文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Allium cepa
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Onions are a cold-season crop, easy to grow because of their hardiness.
We recommend using onion sets, which can be planted without worry of frost damage and have a higher success rate than direct seed or transplants.
PLANTING
Select a location with full sun where your onions won’t be shaded by other plants.
Soil needs to be well-drained, loose, and rich in nitrogen; compact soil affects bulb development.
Till in aged manure or fertilizer the fall before planting. Onion plants are heavy feeders and need constant nourishment to produce big bulbs.
At planting time, you can mix in some nitogen fertilizer, too, and side dress every few weeks until the bulbing process begins.
Seeding? Onion seeds are short-lived. If planting seeds indoors, start with fresh seeds each year. Start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before transplanting.
Plant onions as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, usually late March or April. Make sure temperature doesn’t go below 20 degrees F.
For sets or transplants, plant the smaller sets 1 inch deep, with 4 to 5 inches between each plant and in rows 12 to 18 inches apart.
Think of onions as a leaf crop, not a root crop. When planting onion sets, don’t bury them more than one inch under the soil; if more than the bottom third of the bulb is underground, bulb growth can be restricted.
Practice crop rotation with onions.
CARE
Fertilize every few weeks with nitrogen to get big bulbs. Cease fertilizing when the onions push the soil away and the bulbing process has started. Do not put the soil back around the onions; the bulb needs to emerge above the soil.
Generally, onion plants do not need consistent watering if mulch is used. About one inch of water per week (including rain water) is sufficient. If you want sweeter onions, water more.
Onions will look healthy even if they are bone dry, be sure to water during drought conditions.
Make sure soil is well-drained. Mulch will help retain moisture and stifle weeds.
Cut or pull any onions that send up flower stalks; this means that the onions have “bolted” and are done.
PESTS/DISEASES
Thrips: To control thrips—tiny insects about as fat as a sewing needle—take a dark piece of paper into the garden and knock the onion tops against it; if thrips are present, you will spot their tan-colored bodies on the paper. A couple of treatments with insecticidal soap kills them. Follow the package directions. Spray the plants twice, three days apart, and the thrips should disappear.
Onion Maggots: Cover your emerging onion crop with a fine mesh netting. Seal it by mounding soil around the edges. The onion maggot likes to lay its eggs at the base of plants, so the netting should prevent that. You should also keep mulch away because the insects like decaying organic matter, and make sure you completely harvest your onions as the season progresses. Onion maggots are usually a problem in very rainy periods, so these precautions may be unnecessary if you have a dry season.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: AnyLoamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Onions are a cold-season crop, easy to grow because of their hardiness.
We recommend using onion sets, which can be planted without worry of frost damage and have a higher success rate than direct seed or transplants.
PLANTING
Select a location with full sun where your onions won’t be shaded by other plants.
Soil needs to be well-drained, loose, and rich in nitrogen; compact soil affects bulb development.
Till in aged manure or fertilizer the fall before planting. Onion plants are heavy feeders and need constant nourishment to produce big bulbs.
At planting time, you can mix in some nitogen fertilizer, too, and side dress every few weeks until the bulbing process begins.
Seeding? Onion seeds are short-lived. If planting seeds indoors, start with fresh seeds each year. Start seeds indoors about 6 weeks before transplanting.
Plant onions as soon as the ground can be worked in the spring, usually late March or April. Make sure temperature doesn’t go below 20 degrees F.
For sets or transplants, plant the smaller sets 1 inch deep, with 4 to 5 inches between each plant and in rows 12 to 18 inches apart.
Think of onions as a leaf crop, not a root crop. When planting onion sets, don’t bury them more than one inch under the soil; if more than the bottom third of the bulb is underground, bulb growth can be restricted.
Practice crop rotation with onions.
CARE
Fertilize every few weeks with nitrogen to get big bulbs. Cease fertilizing when the onions push the soil away and the bulbing process has started. Do not put the soil back around the onions; the bulb needs to emerge above the soil.
Generally, onion plants do not need consistent watering if mulch is used. About one inch of water per week (including rain water) is sufficient. If you want sweeter onions, water more.
Onions will look healthy even if they are bone dry, be sure to water during drought conditions.
Make sure soil is well-drained. Mulch will help retain moisture and stifle weeds.
Cut or pull any onions that send up flower stalks; this means that the onions have “bolted” and are done.
PESTS/DISEASES
Thrips: To control thrips—tiny insects about as fat as a sewing needle—take a dark piece of paper into the garden and knock the onion tops against it; if thrips are present, you will spot their tan-colored bodies on the paper. A couple of treatments with insecticidal soap kills them. Follow the package directions. Spray the plants twice, three days apart, and the thrips should disappear.
Onion Maggots: Cover your emerging onion crop with a fine mesh netting. Seal it by mounding soil around the edges. The onion maggot likes to lay its eggs at the base of plants, so the netting should prevent that. You should also keep mulch away because the insects like decaying organic matter, and make sure you completely harvest your onions as the season progresses. Onion maggots are usually a problem in very rainy periods, so these precautions may be unnecessary if you have a dry season.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Abelmoschus esculentus
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: WhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Okra is traditionally a southern U.S. plant that thrives in warm weather. Here’s how to grow okra plants in your own garden!
Okra is easy to grow and use and looks great throughout the growing season due to its beautiful flowers. It’s also rich in vitamin A and low in calories, which makes it a great addition to your diet.
PLANTING
You can start okra seeds indoors in peat pots under full light 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date.
You can also start okra directly in your garden 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date as long as you cover the plants with a cold frame or grow tunnel until the weather warms up. Make sure that the covering is 2 to 3 feet tall so that the plants have room to grow.
If you do not start your okra plants early, wait until there is stable warm weather. You can plant okra in the garden when the soil has warmed to 65° to 70°F.
Plant okra in fertile, well-drained soil in full light about ½ to 1 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart. You can soak the seeds overnight in tepid water to help speed up germination.
If you are planting okra transplants, be sure to space them 1 to 2 feet apart to give them ample room to grow.
Okra plants are tall, so be sure to space out the rows 3 to 4 feet apart.
CARE
Eliminate weeds when the plants are young, then mulch heavily to prevent more weeds from growing. Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 8 inches high. You should also side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (½ pound per 25 feet of row). You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 10 to 18 inches apart.
Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months; 1 inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region.
After the first harvest, remove the lower leaves to help speed up production.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Corn earworms
Stinkbugs
Fusarium wilt
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
FLOWER COLOR: WhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: Summer
Okra is traditionally a southern U.S. plant that thrives in warm weather. Here’s how to grow okra plants in your own garden!
Okra is easy to grow and use and looks great throughout the growing season due to its beautiful flowers. It’s also rich in vitamin A and low in calories, which makes it a great addition to your diet.
PLANTING
You can start okra seeds indoors in peat pots under full light 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date.
You can also start okra directly in your garden 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date as long as you cover the plants with a cold frame or grow tunnel until the weather warms up. Make sure that the covering is 2 to 3 feet tall so that the plants have room to grow.
