文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are very beautiful and delicate flowers, but they can be difficult to grow because they are temperamental by nature. They require a loose potting material to grow properly and stay upright. There are premixed varieties of potting materials for orchids, but you can learn make your own if you want to save a bit of money and customize your potting to your watering habits. Once you have learned the basic idea, you can re-create it in any amount you like to keep it on hand or plant several orchids with one batch of potting material mix.
Mixtures
If you prefer to mix a few types of potting media, use charcoal, fir bark and peat moss. All three are loose materials that will allow for a very small amount of water storage for the orchid, but mainly they will hold the plant in place without "packing" it in too tightly. Use 1 cup of both medium-grade charcoal and peat moss mixed with 6 cups of fir bark. Mix the materials together loosely with your hands, and gently pour it into the pot. Do not pack the materials down around the plant. Simply place them in a way to hold the plant steady.
Single Material Potting Media
Several types of potting mediums work well for orchids. The difference between them is water retention. If you frequently forget to water your plants, or if you are worried about dryness for any reason, use peat moss or fir bark chips because they hold on to more moisture than other potting mediums. If you are more worried about overwatering than drying, use a medium like clay pellets or rock wool because they dry quickly and will keep excess water away from the plant. If you are not worried about either overwatering or underwatering, use any of the potting mixtures you choose. Try a few and see which one you like best.
The most common mediums for orchids, besides those already listed, are fir bark chips, redwood bark chips, osmunda fiber, tree fern fiber, coconut fiber, coconut chips, sifted perlite, granular charcoal and cork. Use a combination of any of the mediums you like, or use them individually. The main goals for potting orchids are proper irrigation, water retention control, and support.
Mixtures
If you prefer to mix a few types of potting media, use charcoal, fir bark and peat moss. All three are loose materials that will allow for a very small amount of water storage for the orchid, but mainly they will hold the plant in place without "packing" it in too tightly. Use 1 cup of both medium-grade charcoal and peat moss mixed with 6 cups of fir bark. Mix the materials together loosely with your hands, and gently pour it into the pot. Do not pack the materials down around the plant. Simply place them in a way to hold the plant steady.
Single Material Potting Media
Several types of potting mediums work well for orchids. The difference between them is water retention. If you frequently forget to water your plants, or if you are worried about dryness for any reason, use peat moss or fir bark chips because they hold on to more moisture than other potting mediums. If you are more worried about overwatering than drying, use a medium like clay pellets or rock wool because they dry quickly and will keep excess water away from the plant. If you are not worried about either overwatering or underwatering, use any of the potting mixtures you choose. Try a few and see which one you like best.
The most common mediums for orchids, besides those already listed, are fir bark chips, redwood bark chips, osmunda fiber, tree fern fiber, coconut fiber, coconut chips, sifted perlite, granular charcoal and cork. Use a combination of any of the mediums you like, or use them individually. The main goals for potting orchids are proper irrigation, water retention control, and support.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Despite their upscale reputation, orchids can be as easy to grow as more plebian plants. Among the varieties recommended for novices are the moth orchid (Phalaenopsis spp.), dancing ladies orchid (Oncidium spp. ), slipper orchid (Paphiopedilum spp.), and florist's orchid (Cattleya spp.). The first type is perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 to 12 and the second in USDA zones 10 to 11, while the hardiness of the latter two varies according to species from USDA zones 10 to 12. Most orchids are grown as potted house plants or greenhouse plants.
Windows and Warmth
Moth and slipper orchids will burn if given too much sunlight. They should occupy an east- or west-facing windowsill where they receive only a few hours of early morning or late afternoon rays or bright, indirect light. Dancing ladies and florist's orchids require stronger illumination. Place them on a sunny south-facing windowsill with a sheer curtain between them and the glass. Orchids will also grow happily under two shop lights, hung side by side 6 to 12 inches above the plants' leaves and timed to run for 12 to 16 hours every day. Position the most light-loving plants under the center of the four fluorescent tubes and the others closer to the ends. Orchids prefer a 10-degree drop in night-time temperatures, which you can provide for part of the year by keeping them outdoors -- on a roofed porch or under the high shade of a tree -- during summer.
Soil and Sustenance
Because most of these orchids grow on trees in their native habitats, they should be potted in orchid bark rather than soil. The exception is the semi-terrestrial slipper orchid, which needs a constantly damp medium, so grow it in an orchid mix which combines both compost and bark. For plants potted solely in bark, apply a high-nitrogen orchid plant food such as 30-10-10 once every two weeks during spring and summer, mixing 1/4 teaspoon of the plant food crystals with 1 gallon of water. For those whose mix contains soil, opt for a balanced 20-20-20 plant food every two weeks, using 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water. In the fall, switch to a 10-30-20 plant food for all types, at the 1/2 teaspoon per gallon rate, to encourage bud production. Reduce the feedings to once a month at the same rate during the winter.
H2O and Humidity
With the exception of the slipper types, whose soil should be kept lightly moist, the orchids should be allowed to almost dry out before you water them again. They usually won't need to be watered more than twice a week during the summer months, perhaps once a week during the winter. If you grow your orchids in cache pots -- outer pots which conceal the inner ones -- be sure to empty the excess water out of those pots or the plants' roots will rot. To help provide the high humidity orchids prefer, place trays of gravel beneath the pots, but always keep the water level in those trays below the surface of the gravel.
Pests and Pathogens
These orchids can suffer from aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and thrips, which give the appearance respectively of green lice, brown bumps, mottled leaves with webbing, and white streaks on the flowers. Spray the plants thoroughly in the early morning with insecticidal soap, using about 1 1/4 tablespoons of the soap solution per quart of water. Repeat the treatment two days later for aphids or one week later for other insects. If kept too wet and/or cold, orchids can also suffer from black or brown blotches or rot on the foliage. Use pruning shears or a pruning knife to cut out the affected areas, dipping the blade or blades between cuts in a mix of 1 part rubbing alcohol and 1 part water, and dust the cut edges with an anti-fungal such as powdered cinnamon.
