文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Lucky bamboo plants (Dracaena sanderiana) are common houseplants, and are fun and easy to grow. Indoors, they can quickly reach a height of 3 feet (91 cm.) or more, prompting gardeners to ask, “Can you prune lucky bamboo?” Fortunately, the answer to that question is a resounding “yes!”—and it is a cinch to do.
Can You Prune Lucky Bamboo Plants?
Lucky bamboo isn’t really a type of bamboo at all, but rather a plant in a genus of trees and shrubs called Dracaena. Because lucky bamboo grows so fast, it has a tendency to become top-heavy, and the extra weight puts stress on the roots and the rest of the plant. Cutting back a lucky bamboo plant invigorates and refreshes it and encourages new growth. If desired, selective lucky bamboo plant pruning can even change the shape of the plant entirely.
When to Prune a Lucky Bamboo Plant
When to prune a lucky bamboo plant depends on the height of the plant. You don’t have to wait until a certain time of year to do the job. You can prune lucky bamboo whenever it gets too large to manage.
Lucky Bamboo Plant Pruning
Using very sharp, sterile pruning shears, cut back any shoots that are thin, overly long, or growing crookedly. The shoots are the stems that have leaves on them. Trim back shoots to a length of 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) from the stalk. This will encourage more shoots to grow from the cut area and will create a denser, bushier look. If you wish to cut back your lucky bamboo more drastically, with the intention to reshape it, you can cut as many shoots as you want flush to the stalk. Usually, new shoots will not regrow from the pruned areas due to the close cuts. Alternatively, you can cut the stalk to the desired height. Because of the possibility of infection, this is riskier than simply trimming shoots away. Plan carefully before you prune and be aware that the stalk will not grow any taller than where you make the cut. Only the new shoots will increase in height. If you take a close look at the stalk of your lucky bamboo plant, you will see clearly defined rings, called nodes, on it. Make your pruning cut just above one of the nodes. Your cuts must be clean and smooth to minimize the chance of infection. There is no need to cut either the shoots or the stalk at an angle. With a little planning and a few choice cuts, pruning lucky bamboo plants is an easy task!
Can You Prune Lucky Bamboo Plants?
Lucky bamboo isn’t really a type of bamboo at all, but rather a plant in a genus of trees and shrubs called Dracaena. Because lucky bamboo grows so fast, it has a tendency to become top-heavy, and the extra weight puts stress on the roots and the rest of the plant. Cutting back a lucky bamboo plant invigorates and refreshes it and encourages new growth. If desired, selective lucky bamboo plant pruning can even change the shape of the plant entirely.
When to Prune a Lucky Bamboo Plant
When to prune a lucky bamboo plant depends on the height of the plant. You don’t have to wait until a certain time of year to do the job. You can prune lucky bamboo whenever it gets too large to manage.
Lucky Bamboo Plant Pruning
Using very sharp, sterile pruning shears, cut back any shoots that are thin, overly long, or growing crookedly. The shoots are the stems that have leaves on them. Trim back shoots to a length of 1 or 2 inches (2.5-5 cm.) from the stalk. This will encourage more shoots to grow from the cut area and will create a denser, bushier look. If you wish to cut back your lucky bamboo more drastically, with the intention to reshape it, you can cut as many shoots as you want flush to the stalk. Usually, new shoots will not regrow from the pruned areas due to the close cuts. Alternatively, you can cut the stalk to the desired height. Because of the possibility of infection, this is riskier than simply trimming shoots away. Plan carefully before you prune and be aware that the stalk will not grow any taller than where you make the cut. Only the new shoots will increase in height. If you take a close look at the stalk of your lucky bamboo plant, you will see clearly defined rings, called nodes, on it. Make your pruning cut just above one of the nodes. Your cuts must be clean and smooth to minimize the chance of infection. There is no need to cut either the shoots or the stalk at an angle. With a little planning and a few choice cuts, pruning lucky bamboo plants is an easy task!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
The indoor panda plant is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Kalanchoe panda plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the décor. Keep reading to answer the question of what is Kalanchoe tormentosa and how to grow a panda plant indoors.
What is a Panda Plant (Kalanchoe Tomentosa)?
More than 100 varieties of Kalanchoe grow in the wilds of Africa and other parts of the Old World. Kalanchoe tomentosa grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Kalanchoe panda plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, panda plant growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet in height and 2 feet around. Further information on growing Kalanchoe panda plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. Tomentosa means densely woolly or velvety. The plant is also commonly called pussy ears as well.
How to Grow a Panda Plant
Locate the indoor panda plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of panda plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink. You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a panda plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor panda plant can live for many years in these conditions. Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of panda plant care.
Propagating Indoor Panda Plant
When you’re growing Kalanchoe panda plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the indoor panda plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants. Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container. Blooms are rare when growing Kalanchoe panda plants indoors. If you wish to grow a Kalanchoe with regular indoor blossoms, look to the cultivar Kalanchoe blossfeldiana hybrids.
What is a Panda Plant (Kalanchoe Tomentosa)?
More than 100 varieties of Kalanchoe grow in the wilds of Africa and other parts of the Old World. Kalanchoe tomentosa grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Kalanchoe panda plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, panda plant growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet in height and 2 feet around. Further information on growing Kalanchoe panda plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. Tomentosa means densely woolly or velvety. The plant is also commonly called pussy ears as well.
How to Grow a Panda Plant
Locate the indoor panda plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of panda plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink. You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a panda plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor panda plant can live for many years in these conditions. Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of panda plant care.
Propagating Indoor Panda Plant
When you’re growing Kalanchoe panda plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the indoor panda plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants. Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container. Blooms are rare when growing Kalanchoe panda plants indoors. If you wish to grow a Kalanchoe with regular indoor blossoms, look to the cultivar Kalanchoe blossfeldiana hybrids.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
It is easy to grow the Kalanchoe chandelier plant — so easy, in fact, you have to learn to control its spread as a part of caring for chandelier plants. Growing Kalanchoe delagoensis can be worth all this trouble when you learn how to keep it under control, especially when the orange blooms appear. Kalanchoe delagoensis, also known as Kalanchoe chandelier or mother of millions (and is often confused with mother of thousands, Kalanchoe daigremontiana), is an upright succulent with creeping tendrils bunching together on a single stem. This offers an unusual effect in the container or even in a portion of the sunny garden. Kalanchoe chandelier is hardy in drought stricken, desert areas where thriving plant life may be limited. This Kalanchoe species can exist on limited seasonal rainfall, storing water for existence due to succulent capabilities.