If you do not start your okra plants early, wait until there is stable warm weather. You can plant okra in the garden when the soil has warmed to 65° to 70°F.
Plant okra in fertile, well-drained soil in full light about ½ to 1 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart. You can soak the seeds overnight in tepid water to help speed up germination.
If you are planting okra transplants, be sure to space them 1 to 2 feet apart to give them ample room to grow.
Okra plants are tall, so be sure to space out the rows 3 to 4 feet apart.
CARE
Eliminate weeds when the plants are young, then mulch heavily to prevent more weeds from growing. Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 8 inches high. You should also side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (½ pound per 25 feet of row). You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 10 to 18 inches apart.
Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months; 1 inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region.
After the first harvest, remove the lower leaves to help speed up production.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Corn earworms
Stinkbugs
Fusarium wilt
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Lactuca sativa
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Garden lettuce is far superior—in both taste and vitamin A content—to supermarket brands. Here’s how grow this cool-season crop—best planted in the spring and fall.
Lettuce grows well in the spring and fall in most regions. Lettuce seedlings will even tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 45° F and 65° F are ideal.
Because lettuce grows quickly, the best approach is to plant a small amount at a time, staggering your plantings.
PLANTING
Before you plant your lettuce seeds, make sure the soil is prepared. It should be loose and drain well so it’s moist without staying soggy. To keep the soil fertile, feed it with organic matter about one week before you seed or transplant. Since the seed is so small, a well-tilled seedbed is essential. Large clods will reduce germination.
Direct sowing is recommended as soon as the ground can be worked. Plant seeds ½ inch deep. Snow won’t hurt them, but a desiccating cold wind will.
If you want an earlier crop, however, you may start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost date for an earlier crop. Harden off seedlings for about one week, and transplant outside between 2 weeks before and 2 weeks after last spring frost.
Seed may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting. When broadcasting, you’ll need to “thin” for the proper spacing.
Leaf lettuce: Plant 4 inches apart.
Cos and loose-headed types: Plant 8 inches apart.
Firm-headed types: Plant 16 inches apart.
Your rows of plants should be 12 to 15 inches across.
Cover the seeds with ¼ to ½ inch of soil.
Water thoroughly at time of transplant.
Consider planting rows of chives or garlic between your lettuce to control aphids. They act as “barrier plants” for the lettuce.
If you’d like to grow your lettuce indoors, check out these tips for growing lettuce indoors.
CARE
You should be able to sow additional seeds every two weeks for a continuous harvest throughout the growing season.
Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting. Lettuce prefers soil that is high in humus, with plenty of compost and a steady supply of nitrogen to keep if growing fast. Use organic alfalfa meal or a slow-release fertilizer.
To plant a fall crop, create cool soil in August by moistening the ground and covering it with a bale of straw. A week later, the soil under the bale will be about 10° F (6° C) cooler than the rest of the garden. Sow a three-foot row of lettuce seeds every couple of weeks—just rotate the straw bale around the garden.
Make sure soil remains moist but is well drained.
An organic mulch will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil temperatures cool throughout the warmer months.
Lettuce will tell you when it needs water. Just look at it. If the leaves are wilting, sprinkle them anytime—even in the heat of the day—to cool them off and slow down the transpiration rate.
Weed by hand if necessary, but be careful of plant roots: They are shallow.
Planning your garden so that lettuce will be in the shade of taller plants, such as tomatoes or sweet corn, may reduce bolting in the heat of the summer.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Earwigs
Cutworms
White Mold
Woodchucks
Rabbits
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Garden lettuce is far superior—in both taste and vitamin A content—to supermarket brands. Here’s how grow this cool-season crop—best planted in the spring and fall.
Lettuce grows well in the spring and fall in most regions. Lettuce seedlings will even tolerate a light frost. Temperatures between 45° F and 65° F are ideal.
Because lettuce grows quickly, the best approach is to plant a small amount at a time, staggering your plantings.
PLANTING
Before you plant your lettuce seeds, make sure the soil is prepared. It should be loose and drain well so it’s moist without staying soggy. To keep the soil fertile, feed it with organic matter about one week before you seed or transplant. Since the seed is so small, a well-tilled seedbed is essential. Large clods will reduce germination.
Direct sowing is recommended as soon as the ground can be worked. Plant seeds ½ inch deep. Snow won’t hurt them, but a desiccating cold wind will.
If you want an earlier crop, however, you may start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost date for an earlier crop. Harden off seedlings for about one week, and transplant outside between 2 weeks before and 2 weeks after last spring frost.
Seed may be sown in single rows or broadcast for wide row planting. When broadcasting, you’ll need to “thin” for the proper spacing.
Leaf lettuce: Plant 4 inches apart.
Cos and loose-headed types: Plant 8 inches apart.
Firm-headed types: Plant 16 inches apart.
Your rows of plants should be 12 to 15 inches across.
Cover the seeds with ¼ to ½ inch of soil.
Water thoroughly at time of transplant.
Consider planting rows of chives or garlic between your lettuce to control aphids. They act as “barrier plants” for the lettuce.
If you’d like to grow your lettuce indoors, check out these tips for growing lettuce indoors.
CARE
You should be able to sow additional seeds every two weeks for a continuous harvest throughout the growing season.
Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting. Lettuce prefers soil that is high in humus, with plenty of compost and a steady supply of nitrogen to keep if growing fast. Use organic alfalfa meal or a slow-release fertilizer.
To plant a fall crop, create cool soil in August by moistening the ground and covering it with a bale of straw. A week later, the soil under the bale will be about 10° F (6° C) cooler than the rest of the garden. Sow a three-foot row of lettuce seeds every couple of weeks—just rotate the straw bale around the garden.
Make sure soil remains moist but is well drained.
An organic mulch will help conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep soil temperatures cool throughout the warmer months.
Lettuce will tell you when it needs water. Just look at it. If the leaves are wilting, sprinkle them anytime—even in the heat of the day—to cool them off and slow down the transpiration rate.
Weed by hand if necessary, but be careful of plant roots: They are shallow.
Planning your garden so that lettuce will be in the shade of taller plants, such as tomatoes or sweet corn, may reduce bolting in the heat of the summer.
PESTS/DISEASES
Aphids
Earwigs
Cutworms
White Mold
Woodchucks
Rabbits
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Allium sativum
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Garlic is easy to grow and produces numerous bulbs after a long growing season. Plus, it’s frost tolerant! Here’s how to grow garlic in your garden.
Beyond its intense flavor and culinary uses, “the stinking rose” is good in the garden as an insect repellent and has been used for centuries as a home remedy.
PLANTING
Garlic can be planted in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked, but fall planting is recommended for most gardeners. Plant in the fall and you’ll find that your bulbs are bigger and more flavorful when you harvest the next summer.
In areas that get a hard frost, plant garlic 6 to 8 weeks before that frost date. In southern areas, February or March is a better time to plant.
Break apart cloves from bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery husk on each individual clove.
Plant cloves about one month before the ground freezes.
Do not plant cloves from the grocery store. They may be unsuited varieties for your area, and most are treated to make their shelf life longer, making them harder to grow. Instead, get cloves from a mail order seed company or a local nursery.
