文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses are some of the most popular flowers for home gardeners. Rose bushes grow and adapt to many types of soils. In fertile soils, rose bushes grow quickly and vigorously. Different varieties of rose bushes grow to different heights.
Bushes
Bush type roses include hybrid tea roses, floribundas and grandifloras. These varieties grow between 2 and 6 feet tall. Miniature roses are bush type roses as well, but they only reach 6 to 24 inches in height.
Shrubs
Shrub roses reach 3 to 10 feet in height. These varieties of roses include wild roses, hybrid rugosa roses and hybrid musk roses. Shrub roses are commonly used for hedges, ground covers and screens.
Climbing
Climbing roses produce canes that are 15 to 20 feet long and need support to stay upright. Climbing roses include ramblers, climbing hybrid tea roses and trailing roses. These roses are commonly trained to grow on fences and arbors. Do not prune climbing roses back until after the flowering is done for the season.
Bushes
Bush type roses include hybrid tea roses, floribundas and grandifloras. These varieties grow between 2 and 6 feet tall. Miniature roses are bush type roses as well, but they only reach 6 to 24 inches in height.
Shrubs
Shrub roses reach 3 to 10 feet in height. These varieties of roses include wild roses, hybrid rugosa roses and hybrid musk roses. Shrub roses are commonly used for hedges, ground covers and screens.
Climbing
Climbing roses produce canes that are 15 to 20 feet long and need support to stay upright. Climbing roses include ramblers, climbing hybrid tea roses and trailing roses. These roses are commonly trained to grow on fences and arbors. Do not prune climbing roses back until after the flowering is done for the season.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Acidic soils can cause nutritional problems for many plants, including a plant's inability to absorb phosphorous, nitrogen and potassium. However, many species tolerate or even require mildly acidic conditions to grow well. Roses do well in a slight-to-moderate acid soil, but even these acid-loving plants can't tolerate high acidic locations.
Acid Soils
Abundant rain often creates acidic soil conditions, because rainwater itself is slightly acid. Other factors that encourage acidic soil include heavy local forest cover or large amounts of decaying organic matter, such as compost. Acid soils can increase the risk of some plant problems, such as slow growth or dead tissue at the edges of leaves. Roses grown in highly acid soils may have yellowed, spotty leaves. They also suffer from zinc, manganese, iron and aluminum toxicity and show reduced flowering.
Rose Soil Preferences
Roses grow best in slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. This allows for the best uptake of major nutrients. However, many varieties will still grow well in soils as acid as pH 5.5. Excessively alkaline soils can cause manganese and iron deficiencies.
Raising pH
In areas where the soil pH is too low, or acidic, add alkaline soil amendments to create conditions where roses grow successfully. Raise soil pH by adding ground limestone directly to the surface of the soil around the plant. You can also mix agricultural lime or wood ash into the soil around your roses. These materials are more alkaline and can cause "burn" damage to rosebushes if applied too heavily. Apply these soil amendments only every other year.
Lowering pH
Excessively alkaline soils, such as those found in prairie areas and arid regions, or in areas where the soil contains large amounts of natural limestone, may need acidic soil amendments for roses to thrive. Add shredded leaves, sawdust, peat or pine needles to your soil before planting. This decaying organic material will decrease the pH of the soil. Organic material takes time to work, however. Apply sulfur soil additives around existing rosebushes for a more significant effect.
Acid Soils
Abundant rain often creates acidic soil conditions, because rainwater itself is slightly acid. Other factors that encourage acidic soil include heavy local forest cover or large amounts of decaying organic matter, such as compost. Acid soils can increase the risk of some plant problems, such as slow growth or dead tissue at the edges of leaves. Roses grown in highly acid soils may have yellowed, spotty leaves. They also suffer from zinc, manganese, iron and aluminum toxicity and show reduced flowering.
Rose Soil Preferences
Roses grow best in slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. This allows for the best uptake of major nutrients. However, many varieties will still grow well in soils as acid as pH 5.5. Excessively alkaline soils can cause manganese and iron deficiencies.
