文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Above: Yellow Columbine flowering in the Rocky Mountains in early July.
Yellow Columbine is the most common of the three species that grow in the Rocky Mountains, the other two being Colorado Blue Columbine - Aquilegia coerulea and Red Western Columbine - Aquilegia elegantula.
The best time to see this flower in bloom is from mid-June to mid July. Yellow Columbine grows in moist, acidic habitats on rocky ledges, mountain meadows and subalpine slopes.
Various parts of the plant have been used to make medicines: the seeds can be crushed and added to hot water to cure headaches, and tea made from the dried roots and leaves, has been used to treat stomach and bowel complaints.
Aquilegia flavescens is a protected plant and so the flowers should never be picked, or the plants dug up and removed. It is easy to cultivate from seed for use in gardens and seeds can be purchased from reputable garden centres.
Yellow Columbine is the most common of the three species that grow in the Rocky Mountains, the other two being Colorado Blue Columbine - Aquilegia coerulea and Red Western Columbine - Aquilegia elegantula.
The best time to see this flower in bloom is from mid-June to mid July. Yellow Columbine grows in moist, acidic habitats on rocky ledges, mountain meadows and subalpine slopes.
Various parts of the plant have been used to make medicines: the seeds can be crushed and added to hot water to cure headaches, and tea made from the dried roots and leaves, has been used to treat stomach and bowel complaints.
Aquilegia flavescens is a protected plant and so the flowers should never be picked, or the plants dug up and removed. It is easy to cultivate from seed for use in gardens and seeds can be purchased from reputable garden centres.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Description
Bug Orchid plants can grow up to 60 cm in height with dense heads of deep wine-red flowers; they have dark red spots on the lips, which are much paler in the centre. The common name of this orchid apparently refers to the somewhat unpleasant smell of the flowers.
Distribution
Anacamptis coriophora occurs in the Balkans and throughout much of central and southern Europe. This orchid can be found in the Algarve (Portugal), Bulgaria, Greece, Russia, Romania, Germany and several other central European countries including Slovenia,Some authorities recognise a subspecies Anacamptis coriophora subsp. fragrans, which is said to have a sweeter scent and to differ slightly in appearance.
Habitat
The Bug orchid grows in damp meadows and other fairly wet places in full sunshine. It is now rather rare and localised and is in serious decline due to habitat destruction.
Flowering times
Depending on location the flowering time ranges from early May to early July.
Bug Orchid plants can grow up to 60 cm in height with dense heads of deep wine-red flowers; they have dark red spots on the lips, which are much paler in the centre. The common name of this orchid apparently refers to the somewhat unpleasant smell of the flowers.
Distribution
Anacamptis coriophora occurs in the Balkans and throughout much of central and southern Europe. This orchid can be found in the Algarve (Portugal), Bulgaria, Greece, Russia, Romania, Germany and several other central European countries including Slovenia,Some authorities recognise a subspecies Anacamptis coriophora subsp. fragrans, which is said to have a sweeter scent and to differ slightly in appearance.
Habitat
The Bug orchid grows in damp meadows and other fairly wet places in full sunshine. It is now rather rare and localised and is in serious decline due to habitat destruction.
Flowering times
Depending on location the flowering time ranges from early May to early July.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
By the time Wild Leek is in full bloom, its leaves are very likely to have shriveled and become unrecognisable. Fortunately, however, the flowers are quite distinctive.
Identification
From bulbs up to 3cm in diameter, round stems, known as scapes, grow to typically 50cm but exceptionally to well over a metre in height. Each scape carries an umbel of typically 100 but occasionally up to 500 deeply-cupped flowers.
The individual flowers are up to 6mm in diameter with white, pink or reddish tepals. The anthers are often yellow but sometimes purple.
Distribution
In Britain and Ireland this lovely wildflower is rare and restricted to the coastal areas of the south west of England and the West of Ireland. This relative of Wild Garlic is common in the Iberian Peninsula and throughout the Mediterranean region.
Together with all other Allium species and several other related groups, this wildflower was until recently classified as a member of the Lily family (liliaceae), but recent taxonomic revisions now place it in the family Asparagaceae.
Habitat
Wild Leek colonises sandy edges of fields and coastal paths, but these plants can also be found on fallow farmland further inland.
Blooming Times
Depending on location Wild Leek blooms from May until July.
At first the inflorescence appears in an almost perfect globe, but as the flowers age they droop forming the rather attractive waterfall effect seen in the picture on the left.
Uses
It is widely believed that cultivated leeks were derived from this species.
Identification
From bulbs up to 3cm in diameter, round stems, known as scapes, grow to typically 50cm but exceptionally to well over a metre in height. Each scape carries an umbel of typically 100 but occasionally up to 500 deeply-cupped flowers.
The individual flowers are up to 6mm in diameter with white, pink or reddish tepals. The anthers are often yellow but sometimes purple.
Distribution
In Britain and Ireland this lovely wildflower is rare and restricted to the coastal areas of the south west of England and the West of Ireland. This relative of Wild Garlic is common in the Iberian Peninsula and throughout the Mediterranean region.
Together with all other Allium species and several other related groups, this wildflower was until recently classified as a member of the Lily family (liliaceae), but recent taxonomic revisions now place it in the family Asparagaceae.
Habitat
Wild Leek colonises sandy edges of fields and coastal paths, but these plants can also be found on fallow farmland further inland.
Blooming Times
Depending on location Wild Leek blooms from May until July.
At first the inflorescence appears in an almost perfect globe, but as the flowers age they droop forming the rather attractive waterfall effect seen in the picture on the left.
Uses
It is widely believed that cultivated leeks were derived from this species.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
The genus Anemone consists of 120 species of perennial flowering plants, which grow from tubers. Anemones grow wild in many European countries, in North America, and Japan. Anemones are closely related to Pasque flower (Pulsatilla) and Hepatica (Hepatica); some botanists include both of these genera within the genus Anemone.
Facts About Anemones
The name Anemone comes from Greek and roughly means wind flower, which signifies that the wind that blows the petal open will also, eventually, blow the dead petals away.
The Anemone plants are perennial herbs with an underground rootstock, and radical, more or less deeply cut leaves.
The elongated flower stem bears one or several, white, red, blue or rarely yellow flowers. There is an involucre of three leaflets below each flower.
The fruits often bear long hairy styles, which aid their distribution by the wind. They produce cup-shaped yellowish, white, purple, violet, or red Anemone flowers.
Among the most popular are the autumn-flowering Japanese Anemone (Anemone hupehensis).
Yellow wood anemone (Anemone ranunculoides), also known as the Buttercup Anemone, is a similar plant with slightly smaller flowers of rich yellow colouring.
In medicine, Anemone is used as a treatment for cramps, menstrual problems and emotional distress.
Varieties of Anemone
Broadly, there are three types of Anemone flowers-
Spring flowering type, which has either rhizomes or tubers.
Tuberous Mediterranean, which flowers in spring and summer.
Larger Fall flowering type, which blooms in late summer to fall and tends to have fibrous roots.
Anemone Species
Popular species of Anemones and their common names are as follows:
Anemone blanda - Blue Anemone
Anemone coronaria - Poppy Anemone
Anemone hupehensis - Chinese Anemone
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica - Japanese Anemone
Anemone narcissiflora - Narcissus Anemone
Anemone nemorosa - Wood Anemone
Anemone ranunculoides - Yellow Woodland Anemone/buttercup anemone
Anemone sylvestris - Snowdrop Windflower
Anemone canadensis - Canada Anemone
Anemone fulgens - Scarlet Windflower
Anemone pulsatilla - Pasque Flower
Anemone apennina - Apennine Windflower
Growing Anemones
Different Anemones have different growing requirements. Most Anemones should be planted in the fall. If the planted Anemone is tuberous, separate the tubers in summer, when the plant is dormant. If rhizomatous, separate the rhizomes in spring. If the Anemone has fibrous roots, divide the plant in early spring or autumn but keep the plant in the pot for a year until established.
Windflowers should be grown in very well-drained, moderately fertile soil in a lightly shaded or sunny location.
Plant the tubers in the fall or spring, unless you live north of their adapted zones; in this case, plant in the spring.
Before planting, soak the tubers for a few hours or overnight; if you soak them overnight, you will be able to see the slightly swollen areas from which shoots will grow.
Plant the tubers 3 to 4 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart.
If not sure which end is up, lay them on their sides.
Anemone Plant Care
Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system.
For a neat appearance, remove old foliage before new leaves emerge.
Divide clumps every 2 to 3 years in early spring.
Cut right back to the ground in late Autumn. They will shoot away again in Spring.
Facts About Anemones
The name Anemone comes from Greek and roughly means wind flower, which signifies that the wind that blows the petal open will also, eventually, blow the dead petals away.
The Anemone plants are perennial herbs with an underground rootstock, and radical, more or less deeply cut leaves.
The elongated flower stem bears one or several, white, red, blue or rarely yellow flowers. There is an involucre of three leaflets below each flower.
The fruits often bear long hairy styles, which aid their distribution by the wind. They produce cup-shaped yellowish, white, purple, violet, or red Anemone flowers.
Among the most popular are the autumn-flowering Japanese Anemone (Anemone hupehensis).
Yellow wood anemone (Anemone ranunculoides), also known as the Buttercup Anemone, is a similar plant with slightly smaller flowers of rich yellow colouring.