How to Grow Kalanchoe
For those with more hospitable conditions, learning how to grow Kalanchoe and keep it within bounds may include growing it in a large container or even as a houseplant. While drought and heat resistant, the plant is also adaptable to moist growing conditions and will often recover from a mild winter freeze. Chandelier plant care often includes removing small plants that have jumped from the container into the ground or another pot. This happens because Kalanchoe chandelier forms small plantlets at the ends of the leaves. When these are dislodged, they immediately take root and begin growing in any available soil. Removing them from unwanted areas is an integral part of caring for chandelier plants. Propagating Kalanchoe delagoensis is simple. In the event you don’t have more new starts than you need, new plants can be easily started from almost any part of the mother plant.
Dangers of Growing Kalanchoe Delagoensis
A danger when growing Kalanchoe chandelier is primarily to pets and wildlife because of toxins, called bufadienolides, that can cause heart failure when ingested. Animals not accustomed to the specimen may not realize the potential danger and test the plant for its culinary properties. Some gardeners find the attractive, orange blossoms worth the risk. If you choose to grow this unusual plant in a container or as part of an outdoor display, keep it out of reach of your pets or behind a small fence to discourage harm to your animals and visiting wildlife.
When not properly kept under control, this plant can quickly become invasive in southern parts of the United States and more southern areas, taking area that should be left for native plants. The responsible gardener will practice appropriate chandelier plant care when choosing to grow this specimen. Container growing is often the safest and easiest way to grow this plant. Now that you’ve learned how to grow this Kalanchoe and how to keep it in bounds and under control, make an informed decision before adding it to your landscape.
How to Grow Kalanchoe
For those with more hospitable conditions, learning how to grow Kalanchoe and keep it within bounds may include growing it in a large container or even as a houseplant. While drought and heat resistant, the plant is also adaptable to moist growing conditions and will often recover from a mild winter freeze. Chandelier plant care often includes removing small plants that have jumped from the container into the ground or another pot. This happens because Kalanchoe chandelier forms small plantlets at the ends of the leaves. When these are dislodged, they immediately take root and begin growing in any available soil. Removing them from unwanted areas is an integral part of caring for chandelier plants. Propagating Kalanchoe delagoensis is simple. In the event you don’t have more new starts than you need, new plants can be easily started from almost any part of the mother plant.
Dangers of Growing Kalanchoe Delagoensis
A danger when growing Kalanchoe chandelier is primarily to pets and wildlife because of toxins, called bufadienolides, that can cause heart failure when ingested. Animals not accustomed to the specimen may not realize the potential danger and test the plant for its culinary properties. Some gardeners find the attractive, orange blossoms worth the risk. If you choose to grow this unusual plant in a container or as part of an outdoor display, keep it out of reach of your pets or behind a small fence to discourage harm to your animals and visiting wildlife.
When not properly kept under control, this plant can quickly become invasive in southern parts of the United States and more southern areas, taking area that should be left for native plants. The responsible gardener will practice appropriate chandelier plant care when choosing to grow this specimen. Container growing is often the safest and easiest way to grow this plant. Now that you’ve learned how to grow this Kalanchoe and how to keep it in bounds and under control, make an informed decision before adding it to your landscape.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Kalanchoe plants are thick leaved succulents that are often seen in florist shops or garden centers. Most end up as potted plants but areas that can mimic their native land of Madagascar can grow them outdoors. The clusters of tiny flowers produce a large bloom held aloft on stems above the majority of the foliage. If you wish a second bloom, it is incumbent to know how to take care of a kalanchoe. These plants need short winter light periods to form new buds. Learn how to grow kalanchoe and the perennial can reward you with several seasons of the bright colorful flowers.
About Kalanchoe Plants
The deep green, scalloped leaves of the kalanchoe are just as attractive as the flowers. The sculpted foliage persists after bloom and provides for a handsome plant. The starry flowers are long lasting and bloom in winter to spring. Kalanchoe plants require well-drained soil and mild temperatures of at least 60 F. (16 C.). Little maintenance is necessary for kalanchoe care and the succulent has few disease or pest problems, especially when grown indoors.
How to Grow Kalanchoe Cuttings
Kalanchoe plants are fun to grow from cuttings. The vegetative stems produce the best plants and root quickest. Take a 2- to 3-inch section and strip off the bottom couple of leaves. Let the cutting sit out in a warm, dry location to form a callus on the end. Plant the cutting in pre-moistened peat and perlite up to the first leaf. Enclose the entire pot in plastic to form a little terrarium and conserve the moisture. Place the pot in a bright window with indirect light. Cuttings will root in 14 to 21 days and are then ready to transplant.
How to Take Care of a Kalanchoe
Plants may grow well in southern Florida year round or outside in USDA zones 8 to 10 during the summer months. Kalanchoe care is minimal but be cautious about light levels. Strong southern light can burn the tips of the leaves. Place pots in partial sun to light shade areas when growing kalachoe plants. The best planting mix is 60 percent peat moss and 40 percent perlite. Cut off spent flower stems and pinch back leggy growth to force a compact plant. Water the plant deeply and then allow it to dry out completely before you give it further moisture. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a houseplant food.
Kalanchoe Care for Second Bloom
Although the plant foliage of growing kalanchoe succulent plants is interesting even without blooms, the flowers make the most spectacular display. To force the plant to bloom again, you must fool it into believing it has experienced winter. During October and early March, the day lengths are short enough to naturally force flower buds. In other periods, you will have to put the plant in a closet or dim room for most of the day. Bring it out only for morning light and then put it away after a few hours. The plant needs six weeks of 12 to 14 hour darkness to form spectacular new flowers. The best temperatures for formation of flowers are 40-45 F. (4-7 C.) at night and 60 F. (16 C.) during the day. Kalanchoe care for plants that have begun to form buds is the same as that for flowering plants.