Ensure soil is well-drained with plenty of organic matter. Select a sunny spot.
Place cloves 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (the wide root side facing down and pointed end facing up).
In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the ground.
CARE
Northern gardeners should mulch heavily with straw for overwintering.
Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. (Young shoots can’t survive in temps below 20°F on their own. Keep them under cover.)
Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring. These may decrease bulb size.
Weeds should not be a problem until the spring. Weed as needed.
Garlic requires adequate levels of nitrogen. Fertilize accordingly, especially if you see yellowing leaves.
Water every 3 to 5 days during bulbing (mid-May through June).
A note on garlic scapes: Some folks love cooking the scapes (the tops of hardneck garlic). Whether you trim the scapes or let them keep growing is your preference. We like to stir fry scapes the way we cook green beans—similar, with a spicy kick!
PESTS/DISEASES
Garlic has very few problems with pests in the garden (in fact, its a natural pest repellent!), and also very few problems with the diseases that plague other veggies. White Rot is one concern, but you should also keep an eye out for the same pests that plague onions.
White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Garlic is easy to grow and produces numerous bulbs after a long growing season. Plus, it’s frost tolerant! Here’s how to grow garlic in your garden.
Beyond its intense flavor and culinary uses, “the stinking rose” is good in the garden as an insect repellent and has been used for centuries as a home remedy.
PLANTING
Garlic can be planted in the spring as soon as the ground can be worked, but fall planting is recommended for most gardeners. Plant in the fall and you’ll find that your bulbs are bigger and more flavorful when you harvest the next summer.
In areas that get a hard frost, plant garlic 6 to 8 weeks before that frost date. In southern areas, February or March is a better time to plant.
Break apart cloves from bulb a few days before planting, but keep the papery husk on each individual clove.
Plant cloves about one month before the ground freezes.
Do not plant cloves from the grocery store. They may be unsuited varieties for your area, and most are treated to make their shelf life longer, making them harder to grow. Instead, get cloves from a mail order seed company or a local nursery.
Ensure soil is well-drained with plenty of organic matter. Select a sunny spot.
Place cloves 4 inches apart and 2 inches deep, in their upright position (the wide root side facing down and pointed end facing up).
In the spring, as warmer temperatures come, shoots will emerge through the ground.
CARE
Northern gardeners should mulch heavily with straw for overwintering.
Mulch should be removed in the spring after the threat of frost has passed. (Young shoots can’t survive in temps below 20°F on their own. Keep them under cover.)
Cut off any flower shoots that emerge in spring. These may decrease bulb size.
Weeds should not be a problem until the spring. Weed as needed.
Garlic requires adequate levels of nitrogen. Fertilize accordingly, especially if you see yellowing leaves.
Water every 3 to 5 days during bulbing (mid-May through June).
A note on garlic scapes: Some folks love cooking the scapes (the tops of hardneck garlic). Whether you trim the scapes or let them keep growing is your preference. We like to stir fry scapes the way we cook green beans—similar, with a spicy kick!
PESTS/DISEASES
Garlic has very few problems with pests in the garden (in fact, its a natural pest repellent!), and also very few problems with the diseases that plague other veggies. White Rot is one concern, but you should also keep an eye out for the same pests that plague onions.
White Rot is a fungus that may attack garlic in cool weather. Not much can be done to control or prevent that problem except rotating your crops and cleaning up the area after harvesting. The spores can live in the soil for many years. The fungus affects the base of the leaves and roots.
0
2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucumis Sativus
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow quickly as long as they receive consistent watering. Most varieties will grow in any amount of space, thanks to the plant’s ability to climb. Of course, these prolific veggies are perfect for pickling!
There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush cucumbers. The most common varieties grow on vigorous vines shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties grow up a trellis or fence. They will be cleaner—versus those that grow atop soil—often more prolific, and easier to pick.
Bush cucumbers are, however, nicely suited to containers and small gardens. Make successive plantings (every two weeks for continued harvests). In already-warm summer soil, cucumbers will grow quickly and ripen in about six weeks!
If you’re interested in making pickles, we recommend several prolific varieties below that are bred especially for pickling, such as heirloom ‘Boston Pickling’. For crispy pickles, be sure to prepare them within a few hours of harvesting!
PLANTING
Cucumber plants are seeded or transplanted outside in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after last frost date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost damage; the soil must be at least 70ºF for germination. Do not plant outside too soon!
Before you plant outside, select a site with full sun.
Soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline with a pH of 7.0.
Cucumbers require fertile soil. Mix in compost and/or aged manure before planting to a depth of 2 inches and work into the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. Make sure that soil is moist and well-drained, not soggy.
Improve clay soil by adding organic matter. Improve dense, heavy soil by adding peat, compost or rotted manure. (Get a soil test if you are unsure of your soil type; contact your local county cooperative extension.) Light, sandy soils are preferred for northern gardens, as they warm quickly in the spring.
Plant seedlings one inch deep and about 36 to 60 inches apart, depending on variety. For vines trained on a trellis, space plants 1 foot apart.
For an early crop, start cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you transplant them in the ground. They like bottom heat of about 70ºF (21ºC). If you don’t have a heat mat, put the seeds flat on top of the refrigerator or perch a few on top of the water heater.
If you live in the cooler climates, you can help warm the soil by covering the hill or row with black plastic.
Once the ground is warm, mulch with pine straw, chopped leaves, or another organic mulch to keep pests at bay, and also keep bush types off the ground to avoid disease.
A trellis is a good idea if you want the vine to climb, or if you have limited space. Trellising also protects the fruit from damage from lying on the moist ground.
CARE
The main plant care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need one inch of water per week (more if temperatures are sky high). Put your finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit.
Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t get leaf diseases which will ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry.
Mulch to hold in soil moisture.
Cover seeds with netting or a berry basket if you have pests; this will keep them from digging out the seeds.
When seedlings emerge, begin to water frequently, and increase to a gallon per week after fruit forms.
When seedlings reach 4 inches tall, thin plants so that they are 1½ feet apart.
If you’ve worked organic matter into the soil before planting, you may only need to side-dress your plants with compost or well-rotted manure.
If you wish, use a liquid fertilizer from your garden store such as vegetable plant food which is low nitrogen/high potassium and phosphorus formula. Apply at planting, 1 week after bloom, and every 3 weeks, directly to the soil around the plants. Or, you can work a granular fertilizer into the soil. Do not over-fertilize or the fruits will get stunted.
If you have limited space or would prefer vertical vines, set up trellises early to avoid damage to seedlings and vines.
Spray vines with sugar water to attract bees and set more fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually a disease. There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers were all male. Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time. This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become the fruit.)
Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. To rest assured, you could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and transfer it to the center of the female flower.)
Remember, gynoecious hybrids require pollinator plants.
Squash bugs may attack seedlings.
Aphids are always a nuisance for any vegetable plant but easily managed.
Powdery mildew can be a problem if the leaves get wet (water at the soil level). Apply fungicides at the first sign of its presence.
