文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Jade plants (Crassula ovata) can be grown from a single leaf and end up over 5 feet tall. They have fleshy branches and rounded, glossy leaves. As succulents, they require little water but grow best in bright light with some direct sunshine. Jade plants lose older leaves naturally but an increase in the rate of leaf loss is often the first sign of a problem.
Underwatering
Jade plants that are not receiving enough water often shed their older leaves. If the lower leaves on your plant are shriveling up and then falling off, check its soil. If it is completely dry, water your plant thoroughly. Water a jade plant every time the top inch of its soil is completely dry. Jade plants add leaves and shoots during the summer and need more water during the hot summer months.
Overwatering
Succulent jade plants are vulnerable to rot and must never be left with their pot standing in water. Check your plant's soil if its leaves turn yellow and start to drop off. Do not apply any more water until it has dried out completely. Remove the plant from its pot if you notice any soft sections on the trunk or branches. Wash all the soil off the roots and place it on a windowsill for a week. Cut off any branches or roots that are soft and repot in cactus potting mix.
Light
If your jade is losing its lower leaves at the beginning of winter this is likely to be because of low light. Move your plant closer to a window to increase light levels. Jade plants that are kept close to a window will shed leaves if they touch the glass on very hot or very cold days. Keep the plant a few inches back from the glass.
Temperature
Keep jade plants above 50 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter as cold temperatures will damage the leaves. Frost will kill your jade plant completely. Jade plants will shed leaves if they are placed in a cold draft or close to a radiator. A sudden change in temperature caused by a move will also cause leaf drop. The leaves will grow back once your plant has adapted to its new surroundings.
Leaf Shine
Never use leaf shine products on jade plants as it will cause all their leaves to turn yellow and fall off. Household chemicals and cleaners have a similar effect if they touch the leaves. Jade plant leaves shine naturally if they are dust free and the plant is healthy.
Pests
Jade plants are vulnerable to infestations of mealy bugs and scale insect. Mealies and scale make jade leaves sticky and can encourage the growth of molds. They also cause leaf drop and deformed leaves. Treat mealies and scale by dabbing them with a paintbrush dipped in a 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Yucca plants grow in either a tree form or a shrub form. Tree yuccas are tall growing trees that have thick fibrous leaves on the tips of their branches. Common tree yuccas are Spanish bayonet (Yucca aloifolia) and the Joshua tree (Yucca brevifolia). Shrub yuccas, like the hairy yucca (Yucca filamentosa), are low-growing spiky plants that form rosettes of thick fibrous leaves that sprout from a central point. After both yucca plants bloom, a brown flower stalk is left behind. The flowering stalk should be removed from the plant if you do not wish for the plant to produce seed. Often, shrub yucca plants turn brown and then die after they flower, but new plants emerge around the dead rosette.
Step 1
Put on leather gardening gloves and prune off the dead and dying leaves in the spring with sharp pruning shears. Avoid pulling the leaves off the plant as this causes damage.
Step 2
Remove the flower stalk after it has dried, which is usually in late summer. Cut the flower stalk 3 to 4 inches above the center of the rosette with sharp pruning shears. Remove the severed flowering stalk and discard. Pull the stalk out from the center of the plant only if the center is rotted and the stalk can be easily removed.
Step 3
Pull the dead yucca plant out of the ground gently when you notice new plants forming around it. Use caution not to disturb the newly emerged plants.
Flowering Stalk Removal of Tree Yuccas
Step 4
Prune off only dead or dying leaves with pruning shears. Removing green leaves damages the tree. Wear leather gloves to protect your hands.
Step 5
Cut the flower stalk panicles off the tree after a few weeks of blooming if you live in a wet area. Cut the panicles 3 to 4 inches from the center of the leaves with sharp pruning shears. Dead flower stalks will fall off the tree leaving behind a hole where water can get into the heart of the plant and rot it out from the inside.
