文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The joy of having "Knock Out" roses is that they are so easy to grow. The disease-, drought- and pest-resistant roses practically take care of themselves. They make attractive, low-maintenance hedges in the landscape. By rooting the cuttings from a "Knock Out" rose, you can have your own easy-to-grow roses.
Step 1
Take cuttings from the tip of the "Knock Out" rose, in the area where the hip is beginning to form. Cut a stem six to eight inches long, at a 45 degree angle, using a sharp knife. Do not allow cuttings to dry out.
Step 2
Select a location for the cuttings to root. A location on the east side of your house, which gets plenty of sunlight, but not direct light, is a good location for your "Knock Out" cuttings. Mix peat moss and composted pine bark, with the existing soil. Soil should be kept moist, but well drained.
Step 3
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the rose cutting, allowing them to remain on the upper half of the cutting. Dip half of the cutting into the rooting hormone. Take your pencil and make a small hole into the soil. Put that portion of the cutting, which has rooting hormone on it, into the hole.
Step 4
Place the cuttings eight inches apart. Firm the soil around the cuttings, by pressing the soil with your palms, to ensure good soil contact. Water the cuttings thoroughly. If necessary, protect the cuttings from the cold.
Step 5
Water the cuttings every other day, if it does not rain. In the spring the "Knock Out" roses will develop leaves and roots. Although they have roots, it is best to leave the young roses in place for one year or until they can be transplanted, without damage.
Step 6
Transplant the young roses to a location that has at least six hours of sun. Do this while the plants are dormant in late winter.
Step 1
Take cuttings from the tip of the "Knock Out" rose, in the area where the hip is beginning to form. Cut a stem six to eight inches long, at a 45 degree angle, using a sharp knife. Do not allow cuttings to dry out.
Step 2
Select a location for the cuttings to root. A location on the east side of your house, which gets plenty of sunlight, but not direct light, is a good location for your "Knock Out" cuttings. Mix peat moss and composted pine bark, with the existing soil. Soil should be kept moist, but well drained.
Step 3
Remove the leaves on the lower half of the rose cutting, allowing them to remain on the upper half of the cutting. Dip half of the cutting into the rooting hormone. Take your pencil and make a small hole into the soil. Put that portion of the cutting, which has rooting hormone on it, into the hole.
Step 4
Place the cuttings eight inches apart. Firm the soil around the cuttings, by pressing the soil with your palms, to ensure good soil contact. Water the cuttings thoroughly. If necessary, protect the cuttings from the cold.
Step 5
Water the cuttings every other day, if it does not rain. In the spring the "Knock Out" roses will develop leaves and roots. Although they have roots, it is best to leave the young roses in place for one year or until they can be transplanted, without damage.
Step 6
Transplant the young roses to a location that has at least six hours of sun. Do this while the plants are dormant in late winter.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Cyclamen is a beautiful plant, but not necessarily a cheap one. Planting one or two in the garden or home is one thing, but if you want to grow a whole swath of them, you’ll notice the price tag adding up quickly. A perfect way to get around this (and also just to get more hands-on in your garden) is growing cyclamen from seed. Planting cyclamen seeds is relatively easy, although it does take quite a while and doesn’t follow all the rules you may be used to with seed germination. Keep reading to learn more about cyclamen seed propagation and how to grow cyclamen from seed.
Can You Grow Cyclamen from Seed?
Can you grow cyclamen from seed? Yes, you can, but it takes some special treatment. For one thing, cyclamen seeds have a period of “ripeness,” basically the month of July, when it’s best to plant them. You can harvest them yourself or buy ripe seeds from the store. You can also buy dried seeds, but their germination rate won’t be as good. You can get around this somewhat by soaking your dried seeds in water with a tiny splash of dish soap for 24 hours before planting.
How to Grow Cyclamen from Seed
Planting cyclamen seeds requires 3- to 4-inch pots of well-draining compost mixed with grit. Plant about 20 seeds in each pot and cover them with a fine layer of more compost or grit. In nature, cyclamen seeds germinate in the fall and winter, which means they like it cold and dark. Put your pots in a cool place, ideally around 60 F. (15 C.), and cover them with something to completely block the light. Also, when planting cyclamen seeds, it may take as long as a couple months for germination to take place. Once the seeds sprout, remove the cover and place the pots under grow lights. Keep the plants cool – cyclamen does all of its growing in the winter. As they get bigger, thin and transplant them to bigger pots as needed.
When summer comes, they will go dormant, but if you can manage to keep them cool the whole time, they will grow through the summer and get big faster. That said, you probably won’t see any flowers in the first year.
Can You Grow Cyclamen from Seed?
Can you grow cyclamen from seed? Yes, you can, but it takes some special treatment. For one thing, cyclamen seeds have a period of “ripeness,” basically the month of July, when it’s best to plant them. You can harvest them yourself or buy ripe seeds from the store. You can also buy dried seeds, but their germination rate won’t be as good. You can get around this somewhat by soaking your dried seeds in water with a tiny splash of dish soap for 24 hours before planting.
How to Grow Cyclamen from Seed
Planting cyclamen seeds requires 3- to 4-inch pots of well-draining compost mixed with grit. Plant about 20 seeds in each pot and cover them with a fine layer of more compost or grit. In nature, cyclamen seeds germinate in the fall and winter, which means they like it cold and dark. Put your pots in a cool place, ideally around 60 F. (15 C.), and cover them with something to completely block the light. Also, when planting cyclamen seeds, it may take as long as a couple months for germination to take place. Once the seeds sprout, remove the cover and place the pots under grow lights. Keep the plants cool – cyclamen does all of its growing in the winter. As they get bigger, thin and transplant them to bigger pots as needed.
When summer comes, they will go dormant, but if you can manage to keep them cool the whole time, they will grow through the summer and get big faster. That said, you probably won’t see any flowers in the first year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Cyclamen are low, flowering plants that produce bright, beautiful blooms in shades of red, pink, purple, and white. While they do well in garden beds, plenty of gardeners choose to grow them in containers. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow cyclamen in pots.
Container Grown Cyclamen
While they prefer cool weather and actually bloom in the winter, cyclamen plants can’t tolerate temperatures below freezing. This means that if you live in a cold winter environment and want your plants to make it past their dormant summer period, your only options are growing them in a greenhouse or in pots. And unless you already have a greenhouse, pots are certainly the easier route. Growing cyclamen in containers is also a nice way to take advantage of their blooming period. While your container grown cyclamen are flowering, you can move them to a place of honor on the porch or in your home. Once the flowers have passed, you can move the plants out of the way.
