文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti and succulents make outstanding landscaping plants. They require little maintenance, grow in a variety of climates, and are easy to care for and grow. Most will even tolerate neglect. These plants are also well adapted to potted environments, making them excellent candidates for growing indoors as well.
Types of Cacti
Cacti vary in size, color, shape and growing habits. They may grow in upright columns, spreading clumps or spiny balls. They might even be found cascading over large rocks or in hanging baskets. Cacti are available in numerous varieties too, many of which produce stunning flowers. While many types of cactus are native to desert climates, most will tolerate a number of growing conditions. This versatility makes cactus landscaping possible nearly anywhere. Some popular types of cacti found in landscape settings include: Prickly pear cactus – known for its broad, flat prickly stems, of which the tips turn coral colored in bright sun. Barrel cactus – resembles spine-covered barrels. Cholla cactus – has thin round stems and is quite attractive when used as a focal point within the landscape. Pincushion cactus – resembling a small pincushion with its tiny spines sticking out from its round ball-like shape, it makes an interesting addition to the garden. Totem pole cactus – characterized by their large height and spineless column shape. Organ pipe cactus – grows in clusters that look similar to its name-organ pipes.
Cactus Landscaping Tips
When landscaping with cactus and succulent plants, you should always do your homework first. Learn more about their individual growing requirements and try to match these requirements to that of your landscape. Cactus plants have a number of survival tactics that allow them to adapt to a particular environment; however, it’s always better to choose those that are more likely to thrive in your particular area. Including a variety of cacti that share similar growing needs but with different heights and textures will add interest to the cactus garden.
Growing Cactus Outdoors
When growing cactus outdoors, choose a sunny, sloped location whenever possible. Locating cactus on a slope allows for better drainage, which is vital when dealing with these plants. Depending on the types of cactus chosen, beds should be about 6 to 12 inches deep with well-drained soil specially formulated for cactus plants. This can be purchased or mixed yourself using two parts potting soil, two parts sand, and one part gravel. Cactus plants also enjoy a moderate layer of mulch such as pebbles, rocks, or similar substance. Once established, cacti require little maintenance and very little, if any, water.
Types of Cacti
Cacti vary in size, color, shape and growing habits. They may grow in upright columns, spreading clumps or spiny balls. They might even be found cascading over large rocks or in hanging baskets. Cacti are available in numerous varieties too, many of which produce stunning flowers. While many types of cactus are native to desert climates, most will tolerate a number of growing conditions. This versatility makes cactus landscaping possible nearly anywhere. Some popular types of cacti found in landscape settings include: Prickly pear cactus – known for its broad, flat prickly stems, of which the tips turn coral colored in bright sun. Barrel cactus – resembles spine-covered barrels. Cholla cactus – has thin round stems and is quite attractive when used as a focal point within the landscape. Pincushion cactus – resembling a small pincushion with its tiny spines sticking out from its round ball-like shape, it makes an interesting addition to the garden. Totem pole cactus – characterized by their large height and spineless column shape. Organ pipe cactus – grows in clusters that look similar to its name-organ pipes.
Cactus Landscaping Tips
When landscaping with cactus and succulent plants, you should always do your homework first. Learn more about their individual growing requirements and try to match these requirements to that of your landscape. Cactus plants have a number of survival tactics that allow them to adapt to a particular environment; however, it’s always better to choose those that are more likely to thrive in your particular area. Including a variety of cacti that share similar growing needs but with different heights and textures will add interest to the cactus garden.
Growing Cactus Outdoors
When growing cactus outdoors, choose a sunny, sloped location whenever possible. Locating cactus on a slope allows for better drainage, which is vital when dealing with these plants. Depending on the types of cactus chosen, beds should be about 6 to 12 inches deep with well-drained soil specially formulated for cactus plants. This can be purchased or mixed yourself using two parts potting soil, two parts sand, and one part gravel. Cactus plants also enjoy a moderate layer of mulch such as pebbles, rocks, or similar substance. Once established, cacti require little maintenance and very little, if any, water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Succulent garden design is appropriate for warm, temperate and even cold season locations. In cold climates, it is not always possible to have a succulent garden outside, but you can grow them indoors in containers. Learn a little about how to plan an outdoor succulent garden and bring some fun shapes and textures to your landscape.
Succulent Garden Design
Succulents are generally drought tolerant plants that have thick leaves where they store moisture. Although succulent plants are very tolerant of dry conditions, they do need water, especially during the growing season.
Succulent garden design should consider the location, soil type, configuration, moisture level, and the types of plants. Some succulents are more drought tolerant than others. Do a little research on the wide variety of succulent shapes and sizes before starting a succulent garden outside. For instance, cacti are succulents and hold water in their stems and pads. Other types of succulents are not spiny but have swollen leaves with a myriad of growth habits. There are spreading or drooping types, such as burro’s tail; spiky, wide plants like agave; or tall, columned varieties such as old man’s cactus. Plan the design with enough space for the plants to fill in as they grow.
Succulent Outdoor Plants
Growing a succulent garden outside starts with plant choices. If you are a novice, begin with plants that are easy and foolproof. Sedum and sempervivum are easy to grow and adaptable to bright, sunny locations or even slightly dappled areas. Whatever types of plants you choose, succulents need well-drained soil. They can thrive in cracks and crevasses, rockeries and sandy or gritty soils. Succulents in cool season areas will do best in containers that are brought indoors for the winter. Try some kalanchoe, aloe, echeveria and aeonium. Have fun with the unique sizes, shapes and textures of these plants. Use succulent outdoor plants as part of a xeriscape area of the garden, to conserve water and provide interest and color.
How to Plan an Outdoor Succulent Garden
When you’ve chosen your plants and are ready for planting, you will need to know how to plan an outdoor succulent garden. Choose a sunny location and plot the space you want to fill. Check the soil conditions and drainage by digging a hole at least 1 foot deep and filling it with water. If the water drains within a half hour, the soil is sufficiently porous. If not, simply mix in 3 inches of sand or other gritty material to increase the texture and drainage. Use taller specimens at the center of the area and spreading species at the edges or dotted among the larger plants as ground cover. Top the area with a layer of pebbles or small rocks to act as mulch. This will help prevent weeds and conserves moisture while allowing evaporation of excess water.
Care of Succulent Garden Plants
Succulent plants tolerate periods of dryness, but should receive regular water during the growing season. When soil is dry a couple of inches down, water deeply and then let the soil dry out again between waterings. The most common problem with succulents is rot. Keeping the stems out of the soil and providing drying periods between irrigation will help prevent this. Also, water from the base of the plant to keep leaves dry. Watch for insect pests and combat them with sprays of water and horticultural soap spray. Remove dead stems and offsets during the care of succulent garden plants. Offsets are easy to start as a completely new plant. Put them in a well-drained potting mix and care for them until roots are full and healthy, then plant them in a new area of the garden.
Succulent Garden Design
Succulents are generally drought tolerant plants that have thick leaves where they store moisture. Although succulent plants are very tolerant of dry conditions, they do need water, especially during the growing season.
Succulent garden design should consider the location, soil type, configuration, moisture level, and the types of plants. Some succulents are more drought tolerant than others. Do a little research on the wide variety of succulent shapes and sizes before starting a succulent garden outside. For instance, cacti are succulents and hold water in their stems and pads. Other types of succulents are not spiny but have swollen leaves with a myriad of growth habits. There are spreading or drooping types, such as burro’s tail; spiky, wide plants like agave; or tall, columned varieties such as old man’s cactus. Plan the design with enough space for the plants to fill in as they grow.