Raising pH
In areas where the soil pH is too low, or acidic, add alkaline soil amendments to create conditions where roses grow successfully. Raise soil pH by adding ground limestone directly to the surface of the soil around the plant. You can also mix agricultural lime or wood ash into the soil around your roses. These materials are more alkaline and can cause "burn" damage to rosebushes if applied too heavily. Apply these soil amendments only every other year.
Lowering pH
Excessively alkaline soils, such as those found in prairie areas and arid regions, or in areas where the soil contains large amounts of natural limestone, may need acidic soil amendments for roses to thrive. Add shredded leaves, sawdust, peat or pine needles to your soil before planting. This decaying organic material will decrease the pH of the soil. Organic material takes time to work, however. Apply sulfur soil additives around existing rosebushes for a more significant effect.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Knockout roses are a favorite rose variety for many gardeners because they are available in a wide range of colors and are relatively easy to grow. Although bred for disease resistance, knockout roses are susceptible to several rose-specific diseases and fungi. They also require proper watering habits and fertilizer to thrive. When knockout roses turn brown, they require intervention to correct the problem.
Drought
Roses need plenty of water, sometimes up to twice a day on the hottest days of the summer. Without enough water, the rose blooms will die prematurely and turn brown. The tips of the blooms turn brown first before the entire bloom loses its color, withers and falls. In severe drought conditions, the leaves will turn brown. If you do not rehydrate the plant, the entire plant will die. Remove the brown leaves, blooms and buds, and saturate the ground with water daily until the rose recovers.
Pest Infestations
Japanese beetles, aphids and thrips, as well as other insects, enjoy nesting and feeding on roses. To remove pest insects, use a commercially available insecticide labeled as safe for roses. You can pluck beetles and large insects from the bush to remove them, but they often come back. Thrips are small, so they often go unnoticed until the plant suffers. The best defense against insect infestations is a healthy plant that can withstand the attack on its own.
Fungi
Several types of fungi attack roses. The most common that cause the bush to turn brown are botrytis and black spot. Knockout roses are extremely resistant to black spot, but they can become infected. Botrytis causes the tips of blooms to turn brown. Black spot manifests as brown to black fuzzy spots on the leaves that eventually turns the leaf yellow.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilizing increases the overall health of the roses and helps them naturally fight infections and infestations. Always use fertilizer specifically formulated and labeled for use on roses and follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Brown-tipped leaves on the bush with new leaves developing that are red may signal a potassium deficiency in the soil. Add rose fertilizer to the soil that contains potassium to correct the problem.
Drought
Roses need plenty of water, sometimes up to twice a day on the hottest days of the summer. Without enough water, the rose blooms will die prematurely and turn brown. The tips of the blooms turn brown first before the entire bloom loses its color, withers and falls. In severe drought conditions, the leaves will turn brown. If you do not rehydrate the plant, the entire plant will die. Remove the brown leaves, blooms and buds, and saturate the ground with water daily until the rose recovers.
Pest Infestations
Japanese beetles, aphids and thrips, as well as other insects, enjoy nesting and feeding on roses. To remove pest insects, use a commercially available insecticide labeled as safe for roses. You can pluck beetles and large insects from the bush to remove them, but they often come back. Thrips are small, so they often go unnoticed until the plant suffers. The best defense against insect infestations is a healthy plant that can withstand the attack on its own.
Fungi
Several types of fungi attack roses. The most common that cause the bush to turn brown are botrytis and black spot. Knockout roses are extremely resistant to black spot, but they can become infected. Botrytis causes the tips of blooms to turn brown. Black spot manifests as brown to black fuzzy spots on the leaves that eventually turns the leaf yellow.