About Kalanchoe Plants
The deep green, scalloped leaves of the kalanchoe are just as attractive as the flowers. The sculpted foliage persists after bloom and provides for a handsome plant. The starry flowers are long lasting and bloom in winter to spring. Kalanchoe plants require well-drained soil and mild temperatures of at least 60 F. (16 C.). Little maintenance is necessary for kalanchoe care and the succulent has few disease or pest problems, especially when grown indoors.
How to Grow Kalanchoe Cuttings
Kalanchoe plants are fun to grow from cuttings. The vegetative stems produce the best plants and root quickest. Take a 2- to 3-inch section and strip off the bottom couple of leaves. Let the cutting sit out in a warm, dry location to form a callus on the end. Plant the cutting in pre-moistened peat and perlite up to the first leaf. Enclose the entire pot in plastic to form a little terrarium and conserve the moisture. Place the pot in a bright window with indirect light. Cuttings will root in 14 to 21 days and are then ready to transplant.
How to Take Care of a Kalanchoe
Plants may grow well in southern Florida year round or outside in USDA zones 8 to 10 during the summer months. Kalanchoe care is minimal but be cautious about light levels. Strong southern light can burn the tips of the leaves. Place pots in partial sun to light shade areas when growing kalachoe plants. The best planting mix is 60 percent peat moss and 40 percent perlite. Cut off spent flower stems and pinch back leggy growth to force a compact plant. Water the plant deeply and then allow it to dry out completely before you give it further moisture. Fertilize once per month during the growing season with a houseplant food.
Kalanchoe Care for Second Bloom
Although the plant foliage of growing kalanchoe succulent plants is interesting even without blooms, the flowers make the most spectacular display. To force the plant to bloom again, you must fool it into believing it has experienced winter. During October and early March, the day lengths are short enough to naturally force flower buds. In other periods, you will have to put the plant in a closet or dim room for most of the day. Bring it out only for morning light and then put it away after a few hours. The plant needs six weeks of 12 to 14 hour darkness to form spectacular new flowers. The best temperatures for formation of flowers are 40-45 F. (4-7 C.) at night and 60 F. (16 C.) during the day. Kalanchoe care for plants that have begun to form buds is the same as that for flowering plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
English ivy is a classic addition to any home, whether you grow it to cover a brick wall or plant it as an indoor vine as part of your room decor. Buying a lot of ivy for large plantings can be an expensive proposition, but you can get a large batch for free by rooting ivy plants in your home. Propagating English ivy (and most other types too) is a simple procedure than anyone can do with a few basic tools. Let’s learn more about the best way to root an ivy cutting.
Ivy Plant Propagation
Ivy plants are made of long trailing vines with multiple leaves growing along their lengths. Vines such as these are simple to cut and root, as long as you use the right cutting methods. One vine can be cut into multiple pieces and grown into new plants, turning one plant into a dozen. The secret to rooting ivy vines is in the cutting and care you give them during the rooting process. Propagating English ivy and related species can be accomplished in either water or soil.
How to Propagate Ivy
Cut a length of ivy vine up to 4 feet long. Use a clean pair of shears or a sharp knife. Cut the vine into multiple pieces, with each piece having one or two leaves. Make each cut directly above a leaf, and trim the stem below the leaf to about one inch. Dip the end of each stem in rooting hormone powder. Fill a planter with sand (or a sand/soil mix) and poke holes in the sand for planting. Plant each powdered stem in a hole and then gently push the sand around the stem.
Water the sand well and place the planter in a plastic bag to help retain moisture. Open the bag once a week to water when needed to keep it moist. The ivy twigs will begin to sprout and be ready to replant in a permanent location within six to eight weeks. Ivy plants are also easy to root in water. Trim off any bottom leaves and place your cutting in a jar on a well-lit window sill. In a few weeks, you should start to see roots growing in the water. While rooting ivy plants in water is easy, it is always better for the plant when rooted in a solid planting medium, as transplanting water-rooted cuttings to the soil is more difficult and survival rates are lower. Therefore, the best way to too an ivy cutting is in sandy soil rather than water.
Ivy Plant Propagation
Ivy plants are made of long trailing vines with multiple leaves growing along their lengths. Vines such as these are simple to cut and root, as long as you use the right cutting methods. One vine can be cut into multiple pieces and grown into new plants, turning one plant into a dozen. The secret to rooting ivy vines is in the cutting and care you give them during the rooting process. Propagating English ivy and related species can be accomplished in either water or soil.
How to Propagate Ivy
Cut a length of ivy vine up to 4 feet long. Use a clean pair of shears or a sharp knife. Cut the vine into multiple pieces, with each piece having one or two leaves. Make each cut directly above a leaf, and trim the stem below the leaf to about one inch. Dip the end of each stem in rooting hormone powder. Fill a planter with sand (or a sand/soil mix) and poke holes in the sand for planting. Plant each powdered stem in a hole and then gently push the sand around the stem.
Water the sand well and place the planter in a plastic bag to help retain moisture. Open the bag once a week to water when needed to keep it moist. The ivy twigs will begin to sprout and be ready to replant in a permanent location within six to eight weeks. Ivy plants are also easy to root in water. Trim off any bottom leaves and place your cutting in a jar on a well-lit window sill. In a few weeks, you should start to see roots growing in the water. While rooting ivy plants in water is easy, it is always better for the plant when rooted in a solid planting medium, as transplanting water-rooted cuttings to the soil is more difficult and survival rates are lower. Therefore, the best way to too an ivy cutting is in sandy soil rather than water.
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sheepdog：find a piece with sm. roots on stems!
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Ivy can make a wonderful, bright light houseplant. It can grow long and lush and bring a bit of the outdoors inside. Growing ivy indoors is easy as long as you know what makes an ivy plant happy. Let’s learn a little bit more about ivy and proper ivy plant care.