Step 6
Cut the flowing stalks anytime if you live in a dry climate. Cut the stalk panicles 3 to 4 inches from the center of the leaves with sharp pruning shears. It is not harmful to leave the flowering stalks on the tree if you live in an arid area that does not receive much rain.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Growing a cactus indoors or out can create visual interest and a feel reminiscent of a dry, rugged landscape. While many cacti grow well when planted in the ground in a preferred climate, container grown cacti can sometimes begin to wilt as a sign they are either receiving too much water or not enough. Luckily, you can fix a wilting cactus by improving your soil and making changes to your watering schedule.
Step 1
Feel the soil around the base of your cactus for wetness. If the soil is powdery and dry, then water quantity or frequency is the issue. Proceed to Step 2.
Step 2
If the soil is overly wet, then an excess of water is the cause of the wilting and you'll need to follow steps 3 to 5.
Step 3
Water dry soil using 1/2 cup of water for every 4 inches in diameter of your cactus' pot. For example, an 8-inch pot would require a cup of water. Supply this quantity of water weekly from spring to fall, but provide this amount of water every two to three weeks during the winter.
Step 4
Ease the cactus out of the soggy soil container and knock off any excess soil to expose the roots. Inspect the roots of the plant to see if they appear firm and white or if they have turned brown and mushy. Cut off any bad, mushy roots using a clean knife.
Step 5
Rinse out and wash the old pot your plant was in or use a new pot no more than 1 to 2 inches larger in size. Fill the pot with succulent soil or an equal mix of potting soil and builder's sand.
Step 6
Plant the wilting cactus into the center of the prepared pot at an equal depth to how it was previously planted. Leave the plant unwatered for one week. Resume watering according to Step 2 for quantity and frequency during the year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
If a cactus breaks off, don't throw the broken piece away. Put it into cactus soil and start a new plant. Cacti, also known as succulents, are slow-
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
growing plants native to the Americas, and grow well without needing water. By following a few steps, it is possible to plant the broken section of the cactus that will take root and grow for years to come.
Step 1
Check the broken end of the cactus. If the break is crooked or uneven, make a fresh cut to even it out.
Step 2
Set the cactus piece aside allowing the cut end to callous over. The end must be dry and sealed over. The length of time it takes for the end to be calloused over varies. It depends on the humidity in the air and the thickness of the cut.
Step 3
Fill a pot with cactus mix. Leave the drainage holes uncovered -- because you want the water to drain through the soil quickly. The size of the pot depends on the type of cactus you are trying to root. If the cactus is tall, then you will need a bigger pot than if it is just a small button-type cactus.
Step 4
Insert the calloused end into the soil approximately 1 to 2 inches deep. Firm the soil down with your fingers to hold the cutting in place.
Step 5
Place the pot in a warm, sunny window.
Step 6
Water the soil thoroughly, two to four weeks later. Wait another two to four weeks before watering again. It takes two to six weeks for the roots to form.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
As with all other plants, cacti require water and nutrients, taken in by the roots, in order to grow. This means that although cacti usually grow only in dry soils, they can also be grown hydroponically. Unlike many plants grown in water, cacti do not require the use of an active hydroponic system with a pump. The roots need only soak in the water and nutrient combination. This method offers several advantages over traditional soil growing. Nutrient and water levels can be controlled more precisely, contributing to greater vigor and health for the plant. Additionally, once the hydroponic system has been set up, taking care of the cactus requires much less effort than in other methods.
Step 1
Rinse the aggregate material and soak it in water for several hours.
Step 2
Place the mesh inner pot inside the outer pot. Cover the bottom of the inner pot with an inch of the aggregate.
Step 3
Remove the cactus from the soil and rinse the roots until all the soil has been removed. This will prevent the potential problems that can come with soil — such as fungus or parasite growth — from occurring. Be careful not to damage the roots.