Succulent Outdoor Plants
Growing a succulent garden outside starts with plant choices. If you are a novice, begin with plants that are easy and foolproof. Sedum and sempervivum are easy to grow and adaptable to bright, sunny locations or even slightly dappled areas. Whatever types of plants you choose, succulents need well-drained soil. They can thrive in cracks and crevasses, rockeries and sandy or gritty soils. Succulents in cool season areas will do best in containers that are brought indoors for the winter. Try some kalanchoe, aloe, echeveria and aeonium. Have fun with the unique sizes, shapes and textures of these plants. Use succulent outdoor plants as part of a xeriscape area of the garden, to conserve water and provide interest and color.
How to Plan an Outdoor Succulent Garden
When you’ve chosen your plants and are ready for planting, you will need to know how to plan an outdoor succulent garden. Choose a sunny location and plot the space you want to fill. Check the soil conditions and drainage by digging a hole at least 1 foot deep and filling it with water. If the water drains within a half hour, the soil is sufficiently porous. If not, simply mix in 3 inches of sand or other gritty material to increase the texture and drainage. Use taller specimens at the center of the area and spreading species at the edges or dotted among the larger plants as ground cover. Top the area with a layer of pebbles or small rocks to act as mulch. This will help prevent weeds and conserves moisture while allowing evaporation of excess water.
Care of Succulent Garden Plants
Succulent plants tolerate periods of dryness, but should receive regular water during the growing season. When soil is dry a couple of inches down, water deeply and then let the soil dry out again between waterings. The most common problem with succulents is rot. Keeping the stems out of the soil and providing drying periods between irrigation will help prevent this. Also, water from the base of the plant to keep leaves dry. Watch for insect pests and combat them with sprays of water and horticultural soap spray. Remove dead stems and offsets during the care of succulent garden plants. Offsets are easy to start as a completely new plant. Put them in a well-drained potting mix and care for them until roots are full and healthy, then plant them in a new area of the garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are one of my favorite types of plants to grow inside all year and outside in summer. Unfortunately, the ambient air tends to stay moist during most seasons, a condition which makes cacti unhappy. Cactus potting soil can enhance drainage, increase evaporation and provide the dry conditions that cacti favor. What is cactus mix? This medium promotes optimum health for your cactus and mimics the natural gritty, arid and low nutrient soils they grow in naturally. You can purchase the mixture or learn how to make cactus soil yourself.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The three common holiday cacti, named for time of year the blooms appear, include Thanksgiving cactus, Christmas cactus and Easter cactus. All three are easy to grow and have similar growth habits and care requirements. Although these familiar cacti are traditionally available in shades of red, today’s holiday cactus varieties come in magenta, pink and scarlet, as well as yellow, white, orange, purple, salmon and apricot. Although all three are native to Brazil, Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus are tropical rain forest plants, while Easter cactus is native to Brazil’s natural forests.
Different Types of Holiday Cactus
The three types of Christmas cactus plants (holiday cacti), are primarily recognized by the time of bloom. Thanksgiving cactus blooms in late autumn, about a month before Christmas cactus. Easter cactus displays buds in February and blooms around Easter. Different types of holiday cactus are also differentiated by the shape of their leaves, which are actually plump, flat stems. Thanksgiving cactus is often known as lobster cactus because the edges of the leaves are hooked, giving them a claw-like appearance. Christmas cactus leaves are smaller with smooth edges, and Easter cactus leaves have a more bristled appearance. Unlike regular, desert-dwelling cactus, holiday cacti are not drought-tolerant. During active growth, the plants should be watered whenever the surface of the potting mix feels dry to the touch. Drainage is critical and the pots should never stand in water.
After flowering, water the holiday cactus sparingly until the plant completes its normal dormant period and new growth appears. A period of relative dryness is especially important for Easter cactus, which isn’t a tropical plant. Holiday cactus prefers dark nights and relatively cool temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees F./10 and 18 degrees C. Holiday cactus is easy to propagate by breaking off a stem with two to five segments. Set the stem aside until the broken end forms a callus, then plant the stem in a pot filled with a mixture of sand and sterile potting mix. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Otherwise, the stem is likely to rot before it develops roots.
Different Types of Holiday Cactus
The three types of Christmas cactus plants (holiday cacti), are primarily recognized by the time of bloom. Thanksgiving cactus blooms in late autumn, about a month before Christmas cactus. Easter cactus displays buds in February and blooms around Easter. Different types of holiday cactus are also differentiated by the shape of their leaves, which are actually plump, flat stems. Thanksgiving cactus is often known as lobster cactus because the edges of the leaves are hooked, giving them a claw-like appearance. Christmas cactus leaves are smaller with smooth edges, and Easter cactus leaves have a more bristled appearance. Unlike regular, desert-dwelling cactus, holiday cacti are not drought-tolerant. During active growth, the plants should be watered whenever the surface of the potting mix feels dry to the touch. Drainage is critical and the pots should never stand in water.
After flowering, water the holiday cactus sparingly until the plant completes its normal dormant period and new growth appears. A period of relative dryness is especially important for Easter cactus, which isn’t a tropical plant. Holiday cactus prefers dark nights and relatively cool temperatures between 50 and 65 degrees F./10 and 18 degrees C. Holiday cactus is easy to propagate by breaking off a stem with two to five segments. Set the stem aside until the broken end forms a callus, then plant the stem in a pot filled with a mixture of sand and sterile potting mix. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Otherwise, the stem is likely to rot before it develops roots.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The rubber tree is a large houseplant and most people find it is easy to grow and care for indoors. However, some people ask about growing outdoor rubber tree plants. In fact, in some areas, this plant is used as a screen or patio plant. So, can you grow rubber plant outside? Read more to learn about taking care of a rubber plant outside in your area.
Can You Grow Rubber Plants Outside?
Gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can grow the plant outdoors, according to most rubber plant information. Outdoor rubber tree plants (Ficus elastica) may grow in Zone 9 if winter protection is offered. In this area, outdoor rubber tree plants should be planted on the north or east side of a building for protection from the wind. When the plant is young, prune it to a single trunk, as these plants tend to split when caught in the wind.
Rubber plant information also says to plant the tree in a shady area, although some plants accept light, dappled shade. Thick, glabrous leaves burn easily when exposed to sunlight. Those living in tropical zones outside of the United States can grow outdoor rubber tree plants easily, as this is their native environment. In the wild, outdoor rubber tree plants can reach 40 to 100 feet in height. When using this plant as an outdoor ornamental, pruning limbs and the top of the plant make it sturdier and more compact.
Rubber Plant Information for Northern Areas
If you live in a more northern area and want to grow outdoor rubber tree plants, plant them in a container. Taking care of a rubber plant growing in a container can include locating them outdoors during seasons of warm temperatures. Optimum temperatures for taking care of a rubber plant outdoors are 65 to 80 F. (18-27 C.) Outdoors, plants acclimated to cooler temperatures should be brought indoors before temperatures reach 30 F. (-1 C.).
Taking Care of a Rubber Plant Outdoors
Rubber plant information suggests plants require deep watering and then allow the soil to dry out almost completely. Some sources say containerized plants should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Still other sources say the drying of the soil causes leaves to drop. Keep an eye on your rubber tree growing outdoors and use good judgment on watering, depending on its location.