Fertilizer
Proper fertilizing increases the overall health of the roses and helps them naturally fight infections and infestations. Always use fertilizer specifically formulated and labeled for use on roses and follow the manufacturer's instructions explicitly. Brown-tipped leaves on the bush with new leaves developing that are red may signal a potassium deficiency in the soil. Add rose fertilizer to the soil that contains potassium to correct the problem.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Alocasia, also called elephant’s ear, is a prolific and striking plant hardy in USDA zones 8b through 11. It requires very little maintenance once it gets going, and it can grow to impressive size, making it ideal for an attention grabbing spot in the garden or a pot. But how do you go about propagating alocasia plants? Keep reading to learn more about alocasia propagation methods and how to propagate alocasia. 
How to Propagate Alocasia Plants
Alocasia grows from rhizomes in the ground, and the best method of alocasia plant propagation involves splitting up these rhizomes. Propagation of alocasia should be done in spring or early summer, when the plant is just coming out of dormancy from the winter. With a shovel, carefully dig around the plant and lift it out of the ground. Dig at least 12 inches around the plant to avoid damaging the roots or the rhizomes themselves. Gently lift the plant out of the soil – there should be many long tubers just underneath the ground (those growing in containers can be gently pushed from the plant). Brush the soil away and carefully divide the tubers – each of these will grow into a new plant of its own.
Tips on Alocasia Plant Propagation The next step in alocasia plant propagation is to plant the rhizomes in a new spot. Choose somewhere that has rich, damp, loamy soil and receives partial shade. Don’t plant them any closer than 36 inches away from each other.
Dig a hole just deep enough that the tuber can be placed in it at the depth it was before. Give the new plant plenty of water, and before long you should start seeing new growth. If you’re propagating alocasia plants in containers, make sure to keep them somewhere warm and humid and to give them plenty of water.
How to Propagate Alocasia Plants
Alocasia grows from rhizomes in the ground, and the best method of alocasia plant propagation involves splitting up these rhizomes. Propagation of alocasia should be done in spring or early summer, when the plant is just coming out of dormancy from the winter. With a shovel, carefully dig around the plant and lift it out of the ground. Dig at least 12 inches around the plant to avoid damaging the roots or the rhizomes themselves. Gently lift the plant out of the soil – there should be many long tubers just underneath the ground (those growing in containers can be gently pushed from the plant). Brush the soil away and carefully divide the tubers – each of these will grow into a new plant of its own.
Tips on Alocasia Plant Propagation The next step in alocasia plant propagation is to plant the rhizomes in a new spot. Choose somewhere that has rich, damp, loamy soil and receives partial shade. Don’t plant them any closer than 36 inches away from each other.
Dig a hole just deep enough that the tuber can be placed in it at the depth it was before. Give the new plant plenty of water, and before long you should start seeing new growth. If you’re propagating alocasia plants in containers, make sure to keep them somewhere warm and humid and to give them plenty of water.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
This magnificent orchid grows in very wet meadows, and so wellington boots are a big advantage if you are intending to take photographs.
Description
Dactylorhiza elata can grow to well over a metre in height. The narrow leaves at the base of the plant are usually unspotted, although lightly marked specimens do sometimes occur.
The inflorescence is lax and carries up to 120 individual flowers, which vary in colour from pale to dark pink. The markings on the petals and sepals are extremely variable in shape and number; some flowers are covered with loops and spots while others have very few.
Distribution
The Robust Marsh-orchid occurs in the western Mediterranean region - Spain, Portugal and France as well as in some of the countries of central Europe including Bulgaria.
The specimen shown at the top of this page was photographed in late May in the Célé Valley, which runs parallel to the Lot Valley in southern France; the one seen below was found in Bulgaria in late June.
Habitat
Most commonly found in damp-to-wet alkaline meadows and fens in full sunshine, Dactylorhiza elata also occurs in seepages on roadside banks and verges.
Flowering times
This orchid can be seen in flower from April until July, and much depends on not only how far south they occur but also at what altitude. In lowland parts of southern France the plants can flower in May, but even further south, in northern Spain for instance, the plants flower much later because they mainly occur at high altitudes.
Description
Dactylorhiza elata can grow to well over a metre in height. The narrow leaves at the base of the plant are usually unspotted, although lightly marked specimens do sometimes occur.