Windows and Warmth
Moth and slipper orchids will burn if given too much sunlight. They should occupy an east- or west-facing windowsill where they receive only a few hours of early morning or late afternoon rays or bright, indirect light. Dancing ladies and florist's orchids require stronger illumination. Place them on a sunny south-facing windowsill with a sheer curtain between them and the glass. Orchids will also grow happily under two shop lights, hung side by side 6 to 12 inches above the plants' leaves and timed to run for 12 to 16 hours every day. Position the most light-loving plants under the center of the four fluorescent tubes and the others closer to the ends. Orchids prefer a 10-degree drop in night-time temperatures, which you can provide for part of the year by keeping them outdoors -- on a roofed porch or under the high shade of a tree -- during summer.
Soil and Sustenance
Because most of these orchids grow on trees in their native habitats, they should be potted in orchid bark rather than soil. The exception is the semi-terrestrial slipper orchid, which needs a constantly damp medium, so grow it in an orchid mix which combines both compost and bark. For plants potted solely in bark, apply a high-nitrogen orchid plant food such as 30-10-10 once every two weeks during spring and summer, mixing 1/4 teaspoon of the plant food crystals with 1 gallon of water. For those whose mix contains soil, opt for a balanced 20-20-20 plant food every two weeks, using 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of water. In the fall, switch to a 10-30-20 plant food for all types, at the 1/2 teaspoon per gallon rate, to encourage bud production. Reduce the feedings to once a month at the same rate during the winter.
H2O and Humidity
With the exception of the slipper types, whose soil should be kept lightly moist, the orchids should be allowed to almost dry out before you water them again. They usually won't need to be watered more than twice a week during the summer months, perhaps once a week during the winter. If you grow your orchids in cache pots -- outer pots which conceal the inner ones -- be sure to empty the excess water out of those pots or the plants' roots will rot. To help provide the high humidity orchids prefer, place trays of gravel beneath the pots, but always keep the water level in those trays below the surface of the gravel.
Pests and Pathogens
These orchids can suffer from aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and thrips, which give the appearance respectively of green lice, brown bumps, mottled leaves with webbing, and white streaks on the flowers. Spray the plants thoroughly in the early morning with insecticidal soap, using about 1 1/4 tablespoons of the soap solution per quart of water. Repeat the treatment two days later for aphids or one week later for other insects. If kept too wet and/or cold, orchids can also suffer from black or brown blotches or rot on the foliage. Use pruning shears or a pruning knife to cut out the affected areas, dipping the blade or blades between cuts in a mix of 1 part rubbing alcohol and 1 part water, and dust the cut edges with an anti-fungal such as powdered cinnamon.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Contrary to popular belief, orchids are not difficult to grow as houseplants. However, these exotic plants have different cultural needs than most varieties of houseplants. Prematurely wilting flowers are frequently a sign of incorrect growing conditions that affect the overall health of the plant. Providing the proper care encourages the growth of healthy foliage and abundant blossoms.
Blossoms
Depending on the variety of orchid, the average blossom season lasts one to two months. During this time, numerous buds open and wilt until the end of the blossoming season. Some varieties, such as Phalaenopsis, produce a continual supply of blossoms for a period up to three months. Most varieties produce new blossoms the following year although some orchids bloom two or three times each year. Negligence can cause plants to stop flowering prematurely or wilt suddenly.
Environment
Orchids need a controlled environment to produce healthy blossoms. Nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for orchids, while daytime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit provide the best environment for orchids. These plants prefer about a 10-degree difference between the daytime and nighttime temperatures. Orchids require at least eight hours of sunlight each day. Inadequate light is one of the main reasons for depleted blossoms and reluctance to bloom. These plants flourish in sunny windowsills as long as the heat remains near 75 degrees. However, moving a wilting plant from a shady location directly into full sunlight can shock the plant. Gradually acclimate a wilting orchid by placing it in sunlight for a few hours each day.
Moisture
Like many tropical exotics, orchids require even soil moisture at all times. Orchids in full bloom tend to require more water than orchids with only foliage. Providing additional water during the flowering season discourages wilting due to dehydration. A pot with good drainage holes and a layer of sphagnum moss over the loamy soil ensures sufficient moisture and adequate drainage.
Nutrients
Although most orchids come from the nursery potted in rich, nutritious orchid media, continued growth can deplete the soil of nutrients. Applying a diluted fertilizer once each week during the flowering season will encourage healthy, long-lived blossoms. Select a fertilizer labeled for use on orchids and follow the label instructions for mixing and applying the plant food.
Blossoms
Depending on the variety of orchid, the average blossom season lasts one to two months. During this time, numerous buds open and wilt until the end of the blossoming season. Some varieties, such as Phalaenopsis, produce a continual supply of blossoms for a period up to three months. Most varieties produce new blossoms the following year although some orchids bloom two or three times each year. Negligence can cause plants to stop flowering prematurely or wilt suddenly.
Environment
Orchids need a controlled environment to produce healthy blossoms. Nighttime temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit are ideal for orchids, while daytime temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit provide the best environment for orchids. These plants prefer about a 10-degree difference between the daytime and nighttime temperatures. Orchids require at least eight hours of sunlight each day. Inadequate light is one of the main reasons for depleted blossoms and reluctance to bloom. These plants flourish in sunny windowsills as long as the heat remains near 75 degrees. However, moving a wilting plant from a shady location directly into full sunlight can shock the plant. Gradually acclimate a wilting orchid by placing it in sunlight for a few hours each day.
Moisture
Like many tropical exotics, orchids require even soil moisture at all times. Orchids in full bloom tend to require more water than orchids with only foliage. Providing additional water during the flowering season discourages wilting due to dehydration. A pot with good drainage holes and a layer of sphagnum moss over the loamy soil ensures sufficient moisture and adequate drainage.
Nutrients
Although most orchids come from the nursery potted in rich, nutritious orchid media, continued growth can deplete the soil of nutrients. Applying a diluted fertilizer once each week during the flowering season will encourage healthy, long-lived blossoms. Select a fertilizer labeled for use on orchids and follow the label instructions for mixing and applying the plant food.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids have an undeserved reputation for being difficult to grow and easy to kill, which, unfortunately, causes many people to shy away from growing them in their homes. In reality, you can grow many popular orchid species, such as Cattleya, Phalaenopsis and Dendrobium, at home with simple, common-sense care. Overwatering is a common concern when growing orchids; the ice cube watering method is a simple trick that you can use to avoid over-irrigating your new houseplant.