Can You Grow Rubber Plants Outside?
Gardeners in USDA Hardiness Zones 10 and 11 can grow the plant outdoors, according to most rubber plant information. Outdoor rubber tree plants (Ficus elastica) may grow in Zone 9 if winter protection is offered. In this area, outdoor rubber tree plants should be planted on the north or east side of a building for protection from the wind. When the plant is young, prune it to a single trunk, as these plants tend to split when caught in the wind.
Rubber plant information also says to plant the tree in a shady area, although some plants accept light, dappled shade. Thick, glabrous leaves burn easily when exposed to sunlight. Those living in tropical zones outside of the United States can grow outdoor rubber tree plants easily, as this is their native environment. In the wild, outdoor rubber tree plants can reach 40 to 100 feet in height. When using this plant as an outdoor ornamental, pruning limbs and the top of the plant make it sturdier and more compact.
Rubber Plant Information for Northern Areas
If you live in a more northern area and want to grow outdoor rubber tree plants, plant them in a container. Taking care of a rubber plant growing in a container can include locating them outdoors during seasons of warm temperatures. Optimum temperatures for taking care of a rubber plant outdoors are 65 to 80 F. (18-27 C.) Outdoors, plants acclimated to cooler temperatures should be brought indoors before temperatures reach 30 F. (-1 C.).
Taking Care of a Rubber Plant Outdoors
Rubber plant information suggests plants require deep watering and then allow the soil to dry out almost completely. Some sources say containerized plants should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. Still other sources say the drying of the soil causes leaves to drop. Keep an eye on your rubber tree growing outdoors and use good judgment on watering, depending on its location.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
A rubber tree plant is also known as a Ficus elastica. These large trees can grow up to 50 feet tall. When learning how to care for a rubber tree plant, there are a few key things to remember, but rubber plant care isn’t as difficult as one might think. Starting with a young rubber tree houseplant will allow it to adapt to being an indoor plant better than starting with a more mature plant.
Proper Light and Water for a Rubber Tree Plant
When it comes to rubber plant care, the correct balance of water and light is crucial, as with any plant. You can control the amount of light and water it gets, which is important because they shouldn’t have too much of either.
Light
When you have a rubber tree houseplant, it needs bright light but prefers indirect light that isn’t too hot. Some people recommend putting it near a window that has sheer curtains. This allows plenty of light, but not too much.
Water
The rubber tree plant also needs the right balance of water. During the growing season, it needs to be kept moist. It is also a good idea to wipe off the leaves of your rubber tree houseplant with a damp cloth or spritz it with water. If you water the rubber tree plant too much, the leaves will turn yellow and brown and fall off. During the dormant season, it may only need watered once or twice a month. If the leaves begin to droop, but not fall off, increase the water you give the rubber tree houseplant gradually until the leaves perk back up again.
Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Once you know how to care for a rubber tree plant and it is growing well, you can begin the propagation of indoor rubber tree plants. In order to promote new leaves on a current rubber tree houseplant, cut a slit in the node where a leaf fell off. This will allow a new leaf to grow quicker. There are a couple different methods for creating new rubber tree plant cuttings. The simplest is to take a small branch from a healthy tree and put it in good potting soil or water and let it root. Another method, called air layering, is where you make a cut in a healthy rubber tree houseplant, put a toothpick in the hole, then pack damp moss around the cut. After that, you wrap it with plastic wrap to keep the moisture level higher. Once roots begin to appear, cut the branch off and plant. All these things will lead to successful rubber plant care.
Proper Light and Water for a Rubber Tree Plant
When it comes to rubber plant care, the correct balance of water and light is crucial, as with any plant. You can control the amount of light and water it gets, which is important because they shouldn’t have too much of either.
Light
When you have a rubber tree houseplant, it needs bright light but prefers indirect light that isn’t too hot. Some people recommend putting it near a window that has sheer curtains. This allows plenty of light, but not too much.
Water
The rubber tree plant also needs the right balance of water. During the growing season, it needs to be kept moist. It is also a good idea to wipe off the leaves of your rubber tree houseplant with a damp cloth or spritz it with water. If you water the rubber tree plant too much, the leaves will turn yellow and brown and fall off. During the dormant season, it may only need watered once or twice a month. If the leaves begin to droop, but not fall off, increase the water you give the rubber tree houseplant gradually until the leaves perk back up again.
Propagation of a Rubber Tree Plant
Once you know how to care for a rubber tree plant and it is growing well, you can begin the propagation of indoor rubber tree plants. In order to promote new leaves on a current rubber tree houseplant, cut a slit in the node where a leaf fell off. This will allow a new leaf to grow quicker. There are a couple different methods for creating new rubber tree plant cuttings. The simplest is to take a small branch from a healthy tree and put it in good potting soil or water and let it root. Another method, called air layering, is where you make a cut in a healthy rubber tree houseplant, put a toothpick in the hole, then pack damp moss around the cut. After that, you wrap it with plastic wrap to keep the moisture level higher. Once roots begin to appear, cut the branch off and plant. All these things will lead to successful rubber plant care.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
There are many “footed” ferns which produce fuzzy rhizomes that grow outside the pot. These are generally grown as indoor plants. Rabbit’s foot fern doesn’t mind being pot bound but you should give it fresh soil every couple years. Repotting can be a challenge with all the little feet hanging around the original pot so read here for a step-by-step tutorial on how to repot a rabbit’s foot fern. Davallia fejeensis is the botanical name of the rabbit’s foot fern (Humata tyermanii or white paw fern, is a similar plant). These charming plants produce soft silvery growth off the base of the plant that stream down the outside of the pot. The growths are actually above ground rhizomes and can be used to start entirely new ferns. In mature plants, these rhizomes will literally coat the outside of a container and cascade down over a hanging pot. Don’t worry if you break one off during rabbit’s foot fern repotting, as you can simply root it for another of these wonderful plants.
When to Repot Rabbit’s Foot Ferns
Timing is everything, and this is the case when to repot rabbit’s foot ferns. As with most plants, the best time to disturb it in any way is when the plant is dormant. This goes for repotting, trimming or training. It is a little harder to tell when indoor plants are dormant but, basically, it is when no new growth is being produced. Usually, this is in winter when it is cooler and light levels are lower. However, this is a very forgiving plant and repotting a rabbit’s foot fern at any time of the year is fine as long as it is not exposed to any extreme stresses such as temperature fluctuations.
How to Repot a Rabbit’s Foot Fern
Choose a lightweight pot if you are creating a hanging planter. The size of the pot should be just slightly larger than the base of the plant. These ferns enjoy being crowded. Removing the fern from the existing pot is the trick. If it is a cheap nursery pot, you can cut the plant out to liberate it. Otherwise, use a hori hori or slender planting tool to gently pry around the inside of the pot and loosen the soil. The bottom of the pot may also have roots growing outside. Loosen these and, if necessary, cut off those that have wound around the drainage holes. Don’t worry, there are plenty of roots still to sustain the plant and it won’t damage the fern. Use a potting mix with little to no soil such as 2 parts peat, 1 part soil and 1 part sand or perlite. You may decide to divide the fern if it has gotten too large. Cut it into up to 4 sections with a sharp, clean knife. Plant in the new soil with the rhizomes balanced around the edge of the pot. Water well.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Repotting of Rhizomes
Root any of the fuzzy little rhizomes that may have broken off during repotting. Use a flat tray or small pots filled with perlite that is just slightly moistened. Bury the rhizome completely in this medium and cover the container with plastic wrap to create greenhouse conditions. Place the container in a warm location and keep evenly moist. Remove the plastic wrap once per day to give the plant air and prevent mildew. Within a few weeks, the rhizome will produce little green leaves which signal the complete removal of the plastic. Do no fertilize for a month after repotting a rabbit’s foot fern.