Growing Cyclamen in Containers
Cyclamen come in a large number of varieties, and each has slightly different growing conditions. As a rule, though, growing cyclamen in containers is easy and usually successful. Potted cyclamen plants prefer well-draining growing medium, preferably with some compost mixed in. They are not heavy feeders and need very little fertilizer.
When planting a cyclamen tuber, choose a pot that leaves about an inch of space around the outside of the tuber. Set the tuber on top of the growing medium and cover it with half an inch of grit. Multiple tubers can be planted in the same pot as long as they have enough space. Potted cyclamen plants like cool Fahrenheit temperatures in the 60s (15 C.) during the day and the 50s (10 C.) at night. They grow best if placed in indirect bright sunlight.
Container Grown Cyclamen
While they prefer cool weather and actually bloom in the winter, cyclamen plants can’t tolerate temperatures below freezing. This means that if you live in a cold winter environment and want your plants to make it past their dormant summer period, your only options are growing them in a greenhouse or in pots. And unless you already have a greenhouse, pots are certainly the easier route. Growing cyclamen in containers is also a nice way to take advantage of their blooming period. While your container grown cyclamen are flowering, you can move them to a place of honor on the porch or in your home. Once the flowers have passed, you can move the plants out of the way.
Growing Cyclamen in Containers
Cyclamen come in a large number of varieties, and each has slightly different growing conditions. As a rule, though, growing cyclamen in containers is easy and usually successful. Potted cyclamen plants prefer well-draining growing medium, preferably with some compost mixed in. They are not heavy feeders and need very little fertilizer.
When planting a cyclamen tuber, choose a pot that leaves about an inch of space around the outside of the tuber. Set the tuber on top of the growing medium and cover it with half an inch of grit. Multiple tubers can be planted in the same pot as long as they have enough space. Potted cyclamen plants like cool Fahrenheit temperatures in the 60s (15 C.) during the day and the 50s (10 C.) at night. They grow best if placed in indirect bright sunlight.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses are among the more difficult flowering bushes to grow, primarily because they are vulnerable to a wide range of plant diseases. Brown spots on rose bush leaves are among the most common problems encountered by gardeners. Those who wish to garden organically don't have the wide arsenal of chemical sprays to turn to that solve all your rose problems in one spray but may have deleterious effects on the environment. Fortunately, organic methods of getting rid of brown spots on rose leaves are available.
Step 1
Prevent brown spots before they become a problem by practicing careful watering and pruning. Brown spots on roses are nearly always the result of a fungus; hence, good moisture control is essential to keeping them at bay. Do not water the leaves of a rose bush, only the root area. Avoid allowing plants to become crowded, and don't plant roses in a high-humidity area of your garden, such as an area that receives less sun or where mold problems have occurred before. Prune rose bushes well to promote healthy growth and clean your pruning shears and any other garden implements that touch roses well, to prevent spreading mold from one plant to another.
Step 2
Inspect plants to verify that the problem is, in fact, fungal. True brown spots always are; however, brown curled edges of leaves are a sign of scorching, and small yellowish spots can be a sign of insect infestation. Observe whether the spots are evenly distributed on the leaf or whether the browning is at the edges. If it is primarily at the edges, and the leaves are curled as well as discolored, excessive sun exposure is the culprit, and moving the plant to a shadier area after the last flowering is the best option. If the spots are yellowish, rather than brown, insects may be the cause. Look for bugs on the leaves to confirm. Organic insecticidal soap is the best bet for dealing with infestations.
Step 3
Spray rose leaves with organic fungicide if a fungal problem has been established. If using baking soda instead of purchased spray, mix one part baking soda with 15 parts water, and place in a clean laundry spray bottle. Re-apply fungal spray once a week and after any rainfall. If the infestation is small, remove diseased leaves and discard them in the garbage (do not discard them outdoors, since this can lead to the fungus spreading).
Step 1
Prevent brown spots before they become a problem by practicing careful watering and pruning. Brown spots on roses are nearly always the result of a fungus; hence, good moisture control is essential to keeping them at bay. Do not water the leaves of a rose bush, only the root area. Avoid allowing plants to become crowded, and don't plant roses in a high-humidity area of your garden, such as an area that receives less sun or where mold problems have occurred before. Prune rose bushes well to promote healthy growth and clean your pruning shears and any other garden implements that touch roses well, to prevent spreading mold from one plant to another.
Step 2
Inspect plants to verify that the problem is, in fact, fungal. True brown spots always are; however, brown curled edges of leaves are a sign of scorching, and small yellowish spots can be a sign of insect infestation. Observe whether the spots are evenly distributed on the leaf or whether the browning is at the edges. If it is primarily at the edges, and the leaves are curled as well as discolored, excessive sun exposure is the culprit, and moving the plant to a shadier area after the last flowering is the best option. If the spots are yellowish, rather than brown, insects may be the cause. Look for bugs on the leaves to confirm. Organic insecticidal soap is the best bet for dealing with infestations.
Step 3
Spray rose leaves with organic fungicide if a fungal problem has been established. If using baking soda instead of purchased spray, mix one part baking soda with 15 parts water, and place in a clean laundry spray bottle. Re-apply fungal spray once a week and after any rainfall. If the infestation is small, remove diseased leaves and discard them in the garbage (do not discard them outdoors, since this can lead to the fungus spreading).
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Losing its leaves in winter, the confederate rose is no rose but instead a member of the hibiscus family. Hibiscus mutabilis matures at up to 15 feet tall and 10 feet wide if never pruned or killed back by hard winter freezes. Appropriate to grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture Hardiness Zones 7 through 10, the winter cold in zones 7 and 8 often causes this tree to become a much smaller multi-stemmed shrub. The large green, maple-like leaves make an attractive foil to the white-to-pink to deep-lavender changing flowers that don the branch tips in late summer through autumn.
Step 1
Prune off any broken or dead branches on the confederate rose bush any time you encounter them. Make the pruning cut 1/4 to 1/2 inch above a lower branch junction, leaf or dormant bud if no leaves are present.
Step 2
Reduce the length of any branch or trunk in early spring to a height of 12 to 36 inches. Since larger diameter branches occur lower in the confederate rose, use loppers if they're wider than 3/4 inch in diameter. Time this reduction or rejuvenation pruning for just before the buds begin to swell and the leaves unfurl. In subtropical areas, this may mean pruning in late winter.