The inflorescence is lax and carries up to 120 individual flowers, which vary in colour from pale to dark pink. The markings on the petals and sepals are extremely variable in shape and number; some flowers are covered with loops and spots while others have very few.
Distribution
The Robust Marsh-orchid occurs in the western Mediterranean region - Spain, Portugal and France as well as in some of the countries of central Europe including Bulgaria.
The specimen shown at the top of this page was photographed in late May in the Célé Valley, which runs parallel to the Lot Valley in southern France; the one seen below was found in Bulgaria in late June.
Habitat
Most commonly found in damp-to-wet alkaline meadows and fens in full sunshine, Dactylorhiza elata also occurs in seepages on roadside banks and verges.
Flowering times
This orchid can be seen in flower from April until July, and much depends on not only how far south they occur but also at what altitude. In lowland parts of southern France the plants can flower in May, but even further south, in northern Spain for instance, the plants flower much later because they mainly occur at high altitudes.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Western Spotted Coralroot Orchid, Corallorhiza maculata, must be one of the most attractive of the Coralroot Orchids, and like the other kinds of Coraroot orchids that grow in America it is much more robust and easier to spot than its European cousin Corallorhiza trifida.
Description
By far the prettiest of the coralroot orchids that occur in North America, the Western Spotted Coralroot has delicate flowers with brownish sepals and white lips which are covered in deep pink spots.
Distribution
There are four different 'forms' of Western Spotted Coralroot growing in North America, and their ranges extend from as far north as British Columbia and east to Newfoundland, as far south as New Mexico and they also grow in California, Indiana, Arizona and Virginia. We have found and photographed two in the Rocky Mountains - forma immaculata and the one shown on this page. We have also been lucky enough to find Western Coralroot Orchid Corallorhiza mertensiana, another very attractive plant.
Habitat
The name coralroot refers to the roots of the Coralroot orchid plants, which are said to resemble coral - not that we have dug one up to prove the point. Coralroot orchids occur in a wide range of habitats from dark forest (where we found this one) to dune slacks and open tundra. Although they produce some chlorophyl (hence some plants are greenish, although many are purple-brown), these orchids are largely saprophytic, depending mainly for their food on the mycorrhizal fungi surrounding their roots. Coralroots are usually self-pollinating.
Description
By far the prettiest of the coralroot orchids that occur in North America, the Western Spotted Coralroot has delicate flowers with brownish sepals and white lips which are covered in deep pink spots.
Distribution
There are four different 'forms' of Western Spotted Coralroot growing in North America, and their ranges extend from as far north as British Columbia and east to Newfoundland, as far south as New Mexico and they also grow in California, Indiana, Arizona and Virginia. We have found and photographed two in the Rocky Mountains - forma immaculata and the one shown on this page. We have also been lucky enough to find Western Coralroot Orchid Corallorhiza mertensiana, another very attractive plant.
Habitat
The name coralroot refers to the roots of the Coralroot orchid plants, which are said to resemble coral - not that we have dug one up to prove the point. Coralroot orchids occur in a wide range of habitats from dark forest (where we found this one) to dune slacks and open tundra. Although they produce some chlorophyl (hence some plants are greenish, although many are purple-brown), these orchids are largely saprophytic, depending mainly for their food on the mycorrhizal fungi surrounding their roots. Coralroots are usually self-pollinating.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
Don't expect to find carpets of these lovely orchids; they tend to grow singly or in small groups.
Description
This lovely orchid grows up to 60cm in height, has heavily-ribbed oval leaves, and carries up to 16 white flowers on an upright stem. The flowers do not open fully and so the blunt yellow lip is barely visible.
The flowers are mainly self-pollinated, although pollination by insects has also been recorded. The plants take at least eight years to develop from seed, and flowering can take an additional two to three years after that.
These orchids occur in woodlands (they are more common in Beech woods) where the underlying ground is chalk or limestone, although they are also found in more open positions from time to time.
Distribution
Two of the specimens shown on this page were photographed near Bryanston, in Dorset, and this orchid is only common in South-east England although there are confirmed sites in South-east Wales. Cephalanthera damasonium is in serious decline due to loss of habitat caused by the clearance of woodlands.