Sunlight
Orchids require just the right amount of sunlight in order to grow successfully. If provided too little sunlight, the plant will fail to blossom; if provided too much sunlight, the blossoms will fade and the foliage will burn. The best way to expose your orchid to the sunlight it needs is to place it within 4 feet of a sunny south-facing window where it can receive filtered light for at least four hours each day.
Water
If it's your first time growing an orchid, knowing just how much water to give your new houseplant may seem a bit tricky. Fortunately, using the ice cube watering method takes all the guesswork out of irrigating your orchid. Simply arrange three standard-size ice cubes on the surface of the potting mix around the plant; avoid letting the ice touch the orchid directly. As the ice cubes melt, they will slowly and evenly moisten the potting mix. Water your orchid once a week using this method.
Fertilize
When grown in their native climates, orchids use their thick, fleshy roots to draw nutrients from the air around them. When you grow them indoors as houseplants, you must provide nutrients for your orchids by following a regular fertilization schedule. Feed the orchid with weekly applications of a specially formulated orchid fertilizer from early spring through summer. Cease fertilization during the fall and winter months; the plant is not actively growing and doesn't need the steady stream of supplemental nutrients.
Re-pot
Occasional re-potting is essential to maintaining the long-term health of your orchid. The University of Tennessee recommends re-potting indoor orchids every one to three years to replace the potting mix and to trim out any problematic roots. Gently remove the orchid from its planting container and rinse its roots under warm running water. Feel the roots with your fingertips; healthy roots will feel stiff and turgid. Use a sharpened and sterilized gardening knife to cut out any roots that are brown or mushy. Repot the orchid in a well-draining potting mix composed of equal parts peat moss, redwood bark, charcoal and volcanic rock.
Sunlight
Orchids require just the right amount of sunlight in order to grow successfully. If provided too little sunlight, the plant will fail to blossom; if provided too much sunlight, the blossoms will fade and the foliage will burn. The best way to expose your orchid to the sunlight it needs is to place it within 4 feet of a sunny south-facing window where it can receive filtered light for at least four hours each day.
Water
If it's your first time growing an orchid, knowing just how much water to give your new houseplant may seem a bit tricky. Fortunately, using the ice cube watering method takes all the guesswork out of irrigating your orchid. Simply arrange three standard-size ice cubes on the surface of the potting mix around the plant; avoid letting the ice touch the orchid directly. As the ice cubes melt, they will slowly and evenly moisten the potting mix. Water your orchid once a week using this method.
Fertilize
When grown in their native climates, orchids use their thick, fleshy roots to draw nutrients from the air around them. When you grow them indoors as houseplants, you must provide nutrients for your orchids by following a regular fertilization schedule. Feed the orchid with weekly applications of a specially formulated orchid fertilizer from early spring through summer. Cease fertilization during the fall and winter months; the plant is not actively growing and doesn't need the steady stream of supplemental nutrients.
Re-pot
Occasional re-potting is essential to maintaining the long-term health of your orchid. The University of Tennessee recommends re-potting indoor orchids every one to three years to replace the potting mix and to trim out any problematic roots. Gently remove the orchid from its planting container and rinse its roots under warm running water. Feel the roots with your fingertips; healthy roots will feel stiff and turgid. Use a sharpened and sterilized gardening knife to cut out any roots that are brown or mushy. Repot the orchid in a well-draining potting mix composed of equal parts peat moss, redwood bark, charcoal and volcanic rock.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are tropical plants that exist in more than 25,000 varieties. They grow in a wide range of environments, from arctic tundras to rain forests, writes Dr. Leonard Perry, a University of Vermont horticulturist. Some types grow in soil, while others grow on the sides of trees, taking their nourishment from the air and moisture around the trees, as well as from bits of decaying organic matter. As with all plants, orchids require nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to grow. Although they require little fertilizing, providing proper nutrients will help them to thrive, and you can make your own orchid fertilizer.
Step 1
Place ½ lb. used coffee grounds into a 5-gallon bucket. Fill the bucket with water and allow the mixture to sit overnight. Filter out the grounds with cheesecloth. Discard the grounds, keeping the liquid.
Step 2
Heat 10 broken eggshells in a 200-degree oven for 30 minutes to kill bacteria. Allow the eggshells to cool. Grind them in a food processor, breaking them up to a fine powder if possible. Place the ground up shells in a jar with water and allow them to soak for five days. Filter out the powder with cheesecloth and discard it. The remaining water is a rich source of calcium for plants.
Step 3
Dilute 1 tsp. plain molasses in 1 pint water and mix vigorously. Molasses will give the plant additional potassium for essential growth processes.
Step 4
Add equal amounts of coffee grounds water, eggshell water and molasses water to a 5-gallon bucket.
Step 5
Mix the ingredients thoroughly.
Step 6
Dilute the solution by half and apply to the orchid growing medium in place of watering. Fertilize monthly with the mixture. Store any left over mixture in covered containers in a refrigerator
Step 1
Place ½ lb. used coffee grounds into a 5-gallon bucket. Fill the bucket with water and allow the mixture to sit overnight. Filter out the grounds with cheesecloth. Discard the grounds, keeping the liquid.
Step 2
Heat 10 broken eggshells in a 200-degree oven for 30 minutes to kill bacteria. Allow the eggshells to cool. Grind them in a food processor, breaking them up to a fine powder if possible. Place the ground up shells in a jar with water and allow them to soak for five days. Filter out the powder with cheesecloth and discard it. The remaining water is a rich source of calcium for plants.
Step 3
Dilute 1 tsp. plain molasses in 1 pint water and mix vigorously. Molasses will give the plant additional potassium for essential growth processes.
Step 4
Add equal amounts of coffee grounds water, eggshell water and molasses water to a 5-gallon bucket.
Step 5
Mix the ingredients thoroughly.