Cucumber Beetles may attack the vines and can cause disease.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow quickly as long as they receive consistent watering. Most varieties will grow in any amount of space, thanks to the plant’s ability to climb. Of course, these prolific veggies are perfect for pickling!
There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush cucumbers. The most common varieties grow on vigorous vines shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties grow up a trellis or fence. They will be cleaner—versus those that grow atop soil—often more prolific, and easier to pick.
Bush cucumbers are, however, nicely suited to containers and small gardens. Make successive plantings (every two weeks for continued harvests). In already-warm summer soil, cucumbers will grow quickly and ripen in about six weeks!
If you’re interested in making pickles, we recommend several prolific varieties below that are bred especially for pickling, such as heirloom ‘Boston Pickling’. For crispy pickles, be sure to prepare them within a few hours of harvesting!
PLANTING
Cucumber plants are seeded or transplanted outside in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after last frost date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost damage; the soil must be at least 70ºF for germination. Do not plant outside too soon!
Before you plant outside, select a site with full sun.
Soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline with a pH of 7.0.
Cucumbers require fertile soil. Mix in compost and/or aged manure before planting to a depth of 2 inches and work into the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. Make sure that soil is moist and well-drained, not soggy.
Improve clay soil by adding organic matter. Improve dense, heavy soil by adding peat, compost or rotted manure. (Get a soil test if you are unsure of your soil type; contact your local county cooperative extension.) Light, sandy soils are preferred for northern gardens, as they warm quickly in the spring.
Plant seedlings one inch deep and about 36 to 60 inches apart, depending on variety. For vines trained on a trellis, space plants 1 foot apart.
For an early crop, start cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you transplant them in the ground. They like bottom heat of about 70ºF (21ºC). If you don’t have a heat mat, put the seeds flat on top of the refrigerator or perch a few on top of the water heater.
If you live in the cooler climates, you can help warm the soil by covering the hill or row with black plastic.
Once the ground is warm, mulch with pine straw, chopped leaves, or another organic mulch to keep pests at bay, and also keep bush types off the ground to avoid disease.
A trellis is a good idea if you want the vine to climb, or if you have limited space. Trellising also protects the fruit from damage from lying on the moist ground.
CARE
The main plant care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need one inch of water per week (more if temperatures are sky high). Put your finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit.
Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t get leaf diseases which will ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry.
Mulch to hold in soil moisture.
Cover seeds with netting or a berry basket if you have pests; this will keep them from digging out the seeds.
When seedlings emerge, begin to water frequently, and increase to a gallon per week after fruit forms.
When seedlings reach 4 inches tall, thin plants so that they are 1½ feet apart.
If you’ve worked organic matter into the soil before planting, you may only need to side-dress your plants with compost or well-rotted manure.
If you wish, use a liquid fertilizer from your garden store such as vegetable plant food which is low nitrogen/high potassium and phosphorus formula. Apply at planting, 1 week after bloom, and every 3 weeks, directly to the soil around the plants. Or, you can work a granular fertilizer into the soil. Do not over-fertilize or the fruits will get stunted.
If you have limited space or would prefer vertical vines, set up trellises early to avoid damage to seedlings and vines.
Spray vines with sugar water to attract bees and set more fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually a disease. There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers were all male. Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time. This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become the fruit.)
Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. To rest assured, you could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and transfer it to the center of the female flower.)
Remember, gynoecious hybrids require pollinator plants.
Squash bugs may attack seedlings.
Aphids are always a nuisance for any vegetable plant but easily managed.
Powdery mildew can be a problem if the leaves get wet (water at the soil level). Apply fungicides at the first sign of its presence.
Cucumber Beetles may attack the vines and can cause disease.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Apium graveolens
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Neutral
Celery is a long-season crop that can be tricky to grow—some might say, the trickiest of all. Here’s how to grow celery in your garden.
Celery likes fertile soil, cool temperatures, and constant moisture. It will not tolerate heat and can be hard to transplant. Summer crops in the north and winter crops in the south make celery a year-round producer. All the hard work is worth it when you finally get to harvest crunchy, green stalks!
PLANTING
Celery seeds should always be started indoors for the best success rate, 8 to 10 weeks before the average last frost date for your area. (See local frost dates.)
For summer gardeners, a late summer direct sowing is possible. Be sure that temps will stay between 55 and 70ºF throughout the growing period.
The National Gardening Association recommends soaking seeds in warm water overnight prior to planting, to reduce germination time.
Work organic fertilizer or compost into the soil prior to planting. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Harden off seedlings before transplanting by reducing water slightly, and keeping them outdoors for a couple hours a day.
Transplant seedlings 10 to 12 inches apart, direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep. These will need to be thinned to 12 inches apart when they reach about six inches high.
Mulch and water directly after planting.
CARE
Celery is a heavy feeder and requires lots of water. Make sure to provide plenty of water during the entire growing season, especially during hot, dry weather.
If celery does not get enough water, the stalks will be dry and small.
Add plenty of compost and mulch around the plants to retain moisture.
Fertilize regularly. Add mulch as needed, to help retain soil moisture and add nutrients.
Tie growing celery stalks together to keep them from sprawling.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cutworms
Aphids
Whiteflies
Bolting
Mosaic Virus
Fusarium Wilt
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Any
SOIL PH: Neutral
Celery is a long-season crop that can be tricky to grow—some might say, the trickiest of all. Here’s how to grow celery in your garden.
Celery likes fertile soil, cool temperatures, and constant moisture. It will not tolerate heat and can be hard to transplant. Summer crops in the north and winter crops in the south make celery a year-round producer. All the hard work is worth it when you finally get to harvest crunchy, green stalks!
PLANTING
Celery seeds should always be started indoors for the best success rate, 8 to 10 weeks before the average last frost date for your area. (See local frost dates.)
For summer gardeners, a late summer direct sowing is possible. Be sure that temps will stay between 55 and 70ºF throughout the growing period.
The National Gardening Association recommends soaking seeds in warm water overnight prior to planting, to reduce germination time.
Work organic fertilizer or compost into the soil prior to planting. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Harden off seedlings before transplanting by reducing water slightly, and keeping them outdoors for a couple hours a day.
Transplant seedlings 10 to 12 inches apart, direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep. These will need to be thinned to 12 inches apart when they reach about six inches high.
Mulch and water directly after planting.
CARE
Celery is a heavy feeder and requires lots of water. Make sure to provide plenty of water during the entire growing season, especially during hot, dry weather.
If celery does not get enough water, the stalks will be dry and small.
Add plenty of compost and mulch around the plants to retain moisture.
Fertilize regularly. Add mulch as needed, to help retain soil moisture and add nutrients.
Tie growing celery stalks together to keep them from sprawling.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cutworms
Aphids
Whiteflies
Bolting
Mosaic Virus
Fusarium Wilt
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Daucus carota
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Carrots are a popular root vegetable that’s easy to grow as long as it’s planted in loose, sandy soil. Most varieties of carrots are resistant to pests and diseases, and they are also a good late season crop that can tolerate frost.