Step 3
Clip off any suckering, thin shoots from the main trunk or larger, healthy stems on the confederate rose any time of year, too. Make the cuts flush with their attachment to the main trunk or even with the soil line.
Step 4
Trim off old flowers once they fade if you do not want the seed capsules to form on the branches. Some find them attractively curious, as the seed capsules are fuzzy and split open to reveal a cottony core with seeds.
Step 1
Prune off any broken or dead branches on the confederate rose bush any time you encounter them. Make the pruning cut 1/4 to 1/2 inch above a lower branch junction, leaf or dormant bud if no leaves are present.
Step 2
Reduce the length of any branch or trunk in early spring to a height of 12 to 36 inches. Since larger diameter branches occur lower in the confederate rose, use loppers if they're wider than 3/4 inch in diameter. Time this reduction or rejuvenation pruning for just before the buds begin to swell and the leaves unfurl. In subtropical areas, this may mean pruning in late winter.
Step 3
Clip off any suckering, thin shoots from the main trunk or larger, healthy stems on the confederate rose any time of year, too. Make the cuts flush with their attachment to the main trunk or even with the soil line.
Step 4
Trim off old flowers once they fade if you do not want the seed capsules to form on the branches. Some find them attractively curious, as the seed capsules are fuzzy and split open to reveal a cottony core with seeds.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Tree roses, also called standard roses, are bush roses that have been budded onto a tall stem or trunk. Tree roses grow up to 4 feet tall.
Types
Tree roses can be grafted from almost any rose variety. The most common types are hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda. Hybrid tea roses bloom on single stems and come in a vast array of colors. Floribunda roses are short, hardy bush roses that bloom in clusters. Grandiflora roses are like hybrid tea roses in their plant height and popularity as cut flowers, but have several blooms per stem and bloom more frequently than hybrid tea varieties.
Features
Prune tree roses according to the type of rose that is grafted onto the stem. Varieties that bloom only once per season should be pruned after flowering. Varieties that bloom repeatedly should be pruned during their dormant season.
Geography
Roses grow best in full sun and well-drained acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. Amend soil with organic matter prior to planting to encourage drainage and help prevent iron deficiency. Mulch after planting to a depth of 2 to 4 inches.
Types
Tree roses can be grafted from almost any rose variety. The most common types are hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda. Hybrid tea roses bloom on single stems and come in a vast array of colors. Floribunda roses are short, hardy bush roses that bloom in clusters. Grandiflora roses are like hybrid tea roses in their plant height and popularity as cut flowers, but have several blooms per stem and bloom more frequently than hybrid tea varieties.
Features
Prune tree roses according to the type of rose that is grafted onto the stem. Varieties that bloom only once per season should be pruned after flowering. Varieties that bloom repeatedly should be pruned during their dormant season.
Geography
Roses grow best in full sun and well-drained acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. Amend soil with organic matter prior to planting to encourage drainage and help prevent iron deficiency. Mulch after planting to a depth of 2 to 4 inches.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The garden croton (Codiaeum variegatum) is a small shrub with big tropical-looking leaves. Crotons can grow outdoors in gardening zones 9 to 11, and some varieties also make great houseplants, though demanding ones. Their striking red, orange and yellow-striped leaves make the extra work worthwhile. Some varieties even have purple or white stripes and patches on the dark green leaves. But sometimes the bright colors on a croton fade, leaving them with ordinary-looking green leaves. It can be disappointing to notice a croton losing color because those vibrant leaves are this plant’s best feature.
Why is My Croton Losing its Color?
Color loss of croton is common in winter and in low light conditions. Croton plants are native to the tropics, growing wild in Indonesia and Malaysia, and they do best in full sun or bright indoor light. Most often, croton plants with faded leaves are simply not receiving enough light. Conversely, some colors may fade if crotons are exposed to excessive direct light. Each variety has its own light preferences, so check whether the variety you have does best in full sun or partial sun.
What to Do When Croton Leaves are Fading
If a croton’s colors fade in low light levels, you need to increase the amount of light it is receiving. Bring the croton outdoors during the warm part of the year to give it more light. Be sure to harden off the plant, bringing it outdoors for a few hours at a time and placing it in a shady spot at first, to allow the plant to adjust to the brighter light, wind, and less stable temperatures of the outdoors. Crotons are not cold hardy and shouldn’t be exposed to temperatures below 30 degrees F. (-1 degree C.). Bring your croton back indoors before the first frost in fall. If a croton develops fading leaves when it is exposed to excessively bright light, try moving it into the shade or farther away from the window. To keep your croton healthy during the winter when it has to be indoors, place it near the sunniest window in the house, within 3 to 5 feet (.91 to 1.52 m.) of the glass, or provide a grow light. Legginess is another sign that the plant is not getting enough light. To ward off other problems that could cause weak coloration in crotons, provide a balanced slow-release fertilizer two to three times a year, but avoid over fertilizing, especially during the winter when growth is slower. Keep soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogged or poorly drained soil, which may cause leaves to turn yellow. Crotons should be misted to keep them healthy indoors, since they prefer more humidity than most houses provide.
Why is My Croton Losing its Color?
Color loss of croton is common in winter and in low light conditions. Croton plants are native to the tropics, growing wild in Indonesia and Malaysia, and they do best in full sun or bright indoor light. Most often, croton plants with faded leaves are simply not receiving enough light. Conversely, some colors may fade if crotons are exposed to excessive direct light. Each variety has its own light preferences, so check whether the variety you have does best in full sun or partial sun.
What to Do When Croton Leaves are Fading
If a croton’s colors fade in low light levels, you need to increase the amount of light it is receiving. Bring the croton outdoors during the warm part of the year to give it more light. Be sure to harden off the plant, bringing it outdoors for a few hours at a time and placing it in a shady spot at first, to allow the plant to adjust to the brighter light, wind, and less stable temperatures of the outdoors. Crotons are not cold hardy and shouldn’t be exposed to temperatures below 30 degrees F. (-1 degree C.). Bring your croton back indoors before the first frost in fall. If a croton develops fading leaves when it is exposed to excessively bright light, try moving it into the shade or farther away from the window. To keep your croton healthy during the winter when it has to be indoors, place it near the sunniest window in the house, within 3 to 5 feet (.91 to 1.52 m.) of the glass, or provide a grow light. Legginess is another sign that the plant is not getting enough light. To ward off other problems that could cause weak coloration in crotons, provide a balanced slow-release fertilizer two to three times a year, but avoid over fertilizing, especially during the winter when growth is slower. Keep soil evenly moist, but avoid waterlogged or poorly drained soil, which may cause leaves to turn yellow. Crotons should be misted to keep them healthy indoors, since they prefer more humidity than most houses provide.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
A Lady Banks rose (Rosa banksia) produces cascades of yellow or white flower clusters. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10. This wild rose looks best when allowed to grow in its natural form, but infrequent pruning can help keep it in bounds while still ensuring ample flowering.