About Ivy Houseplants
Ivy houseplants can actually be one of several different varieties. These include:
English ivy (Hedera helix)
Irish ivy (Hedera hibernica)
Japanese ivy (Hedera rhombea)
Algerian ivy (Hedera canariensis)
Persian ivy (Hedera colchica)
Nepal ivy (Hedera nepalensis)
Russian ivy (Hedera pastuchovii)
English ivy cultivars are the most common type of ivy grown in the home, but all can be found if you look hard enough. Each of the varieties of inside ivy plants also come in several different cultivars. This means that there is a dizzying array of ivies that you can choose for your home, depending on your preference for color (all shades of green or variegated with white, yellow, gray, black and cream), leaf shape and growth habits.
Growing Ivy Indoors
Growing ivy indoors isn’t difficult as long as you provide what the plant needs. The most important part of indoor ivy plant care is light. All true ivies need bright light. Variegated cultivars can take medium light, but be aware that their variegation will become less pronounced in less light. Without enough light, inside ivy plants will become leggy and sickly looking. They will also be more prone to pests.
Indoor Ivy Plant Care
When watering your ivy, always check the soil before adding water. Ivies prefer to be kept slightly on the dry side, so let the soil dry out some (dry to the touch on top) before you water your ivy plant again. Also, make sure that your plant has excellent drainage, as ivy does not like to be in standing water or overly wet soil. Caring for ivy plants should also include regular fertilizing. Fertilize your ivy about once a month in the spring, summer and fall with a water soluble, nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Do not fertilize in the winter, as this is the ivy’s dormant period and the fertilizer may do more harm than good at this time. Ivy houseplants benefit from periodic washing to remove dust and pests from their leaves. To wash your ivy plant, simply place the plant in the shower and allow the water to run over the plant for a few minutes. If you find the plant has a serious pest infestation, you may need to bring the spray closer to the plant to help knock off all the pests. Caring for ivy plants is easy and rewarding. You will enjoy not only growing ivy indoors, but will also have fun with the wide selection of ivy plants available to do so.
About Ivy Houseplants
Ivy houseplants can actually be one of several different varieties. These include:
English ivy (Hedera helix)
Irish ivy (Hedera hibernica)
Japanese ivy (Hedera rhombea)
Algerian ivy (Hedera canariensis)
Persian ivy (Hedera colchica)
Nepal ivy (Hedera nepalensis)
Russian ivy (Hedera pastuchovii)
English ivy cultivars are the most common type of ivy grown in the home, but all can be found if you look hard enough. Each of the varieties of inside ivy plants also come in several different cultivars. This means that there is a dizzying array of ivies that you can choose for your home, depending on your preference for color (all shades of green or variegated with white, yellow, gray, black and cream), leaf shape and growth habits.
Growing Ivy Indoors
Growing ivy indoors isn’t difficult as long as you provide what the plant needs. The most important part of indoor ivy plant care is light. All true ivies need bright light. Variegated cultivars can take medium light, but be aware that their variegation will become less pronounced in less light. Without enough light, inside ivy plants will become leggy and sickly looking. They will also be more prone to pests.
Indoor Ivy Plant Care
When watering your ivy, always check the soil before adding water. Ivies prefer to be kept slightly on the dry side, so let the soil dry out some (dry to the touch on top) before you water your ivy plant again. Also, make sure that your plant has excellent drainage, as ivy does not like to be in standing water or overly wet soil. Caring for ivy plants should also include regular fertilizing. Fertilize your ivy about once a month in the spring, summer and fall with a water soluble, nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Do not fertilize in the winter, as this is the ivy’s dormant period and the fertilizer may do more harm than good at this time. Ivy houseplants benefit from periodic washing to remove dust and pests from their leaves. To wash your ivy plant, simply place the plant in the shower and allow the water to run over the plant for a few minutes. If you find the plant has a serious pest infestation, you may need to bring the spray closer to the plant to help knock off all the pests. Caring for ivy plants is easy and rewarding. You will enjoy not only growing ivy indoors, but will also have fun with the wide selection of ivy plants available to do so.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Fat juicy leaves and translucent flesh are the hallmarks of Haworthia window plant. Not all Haworthia have the see-through leaves, but those that do are spectacular specimens of the genus. Learning how to grow Haworthia is relatively easy, as they are a low maintenance and hardy little plant. Caring for window plants is very much like caring for their cousins, the Aloes.
For a long time, Haworthia was thought to belong to the Aloe family, but its class was reassigned in the early 1800’s as a more thorough breakdown of plant genera was undertaken. Not all plants in the genera have the window pane leaves with their opaque fleshy leaves and rich green interiors; the majority of the plants in the genus are small succulents with a low growth habit and similar cultivation requirements.
Haworthia Window Plant
The tiny succulents are native to USDA zones 9 to 11. They come in many forms, but the varieties with see-through foliage are usually comprised of triangular thick pads with an interior like the inside of a green gumdrop. Some species have a white band along the edge of the leaf and others have red tips. Haworthia care, no matter the species, is easy and minimal. They are best used in containers as interior plants but you can bring them outdoors in summer. In fact, succulent window leaved plants lend their candy-like appearance to a host of container gardening possibilities. In certain light, you can get a glimpse of the interior of window plants — the luscious flesh that comprises these water storing succulents.
How to Grow Haworthia
If you’re lucky enough to live in the warm zones, plant your window-leaved plants outside in full sun where soil is gritty and well draining. For most gardeners, this species is limited to indoor growth. Choose a container that has excellent drainage and use a cactus mix or blend of half potting soil and half grit such as sand or perlite. The container should be shallow, as the root system on window leaved plants is not deep. Place the potted succulent in a bright area with some protection from the hottest rays of the day. Water weekly during the summer or once the top of the soil has dried out. In winter, suspend watering except once per month.
Caring for Window Leaved Plants
Haworthia has no notable pests or diseases. When soil is kept too moist, soil gnats are common. Fungal or rot issues also ensue in plants that are kept in high humidity areas, dimly lit rooms or overwatered. Overwatering is probably the biggest cause of failure to thrive with this easy to grow plant. Keep your plant where it is 70 to 90 F. (21-32 C.) for best growth. Fertilize once in fall and once in spring. Rarely, you may get one or two small white flowers if your Haworthia window plant is really happy. Repot every two to three years to keep the root system healthy and soil at its peak.
For a long time, Haworthia was thought to belong to the Aloe family, but its class was reassigned in the early 1800’s as a more thorough breakdown of plant genera was undertaken. Not all plants in the genera have the window pane leaves with their opaque fleshy leaves and rich green interiors; the majority of the plants in the genus are small succulents with a low growth habit and similar cultivation requirements.