Carrots’ root is rich in sugar, and a great source of vitamins and carotene. Not all carrots are orange; varieties vary in color from purple to white!
If there is a challenge to growing carrots, it’s just having soil that’s not too heavy—or, you’ll end up with stunted round balls! Most carrot varieties need deep, loose soil.
Carrots are grown from seed and take about four months to mature.
PLANTING
Plan to plant seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date.
Carrots are ideally grown in full sunlight, but can tolerate a moderate amount of shade.
Plant carrot seeds 3 to 4 inches apart in rows. Rows should be at least a foot apart.
Make sure your soil is free of stones; carrots need deeply tilled soil that they can push through.
Have you ever seen a carrot that has grown “legs” or forked? Fresh manure, or even recently applied rotted manure, can cause carrots to fork and send out little side roots. Don’t use it before you plant your seeds.
CARE
Gently mulch to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from the roots.
Soil should be well drained and loose to prevent forking and stunting of the root growth.
Once plants are an inch tall, thin so they stand 3 inches apart. Snip them with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the roots of remaining plants.
Water at least one inch per week.
Weed diligently.
Fertilize 5-6 weeks after sowing.
Carrots taste much better after a couple of frosts. Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot rows with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.
PESTS/DISEASES
Wireworms
Flea Beetles
Aster Yellow Disease will cause shortened and discolored carrot tops and hairy roots. This disease is spread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This disease has the ability to overwinter.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Carrots are a popular root vegetable that’s easy to grow as long as it’s planted in loose, sandy soil. Most varieties of carrots are resistant to pests and diseases, and they are also a good late season crop that can tolerate frost.
Carrots’ root is rich in sugar, and a great source of vitamins and carotene. Not all carrots are orange; varieties vary in color from purple to white!
If there is a challenge to growing carrots, it’s just having soil that’s not too heavy—or, you’ll end up with stunted round balls! Most carrot varieties need deep, loose soil.
Carrots are grown from seed and take about four months to mature.
PLANTING
Plan to plant seeds outdoors 3 to 5 weeks before the last spring frost date.
Carrots are ideally grown in full sunlight, but can tolerate a moderate amount of shade.
Plant carrot seeds 3 to 4 inches apart in rows. Rows should be at least a foot apart.
Make sure your soil is free of stones; carrots need deeply tilled soil that they can push through.
Have you ever seen a carrot that has grown “legs” or forked? Fresh manure, or even recently applied rotted manure, can cause carrots to fork and send out little side roots. Don’t use it before you plant your seeds.
CARE
Gently mulch to retain moisture, speed germination, and block the sun from the roots.
Soil should be well drained and loose to prevent forking and stunting of the root growth.
Once plants are an inch tall, thin so they stand 3 inches apart. Snip them with scissors instead of pulling them out to prevent damage to the roots of remaining plants.
Water at least one inch per week.
Weed diligently.
Fertilize 5-6 weeks after sowing.
Carrots taste much better after a couple of frosts. Following the first hard frost in the fall, cover carrot rows with an 18-inch layer of shredded leaves to preserve them for harvesting later.
PESTS/DISEASES
Wireworms
Flea Beetles
Aster Yellow Disease will cause shortened and discolored carrot tops and hairy roots. This disease is spread by pests as they feed from plant to plant. Keep weeds down and invest in a control plan for pests such as leafhoppers. This disease has the ability to overwinter.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica oleracea var. capitata
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Cabbage is a hardy, leafy vegetable full of vitamins. It can be difficult to grow; it only likes cool temperatures and it can be a magnet for some types of garden pests. By planning your growing season and providing diligent care, you may have two successful crops in one year, in both spring and fall. Many varieties are available to suit both your growing conditions and taste preferences.
PLANTING
Start cabbage seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost.
Harden off plants over the course of a week. To prepare soil, till in aged manure or compost.
Transplant outdoors 2 to 3 weeks before the last expected frost date. Choose a cloudy afternoon.
Plant 12 to 24 inches apart in rows, depending on size of head desired. The closer you plant, the smaller the heads.
Mulch thickly to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Practice crop rotation with cabbage year to year to avoid a buildup of soil borne diseases.
Although cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower are closely related, and require similar nutrients, it’s best not to plant them together. They are all heavy feeders, depleting the soil faster of required nutrients; plus, they will attract the same pests and diseases. For cabbage, also avoid proximity to strawberries and tomatoes.
Cabbage can be grown near beans and cucumbers.
CARE
When transplants reach 5 inches tall, thin to make sure they are still the desired length apart. (The plants you remove can be transplanted elsewhere in your garden.)
Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting.
Keep soil moist with mulch and water 2 inches per week.
PESTS/DISEASES
Imported Cabbageworms: Dill protects all members of the cabbage family by attracting beneficial wasps that kill cabbageworms and other pests.
Aphids
Cabbage Root Maggots
Flea Beetles
Cutworms
Splitting
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
SOIL PH: Neutral
Cabbage is a hardy, leafy vegetable full of vitamins. It can be difficult to grow; it only likes cool temperatures and it can be a magnet for some types of garden pests. By planning your growing season and providing diligent care, you may have two successful crops in one year, in both spring and fall. Many varieties are available to suit both your growing conditions and taste preferences.
PLANTING
Start cabbage seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last spring frost.
Harden off plants over the course of a week. To prepare soil, till in aged manure or compost.
Transplant outdoors 2 to 3 weeks before the last expected frost date. Choose a cloudy afternoon.
Plant 12 to 24 inches apart in rows, depending on size of head desired. The closer you plant, the smaller the heads.
Mulch thickly to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Practice crop rotation with cabbage year to year to avoid a buildup of soil borne diseases.
Although cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower are closely related, and require similar nutrients, it’s best not to plant them together. They are all heavy feeders, depleting the soil faster of required nutrients; plus, they will attract the same pests and diseases. For cabbage, also avoid proximity to strawberries and tomatoes.
Cabbage can be grown near beans and cucumbers.
CARE
When transplants reach 5 inches tall, thin to make sure they are still the desired length apart. (The plants you remove can be transplanted elsewhere in your garden.)
Fertilize 3 weeks after transplanting.
Keep soil moist with mulch and water 2 inches per week.
PESTS/DISEASES
Imported Cabbageworms: Dill protects all members of the cabbage family by attracting beneficial wasps that kill cabbageworms and other pests.
Aphids
Cabbage Root Maggots
Flea Beetles
Cutworms
Splitting
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Brassica oleracea
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Broccoli is a cool-season crop that, like spinach, can be grown in the spring or fall. Here’s how to grow broccoli in your garden.
With broccoli, you may even be able to get a continual harvest throughout the summer and fall if you practice succession gardening. A member of the cabbage family, broccoli is rich in vitamins.
PLANTING
Broccoli can germinate in soil with temperatures as low as 40ºF.
Broccoli requires full sun and moist, fertile soil that’s slightly acidic. Work in 2 to 4 inches of rich compost or a thin layer of manure before planting.For spring plantings, seed or set transplants 2 to 3 weeks before last spring frost date. (See local frost dates.) If you transplant, assume 10 less days for growth or the “days to maturity” on the seed packet.