Ready Your Shears
Two types of shears are needed to prune a Lady Banks rose. Basic loppers handle most pruning needs, but you will need smaller hand pruners or bypass shears for shaping the bush. Wipe the shear blades with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect them before you prune. If you cut out diseased wood or are moving between plants, wipe the shears again. Some varieties of Lady Banks roses have thorny stems, so wear leather gardening gloves and long sleeves if you are trimming a thorned variety.
Timing Is Everything
Lady Banks roses flower on 2- or 3-year-old canes, so they don't require annual pruning except to remove damaged wood. Pruning too frequently will remove the flowering canes so there are no blooms and only foliage. These roses only flower once a year in late spring or early summer. Prune Lady Banks immediately after this annual flowering, before the plant begins to set new buds for the following year.
Thinning It Out
Thinning allows for air circulation within the rose bush, which improves flowering and minimizes disease concerns. Yellow and brown canes are completely dead, so remove these at ground level using the loppers. You can also remove the tallest and thickest canes at ground level to open up the center of the plant for air circulation. Pruning these out also lets in more light, so the smaller canes can leaf out and set flower buds. Also, remove any damaged canes, either cutting them off at ground level or cutting them back to the nearest outward facing bud or leaf on healthy wood.
Shaping Up
Light shaping every two years helps keep the sprawling, climbing canes of the Lady Banks rose under control, but you don't want to over prune and lose the plant's natural form. Begin by cutting back any overgrown canes, especially those that extend over walkways, or are wrapping around structures or tree branches. Cut these back to a bud or leaf at the desired cane length using the bypass shears. You can also prune back dull green canes to manage their height, but don't prune back the bright green canes because these are your future flowering stems. After pruning, remove the clippings from the bed, and compost or dispose of them.
Ready Your Shears
Two types of shears are needed to prune a Lady Banks rose. Basic loppers handle most pruning needs, but you will need smaller hand pruners or bypass shears for shaping the bush. Wipe the shear blades with a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect them before you prune. If you cut out diseased wood or are moving between plants, wipe the shears again. Some varieties of Lady Banks roses have thorny stems, so wear leather gardening gloves and long sleeves if you are trimming a thorned variety.
Timing Is Everything
Lady Banks roses flower on 2- or 3-year-old canes, so they don't require annual pruning except to remove damaged wood. Pruning too frequently will remove the flowering canes so there are no blooms and only foliage. These roses only flower once a year in late spring or early summer. Prune Lady Banks immediately after this annual flowering, before the plant begins to set new buds for the following year.
Thinning It Out
Thinning allows for air circulation within the rose bush, which improves flowering and minimizes disease concerns. Yellow and brown canes are completely dead, so remove these at ground level using the loppers. You can also remove the tallest and thickest canes at ground level to open up the center of the plant for air circulation. Pruning these out also lets in more light, so the smaller canes can leaf out and set flower buds. Also, remove any damaged canes, either cutting them off at ground level or cutting them back to the nearest outward facing bud or leaf on healthy wood.
Shaping Up
Light shaping every two years helps keep the sprawling, climbing canes of the Lady Banks rose under control, but you don't want to over prune and lose the plant's natural form. Begin by cutting back any overgrown canes, especially those that extend over walkways, or are wrapping around structures or tree branches. Cut these back to a bud or leaf at the desired cane length using the bypass shears. You can also prune back dull green canes to manage their height, but don't prune back the bright green canes because these are your future flowering stems. After pruning, remove the clippings from the bed, and compost or dispose of them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Coffee plants produce not only the all important coffee bean, but they make terrific houseplants too. In their native tropical habitat, coffee plants grow up to 15 feet or more, so pruning a coffee plant is integral when growing them indoors.
Information on Coffee Plants
Before we explore how to prune a coffee plant, a little background on Coffea arabica is in order. A member of the Ruiaceae family, one of 90 in the genus Coffea, coffee plant is an evergreen, perennial shrub with dark green, glossy leaves decorated with ruffled edges and pleasantly aromatic white blossoms. Grow this specimen as an attractive houseplant, or if you aren’t shy on patience, for its fruit, which will take about four years to produce anything approximating a decent cup of coffee.
Hailing from Southern Asia and tropical regions of Africa, temperatures should be kept at 70 F. (21 C.) or higher during daylight hours and in the mid to lower 60’s (15-20 C.) at night with a good dose of humidity. Make sure the plant has well-draining soil, filtered sun and moderate (never soggy) irrigation. Although coffee plants will produce fruit without fertilization, for the most optimal fruiting and quality, they should be fed every two weeks from March to October and thereafter each month. A soluble, all purpose type of fertilizer is recommended for use. Coffee plants can be obtained through most online nurseries. Purchase the cultivar Coffea arabica ‘Nana’ if you desire a plant with more compact growth, thus reducing the necessity and frequency of cutting back coffee plant.
How to Prune a Coffee Plant
Due to their ability to attain a height of between 10 and 15 feet, not manageable in most homes, pruning of coffee houseplants is a necessity, not an option. Never fear; pruning coffee plants indoors is a simple process. When cutting back coffee plant, remember this plant is very forgiving and pruning back harshly won’t harm the plant at all. When pruning a coffee plant on a commercial plantation, trees are kept down to an easy-to-harvest 6 feet. This may be too large for your home and may necessitate more severe pruning of coffee plants indoors. Pruning a coffee plant may only require minimal pinching of new growth or it may involve cutting the plant way back. Pinching back the plant will not only restrain the tree’s height, but will encourage a bushier appearance. Coffee plant should be pruned back during the spring months to maintain a fuller, bushy appearance and generally shape the plant. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, ¼-inch above where the leaf attaches to the stem (axil), paying attention to top growth to retard size. Remove any suckers at this time as well as any dead or dying limbs while leaving the largest branches.
Cuttings taken from the plant during pruning are difficult to propagate; however, if you want to make the attempt, use the young stems prior to hardening. Coffee plants make an easy, attractive plant that with a minimum of care you will be enjoying for many years.
