger and make sure the section is at least 1 to 2 inches long as has at least one of the buds (looks like a rounded point) on it. To help prevent rot in the ginger root, allow the cut pieces to dry for a day or two in a warm, dry place before putting them in the ground. Plant the ginger sections in a shallow trench. You shouldn’t be planting the ginger root sections any deeper than 1 inch. You may find as your ginger plant grows that the root pushes back up through the top of the soil. This is okay and it’s common for the plant to have roots above soil. Plant one ginger plant per square foot. Once the ginger root is planted, water it thoroughly. In a week or two you’ll see the leaves of the ginger plant emerge. Once the leaves emerge, water sparingly, but when you water the ginger root plant, water it deeply. The leaves on the ginger plant will get to be up to 4 feet tall and are susceptible to wind damage. If you live in an area where ginger will not survive the winter, bring your ginger plant inside once night time temperatures dip below 50 F. (10 C.). Continue to care for your plant over the winter.
How to Harvest Ginger
Your ginger plant will be ready for harvest in the spring, or you can let it grow through the next summer for a larger harvest. When you’re ready to harvest, lift the ginger plant gently from the soil. If you’d like to continue to grow ginger root, break off a part of the ginger root that has foliage and carefully replant it. The rest of the ginger root can be used as your harvest. Break off the foliage and wash the ginger root. The ginger root can be broken into smaller pieces for easier use. Now that you know how to grow ginger root, you can enjoy its amazing flavor in your favorite recipes.
How to Grow Ginger Root
Planting ginger starts with finding some ginger root to plant. You can find a ginger root dealer online, but just as easily you can head to your local grocery store and buy a ginger root right out of the produce section for growing ginger plants. Choose a healthy, plump looking ginger root that is about 4 to 5 inches long with at least a few “fingers.” If possible, find a ginger root where the tips of the fingers are greenish.
Ginger plants take 10 months to mature. If you live in USDA zone 7 or higher, you can grow ginger root in the ground (though in all zones but zone 10, the leaves will die in the winter). If you live in zone 6 or lower, you’ll need to bring your ginger plant in for the winter, which means you will need to plant the ginger root in a pot. Next, you will need to select a place to grow your ginger plant. Ginger root grows in part to full shade and likes rich, loose soil. If you’ll be planting ginger in the ground, it’s a good idea to add lots of compost or rotted manure to the chosen spot. If you will be growing ginger in containers, using potting soil is a must.
Plant your ginger root in the early spring, after all chances of frost have passed. The next step in growing ginger plants is to break or cut off a finger and make sure the section is at least 1 to 2 inches long as has at least one of the buds (looks like a rounded point) on it. To help prevent rot in the ginger root, allow the cut pieces to dry for a day or two in a warm, dry place before putting them in the ground. Plant the ginger sections in a shallow trench. You shouldn’t be planting the ginger root sections any deeper than 1 inch. You may find as your ginger plant grows that the root pushes back up through the top of the soil. This is okay and it’s common for the plant to have roots above soil. Plant one ginger plant per square foot. Once the ginger root is planted, water it thoroughly. In a week or two you’ll see the leaves of the ginger plant emerge. Once the leaves emerge, water sparingly, but when you water the ginger root plant, water it deeply. The leaves on the ginger plant will get to be up to 4 feet tall and are susceptible to wind damage. If you live in an area where ginger will not survive the winter, bring your ginger plant inside once night time temperatures dip below 50 F. (10 C.). Continue to care for your plant over the winter.
How to Harvest Ginger
Your ginger plant will be ready for harvest in the spring, or you can let it grow through the next summer for a larger harvest. When you’re ready to harvest, lift the ginger plant gently from the soil. If you’d like to continue to grow ginger root, break off a part of the ginger root that has foliage and carefully replant it. The rest of the ginger root can be used as your harvest. Break off the foliage and wash the ginger root. The ginger root can be broken into smaller pieces for easier use. Now that you know how to grow ginger root, you can enjoy its amazing flavor in your favorite recipes.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
We freely admit that it may be a little odd to have an article about how to grow dandelions. After all, most gardeners consider dandelions a weed and are looking for information on how to remove it from their garden. But, once you get to know a little more about this nutritious plant, you may find yourself also wondering how to grow and harvest dandelion plants for yourself.
Why You Should Be Growing Dandelion Greens
While dandelions can be a nuisance in the lawn, they are also a surprising source of nutrients. Dandelion greens contain vitamin C, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, thiamin, riboflavin, beta carotene and fiber. They are actually more nutritious than most of the fruits and vegetables you can buy in the grocery store. It is also touted as being beneficial to your liver, kidneys, blood and digestion. Not to mention that it supposedly helps with acne, weight-loss, blood pressure and cholesterol levels. It is nearly a perfect food.
How to Grow Dandelions
At a very basic level, you don’t need to do much to grow dandelions. Chances are there is a whole yard full of them near where you live, perhaps even right outside your door, but it’s likely that the dandelion plants growing in your lawn are Common Dandelion (Taraxacum Officinale subsp. vulgare). This is the most common variety of dandelion, but there are thousands of varieties and cultivars to be found around the world. Common Dandelion has all the health benefits mentioned above, but they tend to be a bit more bitter than some of the other varieties of dandelion you can buy.
Some “gourmet” varieties of dandelion include:
Amélioré à Coeur Plein Dandelion
Pissenlit Coeur Plein Ameliore Dandelion
Improved Broad Leaved Dandelion
Arlington Dandelion
Improved Thick-Leaved Dandelion a.k.a Dandelion Ameliore
Dandelions are by nature a very bitter green, but there are steps you can take to reduce how bitter it is. First, grow a less bitter variety such as the ones listed above. The right variety can make dandelion greens taste much better than the wild variety growing in your yard. Second, try growing dandelions in the shade. This will blanch the leaves some and will result in a less bitter leaf. Alternately, you can manually blanch the dandelion leaves by covering the plants a few days before you are ready to harvest. The third thing you can do to reduce bitterness is to harvest dandelion leaves early. Young leaves will be less bitter than more mature leaves. You can keep your dandelions from becoming invasive in your yard by either choosing a less invasive variety (yes, they exist) or by making sure that the plant never goes to seed and therefore cannot spread its seeds throughout the neighborhood.Harvesting Dandelions
Much like other greens, dandelions can be harvested either as a “head” by removing the entire plant when mature (starting to flower) at harvest or as a leaf, which means that you would remove only some of the young leaves or the whole head when the plant is still young. Both ways are acceptable and which you choose will be based on your preference. Another benefit of growing dandelions is the fact that it is a perennial. After you harvest the plant it will grow back the same season, year after year. Never harvest dandelions from a location that is near a road or has been treated with pesticides or other chemicals.
Why You Should Be Growing Dandelion Greens
While dandelions can be a nuisance in the lawn, they are also a surprising source of nutrients. Dandelion greens contain vitamin C, potassium, calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, thiamin, riboflavin, beta carotene and fiber. They are actually more nutritious than most of the fruits and vegetables you can buy in the grocery store. It is also touted as being beneficial to your liver, kidneys, blood and digestion. Not to mention that it supposedly helps with acne, weight-loss, blood pressure and cholesterol levels. It is nearly a perfect food.
How to Grow Dandelions
At a very basic level, you don’t need to do much to grow dandelions. Chances are there is a whole yard full of them near where you live, perhaps even right outside your door, but it’s likely that the dandelion plants growing in your lawn are Common Dandelion (Taraxacum Officinale subsp. vulgare). This is the most common variety of dandelion, but there are thousands of varieties and cultivars to be found around the world. Common Dandelion has all the health benefits mentioned above, but they tend to be a bit more bitter than some of the other varieties of dandelion you can buy.
