文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Tropaeolum majus
PLANT TYPE: Flower
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Nasturtium is an easy-to-grow annual whose leaves and flowers are edible. Here’s how to grow your own nasturtiums!
These plants, with their bright greenery and vibrant flowers, are good for containers or as ground cover. Their pretty fragrance also makes them a good choice for cut flowers. Nasturtiums are perfect to grow with children because they grow so easily and rapidly.
PLANTING
You can start the seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant nasturtium seeds in early spring in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. They can grow in partial shade, but they will not bloom as well.
Nasturtiums prefer poorer soils and they do not need fertilizers (unless your soil is extremely poor). Fertile soil will produce fewer blooms and more foliage.
Plant the seeds about half an inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. Plants should appear in 7 to 10 days.
CARE
Water regularly throughout the growing season, but be careful not to over-water your plants.
Cutting off the faded/dead flowers will prolong blooming.
If you’re growing nasturtiums in containers, they may need to be trimmed back occasionally over the growing season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Caterpillars
Aphids
Slugs
Whiteflies
Viruses
PLANT TYPE: Flower
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeRedYellow
BLOOM TIME: SummerFall
Nasturtium is an easy-to-grow annual whose leaves and flowers are edible. Here’s how to grow your own nasturtiums!
These plants, with their bright greenery and vibrant flowers, are good for containers or as ground cover. Their pretty fragrance also makes them a good choice for cut flowers. Nasturtiums are perfect to grow with children because they grow so easily and rapidly.
PLANTING
You can start the seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last spring frost. See your local frost dates.
Plant nasturtium seeds in early spring in moist, well-drained soil in full sun. They can grow in partial shade, but they will not bloom as well.
Nasturtiums prefer poorer soils and they do not need fertilizers (unless your soil is extremely poor). Fertile soil will produce fewer blooms and more foliage.
Plant the seeds about half an inch deep and 10 to 12 inches apart. Plants should appear in 7 to 10 days.
CARE
Water regularly throughout the growing season, but be careful not to over-water your plants.
Cutting off the faded/dead flowers will prolong blooming.
If you’re growing nasturtiums in containers, they may need to be trimmed back occasionally over the growing season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Flea beetles
Caterpillars
Aphids
Slugs
Whiteflies
Viruses
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Tagetes
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: ClayLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
No annual is more cheerful or easier to grow than marigolds. These flowers are the spendthrifts among annuals, showing a wealth of gold, copper, and brass into our summer and autumn gardens. The flower’s popularity probably derives in part from its ability to bloom brightly all summer long.
Marigolds have daisy-like or double, carnation-like flowerheads and are produced singly or in clusters. Although there are some 50 species, most marigolds we know come from just three:
Tagetes erecta are the tallest and most upright, at three to five feet. They are sometimes known as African, or American, marigolds. They thrive under hot, dry conditions.
Bushy T. patula, or French marigolds, are somewhat smaller and more compact. They are often wider than they are tall. Elegant and eye-catching, they have relatively demure flowers and usually grow from 6 inches to 2 feet tall.
The dainty T. tenuifolia are the signet, or rock-garden, marigolds that like hot, dry sites and make a wonderful edging. Their flowers are edible.
Marigolds have been sterotyped, but they offer tremendous variety. Both the African and French marigolds are generally aromatic, too.
French and signet types can be planted anytime through midsummer, but the tall American marigolds are best planted right away in the spring (after danger of frost is past) because they are slower to mature.
PLANTING
Marigolds thrive in full sunshine and can often withstand very hot summers.
Though they grow in almost any soil, marigolds thrive in moderately fertile, well-drained soil. Prepare the soil by digging down about 6 inches to loosen it. Remove stones.
Optional: Add some granular fertilizer in the planting hole. A 5-10-5 works fine.
Sow them directly into the garden once the soil is warm. You can start seeds indoors but they germinate so easily outside that there’s really no advantage. Marigolds sprout within days in warm weather and plants bloom in about 8 weeks.
Sow seed 1-inch apart. While still small, thin the seedlings. Space French and Signet types 8 to 10 inches apart. Larger American varieties should be at least 10 to 12 inches apart.
After planting, thoroughly water each plant.
Separate seedlings when they are about 2 inches tall. Plant them in flats of loose soil, or transplant them into the garden.
If planting in containers, use a soil-based potting mix. Either mix in slow-acting granular fertilizer at planting time or plan to water in diluted liquid fertilizer periodically. Take care to space properly; marigolds grown in containers can become crowded.
CARE
Germination from large, easily handled seeds is rapid, and blooms should appear within a few weeks of sowing.
Marigolds don’t require deadheading, but if the spent blossoms of the American type are clipped, the plants will continue to bloom profusely.
When you water marigolds, allow the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, then water well and repeat the process. Water in high heat.
Do not water marigolds from overhead. Water at the base of the plant.
Do not fertilize marigolds during growth. Too rich a diet stimulates lush foliage at the expense of flowers.
The densely double flowerheads of the African marigolds tend to rot in wet weather.
Add a layer of mulch between plants to suppress weeds and keep soil moist, especially when plants are young.
PESTS/DISEASES
Farmers and gardeners have long known that marigolds make important companion plants all over the garden. The underground workings of the marigold will repel nematodes (microscopic worms) and other pests for up to 3 years.
Marigolds have few pests or problems. Mites and aphids sometimes infest marigolds. Usually a spray of water or an insecticidal soap, repeated every other day for a week or two, will solve the problem
Occasionally marigolds will get a fungal infection if it’s often wet. Avoid watering on the leaves, keep weeds down, and plant in well-drained soil.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: ClayLoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: OrangeYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
No annual is more cheerful or easier to grow than marigolds. These flowers are the spendthrifts among annuals, showing a wealth of gold, copper, and brass into our summer and autumn gardens. The flower’s popularity probably derives in part from its ability to bloom brightly all summer long.
Marigolds have daisy-like or double, carnation-like flowerheads and are produced singly or in clusters. Although there are some 50 species, most marigolds we know come from just three:
Tagetes erecta are the tallest and most upright, at three to five feet. They are sometimes known as African, or American, marigolds. They thrive under hot, dry conditions.
Bushy T. patula, or French marigolds, are somewhat smaller and more compact. They are often wider than they are tall. Elegant and eye-catching, they have relatively demure flowers and usually grow from 6 inches to 2 feet tall.
The dainty T. tenuifolia are the signet, or rock-garden, marigolds that like hot, dry sites and make a wonderful edging. Their flowers are edible.