In medicine, Anemone is used as a treatment for cramps, menstrual problems and emotional distress.
Varieties of Anemone
Broadly, there are three types of Anemone flowers-
Spring flowering type, which has either rhizomes or tubers.
Tuberous Mediterranean, which flowers in spring and summer.
Larger Fall flowering type, which blooms in late summer to fall and tends to have fibrous roots.
Anemone Species
Popular species of Anemones and their common names are as follows:
Anemone blanda - Blue Anemone
Anemone coronaria - Poppy Anemone
Anemone hupehensis - Chinese Anemone
Anemone hupehensis var. japonica - Japanese Anemone
Anemone narcissiflora - Narcissus Anemone
Anemone nemorosa - Wood Anemone
Anemone ranunculoides - Yellow Woodland Anemone/buttercup anemone
Anemone sylvestris - Snowdrop Windflower
Anemone canadensis - Canada Anemone
Anemone fulgens - Scarlet Windflower
Anemone pulsatilla - Pasque Flower
Anemone apennina - Apennine Windflower
Growing Anemones
Different Anemones have different growing requirements. Most Anemones should be planted in the fall. If the planted Anemone is tuberous, separate the tubers in summer, when the plant is dormant. If rhizomatous, separate the rhizomes in spring. If the Anemone has fibrous roots, divide the plant in early spring or autumn but keep the plant in the pot for a year until established.
Windflowers should be grown in very well-drained, moderately fertile soil in a lightly shaded or sunny location.
Plant the tubers in the fall or spring, unless you live north of their adapted zones; in this case, plant in the spring.
Before planting, soak the tubers for a few hours or overnight; if you soak them overnight, you will be able to see the slightly swollen areas from which shoots will grow.
Plant the tubers 3 to 4 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart.
If not sure which end is up, lay them on their sides.
Anemone Plant Care
Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system.
For a neat appearance, remove old foliage before new leaves emerge.
Divide clumps every 2 to 3 years in early spring.
Cut right back to the ground in late Autumn. They will shoot away again in Spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rheum rhabarbarum
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable, though it is generally used as a fruit in desserts and jams. Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest your own rhubarb.
Of the rhubarb plant, only the stalks are eaten. These have a rich, tart flavor. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are poisonous, so be sure that they are not ingested. Rhubarb is easy to grow, but needs cool weather to thrive.
PLANTING
Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds.
Choose a site that is well-drained, fertile, and preferably in full sunlight. Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF in the winter and below 75ºF in the summer.
Plant one-year rhubarb crowns in early spring as soon as the ground is workable, when the roots are still dormant and before growth begins or plants are just beginning to leaf out.
Rhubarb can also be planted in the fall after dormancy has set in.
Dig large bushel basket-size holes. Space rhubarb plants about 4 feet apart and plant the roots 1 to 2 inches below the surface of the soil.
Be sure to mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter in the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Don’t add a chemical fertilizer when planting rhubarb or during the first year of growth. Direct contact with nitrates can kill your rhubarb plants.
CARE
Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw and cow manure to provide nutrients for the plant, retain moisture, and discourage weeds.
Water your plant well. It needs sufficient moisture during the summer.
Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear.
After the first spring frost, apply a light sprinkling of a high-nitrogen fertilizer (25-3-3 or 10-6-4) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed, so that the fertilizer will go into the ground and not harm the roots.
Insects and diseases won’t bother rhubarb plants as long as you keep the plants weed-free.
Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or fall).
PESTS/DISEASES
Crown rot
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable, though it is generally used as a fruit in desserts and jams. Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest your own rhubarb.
Of the rhubarb plant, only the stalks are eaten. These have a rich, tart flavor. The leaves of the rhubarb plant are poisonous, so be sure that they are not ingested. Rhubarb is easy to grow, but needs cool weather to thrive.
PLANTING
Before planting, eliminate all perennial weeds.
Choose a site that is well-drained, fertile, and preferably in full sunlight. Rhubarb does best where the average temperature falls below 40ºF in the winter and below 75ºF in the summer.
Plant one-year rhubarb crowns in early spring as soon as the ground is workable, when the roots are still dormant and before growth begins or plants are just beginning to leaf out.
Rhubarb can also be planted in the fall after dormancy has set in.
Dig large bushel basket-size holes. Space rhubarb plants about 4 feet apart and plant the roots 1 to 2 inches below the surface of the soil.
Be sure to mix compost, rotted manure, or anything high in organic matter in the soil. Rhubarb plants are heavy feeders and need this organic matter. Don’t add a chemical fertilizer when planting rhubarb or during the first year of growth. Direct contact with nitrates can kill your rhubarb plants.
CARE
Mulch generously with a heavy layer of straw and cow manure to provide nutrients for the plant, retain moisture, and discourage weeds.
Water your plant well. It needs sufficient moisture during the summer.
Remove seed stalks as soon as they appear.
After the first spring frost, apply a light sprinkling of a high-nitrogen fertilizer (25-3-3 or 10-6-4) when the ground is thawing or has just thawed, so that the fertilizer will go into the ground and not harm the roots.
Insects and diseases won’t bother rhubarb plants as long as you keep the plants weed-free.
Dig and split rhubarb roots every 3 to 4 years. Divide when plants are dormant in early spring (or fall).
PESTS/DISEASES
Crown rot
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Rubus
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Raspberries are relatively easy to grow and—with proper care—can bear fruit indefinitely! Though raspberry bushes are naturally inclined to grow in cooler climates, the plants now come in many varieties suited to a range of planting zones.
There are two types of raspberries, both with their own specific requirements for growing:
Summer-fruiting raspberries bear one crop per season, in summertime (often June or July).
Ever-bearing raspberries (also called fall-bearing or primocane-fruiting) bear a fall crop and can also produce fruit the following summer.
Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties and all are self-fertile, meaning you’ll get fruit with only one variety. They’re best pollinated by bees, and will start producing fruit a year after planting.
All raspberries will need pruning annually! Raspberries are perennials, however it’s important to realize that their branches (or canes) which bear the fruit live for only two summers. During the first year, the new green cane (primocane) grows vegetatively. The cane develops a brown bark, is dormant in winter, and during the second growing season is called a floricane. The floricane produces fruit in early to mid summer and then dies. New primocanes are produced each year, so fruit production continues year after year. It’s your job to prune out those dead canes each year.
PLANTING
Raspberry plants can be purchased as dormant, bare-root plants or as potted plants. Plant bare-root transplants in the early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant potted transplants in the spring after threat of frost has passed.
Pick a site with full sun to produce the most fruit. The plant will grow in part shade, but harvests will be meager.
Your site needs rich and well-drained soil, great air circulation, and shelter from wind. Avoid a wet area, as well as a windy spot, as raspberries do not like to stand in water nor dry out.
Prepare soil with a couple inches of compost or aged manure a couple weeks before planting. (A good rate is about 3 ½ cubic feet of compost per 100 square feet.) Till the soil well before planting.
Plant far from wild growing berries, otherwise risk the spread of pests and diseases to your garden.
Before planting, soak the roots for an hour or two.
Dig a hole that is roomy enough for the roots to spread.
Whether you’re planting bare-root or potted plants, keep the crown of the plant 1 or 2 inches above the ground.
Space red and yellow raspberry plants from 2 to 3 feet apart, in rows 8 feet apart. Space black and purple types 4 feet apart.
Depending on the variety you plant, you may need to fashion a support. A trellis or a fence are good options. If you chose to use one of these, establish them at or before time of planting so the plants are not disturbed when maturing.
CARE
Mulching is important throughout the season to conserve moisture and suffocate weeds. Keep a thick layer of mulch surrounding plants at all times.
Water one inch per week from spring until after harvest. Regular watering is better than deep soaking.
The roots send up an abundant amount of shoots, called canes. Keep order by pruning away the majority of them, so that the survivors can produce lots of berries.
Pruning
Summer-Bearers produce berries on two year old canes while one year old canes grow right beside them. You shouldn’t have trouble telling which is which: the older canes have brown stems, and the young ones are still green. Prune only the older ones, the ones that have finished their fruitful year.
Red raspberries: Prune any time after the last harvest and before growth begins in the spring. Cut all canes that produced fruit to the ground. Thin to 6 sturdy canes per hill (per foot of row). In areas where winter injury is common, you may delay thinning the primocanes until the following spring, when you will be able to tell which canes have survived. Before growth starts in spring, cut the canes to about 12 inches above the support. Don’t cut back more than 25% of each cane, to avoid reducing yield.
Black and purple raspberries: When primocanes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching. This will make the fruit easier to pick and increase production. After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level. Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches so they are 12 to 18 inches long. Select 6 canes per hill, and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system.
Ever-bearing or fall-bearing raspberries
This is easy. Just cut all canes to the ground any time after harvest and before growth begins in the spring. They give fruit on canes which are in their first year of growth, after which there is no reason to keep them. Mow them to the ground or use pruning shears for a small patch.
Clean up all debris—diseases and pests overwinter.
Pruning is not required during the growing season unless you want to keep a uniform order.
Note: The above assumes you are harvesting a fall crop. To get both fall and following summer crop, do not remove the primocanes that produced the fall crop. Prune them back in spring to about 12 inches above the support, or to the last visible node that had fruit, cutting off the dead tips.