Some “gourmet” varieties of dandelion include:
Amélioré à Coeur Plein Dandelion
Pissenlit Coeur Plein Ameliore Dandelion
Improved Broad Leaved Dandelion
Arlington Dandelion
Improved Thick-Leaved Dandelion a.k.a Dandelion Ameliore
Dandelions are by nature a very bitter green, but there are steps you can take to reduce how bitter it is. First, grow a less bitter variety such as the ones listed above. The right variety can make dandelion greens taste much better than the wild variety growing in your yard. Second, try growing dandelions in the shade. This will blanch the leaves some and will result in a less bitter leaf. Alternately, you can manually blanch the dandelion leaves by covering the plants a few days before you are ready to harvest. The third thing you can do to reduce bitterness is to harvest dandelion leaves early. Young leaves will be less bitter than more mature leaves. You can keep your dandelions from becoming invasive in your yard by either choosing a less invasive variety (yes, they exist) or by making sure that the plant never goes to seed and therefore cannot spread its seeds throughout the neighborhood.Harvesting Dandelions
Much like other greens, dandelions can be harvested either as a “head” by removing the entire plant when mature (starting to flower) at harvest or as a leaf, which means that you would remove only some of the young leaves or the whole head when the plant is still young. Both ways are acceptable and which you choose will be based on your preference. Another benefit of growing dandelions is the fact that it is a perennial. After you harvest the plant it will grow back the same season, year after year. Never harvest dandelions from a location that is near a road or has been treated with pesticides or other chemicals.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Succulents are easy to grow, attractive and aromatic. Such is the case with Cuban oregano. What is Cuban oregano? It is a succulent in the Lamiaceae family, also known as Spanish thyme, Indian borage and Mexican mint. It is not a true oregano in the family, Origanum, but has a scent characteristic of the true oreganos. There are numerous culinary and traditional Cuban oregano uses. Once you know how to grow Cuban oregano, try this lively little plant in containers, a well-drained, partially sunny area of the garden or in trailing baskets.
What is Cuban Oregano?
Plectranthus amboinicus is a perennial succulent with aromatic foliage. It is often grown as a houseplant but can thrive outdoors in warm season regions or in summer. Leaves contain pungent oils, which can be harnessed for cooking.
The flavor of Cuban oregano is said to be much stronger than Greek oregano, the herb most frequently used to flavor pizzas and other Mediterranean dishes. Harvesting Cuban oregano and using it in recipes can provide similar flavor to traditional oreganos but should be used in more moderate amounts to avoid over-seasoning the dish. Cuban oregano is a member of the mint or deadnettle family. As such, it has characteristic thick, fuzzy leaves with a strong pleasing odor. Leaves are grayish green and finely haired and saw-toothed at the edges. Flowers are borne in panicles and may be white, pink, or lavender. Plants grow between 12 and 18 inches tall and may develop a trailing habit, making it attractive in hanging baskets. As an in-ground plant, it will spread to a small mounded ground cover. Cuban oregano growing requirements are somewhat different than traditional oreganos, as they may burn in full sun and perform better in some light shade.
How to Grow Cuban Oregano
Choose a site with well-draining, gritty soil in partial sun for this little plant. It is frost tender but does well in tropical to semi-tropical areas year around. In temperate regions, grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors in fall. Cuban oregano does most of its growth in spring and summer and prefers hot, dry conditions. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t need water, however. The plant needs regular irrigation but cannot survive consistently wet roots, which makes drainage especially important. Growing plants in containers makes it easier to accommodate Cuban oregano growing requirements by moving it as the seasonal sun gets hotter in certain areas of the garden. Some noon-day shade is required to prevent leaves from burning and ruining their appearance.
Cuban Oregano Uses
Cuban oregano leaves can be used just like regular oreganos. Harvesting Cuban oregano leaves for traditional medicinal purposes can be traced back centuries. It was useful in treatment of respiratory and throat infections as well as rheumatism, constipation, flatulence and as an aid to stimulate lactation. Modern applications use it as a substitute for Mediterranean oreganos, either dried or fresh. The leaves may be dried and crushed to add to meat dishes. Fresh leaves, in small amounts, are used in soups and stews, and in stuffing for poultry and other meat. Be cautious, as the plant is very strongly flavored and can overpower other seasonings. This little plant has attractive foliage, the blooms attract pollinators and its use in the kitchen adds another tool to your culinary prowess.
What is Cuban Oregano?
Plectranthus amboinicus is a perennial succulent with aromatic foliage. It is often grown as a houseplant but can thrive outdoors in warm season regions or in summer. Leaves contain pungent oils, which can be harnessed for cooking.
The flavor of Cuban oregano is said to be much stronger than Greek oregano, the herb most frequently used to flavor pizzas and other Mediterranean dishes. Harvesting Cuban oregano and using it in recipes can provide similar flavor to traditional oreganos but should be used in more moderate amounts to avoid over-seasoning the dish. Cuban oregano is a member of the mint or deadnettle family. As such, it has characteristic thick, fuzzy leaves with a strong pleasing odor. Leaves are grayish green and finely haired and saw-toothed at the edges. Flowers are borne in panicles and may be white, pink, or lavender. Plants grow between 12 and 18 inches tall and may develop a trailing habit, making it attractive in hanging baskets. As an in-ground plant, it will spread to a small mounded ground cover. Cuban oregano growing requirements are somewhat different than traditional oreganos, as they may burn in full sun and perform better in some light shade.
How to Grow Cuban Oregano
Choose a site with well-draining, gritty soil in partial sun for this little plant. It is frost tender but does well in tropical to semi-tropical areas year around. In temperate regions, grow the plant in a container and bring it indoors in fall. Cuban oregano does most of its growth in spring and summer and prefers hot, dry conditions. That doesn’t mean it doesn’t need water, however. The plant needs regular irrigation but cannot survive consistently wet roots, which makes drainage especially important. Growing plants in containers makes it easier to accommodate Cuban oregano growing requirements by moving it as the seasonal sun gets hotter in certain areas of the garden. Some noon-day shade is required to prevent leaves from burning and ruining their appearance.
Cuban Oregano Uses
Cuban oregano leaves can be used just like regular oreganos. Harvesting Cuban oregano leaves for traditional medicinal purposes can be traced back centuries. It was useful in treatment of respiratory and throat infections as well as rheumatism, constipation, flatulence and as an aid to stimulate lactation. Modern applications use it as a substitute for Mediterranean oreganos, either dried or fresh. The leaves may be dried and crushed to add to meat dishes. Fresh leaves, in small amounts, are used in soups and stews, and in stuffing for poultry and other meat. Be cautious, as the plant is very strongly flavored and can overpower other seasonings. This little plant has attractive foliage, the blooms attract pollinators and its use in the kitchen adds another tool to your culinary prowess.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Cilantro bolting is one of the most frustrating things about this popular herb. Many gardeners ask, “Why does cilantro bolt?” and “How can I keep cilantro from flowering?” With attention to the environment you grow cilantro in, you can help lengthen the amount of time before cilantro will bolt and, therefore, increase the amount of time you can harvest leaves from your cilantro plants.
What to Do When Cilantro Bolts
Many gardeners wonder what to do when cilantro bolts. When they see the white cilantro flowers, they wonder if they can simply cut them off. Unfortunately, once cilantro bolts, the leaves rapidly lose their flavor. Cutting the cilantro flowers off won’t bring the flavor back to the leaves. Instead, go ahead and let the cilantro flowers go to seed. The seeds of the cilantro plant are the spice coriander and can be used in Asian, Indian, Mexican and many other ethnic recipes.
Why Does Cilantro Bolt?
Cilantro grows best in cool, moist conditions and will bolt rapidly in hot weather. This a survival mechanism for the cilantro plant. The plant knows that it will die in hot weather and will try to produce seeds as quickly as possible to ensure that the next generation of cilantro will survive and grow.
How to Keep Cilantro from Bolting
The first thing to understand is that there is no true way to keep cilantro from bolting. Plants are designed to do one thing and that is to reproduce. You are fighting nature. But there are several things you can do to significantly lengthen the time before the cilantro plant produces flowers.