Step 6
Dilute the solution by half and apply to the orchid growing medium in place of watering. Fertilize monthly with the mixture. Store any left over mixture in covered containers in a refrigerator
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids are known for their beautiful, aromatic flowers. They are originally from tropical regions, but can grow in most places with the proper care. Like other plants, you can clone orchids through a method called propagation.
Step 1
Mix a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and use it to clean the razor blade or knife you're using to cut the orchid stem and the pots that the new orchids are being planted in.
Step 2
Put on clean gloves or wash your hands to avoid contaminating the orchid.
Step 3
Cut a 12-inch-long stem from the plant, then cut the 12-inch section into smaller parts that are 3 to 4 inches long. When cutting the stem into smaller sections, make sure that each one has at least one dormant bud on it.
Step 4
Lay the cut stems onto damp sphagnum moss. Move the stems and moss to a place that is shaded and humid, leaving them there until small plants begin to emerge from the buds.
Step 5
Place standard orchid compost into the pots, then plant the new orchids into the pots.
Step 6
Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer to the soil.
Step 7
Place the plants into a humid, well-lit area where they will receive 12 to 14 hours of light every day. Water the orchids once a week.
Step 1
Mix a solution of 1 part bleach to 3 parts water and use it to clean the razor blade or knife you're using to cut the orchid stem and the pots that the new orchids are being planted in.
Step 2
Put on clean gloves or wash your hands to avoid contaminating the orchid.
Step 3
Cut a 12-inch-long stem from the plant, then cut the 12-inch section into smaller parts that are 3 to 4 inches long. When cutting the stem into smaller sections, make sure that each one has at least one dormant bud on it.
Step 4
Lay the cut stems onto damp sphagnum moss. Move the stems and moss to a place that is shaded and humid, leaving them there until small plants begin to emerge from the buds.
Step 5
Place standard orchid compost into the pots, then plant the new orchids into the pots.
Step 6
Apply a 10-10-10 fertilizer to the soil.
Step 7
Place the plants into a humid, well-lit area where they will receive 12 to 14 hours of light every day. Water the orchids once a week.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Pet dogs and cats tend to get into things they shouldn't, whether indoors or out. Among the most unnerving concerns is knowing which plants in the yard or house are toxic to your furry companions. In the United States, native orchids grow outdoors in sunny fields and woodlands and in shade gardens. A wide array of tropical orchids are also grown as houseplants, and also used as cut flowers in bouquets. Generally speaking, orchids are not poisonous to cats or dogs.
Types
lovers. Over the centuries, both orchids and dogs have been extensively bred to create new breeds or genetic lines. While 25,000 orchid species are known worldwide, at least 100,000 hybrids or grexes are registered. The genetic lineages of modern orchid hybrids are complex and confusing. While orchids are not considered toxic to dogs and cats, there always is a chance that an orchid hybrid carries that one odd gene that creates a harmful compound in leaves or flowers that could cause sickness in a pet.
Plant Lists
The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals currently publishes extensive lists of both known toxic and nontoxic plants for dogs and cats on its website. The lists are nonexhaustive, and include only the most commonly encountered plants in the United States. As of 2011, no orchids are listed as being toxic for either dogs or cats, with several orchids explicitly listed on the nontoxic list for both animals.
Prevention
animal -- its body mass -- and the amount of plant eaten affects the reaction seen. Smaller animals need to eat less plant material to be affected. Sometimes the fresh greenery upsets the stomach and leads to usual coughing and vomiting of hairballs. Even though there is some evidence from the ASPCA that most orchids aren't toxic to these critters, not all orchids are represented or tested. If possible, discourage or train your dog or cat to not eat orchids. Your first reaction should be identify the plant eaten, to be certain it truly is an orchid, especially if hiking in the wild. Assume the orchid isn't harmful, but monitor the pet and watch for symptoms of sickness such as foaming of the mouth, change in demeanor or other behavioral changes. Contact your veterinarian if symptoms arise and you suspect any plant was eaten.
Plant Names
The name "orchid" is not specific unless the plant is in the orchid family, Orchidaceae. Many non-orchid-family plants may be colloquially called orchids or superficially resemble an orchid. Plants that have a common name of orchid but are not in the orchid family may be toxic to dogs or cats. It depends on the precise identity of the plant. For example, the orchid tree is not a real orchid, but a member of the legume family, Fabaceae. Conversely, not all true orchids are commonly called orchids, but by more ambiguous names such as lady slippers or lady's tresses. This can add to the anxiety associated with a family dog or cat eating an unknown plant, or one that somebody referred to as an orchid or looks like an orchid.
Types
lovers. Over the centuries, both orchids and dogs have been extensively bred to create new breeds or genetic lines. While 25,000 orchid species are known worldwide, at least 100,000 hybrids or grexes are registered. The genetic lineages of modern orchid hybrids are complex and confusing. While orchids are not considered toxic to dogs and cats, there always is a chance that an orchid hybrid carries that one odd gene that creates a harmful compound in leaves or flowers that could cause sickness in a pet.
Plant Lists
The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals currently publishes extensive lists of both known toxic and nontoxic plants for dogs and cats on its website. The lists are nonexhaustive, and include only the most commonly encountered plants in the United States. As of 2011, no orchids are listed as being toxic for either dogs or cats, with several orchids explicitly listed on the nontoxic list for both animals.
Prevention
animal -- its body mass -- and the amount of plant eaten affects the reaction seen. Smaller animals need to eat less plant material to be affected. Sometimes the fresh greenery upsets the stomach and leads to usual coughing and vomiting of hairballs. Even though there is some evidence from the ASPCA that most orchids aren't toxic to these critters, not all orchids are represented or tested. If possible, discourage or train your dog or cat to not eat orchids. Your first reaction should be identify the plant eaten, to be certain it truly is an orchid, especially if hiking in the wild. Assume the orchid isn't harmful, but monitor the pet and watch for symptoms of sickness such as foaming of the mouth, change in demeanor or other behavioral changes. Contact your veterinarian if symptoms arise and you suspect any plant was eaten.