Haworthia Window Plant
The tiny succulents are native to USDA zones 9 to 11. They come in many forms, but the varieties with see-through foliage are usually comprised of triangular thick pads with an interior like the inside of a green gumdrop. Some species have a white band along the edge of the leaf and others have red tips. Haworthia care, no matter the species, is easy and minimal. They are best used in containers as interior plants but you can bring them outdoors in summer. In fact, succulent window leaved plants lend their candy-like appearance to a host of container gardening possibilities. In certain light, you can get a glimpse of the interior of window plants — the luscious flesh that comprises these water storing succulents.
How to Grow Haworthia
If you’re lucky enough to live in the warm zones, plant your window-leaved plants outside in full sun where soil is gritty and well draining. For most gardeners, this species is limited to indoor growth. Choose a container that has excellent drainage and use a cactus mix or blend of half potting soil and half grit such as sand or perlite. The container should be shallow, as the root system on window leaved plants is not deep. Place the potted succulent in a bright area with some protection from the hottest rays of the day. Water weekly during the summer or once the top of the soil has dried out. In winter, suspend watering except once per month.
Caring for Window Leaved Plants
Haworthia has no notable pests or diseases. When soil is kept too moist, soil gnats are common. Fungal or rot issues also ensue in plants that are kept in high humidity areas, dimly lit rooms or overwatered. Overwatering is probably the biggest cause of failure to thrive with this easy to grow plant. Keep your plant where it is 70 to 90 F. (21-32 C.) for best growth. Fertilize once in fall and once in spring. Rarely, you may get one or two small white flowers if your Haworthia window plant is really happy. Repot every two to three years to keep the root system healthy and soil at its peak.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Grape ivy is one of the finest indoor vines a gardener can grow. It’s hardy, looks nice and springs back despite a great deal of neglect. Because of this, many people are surprised to hear about grape ivy plant problems, but they do suffer a few. Yellow leaves on grape ivy are by far the most common and can be caused by a couple of different mechanisms. Read on to learn more about grape ivy with yellow leaves.
0Causes of Yellow Grape Ivy
When your grape ivy is turning yellow, you may be really concerned that it won’t survive the ordeal – and you may be right. Although there’s not much that can get these hardy plants down, yellow leaves can be a sign of serious distress. It’s time to do a little detective work to find out what’s causing your plant’s problem. By far, the two most common causes of yellow leaves on grape ivy are spider mites and root rot. Both are treatable if caught early. Here’s what to watch for and what to do if you find it:
Spider Mites. Spider mites leave a characteristic thin spider-like web on your plants, along with pin-sized yellow spots on leaves that aren’t fully affected yet. If you suspect spider mites, washing the plant thoroughly once a week and increasing the humidity around it can help keep them at bay. If they’re persistent, a miticide is in order. Apply it carefully, and per the package instructions.
Root Rot. Root rot is the direct result of overwatering. In a plant like grape ivy, which prefers a dry soil, root rot can be a serious problem long before you realize. It can manifest in several ways, but yellow or wilting leaves are typical signs that your plant’s roots aren’t doing their job.
Remove the plant from its pot and clean the dirt out of the root ball gently. If many of the roots are brown, black, smell terrible or appear dead, you’ve got a problem. Trim back all the sickly roots and repot your plant into a container that drains quickly. Make sure to use a fast-draining potting soil, such as a palm or cactus mix. Water the plant when the soil feels dry and never leave it standing in a saucer full of water.
0Causes of Yellow Grape Ivy
When your grape ivy is turning yellow, you may be really concerned that it won’t survive the ordeal – and you may be right. Although there’s not much that can get these hardy plants down, yellow leaves can be a sign of serious distress. It’s time to do a little detective work to find out what’s causing your plant’s problem. By far, the two most common causes of yellow leaves on grape ivy are spider mites and root rot. Both are treatable if caught early. Here’s what to watch for and what to do if you find it:
Spider Mites. Spider mites leave a characteristic thin spider-like web on your plants, along with pin-sized yellow spots on leaves that aren’t fully affected yet. If you suspect spider mites, washing the plant thoroughly once a week and increasing the humidity around it can help keep them at bay. If they’re persistent, a miticide is in order. Apply it carefully, and per the package instructions.
Root Rot. Root rot is the direct result of overwatering. In a plant like grape ivy, which prefers a dry soil, root rot can be a serious problem long before you realize. It can manifest in several ways, but yellow or wilting leaves are typical signs that your plant’s roots aren’t doing their job.
Remove the plant from its pot and clean the dirt out of the root ball gently. If many of the roots are brown, black, smell terrible or appear dead, you’ve got a problem. Trim back all the sickly roots and repot your plant into a container that drains quickly. Make sure to use a fast-draining potting soil, such as a palm or cactus mix. Water the plant when the soil feels dry and never leave it standing in a saucer full of water.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Lots of plants that we grow outside as ornamentals are actually warm weather perennials that can be grown year round indoors. As long as these plants receive plenty of sunlight, they can be kept as houseplants all year or just moved inside when the weather gets colder. Keep reading to learn more about ornamental plants you can grow indoors.
Indoor Ornamentals
Growing outdoor ornamentals as houseplants is often easy, as long as you pick a plant that thrives at room temperature and doesn’t need too much light. Some popular low-maintenance ornamental plants you can grow indoors are:
Asparagus fern – Asparagus fern grows quickly, making deep green foliage dotted with delicate flowers and bright red berries. It works very well in a container. Geranium – Geraniums will bloom all through the winter, as long as they’re in a bright window. Caladium – Caladium, also called elephant ear, grows well indoors and will remain colorful all winter in indirect sunlight. Ivy – Ivy does very well in the shade and can be planted to drape over the edge of a pot, creating a nice cascade effect from a tall shelf or table.
Some indoor ornamental plants require a little more care, however.