First, if you live in a climate that doesn’t have moist, cool weather, you can buy slow-bolt cilantro. This is cilantro that has been bred to withstand higher temperatures. Second, no matter what kind of cilantro you grow, you should practice succession planting. This is where you plant new seeds every one to two weeks so that as one set of cilantro plantings start to bolt, the next set will be ready to harvest. Third, plant cilantro to grow during cool weather. Early spring, late summer and early fall are the best times to plant cilantro. If you plant in late spring to mid summer, your cilantro will bolt quickly in the heat. Fourth, harvest your cilantro leaves frequently. The more you harvest your cilantro, the more likely you are to nip immature flowering stalks which will delay cilantro flowering. Fifth, mulch cilantro and plant it tightly. It isn’t the heat of the air that causes cilantro to bolt, but rather the heat of the soil. Mulch will help keep the soil cool and retain moisture. Planting cilantro tightly will shade the ground it grows in, which also helps to keep the soil cooler.
What to Do When Cilantro Bolts
Many gardeners wonder what to do when cilantro bolts. When they see the white cilantro flowers, they wonder if they can simply cut them off. Unfortunately, once cilantro bolts, the leaves rapidly lose their flavor. Cutting the cilantro flowers off won’t bring the flavor back to the leaves. Instead, go ahead and let the cilantro flowers go to seed. The seeds of the cilantro plant are the spice coriander and can be used in Asian, Indian, Mexican and many other ethnic recipes.
Why Does Cilantro Bolt?
Cilantro grows best in cool, moist conditions and will bolt rapidly in hot weather. This a survival mechanism for the cilantro plant. The plant knows that it will die in hot weather and will try to produce seeds as quickly as possible to ensure that the next generation of cilantro will survive and grow.
How to Keep Cilantro from Bolting
The first thing to understand is that there is no true way to keep cilantro from bolting. Plants are designed to do one thing and that is to reproduce. You are fighting nature. But there are several things you can do to significantly lengthen the time before the cilantro plant produces flowers.
First, if you live in a climate that doesn’t have moist, cool weather, you can buy slow-bolt cilantro. This is cilantro that has been bred to withstand higher temperatures. Second, no matter what kind of cilantro you grow, you should practice succession planting. This is where you plant new seeds every one to two weeks so that as one set of cilantro plantings start to bolt, the next set will be ready to harvest. Third, plant cilantro to grow during cool weather. Early spring, late summer and early fall are the best times to plant cilantro. If you plant in late spring to mid summer, your cilantro will bolt quickly in the heat. Fourth, harvest your cilantro leaves frequently. The more you harvest your cilantro, the more likely you are to nip immature flowering stalks which will delay cilantro flowering. Fifth, mulch cilantro and plant it tightly. It isn’t the heat of the air that causes cilantro to bolt, but rather the heat of the soil. Mulch will help keep the soil cool and retain moisture. Planting cilantro tightly will shade the ground it grows in, which also helps to keep the soil cooler.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Chervil is one of the lesser known herbs that you can grow in your garden. Because it is not often grown, many people wonder, “What is chervil?” Let’s take a look at the chervil herb, how to keep chervil growing in your garden and how to use chervil.
What is Chervil Herb?
Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) is an annual herb that is best known for being a “sweet” herb. Many people grow chervil to be used in desserts and drinks. The flavor is often described as a combination of parsley and licorice. The chervil herb is also known as gourmet parsley or French parsley.
Best Conditions to Grow Chervil
Chervil is one of the few herbs that grows best in shade and moist soil. Much like cilantro, chervil will bolt quickly in heat, so keep it away from full sun. Chervil also prefers rich soil.
Start Chervil Growing from Seed
Chervil is a delicate plant and does not like to be disturbed once it starts growing. Because of this, chervil should be sown directly where it will be growing in the garden. The best time when to plant chervil is after all threat of frost has passed. Chervil herb can tolerate some frost, but grows best in the cool season right after frost has passed.
To keep chervil growing consistently, you’ll need to do successive plantings. As you grow chervil, start new seeds about every two weeks to ensure continuous harvest until the end of the season. We hope that now that you know what is chervil and when to plant chervil, you will start growing chervil in your garden. You will be tastily rewarded.
What is Chervil Herb?
Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium) is an annual herb that is best known for being a “sweet” herb. Many people grow chervil to be used in desserts and drinks. The flavor is often described as a combination of parsley and licorice. The chervil herb is also known as gourmet parsley or French parsley.
Best Conditions to Grow Chervil
Chervil is one of the few herbs that grows best in shade and moist soil. Much like cilantro, chervil will bolt quickly in heat, so keep it away from full sun. Chervil also prefers rich soil.
Start Chervil Growing from Seed
Chervil is a delicate plant and does not like to be disturbed once it starts growing. Because of this, chervil should be sown directly where it will be growing in the garden. The best time when to plant chervil is after all threat of frost has passed. Chervil herb can tolerate some frost, but grows best in the cool season right after frost has passed.
To keep chervil growing consistently, you’ll need to do successive plantings. As you grow chervil, start new seeds about every two weeks to ensure continuous harvest until the end of the season. We hope that now that you know what is chervil and when to plant chervil, you will start growing chervil in your garden. You will be tastily rewarded.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Burdock weeds are troublesome plants that grow in pastures, along ditches and roadsides and in many other disturbed areas across the United States. The weed is recognized by its large, oval or triangular “elephant-ear” leaves. The upper surface of the dark green leaves may be smooth or hairy and the lower leaf surface is typically wooly and pale green. The plant bolts in the second year and can reach heights of 3 to 10 feet. The small flowers, which are numerous, may be lavender, white, purple or pink. Why are burdock weeds so troublesome, and why is burdock management so critical? Read on to find out how to get rid of this weed.
Reasons for Controlling Common Burdock
It’s extremely difficult to eradicate burdock. Seeds spread quickly when the seed heads dry and break, scattering thousands of seeds far and wide. The weeds also spread when the prickly burs catch a ride on passing people or animals. Some people may experience unpleasant allergic reactions when the bristles contact the skin. The burs can cause real problems for livestock, resulting in eye infections, skin problems and mouth sores. The plant can also host root rot, powdery mildew and other diseases that can spread to agricultural plants.
How to Kill Burdock
Digging, hand pulling or plowing can be effective ways of controlling common burdock when the weeds are small. These techniques don’t work well on larger plants because it’s difficult to remove the entire taproot. You can mow taller plants, but mowing must be done before the plant has bloomed or you will simply spread the seeds. A number of herbicides are useful for controlling common burdock, including dicamba, 2,4-D, picloram, glyphosate and others. Unfortunately, burdock often grows in difficult, hard-to-access areas. Manual removal is often the only recourse as well as the most environmentally friendly.
Reasons for Controlling Common Burdock
It’s extremely difficult to eradicate burdock. Seeds spread quickly when the seed heads dry and break, scattering thousands of seeds far and wide. The weeds also spread when the prickly burs catch a ride on passing people or animals. Some people may experience unpleasant allergic reactions when the bristles contact the skin. The burs can cause real problems for livestock, resulting in eye infections, skin problems and mouth sores. The plant can also host root rot, powdery mildew and other diseases that can spread to agricultural plants.
How to Kill Burdock
Digging, hand pulling or plowing can be effective ways of controlling common burdock when the weeds are small. These techniques don’t work well on larger plants because it’s difficult to remove the entire taproot. You can mow taller plants, but mowing must be done before the plant has bloomed or you will simply spread the seeds. A number of herbicides are useful for controlling common burdock, including dicamba, 2,4-D, picloram, glyphosate and others. Unfortunately, burdock often grows in difficult, hard-to-access areas. Manual removal is often the only recourse as well as the most environmentally friendly.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
You don’t need many excuses to grow borage. With its brilliant blue starry flowers and charismatic fuzzy stems, borage is an herb with tons of garden appeal. This plant has a rich history of use as an herbal remedy but you might also consider borage cover crops to enrich soil. Using borage as green manure allows the nutrients brought up by the plant’s deep taproot to be dispersed into the upper areas of soil when the plant composts. Borage returns high nitrogen to the soil when it is tilled back in. The result is healthy soil, rich in nutrients and deeply aerated earth.