Marigolds have been sterotyped, but they offer tremendous variety. Both the African and French marigolds are generally aromatic, too.
French and signet types can be planted anytime through midsummer, but the tall American marigolds are best planted right away in the spring (after danger of frost is past) because they are slower to mature.
PLANTING
Marigolds thrive in full sunshine and can often withstand very hot summers.
Though they grow in almost any soil, marigolds thrive in moderately fertile, well-drained soil. Prepare the soil by digging down about 6 inches to loosen it. Remove stones.
Optional: Add some granular fertilizer in the planting hole. A 5-10-5 works fine.
Sow them directly into the garden once the soil is warm. You can start seeds indoors but they germinate so easily outside that there’s really no advantage. Marigolds sprout within days in warm weather and plants bloom in about 8 weeks.
Sow seed 1-inch apart. While still small, thin the seedlings. Space French and Signet types 8 to 10 inches apart. Larger American varieties should be at least 10 to 12 inches apart.
After planting, thoroughly water each plant.
Separate seedlings when they are about 2 inches tall. Plant them in flats of loose soil, or transplant them into the garden.
If planting in containers, use a soil-based potting mix. Either mix in slow-acting granular fertilizer at planting time or plan to water in diluted liquid fertilizer periodically. Take care to space properly; marigolds grown in containers can become crowded.
CARE
Germination from large, easily handled seeds is rapid, and blooms should appear within a few weeks of sowing.
Marigolds don’t require deadheading, but if the spent blossoms of the American type are clipped, the plants will continue to bloom profusely.
When you water marigolds, allow the soil to dry somewhat between waterings, then water well and repeat the process. Water in high heat.
Do not water marigolds from overhead. Water at the base of the plant.
Do not fertilize marigolds during growth. Too rich a diet stimulates lush foliage at the expense of flowers.
The densely double flowerheads of the African marigolds tend to rot in wet weather.
Add a layer of mulch between plants to suppress weeds and keep soil moist, especially when plants are young.
PESTS/DISEASES
Farmers and gardeners have long known that marigolds make important companion plants all over the garden. The underground workings of the marigold will repel nematodes (microscopic worms) and other pests for up to 3 years.
Marigolds have few pests or problems. Mites and aphids sometimes infest marigolds. Usually a spray of water or an insecticidal soap, repeated every other day for a week or two, will solve the problem
Occasionally marigolds will get a fungal infection if it’s often wet. Avoid watering on the leaves, keep weeds down, and plant in well-drained soil.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Lilium
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Varies
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
These hearty bulbs are easy to grow and require minimal care, provided that you plant them in the right place.
At home in both formal and naturalistic settings, most lilies also take readily to containers. Plus, they make wonderful cut flowers, coming in pink, gold, red, orange, and white colors.
Lilies bloom tend to bloom from early summer to fall, depending on the type. By carefully blending early, mid-season, and late varieties into your garden, you will enjoy their magnificent blooms from spring through frost.
PLANTING
Plant lily bulbs in spring or autumn.
Note: Lilies do not thrive in Zones 9 to 10 without a period of refrigeration; they need a cold, dormant period.
Select a site with soil that drains well. How can you tell? After a good rain, find a spot that is the first to dry out. Water trapped beneath the scales may rot the bulb, so a well-drained site is essential.
Also, select a site that gets full sun. For dependable blooms, lilies need six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. If it’s too shady, the stems will attempt to lean towards the sun or get spindly and fall over.
Most of the popular varieties prefer acidic to neutral soil, but some are lime-tolerant or prefer alkaline soils (e.g., Madonna lilies).
Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches. The deep planting encourages the developing stem to send out roots to help stabilize the plant and perhaps eliminate the need for staking. Also, deep planting keeps lily bulbs cool when temperatures soar.
Enrich the soil with leaf mold or well-rotted organic matter to encourage good drainage. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Dig a hole 2 to 3 times as deep as the bulbs are high and set the bulb in the hole pointy side up. Fill the hole with soil and tamp gently.
Space bulbs at a distance equal to 3 times the bulb’s diameter (usually about 8 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety).
For a good effect, plant lilies in groups of 3 to 5 bulbs.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
In active growth, water freely especially if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Keep lilies mulched so that their roots are cool. The mulch should feel moist, but not wet.
Apply a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks from early spring until 6 weeks after flowering.
Keep moist in winter.
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch.
Stake tall lilies.
Lilies do not rebloom, but you can remove the faded flowers so that the plants don’t waste energy making seeds.
Leave the foliage until it turns brown in the fall. This is important so that the plant stores energy for next year’s flowering. Cut down the dead stalks in the late fall or early spring.
Before winter, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch, simply to delay the ground freeze and allow the roots to keep growing. Leave the mulch until spring once the last hard frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring. Just lift them and divide into clumps. Replant using compost and bonemeal.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold is sometimes a problem, especially in a wet, cool spring or summer. Make sure lilies are not crowded and have plenty of air circulation.
Viruses, spread by aphids, may be troublesome, although some cultivars are virus-tolerant.
Red lily beetles, slugs, and snails may occur.
Deer, rabbits, voles, and groundhogs may eat entire plants. If these critters are a problem, plant the bulbs in buried wire cages to protect them from getting eaten.
PLANT TYPE: Flower
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Varies
FLOWER COLOR: OrangePinkWhiteYellow
BLOOM TIME: SpringSummerFall
SPECIAL FEATURES: Attracts Butterflies
These hearty bulbs are easy to grow and require minimal care, provided that you plant them in the right place.
At home in both formal and naturalistic settings, most lilies also take readily to containers. Plus, they make wonderful cut flowers, coming in pink, gold, red, orange, and white colors.
Lilies bloom tend to bloom from early summer to fall, depending on the type. By carefully blending early, mid-season, and late varieties into your garden, you will enjoy their magnificent blooms from spring through frost.
PLANTING
Plant lily bulbs in spring or autumn.
Note: Lilies do not thrive in Zones 9 to 10 without a period of refrigeration; they need a cold, dormant period.
Select a site with soil that drains well. How can you tell? After a good rain, find a spot that is the first to dry out. Water trapped beneath the scales may rot the bulb, so a well-drained site is essential.
Also, select a site that gets full sun. For dependable blooms, lilies need six to eight hours of direct sunlight a day. If it’s too shady, the stems will attempt to lean towards the sun or get spindly and fall over.
Most of the popular varieties prefer acidic to neutral soil, but some are lime-tolerant or prefer alkaline soils (e.g., Madonna lilies).
Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches. The deep planting encourages the developing stem to send out roots to help stabilize the plant and perhaps eliminate the need for staking. Also, deep planting keeps lily bulbs cool when temperatures soar.
Enrich the soil with leaf mold or well-rotted organic matter to encourage good drainage. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
Dig a hole 2 to 3 times as deep as the bulbs are high and set the bulb in the hole pointy side up. Fill the hole with soil and tamp gently.
Space bulbs at a distance equal to 3 times the bulb’s diameter (usually about 8 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety).
For a good effect, plant lilies in groups of 3 to 5 bulbs.
Water thoroughly.
CARE
In active growth, water freely especially if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week.
Keep lilies mulched so that their roots are cool. The mulch should feel moist, but not wet.
Apply a high-potassium liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks from early spring until 6 weeks after flowering.
Keep moist in winter.
Apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch.
Stake tall lilies.
Lilies do not rebloom, but you can remove the faded flowers so that the plants don’t waste energy making seeds.
Leave the foliage until it turns brown in the fall. This is important so that the plant stores energy for next year’s flowering. Cut down the dead stalks in the late fall or early spring.
Before winter, add 4 to 6 inches of mulch, simply to delay the ground freeze and allow the roots to keep growing. Leave the mulch until spring once the last hard frost has passed. See your local frost dates.
Divide plants every 3 to 4 years as new growth begins in the spring. Just lift them and divide into clumps. Replant using compost and bonemeal.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold is sometimes a problem, especially in a wet, cool spring or summer. Make sure lilies are not crowded and have plenty of air circulation.
Viruses, spread by aphids, may be troublesome, although some cultivars are virus-tolerant.
Red lily beetles, slugs, and snails may occur.
Deer, rabbits, voles, and groundhogs may eat entire plants. If these critters are a problem, plant the bulbs in buried wire cages to protect them from getting eaten.
1
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Thymus vulgaris
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Thyme is a small perennial shrub with lots of branches and light purple to pink flowers. Here’s how to grow thyme in your own garden.
Thyme is aromatic and has a pleasant, pungent, clover flavor. There are over fifty varieties used in cooking and gardening. English thyme is used most often in cooking.
PLANTING
It’s hard to grow thyme from seeds because of slow, uneven germination. It’s easier to buy the plants or take some cuttings from a friend.
For a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See your local frost dates.)
Plant the seeds/cuttings 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost in well-drained soil about 9 inches apart. For best growth, the soil should be about 70ºF.
The plants should grow 6 to 12 inches in height.
In the garden, plant thyme near cabbage or tomatoes.
CARE
Water normally and remember to trim the plants when they get leggy.
Prune the plants back in the spring and summer to contain the growth. You can take some cuttings and plant them indoors in pots, too.
If you have cold winters, remember to lightly mulch around the plants after the ground freezes.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold
Root rot
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Thyme is a small perennial shrub with lots of branches and light purple to pink flowers. Here’s how to grow thyme in your own garden.
Thyme is aromatic and has a pleasant, pungent, clover flavor. There are over fifty varieties used in cooking and gardening. English thyme is used most often in cooking.
PLANTING
It’s hard to grow thyme from seeds because of slow, uneven germination. It’s easier to buy the plants or take some cuttings from a friend.
For a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See your local frost dates.)
Plant the seeds/cuttings 2 to 3 weeks before the last spring frost in well-drained soil about 9 inches apart. For best growth, the soil should be about 70ºF.
The plants should grow 6 to 12 inches in height.
In the garden, plant thyme near cabbage or tomatoes.
CARE
Water normally and remember to trim the plants when they get leggy.
Prune the plants back in the spring and summer to contain the growth. You can take some cuttings and plant them indoors in pots, too.
If you have cold winters, remember to lightly mulch around the plants after the ground freezes.
PESTS/DISEASES
Gray mold
Root rot
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Salvia officinalis
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Sage is a hardy perennial with soft, grayish green leaves. Here’s how to grow sage in your garden!
Sage produces a variety of flower colors; they can be purple, pink, blue, or white. Common sage is used most commonly for cooking; it’s a classic in stuffing!
PLANTING
Sage can be grown from seeds, but the best way to grow high-quality sage is from cuttings from an established plant.
You can start the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil 1 to 2 weeks before the last spring frost.
Plant the seeds/cuttings 24 to 30 inches apart.
For best growth, the soil should be between 60º and 70ºF.
Plants should grow to be between 12 and 30 inches in height.
In the garden, plant near rosemary, cabbage, and carrots, but keep sage away from cucumbers.
CARE
Be sure to water the young plants regularly until they are fully grown so that they don’t dry out.
Prune the heavier, woody stems every spring.
It’s best to replace the plants every 4 to 5 years to ensure the best quality.
PESTS/DISEASES
Rust
Powdery mildew
Stem rot
Fungal leaf spots
Whiteflies
Aphids
Spider mites
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
Sage is a hardy perennial with soft, grayish green leaves. Here’s how to grow sage in your garden!
Sage produces a variety of flower colors; they can be purple, pink, blue, or white. Common sage is used most commonly for cooking; it’s a classic in stuffing!
PLANTING
Sage can be grown from seeds, but the best way to grow high-quality sage is from cuttings from an established plant.
You can start the seeds/cuttings indoors 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil 1 to 2 weeks before the last spring frost.
Plant the seeds/cuttings 24 to 30 inches apart.
For best growth, the soil should be between 60º and 70ºF.
Plants should grow to be between 12 and 30 inches in height.
In the garden, plant near rosemary, cabbage, and carrots, but keep sage away from cucumbers.
CARE
Be sure to water the young plants regularly until they are fully grown so that they don’t dry out.
Prune the heavier, woody stems every spring.
It’s best to replace the plants every 4 to 5 years to ensure the best quality.
PESTS/DISEASES
Rust
Powdery mildew
Stem rot
Fungal leaf spots
Whiteflies
Aphids
Spider mites
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Petroselinum crispum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Parsley is a biennial plant with bright green, feather-like leaves and is in the same family as dill. Here’s how to grow parsley in your own garden.
This popular herb is used in sauces, salads, and especially soups, as it lessens the need for salt. Not only is parsley the perfect garnish, it’s also good for you; it’s rich in iron and vitamins A and C.
PLANTING
For a head start, plant seeds in individual pots indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost. For better germination, you can soak the seeds overnight.