Begonias can be brought inside, but they need some maintenance. They like high humidity, but they also like their soil to dry out between waterings. To achieve this, line your plant’s saucer with pebbles – this will keep the pot’s runoff water from evaporating as quickly. Also, mist the plant between waterings to keep it moist. Hot pepper plants can be grown as interesting houseplant ornamentals. As summer winds down, dig up your plant and put it in a pot. The pot will need bright direct sunlight, possibly from a grow light. You’ll also need to watch the leaves for aphids, which can get out of hand.
Basically, as long as you can provide the plants with whatever they need to thrive, you should be able to grow nearly any type of ornamental garden plant indoors.
Indoor Ornamentals
Growing outdoor ornamentals as houseplants is often easy, as long as you pick a plant that thrives at room temperature and doesn’t need too much light. Some popular low-maintenance ornamental plants you can grow indoors are:
Asparagus fern – Asparagus fern grows quickly, making deep green foliage dotted with delicate flowers and bright red berries. It works very well in a container. Geranium – Geraniums will bloom all through the winter, as long as they’re in a bright window. Caladium – Caladium, also called elephant ear, grows well indoors and will remain colorful all winter in indirect sunlight. Ivy – Ivy does very well in the shade and can be planted to drape over the edge of a pot, creating a nice cascade effect from a tall shelf or table.
Some indoor ornamental plants require a little more care, however.
Begonias can be brought inside, but they need some maintenance. They like high humidity, but they also like their soil to dry out between waterings. To achieve this, line your plant’s saucer with pebbles – this will keep the pot’s runoff water from evaporating as quickly. Also, mist the plant between waterings to keep it moist. Hot pepper plants can be grown as interesting houseplant ornamentals. As summer winds down, dig up your plant and put it in a pot. The pot will need bright direct sunlight, possibly from a grow light. You’ll also need to watch the leaves for aphids, which can get out of hand.
Basically, as long as you can provide the plants with whatever they need to thrive, you should be able to grow nearly any type of ornamental garden plant indoors.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
It’s possible to grow plants in water year round with very little investment of time or effort. Hydroponic plant environments aren’t as complicated as they sound, as plants grown in water simply need water, oxygen, a jar or other support to keep the plants upright – and, of course, the proper mix of nutrients to keep the plant healthy. Once you’ve determined the best fertilizer for water grown plants, the rest, as they say, is a piece of cake! Read on to learn how to fertilize plants in water.
Feeding Houseplants Growing in Water
Although plants get some important elements from the air, they draw most of their nutrients through their roots. For those grown in hydroponic plant environments, it’s up to us to provide fertilizer in the water.
If you’re serious about creating hydroponic plant environments, it’s a good idea to have your water tested before you begin. Often, water contains a significant amount of calcium, magnesium, sodium and chloride, and in some cases, may contain excessive amounts of boron and manganese.
On the other hand, iron, potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and certain micronutrients may be lacking. A water test reveals exactly what your water needs in order for plants to flourish. As a general rule, however, feeding houseplants growing in water isn’t that complicated and unless you’re a chemistry buff, there’s really no need to stress over a complicated formulation of nutrients.
How to Fertilize Plants in Water
Simply add a good quality, water-soluble fertilizer to the container every time you change the water – usually every four to six weeks, or sooner if half of the water has evaporated. Use a weak solution consisting of one-quarter the strength recommended on the fertilizer container. If your plants are looking a little puny or if the foliage is pale, you can mist the leaves with a weak fertilizer solution weekly. For best results, use bottled spring water, rain water or well water, as city water tends to be heavily chlorinated and devoid of most natural nutrients.
Feeding Houseplants Growing in Water
Although plants get some important elements from the air, they draw most of their nutrients through their roots. For those grown in hydroponic plant environments, it’s up to us to provide fertilizer in the water.
If you’re serious about creating hydroponic plant environments, it’s a good idea to have your water tested before you begin. Often, water contains a significant amount of calcium, magnesium, sodium and chloride, and in some cases, may contain excessive amounts of boron and manganese.
On the other hand, iron, potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and certain micronutrients may be lacking. A water test reveals exactly what your water needs in order for plants to flourish. As a general rule, however, feeding houseplants growing in water isn’t that complicated and unless you’re a chemistry buff, there’s really no need to stress over a complicated formulation of nutrients.
How to Fertilize Plants in Water
Simply add a good quality, water-soluble fertilizer to the container every time you change the water – usually every four to six weeks, or sooner if half of the water has evaporated. Use a weak solution consisting of one-quarter the strength recommended on the fertilizer container. If your plants are looking a little puny or if the foliage is pale, you can mist the leaves with a weak fertilizer solution weekly. For best results, use bottled spring water, rain water or well water, as city water tends to be heavily chlorinated and devoid of most natural nutrients.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Ficus are one of the most common and easy to grow houseplants. In fact, they are so easy to grow indoors that occasionally the plants outgrow their site. Ficus plants don’t like to be moved, so the best option is to prune the plant to keep it manageable. Let’s talk about how to prune a ficus tree and, more importantly for the plant’s health, when should ficus be pruned? Ficus are not winter hardy and are generally grown as houseplants in the United States and other parts of the world. They are native to tropical and subtropical regions and are considered part of this type of exterior landscaping in warm zones. Indoor plants have slow, steady growth but can become heavy on the ends and lose their arching shape. Rejuvenation pruning will make the plant more compact and enhance proper branch formation.
When Should Ficus Be Pruned?
Obviously, trimming ficus trees is necessary if the plant has grown into a byway or is touching the ceiling. Trimming to diminish size is a common reason for pruning any woody plant. Timing is also an issue. Ficus tree pruning needs to take place when the plant is no longer actively growing. Most plants are vegetatively active in spring and summer, with growth dying down in fall. By winter, the plant has gone into dormancy and is less susceptible to injury. Therefore, winter is the best time for trimming ficus trees. You can prune out dead material at any time during the year.
How to Prune a Ficus Tree
Use a clean sharp pair of bypass pruners and don a pair of gloves. Ficus have a latex sap that may be irritating to skin. First, look at the tree overall and decide what areas need to be minimized. If the tree is too tall, this is clearly where you start, but if you need to create a better silhouette, you will have to make a plan before you start cutting. There are some cutting rules for ficus tree pruning in order to create a better appearance and keep cuts from looking obvious. Once you have decided which vegetation needs to go, the first step is to remove any dead or broken branches. This will give you an even better idea of the remaining necessary cuts.