Information on Coffee Plants
Before we explore how to prune a coffee plant, a little background on Coffea arabica is in order. A member of the Ruiaceae family, one of 90 in the genus Coffea, coffee plant is an evergreen, perennial shrub with dark green, glossy leaves decorated with ruffled edges and pleasantly aromatic white blossoms. Grow this specimen as an attractive houseplant, or if you aren’t shy on patience, for its fruit, which will take about four years to produce anything approximating a decent cup of coffee.
Hailing from Southern Asia and tropical regions of Africa, temperatures should be kept at 70 F. (21 C.) or higher during daylight hours and in the mid to lower 60’s (15-20 C.) at night with a good dose of humidity. Make sure the plant has well-draining soil, filtered sun and moderate (never soggy) irrigation. Although coffee plants will produce fruit without fertilization, for the most optimal fruiting and quality, they should be fed every two weeks from March to October and thereafter each month. A soluble, all purpose type of fertilizer is recommended for use. Coffee plants can be obtained through most online nurseries. Purchase the cultivar Coffea arabica ‘Nana’ if you desire a plant with more compact growth, thus reducing the necessity and frequency of cutting back coffee plant.
How to Prune a Coffee Plant
Due to their ability to attain a height of between 10 and 15 feet, not manageable in most homes, pruning of coffee houseplants is a necessity, not an option. Never fear; pruning coffee plants indoors is a simple process. When cutting back coffee plant, remember this plant is very forgiving and pruning back harshly won’t harm the plant at all. When pruning a coffee plant on a commercial plantation, trees are kept down to an easy-to-harvest 6 feet. This may be too large for your home and may necessitate more severe pruning of coffee plants indoors. Pruning a coffee plant may only require minimal pinching of new growth or it may involve cutting the plant way back. Pinching back the plant will not only restrain the tree’s height, but will encourage a bushier appearance. Coffee plant should be pruned back during the spring months to maintain a fuller, bushy appearance and generally shape the plant. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, ¼-inch above where the leaf attaches to the stem (axil), paying attention to top growth to retard size. Remove any suckers at this time as well as any dead or dying limbs while leaving the largest branches.
Cuttings taken from the plant during pruning are difficult to propagate; however, if you want to make the attempt, use the young stems prior to hardening. Coffee plants make an easy, attractive plant that with a minimum of care you will be enjoying for many years.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Chinese evergreen plants (Aglaonemas spp.) are leafy plants popular in homes and offices. They thrive in low light and a mild, protected environment. They are compact plants and grow big leaves that are a mix of green and cream color. Pruning Chinese evergreen plant foliage is hardly ever required. However, there are times that trimming Chinese evergreens is appropriate. Keep reading for more information on when and how to cut back a Chinese evergreen.
Chinese Evergreen Pruning
Many houseplants require regular or even constant pruning and pinching to keep them looking good. One of the advantages of Chinese evergreen is that they are very low maintenance. As long as you keep these plants in low light areas with temperatures of 65 to 75 F. (18-23 C.), they will likely thrive.
Because of the dense leafing of the plant, trimming Chinese evergreens is not a must. In fact, since new growth appears from the plant crown, pruning Chinese evergreen plant leaves can kill the entire plant. You may be tempted to pick up the pruners if the plant, as it matures, begins to look leggy. Experts suggest that you resist. Instead, consider planting pothos or another species of low-light plant, to fill in the bare spots.
How to Cut Back a Chinese Evergreen
Occasions for pruning Chinese evergreen plant are few and far between, but they do arise. Prune off any dead leaves in order to keep the houseplant looking its best. Trim them off as low as you can by reaching deep into the center of the plant. Another occasion for trimming Chinese evergreens comes in the spring, if the plant produces flowers. Blooms generally appear in the spring – watch for a spathe and spadix in the middle of the leaves.
You are probably helping the plant by removing these flowers since it lets the Chinese evergreen use that energy for foliage growth. Since the flowers are not extremely attractive, you will not suffer from their loss. If you feel badly pruning Chinese evergreen plant flowers off the plant, do it anyway. Remember that removing the blossoms is good for the longevity of the plant.
Chinese Evergreen Pruning
Many houseplants require regular or even constant pruning and pinching to keep them looking good. One of the advantages of Chinese evergreen is that they are very low maintenance. As long as you keep these plants in low light areas with temperatures of 65 to 75 F. (18-23 C.), they will likely thrive.
Because of the dense leafing of the plant, trimming Chinese evergreens is not a must. In fact, since new growth appears from the plant crown, pruning Chinese evergreen plant leaves can kill the entire plant. You may be tempted to pick up the pruners if the plant, as it matures, begins to look leggy. Experts suggest that you resist. Instead, consider planting pothos or another species of low-light plant, to fill in the bare spots.
How to Cut Back a Chinese Evergreen
Occasions for pruning Chinese evergreen plant are few and far between, but they do arise. Prune off any dead leaves in order to keep the houseplant looking its best. Trim them off as low as you can by reaching deep into the center of the plant. Another occasion for trimming Chinese evergreens comes in the spring, if the plant produces flowers. Blooms generally appear in the spring – watch for a spathe and spadix in the middle of the leaves.
You are probably helping the plant by removing these flowers since it lets the Chinese evergreen use that energy for foliage growth. Since the flowers are not extremely attractive, you will not suffer from their loss. If you feel badly pruning Chinese evergreen plant flowers off the plant, do it anyway. Remember that removing the blossoms is good for the longevity of the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
I love a plant with a descriptive and evocative name. Cardboard palm plant (Zamia furfuracea) is one of those ancient plants with a lot of character that can grow inside or outside depending upon your gardening zone. What is a Zamia cardboard palm? In fact, it isn’t a palm at all but a cycad — like the sago palm plant. Knowing how to grow Zamia palms starts with knowing your USDA planting zone. This little guy is not winter hardy in the majority of North American regions, but it makes an excellent container or houseplant anywhere. Grow it outdoors in USDA zones 9 to 11 year round.
What is a Zamia Cardboard Palm?