Plant the seeds 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost because parsley is a slow starter. (The plants can handle the cold weather.) It can take up to 3 weeks for the plants to sprout.
Plant the seeds in moist, rich soil about 6 to 8 inches apart. For thinner plants, plant about 6 to 10 inches apart. Try to pick an area that is weed-free; that way, you’ll be able to see the parsley sprouting after about 3 weeks.
You can use a fluorescent light to help the seedlings grow. Make sure it remains at least two inches above the leaves at all times.
To ensure the best growth, the soil should be around 70ºF.
Plant parsley near asparagus, corn, and tomatoes in your garden.
CARE
Be sure to water the seeds often while they germinate so that they don’t dry out.
Throughout the summer, be sure to water the plants evenly.
PESTS/DISEASES
Stem rot
Leaf spots
Black swallowtail larvae
Carrot fly and celery fly larvae
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full SunPart Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Parsley is a biennial plant with bright green, feather-like leaves and is in the same family as dill. Here’s how to grow parsley in your own garden.
This popular herb is used in sauces, salads, and especially soups, as it lessens the need for salt. Not only is parsley the perfect garnish, it’s also good for you; it’s rich in iron and vitamins A and C.
PLANTING
For a head start, plant seeds in individual pots indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the last spring frost. For better germination, you can soak the seeds overnight.
Plant the seeds 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost because parsley is a slow starter. (The plants can handle the cold weather.) It can take up to 3 weeks for the plants to sprout.
Plant the seeds in moist, rich soil about 6 to 8 inches apart. For thinner plants, plant about 6 to 10 inches apart. Try to pick an area that is weed-free; that way, you’ll be able to see the parsley sprouting after about 3 weeks.
You can use a fluorescent light to help the seedlings grow. Make sure it remains at least two inches above the leaves at all times.
To ensure the best growth, the soil should be around 70ºF.
Plant parsley near asparagus, corn, and tomatoes in your garden.
CARE
Be sure to water the seeds often while they germinate so that they don’t dry out.
Throughout the summer, be sure to water the plants evenly.
PESTS/DISEASES
Stem rot
Leaf spots
Black swallowtail larvae
Carrot fly and celery fly larvae
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Origanum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Oregano is a perennial herb with rose-purple or white flowers and a taste reminiscent of thyme. Here’s how to grow oregano plants in your garden—plus, delicious recipes using oregano.
Oregano’s taste is zesty and strong and is commonly used in Italian dishes. It is a hardy plant and makes for a good ground cover.
PLANTING
Oregano loves the sun, so ensure that your placement has full, strong sun for strong flavor. Some folks plant later in the season for assured warm weather.
However, for a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Oregano can easily be started from seeds, though you can also use cuttings from an established plant.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil anytime after the last spring frost. The soil should be around 70ºF.
For thin plants, plant 8 to 10 inches apart. The plants will grow 1 to 2 feet tall and spread about 18 inches.
Oregano makes a good companion plant for any vegetable in the garden.
CARE
Allow oregano plants to grow to about 4 inches tall and then pinch or trim lightly to encourage a denser and bushier plant.
Regular trimming will not only cause the plant to branch again, but also avoid legginess.
Oregano doesn’t need quite as much water as most herbs. As the amount of watering depends on many variables, just water when the soil feels dry to the touch. Remember that it’s better to water thoroughly and less often.
If you have a container, water until the water comes out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
To ensure the best-quality plants, thin out plants that are 3 or 4 years old in the early spring. Oregano is self-seeding, so the plants will easily grow back.
You can divide the plants in late spring if you want to put one indoors.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root and stem rots
Aphids
Spider mites
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Oregano is a perennial herb with rose-purple or white flowers and a taste reminiscent of thyme. Here’s how to grow oregano plants in your garden—plus, delicious recipes using oregano.
Oregano’s taste is zesty and strong and is commonly used in Italian dishes. It is a hardy plant and makes for a good ground cover.
PLANTING
Oregano loves the sun, so ensure that your placement has full, strong sun for strong flavor. Some folks plant later in the season for assured warm weather.
However, for a head start, plant the seeds/cuttings 6 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.)
Oregano can easily be started from seeds, though you can also use cuttings from an established plant.
Plant the seeds/cuttings in well-drained soil anytime after the last spring frost. The soil should be around 70ºF.
For thin plants, plant 8 to 10 inches apart. The plants will grow 1 to 2 feet tall and spread about 18 inches.
Oregano makes a good companion plant for any vegetable in the garden.
CARE
Allow oregano plants to grow to about 4 inches tall and then pinch or trim lightly to encourage a denser and bushier plant.
Regular trimming will not only cause the plant to branch again, but also avoid legginess.
Oregano doesn’t need quite as much water as most herbs. As the amount of watering depends on many variables, just water when the soil feels dry to the touch. Remember that it’s better to water thoroughly and less often.
If you have a container, water until the water comes out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the container.
To ensure the best-quality plants, thin out plants that are 3 or 4 years old in the early spring. Oregano is self-seeding, so the plants will easily grow back.
You can divide the plants in late spring if you want to put one indoors.
PESTS/DISEASES
Root and stem rots
Aphids
Spider mites
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME: Anethum graveolens
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Dill is an annual, self-seeding plant with feathery green leaves. It is used most commonly in soups and stews and for pickling. Dill weed is easy to grow and attracts beneficial insects such as wasps and other predatory insects to your garden.
If you’re planting dill for pickling, plant every few weeks into midsummer to ensure a constant supply!
To create a permanent dill weed patch, allow some of the seeds to self-sow each year—you’ll have plenty of early dill to start the season.
PLANTING
Sow dill seeds about ¼-inch deep and 18 inches apart in rich soil, then gently rake the seeds into the soil. The soil should be between 60 and 70ºF for best results.
Dill weed does not grow well when transplanted, so start the seeds fresh in the garden in early summer. Make sure to shelter the plants from strong winds.
After 10 to 14 days, the plants should appear in the soil. Wait another 10 to 14 days, then thin the plants to about 12 to 18 inches apart.
In your garden, plant dill next to cabbage or onions, but keep it away from carrots.
CARE
Water the plants freely during the growing season.
In order to ensure a season-long fresh supply of dill, continue sowing seeds every few weeks. For an extended harvest, do not allow flowers to grow on the plants.
If the soil remains undisturbed throughout the growing season, more dill plants will grow the next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf spot and occasionally a few other types of fungal leaf and root diseases
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
Dill is an annual, self-seeding plant with feathery green leaves. It is used most commonly in soups and stews and for pickling. Dill weed is easy to grow and attracts beneficial insects such as wasps and other predatory insects to your garden.