Borage Cover Crops and Fertilizer
Borage is an old-fashioned herb with a history of culinary and medicinal use. Also known as starflower because of its arresting blue flowers, borage is also a great companion plant said to improve the flavor of tomatoes. Commercially, borage is grown for its oil content, but in the garden, you can use its leaves soaked in water as a fertilizer or plant masses of the herb as a living soil enricher. Borage provides a showy display for 4 to 6 months and then has a slow nitrogen release when you chop it back into the soil.
Planting a borage cover crop affords a period of spectacular beauty as the sea of deep blue blooms decorate the landscape. Once the flowers are spent, you can till in the plants, reducing them to smaller broken down pieces that will compost back into the soil. Using borage as green manure has a win-win effect with a season of beauty and a season of giving back to the earth. True, there are higher nitrogen cover crops that release more quickly when returned to the earth, but the colorful abandon of borage cover crops is a delight to behold and the gradual nitrogen release allows more nitrogen to remain for future crops while it conditions the soil and increases tilth.
How to Use Borage as a Cover Crop
Sow the seeds in March to April into a well turned bed that has been raked to remove any debris and obstacles. Seeds should be planted at 1/8 inch under soil and 6 inches apart. Keep the seed bed moderately moist until germination. You may need to thin the seedlings to allow the plants to mature. If you are in a hurry, you can till the plants into the soil before they flower or wait to enjoy the blooms and then chop the plants into the soil to release their nutrients slowly. The deep taproots and wide fibrous root zone will break apart problem soils and aerate, increasing water percolation and oxygen. Planting a borage cover crop in late summer will provide green material for nitrogen release but will not provide you with the flowers. It is still a worthwhile green manure that is easy to plant and grow.
How to Use Borage as Fertilizer
If you just simply like to have a few of the plants around for their beauty, use as a tea or for the decorative bee attracting flowers, the plants are still useful even in small numbers. These annuals can get 2- to 3-feet tall with numerous secondary branching stems and leaves. Strip leaves and place them in enough water to cover them. Put a lid on the container and let it ferment for two weeks. After the two-week period, drain out the solids and you now have an excellent fertilizer. Use borage as fertilizer weekly, diluted with water at 1 part to 10 parts water. The solution can keep for several months. And don’t forget to till in your annual borage plants no matter how many there are. Even small numbers of the plants are excellent soil conditioners, the plant equivalent of beauty and brains.
Borage Cover Crops and Fertilizer
Borage is an old-fashioned herb with a history of culinary and medicinal use. Also known as starflower because of its arresting blue flowers, borage is also a great companion plant said to improve the flavor of tomatoes. Commercially, borage is grown for its oil content, but in the garden, you can use its leaves soaked in water as a fertilizer or plant masses of the herb as a living soil enricher. Borage provides a showy display for 4 to 6 months and then has a slow nitrogen release when you chop it back into the soil.
Planting a borage cover crop affords a period of spectacular beauty as the sea of deep blue blooms decorate the landscape. Once the flowers are spent, you can till in the plants, reducing them to smaller broken down pieces that will compost back into the soil. Using borage as green manure has a win-win effect with a season of beauty and a season of giving back to the earth. True, there are higher nitrogen cover crops that release more quickly when returned to the earth, but the colorful abandon of borage cover crops is a delight to behold and the gradual nitrogen release allows more nitrogen to remain for future crops while it conditions the soil and increases tilth.
How to Use Borage as a Cover Crop
Sow the seeds in March to April into a well turned bed that has been raked to remove any debris and obstacles. Seeds should be planted at 1/8 inch under soil and 6 inches apart. Keep the seed bed moderately moist until germination. You may need to thin the seedlings to allow the plants to mature. If you are in a hurry, you can till the plants into the soil before they flower or wait to enjoy the blooms and then chop the plants into the soil to release their nutrients slowly. The deep taproots and wide fibrous root zone will break apart problem soils and aerate, increasing water percolation and oxygen. Planting a borage cover crop in late summer will provide green material for nitrogen release but will not provide you with the flowers. It is still a worthwhile green manure that is easy to plant and grow.
How to Use Borage as Fertilizer
If you just simply like to have a few of the plants around for their beauty, use as a tea or for the decorative bee attracting flowers, the plants are still useful even in small numbers. These annuals can get 2- to 3-feet tall with numerous secondary branching stems and leaves. Strip leaves and place them in enough water to cover them. Put a lid on the container and let it ferment for two weeks. After the two-week period, drain out the solids and you now have an excellent fertilizer. Use borage as fertilizer weekly, diluted with water at 1 part to 10 parts water. The solution can keep for several months. And don’t forget to till in your annual borage plants no matter how many there are. Even small numbers of the plants are excellent soil conditioners, the plant equivalent of beauty and brains.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Sage, rosemary and thyme are perennial staples of most herb gardens, but don’t forget the annuals. A hardy annual, suited to all USDA hardiness zones, is borage. This self-seeding herb is easy to grow and if allowed to bloom and set seed will provide year upon year of edible blue blossoms as well as foliage. The question is, when and how to harvest borage?
How and When to Harvest Borage
Before we get into borage harvesting, a little more info about the plant is useful. An ancient herb, borage also goes by the names “bee plant,” “bee bread,” talewort, starflower and cool-tankard. The reference to bees is particularly apt, as the plant is an excellent bee attractor with its also aptly named star-shaped flowers. Borage flowers are usually bright blue, but the cultivar ‘Alba’ has white flowers.
Although borage self-seeds, it is less likely to be invasive than herbs such as mint. Borage spreads from seeds above ground rather than underground stolons like mint. The plant can be top heavy with the weight of its cluster of flowers and will reach a size of between 18-36 inches high by 9-24 inches across. Not only is borage beneficial to pollinating bees, but it seems to improve the quality of other plants. It is often grown in conjunction with cucumber, beans, grapes, squash and peas. Borage is high in calcium and potassium, so many folks plant it with their tomatoes to stave off blossom end rot, which is the result of a lack of calcium. Potassium also helps plants set fruit, so a little borage in the garden may go a long way towards engendering healthy and bountiful crops.
Borage (Borago officinalis) is of Mediterranean origin and, as such, thrives in full sun, although it will tolerate light shade. Direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep in rows set 18 inches apart in February or March. Germination should occur within a week or two. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin to a foot to 15 inches apart. Seeds can be readily obtained at nurseries, garden centers or via the internet. Or, if you know someone who is growing the herb, you might try harvesting borage seeds yourself. Harvesting borage seeds is pretty easy since, unlike many other seeds, borage seeds are fairly large. They look like small, hard seed pods with grooved sides and a cap on the top.
Borage Harvesting
Both the leaves and flowers of borage are edible with a flavor much akin to a cucumber. The stalks and leaves are covered with fine, silvery hairs that tend to get pricklier as they mature. Borage leaves contain a small amount of silica, which for some people can act as an irritant. It’s wise to handle the plant with gloves while picking borage leaves and even in the kitchen if you know or think you may be susceptible. When picking borage leaves, select the young ones, which will have less of the little hairs. Continual harvesting and deadheading will allow for a longer period of use.
How and When to Harvest Borage
Before we get into borage harvesting, a little more info about the plant is useful. An ancient herb, borage also goes by the names “bee plant,” “bee bread,” talewort, starflower and cool-tankard. The reference to bees is particularly apt, as the plant is an excellent bee attractor with its also aptly named star-shaped flowers. Borage flowers are usually bright blue, but the cultivar ‘Alba’ has white flowers.