We already ascertained that the plant is not a palm. Cycads, which have been around since the dinosaurs, form cones at the center of the plant. The cardboard palm plant is native to Mexico and has tropical tendencies in its preferred temperature and light levels. Zamia cardboard palm does have pinnate leaves like a palm tree, but they are rounded with a thick tuberous stem. The evergreen leaflets grow in opposing pairs of up to 12 per stem. It is a low growing plant that may spread 3 to 4 feet and an underground trunk. The trunk stores moisture in times of drought, which makes Zamia ideal for xeriscape gardens. Cardboard palm care requires enough moisture to keep the trunk fat and healthy. Never let it dry to the point that the trunk and stem are wrinkled or dry.
How to Grow Zamia Palms
Propagation of cardboard palm plants is inconsistent through seed. The plants come in male and female sexes. It may be difficult to tell which you have at first, but the male produces a large cone that protrudes from the core of the plant, while the female cone is smaller and flatter. Females may produce numerous bright red seeds when they are pollinated. They should be germinated in moist sand in flats indoors. Temperature range for germination is at least 65 F. (18 C.), but growing cardboard palms from seed is finicky business. Seeds should be sown immediately, as they are not viable for long. Once the seedling has emerged, it will look nothing like your adult plant. Young cardboard palm care includes moderate light until the second set of true leaves appears. Keep the sand moderately moist and transplant when the root base is robust.
Cardboard Palm Care
Maintenance is minimal when growing cardboard palms. Zamia thrives in moderate to bright light. It has a slow growth habit and does well in good potting soil as long as the container has excellent drainage. The plant is prone to some pests, such as spider mites, but its biggest problem is rot. Water deeply weekly in summer but reduce moisture in winter and fall by half. The thick underground trunk needs to be filled with stored water but over anxious growers may tend to overwater it and cause stem or crown rot. Once the crown is overtaken by fungal spores, it is nearly impossible to save. Prune off dead leaves as they occur and fertilize with a slow release palm food or a diluted household plant food once monthly during the growing season.
What is a Zamia Cardboard Palm?
We already ascertained that the plant is not a palm. Cycads, which have been around since the dinosaurs, form cones at the center of the plant. The cardboard palm plant is native to Mexico and has tropical tendencies in its preferred temperature and light levels. Zamia cardboard palm does have pinnate leaves like a palm tree, but they are rounded with a thick tuberous stem. The evergreen leaflets grow in opposing pairs of up to 12 per stem. It is a low growing plant that may spread 3 to 4 feet and an underground trunk. The trunk stores moisture in times of drought, which makes Zamia ideal for xeriscape gardens. Cardboard palm care requires enough moisture to keep the trunk fat and healthy. Never let it dry to the point that the trunk and stem are wrinkled or dry.
How to Grow Zamia Palms
Propagation of cardboard palm plants is inconsistent through seed. The plants come in male and female sexes. It may be difficult to tell which you have at first, but the male produces a large cone that protrudes from the core of the plant, while the female cone is smaller and flatter. Females may produce numerous bright red seeds when they are pollinated. They should be germinated in moist sand in flats indoors. Temperature range for germination is at least 65 F. (18 C.), but growing cardboard palms from seed is finicky business. Seeds should be sown immediately, as they are not viable for long. Once the seedling has emerged, it will look nothing like your adult plant. Young cardboard palm care includes moderate light until the second set of true leaves appears. Keep the sand moderately moist and transplant when the root base is robust.
Cardboard Palm Care
Maintenance is minimal when growing cardboard palms. Zamia thrives in moderate to bright light. It has a slow growth habit and does well in good potting soil as long as the container has excellent drainage. The plant is prone to some pests, such as spider mites, but its biggest problem is rot. Water deeply weekly in summer but reduce moisture in winter and fall by half. The thick underground trunk needs to be filled with stored water but over anxious growers may tend to overwater it and cause stem or crown rot. Once the crown is overtaken by fungal spores, it is nearly impossible to save. Prune off dead leaves as they occur and fertilize with a slow release palm food or a diluted household plant food once monthly during the growing season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The flaming sword houseplant, Vriesea splendens, is one of the most common bromeliads used for indoor decoration and is one of the showiest. You may already have one in your houseplant collection and wonder how to grow flaming sword plants. Vriesea flaming sword info says there are 250 varieties of Vriesea, providing a range of color in both foliage and colorful bracts. The flaming sword houseplant is commonly named for its red bracts that appear when the plant is three to five years old. It is an epiphyte in its native habitat.
How to Grow Flaming Sword Plants
The flaming sword houseplant grows best in a one to one mix of regular potting soil and orchid mix. Special soil for bromeliads is sometimes available at the local garden center. Vriesea flaming sword info indicates a special display for the plant can eliminate the need for growing in soil. Attach the plant to a slab or large piece of bark reminiscent of its native habitat to provide an interesting display.
Care of Vriesea Plants
Locate the flaming sword houseplant in bright, indirect light indoors. Allow some direct morning or evening sun in winter, if possible. Care of Vriesea plants includes keeping them in temperatures above 60 F. (16 C.), but no warmer than 80 F (27 C). As with other bromeliads, the flaming sword houseplant has a cup or tank in the middle of the plant. Keep this cup filled with water. Vriesea flaming sword info says watering for this plant should be minimal. Soil should be no more than lightly moist and never allowed to completely dry out. The top half of the plant can be allowed to dry out between waterings. This bromeliad does, however, like high humidity. Mist the plant frequently or place it on a pebble tray indoors or near the company of other houseplants that transpire. Fifty percent humidity is necessary for optimum performance of Vriesea flaming sword.
More Vriesea Flaming Sword Info
The flaming sword houseplant blooms just once and begins to decline, but it provides more plants before passing away, as small offsets called pups can be removed from the mother plant. Sever pups when they are one-half to two-thirds the size of the mother plant. Thus, the process begins again. In three to five years you can expect blooming bracts on the babies and another round of pups to propagate.
How to Grow Flaming Sword Plants
The flaming sword houseplant grows best in a one to one mix of regular potting soil and orchid mix. Special soil for bromeliads is sometimes available at the local garden center. Vriesea flaming sword info indicates a special display for the plant can eliminate the need for growing in soil. Attach the plant to a slab or large piece of bark reminiscent of its native habitat to provide an interesting display.
Care of Vriesea Plants
Locate the flaming sword houseplant in bright, indirect light indoors. Allow some direct morning or evening sun in winter, if possible. Care of Vriesea plants includes keeping them in temperatures above 60 F. (16 C.), but no warmer than 80 F (27 C). As with other bromeliads, the flaming sword houseplant has a cup or tank in the middle of the plant. Keep this cup filled with water. Vriesea flaming sword info says watering for this plant should be minimal. Soil should be no more than lightly moist and never allowed to completely dry out. The top half of the plant can be allowed to dry out between waterings. This bromeliad does, however, like high humidity. Mist the plant frequently or place it on a pebble tray indoors or near the company of other houseplants that transpire. Fifty percent humidity is necessary for optimum performance of Vriesea flaming sword.