PESTS/DISEASES
Raspberries are one of the few fruits that are hardly bothered by pests and diseases. (Black raspberries are more susceptible to this type of damage than red or purple.)
Keep an eye out for spider mites and Japanese beetles from June through August.
Rabbits love to eat the canes in winter. A chicken wire fence will help prevent rabbit damage.
Powdery Mildew
Cane Borers
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Raspberries are relatively easy to grow and—with proper care—can bear fruit indefinitely! Though raspberry bushes are naturally inclined to grow in cooler climates, the plants now come in many varieties suited to a range of planting zones.
There are two types of raspberries, both with their own specific requirements for growing:
Summer-fruiting raspberries bear one crop per season, in summertime (often June or July).
Ever-bearing raspberries (also called fall-bearing or primocane-fruiting) bear a fall crop and can also produce fruit the following summer.
Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties and all are self-fertile, meaning you’ll get fruit with only one variety. They’re best pollinated by bees, and will start producing fruit a year after planting.
All raspberries will need pruning annually! Raspberries are perennials, however it’s important to realize that their branches (or canes) which bear the fruit live for only two summers. During the first year, the new green cane (primocane) grows vegetatively. The cane develops a brown bark, is dormant in winter, and during the second growing season is called a floricane. The floricane produces fruit in early to mid summer and then dies. New primocanes are produced each year, so fruit production continues year after year. It’s your job to prune out those dead canes each year.
PLANTING
Raspberry plants can be purchased as dormant, bare-root plants or as potted plants. Plant bare-root transplants in the early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. Plant potted transplants in the spring after threat of frost has passed.
Pick a site with full sun to produce the most fruit. The plant will grow in part shade, but harvests will be meager.
Your site needs rich and well-drained soil, great air circulation, and shelter from wind. Avoid a wet area, as well as a windy spot, as raspberries do not like to stand in water nor dry out.
Prepare soil with a couple inches of compost or aged manure a couple weeks before planting. (A good rate is about 3 ½ cubic feet of compost per 100 square feet.) Till the soil well before planting.
Plant far from wild growing berries, otherwise risk the spread of pests and diseases to your garden.
Before planting, soak the roots for an hour or two.
Dig a hole that is roomy enough for the roots to spread.
Whether you’re planting bare-root or potted plants, keep the crown of the plant 1 or 2 inches above the ground.
Space red and yellow raspberry plants from 2 to 3 feet apart, in rows 8 feet apart. Space black and purple types 4 feet apart.
Depending on the variety you plant, you may need to fashion a support. A trellis or a fence are good options. If you chose to use one of these, establish them at or before time of planting so the plants are not disturbed when maturing.
CARE
Mulching is important throughout the season to conserve moisture and suffocate weeds. Keep a thick layer of mulch surrounding plants at all times.
Water one inch per week from spring until after harvest. Regular watering is better than deep soaking.
The roots send up an abundant amount of shoots, called canes. Keep order by pruning away the majority of them, so that the survivors can produce lots of berries.
Pruning
Summer-Bearers produce berries on two year old canes while one year old canes grow right beside them. You shouldn’t have trouble telling which is which: the older canes have brown stems, and the young ones are still green. Prune only the older ones, the ones that have finished their fruitful year.
Red raspberries: Prune any time after the last harvest and before growth begins in the spring. Cut all canes that produced fruit to the ground. Thin to 6 sturdy canes per hill (per foot of row). In areas where winter injury is common, you may delay thinning the primocanes until the following spring, when you will be able to tell which canes have survived. Before growth starts in spring, cut the canes to about 12 inches above the support. Don’t cut back more than 25% of each cane, to avoid reducing yield.
Black and purple raspberries: When primocanes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch out the tip of each shoot to induce branching. This will make the fruit easier to pick and increase production. After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground level. Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side branches so they are 12 to 18 inches long. Select 6 canes per hill, and prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system.
Ever-bearing or fall-bearing raspberries
This is easy. Just cut all canes to the ground any time after harvest and before growth begins in the spring. They give fruit on canes which are in their first year of growth, after which there is no reason to keep them. Mow them to the ground or use pruning shears for a small patch.
Clean up all debris—diseases and pests overwinter.
Pruning is not required during the growing season unless you want to keep a uniform order.
Note: The above assumes you are harvesting a fall crop. To get both fall and following summer crop, do not remove the primocanes that produced the fall crop. Prune them back in spring to about 12 inches above the support, or to the last visible node that had fruit, cutting off the dead tips.
PESTS/DISEASES
Raspberries are one of the few fruits that are hardly bothered by pests and diseases. (Black raspberries are more susceptible to this type of damage than red or purple.)
Keep an eye out for spider mites and Japanese beetles from June through August.
Rabbits love to eat the canes in winter. A chicken wire fence will help prevent rabbit damage.
Powdery Mildew
Cane Borers
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Prunus
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Plums are a good choice for beginner gardeners who want to grow fruit trees, as plum trees are widely adapted, more compact, and require less care than most other fruit trees. Not only are plums delicious, but the trees themselves add beauty to any garden.
PLANTING
Be prepared to plant more than one type of plum tree because many types require cross-pollination to produce fruit, although there are some varieties that can produce fruit on their own.
It is also important to choose a type that will work with your location. There are three categories of plum trees: European, Japanese, and Damson. The hardy European types work in most regions across the U.S., whereas the Japanese types flourish where peach trees thrive. There are also American hybrids that work well in regions where neither European or Japanese types survive.
Plant plum trees in well-drained, moderately fertile soil in full sun. Avoid planting in low areas where frost may settle, as the frost will damage your trees.
If possible, find a sheltered position, such as a south- or west-facing spot out of the wind. This will help the plum tree set fruit.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, keep the graft union 1 inch above the soil line when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 15 to 20 feet apart.
CARE
Thinning plum trees is important to prevent branches from breaking under the weight of the fruit. If branches do break, prune them back to undamaged wood, ideally cutting back to a natural fork to avoid leaving stubs.
Be sure to water the young trees heavily every week during the first growing season to help promote growth. Then, water regularly. It’s best to water the plant deeply at the soil line, then let the soil dry out (though not completely) and water again.
Water your tree well into mid-October to give it plenty of moisture through the winter months.
Do not fertilize young fruit trees until they have set a crop.
Once established, fruit production requires regular fertilizing all year long. If there’s good fruit set, fertilize with one pound calcium nitrate per tree or 1½ lb. 10-10-10. Cut back the nitrogen in fall and winter to avoid encouraging new growth in those seasons.
In the fall, rake away all debris and fallen trees.
Prune in early spring or mid-summer to avoid infection. The best time for pruning is usually spring for young trees and mid-summer for established ones.
Do NOT prune in the fall or winter injury and infection may occur.
Are you having pest issues? Talk to your local cooperative extension or garden center about a spray program.
To help control pests and diseases, remember to prune your trees to keep them open. You can also mulch around the trees in the spring to help control weeds, but be sure to remove the mulch in the late fall so that no pests use it over the winter. You can also lightly cultivate the soil around your trees in late spring to eliminate any pests in the soil.
To prevent winter injury: Consider a tree wrap or guard around the lower trunk, especially for a young plum tree.
Keep an eye on the lower bark and branches for mouse or rabbit damage; if this could be a problem, you may need to install tree guards or fence in young trees with chicken wire for the winter.
Pruning: Japanese Plum Trees
If you have a Japanese variety, the best pruning method is to create an “open center” shape, where the central trunk is cut short and several large branches radiate outwards from it’s tip. In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds. After about a month, check the tree. As soon as you have three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches. In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape.
Japanese types require heavy pruning to help keep them in shape and to produce better fruit. It is also good to thin out the fruit on these types of trees. You should space the plums about 3 to 4 inches apart on each branch.
Pruning: European Plum Trees
If you have a European variety, the best pruning method is to create a central leader. This shape features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
European types do not require fruit thinning because they do not produce as much fruit as Japanese types. However, the fruit on these types should be spaced about 2 inches apart on each branch.
PESTS/DISEASES
Silver leaf disease
Honey fungus
Bacterial canker
Pocket plum
Japanese beetles
Plum aphids
Plum moth
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Plums are a good choice for beginner gardeners who want to grow fruit trees, as plum trees are widely adapted, more compact, and require less care than most other fruit trees. Not only are plums delicious, but the trees themselves add beauty to any garden.
PLANTING
Be prepared to plant more than one type of plum tree because many types require cross-pollination to produce fruit, although there are some varieties that can produce fruit on their own.
It is also important to choose a type that will work with your location. There are three categories of plum trees: European, Japanese, and Damson. The hardy European types work in most regions across the U.S., whereas the Japanese types flourish where peach trees thrive. There are also American hybrids that work well in regions where neither European or Japanese types survive.
Plant plum trees in well-drained, moderately fertile soil in full sun. Avoid planting in low areas where frost may settle, as the frost will damage your trees.
If possible, find a sheltered position, such as a south- or west-facing spot out of the wind. This will help the plum tree set fruit.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, keep the graft union 1 inch above the soil line when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 15 to 20 feet apart.
CARE
Thinning plum trees is important to prevent branches from breaking under the weight of the fruit. If branches do break, prune them back to undamaged wood, ideally cutting back to a natural fork to avoid leaving stubs.
Be sure to water the young trees heavily every week during the first growing season to help promote growth. Then, water regularly. It’s best to water the plant deeply at the soil line, then let the soil dry out (though not completely) and water again.