Although borage self-seeds, it is less likely to be invasive than herbs such as mint. Borage spreads from seeds above ground rather than underground stolons like mint. The plant can be top heavy with the weight of its cluster of flowers and will reach a size of between 18-36 inches high by 9-24 inches across. Not only is borage beneficial to pollinating bees, but it seems to improve the quality of other plants. It is often grown in conjunction with cucumber, beans, grapes, squash and peas. Borage is high in calcium and potassium, so many folks plant it with their tomatoes to stave off blossom end rot, which is the result of a lack of calcium. Potassium also helps plants set fruit, so a little borage in the garden may go a long way towards engendering healthy and bountiful crops.
Borage (Borago officinalis) is of Mediterranean origin and, as such, thrives in full sun, although it will tolerate light shade. Direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep in rows set 18 inches apart in February or March. Germination should occur within a week or two. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin to a foot to 15 inches apart. Seeds can be readily obtained at nurseries, garden centers or via the internet. Or, if you know someone who is growing the herb, you might try harvesting borage seeds yourself. Harvesting borage seeds is pretty easy since, unlike many other seeds, borage seeds are fairly large. They look like small, hard seed pods with grooved sides and a cap on the top.
Borage Harvesting
Both the leaves and flowers of borage are edible with a flavor much akin to a cucumber. The stalks and leaves are covered with fine, silvery hairs that tend to get pricklier as they mature. Borage leaves contain a small amount of silica, which for some people can act as an irritant. It’s wise to handle the plant with gloves while picking borage leaves and even in the kitchen if you know or think you may be susceptible. When picking borage leaves, select the young ones, which will have less of the little hairs. Continual harvesting and deadheading will allow for a longer period of use.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
While basil is a commonly grown herb outdoors, this easy-care plant can also be grown indoors. In fact, you can grow basil inside much the same as you would in the garden. This wonderfully fragrant herb can be grown for use in the kitchen, making aromatic oils, or simply for aesthetic purposes. Let’s look at how to grow basil indoors.
Basil Growing Indoors
Growing basil indoors is easy. Container grown basil should be planted in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Using the proper soil type is important in order to successfully grow basil inside. As basil is not tolerant of water stress, make sure pots provide adequate drainage. While the soil should be kept somewhat moist, it should never be soggy; otherwise, the roots will be prone to rotting.
Basil growing indoors will require fertilizing. Depending on the variety grown and its overall purpose, a general houseplant fertilizer can be used. As with many houseplant fertilizers, this should be used at half the recommended strength. However, basil used solely for flavoring foods requires the use of an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer also helps to maintain pH levels when growing basil indoors.
Healthy pH levels are another important aspect of quality soil. You should check the pH levels of soil about once a month or every four to six weeks for optimal growth. Sufficient pH levels are usually between 6.0 and 7.5.
Best Lighting to Grow Basil Inside
Additionally, when growing basil indoors, lighting is important. Basil growing indoors requires at least six hours of sunlight. Basil plants should be placed in a sunny window, preferably facing south. Otherwise, these potted plants may need to be grown under fluorescent lights. With this type of lighting, basil plants will need about 10 hours of light for healthy growth. However, basil grown indoors can also be given both sun and artificial lighting by alternating so many hours in each.
While growing basil indoors is an easy endeavor, the vigorous growth of plants may require frequent repotting. If you follow these few easy tips on how to grow basil indoors, you will be rewarded with this delicious herb year round.
Basil Growing Indoors
Growing basil indoors is easy. Container grown basil should be planted in well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Using the proper soil type is important in order to successfully grow basil inside. As basil is not tolerant of water stress, make sure pots provide adequate drainage. While the soil should be kept somewhat moist, it should never be soggy; otherwise, the roots will be prone to rotting.
Basil growing indoors will require fertilizing. Depending on the variety grown and its overall purpose, a general houseplant fertilizer can be used. As with many houseplant fertilizers, this should be used at half the recommended strength. However, basil used solely for flavoring foods requires the use of an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer also helps to maintain pH levels when growing basil indoors.
Healthy pH levels are another important aspect of quality soil. You should check the pH levels of soil about once a month or every four to six weeks for optimal growth. Sufficient pH levels are usually between 6.0 and 7.5.
Best Lighting to Grow Basil Inside
Additionally, when growing basil indoors, lighting is important. Basil growing indoors requires at least six hours of sunlight. Basil plants should be placed in a sunny window, preferably facing south. Otherwise, these potted plants may need to be grown under fluorescent lights. With this type of lighting, basil plants will need about 10 hours of light for healthy growth. However, basil grown indoors can also be given both sun and artificial lighting by alternating so many hours in each.
While growing basil indoors is an easy endeavor, the vigorous growth of plants may require frequent repotting. If you follow these few easy tips on how to grow basil indoors, you will be rewarded with this delicious herb year round.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
One of the tastiest and easiest herbs to grow is Ocimum basilicum, or sweet basil. Basil plant seeds are a member of the Lamiaceae (mint) family. It is mostly grown for its leaves, which are used dried or fresh in many different Asian or Western dishes. Basil plant seeds are also used in some Thai foods.
How to Plant Basil Seeds
It is easy to learn how to plant basil seeds. Basil should be grown in a place that gets sunshine at least six to eight hours per day. The soil should be well-drained with a pH of 6-7.5. You might wonder, “When do I plant basil seeds?” Basically, the best time to plant basil seeds is when all danger of frost has passed in the spring. Every area has a different climate, so when to plant basil seeds can differ from state to state.
Growing basil seeds is not that difficult. Just sow basil plant seeds evenly by covering them with about ¼-inch of soil. Keep the soil moist and make sure you remove any weeds. The growing basil seeds should germinate within a week. The seedling can be recognized by D-shaped seed leaves that will have the flat sides facing toward each other. Once you see a few more pairs of leaves, you should thin the basil plants to be about 6 to 12 inches apart.
Growing Basil Seeds Inside
If you have wondered how to be successful planting basil seeds inside, it can be done about six to eight weeks before you would normally plant them outside so you can get a good head start on the basil plant growing season. You might want to do this if you are growing basil seeds like “Purple Ruffles,” which is a slow-growing variety. You will want to make sure you water your basil every seven to 10 days to make sure your plants get enough water. This depends, of course, on the amount of rainfall in your area. Remember that, when growing basil seeds, container plants will dry out quicker than those you plant in the garden, so remember to water them as well.
Once your basil plant seeds are fully grown, it is nice to pick the leaves and let them dry so you can use them in sauces and soups. Basil is wonderful with tomatoes, so if you have a vegetable garden, be sure to include planting basil seeds among the vegetables. Further, no herb garden is complete without basil, and it is one of the easier herbs to grow and keep healthy.
How to Plant Basil Seeds
It is easy to learn how to plant basil seeds. Basil should be grown in a place that gets sunshine at least six to eight hours per day. The soil should be well-drained with a pH of 6-7.5. You might wonder, “When do I plant basil seeds?” Basically, the best time to plant basil seeds is when all danger of frost has passed in the spring. Every area has a different climate, so when to plant basil seeds can differ from state to state.
Growing basil seeds is not that difficult. Just sow basil plant seeds evenly by covering them with about ¼-inch of soil. Keep the soil moist and make sure you remove any weeds. The growing basil seeds should germinate within a week. The seedling can be recognized by D-shaped seed leaves that will have the flat sides facing toward each other. Once you see a few more pairs of leaves, you should thin the basil plants to be about 6 to 12 inches apart.
Growing Basil Seeds Inside
If you have wondered how to be successful planting basil seeds inside, it can be done about six to eight weeks before you would normally plant them outside so you can get a good head start on the basil plant growing season. You might want to do this if you are growing basil seeds like “Purple Ruffles,” which is a slow-growing variety. You will want to make sure you water your basil every seven to 10 days to make sure your plants get enough water. This depends, of course, on the amount of rainfall in your area. Remember that, when growing basil seeds, container plants will dry out quicker than those you plant in the garden, so remember to water them as well.
