文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
To brighten your summer garden with vividly colored flowers, include zinnias (Zinnia elegans) when choosing plants. An old-fashioned favorite that's especially easy-to-grow, the zinnia plant produces masses of colorful blossom throughout summer and early fall. Zinnias grow as annuals in all parts of the United States, thriving in any sunny spot when given just basic care and some trimming now and then.
Off to a Good Start
Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall.
To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches.
Watering and Feeding
Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth.
Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible.
Trimming and Deadheading
Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease.
As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring.
Preventing Problems
Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry.
Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
Off to a Good Start
Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall.
To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches.
Watering and Feeding
Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth.
Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible.
Trimming and Deadheading
Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease.
As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring.
Preventing Problems
Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry.
Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
With their showy flowers and low-maintenance needs, bottlebrush trees (Callistemon spp.) are often chosen in warm growing zones for hedges or statement plants. They grow best in full sun and soil with low alkalinity, but other than that aren't very picky about where you plant them.
Soil Preparation
Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants.
You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes.
Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that.
Planting Tips
Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball.
When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart.
In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers.
After-Planting Care
Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water.
After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist.
To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
Soil Preparation
Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants.
You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes.
Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that.
Planting Tips
Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball.
When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart.
In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers.
After-Planting Care
Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water.
After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist.
To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Impatiens grow in partial to full shade, filling dark corners with brilliant color from late spring until frost. According to the University of Vermont Extension, impatiens are the top-selling bedding pant in the United States, and it is no wonder. These tender annuals come in a wide range of colors and require little care other than consistent watering, occasional deadheading and a quick pruning to keep them blooming all summer.
Step 1
Prune or cut back impatiens in midsummer if they cease blooming or become leggy. High temperatures, lack of adequate water during dry spells and lack of adequate fertilizer may result in a temporary drop of blooms, or they may cease blooming altogether. Pruning the plant revitalizes it and forces new blooms.
Step 2
Use garden shears to trim the terminal ends of impatiens stems to form a rounded plant. Leggy plants benefit from cutting back to 4 to 6 inches. Not only does this force new blooms, it encourages vigorous growth of foliage as well, and forces the stems to branch out, creating a full, compact plant.
Step 3
Maintain the shape of the plant by pinching out center leaves as they appear. This forces side shoot to emerge along the main stem. Reduce pinching once the plant develops the desired shape and allow to bloom. Deadhead blooms to prolong blooming.
Step 1
Prune or cut back impatiens in midsummer if they cease blooming or become leggy. High temperatures, lack of adequate water during dry spells and lack of adequate fertilizer may result in a temporary drop of blooms, or they may cease blooming altogether. Pruning the plant revitalizes it and forces new blooms.
Step 2
Use garden shears to trim the terminal ends of impatiens stems to form a rounded plant. Leggy plants benefit from cutting back to 4 to 6 inches. Not only does this force new blooms, it encourages vigorous growth of foliage as well, and forces the stems to branch out, creating a full, compact plant.
Step 3
Maintain the shape of the plant by pinching out center leaves as they appear. This forces side shoot to emerge along the main stem. Reduce pinching once the plant develops the desired shape and allow to bloom. Deadhead blooms to prolong blooming.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Often referred to and grown as annuals, petunias (Petunia spp.) are technically warm climate perennials. They grow year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. These brightly colored flowers grow quickly and flower abundantly, making them ideal for adding color to window boxes, flowerbeds and planters. If you can't grow them year-round, grow petunias as annuals for dazzling spring, summer and early fall color.
The Difference
A true annual goes to seed after flowing and dies shortly after that in all climates. Petunias act like annuals in frosty areas, dying back with the first cold snap. As a mild climate perennial, however, petunias have the ability to grow year-round in the right climate. They like mild, frost-free winters, and summers that rarely rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, with low humidity. Most areas don't provide these specific requirements, so petunias are most commonly grown as warm season annuals in frost-prone areas and as cool season annuals in tropical and subtropical areas.