Step 4
Place the cactus on top of the initial layer of aggregate material. Spread the roots evenly around in the space available. Fill the pot with the remaining aggregate. Try not to cover up the part of the cactus with spines, but make sure that enough material is in place to keep the plant stable. It should be grounded firmly, with no risk of falling to the side.
Step 5
Mix standard A- and B-type nutrient solutions with water to the level of concentration recommended by the solutions' packaging. Fill the pot or tray with enough of this nutrient and water mix to cover the roots. Avoid putting in enough water to soak the stem of the cactus; doing so will cause the plant to rot.
Step 6
Remove the plant approximately every two weeks and wash the roots, making sure to wash away any dead or decaying roots. Wash the stem of the cactus as well to remove dust. Change the nutrient solution completely once every one to two months.
Step 7
Place the cactus in a new pot once its roots have filled the inner container. This will probably occur once every two to three years. There is no need to repot the plant unless this occurs.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants are adapted to drought and extreme temperatures. One of the adaptations that allows them to survive their native desert conditions is slow growth. Saguaro cacti, for example, grow only 1 inch in the first eight years of life. These massive plants are usually 35 years old before they produce flowers, and at least 75 years old before they produce side arms.
Seed
Growing cactus from seed is an exercise in patience since the seeds may take up to a year to germinate. Once the seeds begin growing, it may be at least two or three years before the plant flowers. Sow the seeds in a sandy potting mix and keep the soil at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover the seed tray with plastic wrap to conserve moisture and warmth. Keep them in the starting tray until the plant stands 2 to 4 inches high, which may take up to two years.
Nursery Plants
Many nurseries and garden centers sell small cacti as houseplants. These plants grow very slowly and can remain in the same pot for two or three years. The plants grow during the spring and summer, followed by a dormant period in the fall and winter.
Care
To encourage reasonable growth, plant your cactus in a shallow pot with a coarse sand and soil mixture or a potting mix made specifically for cacti. Place the cactus outdoors in full sun during the summer, but bring it indoors in the winter. Water it every two weeks or so during hot weather. Provide water in the winter every three to four weeks. Cacti are prone to root rots and fungal diseases in damp conditions. Gradually move the plant each spring and fall to help it acclimate to its new surroundings. Moving it abruptly outdoors after a winter inside may scorch the plant.
Variety
Cacti vary in their growth rate, depending on the species. Try Christmas cactus, golden barrel or fire barrel cactus as houseplants. Other succulent plants that are often classified as a cactus, such as aloe, agave and sedums, may grow more quickly.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactus plants are much more than just spine-covered desert plants. In reality, the cactus family incorporates a great variety of versatile and useful plants that are both attractive and easy to grow. In dry regions and drought-resistant gardens, cactus is ideal because it can store water on its own. Many cactus varieties display beautiful, exotic-looking flowers. With their many shapes and sizes, cacti serve well as ornamental and landscape plants without requiring much maintenance.
Drought Resistance
Cactus is one of the best choices for a drought-resistant garden in arid regions and can help gardeners and landscapers reduce water usage. Drought-resistant gardens are those designed to thrive even when rainfall is infrequent, and do not require irrigation. Cacti are succulents and can store water within their stems for use during periods of drought. The ease of growing cactus makes maintaining a landscape more feasible. Overwatering is one of the most common ways to kill a cactus. Water infrequently, especially during winter.
Ornamental Flowers
Despite their often intimidating and painful spines, cactus plants often produce some of the showiest flowers among plants. Plant flower-bearing cacti as ornamental additions both indoors or outdoors. The flowers tend to be limited in number but are often large, have numerous petals and come in various shapes. This is especially true of Epiphyllum, the orchid cactus, which grows flowers up to 8 inches in diameter that emit a strong fragrance. Soehrensia bruchii bears vivid red petals, while Trichocereus lamprochlorus explodes a large bloom in bright yellow.