Once your basil plant seeds are fully grown, it is nice to pick the leaves and let them dry so you can use them in sauces and soups. Basil is wonderful with tomatoes, so if you have a vegetable garden, be sure to include planting basil seeds among the vegetables. Further, no herb garden is complete without basil, and it is one of the easier herbs to grow and keep healthy.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
There are plenty of herbs that you can plant in your herb garden, but the easiest herb to grow, tastiest and most popular has to be basil. There are a couple of ways for propagating basil plants and both of them are quite simple. Let’s look at how to propagate basil.
Planting Basil Seeds
When it comes to planting basil seeds, make sure you’re planting basil seeds in an area where they will get six to eight hours of sunshine daily. The soil should have a neutral pH so that they have the best chance of growing. Simply plant the seeds in a row and cover with about 1/4-inch of soil. Once the plants grow to a few inches in height, thin them out to 6 to 12 inches apart.
Planting Basil Seeds Indoors
You can plant your basil indoors as well. Be sure the pot is placed in an area where it will get daily sunshine and water your basil every seven to 10 days.
How to Propagate Basil from Cuttings
Basil propagation from cuttings is quite simple. In fact, propagating basil is one way to share your basil with your friends. All you need to do is take a 4-inch basil cutting right below a leaf node. Remove the leaves off the basil cutting about 2 inches from the end. Make sure the basil cutting is a piece that has not yet flowered. Your basil cutting can then be placed in a glass of water on the windowsill where it can get good sunlight. Use a clear glass so you can watch your basil propagation grow roots. Change the water every few days until you see root growth, then leave your basil propagation roots to grow to about 2 inches or so. This can take two to four weeks.
Once the roots on your basil cutting are 2 inches or longer, you can plant the cutting in a pot indoors. Put the planter in a place where the plant will get direct sunlight. Basil propagation is a great way to share your basil. Now that you know how to propagate basil, you can take new plantings and give them as gifts to friends or offer them to new neighbors as housewarming gifts.
Planting Basil Seeds
When it comes to planting basil seeds, make sure you’re planting basil seeds in an area where they will get six to eight hours of sunshine daily. The soil should have a neutral pH so that they have the best chance of growing. Simply plant the seeds in a row and cover with about 1/4-inch of soil. Once the plants grow to a few inches in height, thin them out to 6 to 12 inches apart.
Planting Basil Seeds Indoors
You can plant your basil indoors as well. Be sure the pot is placed in an area where it will get daily sunshine and water your basil every seven to 10 days.
How to Propagate Basil from Cuttings
Basil propagation from cuttings is quite simple. In fact, propagating basil is one way to share your basil with your friends. All you need to do is take a 4-inch basil cutting right below a leaf node. Remove the leaves off the basil cutting about 2 inches from the end. Make sure the basil cutting is a piece that has not yet flowered. Your basil cutting can then be placed in a glass of water on the windowsill where it can get good sunlight. Use a clear glass so you can watch your basil propagation grow roots. Change the water every few days until you see root growth, then leave your basil propagation roots to grow to about 2 inches or so. This can take two to four weeks.
Once the roots on your basil cutting are 2 inches or longer, you can plant the cutting in a pot indoors. Put the planter in a place where the plant will get direct sunlight. Basil propagation is a great way to share your basil. Now that you know how to propagate basil, you can take new plantings and give them as gifts to friends or offer them to new neighbors as housewarming gifts.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Basil is one of the most popular herbs to grow, but that doesn’t mean there are no basil plant problems. There are a few basil diseases that can cause basil leaves to turn brown or yellow, have spots or even wilt and fall off. Keep reading to learn more about the diseases that can cause problems with growing basil.
Common Basil Diseases
Fusarium Wilt
Fusarium wilt is among the most common basil diseases. This basil wilt disease most commonly affects sweet basil varieties, but other basil varieties are still somewhat vulnerable.
Symptoms of fusarium wilt include:
stunted growth
wilted and yellowing leaves
brown spots or streaks on the stem
severely twisted stems
leaf drop
Fusarium wilt is caused by a fungus that can be carried by either the soil that affected basil plants have been growing in or by seeds from infected basil plants. There is no remedy for fusarium wilt. Destroy infected plants and don’t plant basil or other mint plants in that area for two to three years. Even if a basil or mint plant cannot be hurt by fusarium wilt, they can carry the disease and infect other plants.
Bacterial Leaf Spot or Basil Shoot Blight
This basil disease is caused by a bacteria called Pseudomonas cichorii. Symptoms of bacterial leaf spot are black or brown spots that appear on the leaves and streaking on the stems of the plant. Bacterial leaf spot occurs when infected soil is splashed onto the leaves of the basil plant. While there is no fix for bacterial leaf spot, you can minimize the damage by making sure that your basil plants have plenty of air circulation and that they are watered in a way so that the bacteria is not splashed onto the leaves.
Downy Mildew
Downy mildew is a relatively new basil disease that has only started to affect basil in the past few years. The symptoms of downy mildew include yellow leaves that have fuzzy, grey growth on the undersides of the leaves. Downy mildew is aggravated by overly wet conditions, so if it appears on your basil plants, make sure that you reduce overhead watering and that the basil plants have good drainage and good air circulation.
Other Basil Plant Problems
The basil diseases listed above are specific to basil plants, but there are a few other problems with growing basil that can happen. They include:
Root rot
Nitrogen deficiency
Slugs
Thrips
Aphids
Common Basil Diseases
Fusarium Wilt
Fusarium wilt is among the most common basil diseases. This basil wilt disease most commonly affects sweet basil varieties, but other basil varieties are still somewhat vulnerable.
Symptoms of fusarium wilt include:
stunted growth
wilted and yellowing leaves
brown spots or streaks on the stem
severely twisted stems
leaf drop
Fusarium wilt is caused by a fungus that can be carried by either the soil that affected basil plants have been growing in or by seeds from infected basil plants. There is no remedy for fusarium wilt. Destroy infected plants and don’t plant basil or other mint plants in that area for two to three years. Even if a basil or mint plant cannot be hurt by fusarium wilt, they can carry the disease and infect other plants.
Bacterial Leaf Spot or Basil Shoot Blight
This basil disease is caused by a bacteria called Pseudomonas cichorii. Symptoms of bacterial leaf spot are black or brown spots that appear on the leaves and streaking on the stems of the plant. Bacterial leaf spot occurs when infected soil is splashed onto the leaves of the basil plant. While there is no fix for bacterial leaf spot, you can minimize the damage by making sure that your basil plants have plenty of air circulation and that they are watered in a way so that the bacteria is not splashed onto the leaves.
Downy Mildew
Downy mildew is a relatively new basil disease that has only started to affect basil in the past few years. The symptoms of downy mildew include yellow leaves that have fuzzy, grey growth on the undersides of the leaves. Downy mildew is aggravated by overly wet conditions, so if it appears on your basil plants, make sure that you reduce overhead watering and that the basil plants have good drainage and good air circulation.
Other Basil Plant Problems
The basil diseases listed above are specific to basil plants, but there are a few other problems with growing basil that can happen. They include:
Root rot
Nitrogen deficiency
Slugs
Thrips
Aphids
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
A relative to mint, basil (Ocimum basilicum) has become one of the most popular, easy-to-grow and versatile of garden herbs. All basil is heat- and sun-loving, regardless of variety. Originating from India, basil plant leaves may be found in a plethora of cuisines from Italian to Thai and can be used to flavor foods, vinegars, oils, teas, and even to scent soap. However, you may sometimes be surprised to find holes or other basil leaf damage in basil leaves. 
What’s Eating My Basil Leaves?