Water your tree well into mid-October to give it plenty of moisture through the winter months.
Do not fertilize young fruit trees until they have set a crop.
Once established, fruit production requires regular fertilizing all year long. If there’s good fruit set, fertilize with one pound calcium nitrate per tree or 1½ lb. 10-10-10. Cut back the nitrogen in fall and winter to avoid encouraging new growth in those seasons.
In the fall, rake away all debris and fallen trees.
Prune in early spring or mid-summer to avoid infection. The best time for pruning is usually spring for young trees and mid-summer for established ones.
Do NOT prune in the fall or winter injury and infection may occur.
Are you having pest issues? Talk to your local cooperative extension or garden center about a spray program.
To help control pests and diseases, remember to prune your trees to keep them open. You can also mulch around the trees in the spring to help control weeds, but be sure to remove the mulch in the late fall so that no pests use it over the winter. You can also lightly cultivate the soil around your trees in late spring to eliminate any pests in the soil.
To prevent winter injury: Consider a tree wrap or guard around the lower trunk, especially for a young plum tree.
Keep an eye on the lower bark and branches for mouse or rabbit damage; if this could be a problem, you may need to install tree guards or fence in young trees with chicken wire for the winter.
Pruning: Japanese Plum Trees
If you have a Japanese variety, the best pruning method is to create an “open center” shape, where the central trunk is cut short and several large branches radiate outwards from it’s tip. In the summer of the first year, cut the vigorous shoots that form on the top of the tree by two or three buds. After about a month, check the tree. As soon as you have three wide-angled branches, spaced equally apart, cut back any other branches so that these three are the main branches. In the early summer of the second year, cut back the branches in the middle of the tree to short stubs and prune any shoots developing below the three main branches. After the third year, remove any shoots in the center of the tree to keep its shape.
Japanese types require heavy pruning to help keep them in shape and to produce better fruit. It is also good to thin out the fruit on these types of trees. You should space the plums about 3 to 4 inches apart on each branch.
Pruning: European Plum Trees
If you have a European variety, the best pruning method is to create a central leader. This shape features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
European types do not require fruit thinning because they do not produce as much fruit as Japanese types. However, the fruit on these types should be spaced about 2 inches apart on each branch.
PESTS/DISEASES
Silver leaf disease
Honey fungus
Bacterial canker
Pocket plum
Japanese beetles
Plum aphids
Plum moth
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Pyrus
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Biting into a juicy pear is one of the joys of the season. See how to plant, grow, and harvest pears in your own backyard. They are easy to fit into small yard spaces, and attractive, and require very little care once established.
Also, growing pears is generally easier than growing apples, as they have less pest and disease issues.
Most pear trees are not self-pollinating so plan for at least two trees to ensure consistent fruit.
There are many different types of pears; some are best eaten raw and some are best for cooking.
You can also grow pears in containers—and plant at any time of the year. (Make sure you purchase pears specifically bred for containers.)
Be aware that pears can take from 3 to 10 years to bear fruit. Once they start producing, pear trees are prolific and long-lasting!
PLANTING
If you live outside of the dry western regions, you should choose fire blight–resistant types and rootstocks.
Plan to plant at least two varieties of pear trees, as they will need to be cross-pollinated to produce fruit. Make sure the varieties are compatible with each other.
Plant in any fertile, well-drained soil in full sun in a place with good air circulation in the winter or early spring.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 12 to 15 feet apart.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them. Do not add fertilizer or topsoil to the hole.
CARE
Water the young trees well during dry spells to help establish the roots.
Apply a small amount of fertilizer early in the year. Add ⅛ pound of ammonium nitrate per tree multiplied by the number of years the tree has been set in moderately fertile soil. If you have highly fertile soil, use less fertilizer.
If the leaves are pale green or yellowish during the summer, use a little more fertilizer the next year.
If the tree grows more than 12 inches in one season, use less fertilizer the next year.
Be very careful when applying fertilizer! If you give your trees too much nitrogen, they will become more susceptible to fire blight and also may focus too much energy on producing foliage instead of flowers and fruit.
For dwarf trees, prune them to a central leader system. Standard-size trees can be pruned to either a central leader system or a modified leader system, which is easier to maintain.
The central leader system features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
Use spreaders to help shape the branches of the trees. These help the branches to spread outward rather than upward. When the branches are small, you can use clothespins to push the branches away from the main trunk. For bigger branches, use wooden slats with a “V” shape notched into each end.
Prune your trees regularly, generally lightly. Remember to thin the fruit as well, leaving about 6 inches between each cluster of fruit per branch.
After your trees are established, water them regularly.
PESTS/DISEASES
Fire blight
Pear psylla
Aphids
Mites
Powdery mildew
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Biting into a juicy pear is one of the joys of the season. See how to plant, grow, and harvest pears in your own backyard. They are easy to fit into small yard spaces, and attractive, and require very little care once established.
Also, growing pears is generally easier than growing apples, as they have less pest and disease issues.
Most pear trees are not self-pollinating so plan for at least two trees to ensure consistent fruit.
There are many different types of pears; some are best eaten raw and some are best for cooking.
You can also grow pears in containers—and plant at any time of the year. (Make sure you purchase pears specifically bred for containers.)
Be aware that pears can take from 3 to 10 years to bear fruit. Once they start producing, pear trees are prolific and long-lasting!
PLANTING
If you live outside of the dry western regions, you should choose fire blight–resistant types and rootstocks.
Plan to plant at least two varieties of pear trees, as they will need to be cross-pollinated to produce fruit. Make sure the varieties are compatible with each other.
Plant in any fertile, well-drained soil in full sun in a place with good air circulation in the winter or early spring.
Space standard-size trees 20 to 25 feet apart. Space dwarf trees 12 to 15 feet apart.
For container-grown trees, remove the plant from its pot and remove any circling roots by laying the root ball on its side and using shears to cut through the roots.
For grafted trees, position the inside of the curve of the graft union away from the sun when planting.
Dig a hole that is a few inches deeper and wider than the spread of the roots. Set the tree on top of a small mound of soil in the middle of the hole. Be sure to spread the roots away from the trunk without excessively bending them. Do not add fertilizer or topsoil to the hole.
CARE
Water the young trees well during dry spells to help establish the roots.
Apply a small amount of fertilizer early in the year. Add ⅛ pound of ammonium nitrate per tree multiplied by the number of years the tree has been set in moderately fertile soil. If you have highly fertile soil, use less fertilizer.
If the leaves are pale green or yellowish during the summer, use a little more fertilizer the next year.
If the tree grows more than 12 inches in one season, use less fertilizer the next year.
Be very careful when applying fertilizer! If you give your trees too much nitrogen, they will become more susceptible to fire blight and also may focus too much energy on producing foliage instead of flowers and fruit.
For dwarf trees, prune them to a central leader system. Standard-size trees can be pruned to either a central leader system or a modified leader system, which is easier to maintain.
The central leader system features a central trunk with branches that spiral out every 5 to 8 inches, making sure that no branch is directly above another. The training for such a system begins in the early summer of the first year, during which time you should remove any shoots that form within 18 inches of the ground. The end result should resemble a Christmas tree.
Use spreaders to help shape the branches of the trees. These help the branches to spread outward rather than upward. When the branches are small, you can use clothespins to push the branches away from the main trunk. For bigger branches, use wooden slats with a “V” shape notched into each end.
Prune your trees regularly, generally lightly. Remember to thin the fruit as well, leaving about 6 inches between each cluster of fruit per branch.
After your trees are established, water them regularly.
PESTS/DISEASES
Fire blight
Pear psylla
Aphids
Mites
Powdery mildew
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Citrus spp
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Standard-size grapefruit and orange trees can grow 18 to 22 feet tall, whereas dwarf varieties only grow 8 to 12 feet tall.
Most citrus varieties are self-fertile, so only one tree is needed for fruit production. On average, fruit bearing begins when the trees are between 3 and 6 years old; however, exact timing will depend on the type of citrus (lemons, oranges, grapefruit, etc.), the cultivar, your climate, the health of the plant and its care, and other factors. Flowering is not seasonal, but occurs during warm weather and regular rainfall. Flowers and fruits may coincide.
PLANTING
Citrus trees should be planted in a sunny and wind-protected area.
In the citrus belt (a loosely defined area stretching from southern California to Florida), trees can be planted at any time, however, spring is the best time for container-grown plants.
Standard-size citrus trees should be spaced 12 to 25 feet apart and dwarf citrus trees should be set 6 to 10 feet apart. The exact distance depends on the variety. The bigger the fruit, the farther the distance.
If the soil is not well-drained, plant the trees on a slight mound to prevent waterlogging.
To plant citrus trees inside from seeds, remove the seeds from the desired fruit. Soak the seeds overnight in water and plant them ½ inch deep in moist potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or wrap and let it sit in a warm and sunny spot for a few weeks until the seeds start to grow. Then, remove the plastic but keep the pot near a warm and sunny window.
CARE
A few weeks after planting, and for the first few years (before bearing age), feed the tree a balanced (such as 6-6-6) fertilizer. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
For newly bearing trees, provide nutrients to continue branch and leaf growth, but also to replace nutrients lost by fruit forming. A citrus blend is ideal.