Landscaping
Plant cacti in a landscape function to add texture and shape to a yard, or to fill open spots with versatility and variety. Grow lithops if you need low-growing, small specimens. Lithops are called "living stones" or "flowering stones" because they mimic rocks. Other cacti serve well as potted plants, such as crassulas. Grow a taller cactus, such as Saguarop, to fill vertical space in a landscape. Depending on the variety, cacti may be round and small, or grow extremely large, and may be shade-loving or sun-loving plants.
Food
Certain varieties of cactus can also function as edible food crops. The Mexican dish "nopales" is made of young stems of the prickly pear cactus.The texture and flavor is comparable to green beans. The prickly pear's small leaves are also used as a crispy lettuce. Texas A&M Agrilife Extension recommends preparing nopales as follows: Remove thorns with a peeler or knife if they are present. Cut them into squares and boil with chopped onion, salt and soda until tender.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Cactuses have a reputation for growing slowly, but among the 2,000-plus species is a wide variety of sizes and growth rates. Some never grow higher than a few inches while others may reach heights of 30 feet or higher. All cactus species grow fastest if they receive bright light and the correct amount of water and fertilizer. Making your cactus grow faster is a question of providing its ideal growing conditions during the warmer months of the year.
Step 1
Re-pot your cactus in a ceramic pot slightly larger than its current container. Use gloves to prevent the spines from piercing the skin and also to prevent damage to the cactus. Plant it in compost formulated for succulents or a mixture of equal parts of potting soil and coarse sand. Re-plant your cactus at exactly the same level that it sat in its original pot.
Step 2
Place your cactus on a bright, south-facing window sill or the sunniest spot in your home. Rotate the pot once a week to make sure growth is even. Aim to keep your cactus in an environment with temperatures ranging from 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer and 45 to 55 degrees during the winter.
Step 3
Water during the warmer months of the year, when the top inch of the soil is completely dry. Provide enough water to thoroughly moisten the compost and allow all excess liquid to drain away. During the winter, water only when the soil is completely dry or when your cactus starts to shrivel. Even then, provide only enough water to slightly moisten the soil.
Step 4
Fertilize your cactus once a month during the warmer months of the year with a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer formulated for succulents. Do not fertilize during the winter.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Grow mini cactuses in pots indoors for a low-maintenance, hardy houseplant. The plants require very little care to thrive. As long as they get lots of sun and are in a well-draining environment, mini cactuses grow happily for years. Proper potting is important in growing a healthy plant. The right potting soil and the care right after planting are critical for success. You can put your potted mini cactus outside in summer but be sure to bring it in before winter weather sets in since cactus plants tend to be frost-tender.
Step 1
Select a pot 1 inch larger than the root mass or the nursery pot the mini cactus is currently in. Make sure the pot has at least one drain hole in the bottom to prevent excess water from accumulating around the roots. Mini cactuses grow well in 2- to 4-inch pots.
Step 2
Spread a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of fine gravel in the bottom of the pot. Add a commercial potting soil formulated for cactuses and succulents -- regular potting soil holds too much moisture for a cactus.
Step 3
Slip the mini cactus out of the nursery pot. Wear gloves to protect your hands from the sharp thorns. If the pot doesn't slip off the roots easily, give it a gentle squeeze to loosen the soil.
Step 4
Place the mini cactus upright in the new pot. Hold it with the base of the stem 1/4 inch below the lip of the pot. Add more soil under the roots if you need to until the cactus sits on its own in the pot. Fill in around the root ball and gently press the soil down with your fingertips.
Step 5
Place the pot in a sunny spot after planting. Wait to water for two full weeks after you pot the mini cactus. The disturbed roots establish themselves better if left dry for a two-week period after planting.
Step 6
Water once a month in winter and twice a month in spring, summer and early fall. Place the pot in the sink and run water over it until the liquid starts to drip out the drain holes in the bottom of the pot. Let the pot drain and then place it in a sunny window or outside in hot weather.