When to Repot Rabbit’s Foot Ferns
Timing is everything, and this is the case when to repot rabbit’s foot ferns. As with most plants, the best time to disturb it in any way is when the plant is dormant. This goes for repotting, trimming or training. It is a little harder to tell when indoor plants are dormant but, basically, it is when no new growth is being produced. Usually, this is in winter when it is cooler and light levels are lower. However, this is a very forgiving plant and repotting a rabbit’s foot fern at any time of the year is fine as long as it is not exposed to any extreme stresses such as temperature fluctuations.
How to Repot a Rabbit’s Foot Fern
Choose a lightweight pot if you are creating a hanging planter. The size of the pot should be just slightly larger than the base of the plant. These ferns enjoy being crowded. Removing the fern from the existing pot is the trick. If it is a cheap nursery pot, you can cut the plant out to liberate it. Otherwise, use a hori hori or slender planting tool to gently pry around the inside of the pot and loosen the soil. The bottom of the pot may also have roots growing outside. Loosen these and, if necessary, cut off those that have wound around the drainage holes. Don’t worry, there are plenty of roots still to sustain the plant and it won’t damage the fern. Use a potting mix with little to no soil such as 2 parts peat, 1 part soil and 1 part sand or perlite. You may decide to divide the fern if it has gotten too large. Cut it into up to 4 sections with a sharp, clean knife. Plant in the new soil with the rhizomes balanced around the edge of the pot. Water well.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Repotting of Rhizomes
Root any of the fuzzy little rhizomes that may have broken off during repotting. Use a flat tray or small pots filled with perlite that is just slightly moistened. Bury the rhizome completely in this medium and cover the container with plastic wrap to create greenhouse conditions. Place the container in a warm location and keep evenly moist. Remove the plastic wrap once per day to give the plant air and prevent mildew. Within a few weeks, the rhizome will produce little green leaves which signal the complete removal of the plastic. Do no fertilize for a month after repotting a rabbit’s foot fern.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
The rabbit’s foot fern plant gets its name from the furry rhizomes that grow on top of the soil and resemble a rabbit’s foot. The rhizomes often grow over the side of the pot, adding an extra dimension to the plant. Functional as well as decorative, the rhizomes absorb moisture and nutrients as they crawl across the moist soil. Growing a rabbit’s foot fern houseplant in a hanging basket shows off the furry rhizomes to their best advantage. The rhizomes can grow quite long and over time they take on a spider-like appearance. Never bury the rhizomes under the soil however, as this encourages rot.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Care
As with any houseplant, care of rabbit’s foot fern includes providing adequate light, proper moisture and temperature, and regular fertilization. Even with the best of care, you may occasionally lose some of the older fronds. This is normal and not an indication that you have done anything wrong. Rabbit’s foot ferns like bright but indirect sunlight, such as that found near a window with an eastern exposure. During the day they like temperatures between 70 and 75 F. (21-24 C.), and slightly cooler temperatures at night. Water the plants lightly but often to keep the surface of the soil lightly moist. Daily misting helps keep the surface rhizomes from drying out. Every two weeks, your rabbit’s foot fern care should also include watering the plant with a liquid houseplant fertilizer mixed at half strength. Rabbit’s foot ferns need repotting about every two years, and the best time to repot is in spring. Mix regular potting soil half-and-half with sand to create an ideal medium for rabbit’s foot ferns. This is an excellent time to divide large plants.
Special Needs for Rabbit’s Foot Fern Plant
Known botanically as Davallia fejeensis ferns, rabbit’s foot ferns have light, airy foliage compared to their cousins, the deer’s foot ferns (D. canariensis) and the squirrel’s foot ferns (D. trichomanoides). Light foliage doesn’t hold moisture as well as thick foliage, so the plants need frequent misting and an occasional shower to keep them from drying out.
A rabbit’s foot fern plant is very sensitive to chemicals. Avoid using leaf shine products and insecticides on the plant. A gentle shower keeps the fronds looking clean and fresh and also removes many of the insects that feed on the foliage. Tobacco smoke, scented candles and most forms of air pollution also harm the plant.
Though it may need a little more maintenance than other plants in the home, growing a rabbit’s foot fern houseplant is a great way to enjoy this unusual, furry-footed oddity.
Rabbit’s Foot Fern Care
As with any houseplant, care of rabbit’s foot fern includes providing adequate light, proper moisture and temperature, and regular fertilization. Even with the best of care, you may occasionally lose some of the older fronds. This is normal and not an indication that you have done anything wrong. Rabbit’s foot ferns like bright but indirect sunlight, such as that found near a window with an eastern exposure. During the day they like temperatures between 70 and 75 F. (21-24 C.), and slightly cooler temperatures at night. Water the plants lightly but often to keep the surface of the soil lightly moist. Daily misting helps keep the surface rhizomes from drying out. Every two weeks, your rabbit’s foot fern care should also include watering the plant with a liquid houseplant fertilizer mixed at half strength. Rabbit’s foot ferns need repotting about every two years, and the best time to repot is in spring. Mix regular potting soil half-and-half with sand to create an ideal medium for rabbit’s foot ferns. This is an excellent time to divide large plants.
Special Needs for Rabbit’s Foot Fern Plant
Known botanically as Davallia fejeensis ferns, rabbit’s foot ferns have light, airy foliage compared to their cousins, the deer’s foot ferns (D. canariensis) and the squirrel’s foot ferns (D. trichomanoides). Light foliage doesn’t hold moisture as well as thick foliage, so the plants need frequent misting and an occasional shower to keep them from drying out.
A rabbit’s foot fern plant is very sensitive to chemicals. Avoid using leaf shine products and insecticides on the plant. A gentle shower keeps the fronds looking clean and fresh and also removes many of the insects that feed on the foliage. Tobacco smoke, scented candles and most forms of air pollution also harm the plant.
Though it may need a little more maintenance than other plants in the home, growing a rabbit’s foot fern houseplant is a great way to enjoy this unusual, furry-footed oddity.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Gardeners seeking a palm tree specimen to accent the garden or home will want to know how to grow the pygmy date palm tree. Pygmy palm growing is relatively simple given suitable conditions, though pruning pygmy palm trees is sometimes necessary to keep its growth manageable, especially in smaller settings.
Pygmy Date Palm Information
More significant than its name implies, the pygmy date palm tree (Phoenix roebelenii) is a member of the family Arecaceae, a huge group with over 2,600 species found in tropical and subtropical climates of the world. Pygmy palm growing is used in a variety of interiorscapes and commercial plantings due to its graceful form and height of 6 to 10 feet.
Pygmy date palm information allows that this particular genus is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Its genus, Phoenix, encompasses only a small portion of the Arecaceae family counted at about 17 species. Pygmy date palm trees have small, yellow hued flowers, which give way to tiny purplish dates born on a thin solitary trunk with deep green fronds forming a crown. Insignificant thorns also grow on the leaf stalks.