If you’re planting dill for pickling, plant every few weeks into midsummer to ensure a constant supply!
To create a permanent dill weed patch, allow some of the seeds to self-sow each year—you’ll have plenty of early dill to start the season.
PLANTING
Sow dill seeds about ¼-inch deep and 18 inches apart in rich soil, then gently rake the seeds into the soil. The soil should be between 60 and 70ºF for best results.
Dill weed does not grow well when transplanted, so start the seeds fresh in the garden in early summer. Make sure to shelter the plants from strong winds.
After 10 to 14 days, the plants should appear in the soil. Wait another 10 to 14 days, then thin the plants to about 12 to 18 inches apart.
In your garden, plant dill next to cabbage or onions, but keep it away from carrots.
CARE
Water the plants freely during the growing season.
In order to ensure a season-long fresh supply of dill, continue sowing seeds every few weeks. For an extended harvest, do not allow flowers to grow on the plants.
If the soil remains undisturbed throughout the growing season, more dill plants will grow the next season.
PESTS/DISEASES
Leaf spot and occasionally a few other types of fungal leaf and root diseases
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月05日
BOTANICAL NAME:
Allium schoenoprasum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
Chives are a perennial member of the onion family that sport beautiful purple flowers. Here’s how to grow chives in your garden!
Chives are cool-season, cold-tolerant perennials that are planted in early spring.
Be mindful when planting this herb, as it will take over your garden if the flowers are left to ripen (the flowers scatter the seeds). However, this plant is easy to dig up and moved if it overwhelms your garden.
PLANTING
Chives prefer full sun.
Soil needs to be moist, fertile, rich, and well-draining. Before planting, incorporate 4 to 6 inches of well-composted organic matter. Apply 2 to 3 tablespoons of all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per square foot of planting area. Work compost and fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. (Read more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
For a head start, start the seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.) Transplants need good growth before being set in the garden.
If you are growing from seed, sow as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. For the best growth, the soil should be around 60º to 70ºF.
Plant seeds ¼ inch deep and final plant spacing should be 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions.
CARE
It is important to give chives consistent watering throughout the growing season for high yields. Moisten the soil thoroughly when watering.
Use mulch to conserve moisture and keep the weeds down.
For good production, sidedress with fertilizer in May and July with 1 teaspoon of 21-0-0 per square foot.
Minimal care is needed for fully grown plants.
After the flowers bloom, be sure to remove them so that the seeds aren’t spread throughout your garden.
Plants grow to be 12 to 24 inches tall and may spread a foot across.
Remember to divide the plants every 3 to 4 years in the spring. Chives are much more productive if divided regularly. Allow divided plants to grow for several weeks before harvesting.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bulb rots (caused by soilborne fungi)
White rot
Mildew
Rust
Smut
Various fungal leaf spots (such as purple blotch and gray mold)
Onion fly
Thrips
Allium schoenoprasum
PLANT TYPE: Herb
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: LoamySandy
FLOWER COLOR: Purple
Chives are a perennial member of the onion family that sport beautiful purple flowers. Here’s how to grow chives in your garden!
Chives are cool-season, cold-tolerant perennials that are planted in early spring.
Be mindful when planting this herb, as it will take over your garden if the flowers are left to ripen (the flowers scatter the seeds). However, this plant is easy to dig up and moved if it overwhelms your garden.
PLANTING
Chives prefer full sun.
Soil needs to be moist, fertile, rich, and well-draining. Before planting, incorporate 4 to 6 inches of well-composted organic matter. Apply 2 to 3 tablespoons of all-purpose fertilizer (16-16-8) per square foot of planting area. Work compost and fertilizer into the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. (Read more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)
For a head start, start the seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost. (See local frost dates.) Transplants need good growth before being set in the garden.
If you are growing from seed, sow as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. For the best growth, the soil should be around 60º to 70ºF.
Plant seeds ¼ inch deep and final plant spacing should be 4 to 6 inches apart in all directions.
CARE
It is important to give chives consistent watering throughout the growing season for high yields. Moisten the soil thoroughly when watering.
Use mulch to conserve moisture and keep the weeds down.
For good production, sidedress with fertilizer in May and July with 1 teaspoon of 21-0-0 per square foot.
Minimal care is needed for fully grown plants.
After the flowers bloom, be sure to remove them so that the seeds aren’t spread throughout your garden.
Plants grow to be 12 to 24 inches tall and may spread a foot across.
Remember to divide the plants every 3 to 4 years in the spring. Chives are much more productive if divided regularly. Allow divided plants to grow for several weeks before harvesting.
PESTS/DISEASES
Bulb rots (caused by soilborne fungi)
White rot
Mildew
Rust
Smut
Various fungal leaf spots (such as purple blotch and gray mold)
Onion fly
Thrips
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1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
To prevent a tree from being pot-bound and ultimately starving to death, regular repotting is crucial. Re-potting your Bonsai will not keep it small; instead it will supply the tree with new nutrients that it needs to grow and flourish.
How often should I repot?
It depends on the size of container/pot and tree species how often a Bonsai needs to be repotted. Fast growing trees need to be repotted every two years (sometimes even every year), while older, more mature trees need to be repotted every three to five years. Do not repot on a routine, instead check on your trees every early spring by carefully removing the tree from its pot. A Bonsai needs to be repotted when the roots circle around the root system. When the roots are still contained in soil wait another year before checking again.
When?
Repotting work normally needs to be done during the early spring; when the tree is still in dormancy. This way the somewhat damaging effect of repotting on a tree is reduced to a minimum, as the tree does not yet have to sustain a full-grown foliage. Repotting in early spring will also ensure that damage done to the root system will be repaired soon, as soon as the tree starts growing.
Bonsai soil mixture
Choosing the right soil mixture is crucial for the health of your trees, it should be draining enough to prevent the roots from rotting, while absorbing enough water to supply the tree with water. Although some tree species need special soil mixtures, the following mixture is suitable for most trees:
Mix Akadama, pumice and lava rock together in a ratio of 2:1:1. When you do not have time to water your trees regularly, choose a more water absorbing mixture (use more Akadama), while you should choose a more draining mixture (use more lava rock) when living in a wet climate.
How often should I repot?