Step 7
Fertilize mini cactuses every other month in spring and summer. Select a 5-10-10 fertilizer and apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Water well after fertilizing.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
In hydroculture, also known as hydroponics, plants grow in a soilless medium known as substrate, where the roots anchor themselves. The substrate is usually sand or gravel and, unlike the soil in traditional planting, it does not hold nutrients. Hydroponic plants get nourishment from a water-based fertilizer. For succulents, make the feeding solution weaker than you would for other hydroponic specimens.
About Succulents
Succulents are plants that retain water in their leaves or stems, such as the cactus species. Adapted to dry climates, succulents look slightly to very swollen -- depending on the specimen -- because of the moisture they hold inside for times of drought.
Growing Succulents Hydroponically
Douglas Peckenpaugh, author of the book "Hydroponic Solutions, Volume 1," says that gardeners have to follow two rules to successfully grow succulents in hydroculture: Dilute the water-based fertilizer to half strength and use a substrate that lets the liquid seep through. River sand, gravel, perlite and vermiculite are good options. Buy the material of your choice sealed in a commercial package to guarantee sterility and prevent diseases from transferring to the succulent.
Why Hydroponics
The purpose of soil in traditional gardening is to hold nutrients, according to the University of Alabama Cooperative Extension. When you water your plants, the minerals dissolve in the liquid and the roots absorb them. Plants grown hydroponically skip this step and sometimes grow faster as a result, since nourishment is always diluted and available in the water. If you capture the water-based fertilizer as it drains to feed it to your succulent multiple times, limit the food recycling to two weeks. At the end of that period, drench the substrate with water to flush old nutrient residue. After the medium becomes almost dry, begin to feed the plant a fresh batch of liquid feed.
Feeding the Succulent
To prevent saturating your succulent with water, which can kill it, allow the substrate to become mostly dry before refilling the hydroculture pot with liquid feed. But also take care to not let the plant sit in a dry medium for long periods of time. The feeding solution for hydroponic culture provides the same nutrients that traditionally grown plants need. Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, as well as calcium and magnesium, are needed in large amounts and considered macronutrients. Minerals such as iron, zinc and copper are trace elements required in small quantities. Recipes for you to prepare your own hydroponic feed exist, but using a commercial formula is simpler. The manufacturer calculates all the ratios among the nutrients with precision and gives you the application instructions. You just need to remember to weaken the formula to half-strength with water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
For a cactus that's colorful out-of-bloom as well as in-bloom, grow rainbow cactus (Echinocereus rigidissimus, Echinocereus pectinatus var. rubrispinus). The short, cylindrical stem is densely covered with comb-shaped spines in alternating bands of red, pink, white and gray. In spring, bright magenta flowers at least 2 inches wide appear. Slow-growing plants rarely branch, so rainbow cactus is grown from seed. It is suited for container growing because of its need for excellent drainage.
Light
For best spine color and stem shape, grow rainbow cactus in the sun. In areas with hot summer temperatures and intense sun, partial shade in the afternoon is acceptable. The cactus is native to the southwestern United States and northern Mexico, growing in mountainous areas between 4,000 and 6,000 feet elevation. Plants are subject to hot, dry summers and increased levels of ultraviolet light because of the higher elevation, so you can grow them where more tender plants would fail.
Cold-Hardiness
One of the cold-hardier cacti, rainbow cactus tolerates short exposures to temperatures of 10 degrees Fahrenheit if the plant is kept dry, making it hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. Leo Chance, author of "Cacti and Succulents for Cold Climates," reports rainbow cactus marginally hardy in USDA zone 5, enduring temperatures of minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit when protected with a thick mulch. If you grow rainbow cactus in a container, it will not be as cold hardy as if it is in the ground. For colder winter areas, keep the cactus and its soil dry in winter.