For fall plantings, seed 85 to 100 days before your average first fall frost. If you live in a warm climate, a fall planting is best, as broccoli thrives in cool weather. Plant seeds in mid- to late-summer in most places.
Plant seeds ½ inch deep, or set transplants slightly deeper than they were grown originally.
Within a row, space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart with 36 inches between each row.
Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart, depending on the side heads you want to harvest.
If you overseed, you will need to thin seedlings to 12 inches apart to give room for the broccoli to grow.
CARE
Fertilize three weeks after transplanting.
Provide consistent soil moisture with regular watering, especially in drought conditions. Some varieties of broccoli are heat tolerant, but all need moisture.
Do not get developing heads wet when watering.
Roots are very shallow, do not cultivate. Suffocate weeds with mulch.
Mulch will also help to keep soil temperatures down.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea Beetles
Aphids: Curling leaves may mean that the plant’s sap is being sucked by insects. Apply soapy water to all sides of leaves whenever you see aphids.
Downy mildew: Yellow patches on leaves are usually caused by moist weather. Keep leaves as dry as possible with good air circulation. Buy resistant varieties.
Cabbage loopers: Small holes on the leaves between the veins mean small green caterpillars are present. Look at the undersides of the leaves. Hand pick if the problem is small or control with Bacillus thuringiensis. Use a floating row cover just after planting through harvest to prevent caterpillars.
Cabbageworms and other worm pests: Treat same as loopers.
Cabbage root maggots
Whiteflies
Nitrogen deficiency: If the bottom leaves turn yellow and the problem continues toward the top of the plant, the plants need a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer or blood meal. Blood meal is a quick nitrogen fix for yellowing leaves.
Clubroot: Quickly wilting plants may be due to this fungus in the soil. The entire plant, including all roots and root tendrils, must be gently dug up and removed. If the roots are gnarled and misshapen, then clubroot is the problem. Act quickly to remove the plants so that the fungus doesn’t continue to live in the soil. Do not compost the plants. Raise the pH of your soil to above 7.2. You may need to sterilize your soil, too.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Broccoli is a cool-season crop that, like spinach, can be grown in the spring or fall. Here’s how to grow broccoli in your garden.
With broccoli, you may even be able to get a continual harvest throughout the summer and fall if you practice succession gardening. A member of the cabbage family, broccoli is rich in vitamins.
PLANTING
Broccoli can germinate in soil with temperatures as low as 40ºF.
Broccoli requires full sun and moist, fertile soil that’s slightly acidic. Work in 2 to 4 inches of rich compost or a thin layer of manure before planting.For spring plantings, seed or set transplants 2 to 3 weeks before last spring frost date. (See local frost dates.) If you transplant, assume 10 less days for growth or the “days to maturity” on the seed packet.
For fall plantings, seed 85 to 100 days before your average first fall frost. If you live in a warm climate, a fall planting is best, as broccoli thrives in cool weather. Plant seeds in mid- to late-summer in most places.
Plant seeds ½ inch deep, or set transplants slightly deeper than they were grown originally.
Within a row, space your plants 12 to 24 inches apart with 36 inches between each row.
Space plants 12 to 24 inches apart, depending on the side heads you want to harvest.
If you overseed, you will need to thin seedlings to 12 inches apart to give room for the broccoli to grow.
CARE
Fertilize three weeks after transplanting.
Provide consistent soil moisture with regular watering, especially in drought conditions. Some varieties of broccoli are heat tolerant, but all need moisture.
Do not get developing heads wet when watering.
Roots are very shallow, do not cultivate. Suffocate weeds with mulch.
Mulch will also help to keep soil temperatures down.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea Beetles
Aphids: Curling leaves may mean that the plant’s sap is being sucked by insects. Apply soapy water to all sides of leaves whenever you see aphids.
Downy mildew: Yellow patches on leaves are usually caused by moist weather. Keep leaves as dry as possible with good air circulation. Buy resistant varieties.
Cabbage loopers: Small holes on the leaves between the veins mean small green caterpillars are present. Look at the undersides of the leaves. Hand pick if the problem is small or control with Bacillus thuringiensis. Use a floating row cover just after planting through harvest to prevent caterpillars.
Cabbageworms and other worm pests: Treat same as loopers.
Cabbage root maggots
Whiteflies
Nitrogen deficiency: If the bottom leaves turn yellow and the problem continues toward the top of the plant, the plants need a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer or blood meal. Blood meal is a quick nitrogen fix for yellowing leaves.
Clubroot: Quickly wilting plants may be due to this fungus in the soil. The entire plant, including all roots and root tendrils, must be gently dug up and removed. If the roots are gnarled and misshapen, then clubroot is the problem. Act quickly to remove the plants so that the fungus doesn’t continue to live in the soil. Do not compost the plants. Raise the pH of your soil to above 7.2. You may need to sterilize your soil, too.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Asparagus officinalis
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Asparagus is a perennial bulb and stem vegetable that greets us every spring. Here’s how to grow asparagus in your garden.
Asparagus plants may take 2 to 3 years to truly get started and produce, so patience is needed! But then again, the plant can be productive up to 20 years, so we think it’s worth the wait.
Asparagus has male and female plants, with the female plants producing berries. Regions with cool winters are best for this cool-season crop.
PLANTING
Asparagus is planted in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. The plant is grown from “crowns” (1-year-old plants).
Eliminate all weeds from the bed, digging it over and working in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost, manure or soil mix. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Dig trenches of about 6 inches wide and 6 to 12 inches deep. Some experts believe shallow trenches of 6 inches are best.
Asparagus does not like to have its feet “wet,” so be sure your bed has good drainage. For that reason, raised beds can be a good place to plant asparagus. Learn how to make a raised garden bed.
Create a mound in the trench and plant the crowns 15 to 18 inches apart, spreading the roots over the ridge.
Cover the roots and crowns with soil 2 inches deep and water thoroughly.
As the stems grow, fill in the rest of the trench with soil, leaving 3 to 4 inches of the stem exposed.
For more planting tips, see our page on growing asparagus from seed.
CARE
When the trench is filled, add a 4 to 8 inch layer of mulch and water regularly.
Do not harvest the spears in the first year, but cut down dead foliage in late fall and side-dress with compost.
During the second year, keep the bed thickly mulched, side-dress in spring and early fall, and cut down dead foliage in late fall.
PESTS/DISEASES
Asparagus beetles
Cutworms
Slugs
Crown rot
Rust
Asparagus is considered a deer-resistant plant, so plant it near more susceptible crops.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Asparagus is a perennial bulb and stem vegetable that greets us every spring. Here’s how to grow asparagus in your garden.
Asparagus plants may take 2 to 3 years to truly get started and produce, so patience is needed! But then again, the plant can be productive up to 20 years, so we think it’s worth the wait.
Asparagus has male and female plants, with the female plants producing berries. Regions with cool winters are best for this cool-season crop.
PLANTING
Asparagus is planted in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. The plant is grown from “crowns” (1-year-old plants).