Check manufacturer’s directions, ask a garden nursery, or consult your local cooperative extension as to how often and how much fertilizer to apply during each year of a tree’s growth.
Mulches are not recommended for citrus trees, but if trees are located in a cultivated plant bed where mulch is used, keep at least 12 inches of bare ground between the tree trunk and the mulch. Pre-emergent herbicides may be used to prevent weed seeds from germinating.
Fruit thinning is unnecessary for citrus trees, as they typically experience something called the “June drop.” In late spring or early summer (May or June for most of the country), citrus trees naturally drop a number of their immature fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Spider Mites
Root and Crown Rots
Fungal Leaf Spots
Fruit Flies
Tristeza Virus spread by Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Standard-size grapefruit and orange trees can grow 18 to 22 feet tall, whereas dwarf varieties only grow 8 to 12 feet tall.
Most citrus varieties are self-fertile, so only one tree is needed for fruit production. On average, fruit bearing begins when the trees are between 3 and 6 years old; however, exact timing will depend on the type of citrus (lemons, oranges, grapefruit, etc.), the cultivar, your climate, the health of the plant and its care, and other factors. Flowering is not seasonal, but occurs during warm weather and regular rainfall. Flowers and fruits may coincide.
PLANTING
Citrus trees should be planted in a sunny and wind-protected area.
In the citrus belt (a loosely defined area stretching from southern California to Florida), trees can be planted at any time, however, spring is the best time for container-grown plants.
Standard-size citrus trees should be spaced 12 to 25 feet apart and dwarf citrus trees should be set 6 to 10 feet apart. The exact distance depends on the variety. The bigger the fruit, the farther the distance.
If the soil is not well-drained, plant the trees on a slight mound to prevent waterlogging.
To plant citrus trees inside from seeds, remove the seeds from the desired fruit. Soak the seeds overnight in water and plant them ½ inch deep in moist potting soil. Cover the pot with a plastic bag or wrap and let it sit in a warm and sunny spot for a few weeks until the seeds start to grow. Then, remove the plastic but keep the pot near a warm and sunny window.
CARE
A few weeks after planting, and for the first few years (before bearing age), feed the tree a balanced (such as 6-6-6) fertilizer. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
For newly bearing trees, provide nutrients to continue branch and leaf growth, but also to replace nutrients lost by fruit forming. A citrus blend is ideal.
Check manufacturer’s directions, ask a garden nursery, or consult your local cooperative extension as to how often and how much fertilizer to apply during each year of a tree’s growth.
Mulches are not recommended for citrus trees, but if trees are located in a cultivated plant bed where mulch is used, keep at least 12 inches of bare ground between the tree trunk and the mulch. Pre-emergent herbicides may be used to prevent weed seeds from germinating.
Fruit thinning is unnecessary for citrus trees, as they typically experience something called the “June drop.” In late spring or early summer (May or June for most of the country), citrus trees naturally drop a number of their immature fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Spider Mites
Root and Crown Rots
Fungal Leaf Spots
Fruit Flies
Tristeza Virus spread by Aphids
2
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Vaccinium
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Acidic
Plump, juicy berries are now easy to grow in your backyard on bushes that are resistant to most pests and diseases, and can produce for up to 20 years. A relative of rhododendron and azalea, blueberry bushes aren’t just a great edible plant but also an attractive addition to your overall landscape, offering scarlet fall foliage and creamy white spring flowers.
Note: Blueberries are a favorite snack of hungry birds, so it’s recommended that you protect blueberry bushes ahead of time with netting or other methods.
There are three types of blueberries: highbush, lowbush, and hybrid half-high. The most commonly planted blueberry is the highbush. Most blueberry breeding has focused on this species, so there are many varieties that range widely in cold hardiness and fruit season, size, and flavor. See more about blueberry varieties below.
PLANTING
Blueberries thrive in soil that is acidic. The soil pH should ideally be between 4 and 5. The more organic matter added, the more tolerance to acidity blueberries will have.
The blueberry is a shallow-rooted plant. Therefore, it requires a soil that hold moisture, but also drains well and doesn’t stay wet.
Mix organic matter bushes into the soil before you set your blueberry bushes.
Bushes should be planted as early in the spring as possible. If available, one to three-year-old plants are a good choice. Be sure to go to a reputable nursery.
Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide (about twice as wide and twice as deep as the roots of the plant).
Space bushes about 5 feet apart in a row, with at least 8 feet between rows. Prepare a planting mixture of 2 parts loam and one part oak leaf mold, peat moss, aged sawdust, or compost, and place a layer of this mixture in the bottom of the hole.
Set the bush, with its roots spread out, at a depth of one inch more than it grew in the nursery and pack the hole tightly with soil.
Apply fertilizer one month after planting, not at time of planting. Then apply 1/2 ounce of a 10-10-10 fertilizer in a band around the plant 6 to 12 inches from the crown.
CARE
Mulch to keep shallow blueberry root systems moist, which is essential. Apply a 2-4 inch layer of woodchips, saw dust, or pine needles after planting.
Supply one to two inches of water per week.
It is imperative to drape netting over ripening blueberries, so that the birds won’t make away with the entire crop.
One year after planting, apply one ounce of 10-10-10 fertilizer per bush at bloom, and increase the rate by one ounce each year thereafter to a maximum of 8 ounces for mature bushes.
Do not allow the bush to produce fruit for the first year or two after planting. Pinch back any blossoms developing on newly set plants to allow growth.
For the first four years after planting, there is no need to prune blueberry bushes. From then on, pruning is needed to stimulate growth of the new shoots that will bear fruit the following season.
Prune plants in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
Cut out dead, broken, short, weak, and spindly shoots.
On highbush varieties, begin with large cuts, removing wood that is more than six years old, drooping to the ground, or crowding the center of the bush. Also remove low-growing branches whose fruit will touch the ground, as well as spindly twigs.
Prune lowbush blueberries by cutting all stems to ground level. Pruned plants will not bear the season following pruning, so prune a different half of a planting every two years (or a different third of a planting every three years).
PESTS/DISEASES
Birds
Blueberry Maggot
Powdery Mildew
PLANT TYPE: Fruit
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Acidic
Plump, juicy berries are now easy to grow in your backyard on bushes that are resistant to most pests and diseases, and can produce for up to 20 years. A relative of rhododendron and azalea, blueberry bushes aren’t just a great edible plant but also an attractive addition to your overall landscape, offering scarlet fall foliage and creamy white spring flowers.
Note: Blueberries are a favorite snack of hungry birds, so it’s recommended that you protect blueberry bushes ahead of time with netting or other methods.
There are three types of blueberries: highbush, lowbush, and hybrid half-high. The most commonly planted blueberry is the highbush. Most blueberry breeding has focused on this species, so there are many varieties that range widely in cold hardiness and fruit season, size, and flavor. See more about blueberry varieties below.
PLANTING
Blueberries thrive in soil that is acidic. The soil pH should ideally be between 4 and 5. The more organic matter added, the more tolerance to acidity blueberries will have.
The blueberry is a shallow-rooted plant. Therefore, it requires a soil that hold moisture, but also drains well and doesn’t stay wet.
Mix organic matter bushes into the soil before you set your blueberry bushes.
Bushes should be planted as early in the spring as possible. If available, one to three-year-old plants are a good choice. Be sure to go to a reputable nursery.
Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide (about twice as wide and twice as deep as the roots of the plant).
Space bushes about 5 feet apart in a row, with at least 8 feet between rows. Prepare a planting mixture of 2 parts loam and one part oak leaf mold, peat moss, aged sawdust, or compost, and place a layer of this mixture in the bottom of the hole.
Set the bush, with its roots spread out, at a depth of one inch more than it grew in the nursery and pack the hole tightly with soil.
Apply fertilizer one month after planting, not at time of planting. Then apply 1/2 ounce of a 10-10-10 fertilizer in a band around the plant 6 to 12 inches from the crown.
CARE
Mulch to keep shallow blueberry root systems moist, which is essential. Apply a 2-4 inch layer of woodchips, saw dust, or pine needles after planting.
Supply one to two inches of water per week.
It is imperative to drape netting over ripening blueberries, so that the birds won’t make away with the entire crop.
One year after planting, apply one ounce of 10-10-10 fertilizer per bush at bloom, and increase the rate by one ounce each year thereafter to a maximum of 8 ounces for mature bushes.
Do not allow the bush to produce fruit for the first year or two after planting. Pinch back any blossoms developing on newly set plants to allow growth.
For the first four years after planting, there is no need to prune blueberry bushes. From then on, pruning is needed to stimulate growth of the new shoots that will bear fruit the following season.
Prune plants in late winter or early spring before new growth begins.
Cut out dead, broken, short, weak, and spindly shoots.
On highbush varieties, begin with large cuts, removing wood that is more than six years old, drooping to the ground, or crowding the center of the bush. Also remove low-growing branches whose fruit will touch the ground, as well as spindly twigs.
Prune lowbush blueberries by cutting all stems to ground level. Pruned plants will not bear the season following pruning, so prune a different half of a planting every two years (or a different third of a planting every three years).
PESTS/DISEASES
Birds
Blueberry Maggot
Powdery Mildew
3
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica rapa Rapifera Group
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Turnips are cool-weather vegetables that can be grow in both spring and in fall, avoiding the hot summer months. They mature very rapidly and you can enjoy both the greens and the roots. Try this ancient root vegetable that’s been grown for over 3,000 years.