The White Helleborine is also found throughout continental Europe and as far east as Asia, where it is widespread but not abundant. We have also photographed this woodland orchid in Slovenia.
Flowering times
Cephalanthera damasonium blooms from early May until the end of June.
Description
This lovely orchid grows up to 60cm in height, has heavily-ribbed oval leaves, and carries up to 16 white flowers on an upright stem. The flowers do not open fully and so the blunt yellow lip is barely visible.
The flowers are mainly self-pollinated, although pollination by insects has also been recorded. The plants take at least eight years to develop from seed, and flowering can take an additional two to three years after that.
These orchids occur in woodlands (they are more common in Beech woods) where the underlying ground is chalk or limestone, although they are also found in more open positions from time to time.
Distribution
Two of the specimens shown on this page were photographed near Bryanston, in Dorset, and this orchid is only common in South-east England although there are confirmed sites in South-east Wales. Cephalanthera damasonium is in serious decline due to loss of habitat caused by the clearance of woodlands.
The White Helleborine is also found throughout continental Europe and as far east as Asia, where it is widespread but not abundant. We have also photographed this woodland orchid in Slovenia.
Flowering times
Cephalanthera damasonium blooms from early May until the end of June.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
This lovely wildflower can be found in a number of European countries and will grow in altitudes of up to 2000 metres above sea level. In Britain it is a garden escape that has become naturalised.
It grows in dry to slightly moist conditions in open sunny positions in meadows, and sometimes on woodland edges. The flowers can be pink or greenish-white. Astrantia major prefers calcareous substrates, unlike its smaller relative, Astrantia minor, which can tolerate slightly more acidic conditions. It flowers from mid-June to the middle of September.
Its territory in Europe extends from as far north as Sweden and to the south and east to include the Alps in Austria and Switerland, and the Julian Alps in Slovenia.
It grows in dry to slightly moist conditions in open sunny positions in meadows, and sometimes on woodland edges. The flowers can be pink or greenish-white. Astrantia major prefers calcareous substrates, unlike its smaller relative, Astrantia minor, which can tolerate slightly more acidic conditions. It flowers from mid-June to the middle of September.
Its territory in Europe extends from as far north as Sweden and to the south and east to include the Alps in Austria and Switerland, and the Julian Alps in Slovenia.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Many cacti can be successful houseplants. All are succulent plants, and they have two basic kinds of growth. Forest cacti are epiphytes that grow in trees and have flattened, green, leafy-looking stems with few or no spines. Desert cacti, those of dry, hot climates, have thick stems and usually many spines. They can be globular, cylindrical, columnar or have paddle-shaped stems. An indoor forest cactus requires care different from the care an indoor desert cactus needs.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter.
Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it.
Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn.
Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes.
A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus.
Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11.
Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
This world can never have enough love, happiness or cactus. Actually, the latter can bring the former and you can spread cactus around if you grow cactus from cuttings. Read on to learn how to grow cactus from cuttings.
Step 1
Choose your cactus. Any with thick, fat pads and spindly arms will grow from cuttings.
Step 2
Snip off a small to medium pad or arm at the base.
Step 3
Cut the bottom inch or two off the cut piece and leave in a shady area for three days so it dries out.
Step 4
Plant about 3 inches deep in a hole you’ve dug. Secure with stakes to prop upright if needed.
Step 5
Water daily for three days and then every other day for the rest of the week. Switch to weekly watering and watch it grow.
Step 1
Choose your cactus. Any with thick, fat pads and spindly arms will grow from cuttings.
Step 2
Snip off a small to medium pad or arm at the base.
Step 3
Cut the bottom inch or two off the cut piece and leave in a shady area for three days so it dries out.
Step 4
Plant about 3 inches deep in a hole you’ve dug. Secure with stakes to prop upright if needed.
Step 5
Water daily for three days and then every other day for the rest of the week. Switch to weekly watering and watch it grow.