Warm Season Annuals
Plant petunias outdoors in the spring after the last frost date when the soil warms up to 60 degrees F. Plant petunias from starts or seedlings. If you want to grow them from seed, start petunias indoors in a seed flat 10 to 12 weeks before your spring planting date. Plant starts in a spot that gets full sun at least six hours per day, with well draining soil. After the first frost, remove the spent petunia plants, and plan to replant starts in the spring.
Finicky Warm Climate Perennials
In frost-free regions where summers tend to get hot, plant petunias in the fall. You'll have flowers through the winter and spring months. Often, petunias will fade or burn out in the summer when temperatures go above 90 F. When petunias get faded and wilted during a hot summer, remove them and then replant in the fall when temperatures drop back down reliably below 90 F. Petunias only grow year-round as a true perennial in areas with mild winters and cool summers.
Overwintering Petunias
While petunias are plentiful and relatively inexpensive at the beginning of the growing season it is possible -- though they can be difficult to keep alive indoors -- to overwinter the plants. Dig out the root ball in the fall before frost, and transplant the petunias into nursery pots. Keep them indoors in bright light through the winter. Water when the soil dries out and mist the leaves with clean water every few days. Any room temperature area above 55 F but below 90 F will keep petunias happy through the winter. In the spring, replant petunias outdoors.
The Difference
A true annual goes to seed after flowing and dies shortly after that in all climates. Petunias act like annuals in frosty areas, dying back with the first cold snap. As a mild climate perennial, however, petunias have the ability to grow year-round in the right climate. They like mild, frost-free winters, and summers that rarely rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, with low humidity. Most areas don't provide these specific requirements, so petunias are most commonly grown as warm season annuals in frost-prone areas and as cool season annuals in tropical and subtropical areas.
Warm Season Annuals
Plant petunias outdoors in the spring after the last frost date when the soil warms up to 60 degrees F. Plant petunias from starts or seedlings. If you want to grow them from seed, start petunias indoors in a seed flat 10 to 12 weeks before your spring planting date. Plant starts in a spot that gets full sun at least six hours per day, with well draining soil. After the first frost, remove the spent petunia plants, and plan to replant starts in the spring.
Finicky Warm Climate Perennials
In frost-free regions where summers tend to get hot, plant petunias in the fall. You'll have flowers through the winter and spring months. Often, petunias will fade or burn out in the summer when temperatures go above 90 F. When petunias get faded and wilted during a hot summer, remove them and then replant in the fall when temperatures drop back down reliably below 90 F. Petunias only grow year-round as a true perennial in areas with mild winters and cool summers.
Overwintering Petunias
While petunias are plentiful and relatively inexpensive at the beginning of the growing season it is possible -- though they can be difficult to keep alive indoors -- to overwinter the plants. Dig out the root ball in the fall before frost, and transplant the petunias into nursery pots. Keep them indoors in bright light through the winter. Water when the soil dries out and mist the leaves with clean water every few days. Any room temperature area above 55 F but below 90 F will keep petunias happy through the winter. In the spring, replant petunias outdoors.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Dwarf snapdragon cultivars (Antirrhinum majus) grow 8 to 12 inches tall, significantly shorter than standard snapdragons, which grow 1 1/2 to 3 1/2 feet tall. With full sun and well-draining soil, these little perennials brighten up the landscape with colorful white, yellow, peach, pink, purple, red and bi-colored flowers. Through dwarf snapdragons are technically perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 10, you can also treat them as annuals in USDA zones 7 and lower.
Continuous-Release Fertilizer
Fertilize dwarf snapdragons once in spring, right after planting, in USDA zones 2 through 7. In USDA zones 8 through 10, fertilize in fall after planting to provide nutrients for the winter growing season. Use a continuous-release fertilizer, such as a 12-4-8 product, to provide sustained nutrients. Use 4 tablespoons per 4 square feet or bed around the dwarf snapdragons. Scatter the dry fertilizer evenly over the soil, then water the area until the soil is damp 6 inches deep.