It depends on the size of container/pot and tree species how often a Bonsai needs to be repotted. Fast growing trees need to be repotted every two years (sometimes even every year), while older, more mature trees need to be repotted every three to five years. Do not repot on a routine, instead check on your trees every early spring by carefully removing the tree from its pot. A Bonsai needs to be repotted when the roots circle around the root system. When the roots are still contained in soil wait another year before checking again.
When?
Repotting work normally needs to be done during the early spring; when the tree is still in dormancy. This way the somewhat damaging effect of repotting on a tree is reduced to a minimum, as the tree does not yet have to sustain a full-grown foliage. Repotting in early spring will also ensure that damage done to the root system will be repaired soon, as soon as the tree starts growing.
Bonsai soil mixture
Choosing the right soil mixture is crucial for the health of your trees, it should be draining enough to prevent the roots from rotting, while absorbing enough water to supply the tree with water. Although some tree species need special soil mixtures, the following mixture is suitable for most trees:
Mix Akadama, pumice and lava rock together in a ratio of 2:1:1. When you do not have time to water your trees regularly, choose a more water absorbing mixture (use more Akadama), while you should choose a more draining mixture (use more lava rock) when living in a wet climate.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Haworthia are delightful little succulents that form very attractive and singular small houseplants. Generally easy to grow, the same best practices that yield healthy aloe and echeveria plants will also produce beautiful Haworthia.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Don't overwater, but don’t also let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant.
When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings—they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia.
As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
In terms of appeal, these small, low growing plants form rosettes of fleshy green leaves that are generously covered with white, pearly warts or bands, giving them a distinctive appearance.
Just like other succulents, these plants appreciate bright light, adequate moisture in the summer, and relatively drier conditions in the winter. Don't overwater, but don’t also let them dry out too much.
Growing Conditions
Light: Bright light, but not direct sunlight. These grow in similar conditions to other succulents. White or yellow leaves usually signify too much sun.
Water: Water evenly and generously in the summer, letting the soil media dry out between waterings. In the winter, reduce watering to every other month. Never allow water to collect in the rosette.
Temperature: Warmer summers but cool in the winter (down to 50 degrees F).
Soil: Use a cactus mix or very fast-draining potting soil mixed with sand.
Fertilizer: Fertilize during the summer growing season with a cactus fertilizer. Don't feed during the winter.
Propagation
Haworthia can be propagated at repotting time using offsets from the mother plant.
When taking offsets, use a sharp knife or snippers and cut as close to the mother stem as possible to including as many roots as possible, then allow the offset to dry briefly before repotting it (similar to cuttings from other succulents). Pot the offsets in a small pot, using the same soil as the mother plant, put it a warm, bright spot, and make sure to adequately water.
Repotting
Haworthia are small (usually remaining between 3" and 5" in height) and relatively slow-growing. They are often grown in small clusters in wide, shallow dishes. Over time, clusters will naturally enlarge as the mother plant sends off small plantlets.
When the cluster has outgrown its dish, repot in the spring or early summer into a new wide and shallow dish with fresh potting soil. This is also the time to take offsets for propagation.
Varieties
There are about 80 species of Haworthia, but their classification can be complex. The main difference between the common species is the size of the leaves and the orientation of the white markings on the leaves. H. margaritifera has warty white projections on the leaves, while H. fasciata features horizontal white stripes and is sometimes called the zebra plant.
Some of the species, such as H. bolusii have "tufted" edges to the leaves, while H. attenuata features long, pointed green leaves. In general, the best advice is to buy the most attractive variety based on leaf form and markings—they all have similar cultural requirements.
Grower's Tips
Haworthia are not considered difficult houseplants to grow—if you can keep a pot of aloe alive on a windowsill, chances are you can do the same with a dish of Haworthia.
As with all succulents, the most dangerous situation is too much water—they should never be allowed to sit in water under any circumstances.
At the same time, these decorative little plants can be grown in interesting containers such as tea cups and even miniature baby shoes. If you're given a Haworthia in such a container, make sure the container had adequate drainage. If it doesn't, it might be a good idea to pop the plant out of its container and add a layer of gravel to the bottom to reduce the wicking action of the soil above.
Finally, look out for sunburned spots on your plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Echeveria are very popular succulents that grow in attractive rosettes with beautiful leaves in a variety of colors and sometimes stunning flowers. These plants have been extensively hybridized, so in addition to the main species, there are many varieties that have been specially bred for interesting leaf form and color.
Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Members of the Crassulaceae family, their care is similar to sedum and kalanchoe succulents.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65 degrees F - 70 degrees F). In winter, cool to 50 degrees F.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide.
Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot.
Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Varieties
There are many popular Echeveria, both species and hybrids. In nature, Echeveria are native to Mexico, the United States, and down into South America. Some of the more beautiful Echeveria include the blue Echeveria (E. glauca and E. laui), firecracker plant (E. setosa), painted lady (E. derenbergii), and E. agavoides.
Grower's Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant.
Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
Most Echeveria will remain fairly small (a few inches to a foot across), but some species will grow to small shrub-like plants of 2 feet.
Members of the Crassulaceae family, their care is similar to sedum and kalanchoe succulents.
Growing Conditions
Light: Full sun. Perfect for a sunny window.
Water: Water during the summer and spring, making sure drainage is immaculate. Reduce water in the winter to monthly.
Temperature: Prefers average summer temps (65 degrees F - 70 degrees F). In winter, cool to 50 degrees F.
Soil: A well-drained succulent mix, with an ideal pH around 6.0 (slightly acidic).
Fertilizer: Feed with a controlled-release fertilizer in the beginning of the season or weekly with a weak liquid solution. Use a balanced 20-20-20 fertilizer at 1/4 strength on mature plants, and a fertilizer with less nitrogen on young plants.
Propagation
Most Echeveria can be easily propagated from leaf cuttings, although a few are better from seeds or stem cuttings. To propagate a leaf cutting, place the individual leaf in a succulent or cacti mix and cover the dish until the new plant sprouts.
Repotting
Repot as needed, preferably during the warm season. To repot a succulent, make sure the soil is dry before repotting, then gently remove the pot. Knock away the old soil from the roots, making sure to remove any rotted or dead roots in the process. Treat any cuts with a fungicide.
Place the plant in its new pot and backfill with potting soil, spreading the roots out as you repot.
Leave the plant dry for a week or so, then begin to water lightly to reduce the risk of root rot.
Varieties
There are many popular Echeveria, both species and hybrids. In nature, Echeveria are native to Mexico, the United States, and down into South America. Some of the more beautiful Echeveria include the blue Echeveria (E. glauca and E. laui), firecracker plant (E. setosa), painted lady (E. derenbergii), and E. agavoides.