0
2
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus plants (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are epiphytes that grow naturally in trees in Brazil. They absorb moisture and nutrients from debris that gets caught in the tree branches. Commonly grown as houseplants, they can also be grown outdoors in pots in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, as long as they are brought indoors if the weather gets too cold. They can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but their stems will be severely damaged.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
Light and Temperature
Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly.
Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers.
Moisture Requirements
Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers.
Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot.
Fertilizer Requirements
Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water.
Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer.
Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering.
Proper Pruning
Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot.
At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers.
Disease Susceptibility
Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting.
Problematic Pests
Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors.
As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush.
Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Succulents are often exotic-looking plants with thick, fleshy leaves and stems designed to store water and help the plants thrive in warm, dry areas. Succulents grow throughout the world and include such diverse plants as jade (Crassula argentea), which grows as a perennial outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, and greenii hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum subspecies greenii), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. Although certain succulents must be moved indoors during the winter months in some U.S. locations, many thrive outdoors in even very cold temperatures when they receive proper care.
Plant Winter-Hardy Varieties
Choose winter-hardy succulents for the easiest winter care. Those plants include greenii hens and chicks, hardy ice plant (Delosperma cooperi, USDA zones 5 through 11) and 'Golden Sword' yucca (Yucca filamentosa 'Golden Sword', USDA zones 4 through 9). Although these succulents may wither or change color during cold weather, that is normal, and you will not have to provide them with winter protection.
Keep the Soil Dry
In northern U.S. states, succulents need far less water during the winter months than they do in summer. Stop fertilizing and watering succulents in late fall to prevent hydrated plants from freezing during winter. During cold months, keep their soil as dry as possible, and ensure your succulents receive enough air circulation to prevent dampness. If the soil around your succulents appears wet, then add sand to the soil to keep the plants' roots dry. A mixture that is one-third loam, one-third sand and one-third peat moss is reliable.
Protect Them from Frost
If freezing temperatures are expected, cover the succulents with fabric, such as an old bed sheet, or with a frost cloth, which is available from plant nurseries. Completely cover the succulents with the material, and place cinder blocks or other heavy objects on the material's edges to keep it in place. Avoid using a plastic cover, which prevents air circulation and makes sunlight too intense for plants.
As soon as the danger of frost passes, remove the material to encourage air circulation and provide sunlight.
Relocate Them as Needed
If your succulents are in pots, then place them in the most ideal conditions possible for cold weather. For example, put the potted plants in a sunny location under a porch or eaves if winters in your area are rainy. If temperatures become cooler than normal, place the container succulents near boulders, shrubs or walls that face south or west; those structures and plants retain heat.
Another option is to move potted succulents indoors to help them thrive during frosty weeks or months. Place them in front of a bright, sunny window, and water their soil to prevent the plants from withering; water thoroughly, until water comes out the pots' bottom drain holes. Allow the soil to dry out completely before you water again.
Do not fertilize the succulents during the winter months.
Plant Winter-Hardy Varieties
Choose winter-hardy succulents for the easiest winter care. Those plants include greenii hens and chicks, hardy ice plant (Delosperma cooperi, USDA zones 5 through 11) and 'Golden Sword' yucca (Yucca filamentosa 'Golden Sword', USDA zones 4 through 9). Although these succulents may wither or change color during cold weather, that is normal, and you will not have to provide them with winter protection.
Keep the Soil Dry
In northern U.S. states, succulents need far less water during the winter months than they do in summer. Stop fertilizing and watering succulents in late fall to prevent hydrated plants from freezing during winter. During cold months, keep their soil as dry as possible, and ensure your succulents receive enough air circulation to prevent dampness. If the soil around your succulents appears wet, then add sand to the soil to keep the plants' roots dry. A mixture that is one-third loam, one-third sand and one-third peat moss is reliable.
Protect Them from Frost
If freezing temperatures are expected, cover the succulents with fabric, such as an old bed sheet, or with a frost cloth, which is available from plant nurseries. Completely cover the succulents with the material, and place cinder blocks or other heavy objects on the material's edges to keep it in place. Avoid using a plastic cover, which prevents air circulation and makes sunlight too intense for plants.