How to Grow Pygmy Date Palm Trees
This palm tree hails from Southeast Asia and, therefore, thrives in USDA zones 10-11, which mimic conditions found in those areas of Asia. In USDA zones 10-11, temperatures do not routinely dip below 30 F. (-1 C.); however, the tree has been known to survive in USDA zone 9b (20 to 30 degrees F. or -6 to -1 C.) without significant frost protection. That said, the pygmy palms may do well as a container specimen on a deck or patio during the summer months in the Midwest, but will need to be overwintered indoors before the first frost. Pygmy date palm trees grow along riverbanks with sun to partial shade exposure and, hence, require significant irrigation and rich organic soil to truly flourish.
Care for a Pygmy Date Palm
To care for a pygmy date palm, be sure to maintain a regular watering schedule and plant this tree in sandy, well-drained soil in an area of sun all the way to full shade. When grown in soil with a pH over 7, the tree may develop magnesium or potassium deficiency with symptoms of chlorotic or spotted fronds. Pygmy palms have moderate drought tolerance and are mostly resistant to disease and pests; however, leaf spot and bud rot may afflict this type of palm.
Pruning Pygmy Palm Trees
The up to 6-foot long fronds of the pygmy palm tree may occasionally need reining in. Pruning pygmy palm trees is not a daunting task and merely requires periodical removal of aged or diseased foliage. Other maintenance of the tree may include some clean up of spent leaves or removal of offshoots as the propagation method for this palm is via seed dispersal.
Pygmy Date Palm Information
More significant than its name implies, the pygmy date palm tree (Phoenix roebelenii) is a member of the family Arecaceae, a huge group with over 2,600 species found in tropical and subtropical climates of the world. Pygmy palm growing is used in a variety of interiorscapes and commercial plantings due to its graceful form and height of 6 to 10 feet.
Pygmy date palm information allows that this particular genus is known as a date palm due to its often sweet, sugary fruit pulp found in some species of Arecaceae. Its genus, Phoenix, encompasses only a small portion of the Arecaceae family counted at about 17 species. Pygmy date palm trees have small, yellow hued flowers, which give way to tiny purplish dates born on a thin solitary trunk with deep green fronds forming a crown. Insignificant thorns also grow on the leaf stalks.
How to Grow Pygmy Date Palm Trees
This palm tree hails from Southeast Asia and, therefore, thrives in USDA zones 10-11, which mimic conditions found in those areas of Asia. In USDA zones 10-11, temperatures do not routinely dip below 30 F. (-1 C.); however, the tree has been known to survive in USDA zone 9b (20 to 30 degrees F. or -6 to -1 C.) without significant frost protection. That said, the pygmy palms may do well as a container specimen on a deck or patio during the summer months in the Midwest, but will need to be overwintered indoors before the first frost. Pygmy date palm trees grow along riverbanks with sun to partial shade exposure and, hence, require significant irrigation and rich organic soil to truly flourish.
Care for a Pygmy Date Palm
To care for a pygmy date palm, be sure to maintain a regular watering schedule and plant this tree in sandy, well-drained soil in an area of sun all the way to full shade. When grown in soil with a pH over 7, the tree may develop magnesium or potassium deficiency with symptoms of chlorotic or spotted fronds. Pygmy palms have moderate drought tolerance and are mostly resistant to disease and pests; however, leaf spot and bud rot may afflict this type of palm.
Pruning Pygmy Palm Trees
The up to 6-foot long fronds of the pygmy palm tree may occasionally need reining in. Pruning pygmy palm trees is not a daunting task and merely requires periodical removal of aged or diseased foliage. Other maintenance of the tree may include some clean up of spent leaves or removal of offshoots as the propagation method for this palm is via seed dispersal.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Most people are familiar with how to grow prayer plants. The prayer plant (Maranta leuconeura) is easy to grow but has specific needs. Keep reading to learn what those needs are.
How to Grow a Prayer Plant
Although prayer plant houseplant is somewhat tolerant of low light conditions, it does best in bright, indirect sunlight. The prayer plant prefers well-drained soil and requires high humidity to thrive. Prayer plant houseplants should be kept moist, but not soggy. Use warm water and feed prayer plant houseplants every two weeks, from spring through fall, with an all-purpose fertilizer. During winter dormancy, the soil should be kept drier. Keep in mind, however, that dry air can also be a problem in winter; therefore, placing the prayer plant among several houseplants can help create more humid conditions, misting daily with warm water. Placing a bowl of water near the plant or setting its container on top of a shallow dish of pebbles and water is also helpful. However, do not allow the prayer plant to sit directly in water. Ideal temperatures for the prayer plant are between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Prayer Plant Propagation
Repot in early spring, at which time prayer plant propagation can be accomplished by division. Use ordinary potting soil when repotting the prayer plant. Stem cuttings can also be taken from spring to early summer. Take cuttings just below the nodes closest to the bottom of the stem. Cuttings can be placed in a mixture of moist peat and perlite and covered with plastic to retain moisture levels. You may want to poke a few air holes in the plastic to allow for adequate ventilation as well. Place the cuttings in a sunny location. If a piece of prayer plant has broken off, dip the broken end into rooting hormone and place it in distilled water. Change the water every other day. Wait until the roots are about an inch long before taking it out to place in soil. Keep in mind with prayer plant propagation that there needs to be a least a small portion of stem on the leaves in order for the piece to take root. Alternatively, the piece can be rooted directly in soil, as with cuttings.
Prayer Plant Pest Problems
Since prayer plant houseplants may be prone to pests such as spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, it is a good idea to inspect new plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors. You may also want to occasionally check prayer plant houseplants as an added precaution during watering or feeding intervals for any problems that may arise.
Learning how to grow a prayer plant is easy and its rewards well worth any issues you may come across along the way.
How to Grow a Prayer Plant
Although prayer plant houseplant is somewhat tolerant of low light conditions, it does best in bright, indirect sunlight. The prayer plant prefers well-drained soil and requires high humidity to thrive. Prayer plant houseplants should be kept moist, but not soggy. Use warm water and feed prayer plant houseplants every two weeks, from spring through fall, with an all-purpose fertilizer. During winter dormancy, the soil should be kept drier. Keep in mind, however, that dry air can also be a problem in winter; therefore, placing the prayer plant among several houseplants can help create more humid conditions, misting daily with warm water. Placing a bowl of water near the plant or setting its container on top of a shallow dish of pebbles and water is also helpful. However, do not allow the prayer plant to sit directly in water. Ideal temperatures for the prayer plant are between 60 and 80 F. (16-27 C.).
Prayer Plant Propagation
Repot in early spring, at which time prayer plant propagation can be accomplished by division. Use ordinary potting soil when repotting the prayer plant. Stem cuttings can also be taken from spring to early summer. Take cuttings just below the nodes closest to the bottom of the stem. Cuttings can be placed in a mixture of moist peat and perlite and covered with plastic to retain moisture levels. You may want to poke a few air holes in the plastic to allow for adequate ventilation as well. Place the cuttings in a sunny location. If a piece of prayer plant has broken off, dip the broken end into rooting hormone and place it in distilled water. Change the water every other day. Wait until the roots are about an inch long before taking it out to place in soil. Keep in mind with prayer plant propagation that there needs to be a least a small portion of stem on the leaves in order for the piece to take root. Alternatively, the piece can be rooted directly in soil, as with cuttings.