Plant Names
The name "orchid" is not specific unless the plant is in the orchid family, Orchidaceae. Many non-orchid-family plants may be colloquially called orchids or superficially resemble an orchid. Plants that have a common name of orchid but are not in the orchid family may be toxic to dogs or cats. It depends on the precise identity of the plant. For example, the orchid tree is not a real orchid, but a member of the legume family, Fabaceae. Conversely, not all true orchids are commonly called orchids, but by more ambiguous names such as lady slippers or lady's tresses. This can add to the anxiety associated with a family dog or cat eating an unknown plant, or one that somebody referred to as an orchid or looks like an orchid.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Orchids, members of the Orchidaceae family, are prized for their attractive and exotic flowers. Considered difficult for amateurs to grow from seed, orchid species may be hardy from USDA zones 4 through 12. From hardy natives to tropical beauties, orchid seeds contain few food reserves, naturally relying on a symbiotic relationship with a fungus to provide their nutrients. Home growers imitate this relationship by sowing orchid seeds on a gelled, algae-based nutrient solution known as agar. Because the seeds and agar are generally kept in a flask, this process is called flasking. Agar or nutrient agar mixtures can be purchased. Alternatively, home growers can make an orchid-flasking, agar medium of their own.
Step 1
Mix water, gelatin, sugar and beef bouillon cubes or granules together in a saucepan. The amount of each used will depend on the amount of growing medium desired, but a sample mixture would have the following ingredient proportions: 4 cups of water, four packets of plain gelatin or a substitutable amount of agar, 8 teaspoons of sugar and four bouillon cubes or 4 teaspoons of bouillon granules.
Step 2
Boil this mixture, stirring constantly.
Step 3
Cool the mixture once it has been brought to a boil and all of the ingredients have dissolved. Keep the mixture sterile. Avoid exposing it to any surfaces, skin or other materials that may harbor any amount of bacteria. Keep it covered to prevent contamination and let it cool for no more than eight minutes.
Step 4
Pour the mixture into sterilized flasks. Purchase sterilized flasks and avoid opening them and exposing them to microorganisms until immediately before they will be filled with the growing medium, or sterilize the flasks in a pressure cooker or oven. In a pressure cooker, sterilize the flasks for 15 minutes at 15 psi (pounds per square inch). For oven sterilization, put glassware in the oven for two to three hours at 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 5
Cover the flasks and let them cool until the gelatin has set. The flasks may be refrigerated to encourage setting.
Step 6
Keep the flasks cool, ideally refrigerated, until the orchid seeds are ready to sow. For best results, the medium should be put to use within three days after you have made it.
Step 1
Mix water, gelatin, sugar and beef bouillon cubes or granules together in a saucepan. The amount of each used will depend on the amount of growing medium desired, but a sample mixture would have the following ingredient proportions: 4 cups of water, four packets of plain gelatin or a substitutable amount of agar, 8 teaspoons of sugar and four bouillon cubes or 4 teaspoons of bouillon granules.
Step 2
Boil this mixture, stirring constantly.
Step 3
Cool the mixture once it has been brought to a boil and all of the ingredients have dissolved. Keep the mixture sterile. Avoid exposing it to any surfaces, skin or other materials that may harbor any amount of bacteria. Keep it covered to prevent contamination and let it cool for no more than eight minutes.
Step 4
Pour the mixture into sterilized flasks. Purchase sterilized flasks and avoid opening them and exposing them to microorganisms until immediately before they will be filled with the growing medium, or sterilize the flasks in a pressure cooker or oven. In a pressure cooker, sterilize the flasks for 15 minutes at 15 psi (pounds per square inch). For oven sterilization, put glassware in the oven for two to three hours at 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
Step 5
Cover the flasks and let them cool until the gelatin has set. The flasks may be refrigerated to encourage setting.
Step 6
Keep the flasks cool, ideally refrigerated, until the orchid seeds are ready to sow. For best results, the medium should be put to use within three days after you have made it.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月11日
Exotic orchids are fascinating to watch and make a fulfilling hobby for the avid collector; but, you don't have to be a collector to enjoy an orchid plant. Orchids are easy to grow, if you know the ins and outs of how to care for them. Repotting an orchid when it's outgrown it's original pot, or planting a cut orchid stem requires a little knowledge of how orchids grow.
Step 1
Choose a mature orchid plant that needs transplanting or dividing. Make sure the plant has completed blooming and is producing new growth before dividing or transplanting cuttings.
Step 2
Remove unhealthy roots from the plant. It is normal for orchid roots to grow outside the pot. Unhealthy roots are those that have developed root rot and are soft and mushy to the touch.
Step 3
Gather your supplies before starting to transplant. Sterilize all tools with either alcohol, a hot flame or a dusting of sulfur. Orchids are prone to infection and this protects the cuttings.
Step 4
Water the plant before repotting to make removal from the pot easier.
Step 5
Tip the plant on its side and remove it from the pot. Tap the bottom of the pot to encourage stubborn plants stuck in the pot.
Step 6
Discard old planting medium by gently removing it from around the roots with your fingers being careful not to break healthy roots.
Step 7
Trim away any dead leaves, wilted blossoms, old growth and rotten roots. Healthy roots should be white or tan. If they are black, hollow, mushy or look like wires, they should be discarded.
Step 8
Divide the plant making sure each section of cut stem has at least three healthy growths with leaves, and some healthy roots attached.
Step 9
Rinse the roots in water to make them more pliable for replanting.
Step 10
Dust all cut ends with sulfur to help prevent infection and encourage healthy new growth.
Step 11
Add the styrofoam peanuts and some new plant medium to the pot and place the plant firmly into the planting medium. Wrap the roots in sphagnum moss, made slightly damp and gently bend the healthy roots so they fit into the new pot.
Step 12
Label the newly planted cutting so you remember which plant is which if you are transplanting more than one breed of orchid.
Step 1
Choose a mature orchid plant that needs transplanting or dividing. Make sure the plant has completed blooming and is producing new growth before dividing or transplanting cuttings.
Step 2
Remove unhealthy roots from the plant. It is normal for orchid roots to grow outside the pot. Unhealthy roots are those that have developed root rot and are soft and mushy to the touch.
Step 3
Gather your supplies before starting to transplant. Sterilize all tools with either alcohol, a hot flame or a dusting of sulfur. Orchids are prone to infection and this protects the cuttings.
Step 4
Water the plant before repotting to make removal from the pot easier.