As soon as the danger of frost passes, remove the material to encourage air circulation and provide sunlight.
Relocate Them as Needed
If your succulents are in pots, then place them in the most ideal conditions possible for cold weather. For example, put the potted plants in a sunny location under a porch or eaves if winters in your area are rainy. If temperatures become cooler than normal, place the container succulents near boulders, shrubs or walls that face south or west; those structures and plants retain heat.
Another option is to move potted succulents indoors to help them thrive during frosty weeks or months. Place them in front of a bright, sunny window, and water their soil to prevent the plants from withering; water thoroughly, until water comes out the pots' bottom drain holes. Allow the soil to dry out completely before you water again.
Do not fertilize the succulents during the winter months.
3
4
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Agave plants (Agave spp.) thrive in desert gardens and in sandy soils with little moisture. They grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, depending on the variety. Although agaves die after flowering, they have a long flowering cycle and can live for eight to 60 years. These desert succulents transplant well and tolerate disturbance, so you can move the plants to a new area at any time during the spring and summer growing season.
Safety First
Most agave varieties have sharp spines along the edges of the leaves. The sap is also a common skin irritant and can cause allergic reactions. Before handling the agave, protect your skin and eyes. Heavy leather gloves, long sleeves and long pants provide skin protection. Wear eye protection so sap doesn't get into your eyes. Protecting the plant is also necessary. Disinfect any knives, shears or spade blades you will use to prune and cut through the plant to minimize bacterial soft rot and other disease problems. Wiping them with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol kills any disease pathogens or pests.
Plant Preparation
Small plants, called pups or offsets, often grow up around the base of the main mother plant. Each of these pups grows into a new agave if you separate it from the mother. Cut these off just below the soil surface with a knife or the edge of the spade. Removing the outer leaves of a large agave plant lessens the weight during transplanting and results in a healthier looking plant. Peel the outer ragged leaves off the plant and dispose of them, leaving only the intact, healthy looking rosette of leaves in the center. Tie a string loosely around a remaining leaf on the west side of the agave to mark it, but avoid tying it too tightly and cutting into the leaf.
Digging Right
A shovel lifts the entire plant and keeps you well away from the spiny foliage. Insert the shovel blade into the soil around the outer perimeter of the root zone, working around the plant until the soil is loosened. Slide the shovel under the root system and pry the agave out of the ground. Some roots will break, but this doesn't cause any long-lasting harm. After lifting the agave, dust any exposed wounds with sulfur powder to ward off infection. The wounds on any removed pups also benefit from a sulfur dusting before you replant them.
Transplanting Success
A site with sandy, fast-draining soil that receives all-day sunlight provides the best location for an agave or agave pup. Transplant at the same depth the agave was growing at previously and set it so the string-marked side is facing west. Planting agave so it faces the same direction prevents the side used to shade from sun damage. Spacing requirements vary depending on the agave variety, so leave enough room between plants so they can reach their full size without crowding. If you can't transplant right away, set the agave in a shaded location for two or three days and let any wounds dry over. After planting, cover the agave with a shade cloth to protect it from the direct sunlight as the roots establish in the new site, but remove the cloth as soon as new growth becomes apparent. Watering isn't usually necessary, but you can water just enough so the soil is barely moistened if the soil is completely dry and the plant has resumed growth.
Safety First
Most agave varieties have sharp spines along the edges of the leaves. The sap is also a common skin irritant and can cause allergic reactions. Before handling the agave, protect your skin and eyes. Heavy leather gloves, long sleeves and long pants provide skin protection. Wear eye protection so sap doesn't get into your eyes. Protecting the plant is also necessary. Disinfect any knives, shears or spade blades you will use to prune and cut through the plant to minimize bacterial soft rot and other disease problems. Wiping them with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol kills any disease pathogens or pests.