Generally speaking, basil plant leaves are not susceptible to many issues as long as you rotate plantings and maintain hygiene surrounding the plant. That said, you may on occasion notice that something is taking a nibble or two from your soon-to-be pesto. What basil pests are capable of this relentless infraction? Let’s learn more about the pests associated with most basil leaf damage.
Holes in Basil Leaves and Basil Pests
When gaps or holes in basil leaves have been discovered, the time for action is now! The most frequent assaulters of your precious basil plant leaves are Japanese beetles, slugs and aphids.
Japanese Beetles
Japanese beetles are usually found for around a month during the summer. They ravage the tender leaf but do not eat the larger veins of the basil plant, leaving a lacy looking skeleton on your plant. Japanese beetles can be plucked from the basil plant with your fingers and squished or dropped into soapy water to dispose. You may also choose to cover plants with garden fabric to reduce the number of mature insects that feed on them, which can also include the grasshopper.
Slugs or Snails
Slugs, ugh, slugs! Slugs find the basil plant leaves almost as delicious as you do. They create ragged holes in the basil plant leaves after climbing up the plant. While basil plants like mulch to help retain the moisture they enjoy, it is also a conduit for the slugs. To retard those munching slugs, try sprinkling diatomaceous earth over the mulch. The diatomaceous earth scrapes the slug’s skin and causes it to dehydrate and subsequently die. Products such as Bayer Advanced Dual Action Snail and Slug Killer Bait, Sluggo, Escar-Go, and Schultz Slug and Snail Bait must be reapplied after rain or watering. While not totally nontoxic, these products contain iron phosphate, which is significantly less harmful to pets, birds and beneficial insects than the more antiquated metaldehyde-containing products.
Aphids and Soft Bodied Insects
Soft bodied insects such as aphids, spider mites and whiteflies can be eradicated with insecticidal soaps like Bonide Multi Purpose Insect Control Soap, Safer Rose and Flower Insect Killer Concentrate, Safer Insect Killing Soap Concentrate and Concern Insect Killing Soap Concentrate. Most of these pests will be on the underside of the basil leaf and must have direct contact with the soapy spray to effectively eradicate them. If you are interested in using a more environmentally friendly product, you may investigate Azadiractin, which is an extraction naturally produced by the Neem tree, and is also known to gardeners as neem oil. Products which contain Azadiractin include: Align, Azatin, Neemex and Omazin. These products provide the gardener with another option for controlling basil plant marauders. Finally, remove any basil plant leaves with holes in them to avoid contaminating the rest of your plant. Chances are good that those damaged basil plant leaves harbor some type of pest vying for your next batch of Pesto Genovese.
What’s Eating My Basil Leaves?
Generally speaking, basil plant leaves are not susceptible to many issues as long as you rotate plantings and maintain hygiene surrounding the plant. That said, you may on occasion notice that something is taking a nibble or two from your soon-to-be pesto. What basil pests are capable of this relentless infraction? Let’s learn more about the pests associated with most basil leaf damage.
Holes in Basil Leaves and Basil Pests
When gaps or holes in basil leaves have been discovered, the time for action is now! The most frequent assaulters of your precious basil plant leaves are Japanese beetles, slugs and aphids.
Japanese Beetles
Japanese beetles are usually found for around a month during the summer. They ravage the tender leaf but do not eat the larger veins of the basil plant, leaving a lacy looking skeleton on your plant. Japanese beetles can be plucked from the basil plant with your fingers and squished or dropped into soapy water to dispose. You may also choose to cover plants with garden fabric to reduce the number of mature insects that feed on them, which can also include the grasshopper.
Slugs or Snails
Slugs, ugh, slugs! Slugs find the basil plant leaves almost as delicious as you do. They create ragged holes in the basil plant leaves after climbing up the plant. While basil plants like mulch to help retain the moisture they enjoy, it is also a conduit for the slugs. To retard those munching slugs, try sprinkling diatomaceous earth over the mulch. The diatomaceous earth scrapes the slug’s skin and causes it to dehydrate and subsequently die. Products such as Bayer Advanced Dual Action Snail and Slug Killer Bait, Sluggo, Escar-Go, and Schultz Slug and Snail Bait must be reapplied after rain or watering. While not totally nontoxic, these products contain iron phosphate, which is significantly less harmful to pets, birds and beneficial insects than the more antiquated metaldehyde-containing products.
Aphids and Soft Bodied Insects
Soft bodied insects such as aphids, spider mites and whiteflies can be eradicated with insecticidal soaps like Bonide Multi Purpose Insect Control Soap, Safer Rose and Flower Insect Killer Concentrate, Safer Insect Killing Soap Concentrate and Concern Insect Killing Soap Concentrate. Most of these pests will be on the underside of the basil leaf and must have direct contact with the soapy spray to effectively eradicate them. If you are interested in using a more environmentally friendly product, you may investigate Azadiractin, which is an extraction naturally produced by the Neem tree, and is also known to gardeners as neem oil. Products which contain Azadiractin include: Align, Azatin, Neemex and Omazin. These products provide the gardener with another option for controlling basil plant marauders. Finally, remove any basil plant leaves with holes in them to avoid contaminating the rest of your plant. Chances are good that those damaged basil plant leaves harbor some type of pest vying for your next batch of Pesto Genovese.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
I grow basil every year in a container on my deck, near enough to the kitchen to easily grab a few sprigs to liven up almost any culinary creation. Generally, I use it so frequently that the plant doesn’t get a chance to flower, but every so often I am remiss in its use and, voila, I end up with tiny delicate blooms on basil. The question is then, should basil be allowed to flower and if so, can you eat basil flowers?
Basil Plant Flowering
If your basil plant has flowered, the question of what to do depends on what you are growing the herb for. Basil is a member of the mint family, Lamiaceae, with over 40 known varieties. Most folks grow it for its aromatic and flavorful foliage, redolent of mint and clove with slight peppery notes.
Although basil is most often associated with the Mediterranean or Italy, the herb actually originated in Asia — Thailand, Vietnam and parts of India — where it is often grown as a perennial. Because of this broad connection, basil can be found in almost every cuisine on the planet. Among the vast varieties of basil, Ocimum basilicum, or sweet basil, is the most commonly grown. Ocimum is derived from the Greek meaning “to be fragrant” and thus, is evocative of this plant’s delicious foliage. Basil leaves, whether sweet basil or purple, spicy Thai or citrusy lemon basil, all contain essential oils responsible for their unique flavor nuances. The foliage is easily bruised, releasing the magnificent perfume. So then, should basil be allowed to flower?
Blooms on Basil
So, if your basil plant has flowered, is this a good thing or a bad thing? If you are cultivating basil strictly for its leaves, it is best to remove the flowers. Pinching basil blooms back will allow all of the plant’s energy to stay focused on foliage production, creating a bushier plant with more leaves and maintaining higher levels of essential oils in the leaves. Leaving the flowers on basil plants tends to engender a straggly looking specimen with fewer leaves to harvest. That said, if you have also been remiss in pinching basil blooms, just snip them off and, as they are quite pretty, put them in a bud vase to enjoy on the window sill. Or, you can also sprinkle them on a salad or over pasta to enliven the dish because, yes, basil flowers are edible. They also make great tea! You can expect the blooms to taste similar to the leaves, but with a milder flavor.
If, however, your intent when cultivating basil is for a big batch of pesto, you’ll want to pinch back the herb to encourage leaf growth. Pinch off the flower buds as soon as they emerge. Basil will usually need to be pruned every two to three weeks and it’s okay to go at it. The plant can tolerate a severe pruning which will, in fact, promote growth. Lastly, fertilize your basil sparingly, as it will actually decrease the fragrant essential oils, and harvest the leaves in the early morning when they are at their peak. Don’t overreact if the plant blossoms — just pinch back the blooms or, better yet, cut back half the foliage. Use both for dinner and the plant will double in size within a couple of weeks, healthier and bushier than before.