More Vriesea Flaming Sword Info
The flaming sword houseplant blooms just once and begins to decline, but it provides more plants before passing away, as small offsets called pups can be removed from the mother plant. Sever pups when they are one-half to two-thirds the size of the mother plant. Thus, the process begins again. In three to five years you can expect blooming bracts on the babies and another round of pups to propagate.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Cloning roses is the process used to grow a new rose from the cutting of an old one. Typically a cutting or piece is taken from a fading rose bush or from a bouquet containing a variety that appeals to you, and you'd grow the same variety from that cutting. Cloning a rose is a long process that requires patience and attention to the cutting. Often clones begin to show progress in as little as a week, but some rose varieties can take much longer.
Step 1
Remove your cutting from the plant below the point where the stem and main cane join (heel). An ideal cutting is 5 inches long with five groups of leaves (leaflets) and a spent (past bloom) flower.
Step 2
Wrap the cutting with moist paper towel and place it in a sealed bag.
Step 3
Add 1/8 teaspoon of Miracle-Gro and of baking soda (prevents fungus) and a few drops of dish soap into a 16-ounce spray bottle full of water and shake.
Step 4
Fold the top of a zipper bag down about 2 inches and pour three cups of potting mix in.
Step 5
Pour slightly less than a cup of water into the bagged soil and knead into the soil.
Step 6
Press the bagged soil down and poke a hole into the center of the soil with your finger.
Step 7
Remove the cutting from the paper towel and cut the stem about ½ inch above the leaflets at the top of the cutting.
Step 8
Remove bottom leaves, leaving one large or two regular sized groups of leaves on the top of the stem.
Step 9
Cut across the heel of the stem, or below the lowest point where the leaf stem joins the cane (eye bud).
Step 10
Dip the cutting into liquid rooting compound and place it slanted into the hole you made, pressing the soil firmly around it.
Step 11
Unfold the bag and spray inside with the spray bottle solution.
Step 12
Close the zipper from both sides, leaving an inch open. Blow into the bag so that it expands before closing it completely.
Step 13
Place the bag in an area with bright, indirect sunlight and watch for new growth.
Step 14
Remove dead leaves, bud, and fungus if necessary. If the soil cracks around the stem move it gently into the crack to firm it up.
Step 15
Spray inside the bag and re-inflate it each time you open it.
Step 16
Begin opening the bag (one inch for three hours the first day) when you see two or three new leaflets, growth at the top of the soil but no roots, or if you see new roots inside the bottom of the bag for several weeks. If it droops or the leaflets turn brown, blow up the bag and close it. Try again in a few days.
Step 17
Close the bag after three hours if the cutting is unaffected. On the following day double the size of the opening and the length of time you open it (2 inches for 6 hours).
Step 18
Continue opening the bag a little more each day for a longer period of time until the bag is fully open.
Step 19
Fold down the top of the bag once the bag has remained open for a full day with no ill effects to the rose, and leave it open for four days.
Step 20
Spray once each day after opening. You'll begin to see roots forming at the bottom of the bag indicating the rose is ready to pot after about 10 to 30 days.
Step 1
Remove your cutting from the plant below the point where the stem and main cane join (heel). An ideal cutting is 5 inches long with five groups of leaves (leaflets) and a spent (past bloom) flower.
Step 2
Wrap the cutting with moist paper towel and place it in a sealed bag.
Step 3
Add 1/8 teaspoon of Miracle-Gro and of baking soda (prevents fungus) and a few drops of dish soap into a 16-ounce spray bottle full of water and shake.
Step 4
Fold the top of a zipper bag down about 2 inches and pour three cups of potting mix in.
Step 5
Pour slightly less than a cup of water into the bagged soil and knead into the soil.
Step 6
Press the bagged soil down and poke a hole into the center of the soil with your finger.
Step 7
Remove the cutting from the paper towel and cut the stem about ½ inch above the leaflets at the top of the cutting.
Step 8
Remove bottom leaves, leaving one large or two regular sized groups of leaves on the top of the stem.
Step 9
Cut across the heel of the stem, or below the lowest point where the leaf stem joins the cane (eye bud).
Step 10
Dip the cutting into liquid rooting compound and place it slanted into the hole you made, pressing the soil firmly around it.
Step 11
Unfold the bag and spray inside with the spray bottle solution.
Step 12
Close the zipper from both sides, leaving an inch open. Blow into the bag so that it expands before closing it completely.
Step 13
Place the bag in an area with bright, indirect sunlight and watch for new growth.
Step 14
Remove dead leaves, bud, and fungus if necessary. If the soil cracks around the stem move it gently into the crack to firm it up.
Step 15
Spray inside the bag and re-inflate it each time you open it.
Step 16
Begin opening the bag (one inch for three hours the first day) when you see two or three new leaflets, growth at the top of the soil but no roots, or if you see new roots inside the bottom of the bag for several weeks. If it droops or the leaflets turn brown, blow up the bag and close it. Try again in a few days.
Step 17
Close the bag after three hours if the cutting is unaffected. On the following day double the size of the opening and the length of time you open it (2 inches for 6 hours).
Step 18
Continue opening the bag a little more each day for a longer period of time until the bag is fully open.
Step 19
Fold down the top of the bag once the bag has remained open for a full day with no ill effects to the rose, and leave it open for four days.
Step 20
Spray once each day after opening. You'll begin to see roots forming at the bottom of the bag indicating the rose is ready to pot after about 10 to 30 days.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Scientifically known as the Rosa rugosa, the beach rose is a sturdy, easy-to-grow shrub that enjoyed by landscapers and home gardeners alike. Not only are beach roses cold-tolerant and disease resistant, they will also withstand conditions that would send most rose bushes into a full wilt. They thrive in poor soil, salt air, windy environments and full sun. However, while they don't require the attention other rose bushes demand, they do need periodic trimming to look their best. Pruning beach roses eliminates old, unattractive or damaged wood, while promoting the growth of new foliage and flowers.
Step 1
Examine the rose bushes prior to the spring growth spurt. Not only will the beach rose recover more quickly from pruning during the dormant period, it will make spotting unwanted canes easier as there is bound to be little, if any, foliage on the branches.