Grower's Tips
Most of the common Echeveria species are not complicated succulents to grow, provided you follow a few basic rules. First, be careful never to let water sit in the rosette as it can cause rot or fungal diseases that will kill the plant.
Additionally, remove dead leaves from the bottom of the plant as it grows. These dead leaves provide a haven for pests, and Echeveria are susceptible to mealy bugs. As with all succulents, careful watering habits and plenty of light will help ensure success.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
To get the best results from your garden, including bountiful blooms, lush foliage and an abundance of fruit and vegetables, you've got to give your plants the foods they crave. But you don't have to turn to mystery chemicals to make your garden grow; you can choose safe, non-toxic fertilizers that work just as well. Organic plant food is made from natural sources including bone meal, fish emulsion and manure.
What makes plant food organic? Simply put, when plant food is described as organic, that means it comes from a plant or animal source rather than from a laboratory. Nearly any organic material can be used as plant food. The type of organic plant food that should be used depends on what you're growing, and the nutrients that are required by those plants.
Here are 5 common types of organic plant food, along with information that will help you decide which one is right for your needs.
1. Bone meal is made from steamed and crushed animal bones and is rich in phosphorous, a mineral that plants need for healthy root development and flower growth. It also supplies calcium and a little bit of nitrogen. That makes it a great supplement for bulbs and roses. A little bone meal goes a long way, with just one tablespoon needed for every two square feet.
2. Blood meal is an ideal natural source of nitrogen, which is the main nutrient that virtually all plants need to grow. Nitrogen is a crucial component of plant cells and one of the building blocks of chlorophyll, the substance that enables plants to convert sunlight into sugars. Blood meal increases the yield of fruits and vegetables, adding lots of leafy green growth, and can also help keep deer out of the garden.
3. Cottonseed meal is a slow-release organic fertilizer with high nitrogen content. A by-product of cotton manufacturing, this organic plant food is slightly acidic, so it's perfect for acid-loving plants like azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. It releases nutrients over an extended period of time. Cottonseed meal is a popular natural way to achieve lush green lawns.
4. Fish emulsion is a decomposed blend of finely pulverized fish left over from commercial processing, which contains a very high concentration of nitrogen. This powerful natural plant food can be used in very small quantities to give plants a major boost in growth, especially when applied early in the spring season. It does have a fish odor, but the smell goes away within about 24 hours.
5. Manure is perhaps the best-known organic plant food. Manure used as fertilizer may come from horses, cows, pigs, chicken or sheep. While applying manure to your plants may sound like a smelly and potentially unhygienic undertaking, commercially prepared manure plant food like Miracle-Gro Organic Choice is pasteurized in a unique process that kills harmful bacteria as well as weed seeds, reducing odors.
What makes plant food organic? Simply put, when plant food is described as organic, that means it comes from a plant or animal source rather than from a laboratory. Nearly any organic material can be used as plant food. The type of organic plant food that should be used depends on what you're growing, and the nutrients that are required by those plants.
Here are 5 common types of organic plant food, along with information that will help you decide which one is right for your needs.
1. Bone meal is made from steamed and crushed animal bones and is rich in phosphorous, a mineral that plants need for healthy root development and flower growth. It also supplies calcium and a little bit of nitrogen. That makes it a great supplement for bulbs and roses. A little bone meal goes a long way, with just one tablespoon needed for every two square feet.
2. Blood meal is an ideal natural source of nitrogen, which is the main nutrient that virtually all plants need to grow. Nitrogen is a crucial component of plant cells and one of the building blocks of chlorophyll, the substance that enables plants to convert sunlight into sugars. Blood meal increases the yield of fruits and vegetables, adding lots of leafy green growth, and can also help keep deer out of the garden.
3. Cottonseed meal is a slow-release organic fertilizer with high nitrogen content. A by-product of cotton manufacturing, this organic plant food is slightly acidic, so it's perfect for acid-loving plants like azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. It releases nutrients over an extended period of time. Cottonseed meal is a popular natural way to achieve lush green lawns.
4. Fish emulsion is a decomposed blend of finely pulverized fish left over from commercial processing, which contains a very high concentration of nitrogen. This powerful natural plant food can be used in very small quantities to give plants a major boost in growth, especially when applied early in the spring season. It does have a fish odor, but the smell goes away within about 24 hours.
5. Manure is perhaps the best-known organic plant food. Manure used as fertilizer may come from horses, cows, pigs, chicken or sheep. While applying manure to your plants may sound like a smelly and potentially unhygienic undertaking, commercially prepared manure plant food like Miracle-Gro Organic Choice is pasteurized in a unique process that kills harmful bacteria as well as weed seeds, reducing odors.
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Michub63：Hi. do you now something about EM?
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
The first step to setting up your first hydroponic garden is selecting a system that best fits your needs. Important factors to consider include, how much space you have, what you want to grow and how much, cost, and how much time you have to spend maintaining the system. The three most basic setups recommended for beginners are Wick, Water Culture, and Ebb & Flow. All 3 of these systems can be built from separate components or bought complete either online or in a hydroponics store.
Wick Systems
Wicke systems are by and large the most simple and easiest to set up because there are no moving parts. The system contains a reservoir filled with water and nutrients and above it, a container filled with growing medium. The two containers are connected by a wick, which draws the nutrient-filled water up into the growing medium where it is happily absorbed by your plants. This system is great for learning the basics, but may not work well with large or water-hungry plants such as lettuce, because the wick cannot supply water fast enough. This system works extremely well with micro greens, herbs, and peppers.
Water Culture
It is another extremely simple system to set up. In this system, the plants are placed into a Styrofoam platform that sits right on top of the reservoir. An air pump is added to the reservoir to deliver oxygen to the roots. This system is ideally suited for water-hungry plants, but not for more long-term plants such as tomatoes.
Ebb & Flow
Ebb & Flow systems are slightly more complex but are extremely versatile. This system works by flooding the growing medium with a solution and then draining it back into the reservoir. To do this, you need a submersible pump with a timer. One of the greatest advantages of Ebb & Flow is that you can use the timer to customize your plants’ watering schedule based on the plant size, number of plants, temperature, humidity, etc.
You also have the option of potting plants individually for easy customization or filling the entire tray with growing medium and planting directly in the tray.