Step 5
Tip the plant on its side and remove it from the pot. Tap the bottom of the pot to encourage stubborn plants stuck in the pot.
Step 6
Discard old planting medium by gently removing it from around the roots with your fingers being careful not to break healthy roots.
Step 7
Trim away any dead leaves, wilted blossoms, old growth and rotten roots. Healthy roots should be white or tan. If they are black, hollow, mushy or look like wires, they should be discarded.
Step 8
Divide the plant making sure each section of cut stem has at least three healthy growths with leaves, and some healthy roots attached.
Step 9
Rinse the roots in water to make them more pliable for replanting.
Step 10
Dust all cut ends with sulfur to help prevent infection and encourage healthy new growth.
Step 11
Add the styrofoam peanuts and some new plant medium to the pot and place the plant firmly into the planting medium. Wrap the roots in sphagnum moss, made slightly damp and gently bend the healthy roots so they fit into the new pot.
Step 12
Label the newly planted cutting so you remember which plant is which if you are transplanting more than one breed of orchid.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Confederate roses grow on bush-like trees that are quite unlike most standard rose bushes. These plants grow best in the southern states of the U.S., which is where they got their name. The blooms are born in a bright white, and gradually fade into pink and then to blue. They resemble hibiscus flowers more than standard roses. These rose bushes are very successful at growing from cuttings. Take a cutting from an established Confederate rose bush and grow your own.
Step 1
Take your rose cutting from an established plant, at the end of the growing season in fall. Cut 12-inch lengths of rose cane, using sharp pruning shears.
Step 2
Cut the leaves off the Confederate rose cane, leaving only the two last leaves on the end of the stem. Cut the leaves at their base, but do not cut into the stem itself.
Step 3
Fill a quart jar with water. Place the rose stem in the jar, root side down. Set the jar in a sunny window. Roots should form on the stem within a couple weeks.
Step 4
Transplant the newly rooted Confederate rose into new pots when the roots have grown to about 2 inches. Use 6-inch pots, filled with a rich potting soil. Keep the rose in the sun as often as possible, to increase its growth. At this stage, water the roses once a week to keep the soil moist but not wet.
Step 5
Keep the rose bush inside and treat it as one of your houseplants until April, when it will be ready to go outdoors into your rose garden.
Step 1
Take your rose cutting from an established plant, at the end of the growing season in fall. Cut 12-inch lengths of rose cane, using sharp pruning shears.
Step 2
Cut the leaves off the Confederate rose cane, leaving only the two last leaves on the end of the stem. Cut the leaves at their base, but do not cut into the stem itself.
Step 3
Fill a quart jar with water. Place the rose stem in the jar, root side down. Set the jar in a sunny window. Roots should form on the stem within a couple weeks.
Step 4
Transplant the newly rooted Confederate rose into new pots when the roots have grown to about 2 inches. Use 6-inch pots, filled with a rich potting soil. Keep the rose in the sun as often as possible, to increase its growth. At this stage, water the roses once a week to keep the soil moist but not wet.
Step 5
Keep the rose bush inside and treat it as one of your houseplants until April, when it will be ready to go outdoors into your rose garden.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses are a traditional and very elegant flower. Rose bushes can be grown from potted plants or cuttings of existing rose bushes.
Features
Roses grow on rose bushes that can range from miniature (one foot tall) to very large (up to five feet tall). They can also be of climbing varieties, with long stems that act like vines. Rose blooms come in a wide variety of colors.
Rooting Rose Cuttings
Rose cuttings are pieces of rose stem that are cut from existing rose plants. An ideal rose cutting is at least 12 inches long. These cuttings can be placed root-side down in jars of water to take root.
Transplanting Rose Cuttings
Once a rose cutting has rooted, that cutting is transplanted to a pot or to the outdoors for growing.
Lifespans
Rose bushes can be kept indoors as potted plants or taken outside and planted in the garden. Healthy rose bushes can last up to 50 years.
Considerations
Roses suffer from exposure to cold and improper pruning techniques. When gardeners are rooting and growing roses, it's important that they consider their region's temperature and water availability to choose the best variety of rose bush.
Features
Roses grow on rose bushes that can range from miniature (one foot tall) to very large (up to five feet tall). They can also be of climbing varieties, with long stems that act like vines. Rose blooms come in a wide variety of colors.
Rooting Rose Cuttings
Rose cuttings are pieces of rose stem that are cut from existing rose plants. An ideal rose cutting is at least 12 inches long. These cuttings can be placed root-side down in jars of water to take root.
Transplanting Rose Cuttings
Once a rose cutting has rooted, that cutting is transplanted to a pot or to the outdoors for growing.
Lifespans
Rose bushes can be kept indoors as potted plants or taken outside and planted in the garden. Healthy rose bushes can last up to 50 years.
Considerations
Roses suffer from exposure to cold and improper pruning techniques. When gardeners are rooting and growing roses, it's important that they consider their region's temperature and water availability to choose the best variety of rose bush.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
There are many varieties of roses but they all need similar habitats from the soil, and mother nature to survive. If they are tended to and cared for properly, they will thrive for many years without being transplanted.
Sunshine
Roses will grow in a wide variety of applications but they do best in an open, sunny location.
Water
Roses need lots of water. In the absence of rain, ample watering is necessary to insure a healthy plant.
Soil
The soil should be slightly acidic, and have adequate drainage. Place rocks and pebbles underneath the bed. This will allow drainage for the plant. Moisture retention is also important. Try a ground covering of cedar chips or mulch to hold in the moisture.
Fertilizer
Roses like a rich soil. Decaying matter also raises the acidic level of the soil. And roses like that too. Obviously too much isn't good either. Once a year applications are sufficient. But heavy clay and sandy soils need extra fertilizer. Perhaps one half by volume (depending on the soil).
Pruning
It is best to prune just before new growth begins and as the buds begin to swell. Be sure that you are past the frost season or the newly pruned tips may become damaged. Pruning should also be done with sharp pruning shears to avoid damage to the plant.
Sunshine
Roses will grow in a wide variety of applications but they do best in an open, sunny location.
Water
Roses need lots of water. In the absence of rain, ample watering is necessary to insure a healthy plant.