Soil
Grow rainbow cactus in an open, fast-draining soil mix. You can use purchased cactus and succulent potting mix, but mix 1 part perlite with 2 parts of the potting mix to increase the drainage. Rainbow cactus reaches 12 inches high -- very rarely 18 inches -- so the plant is best enjoyed up close in a container where its color and markings are easily visible. Give the cactus a pot just slightly bigger than the plant's diameter for good drainage and so soil can dry out quickly between watering. In USDA zones 8 through 11, plants grow outdoors in well-drained garden beds such as rock gardens and mounded soil areas or raised beds in xeriscape gardens.
Watering
During the growing season, water rainbow cactus thoroughly and then let the soil dry out before watering it again. It is best to err on the side of underwatering for rainbow cactus, since it is susceptible to root rot if soil is too moist. Test the soil with your fingers or a soil probe halfway down the pot or in the garden bed at 2 inches into the soil. If you find moistness at that level, don't water the plant. Rainbow cactus goes dormant for the winter, so water it less frequently then, withholding water if the plant is in the ground.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Choanenphora wet rot control is essential for those of us who love to grow squash, cucumbers and other cucurbits. What is Choaneephora fruit rot? You may not know the disease as Choaenephora, but you probably know what blossom end rot is. It is evidenced by soft, rotting ends on squash and other cucurbits. The disease is caused by fungal mold and it isn’t easy to get rid of once you have it, but it is easy to prevent. What is Choanephora Fruit Rot? Choanephora wet rot in plants begins in the flowers, which will bear a powdery white residue. 
Once fruits begin to form and the flower withers away, the flower end of the fruit shows signs of mushiness and rot along with white or purplish powder. It progresses into the fruit, stunting growth and destroying much of the edible tissue. Once the disease is on your plants, it can spread quickly, so controlling Choanephora fruit rot immediately is essential to saving the crop. Choanephora fruit fungus can overwinter in garden debris. Fungal spores spread in spring by wind and insect movement. Warm, wet conditions encourage the growth of the fungus, which is one of the fastest growing fungal diseases. You can use a hand magnifier and see whisker-like growth on the fruit to differentiate it from another common fungal disease, Rhizopus soft rot. In areas with high humidity and moist conditions, the fungus can blight as much as 90 percent of a crop. Choanephora wet rot in plants is difficult to control because new flowers are forming daily and are newly susceptible to the spores. Choanephora Fruit Rot Treatment There is no prescribed Choanephora fruit rot treatment. Some growers suggest using fungicides, but these are only affective on the flowers that are treated. Over the course of a day or two, these flowers are replaced by new ones so you would be faced with treating the plant every couple of days. This is not a safe solution for developing fruits, so fungicides are, therefore, not considered useful. Some gardeners swear by the addition of calcium to soil to prevent the disease by adding Epsom salts or crushed eggshells to the soil at planting. This will certainly bolster the health of the plant but will not prevent spores from eating into the fruit.
Choanephora wet rot control actually begins when you are planning the vegetable garden. Before you plant a single seed, consider crop rotation. This will prevent any cucurbits from being planted in the same soil as the previous year where soil may be contaminated by the fungus. Space the plants well so there is plenty of air circulation to dry out the leaves and stems. Avoid irrigating overhead in the evening when plants cannot have time to dry off. Planting squash and other susceptible plants in raised beds with drip irrigation also seems to be helpful. Clean up infected plant debris. You may still get one or two infected fruits, but you should be able to save the bulk of the crop with these practices.