Turnips are hardy biennials usually grown as annuals by the home gardener. We enjoy them most as an autumn crop, seeded in late summer, because they are usually sweeter and more tender than spring crops—and pests are less problematic.
What’s wonderful about turnips is that they germinate in only a few days. Within a month, you can enjoy their bright greens, and within a second month, you can eat the swollen roots. Try them as a substitute for potatoes.
PLANTING
When to Seed
For a late spring harvest, sow turnip seeds directly in the garden as soon as the ground is workable, usually 2 to 3 weeks before the average last frost date.
For an autumn harvest, sow turnips in late summer. Sow after summer crops of onions, squash, beans or sweet corn.
You can also sow seeds in early autumn for a late autumn harvest.
Planting Instructions
Turnips are seeded directly into the ground; they do not transplant well.
Select a site that gets full sun.
Soil should be well-draining and loosened to a depth of 12 to 15 inches.
In advance, mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost or aged manure. Add sand to heavy, clay soil.
Scatter turnip seed. Do not cover the seeds with more than ½ an inch of soil.
Once seedlings are 4 inches high, thin them to 4 to 6 inches apart. Space wide rows 12 inches apart.
Thin turnips grown for greens from 2 to 3 inches apart (or, some of us don’t bother thinning for greens at all).
CARE
Keep the beds weed free.
Mulch heavily.
Turnips do not need much care but consistent soil moisture is important. Keep soil lightly moist, watering at a rate of 1 inch per week to prevent the roots from becoming tough and bitter.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root Maggots
Flea Beetles
Powdery Mildew
Downy Mildew
Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Turnips are cool-weather vegetables that can be grow in both spring and in fall, avoiding the hot summer months. They mature very rapidly and you can enjoy both the greens and the roots. Try this ancient root vegetable that’s been grown for over 3,000 years.
Turnips are hardy biennials usually grown as annuals by the home gardener. We enjoy them most as an autumn crop, seeded in late summer, because they are usually sweeter and more tender than spring crops—and pests are less problematic.
What’s wonderful about turnips is that they germinate in only a few days. Within a month, you can enjoy their bright greens, and within a second month, you can eat the swollen roots. Try them as a substitute for potatoes.
PLANTING
When to Seed
For a late spring harvest, sow turnip seeds directly in the garden as soon as the ground is workable, usually 2 to 3 weeks before the average last frost date.
For an autumn harvest, sow turnips in late summer. Sow after summer crops of onions, squash, beans or sweet corn.
You can also sow seeds in early autumn for a late autumn harvest.
Planting Instructions
Turnips are seeded directly into the ground; they do not transplant well.
Select a site that gets full sun.
Soil should be well-draining and loosened to a depth of 12 to 15 inches.
In advance, mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost or aged manure. Add sand to heavy, clay soil.
Scatter turnip seed. Do not cover the seeds with more than ½ an inch of soil.
Once seedlings are 4 inches high, thin them to 4 to 6 inches apart. Space wide rows 12 inches apart.
Thin turnips grown for greens from 2 to 3 inches apart (or, some of us don’t bother thinning for greens at all).
CARE
Keep the beds weed free.
Mulch heavily.
Turnips do not need much care but consistent soil moisture is important. Keep soil lightly moist, watering at a rate of 1 inch per week to prevent the roots from becoming tough and bitter.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root Maggots
Flea Beetles
Powdery Mildew
Downy Mildew
Aphids
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Ipomoea batatas
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Sweet potatoes are a good choice for a garden because they are easy to grow, drought- and heat-tolerant, and have few pests or diseases. The sweet potato is also very nutritious and low in calories.
PLANTING
Sweet potatoes are typically grown from slips, which are sprouts that are grown from stored sweet potatoes. You can buy slips from garden centers, nurseries, or local farmers.
You can also grow your own slips to plant in the spring. In November (this is when the best of the new harvest will be out), go to your supermarket and look for unblemished and uncracked medium-size sweet potatoes. One potato should yield about 12 plants.
Store these potatoes in a well-lit room with a temperature between 65° and 70°F. Keep them there until about 90 days before the last spring frost date. They will then need to be embedded in soil for 90 days and kept continuously warm and moist.
Use a 1-½ gallon pot for every two potatoes. Remember to poke drainage holes in the bottom of the pot and fill it with 3 inches of mulch, followed by garden or potting soil. Plant the potatoes in the pot at a 45° angle so that the sprouts will grow above the soil. When the slips are 6 to 12 inches tall, you can plant them outdoors, as long as all danger of frost has passed.
After you have grown your own slips or bought them, till the area of the garden you will be using to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Create raised mounds 6 to 8 inches tall and about 12 inches wide. Use fertile, well-drained soil.
Plant the slips 12 to 18 inches apart in the bed, after the last spring frost date. Plant the slips deep enough to cover the roots and about ½ inch of the stem. Water the slips with a starter solution that is high in phosphorous, then water generously for a few days to make sure that the plants root well.
CARE
Side-dress the potatoes 3 to 4 weeks after transplanting with 3 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row. If you have sandy soil, use 5 pounds.
Hoe the beds occasionally to keep weeds down. Remember to reshape the beds with soil or mulch.
For good harvests, do not prune the vines, because they should be vigorous.
Remember to keep the potatoes watered. Deep watering in hot, dry periods will help to increase yields, although if you are planning to store some of the potatoes, do not give the plants extra water late in the season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Sweet potato scurf
White blister
Fungal leaf rot
Stem rot
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Sweet potatoes are a good choice for a garden because they are easy to grow, drought- and heat-tolerant, and have few pests or diseases. The sweet potato is also very nutritious and low in calories.
PLANTING
Sweet potatoes are typically grown from slips, which are sprouts that are grown from stored sweet potatoes. You can buy slips from garden centers, nurseries, or local farmers.
You can also grow your own slips to plant in the spring. In November (this is when the best of the new harvest will be out), go to your supermarket and look for unblemished and uncracked medium-size sweet potatoes. One potato should yield about 12 plants.
Store these potatoes in a well-lit room with a temperature between 65° and 70°F. Keep them there until about 90 days before the last spring frost date. They will then need to be embedded in soil for 90 days and kept continuously warm and moist.
Use a 1-½ gallon pot for every two potatoes. Remember to poke drainage holes in the bottom of the pot and fill it with 3 inches of mulch, followed by garden or potting soil. Plant the potatoes in the pot at a 45° angle so that the sprouts will grow above the soil. When the slips are 6 to 12 inches tall, you can plant them outdoors, as long as all danger of frost has passed.
After you have grown your own slips or bought them, till the area of the garden you will be using to a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Create raised mounds 6 to 8 inches tall and about 12 inches wide. Use fertile, well-drained soil.
Plant the slips 12 to 18 inches apart in the bed, after the last spring frost date. Plant the slips deep enough to cover the roots and about ½ inch of the stem. Water the slips with a starter solution that is high in phosphorous, then water generously for a few days to make sure that the plants root well.
CARE
Side-dress the potatoes 3 to 4 weeks after transplanting with 3 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 feet of row. If you have sandy soil, use 5 pounds.
Hoe the beds occasionally to keep weeds down. Remember to reshape the beds with soil or mulch.
For good harvests, do not prune the vines, because they should be vigorous.
Remember to keep the potatoes watered. Deep watering in hot, dry periods will help to increase yields, although if you are planning to store some of the potatoes, do not give the plants extra water late in the season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Sweet potato scurf
White blister
Fungal leaf rot
Stem rot
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucurbita
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
HARDINESS ZONE: Varies
Squash, especially zucchini, is a prolific vegetable! Easy to grow, each plant will produce several squash a day during peak season. Make sure you harvest summer squash when tender and still immature!
There are many varieties of summer squash to choose from:
Summer squash including zucchini (Cucurbita pepo)
True winter squash (C. pepo)
Acorn squash, delicata, spaghetti squash
Butternut squash (C. moschata)
The main difference between winter and summer squash varieties is their harvest time; the longer growing period gives winter squash a tougher, inedible skin.
Squash is very susceptible to frost and heat damage so you do want to pick it all before the first fall frosts arrive.
With its bumper crops, you usually only need a plant or two for a bumper crop—and you may still find yourself giving zucchini away to neighbors or baking lots of zucchini bread!
PLANTING
If you wish to start seeds indoors due to a short gardening season, sow 2 to 4 weeks before last spring frost in peat pots.However, we recommend direct-seeding for squash because they do not always transplant well. If you do transplant, be very gentle with the roots.
If you wish to get an early start, it may be better to warm the soil with black plastic mulch once the soil has been prepared in early spring.
The soil needs to be warm (at least 60º at a two-inch depth), so plant summer squash after spring (cool-season) crops, like peas, lettuce, and spinach—about one week after the last spring frost to midsummer.
In fact, waiting to plant a few seeds in midsummer will help avoid problems from squash vine borers and other pests and diseases common earlier in the season.
The outside planting site needs to receive full sun; the soil should be moist and well-drained, but not soggy.
Squash plants are heavy feeders. Work compost and plenty of organic matter into the soil before planting for a rich soil base.
To germinate outside, use cloche or frame protection in cold climates for the first few weeks.
Plant seeds about one-inch deep and 2 to 3 feet apart in a traditional garden bed.