Eliminate all weeds from the bed, digging it over and working in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost, manure or soil mix. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
Dig trenches of about 6 inches wide and 6 to 12 inches deep. Some experts believe shallow trenches of 6 inches are best.
Asparagus does not like to have its feet “wet,” so be sure your bed has good drainage. For that reason, raised beds can be a good place to plant asparagus. Learn how to make a raised garden bed.
Create a mound in the trench and plant the crowns 15 to 18 inches apart, spreading the roots over the ridge.
Cover the roots and crowns with soil 2 inches deep and water thoroughly.
As the stems grow, fill in the rest of the trench with soil, leaving 3 to 4 inches of the stem exposed.
For more planting tips, see our page on growing asparagus from seed.
CARE
When the trench is filled, add a 4 to 8 inch layer of mulch and water regularly.
Do not harvest the spears in the first year, but cut down dead foliage in late fall and side-dress with compost.
During the second year, keep the bed thickly mulched, side-dress in spring and early fall, and cut down dead foliage in late fall.
PESTS/DISEASES
Asparagus beetles
Cutworms
Slugs
Crown rot
Rust
Asparagus is considered a deer-resistant plant, so plant it near more susceptible crops.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Spathiphyllum
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Shade
FLOWER COLOR: White
Peace lilies are one of the most common houseplants because they are so easy to grow. Most household varieties grow up to 16 inches tall, but larger cultivars can reach 6 feet in height.
Peace lilies produce white flowers in the early summer and continue to bloom throughout the year.
Note: Keep peace lilies out of the reach of small children and pets, as all parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate, an irritant and toxin.
PLANTING
Plant with an all-purpose potting soil and keep it lightly moist throughout the year.
Repotting annually in the spring is good for the lily because it will need refreshed soil.
CARE
Keep the soil moist at all times, but do not overwater.
During the winter, fertilize every 6 weeks or so.
Peace lilies enjoy a warmer environment, so keep them in temperatures above 60°F.
Keep out of direct sunlight, but in a well-lit area.
If no flowers are appearing, the plant may not be getting enough light.
PESTS/DISEASES
Brown leaf tips are common with excessive light, over fertilization, or lack of water and/or low humidity. Keeping the plant on a tray of moistened gravel can help increase humidity.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Shade
FLOWER COLOR: White
Peace lilies are one of the most common houseplants because they are so easy to grow. Most household varieties grow up to 16 inches tall, but larger cultivars can reach 6 feet in height.
Peace lilies produce white flowers in the early summer and continue to bloom throughout the year.
Note: Keep peace lilies out of the reach of small children and pets, as all parts of the plant contain calcium oxalate, an irritant and toxin.
PLANTING
Plant with an all-purpose potting soil and keep it lightly moist throughout the year.
Repotting annually in the spring is good for the lily because it will need refreshed soil.
CARE
Keep the soil moist at all times, but do not overwater.
During the winter, fertilize every 6 weeks or so.
Peace lilies enjoy a warmer environment, so keep them in temperatures above 60°F.
Keep out of direct sunlight, but in a well-lit area.
If no flowers are appearing, the plant may not be getting enough light.
PESTS/DISEASES
Brown leaf tips are common with excessive light, over fertilization, or lack of water and/or low humidity. Keeping the plant on a tray of moistened gravel can help increase humidity.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Jasminum Polyanthum
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
FLOWER COLOR: WhiteYellow
Jasmine is known for its intensely fragrant blossoms that flower all year to brighten your home. The starry flowers grow in lovely clusters of bright white (or yellow). Though jasmine is a vine grown outdoors, the plant grows easily indoors where vines aren’t handy.
PLANTING
Grow in a pot or hanging basket with any good potting or all-purpose soil.
CARE
During the spring and summer months Jasmine needs full sunlight.
In the winter months Jasmine still needs light, but it doesn’t have to be direct.
Soil should be moist and well-drained, but do not overwater.
During the summer allow the soil to be moist and let it dry between waterings. Water less in the fall. In the winter and spring months keep the plant slightly dry.
Prune after blooming season (which is spring) to shape the plant.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root rot and mealybugs are common.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
FLOWER COLOR: WhiteYellow
Jasmine is known for its intensely fragrant blossoms that flower all year to brighten your home. The starry flowers grow in lovely clusters of bright white (or yellow). Though jasmine is a vine grown outdoors, the plant grows easily indoors where vines aren’t handy.
PLANTING
Grow in a pot or hanging basket with any good potting or all-purpose soil.
CARE
During the spring and summer months Jasmine needs full sunlight.
In the winter months Jasmine still needs light, but it doesn’t have to be direct.
Soil should be moist and well-drained, but do not overwater.
During the summer allow the soil to be moist and let it dry between waterings. Water less in the fall. In the winter and spring months keep the plant slightly dry.
Prune after blooming season (which is spring) to shape the plant.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root rot and mealybugs are common.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Pelargonium
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: Multicolor
Geraniums are a longtime favorite of Almanac gardeners. They are easy to grow, colorful, and many add a lovely scent to the home. Although, they are also an outdoor plant, they can be kept indoors to overwinter. Or, they can bloom indoors all year long with enough light.
PLANTING
When buying geraniums, look for color and size. Healthy leaves will have no discoloration on or below them and stems will be sturdy, not straggly. Be sure to avoid any plants with obvious signs of pests as well.
Place plants in pots with drainage holes to avoid root rot. Do not use a saucer beneath your pot unless filled with pebbles.
Use soil-less potting mixture (not dirt) when planting in containers.
For maximum bloom, place the plants in an area where they will get 4-6 hours of sunlight daily.
CARE
Allow to dry between waterings, then water thoroughly.
During the winter water much less, but do not let the roots dry out.
To encourage blooming, deadhead spent flowers.
To promote bushiness and avoid legginess, pinch the stems.
During active growing months, fertilize every 2 weeks. Use a water-soluable fertilizer at half strength. Don’t fertilize in winter.
Geraniums can be re-potted as needed during the spring to be refreshed.
PESTS/DISEASES
Common problems can be low light or too much or too little water. The leaves will turn yellow as an indication you are watering too little or too much in which case, try to even the watering out and move the geraniums to a brighter place.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Sandy
FLOWER COLOR: Multicolor
Geraniums are a longtime favorite of Almanac gardeners. They are easy to grow, colorful, and many add a lovely scent to the home. Although, they are also an outdoor plant, they can be kept indoors to overwinter. Or, they can bloom indoors all year long with enough light.
PLANTING
When buying geraniums, look for color and size. Healthy leaves will have no discoloration on or below them and stems will be sturdy, not straggly. Be sure to avoid any plants with obvious signs of pests as well.
Place plants in pots with drainage holes to avoid root rot. Do not use a saucer beneath your pot unless filled with pebbles.
Use soil-less potting mixture (not dirt) when planting in containers.
For maximum bloom, place the plants in an area where they will get 4-6 hours of sunlight daily.
CARE
Allow to dry between waterings, then water thoroughly.
During the winter water much less, but do not let the roots dry out.