Prayer Plant Pest Problems
Since prayer plant houseplants may be prone to pests such as spider mites, mealybugs and aphids, it is a good idea to inspect new plants thoroughly before bringing them indoors. You may also want to occasionally check prayer plant houseplants as an added precaution during watering or feeding intervals for any problems that may arise.
Learning how to grow a prayer plant is easy and its rewards well worth any issues you may come across along the way.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Every healthy houseplant eventually needs repotting, and your exotic pitcher plants are no different. The soilless mix that your plant lives in will eventually compact and shrink, leaving little room for the roots to grow. If you’re wondering, “When do I repot a pitcher plant?” every one to two years is the best interval. Learn how to repot pitcher plants and your carnivorous collection will enjoy roomy new homes. 
When Do I Repot a Pitcher Plant?
Pitcher plants, like other plants, do best when you repot them early in the spring before they have a chance to produce new growth. When your plant is still dormant, right before the spring arrives, remove it from its pot and gently remove as much planting medium as you can using a chopstick or other small object.
Make a new potting mixture of ½ cup of sand, ½ cup of washed charcoal, 1 cup of sphagnum moss and 1 cup of peat moss. Mix the ingredients together thoroughly. Stand the pitcher plant in a new plastic planter and gently drop planting mix into the pot to cover the roots. Tap the planter on the table to settle the mix, then add more on top. Water the mix to remove any air pockets, and top off the mix if needed.
Pitcher Plant Care
Pitcher plant care is relatively simple if you give them the right growing conditions. Always use plastic planters, as terra cotta ones will absorb salts too quickly. Once you have repotted the plants, place them in dappled sunlight or behind sheer curtains. Keep the potting mix moist at all times, but never let the pot stand in water or the plant may develop root rot.
Pitcher plants only need one or two insects a month, but if your plant hasn’t been lucky lately, give it a small, freshly-killed bug once a month to add nutrients.
When Do I Repot a Pitcher Plant?
Pitcher plants, like other plants, do best when you repot them early in the spring before they have a chance to produce new growth. When your plant is still dormant, right before the spring arrives, remove it from its pot and gently remove as much planting medium as you can using a chopstick or other small object.
Make a new potting mixture of ½ cup of sand, ½ cup of washed charcoal, 1 cup of sphagnum moss and 1 cup of peat moss. Mix the ingredients together thoroughly. Stand the pitcher plant in a new plastic planter and gently drop planting mix into the pot to cover the roots. Tap the planter on the table to settle the mix, then add more on top. Water the mix to remove any air pockets, and top off the mix if needed.
Pitcher Plant Care
Pitcher plant care is relatively simple if you give them the right growing conditions. Always use plastic planters, as terra cotta ones will absorb salts too quickly. Once you have repotted the plants, place them in dappled sunlight or behind sheer curtains. Keep the potting mix moist at all times, but never let the pot stand in water or the plant may develop root rot.
Pitcher plants only need one or two insects a month, but if your plant hasn’t been lucky lately, give it a small, freshly-killed bug once a month to add nutrients.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
When people ask how to transplant a ponytail palm tree (Beaucarnea recurvata), the most important factor is the size of the tree. If you grow small ponytail palms in pots, or grow them as bonsai plants, swapping out the pot is not a complex procedure. However, ponytail palms grown in the ground, or in large pots, can reach 18 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Transplanting large ponytail palms is a very different matter than moving a small one into a slightly bigger pot. Read on to learn about ponytail palm replanting.
Can I Replant My Ponytail Palm?
It is entirely possible to repot or transplant a ponytail palm, no matter how large it is. You can undertake ponytail palm replanting yourself, as long as you follow the general guidelines. Transplanting large ponytail palms, however, requires the assistance of many strong arms and even a tractor. If you have a potted ponytail palm, consider well before moving it to a bigger pot. Potted ponytail palms are happiest when root bound. If you are trying to grow it as a bonsai, repotting may not be a good idea since ponytail palm replanting encourages the plant to grow bigger.
When to Move Ponytail Palms
Knowing when to move ponytail palms is important to the transplant effort. The best time to repot or transplant a ponytail palm is in early spring or summer. This gives the plant many months to establish new roots before winter chill sets in.
How to Transplant a Ponytail Palm Tree in a Pot
If you decide your potted palm needs a little more root room, you need to figure out how to transplant a ponytail palm tree. Small ponytail palms grown in containers are fairly easy to move to bigger pots. First, remove the plant from its pot by sliding a flat instrument, like a dinner knife, around the inside of the container. Once the plant is out of the pot, wash the roots in running water to remove the soil. Inspect the roots. If any roots are damaged or rotted, clip them back. Also, trim out as any root section with insects. Trim back big, older roots, then apply a rooting hormone to those roots that are left. Repot the plant in a slightly larger container. Use soil made up of half potting soil and half a mix of perlite, vermiculite, shredded bark and sand.
Transplanting Large Ponytail Palms
You’ll need help in the form of strong human beings if you are transplanting large ponytail palms. Depending on the size of the plant, you may also need a crane and tractor. You’ll need to dig a moat around the tree some 20 inches out from the bulb area at its base. Continue digging until you are below the main part of the root system. Slide a shovel under the rootball to sever any small descending roots. Use strong assistants – and perhaps a crane – to lift the tree, root ball and all, from the hole. Transport it by tractor to its new location. Place the root ball in the new hole at about the same depth as in the prior hole. Water the plant in, then withhold additional water until the plant is established in its new location.
Can I Replant My Ponytail Palm?
It is entirely possible to repot or transplant a ponytail palm, no matter how large it is. You can undertake ponytail palm replanting yourself, as long as you follow the general guidelines. Transplanting large ponytail palms, however, requires the assistance of many strong arms and even a tractor. If you have a potted ponytail palm, consider well before moving it to a bigger pot. Potted ponytail palms are happiest when root bound. If you are trying to grow it as a bonsai, repotting may not be a good idea since ponytail palm replanting encourages the plant to grow bigger.
When to Move Ponytail Palms
Knowing when to move ponytail palms is important to the transplant effort. The best time to repot or transplant a ponytail palm is in early spring or summer. This gives the plant many months to establish new roots before winter chill sets in.
How to Transplant a Ponytail Palm Tree in a Pot
If you decide your potted palm needs a little more root room, you need to figure out how to transplant a ponytail palm tree. Small ponytail palms grown in containers are fairly easy to move to bigger pots. First, remove the plant from its pot by sliding a flat instrument, like a dinner knife, around the inside of the container. Once the plant is out of the pot, wash the roots in running water to remove the soil. Inspect the roots. If any roots are damaged or rotted, clip them back. Also, trim out as any root section with insects. Trim back big, older roots, then apply a rooting hormone to those roots that are left. Repot the plant in a slightly larger container. Use soil made up of half potting soil and half a mix of perlite, vermiculite, shredded bark and sand.
Transplanting Large Ponytail Palms
You’ll need help in the form of strong human beings if you are transplanting large ponytail palms. Depending on the size of the plant, you may also need a crane and tractor. You’ll need to dig a moat around the tree some 20 inches out from the bulb area at its base. Continue digging until you are below the main part of the root system. Slide a shovel under the rootball to sever any small descending roots. Use strong assistants – and perhaps a crane – to lift the tree, root ball and all, from the hole. Transport it by tractor to its new location. Place the root ball in the new hole at about the same depth as in the prior hole. Water the plant in, then withhold additional water until the plant is established in its new location.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Some indoor plant enthusiasts think pitcher plants are easy to grow, while others believe the carnivorous plants are headaches waiting to happen. The truth is somewhere in the middle, and for the most part, pitcher plants are happy if you can meet their needs for water, light and humidity. If you’re having carnivorous plant problems, such as a pitcher plant not making pitchers, it may require some troubleshooting to determine the problem. Read on for helpful tips.