Plant Preparation
Small plants, called pups or offsets, often grow up around the base of the main mother plant. Each of these pups grows into a new agave if you separate it from the mother. Cut these off just below the soil surface with a knife or the edge of the spade. Removing the outer leaves of a large agave plant lessens the weight during transplanting and results in a healthier looking plant. Peel the outer ragged leaves off the plant and dispose of them, leaving only the intact, healthy looking rosette of leaves in the center. Tie a string loosely around a remaining leaf on the west side of the agave to mark it, but avoid tying it too tightly and cutting into the leaf.
Digging Right
A shovel lifts the entire plant and keeps you well away from the spiny foliage. Insert the shovel blade into the soil around the outer perimeter of the root zone, working around the plant until the soil is loosened. Slide the shovel under the root system and pry the agave out of the ground. Some roots will break, but this doesn't cause any long-lasting harm. After lifting the agave, dust any exposed wounds with sulfur powder to ward off infection. The wounds on any removed pups also benefit from a sulfur dusting before you replant them.
Transplanting Success
A site with sandy, fast-draining soil that receives all-day sunlight provides the best location for an agave or agave pup. Transplant at the same depth the agave was growing at previously and set it so the string-marked side is facing west. Planting agave so it faces the same direction prevents the side used to shade from sun damage. Spacing requirements vary depending on the agave variety, so leave enough room between plants so they can reach their full size without crowding. If you can't transplant right away, set the agave in a shaded location for two or three days and let any wounds dry over. After planting, cover the agave with a shade cloth to protect it from the direct sunlight as the roots establish in the new site, but remove the cloth as soon as new growth becomes apparent. Watering isn't usually necessary, but you can water just enough so the soil is barely moistened if the soil is completely dry and the plant has resumed growth.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cacti are angiosperms. Although cacti grow slowly, their life cycles are the same as for any other flowering plant. Cacti reproduce sexually through flower and seed production, or asexually by the fragmentation and rooting of stems.
Germination
Cactus seeds are often distributed by birds, which are attracted to the fruit. Germination occurs in the presence of sufficient water and warm temperatures.
Vegetative Growth
After seed germination it can take several months for the basic barrel shape of the cactus seedling to become visible. It takes five to 10 years for small species to reach flowering size.
Flowering
If there has been sufficient rainfall, flowering occurs in most species during the spring, once temperatures are warm enough.
Pollination
Most cacti are self-sterile, requiring pollen from a different individual plant. Depending on the cactus species, bees, wasps, beetles, butterflies, moths, birds and bats can pollinate cactus flowers.
Fruit Formation
Cactus fruits are seed-filled berries. They form at the base of the flowers and are often brightly colored and sweet to attract birds.
Forced Flowering
In cultivation, cactus plants can sometimes be induced to flower by keeping them in a dark place for up to six weeks and then providing light and water.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Yucca cane plants grow as indoor houseplants and as outdoor ornamental plants in the garden. Yucca thrives at temperatures between 60 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit with partial shade. If you live in an area with freezing winters, plant your yucca canes in containers so they can be brought indoors during the cold months.
Repot the Plant
Step 1
Repot the yucca cane plant every two years. Choose a growing container at least 2 inches larger than the previous pot.
Step 2
Place 1 inch of pea gravel in the bottom of the growing container. This will help the water drain.
Step 3
Fill the container with a mixture comprised of three parts peat moss and one part sand.
Step 4
Remove the plant from the existing container and gently shake the soil medium from the roots.
Step 5
Dig a hole in the center of the container large enough for the root ball of the plant.
Step 6
Center the root ball in the hole and cover with the growing medium, packing the soil mixture around the stem and roots of the plant.
Step 7
Water the plant until water drains from the bottom of the container.
Other Care
Step 8
Place the yucca plant in a sunny window or an area that receives full light for part of the day.
Step 9
Water the plant only when the soil is dry. Insert a pencil or a chopstick 2 inches into the soil. Remove the pencil -- if it is completely dry, water the plant.
Step 10
Fertilize the plant using a 19-6-12 slow release fertilizer according to label directions every three months.
Step 11
Place the plants outdoors during the late spring and early summer.
1
1