Alternatively, plant as a “hill” of 3 or 4 seeds sown close together on a small mound; this is helpful in northern climates, as the soil is warmer off the ground. Allow 5 to 6 feet between hills.
Most summer squashes now come in bush varieties, which take up less space, but winter squash is a vine plant and needs more space. Bush varieties will need to be thinned in early stages of development to about 8 to 12 inches apart.
CARE
Mulch plants to protect shallow roots, discourage weeds, and retain moisture.
When the first blooms appear, apply a small amount of fertilizer as a side dress application.
For all type of squash, frequent and consistent watering is recommended. Water most diligently when fruits form and throughout their growth period.
Water deeply once a week, applying at least one inch of water. Do not water shallowly; the soil needs to be moist 4 inches down.
After harvest begins, fertilize occasionally for vigorous growth and lots of fruits.
If your fruits are misshapen, they might not have received enough water or fertilization.
PESTS/DISEASES
There are a couple of challenging pests, especially the squash vine borer and the squash bug. The best solution is to get ahead of them before they arrive.
If your zucchini blooms flowers but never bears actual zucchini, or it bears fruit that stops growing when it’s very small, then it’s a pollination issue. Most squashes have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. To produce fruit, pollen from male flowers must be physically transferred to the female flowers by bees. If you do not have enough bees, you can manually pollinate with a Q-tip—or, add nearby plants that attract bees!
Cucumber Beetle
Blossom-End Rot: If the blossom ends of your squash turn black and rot, then your squash have blossom-end rot. This condition is caused by uneven soil moisture levels, often wide fluctuations between wet and dry soil. It can also be caused by calcium levels. To correct the problem, water deeply and apply a thick mulch over the soil surface to keep evaporation at a minimum. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung out sponge, not wet and not completely dried out.
Stink Bug: If your squash looks distorted with dippled area, the stink bugs overwintered in your yard. You need to spray or dust with approved insecticides and hand pick in the morning. Clean up nearby weeds and garden debris at the end of the season to avoid this problem.
Aphids
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
HARDINESS ZONE: Varies
Squash, especially zucchini, is a prolific vegetable! Easy to grow, each plant will produce several squash a day during peak season. Make sure you harvest summer squash when tender and still immature!
There are many varieties of summer squash to choose from:
Summer squash including zucchini (Cucurbita pepo)
True winter squash (C. pepo)
Acorn squash, delicata, spaghetti squash
Butternut squash (C. moschata)
The main difference between winter and summer squash varieties is their harvest time; the longer growing period gives winter squash a tougher, inedible skin.
Squash is very susceptible to frost and heat damage so you do want to pick it all before the first fall frosts arrive.
With its bumper crops, you usually only need a plant or two for a bumper crop—and you may still find yourself giving zucchini away to neighbors or baking lots of zucchini bread!
PLANTING
If you wish to start seeds indoors due to a short gardening season, sow 2 to 4 weeks before last spring frost in peat pots.However, we recommend direct-seeding for squash because they do not always transplant well. If you do transplant, be very gentle with the roots.
If you wish to get an early start, it may be better to warm the soil with black plastic mulch once the soil has been prepared in early spring.
The soil needs to be warm (at least 60º at a two-inch depth), so plant summer squash after spring (cool-season) crops, like peas, lettuce, and spinach—about one week after the last spring frost to midsummer.
In fact, waiting to plant a few seeds in midsummer will help avoid problems from squash vine borers and other pests and diseases common earlier in the season.
The outside planting site needs to receive full sun; the soil should be moist and well-drained, but not soggy.
Squash plants are heavy feeders. Work compost and plenty of organic matter into the soil before planting for a rich soil base.
To germinate outside, use cloche or frame protection in cold climates for the first few weeks.
Plant seeds about one-inch deep and 2 to 3 feet apart in a traditional garden bed.
Alternatively, plant as a “hill” of 3 or 4 seeds sown close together on a small mound; this is helpful in northern climates, as the soil is warmer off the ground. Allow 5 to 6 feet between hills.
Most summer squashes now come in bush varieties, which take up less space, but winter squash is a vine plant and needs more space. Bush varieties will need to be thinned in early stages of development to about 8 to 12 inches apart.
CARE
Mulch plants to protect shallow roots, discourage weeds, and retain moisture.
When the first blooms appear, apply a small amount of fertilizer as a side dress application.
For all type of squash, frequent and consistent watering is recommended. Water most diligently when fruits form and throughout their growth period.
Water deeply once a week, applying at least one inch of water. Do not water shallowly; the soil needs to be moist 4 inches down.
After harvest begins, fertilize occasionally for vigorous growth and lots of fruits.
If your fruits are misshapen, they might not have received enough water or fertilization.
PESTS/DISEASES
There are a couple of challenging pests, especially the squash vine borer and the squash bug. The best solution is to get ahead of them before they arrive.
If your zucchini blooms flowers but never bears actual zucchini, or it bears fruit that stops growing when it’s very small, then it’s a pollination issue. Most squashes have separate male and female flowers on the same plant. To produce fruit, pollen from male flowers must be physically transferred to the female flowers by bees. If you do not have enough bees, you can manually pollinate with a Q-tip—or, add nearby plants that attract bees!
Cucumber Beetle
Blossom-End Rot: If the blossom ends of your squash turn black and rot, then your squash have blossom-end rot. This condition is caused by uneven soil moisture levels, often wide fluctuations between wet and dry soil. It can also be caused by calcium levels. To correct the problem, water deeply and apply a thick mulch over the soil surface to keep evaporation at a minimum. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung out sponge, not wet and not completely dried out.
Stink Bug: If your squash looks distorted with dippled area, the stink bugs overwintered in your yard. You need to spray or dust with approved insecticides and hand pick in the morning. Clean up nearby weeds and garden debris at the end of the season to avoid this problem.
Aphids
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucurbita maxima, C. moschata, C. argyrosperma
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
Whether you use them for carving or cooking, pumpkins do not disappoint. Here’s how to grow your own supply of pumpkins.
Note that pumpkins do require a lot of food and a long growing season (generally from 75 to 100 frost-free days) so you need to plant them by late May in northern locations to early July in extremely southern states.
Do not plant this tender vegetable until all danger of frost has passed and the soil is warmed, as the seedlings will be injured or rot.
PLANTING
SELECTING A SITE
Pick a site with full sun (to light shade) and lots of space for sprawling vines. Vine varieties need 50 to 100 square feet per hill.
However, if your garden space is limited, no worries! Plant pumpkins at the edge of the garden and direct vine growth across the lawn or sidewalk. The vines will only be bothersome for a few weeks. You can also grow pumpkins in big 5 to 10 gallon buckets! Or, try miniature varieties.
Pumpkins are big, greedy feeders. They prefer very rich soil that is well-drained and not too soggy. Mix lots of compost and aged mature into the planting site before you sow seeds or transplant.
PLANTING BY SEED
Pumpkins do best when the seeds are planted directly in the ground.
If your growing season is very short, seed indoors in peat pots about 2 to 4 weeks before last spring frost. Be sure to harden off before transplanting.
Wait until the plant soil is 70ºF or more before sowing seeds. Optimum soil temperature is 95ºF. Pumpkins are very sensitive to the cold.
Plant seeds in rows or “pumpkin hills” which are the size of small pitcher mounds. With hills, the soil will warm more quickly and the seeds will germinate faster. This also helps with drainage and pest control.
Prepare the hills in advance with an abundance of old manure dug deep into the ground (12 to 15 inches). If you don’t have manure, loosen the soil and mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost
Plant the seeds 1 inch deep into the hills (4 to 5 seeds per hill). Space hills 4 to 8 feet apart.
Your plants should germinate in less than a week with the right soil temperature (70 degrees F) and emerge in 5 to 10 days.
When the plants are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin to 2 to 3 plants per hill by snipping off unwanted plants without disturbing the roots of the remaining ones.
In rows, sow seeds 6 to 12 inches apart in rows 6 to 10 feet apart. Snip off plants to thin to one plant every 18 to 36 inches.
CARE
Use row covers to protect plants early in the season and to prevent insect problems. However, remember to remove covers before flowering to allow pollination by insects!
Pumpkins are very thirsty plants and need lots of water. Water one inch per week. Water deeply, especially during fruit set.
When watering: Try to keep foliage and fruit dry unless it’s a sunny day. Dampness will make rot more likely.
Add mulch around your pumpkins to keep in moisture, suppress weeks, and discourage pests.
Remember that pumpkins are tender from planting to harvest. Control weeds with mulch. Do not overcultivate, or their very shallow roots may be damaged.
Most small vine varieties can be trained up a trellis.
Larger varieties can be trained upward on a trellis, too—though it is an engineering challenge to support the fruit—usually with netting or old stockings.
If your first flowers aren’t forming fruits, that’s normal. Both male and female blossoms need to open. Be patient.
Bees are essential for pollination, so be mindful when using insecticides to kill pests. If you must use, apply only in late afternoon or early evening, when blossoms are closed for the day.
Pumpkin vines, though obstinate, are very delicate. Take care not to damage vines, which reduces the quality of fruit.
Pump Up Your Pumpkins!
Pumpkins are HEAVY feeders. Regular treatments of manure or compost mixed with water will sustain good growth.