To encourage blooming, deadhead spent flowers.
To promote bushiness and avoid legginess, pinch the stems.
During active growing months, fertilize every 2 weeks. Use a water-soluable fertilizer at half strength. Don’t fertilize in winter.
Geraniums can be re-potted as needed during the spring to be refreshed.
PESTS/DISEASES
Common problems can be low light or too much or too little water. The leaves will turn yellow as an indication you are watering too little or too much in which case, try to even the watering out and move the geraniums to a brighter place.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Schlumbergera hybrids
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: Pink
Christmas Cacti are easy to grow. When they bloom, they produce beautiful colors of pink or lilac. They have flatted leaves with rounded teeth on the margins.
Despite their name, Christmas cacti are not desert cacti. Their natural habit is one of an epiphyte living in tree branches in the rain forest of Brazil!
Also, note that there are several types of Holiday Cacti: Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas. They bloom closest to the holiday of their name. That said, many florists do not know the difference. If you find your Christmas cactus blooming near Thanksgiving, guess what?
PLANTING
Christmas cacti grow in most container soils. Ensure the soil drains well and your pots have drainage holes.
Plants should be kept in bright, indirect light.
A daytime temperature of 70 degrees F and an evening temperature of 60 to 65 degrees F is preferred.
In the summer, Christmas cacti can be placed in a shady spot in the garden or in an unheated porch until temperatures get below 50 degrees.
CARE
From spring through early fall, feed every 2 weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer. During the fall and winter feed the cactus monthly.
Allow soil to almost dry between waterings. If the stems look shriveled, it is an indication of too little watering. Watering is especially important during flowering.
Once flowers fade, continue to grow the plant as a houseplant.
Prune plants in June to encourage branching and more flowers. Simply cut off a few sections of each stem. Of you wish, root the cut-off pieces in moist vermiculite to make more plants.
If your cactus is not blooming, it may due to amount of daylight or temperature. Flowers will only form when the temperature is between a cool 50 to 55 degrees F.
Nights need to be at least 14 hours long and daylight periods are between 8 to 10 hours for 6 weeks—for six weeks. If you have strong indoor lighting, you may need to cover your cacti at night.
If the cacti sheds its buds in a winter, it will bloom the following year.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your Christmas Cacti is exposed to any type of stress, the plant will drop its blossoms. This could be related to amount of light, or a sudden change in temperature, as discussed in above plant care section. Also, ensure that your soil doesn’t get too dry.
The plant may be susceptible to mealy bugs and, if over-watered, root rot. If you have problems, cut out infected areas and repot in clean soil.
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
FLOWER COLOR: Pink
Christmas Cacti are easy to grow. When they bloom, they produce beautiful colors of pink or lilac. They have flatted leaves with rounded teeth on the margins.
Despite their name, Christmas cacti are not desert cacti. Their natural habit is one of an epiphyte living in tree branches in the rain forest of Brazil!
Also, note that there are several types of Holiday Cacti: Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas. They bloom closest to the holiday of their name. That said, many florists do not know the difference. If you find your Christmas cactus blooming near Thanksgiving, guess what?
PLANTING
Christmas cacti grow in most container soils. Ensure the soil drains well and your pots have drainage holes.
Plants should be kept in bright, indirect light.
A daytime temperature of 70 degrees F and an evening temperature of 60 to 65 degrees F is preferred.
In the summer, Christmas cacti can be placed in a shady spot in the garden or in an unheated porch until temperatures get below 50 degrees.
CARE
From spring through early fall, feed every 2 weeks with a complete houseplant fertilizer. During the fall and winter feed the cactus monthly.
Allow soil to almost dry between waterings. If the stems look shriveled, it is an indication of too little watering. Watering is especially important during flowering.
Once flowers fade, continue to grow the plant as a houseplant.
Prune plants in June to encourage branching and more flowers. Simply cut off a few sections of each stem. Of you wish, root the cut-off pieces in moist vermiculite to make more plants.
If your cactus is not blooming, it may due to amount of daylight or temperature. Flowers will only form when the temperature is between a cool 50 to 55 degrees F.
Nights need to be at least 14 hours long and daylight periods are between 8 to 10 hours for 6 weeks—for six weeks. If you have strong indoor lighting, you may need to cover your cacti at night.
If the cacti sheds its buds in a winter, it will bloom the following year.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your Christmas Cacti is exposed to any type of stress, the plant will drop its blossoms. This could be related to amount of light, or a sudden change in temperature, as discussed in above plant care section. Also, ensure that your soil doesn’t get too dry.
The plant may be susceptible to mealy bugs and, if over-watered, root rot. If you have problems, cut out infected areas and repot in clean soil.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Saintpaulia
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleWhite
African violets are small, easy to grow houseplants with clusters are small flowers over fuzzy leaves. They will bloom with lower light, though medium to bright indirect light is best. African violets can be a bit fussy.
PLANTING
You can use an actual African violet potting mix or an all-purpose potting soil. Keep them planted in small pots and re-pot once a year to allow fresh soil. The soil should be loose and well-drained, and high organic matter content is beneficial.
CARE
Keep the soil lightly moist every day and avoid getting the leaves wet. Use room temperature water.
Fertilize every 2 weeks with a high phosphorous plant food, but only during the summer growing season. Only start to fertilize when the plant appears to need an extra boost. Over-fertilizing is a more common problem than under-fertilizing.
Many varieties prefer warm conditions (65 degrees F or warmer) though some varieties can grow in cooler conditions.
Thin, dark green leaves tell you that the plant is getting too little light.
Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow. The optimal time for repotting is after some leaves have wilted a bit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cyclamen mites can occur. They are very hard to remove, so dispose of plant and and isolate other plants that may have been surrounding the African violet.
Powdery Mildew
Various forms of rot and blight
PLANT TYPE: Houseplant
SUN EXPOSURE: Part Sun
SOIL PH: Slightly Acidic to Neutral
FLOWER COLOR: PinkPurpleWhite
African violets are small, easy to grow houseplants with clusters are small flowers over fuzzy leaves. They will bloom with lower light, though medium to bright indirect light is best. African violets can be a bit fussy.
PLANTING
You can use an actual African violet potting mix or an all-purpose potting soil. Keep them planted in small pots and re-pot once a year to allow fresh soil. The soil should be loose and well-drained, and high organic matter content is beneficial.
CARE
Keep the soil lightly moist every day and avoid getting the leaves wet. Use room temperature water.
Fertilize every 2 weeks with a high phosphorous plant food, but only during the summer growing season. Only start to fertilize when the plant appears to need an extra boost. Over-fertilizing is a more common problem than under-fertilizing.
Many varieties prefer warm conditions (65 degrees F or warmer) though some varieties can grow in cooler conditions.
Thin, dark green leaves tell you that the plant is getting too little light.
Plants should be shifted to larger pots as they grow. The optimal time for repotting is after some leaves have wilted a bit.
PESTS/DISEASES
Cyclamen mites can occur. They are very hard to remove, so dispose of plant and and isolate other plants that may have been surrounding the African violet.
Powdery Mildew
Various forms of rot and blight
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