Basil Plant Flowering
If your basil plant has flowered, the question of what to do depends on what you are growing the herb for. Basil is a member of the mint family, Lamiaceae, with over 40 known varieties. Most folks grow it for its aromatic and flavorful foliage, redolent of mint and clove with slight peppery notes.
Although basil is most often associated with the Mediterranean or Italy, the herb actually originated in Asia — Thailand, Vietnam and parts of India — where it is often grown as a perennial. Because of this broad connection, basil can be found in almost every cuisine on the planet. Among the vast varieties of basil, Ocimum basilicum, or sweet basil, is the most commonly grown. Ocimum is derived from the Greek meaning “to be fragrant” and thus, is evocative of this plant’s delicious foliage. Basil leaves, whether sweet basil or purple, spicy Thai or citrusy lemon basil, all contain essential oils responsible for their unique flavor nuances. The foliage is easily bruised, releasing the magnificent perfume. So then, should basil be allowed to flower?
Blooms on Basil
So, if your basil plant has flowered, is this a good thing or a bad thing? If you are cultivating basil strictly for its leaves, it is best to remove the flowers. Pinching basil blooms back will allow all of the plant’s energy to stay focused on foliage production, creating a bushier plant with more leaves and maintaining higher levels of essential oils in the leaves. Leaving the flowers on basil plants tends to engender a straggly looking specimen with fewer leaves to harvest. That said, if you have also been remiss in pinching basil blooms, just snip them off and, as they are quite pretty, put them in a bud vase to enjoy on the window sill. Or, you can also sprinkle them on a salad or over pasta to enliven the dish because, yes, basil flowers are edible. They also make great tea! You can expect the blooms to taste similar to the leaves, but with a milder flavor.
If, however, your intent when cultivating basil is for a big batch of pesto, you’ll want to pinch back the herb to encourage leaf growth. Pinch off the flower buds as soon as they emerge. Basil will usually need to be pruned every two to three weeks and it’s okay to go at it. The plant can tolerate a severe pruning which will, in fact, promote growth. Lastly, fertilize your basil sparingly, as it will actually decrease the fragrant essential oils, and harvest the leaves in the early morning when they are at their peak. Don’t overreact if the plant blossoms — just pinch back the blooms or, better yet, cut back half the foliage. Use both for dinner and the plant will double in size within a couple of weeks, healthier and bushier than before.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Basil is a wonderfully versatile annual herb that is native to southern Asia and the islands of the South Pacific. As with other herbs, basil is easy to grow and with ideal conditions quite prolific. Even so, basil plants can have a number of issues; among these are basil plants with woody stems. If you have basil stems turning into wood, read on to learn about troubleshooting woody stems in basil.
How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. Basil is grown primarily for its tender, young leaves which are used either fresh or dried in Asian and European foods. Proper planting and ongoing care of basil gives it the best chance to flourish and avoid disease and pests.
Basil, like most herbs, likes lot of sunshine, at least six to eight hours per day. Propagation by seed is simple. You can direct sow into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or start seeds early indoors (six to eight weeks prior to planting outside). Sow the seeds evenly and cover them with ¼-inch of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Within five to seven days, you’ll see the seedlings begin to emerge. Keep the seedlings moist but not drenched or they may develop a fungal disease called damping-off. When the seedlings have two or three pairs of leaves, thin them or transplant them 6-12 inches apart. Mulch around the plants with grass clippings, straw, compost or ground leaves to help retain moisture and retard weeds.
Water the basil every seven to 10 days, depending upon rainfall. If the plants are in containers, they may need additional water. Lightly fertilize basil with a 5-10-5 food once or twice at the rate of 3 ounces for every 10 feet of planting space. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength every four to six weeks for indoor basil and every three to four weeks for basil that is grown outside in containers. Follow all of the above and you should have an abundance of lovely, aromatic basil leaves to harvest. But what happens if you start getting woody basil plants?
Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil
Basil, unlike some plants, actually loves to have a little taken off the top. You can harvest as soon as the plant is a few inches tall. Snip young leaves or, if you are harvesting an entire stem, cut above a pair of leaves. This encourages new growth at the cut which should be visible within a week. Keep trimming the basil throughout the growing season to encourage growth. If you can’t use the basil immediately, hang stems to dry or freeze the basil in ice cube trays for later use. Puree the basil with either a little water or olive oil, put the puree in the tray, freeze, and then pop them out and store the cubes in the freezer in an airtight container for later use. The important thing is to keep pruning your basil. If you don’t, the plant will flower and form seed which, in turn, causes the stems to become woody. The leaves will turn bitter as well. If you’re growing the basil as an ornamental for its attractive foliage and flowers, then you probably don’t care if the basil stems are turning into wood. If, however, you love those succulent young leaves, keep snipping. Old stems that have not been cut back also turn woody just as a plant that has been allowed to flower. Do keep in mind that basil is an annual. You can extend its life a bit by bringing the plant inside when the weather begins to get cold, but it will eventually die. Woody basil plants simply mean that the plant is protecting itself from the dipping temps. If you bring it inside, give it plenty of light. Production will slow in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest some delectable fresh basil leaves to enliven your winter meals.
How to Avoid Basil with Woody Stems
Basil, Ocimum basilicum, is a member of the Lamiaceae or mint family. Basil is grown primarily for its tender, young leaves which are used either fresh or dried in Asian and European foods. Proper planting and ongoing care of basil gives it the best chance to flourish and avoid disease and pests.
Basil, like most herbs, likes lot of sunshine, at least six to eight hours per day. Propagation by seed is simple. You can direct sow into the garden after all danger of frost has passed or start seeds early indoors (six to eight weeks prior to planting outside). Sow the seeds evenly and cover them with ¼-inch of well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.5. Within five to seven days, you’ll see the seedlings begin to emerge. Keep the seedlings moist but not drenched or they may develop a fungal disease called damping-off. When the seedlings have two or three pairs of leaves, thin them or transplant them 6-12 inches apart. Mulch around the plants with grass clippings, straw, compost or ground leaves to help retain moisture and retard weeds.
Water the basil every seven to 10 days, depending upon rainfall. If the plants are in containers, they may need additional water. Lightly fertilize basil with a 5-10-5 food once or twice at the rate of 3 ounces for every 10 feet of planting space. Use a liquid fertilizer at half the recommended strength every four to six weeks for indoor basil and every three to four weeks for basil that is grown outside in containers. Follow all of the above and you should have an abundance of lovely, aromatic basil leaves to harvest. But what happens if you start getting woody basil plants?
Troubleshooting Woody Stems in Basil
Basil, unlike some plants, actually loves to have a little taken off the top. You can harvest as soon as the plant is a few inches tall. Snip young leaves or, if you are harvesting an entire stem, cut above a pair of leaves. This encourages new growth at the cut which should be visible within a week. Keep trimming the basil throughout the growing season to encourage growth. If you can’t use the basil immediately, hang stems to dry or freeze the basil in ice cube trays for later use. Puree the basil with either a little water or olive oil, put the puree in the tray, freeze, and then pop them out and store the cubes in the freezer in an airtight container for later use. The important thing is to keep pruning your basil. If you don’t, the plant will flower and form seed which, in turn, causes the stems to become woody. The leaves will turn bitter as well. If you’re growing the basil as an ornamental for its attractive foliage and flowers, then you probably don’t care if the basil stems are turning into wood. If, however, you love those succulent young leaves, keep snipping. Old stems that have not been cut back also turn woody just as a plant that has been allowed to flower. Do keep in mind that basil is an annual. You can extend its life a bit by bringing the plant inside when the weather begins to get cold, but it will eventually die. Woody basil plants simply mean that the plant is protecting itself from the dipping temps. If you bring it inside, give it plenty of light. Production will slow in the winter, but you should still be able to harvest some delectable fresh basil leaves to enliven your winter meals.
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