Fertilize on a regular basis. Use a high nitrogen formula in early plant growth. Fertilize when plants are about one foot tall, just before vines begin to run. Switch over to a fertilizer high in phosphorous just before the blooming period.
Pinch off the fuzzy ends of each vine after a few pumpkins have formed. This will stop vine growth so that the plant’s energies are focused on the fruit.
Pruning the vines may help with space, as well as allow the plant’s energy to be concentrated on the remaining vines and fruit.
Gardeners who are looking for a “prize for size” pumpkin might select the two or three prime candidates and remove all other fruit and vines.
As the fruit develops, they should be turned (with great care not to hurt the vine or stem) to encourage an even shape.
Slip a thin board or a piece of plastic mesh under the pumpkins.
PESTS/DISEASES
Squash bugs and cucumber beetles are common, especially later in summer. Contact your local Cooperative Extension for potential controls.
Aphids
Squash Vine Borer
Powdery Mildew
Anthracnose
Poor light, too much fertilizer, poor weather at bloom time, and reduced pollinating insect activity can negatively impact fruit set.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
Whether you use them for carving or cooking, pumpkins do not disappoint. Here’s how to grow your own supply of pumpkins.
Note that pumpkins do require a lot of food and a long growing season (generally from 75 to 100 frost-free days) so you need to plant them by late May in northern locations to early July in extremely southern states.
Do not plant this tender vegetable until all danger of frost has passed and the soil is warmed, as the seedlings will be injured or rot.
PLANTING
SELECTING A SITE
Pick a site with full sun (to light shade) and lots of space for sprawling vines. Vine varieties need 50 to 100 square feet per hill.
However, if your garden space is limited, no worries! Plant pumpkins at the edge of the garden and direct vine growth across the lawn or sidewalk. The vines will only be bothersome for a few weeks. You can also grow pumpkins in big 5 to 10 gallon buckets! Or, try miniature varieties.
Pumpkins are big, greedy feeders. They prefer very rich soil that is well-drained and not too soggy. Mix lots of compost and aged mature into the planting site before you sow seeds or transplant.
PLANTING BY SEED
Pumpkins do best when the seeds are planted directly in the ground.
If your growing season is very short, seed indoors in peat pots about 2 to 4 weeks before last spring frost. Be sure to harden off before transplanting.
Wait until the plant soil is 70ºF or more before sowing seeds. Optimum soil temperature is 95ºF. Pumpkins are very sensitive to the cold.
Plant seeds in rows or “pumpkin hills” which are the size of small pitcher mounds. With hills, the soil will warm more quickly and the seeds will germinate faster. This also helps with drainage and pest control.
Prepare the hills in advance with an abundance of old manure dug deep into the ground (12 to 15 inches). If you don’t have manure, loosen the soil and mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost
Plant the seeds 1 inch deep into the hills (4 to 5 seeds per hill). Space hills 4 to 8 feet apart.
Your plants should germinate in less than a week with the right soil temperature (70 degrees F) and emerge in 5 to 10 days.
When the plants are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin to 2 to 3 plants per hill by snipping off unwanted plants without disturbing the roots of the remaining ones.
In rows, sow seeds 6 to 12 inches apart in rows 6 to 10 feet apart. Snip off plants to thin to one plant every 18 to 36 inches.
CARE
Use row covers to protect plants early in the season and to prevent insect problems. However, remember to remove covers before flowering to allow pollination by insects!
Pumpkins are very thirsty plants and need lots of water. Water one inch per week. Water deeply, especially during fruit set.
When watering: Try to keep foliage and fruit dry unless it’s a sunny day. Dampness will make rot more likely.
Add mulch around your pumpkins to keep in moisture, suppress weeks, and discourage pests.
Remember that pumpkins are tender from planting to harvest. Control weeds with mulch. Do not overcultivate, or their very shallow roots may be damaged.
Most small vine varieties can be trained up a trellis.
Larger varieties can be trained upward on a trellis, too—though it is an engineering challenge to support the fruit—usually with netting or old stockings.
If your first flowers aren’t forming fruits, that’s normal. Both male and female blossoms need to open. Be patient.
Bees are essential for pollination, so be mindful when using insecticides to kill pests. If you must use, apply only in late afternoon or early evening, when blossoms are closed for the day.
Pumpkin vines, though obstinate, are very delicate. Take care not to damage vines, which reduces the quality of fruit.
Pump Up Your Pumpkins!
Pumpkins are HEAVY feeders. Regular treatments of manure or compost mixed with water will sustain good growth.
Fertilize on a regular basis. Use a high nitrogen formula in early plant growth. Fertilize when plants are about one foot tall, just before vines begin to run. Switch over to a fertilizer high in phosphorous just before the blooming period.
Pinch off the fuzzy ends of each vine after a few pumpkins have formed. This will stop vine growth so that the plant’s energies are focused on the fruit.
Pruning the vines may help with space, as well as allow the plant’s energy to be concentrated on the remaining vines and fruit.
Gardeners who are looking for a “prize for size” pumpkin might select the two or three prime candidates and remove all other fruit and vines.
As the fruit develops, they should be turned (with great care not to hurt the vine or stem) to encourage an even shape.
Slip a thin board or a piece of plastic mesh under the pumpkins.
PESTS/DISEASES
Squash bugs and cucumber beetles are common, especially later in summer. Contact your local Cooperative Extension for potential controls.
Aphids
Squash Vine Borer
Powdery Mildew
Anthracnose
Poor light, too much fertilizer, poor weather at bloom time, and reduced pollinating insect activity can negatively impact fruit set.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Pisum sativum
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Peas are a popular, tasty, cool-season crop. Here’s how to grow peas in your garden!
There are three varieties of peas that will suit your garden and cooking needs:
Pisum savitum, which includes both types of garden peas: sweet peas (inedible pods) and snow peas (edible flat pods with small peas inside).
Pisum macrocarpon, snap peas (edible pods with full-size peas).
Pea plants are easy to grow, but have a very limited growing season. Furthermore, peas do not stay fresh long after harvest, so enjoy them while you can!
To get the best head start, turn over your pea planting beds in the fall, add manure to the soil, and mulch well.
As with other legumes, pea roots will fix nitrogen in the soil, making it available for other plants.
Peas will appreciate a good sprinkling of wood ashes to the soil before planting.
Sow seeds outdoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost, when soil temperatures reach 45 degrees F.
Plant 1 inch deep (deeper if soil is dry) and 2 inches apart.
Get them in the ground while the soil is still cool, but do not have them sit too long in wet soil. It’s a delicate balance of proper timing and weather conditions. For soil that stays wet longer, invest in raised garden beds.
A blanket of snow won’t hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens could. Be prepared to plant again.
Peas are best grown in temperatures below 70 degrees F.
CARE
Make sure that you have well-drained, humus-rich soil.
Poke in any seeds that wash out. (A chopstick is an ideal tool for this.)
Be sure, too, that you don’t fertilize the soil too much. Peas are especially sensitive to too much nitrogen, but they may like a little bonemeal, for the phosphorus content.
Though adding compost or manure to the soil won’t hurt, peas don’t need heavy doses of fertilizer. They like phosphorus and potassium.
Water sparsely unless the plants are wilting. Do not let plants dry out, or no pods will be produced.
Do not hoe around plants to avoid disturbing fragile roots.
It’s best to rotate pea crops every year or two to avoid a buildup of soil-borne diseases.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Mexican Bean Beetles
Woodchucks
Fusarium Wilt
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Peas are a popular, tasty, cool-season crop. Here’s how to grow peas in your garden!
There are three varieties of peas that will suit your garden and cooking needs:
Pisum savitum, which includes both types of garden peas: sweet peas (inedible pods) and snow peas (edible flat pods with small peas inside).
Pisum macrocarpon, snap peas (edible pods with full-size peas).
Pea plants are easy to grow, but have a very limited growing season. Furthermore, peas do not stay fresh long after harvest, so enjoy them while you can!
To get the best head start, turn over your pea planting beds in the fall, add manure to the soil, and mulch well.
As with other legumes, pea roots will fix nitrogen in the soil, making it available for other plants.
Peas will appreciate a good sprinkling of wood ashes to the soil before planting.
Sow seeds outdoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost, when soil temperatures reach 45 degrees F.
Plant 1 inch deep (deeper if soil is dry) and 2 inches apart.
Get them in the ground while the soil is still cool, but do not have them sit too long in wet soil. It’s a delicate balance of proper timing and weather conditions. For soil that stays wet longer, invest in raised garden beds.
A blanket of snow won’t hurt emerging pea plants, but several days with temperatures in the teens could. Be prepared to plant again.
Peas are best grown in temperatures below 70 degrees F.
CARE
Make sure that you have well-drained, humus-rich soil.
Poke in any seeds that wash out. (A chopstick is an ideal tool for this.)
Be sure, too, that you don’t fertilize the soil too much. Peas are especially sensitive to too much nitrogen, but they may like a little bonemeal, for the phosphorus content.
Though adding compost or manure to the soil won’t hurt, peas don’t need heavy doses of fertilizer. They like phosphorus and potassium.
Water sparsely unless the plants are wilting. Do not let plants dry out, or no pods will be produced.
Do not hoe around plants to avoid disturbing fragile roots.
It’s best to rotate pea crops every year or two to avoid a buildup of soil-borne diseases.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Mexican Bean Beetles
Woodchucks
Fusarium Wilt
1
0