Soil
The soil should be slightly acidic, and have adequate drainage. Place rocks and pebbles underneath the bed. This will allow drainage for the plant. Moisture retention is also important. Try a ground covering of cedar chips or mulch to hold in the moisture.
Fertilizer
Roses like a rich soil. Decaying matter also raises the acidic level of the soil. And roses like that too. Obviously too much isn't good either. Once a year applications are sufficient. But heavy clay and sandy soils need extra fertilizer. Perhaps one half by volume (depending on the soil).
Pruning
It is best to prune just before new growth begins and as the buds begin to swell. Be sure that you are past the frost season or the newly pruned tips may become damaged. Pruning should also be done with sharp pruning shears to avoid damage to the plant.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The world's obsession with roses as symbols of love and devotion has been around for thousands of years. From Europe to China to the Middle East, roses grow all over the world. In great demand, many different types and colors of roses have been cultivated. For those who want to say something with the flowers they give, roses have special meanings assigned to each color.
History
Ever since the Roman Empire, roses have been used to communicate feelings. However, according to Rose Works, the meaning of roses has changed over the centuries. Some cultures offered different meanings than others. During the Victorian era, roses began to represent hidden messages because of social restrictions on what was permissible to be spoken in public.
Meaning
Studies of Love states that cream-colored roses are associated with charm, thoughtfulness and gracefulness. Cream-colored roses also represent richness and perfection, according to What Roses Mean.
Significance
Because a cream-colored rose does not signify love or passion, it is a rose that can be used for many different occasions. If a person simply wants to tell a friend that he is charming or that his thoughtfulness is appreciated, a cream-colored rose sends the message without indicating romantic feelings.
Uses
Cream-colored roses can be paired with pink "thank you" roses. This would be a perfect gift to a hostess who has shown thoughtfulness in inviting you into her home. Or consider giving them to a loved one who may be lonely or going through a hard time as a gesture that she is charming to you. Don't forget to include a note explaining the meaning of the roses you are giving.
Types
For those interested in growing their own symbols of charm and thoughtfulness, there are many varieties of cream-colored roses. Remember that a cream-colored rose is not quite the same as a white rose; they are considered different varieties (and mean different things). Some of these roses will vary in creaminess with hues of yellow, pink, or white mixed in. Some good varieties to try are Irish Hope (which is a mix between a yellow and a cream), Lion's Fairy Tale, Cream Abundance, or French Lace.
History
Ever since the Roman Empire, roses have been used to communicate feelings. However, according to Rose Works, the meaning of roses has changed over the centuries. Some cultures offered different meanings than others. During the Victorian era, roses began to represent hidden messages because of social restrictions on what was permissible to be spoken in public.
Meaning
Studies of Love states that cream-colored roses are associated with charm, thoughtfulness and gracefulness. Cream-colored roses also represent richness and perfection, according to What Roses Mean.
Significance
Because a cream-colored rose does not signify love or passion, it is a rose that can be used for many different occasions. If a person simply wants to tell a friend that he is charming or that his thoughtfulness is appreciated, a cream-colored rose sends the message without indicating romantic feelings.
Uses
Cream-colored roses can be paired with pink "thank you" roses. This would be a perfect gift to a hostess who has shown thoughtfulness in inviting you into her home. Or consider giving them to a loved one who may be lonely or going through a hard time as a gesture that she is charming to you. Don't forget to include a note explaining the meaning of the roses you are giving.
Types
For those interested in growing their own symbols of charm and thoughtfulness, there are many varieties of cream-colored roses. Remember that a cream-colored rose is not quite the same as a white rose; they are considered different varieties (and mean different things). Some of these roses will vary in creaminess with hues of yellow, pink, or white mixed in. Some good varieties to try are Irish Hope (which is a mix between a yellow and a cream), Lion's Fairy Tale, Cream Abundance, or French Lace.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Growing roses from cuttings is an inexpensive and easy way to grow a new rose. It is also the best way to replicate a favorite or antique rose, as the new rose will be identical to the parent plant. Increase your chances of success by taking four or five cuttings, as not all cuttings will root successfully. Take rose cuttings any time of year from stems that have just finished blooming.
Step 1
Use clean, sharp pruners to cut a to 8-inch tip from a rose stem that has recently finished blooming. Remove the wilted bloom or hip and strip off all the leaves. Cut the bottom of the stem at an angle to remind you which end should be planted. Keep the cuttings in a cool, shady place until you're ready to plant them.
Step 2
Fill a container with commercial potting soil that has been dampened ahead of time. Any container will work, as long as the container has drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 3
Dip the angled end of the stem in powdered rooting hormone. Plant the stem in the potting mixture, with the bottom half of the stem buried in the soil. Several stem cuttings can be planted in the same container, as long as they aren't touching.
Step 4
Put a clear plastic bag over the container and secure the bag around the container with a rubber band. Place a bent wire clothes hanger or some small sticks in the bag to prevent the bag from dropping down on the cuttings.
Step 5
Place the container in bright sunlight away from hot, sunny windows. Check the potting soil daily. Although the plastic will keep the environment in the bag damp for up to several weeks, the potting soil should be misted immediately whenever it feels dry to the touch. The soil should be damp, but never dripping.
Step 6
Allow the cuttings to grow until the following spring. At that time, plant each cutting in a 5 to 6-inch pot and allow the cuttings to grow for a few more weeks, or plant them directly into the garden. The rose cuttings should be planted where they will be in sunlight for at least six to eight hours per day. Keep the soil damp.
Step 1
Use clean, sharp pruners to cut a to 8-inch tip from a rose stem that has recently finished blooming. Remove the wilted bloom or hip and strip off all the leaves. Cut the bottom of the stem at an angle to remind you which end should be planted. Keep the cuttings in a cool, shady place until you're ready to plant them.
Step 2
Fill a container with commercial potting soil that has been dampened ahead of time. Any container will work, as long as the container has drainage holes in the bottom.
Step 3
Dip the angled end of the stem in powdered rooting hormone. Plant the stem in the potting mixture, with the bottom half of the stem buried in the soil. Several stem cuttings can be planted in the same container, as long as they aren't touching.