My Pitcher Plant Has No Pitchers!
How to get pitchers on pitcher plants? Be patient, as pitcher plants take time to develop the first pitcher. Oftentimes, if the plant looks healthy and the tendrils are developing, a little time is all it needs. You’ll probably notice pitchers before you know it!
How to Get Pitchers on Pitcher Plants
If your plant doesn’t seem to be thriving in addition to not developing pitchers, the following tips will help with fixing pitcher plant problems: Light – Most pitcher plant varieties need at least three to four hours of bright sunlight per day. Failure to produce pitchers is an indication that the plant isn’t receiving adequate light. However, although the light should be bright, it should be indirect and not too intense. If the leaves are turning yellow, the plant may be getting a little too much light. Experimentation will help you determine the right amount of light for your plant. Water and potting mix – Pitcher plants don’t appreciate the minerals and additives in tap water. If possible, give them only filtered or distilled water. Better yet, collect rainwater and use it to water your pitcher plant. Water the pitcher plant whenever the top of the potting mix feels dry. The potting mix should never be bone dry, nor should it be soggy or waterlogged. Use a well-drained, low-nutrient potting mix such as a mix consisting of half sphagnum moss and half perlite, vermiculite or lava rock. Humidity – Although requirements vary depending on the species, most types of pitcher plants prefer relatively high humidity; excessively dry air can cause the plant not to develop pitchers. Mist the plant regularly or increase the humidity in your home with a humidifier. An easy way to increase the humidity around the plant is to place the pot on a humidity tray. Just place a layer of pebbles on a tray, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add just enough water to keep the pebbles wet, but be sure the pot is sitting on the pebbles but not standing in water. The plant will rot if water seeps up through the drainage hole.
Feeding – Pitcher plants require very little supplemental fertilizer, but they do benefit from a light feeding of an acidic fertilizer. Mix 1/8 teaspoon of acid fertilizer with 1 quart of water, or use a fertilizer formulated for orchids. Avoid over-feeding. Too much fertilizer can create a lush plant with no pitchers.
My Pitcher Plant Has No Pitchers!
How to get pitchers on pitcher plants? Be patient, as pitcher plants take time to develop the first pitcher. Oftentimes, if the plant looks healthy and the tendrils are developing, a little time is all it needs. You’ll probably notice pitchers before you know it!
How to Get Pitchers on Pitcher Plants
If your plant doesn’t seem to be thriving in addition to not developing pitchers, the following tips will help with fixing pitcher plant problems: Light – Most pitcher plant varieties need at least three to four hours of bright sunlight per day. Failure to produce pitchers is an indication that the plant isn’t receiving adequate light. However, although the light should be bright, it should be indirect and not too intense. If the leaves are turning yellow, the plant may be getting a little too much light. Experimentation will help you determine the right amount of light for your plant. Water and potting mix – Pitcher plants don’t appreciate the minerals and additives in tap water. If possible, give them only filtered or distilled water. Better yet, collect rainwater and use it to water your pitcher plant. Water the pitcher plant whenever the top of the potting mix feels dry. The potting mix should never be bone dry, nor should it be soggy or waterlogged. Use a well-drained, low-nutrient potting mix such as a mix consisting of half sphagnum moss and half perlite, vermiculite or lava rock. Humidity – Although requirements vary depending on the species, most types of pitcher plants prefer relatively high humidity; excessively dry air can cause the plant not to develop pitchers. Mist the plant regularly or increase the humidity in your home with a humidifier. An easy way to increase the humidity around the plant is to place the pot on a humidity tray. Just place a layer of pebbles on a tray, then set the pot on the pebbles. Add just enough water to keep the pebbles wet, but be sure the pot is sitting on the pebbles but not standing in water. The plant will rot if water seeps up through the drainage hole.
Feeding – Pitcher plants require very little supplemental fertilizer, but they do benefit from a light feeding of an acidic fertilizer. Mix 1/8 teaspoon of acid fertilizer with 1 quart of water, or use a fertilizer formulated for orchids. Avoid over-feeding. Too much fertilizer can create a lush plant with no pitchers.
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Misspgy：You Are brave
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Pitcher plants have the appearance of an exotic, rare plant but they are actually native to parts of the United States. They grow in parts of Mississippi and Louisiana where soils are poor and nutrient levels must be acquired from other sources. The plants are carnivorous and have fleshy funnels or tubes that function as traps for insects and small animals. Growing pitcher plants as indoor plants is common, but raising them outdoors requires a little know-how. Learn how to grow a pitcher plant for an interesting conversation piece in the home interior or exterior garden.
Types of Pitcher Plants
There are around 80 types of pitcher plants found in the genus names Sarracenia, Nepenthes and Darlingtonia. Not all of these are suitable for outdoor growing, as Nepenthes are tropical pitcher plants, but purple pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea) has a zonal tolerance of 2 to 9 and is exceptionally adaptable to a wide range of areas. The northern pitcher plant is another name for the purple type and grows wild in Canada. It is suited for temperate to cool regions. Yellow pitcher plant (Sarracenia flava) is found in Texas and boggy parts of Florida. Parrot pitcher (Sarracenia psittacina) and the green spotted pitcher (syn. yellow pitcher plant) are warm season plants. Both are found on the endangered species list and are not available for sale. They should not be harvested from the wild either. Cobra pitcher plants (Darlingtonia californica) are native only to extreme northern California and southern Oregon. They are also more difficult to grow. Growing pitcher plants should start with a species that is native to your region or adaptable to the climate where you live.
How to Grow a Pitcher Plant
Growing pitcher plants is easy as long as you pay attention to some key items. Pitcher plant’s unusual shape and carnivorous habit are the result of nutrient deficiencies in their native soil. The regions where they grow are nitrogen deprived so the plant catches insects to harvest their nitrogen. Growing pitcher plants outdoors and pitcher plant care starts with the site and soil. They do not need rich organic soil but do need a medium that drains well. Potted pitcher plants need to be in well-drained soils. Use any type of pot for indoor plants and provide a low fertility mixture in which the plants will grow. For instance, the potted pitcher plant thrives in a mixture of peat moss, bark and vermiculite. The pot can be small and they can even do well in a terrarium. Outdoor specimens live in slightly acidic soils. Pitcher plants must be kept wet and can even grow in water gardens. The plants need boggy, moist soil and will perform well at the margins of a pond or bog garden. Pitcher plants thrive in full sun to light shade.
Care of Pitcher Plants
Caring for pitcher plants is minimal. The best temperature for pitcher plants that are grown inside is between 60 and 70 F. (16-21 C.). Indoor plants should be fertilized at the start of the growing season with a good orchid food and every month until fall. Most of the plant’s nutrient needs come from the insects they catch in the pitcher shaped organs. Because of this, the care of pitcher plants outdoors does not require much fertilization. Outdoor plants will naturally lose some of the pitcher shaped leaves. Cut them off as they die back. New leaves will form from the rosette base. Pitcher plant care also includes protecting plants in the ground from freezes by mounding mulch around the base of the rosette.