Once fruits begin to form and the flower withers away, the flower end of the fruit shows signs of mushiness and rot along with white or purplish powder. It progresses into the fruit, stunting growth and destroying much of the edible tissue. Once the disease is on your plants, it can spread quickly, so controlling Choanephora fruit rot immediately is essential to saving the crop. Choanephora fruit fungus can overwinter in garden debris. Fungal spores spread in spring by wind and insect movement. Warm, wet conditions encourage the growth of the fungus, which is one of the fastest growing fungal diseases. You can use a hand magnifier and see whisker-like growth on the fruit to differentiate it from another common fungal disease, Rhizopus soft rot. In areas with high humidity and moist conditions, the fungus can blight as much as 90 percent of a crop. Choanephora wet rot in plants is difficult to control because new flowers are forming daily and are newly susceptible to the spores. Choanephora Fruit Rot Treatment There is no prescribed Choanephora fruit rot treatment. Some growers suggest using fungicides, but these are only affective on the flowers that are treated. Over the course of a day or two, these flowers are replaced by new ones so you would be faced with treating the plant every couple of days. This is not a safe solution for developing fruits, so fungicides are, therefore, not considered useful. Some gardeners swear by the addition of calcium to soil to prevent the disease by adding Epsom salts or crushed eggshells to the soil at planting. This will certainly bolster the health of the plant but will not prevent spores from eating into the fruit.
Choanephora wet rot control actually begins when you are planning the vegetable garden. Before you plant a single seed, consider crop rotation. This will prevent any cucurbits from being planted in the same soil as the previous year where soil may be contaminated by the fungus. Space the plants well so there is plenty of air circulation to dry out the leaves and stems. Avoid irrigating overhead in the evening when plants cannot have time to dry off. Planting squash and other susceptible plants in raised beds with drip irrigation also seems to be helpful. Clean up infected plant debris. You may still get one or two infected fruits, but you should be able to save the bulk of the crop with these practices.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Fungus happens. Even the most experienced and dedicated gardeners will experience fungal disease on plants at some point. Fungus can affect plants in any climate and hardiness zone because, like plants, certain fungal spores grow better in different climates.
Even new disease resistant varieties can suffer from these issues. As gardeners, we can choose to spend a fortune on different chemicals that can have residual effects to treat different symptoms or we can use a natural based product that has been used by growers and breeders for hundreds of years.
What is Lime Sulfur? Lime sulfur is a mixture of calcium hydroxide and sulfur. In horticultural dormant sprays, lime sulfur is usually mixed with an oil, like mineral oil, to make it stick to plant surfaces. These horticultural oil sprays contain a high concentration of lime sulfur that is only safe to use on plants that are dormant because the sulfur can burn leaf tissues. Lime sulfur can also be mixed in much weaker concentration with water for use when plants have leafed out. Even in lower concentrations and diluted with water, it is important not to spray lime sulfur on plants during hot, sunny days, as the sulfur can cause sunscald on plants. With warnings like this, you may wonder is lime sulfur safe? When used properly, lime sulfur is a safe and effective treatment of fungal diseases such as: Powdery mildew Anthracnose Black spot Blights Black rot As a horticultural dormant spray, lime sulfur is safe to use even on fruits that include: Raspberries Blackberries Blueberries Apples Peaches Pears Plums Cherries Lime sulfur is also used to treat fungal diseases of ornamental plants like: Roses Dogwoods Ninebark Phlox Rudbeckia.
How and to Use Lime Sulfur Fungal disease spores can overwinter in cracks or fissures on plants or in soil and garden debris. For this reason, lime sulfur is used in high concentrates mixed with oil as a horticultural dormant spray. When to use lime sulfur this way is in late winter or early spring before the plant begins to leaf out. It is also a good idea to spray the soil around plants that have been previously infected or are prone to infection. For perennials or plants that are showing new signs of fungal diseases, lime sulfur can be mixed with water and sprayed on plants anytime except for hot, sunny days. The mixing ratio is 1 tsp. per gallon of water. Spray all surfaces of the plant thoroughly. Allow the mixture to sit on the plants for 15-20 minutes. Then thoroughly rinse the plants with just clear water. Occasionally, you will notice the bottom portion of tree trunks covered with white latex paint. Sometimes, this contains a diluted mixture of lime sulfur.
Even new disease resistant varieties can suffer from these issues. As gardeners, we can choose to spend a fortune on different chemicals that can have residual effects to treat different symptoms or we can use a natural based product that has been used by growers and breeders for hundreds of years.