Step 2
Remove any branches that have been killed by frost. These will be a dull brown color and will have no buds or new growth on them. Hold the pruning shears at a 45-degree angle and cut the branch, removing as much of the dead plant tissue as possible. Cut the branch back to the base of the shrub, if necessary. If you're not sure where the dead wood ends and the healthy growth begins, simply look at the center of a cut branch. Living canes are white in the center, while dead canes are brown.
Step 3
Trim any damaged canes, cutting them back to the place where they connect with larger branches. Additionally, remove any branches that are growing inward, toward the heart of the plant, rather than out toward the open air. This thins the shrub and allows air to circulate more freely around the branches, which helps to discourage the development of diseases.
Step 4
Eliminate crossed branches by cutting away the smaller of the two. If left unattended, the canes will rub against each other as they grow, damaging the protective bark and leaving the shrub vulnerable to invasion by pests.
Step 5
Examine the base of the shrub. Locate the bud where the branches emerge from the roots and trim away any growth found below this nodule. These offshoots are known as suckers and their development drains the energy resources of the plant.
Step 6
Sculpt and shape the shrub, if desired. Cut the canes back, removing up to one-third of each branch to control height. Alternatively, you can remove whole canes, cutting them completely back to the base of the shrub, to control the width. Take care not to remove more than 30 percent of the total plant material.
Step 1
Examine the rose bushes prior to the spring growth spurt. Not only will the beach rose recover more quickly from pruning during the dormant period, it will make spotting unwanted canes easier as there is bound to be little, if any, foliage on the branches.
Step 2
Remove any branches that have been killed by frost. These will be a dull brown color and will have no buds or new growth on them. Hold the pruning shears at a 45-degree angle and cut the branch, removing as much of the dead plant tissue as possible. Cut the branch back to the base of the shrub, if necessary. If you're not sure where the dead wood ends and the healthy growth begins, simply look at the center of a cut branch. Living canes are white in the center, while dead canes are brown.
Step 3
Trim any damaged canes, cutting them back to the place where they connect with larger branches. Additionally, remove any branches that are growing inward, toward the heart of the plant, rather than out toward the open air. This thins the shrub and allows air to circulate more freely around the branches, which helps to discourage the development of diseases.
Step 4
Eliminate crossed branches by cutting away the smaller of the two. If left unattended, the canes will rub against each other as they grow, damaging the protective bark and leaving the shrub vulnerable to invasion by pests.
Step 5
Examine the base of the shrub. Locate the bud where the branches emerge from the roots and trim away any growth found below this nodule. These offshoots are known as suckers and their development drains the energy resources of the plant.
Step 6
Sculpt and shape the shrub, if desired. Cut the canes back, removing up to one-third of each branch to control height. Alternatively, you can remove whole canes, cutting them completely back to the base of the shrub, to control the width. Take care not to remove more than 30 percent of the total plant material.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Eggshells are calcium-rich organic material that decompose well when mixed into or layered on top of soil. Roses require heavy amounts of organic material to grow to their ultimate potential. Eggshells can be tilled directly into soil or added to compost or manure. Eggshells add nutrients, can help to stabilize the pH level and can act as a natural deterrent against pests.
Calcium
Plants, including roses, require large amounts of calcium in order to thrive. In terms of quantity needed, calcium ranks as a secondary nutrient behind nitrogen and potassium in plant nutrient needs. In plants, calcium helps to maintain the chemical balance of soil, increases metabolic rate and helps to neutralize cell acid. Egg shells are composed of about 95 percent calcium and therefore can provide roses with their full calcium requirement. There are no studies indicating harm caused by calcium overdose on plants, so tilling eggshells both into the soil and layering on top of the soil can be done simultaneously.
Lime
Aside from calcium, eggshells contain lime and protein. Lime is added to soil when it is too acidic (low pH level) to neutralize the acidity and raise the pH level. Roses grow best at a moderate pH level of about 6.5. Lime adds magnesium to the soil and helps increase aeration and drainage. Most commercial fertilizers contain lime.
Compost
Eggshells can be added to home compost piles to add calcium and lime to the mix. Eggshells act as an alkalizer when added to compost and do not change the nitrogen-to-carbon ratio. Home compost can be tilled into rose soil or crushed eggshells can be mixed into a commercial fertilizer or manure. Roses greatly benefit from large amounts of organic matter, the best ratio is 50 percent organic material to 50 percent soil.
Mulch
Crushed eggshells can also be scattered on top of the planted rose bed as a mulch. The nutrients seep into the soil with every rain or watering. To hide the eggshells, a second layer of bark or moss mulch can be layered on top. Eggshells placed on top and exposed to the air have a double use; aside from adding nutrients to the soil they act as a deterrent to slugs and cats. The eggshells lacerate a slug's underside, so slugs that crawl across broken eggshells turn back.
Calcium
Plants, including roses, require large amounts of calcium in order to thrive. In terms of quantity needed, calcium ranks as a secondary nutrient behind nitrogen and potassium in plant nutrient needs. In plants, calcium helps to maintain the chemical balance of soil, increases metabolic rate and helps to neutralize cell acid. Egg shells are composed of about 95 percent calcium and therefore can provide roses with their full calcium requirement. There are no studies indicating harm caused by calcium overdose on plants, so tilling eggshells both into the soil and layering on top of the soil can be done simultaneously.
Lime
Aside from calcium, eggshells contain lime and protein. Lime is added to soil when it is too acidic (low pH level) to neutralize the acidity and raise the pH level. Roses grow best at a moderate pH level of about 6.5. Lime adds magnesium to the soil and helps increase aeration and drainage. Most commercial fertilizers contain lime.
Compost
Eggshells can be added to home compost piles to add calcium and lime to the mix. Eggshells act as an alkalizer when added to compost and do not change the nitrogen-to-carbon ratio. Home compost can be tilled into rose soil or crushed eggshells can be mixed into a commercial fertilizer or manure. Roses greatly benefit from large amounts of organic matter, the best ratio is 50 percent organic material to 50 percent soil.
Mulch
Crushed eggshells can also be scattered on top of the planted rose bed as a mulch. The nutrients seep into the soil with every rain or watering. To hide the eggshells, a second layer of bark or moss mulch can be layered on top. Eggshells placed on top and exposed to the air have a double use; aside from adding nutrients to the soil they act as a deterrent to slugs and cats. The eggshells lacerate a slug's underside, so slugs that crawl across broken eggshells turn back.
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