Step 4
Put a clear plastic bag over the container and secure the bag around the container with a rubber band. Place a bent wire clothes hanger or some small sticks in the bag to prevent the bag from dropping down on the cuttings.
Step 5
Place the container in bright sunlight away from hot, sunny windows. Check the potting soil daily. Although the plastic will keep the environment in the bag damp for up to several weeks, the potting soil should be misted immediately whenever it feels dry to the touch. The soil should be damp, but never dripping.
Step 6
Allow the cuttings to grow until the following spring. At that time, plant each cutting in a 5 to 6-inch pot and allow the cuttings to grow for a few more weeks, or plant them directly into the garden. The rose cuttings should be planted where they will be in sunlight for at least six to eight hours per day. Keep the soil damp.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses can reproduce both asexually and sexually. Asexual reproduction does not use seeds and generates exact duplicates, or clones, of the parent rose. If you want to create new varieties of roses, you must grow them from seeds instead of utilizing asexual reproduction methods.
Types of Roses
The method of asexual reproduction to use will differ depending upon the type of rose. According to the article "How Do I Propagate Roses?" in the Ultimate Resource and Learning Center, old roses, English roses and miniatures are the best candidates for softwood rooting because they grow vigorously on their own roots. You can also use hybrid teas and floribundas.
Methods of Asexual Reproduction
There are three methods of asexual reproduction of roses: softwood rooting, hardwood rooting and bud grafting. Rooting refers to cutting a cane of an existing rose and replanting it. Hardwood and softwood rooting are similar processes; according to rosemagazine.com, the only difference is that softwood cuttings are made from shoots that are still green and are kept indoors until they mature. Bud grafting refers to a process in which you cut a bud off a rose bush and insert it into the stem of the rose you want to reproduce.
Hardwood Rooting
To reproduce roses via hardwood rooting, you must begin in late summer or early autumn. Rosemagazine.com says to cut off a cane from an existing rose that is 1 to 2 feet in length. Remove the leaves, twigs and thorns and cut the cane into pieces 6 to 9 inches in length.
Prepare a rooting hormone solution by soaking cut up willow twigs in water overnight. Place the cuttings in the willow water the next day and let them sit overnight.
Once the cuttings have soaked, plant each one in a separate pot filled with potting soil. At least two-thirds of the cutting should be under the soil. Spray the cuttings with water. Place plastic bags over the cuttings and put them outside. They must be shielded from direct sunlight. Over the next month, check the pot once every few days to make sure the cuttings are moist and spray with water as needed. The cuttings will take root within a month.
Softwood Rooting
Rosemagazine.com says that softwood rooting is similar to hardwood rooting, but you should use a green side shoot and trim off all soft growth when preparing the cutting. You should also keep the cuttings indoors until winter is over to ensure they are not exposed to frost. The Ultimate Learning and Resource Center suggests planting your cuttings in plastic bags and transferring them to pots only after the roots have begun to grow.
Bud Grafting
Commercial roses are created by grafting buds onto existing roses. Love-of-Roses.com provides a method for doing this yourself. First, cut a green shoot off the rose bush as you would when softwood rooting roses. Soak the cutting in water overnight. Then cut the buds off the shoot with a sharp knife.
Make a T-shaped cut in the rose to which you are grafting. The top of the T and the base of the T should both be approximately 1 inch long. This cut creates flaps on the stem of the rose; when you peel them back you should see a slimy, green layer, If you have cut into the green layer, you have cut too deeply.
Pop the bud into the cut and bind it with grafting tape or twist ties. Monitor it to make sure roots don't form on the outside of the rose stem.
Types of Roses
The method of asexual reproduction to use will differ depending upon the type of rose. According to the article "How Do I Propagate Roses?" in the Ultimate Resource and Learning Center, old roses, English roses and miniatures are the best candidates for softwood rooting because they grow vigorously on their own roots. You can also use hybrid teas and floribundas.
Methods of Asexual Reproduction
There are three methods of asexual reproduction of roses: softwood rooting, hardwood rooting and bud grafting. Rooting refers to cutting a cane of an existing rose and replanting it. Hardwood and softwood rooting are similar processes; according to rosemagazine.com, the only difference is that softwood cuttings are made from shoots that are still green and are kept indoors until they mature. Bud grafting refers to a process in which you cut a bud off a rose bush and insert it into the stem of the rose you want to reproduce.
Hardwood Rooting
To reproduce roses via hardwood rooting, you must begin in late summer or early autumn. Rosemagazine.com says to cut off a cane from an existing rose that is 1 to 2 feet in length. Remove the leaves, twigs and thorns and cut the cane into pieces 6 to 9 inches in length.
Prepare a rooting hormone solution by soaking cut up willow twigs in water overnight. Place the cuttings in the willow water the next day and let them sit overnight.
Once the cuttings have soaked, plant each one in a separate pot filled with potting soil. At least two-thirds of the cutting should be under the soil. Spray the cuttings with water. Place plastic bags over the cuttings and put them outside. They must be shielded from direct sunlight. Over the next month, check the pot once every few days to make sure the cuttings are moist and spray with water as needed. The cuttings will take root within a month.
Softwood Rooting
Rosemagazine.com says that softwood rooting is similar to hardwood rooting, but you should use a green side shoot and trim off all soft growth when preparing the cutting. You should also keep the cuttings indoors until winter is over to ensure they are not exposed to frost. The Ultimate Learning and Resource Center suggests planting your cuttings in plastic bags and transferring them to pots only after the roots have begun to grow.
Bud Grafting
Commercial roses are created by grafting buds onto existing roses. Love-of-Roses.com provides a method for doing this yourself. First, cut a green shoot off the rose bush as you would when softwood rooting roses. Soak the cutting in water overnight. Then cut the buds off the shoot with a sharp knife.
Make a T-shaped cut in the rose to which you are grafting. The top of the T and the base of the T should both be approximately 1 inch long. This cut creates flaps on the stem of the rose; when you peel them back you should see a slimy, green layer, If you have cut into the green layer, you have cut too deeply.
Pop the bud into the cut and bind it with grafting tape or twist ties. Monitor it to make sure roots don't form on the outside of the rose stem.
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