What is Lime Sulfur? Lime sulfur is a mixture of calcium hydroxide and sulfur. In horticultural dormant sprays, lime sulfur is usually mixed with an oil, like mineral oil, to make it stick to plant surfaces. These horticultural oil sprays contain a high concentration of lime sulfur that is only safe to use on plants that are dormant because the sulfur can burn leaf tissues. Lime sulfur can also be mixed in much weaker concentration with water for use when plants have leafed out. Even in lower concentrations and diluted with water, it is important not to spray lime sulfur on plants during hot, sunny days, as the sulfur can cause sunscald on plants. With warnings like this, you may wonder is lime sulfur safe? When used properly, lime sulfur is a safe and effective treatment of fungal diseases such as: Powdery mildew Anthracnose Black spot Blights Black rot As a horticultural dormant spray, lime sulfur is safe to use even on fruits that include: Raspberries Blackberries Blueberries Apples Peaches Pears Plums Cherries Lime sulfur is also used to treat fungal diseases of ornamental plants like: Roses Dogwoods Ninebark Phlox Rudbeckia.
How and to Use Lime Sulfur Fungal disease spores can overwinter in cracks or fissures on plants or in soil and garden debris. For this reason, lime sulfur is used in high concentrates mixed with oil as a horticultural dormant spray. When to use lime sulfur this way is in late winter or early spring before the plant begins to leaf out. It is also a good idea to spray the soil around plants that have been previously infected or are prone to infection. For perennials or plants that are showing new signs of fungal diseases, lime sulfur can be mixed with water and sprayed on plants anytime except for hot, sunny days. The mixing ratio is 1 tsp. per gallon of water. Spray all surfaces of the plant thoroughly. Allow the mixture to sit on the plants for 15-20 minutes. Then thoroughly rinse the plants with just clear water. Occasionally, you will notice the bottom portion of tree trunks covered with white latex paint. Sometimes, this contains a diluted mixture of lime sulfur.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Amaryllis
Hippeastrum_ hybrids
Amaryllis is an easy bulb to grow. Its enormous cluster of trumpet-shape blooms may require staking to keep them upright, but blooms may last for up to 6 weeks. Keep the plant cool (60-65 degrees F) while in bloom but slightly warmer at other times when it is actively growing. It needs bright light and evenly moist soil, except when it is dormant. Force the bulb to go dormant in late summer or early fall by withholding water and placing it in a cool, dry location for a couple of months. Resume watering and move it to a warm spot to force new growth.
TYPE:Bulb, Houseplant
HEIGHT:1 to 3 feet
WIDTH:6-12 inches wide
FLOWER COLOR:Pink, Red, White
SEASONAL FEATURES:Spring Bloom, Winter Bloom
SPECIAL FEATURES:Low Maintenance
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Allium
Alliums may be in the onion family, but these top-notch garden plants are anything but utilitarian vegetable-garden residents. Among the most carefree bulbs you can grow, alliums bloom in a wide range of colors (including shades of yellow, white, pink, and purple), seasons, and sizes (from inch-wide heads to volleyball-sized bloom clusters).
Alliums offer whimsical structures and great textural contrasts unique to the late-spring bulb garden. Clustered florets in a globe-shape flower head are held aloft on a thick stem. In the species, loose bouquets of flowers sprout from clustered, hollow stems. The larger allium flower heads are fun focal points for dried arrangements. Plant alliums in any well-drained garden soil in full sun. The smaller types are especially well suited for growing in rock gardens. Plant a few larger hybrids in a pot for a flowering surprise in early summer.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Sun
TYPE:Bulb
HEIGHT:Under 6 inches to 3 feet
WIDTH:To 1 foot wide
FLOWER COLOR:Blue, Pink, White, Yellow
FOLIAGE COLOR:Blue/Green
SEASONAL FEATURES:Spring Bloom, Summer Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant, Drought Tolerant, Groundcover
SPECIAL FEATURES:Attracts Birds, Cut Flowers, Fragrance, Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:4-9
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