Water Regularly
Water dwarf snapdragons when the top 1/2 to 1 inch of the soil starts to feel dry, giving the bed enough water to dampen the soil 6 inches deep. Caring for dwarf snapdragons successfully requires a delicate balance of regular water, without watering too much. Constantly wet, muddy soil can cause them to grow poorly.
Removing the Flowers
As dwarf snapdragons bloom and go to seed, remove the dead and fading flowers. This encourages the plants to bloom more abundantly through the season. To remove the dead flowers, a process called deadheading, pinch the stalk directly below the flower using your fingernails. Wash your hands with soap and water after.
Pests and Problems
Check dwarf snapdragons for aphids through the growing season. Aphids, small, soft-bodied insects that can be green, black or pink, feed on the leaves and flowers. Also keep an eye out for spider mites, which are minuscule white pests that form a fine webbing over the leaves where they are feeding. Start by washing aphids and spider mites off with a strong stream of water, then check daily and follow up with additional water. If the pests keep coming back, mix 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap with 1 quart of water in a clean garden sprayer or spray bottle. Use the mixture to spray the insects and affected leaves, until the area is wet. Repeat every four to seven days until the pests are eradicated.
Continuous-Release Fertilizer
Fertilize dwarf snapdragons once in spring, right after planting, in USDA zones 2 through 7. In USDA zones 8 through 10, fertilize in fall after planting to provide nutrients for the winter growing season. Use a continuous-release fertilizer, such as a 12-4-8 product, to provide sustained nutrients. Use 4 tablespoons per 4 square feet or bed around the dwarf snapdragons. Scatter the dry fertilizer evenly over the soil, then water the area until the soil is damp 6 inches deep.
Water Regularly
Water dwarf snapdragons when the top 1/2 to 1 inch of the soil starts to feel dry, giving the bed enough water to dampen the soil 6 inches deep. Caring for dwarf snapdragons successfully requires a delicate balance of regular water, without watering too much. Constantly wet, muddy soil can cause them to grow poorly.
Removing the Flowers
As dwarf snapdragons bloom and go to seed, remove the dead and fading flowers. This encourages the plants to bloom more abundantly through the season. To remove the dead flowers, a process called deadheading, pinch the stalk directly below the flower using your fingernails. Wash your hands with soap and water after.
Pests and Problems
Check dwarf snapdragons for aphids through the growing season. Aphids, small, soft-bodied insects that can be green, black or pink, feed on the leaves and flowers. Also keep an eye out for spider mites, which are minuscule white pests that form a fine webbing over the leaves where they are feeding. Start by washing aphids and spider mites off with a strong stream of water, then check daily and follow up with additional water. If the pests keep coming back, mix 4 teaspoons of insecticidal soap with 1 quart of water in a clean garden sprayer or spray bottle. Use the mixture to spray the insects and affected leaves, until the area is wet. Repeat every four to seven days until the pests are eradicated.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Annual bread-seed or lettuce-leaf poppies (Papaver somniferum) produce flat, tissue-papery blooms in shades of pink, red, purple and white. They grow 4 to 5 feet tall, with lush, pale green foliage that stands upright from the stalk. These are the same poppies that are the source of opium and it is illegal in the United States to grow them for that purpose.
Colors
While specific strains, such as Lauren's Grape (purple), Danish Flag (deep orange with white feathery centers) and peony poppies (multiple petals in jewel tones) are offered in commercial seed packages, grocery-store poppy seeds grow just as well, although in limited colors and types. Most produce a single pink poppy flower.
Timing
Annual poppies grow best if they get a period of cold, so it is often recommended that they be planted in fall or sprinkled on the snow. However, especially in areas with wet winters and cold springs, planting in mid-February yields better results.
Planting
Scatter the seeds on the ground and do not cover them, as sunlight is needed for germination. If your climate is dry, keep the seeds moist with a fine spray from the hose until they come up. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, thin out any crowded clumps.