Types of Pitcher Plants
There are around 80 types of pitcher plants found in the genus names Sarracenia, Nepenthes and Darlingtonia. Not all of these are suitable for outdoor growing, as Nepenthes are tropical pitcher plants, but purple pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea) has a zonal tolerance of 2 to 9 and is exceptionally adaptable to a wide range of areas. The northern pitcher plant is another name for the purple type and grows wild in Canada. It is suited for temperate to cool regions. Yellow pitcher plant (Sarracenia flava) is found in Texas and boggy parts of Florida. Parrot pitcher (Sarracenia psittacina) and the green spotted pitcher (syn. yellow pitcher plant) are warm season plants. Both are found on the endangered species list and are not available for sale. They should not be harvested from the wild either. Cobra pitcher plants (Darlingtonia californica) are native only to extreme northern California and southern Oregon. They are also more difficult to grow. Growing pitcher plants should start with a species that is native to your region or adaptable to the climate where you live.
How to Grow a Pitcher Plant
Growing pitcher plants is easy as long as you pay attention to some key items. Pitcher plant’s unusual shape and carnivorous habit are the result of nutrient deficiencies in their native soil. The regions where they grow are nitrogen deprived so the plant catches insects to harvest their nitrogen. Growing pitcher plants outdoors and pitcher plant care starts with the site and soil. They do not need rich organic soil but do need a medium that drains well. Potted pitcher plants need to be in well-drained soils. Use any type of pot for indoor plants and provide a low fertility mixture in which the plants will grow. For instance, the potted pitcher plant thrives in a mixture of peat moss, bark and vermiculite. The pot can be small and they can even do well in a terrarium. Outdoor specimens live in slightly acidic soils. Pitcher plants must be kept wet and can even grow in water gardens. The plants need boggy, moist soil and will perform well at the margins of a pond or bog garden. Pitcher plants thrive in full sun to light shade.
Care of Pitcher Plants
Caring for pitcher plants is minimal. The best temperature for pitcher plants that are grown inside is between 60 and 70 F. (16-21 C.). Indoor plants should be fertilized at the start of the growing season with a good orchid food and every month until fall. Most of the plant’s nutrient needs come from the insects they catch in the pitcher shaped organs. Because of this, the care of pitcher plants outdoors does not require much fertilization. Outdoor plants will naturally lose some of the pitcher shaped leaves. Cut them off as they die back. New leaves will form from the rosette base. Pitcher plant care also includes protecting plants in the ground from freezes by mounding mulch around the base of the rosette.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Growing peace lily in an aquarium is an unusual, exotic way to display this deep green, leafy plant. Although you can grow peace lily aquarium plants without fish, many people like to add a betta fish to the aquarium, which makes the underwater environment even more colorful. Read on to learn how to grow peace lilies in fish tanks and aquariums.
Growing Peace Lily in an Aquarium or Container
Select a wide-based aquarium that holds at least a quart of water. Clear glass is best, especially if you plan to add a betta fish. Pet stores sell inexpensive goldfish bowls that work very well. Rinse the container thoroughly, but don’t use soap.
Select a small to medium-size peace lily with a healthy root system. Be sure the diameter of the peace lily is smaller than the opening of the container. If the opening of the aquarium is too crowded, the plant may not receive enough air. You’ll also need a plastic plant tray; craft knife or scissors; decorative rock, pebbles or aquarium gravel; a jug of distilled water; large bucket and a betta fish, if you choose. You may also want to add figurines or other decorative accessories.
How to Grow Peace Lilies in Fish Tanks or Aquariums
The first step is to create a lid from the plastic plant tray, as this will serve as a support for the peace lily. Use a sharp craft knife or scissors to trim the plant tray (or similar object) so that it fits snugly into the opening without falling through. Cut a hole in the center of the plastic. The hole should be about the size of a quarter, but probably no larger than a silver dollar, depending on the size of the root mass. Rinse the decorative rocks or gravel thoroughly (again, no soap) and arrange them in the bottom of the aquarium or fish tank. Pour room temperature distilled water into the aquarium, up to about 2 inches from the rim. (You can also use tap water, but be sure to add a water de-chlorinator, which you can purchase at pet stores.) Remove the soil from the roots of the peace lily. Although you can do this in the sink, the easiest method is to fill a large bucket with water, then swish the roots of the lily gently through the water until ALL of the soil is removed. Once the soil has been removed, trim the roots neatly and evenly so they don’t touch the bottom of the aquarium. Feed the roots through the plastic “lid” with the peace lily plant resting on the top and the roots below. (This is where you will add a betta fish, if you choose to do so.) Insert the lid into the fish bowl or aquarium, with the roots dangling into the water.
Care of Peace Lily in Aquariums
Place the aquarium where the peace lily is exposed to low light, such as under a fluorescent light or near a north- or east-facing window. Change one-quarter of the water every week to keep it clear and clean, especially if you decide to add a fish. Avoid flake food, which will cloud the water very quickly. Remove the fish, clean the tank and fill it with fresh water whenever it begins to look brackish – usually every couple of weeks.
Growing Peace Lily in an Aquarium or Container
Select a wide-based aquarium that holds at least a quart of water. Clear glass is best, especially if you plan to add a betta fish. Pet stores sell inexpensive goldfish bowls that work very well. Rinse the container thoroughly, but don’t use soap.
Select a small to medium-size peace lily with a healthy root system. Be sure the diameter of the peace lily is smaller than the opening of the container. If the opening of the aquarium is too crowded, the plant may not receive enough air. You’ll also need a plastic plant tray; craft knife or scissors; decorative rock, pebbles or aquarium gravel; a jug of distilled water; large bucket and a betta fish, if you choose. You may also want to add figurines or other decorative accessories.
How to Grow Peace Lilies in Fish Tanks or Aquariums
The first step is to create a lid from the plastic plant tray, as this will serve as a support for the peace lily. Use a sharp craft knife or scissors to trim the plant tray (or similar object) so that it fits snugly into the opening without falling through. Cut a hole in the center of the plastic. The hole should be about the size of a quarter, but probably no larger than a silver dollar, depending on the size of the root mass. Rinse the decorative rocks or gravel thoroughly (again, no soap) and arrange them in the bottom of the aquarium or fish tank. Pour room temperature distilled water into the aquarium, up to about 2 inches from the rim. (You can also use tap water, but be sure to add a water de-chlorinator, which you can purchase at pet stores.) Remove the soil from the roots of the peace lily. Although you can do this in the sink, the easiest method is to fill a large bucket with water, then swish the roots of the lily gently through the water until ALL of the soil is removed. Once the soil has been removed, trim the roots neatly and evenly so they don’t touch the bottom of the aquarium. Feed the roots through the plastic “lid” with the peace lily plant resting on the top and the roots below. (This is where you will add a betta fish, if you choose to do so.) Insert the lid into the fish bowl or aquarium, with the roots dangling into the water.
Care of Peace Lily in Aquariums
Place the aquarium where the peace lily is exposed to low light, such as under a fluorescent light or near a north- or east-facing window. Change one-quarter of the water every week to keep it clear and clean, especially if you decide to add a fish. Avoid flake food, which will cloud the water very quickly. Remove the fish, clean the tank and fill it with fresh water whenever it begins to look brackish – usually every couple of weeks.
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