Choosing What to Grow
Just about any plant can be grown hydroponically, but for beginners, it is best to start small. The best choices are herbs and vegetables that grow quickly, require little maintenance, and do not have a huge variety of nutrient needs. You want fast-growing plants so that you can assess how well your system works and tweak it as necessary. It would be a real letdown to wait months until harvest time only to find out your system is not working properly. Maintenance-free plants are great for beginners because they allow you to focus on learning about your system- you can move on to more complex veggies later. If you are growing a variety of plants, it is also important to make sure that they are similar in their nutrient requirements, so that they grow well together.
Good Starter Plants
Greens such as lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, and kale.
Herbs such as basil, parsley, oregano, cilantro and mint
White palm
Epipremnum aureum
Chlorophytum
Wick Systems
Wicke systems are by and large the most simple and easiest to set up because there are no moving parts. The system contains a reservoir filled with water and nutrients and above it, a container filled with growing medium. The two containers are connected by a wick, which draws the nutrient-filled water up into the growing medium where it is happily absorbed by your plants. This system is great for learning the basics, but may not work well with large or water-hungry plants such as lettuce, because the wick cannot supply water fast enough. This system works extremely well with micro greens, herbs, and peppers.
Water Culture
It is another extremely simple system to set up. In this system, the plants are placed into a Styrofoam platform that sits right on top of the reservoir. An air pump is added to the reservoir to deliver oxygen to the roots. This system is ideally suited for water-hungry plants, but not for more long-term plants such as tomatoes.
Ebb & Flow
Ebb & Flow systems are slightly more complex but are extremely versatile. This system works by flooding the growing medium with a solution and then draining it back into the reservoir. To do this, you need a submersible pump with a timer. One of the greatest advantages of Ebb & Flow is that you can use the timer to customize your plants’ watering schedule based on the plant size, number of plants, temperature, humidity, etc.
You also have the option of potting plants individually for easy customization or filling the entire tray with growing medium and planting directly in the tray.
Choosing What to Grow
Just about any plant can be grown hydroponically, but for beginners, it is best to start small. The best choices are herbs and vegetables that grow quickly, require little maintenance, and do not have a huge variety of nutrient needs. You want fast-growing plants so that you can assess how well your system works and tweak it as necessary. It would be a real letdown to wait months until harvest time only to find out your system is not working properly. Maintenance-free plants are great for beginners because they allow you to focus on learning about your system- you can move on to more complex veggies later. If you are growing a variety of plants, it is also important to make sure that they are similar in their nutrient requirements, so that they grow well together.
Good Starter Plants
Greens such as lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, and kale.
Herbs such as basil, parsley, oregano, cilantro and mint
White palm
Epipremnum aureum
Chlorophytum
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Orchids belong to one of the largest plant families. There are almost 30,000 species of orchids, though most gardeners will likely only grow a handful of species commonly sold at garden and home improvement centers. These types are popular because they survive—and even thrive—within a typical home environment. The biggest tip for being a successful orchid grower is simply to not be afraid. They look exotic and fussy, but most orchids really aren’t. You can grow beautiful orchids at home. Here’s how.
How to Choose the Right Orchid for your Growing Conditions
Most likely you’ll be growing one of a handful of orchids that are easy to find for sale. Phalaenopsis, sometimes called “moth orchid,” is the easiest to grow and what you find for sale at the grocery store. It likes low light and humid (but not stagnant) air. An east window is perfect for these plants. Other types of common orchids, such as oncidium, dendrobium, vanda, and cattleya, need more light and will thrive in a bright east window or west window as long as the sun is not shining directly on the plants. Select an orchid type that will thrive in the light conditions you can offer. You’ll also want to make sure the room temperature is between 65° and 80°F, as orchids are tropical plants that require a warm environment.
How to Water Orchids
Orchids grow best with consistent moisture. For home gardeners this translates to watering once or twice per week by holding the pot under the faucet and allowing the potting mix to be thoroughly soaked by lukewarm water. Take care not to let water sit in the leaves, as this can cause disease problems.
How to Make Orchids Rebloom
This is one of the biggest mysteries to new orchid growers! First, cut back the flower stalk to the first leaf after the plant blooms. Some orchid varieties will rebloom on the same stalk, while others will sprout a secondary bloom stalk at the end of the main stalk. Some plants take up to a year to grow a new flower stalk and rebloom. Many orchids respond to a period of cooler night temperatures in the fall. Try setting your plants outside as nighttime temperatures drop to fifty degrees overnight. Leave plants outside for a few weeks, and then bring in and resume fertilizing. Be patient. Your orchids will bloom again!
How to Help Prevent Orchid Pests
Good care goes a long way toward keeping pests and diseases from killing the plants or destroying the blooms. One additional thing you can do is to improve air circulation by placing a small house fan in the room where you grow orchids and setting it to rotate on the low setting. This will help keep bacterial and fungal pests at bay.
How to Choose the Right Orchid for your Growing Conditions
Most likely you’ll be growing one of a handful of orchids that are easy to find for sale. Phalaenopsis, sometimes called “moth orchid,” is the easiest to grow and what you find for sale at the grocery store. It likes low light and humid (but not stagnant) air. An east window is perfect for these plants. Other types of common orchids, such as oncidium, dendrobium, vanda, and cattleya, need more light and will thrive in a bright east window or west window as long as the sun is not shining directly on the plants. Select an orchid type that will thrive in the light conditions you can offer. You’ll also want to make sure the room temperature is between 65° and 80°F, as orchids are tropical plants that require a warm environment.
How to Water Orchids
Orchids grow best with consistent moisture. For home gardeners this translates to watering once or twice per week by holding the pot under the faucet and allowing the potting mix to be thoroughly soaked by lukewarm water. Take care not to let water sit in the leaves, as this can cause disease problems.
How to Make Orchids Rebloom
This is one of the biggest mysteries to new orchid growers! First, cut back the flower stalk to the first leaf after the plant blooms. Some orchid varieties will rebloom on the same stalk, while others will sprout a secondary bloom stalk at the end of the main stalk. Some plants take up to a year to grow a new flower stalk and rebloom. Many orchids respond to a period of cooler night temperatures in the fall. Try setting your plants outside as nighttime temperatures drop to fifty degrees overnight. Leave plants outside for a few weeks, and then bring in and resume fertilizing. Be patient. Your orchids will bloom again!
How to Help Prevent Orchid Pests
Good care goes a long way toward keeping pests and diseases from killing the plants or destroying the blooms. One additional thing you can do is to improve air circulation by placing a small house fan in the room where you grow orchids and setting it to rotate on the low setting. This will help keep bacterial and fungal pests at bay.
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