Ficus Pruning Tips
Cut just before a growth node so that new growth will sprout there and cover the stump. Another tip is to remove a branch back to another branch that is one of its size. This will prevent unsightly stubs and restore the size and appearance of the ficus. Cut at a slant away from the node or secondary branch. If you have a damaged ficus with lots of dead growth, prune away no more than one-third of the material. You can cut more off later as the plant recovers. The best time to try this sort of pruning is after the plant has started re-sprouting so you can ensure that you are not removing recovered material.
When Should Ficus Be Pruned?
Obviously, trimming ficus trees is necessary if the plant has grown into a byway or is touching the ceiling. Trimming to diminish size is a common reason for pruning any woody plant. Timing is also an issue. Ficus tree pruning needs to take place when the plant is no longer actively growing. Most plants are vegetatively active in spring and summer, with growth dying down in fall. By winter, the plant has gone into dormancy and is less susceptible to injury. Therefore, winter is the best time for trimming ficus trees. You can prune out dead material at any time during the year.
How to Prune a Ficus Tree
Use a clean sharp pair of bypass pruners and don a pair of gloves. Ficus have a latex sap that may be irritating to skin. First, look at the tree overall and decide what areas need to be minimized. If the tree is too tall, this is clearly where you start, but if you need to create a better silhouette, you will have to make a plan before you start cutting. There are some cutting rules for ficus tree pruning in order to create a better appearance and keep cuts from looking obvious. Once you have decided which vegetation needs to go, the first step is to remove any dead or broken branches. This will give you an even better idea of the remaining necessary cuts.
Ficus Pruning Tips
Cut just before a growth node so that new growth will sprout there and cover the stump. Another tip is to remove a branch back to another branch that is one of its size. This will prevent unsightly stubs and restore the size and appearance of the ficus. Cut at a slant away from the node or secondary branch. If you have a damaged ficus with lots of dead growth, prune away no more than one-third of the material. You can cut more off later as the plant recovers. The best time to try this sort of pruning is after the plant has started re-sprouting so you can ensure that you are not removing recovered material.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月12日
Epiphytic plants are those that grow on vertical surfaces such as another plant, a rock, or any other structure the epiphyte can attach to. Epiphytes are not parasitic but do use other plants as support. Epiphytes for the home interior are mounted, generally on bark, wood or cork. It’s creative and fun to learn how to mount epiphytic plants. These varieties add a unique, tropical note to the home and epiphyte plant care is easy and carefree.
Epiphyte Mounting Tips
There are 22,000 species of epiphytes around the world. Many of these are becoming common houseplants due to their unique beauty but also their ease of care. Mounting these plants is the best way to view them, provides the plant the aerial situation it requires and assists in epiphyte plant care. Choose any mount that is porous and is free of chemicals and salts. Now it is time to take a few epiphyte mounting tips and get creative. The pros choose their mounting medium carefully. This is especially true of orchid collectors. Orchids tend to grow on specific species of tree and it is important to try to match that wood whenever possible. Usually, this is not the case, however, so a benign substitute is chosen. Your choice of mounting medium will depend upon the size of your epiphyte, the weight of the medium and durability. For the most part, driftwood, cork and large pieces of hardwood or bark will provide adequate homes for the plants. Your mounting material is your next choice. Use pantyhose, fishing line, wire, twine or even hot glue.
How to Mount Epiphytic Plants
Epiphyte growing and mounting can become addictive. The bromeliads, orchids, tillandsia, staghorn fern and other varieties of epiphyte will produce a unique collection. Any of the plants that have minimal roots or aerial roots are good candidates for mounting. The best medium for any type of plant will vary according to its native region; however, an overall good medium to cradle root systems is sphagnum moss. Moisten the moss and pack it around the roots. You can use a bit of coconut coir around that if you wish and then bind the whole mass to the plant with twine.
Epiphyte Growing and Mounting
You should have all the parts that you need together now. Take your plant and wrap the roots in the moistened sphagnum moss. Bind this to the base of the plant and then take your mounting piece and attach the base of the plant. Use glue, twine or whatever method you choose. Take care to hide any string in the foliage of the plant for best appearance. Epiphytes need more moisture than plants in pots. Provide water two to four times a week, depending upon how hot and dry your home is and what time of year. In summer, occasionally submerge the plant in water for an hour if it is not getting enough moisture. If your humidity is low, spray them with water occasionally. Place the plant where it gets bright but indirect light. Fertilize in spring with a dilution of a 10-5-5 that is low in copper.
Epiphyte Mounting Tips
There are 22,000 species of epiphytes around the world. Many of these are becoming common houseplants due to their unique beauty but also their ease of care. Mounting these plants is the best way to view them, provides the plant the aerial situation it requires and assists in epiphyte plant care. Choose any mount that is porous and is free of chemicals and salts. Now it is time to take a few epiphyte mounting tips and get creative. The pros choose their mounting medium carefully. This is especially true of orchid collectors. Orchids tend to grow on specific species of tree and it is important to try to match that wood whenever possible. Usually, this is not the case, however, so a benign substitute is chosen. Your choice of mounting medium will depend upon the size of your epiphyte, the weight of the medium and durability. For the most part, driftwood, cork and large pieces of hardwood or bark will provide adequate homes for the plants. Your mounting material is your next choice. Use pantyhose, fishing line, wire, twine or even hot glue.
How to Mount Epiphytic Plants
Epiphyte growing and mounting can become addictive. The bromeliads, orchids, tillandsia, staghorn fern and other varieties of epiphyte will produce a unique collection. Any of the plants that have minimal roots or aerial roots are good candidates for mounting. The best medium for any type of plant will vary according to its native region; however, an overall good medium to cradle root systems is sphagnum moss. Moisten the moss and pack it around the roots. You can use a bit of coconut coir around that if you wish and then bind the whole mass to the plant with twine.
Epiphyte Growing and Mounting
You should have all the parts that you need together now. Take your plant and wrap the roots in the moistened sphagnum moss. Bind this to the base of the plant and then take your mounting piece and attach the base of the plant. Use glue, twine or whatever method you choose. Take care to hide any string in the foliage of the plant for best appearance. Epiphytes need more moisture than plants in pots. Provide water two to four times a week, depending upon how hot and dry your home is and what time of year. In summer, occasionally submerge the plant in water for an hour if it is not getting enough moisture. If your humidity is low, spray them with water occasionally. Place the plant where it gets bright but indirect light. Fertilize in spring with a dilution of a 10-5-5 that is low in copper.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are considered one of the most enigmatic plants and can be intimidating to grow at home. Consisting of single blooms on a single stalk, the delicate flower is a sight to behold. Once the petals drop, you are left with a lonely, empty stem. With consistent care, it is possible to encourage the plant to flower again.
Immediately After Blooming
When the last flower drops from your orchid plant, it is time to begin a care and maintenance routine that will help your plant bloom again. Begin by trimming the spent stalk back by half. Cut with a clean, sharp blade and seal the cut with melted wax to prevent bacterial infection.
Encouraging Rebloom
The plant will typically send out new growth near the cut site. Continue your watering and fertilizing schedule to encourage rebloom. Most orchids grown in the home should be watered every 5 to 12 days, depending on the medium it is grown in and the current season. Orchids typically fall into one of three categories for watering needs: those that require consistently moist (but not soggy) soil; those that prefer moist soil but should dry out between watering; and those that perform best when the soil is kept nearly dry.
Check the packaging included when you purchased your orchid to determine which watering schedule to follow. Fertilizer should be applied once per month. Inadequate fertilization can stunt growth and affect blooms. Fertilizing too often can burn the roots and leaves. Keep the plant in a location that receives strong but indirect light; a south-facing window is ideal. Monitor leaf color to determine if your orchid is receiving the proper amount of light. A plant receiving too little light will have dark green leaves, while one receiving too much light will present reddish-green leaves. Ideal light conditions will cause bright green leaves to appear.
Be consistent in your care routine and patient with your orchid. Orchids are notoriously slow-growing and the rebloom may take place up to one year after the new growth appears.
Immediately After Blooming
When the last flower drops from your orchid plant, it is time to begin a care and maintenance routine that will help your plant bloom again. Begin by trimming the spent stalk back by half. Cut with a clean, sharp blade and seal the cut with melted wax to prevent bacterial infection.
Encouraging Rebloom
The plant will typically send out new growth near the cut site. Continue your watering and fertilizing schedule to encourage rebloom. Most orchids grown in the home should be watered every 5 to 12 days, depending on the medium it is grown in and the current season. Orchids typically fall into one of three categories for watering needs: those that require consistently moist (but not soggy) soil; those that prefer moist soil but should dry out between watering; and those that perform best when the soil is kept nearly dry.
Check the packaging included when you purchased your orchid to determine which watering schedule to follow. Fertilizer should be applied once per month. Inadequate fertilization can stunt growth and affect blooms. Fertilizing too often can burn the roots and leaves. Keep the plant in a location that receives strong but indirect light; a south-facing window is ideal. Monitor leaf color to determine if your orchid is receiving the proper amount of light. A plant receiving too little light will have dark green leaves, while one receiving too much light will present reddish-green leaves. Ideal light conditions will cause bright green leaves to appear.
Be consistent in your care routine and patient with your orchid. Orchids are notoriously slow-growing and the rebloom may take place up to one year after the new growth appears.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Ground orchids flower year round and with the right conditions, they grow for years. They are native to south eastern Asia and the Philippines and they do well in pots as well as flower beds. They are plants that communicate their needs with several visual indicators, so as long as you know what the signs are, taking care of your ground orchid is simple.
Step 1
Add some fertilizer and compost to the soil you want to plant with a spade. You can also add charcoal, which keeps the soil loose and can help the roots spread.
Step 2
Separate some ground orchid plants from the main group, because ground orchids reproduce when you divide them. Plant them in separate pots or in the prepared ground three to six inches apart. They need space and loose soil for their roots to spread out.
Step 3
Water your ground orchid every five to twelve days, depending on the humidity in the environment. Allow the roots to dry out completely between waterings, or you risk killing them. Some orchids differ from ground orchids here and need their roots kept moist. Do not let the leaves on an orchid stay wet, or the plant may rot. Dry them with a cotton ball or tissue.
Step 4
Keep your ground orchid in low-light or somewhat shady areas. If you have it in a pot indoors, put it in a window behind a curtain. In a flower bed, you might want to construct a trellis over your orchids to shade them and keep heavy rainfall off of them. If orchids get too much light, their leaves shade red. With too little light they turn dark green. You want bright green leaves on your orchids.
Step 5
Deadhead your ground orchids by cutting the stems with flowers that have finished blooming and now wilt. This helps the plant continue to bloom. Check for dead or dying flowers every few days. If your plant stops blooming, cut the stem at a node or knob below the flower with gardening shears. If it is a really young plant, cut it near the ground, but it might take up to a year before it blooms again.
Step 1
Add some fertilizer and compost to the soil you want to plant with a spade. You can also add charcoal, which keeps the soil loose and can help the roots spread.
Step 2
Separate some ground orchid plants from the main group, because ground orchids reproduce when you divide them. Plant them in separate pots or in the prepared ground three to six inches apart. They need space and loose soil for their roots to spread out.
Step 3
Water your ground orchid every five to twelve days, depending on the humidity in the environment. Allow the roots to dry out completely between waterings, or you risk killing them. Some orchids differ from ground orchids here and need their roots kept moist. Do not let the leaves on an orchid stay wet, or the plant may rot. Dry them with a cotton ball or tissue.
Step 4
Keep your ground orchid in low-light or somewhat shady areas. If you have it in a pot indoors, put it in a window behind a curtain. In a flower bed, you might want to construct a trellis over your orchids to shade them and keep heavy rainfall off of them. If orchids get too much light, their leaves shade red. With too little light they turn dark green. You want bright green leaves on your orchids.
Step 5
Deadhead your ground orchids by cutting the stems with flowers that have finished blooming and now wilt. This helps the plant continue to bloom. Check for dead or dying flowers every few days. If your plant stops blooming, cut the stem at a node or knob below the flower with gardening shears. If it is a really young plant, cut it near the ground, but it might take up to a year before it blooms again.
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