Gathering Seeds
Poppy flowers last only a few days. After the petals drop, the poppy seed heads will begin to dry. Leave them on the plant until the stalks have turned beige and the slits at the top of the poppy pod have opened to release the seeds. Gather the heads and let them dry completely, then shake out the seeds.
Replanting
Many of the seeds will fall to the ground and plant themselves, but save some seeds to scatter again in spring, especially if the grocery-store seeds yield any unusual colors or forms that you wish to grow again.
Colors
While specific strains, such as Lauren's Grape (purple), Danish Flag (deep orange with white feathery centers) and peony poppies (multiple petals in jewel tones) are offered in commercial seed packages, grocery-store poppy seeds grow just as well, although in limited colors and types. Most produce a single pink poppy flower.
Timing
Annual poppies grow best if they get a period of cold, so it is often recommended that they be planted in fall or sprinkled on the snow. However, especially in areas with wet winters and cold springs, planting in mid-February yields better results.
Planting
Scatter the seeds on the ground and do not cover them, as sunlight is needed for germination. If your climate is dry, keep the seeds moist with a fine spray from the hose until they come up. When the plants are about 3 inches tall, thin out any crowded clumps.
Gathering Seeds
Poppy flowers last only a few days. After the petals drop, the poppy seed heads will begin to dry. Leave them on the plant until the stalks have turned beige and the slits at the top of the poppy pod have opened to release the seeds. Gather the heads and let them dry completely, then shake out the seeds.
Replanting
Many of the seeds will fall to the ground and plant themselves, but save some seeds to scatter again in spring, especially if the grocery-store seeds yield any unusual colors or forms that you wish to grow again.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Petunias (Petunia spp) fill the showiest of flower beds or the humblest of hanging baskets with spring-to-fall color. These tough, sun-loving annuals grow in bush or trailing forms, with trumpet-like, single or double blooms. Deadheading their spent blossoms keeps the easy-care plants in full flower over the entire summer. Add fragrance to their list of attributes, and petunias may be the ideal garden annuals. One of their few liabilities is that a tiny, flower-devouring striped worm finds petunias irresistible.
Identification
Gardeners across the United States risk finding their prize petunias infested with tobacco budworms. These green caterpillars are the larvae of the 1 1/2-inch wide Helicoverpa virescens moth. The female moths deposit their eggs on a petunia's foliage and buds at dusk. The eggs hatch into striped caterpillars. Their colors range from light green or light brown to red and other dark shades. The coloration acts as camouflage. It varies according to the plants on which the pests feed.
Life Cycle
Newly tobacco budworms feed on a petunia's flowers for about four weeks before falling to the ground. They tunnel from 2 to 6 inches deep, build dirt cocoons and pupate. Where winter temperatures remain above 20 degrees Fahrenheit, the caterpillars entering the soil in autumn can survive until spring. The adults emerge after pupation to mate to lay eggs. Two generations of these worms typically attack petunias in a single growing season.
Damage
The tobacco budworms feed on flower buds and flower ovaries. Some buds don't open at all. Infected buds that do open have chewed, shredded petals. Budworm infestations, and the damage they cause, worsen as the summer passes.
Manual Control
Checking your petunias daily for chewed buds and blooms is the best way to limit tobacco budworm damage. The caterpillars feed most heavily in the early evening. Examine the plants, then manually remove and destroy the worms. If that's impractical, do a daytime check under the petunias' lower leaves and around their bases. The worms frequently hide in the soil during daylight. Tilling your petunia bed in fall destroys overwintering pupae.
Biological Control
Parasitic wasps feed on tobacco budworm caterpillars. Campoletis sonorensis attacks the young larvae, while Cardiochiles nigriceps goes after mature caterpillars ready to pupate. Several species of paper wasps also kill the pests.
Chemical Control
Tobacco budworms are somewhat insecticide-resistant. Spinosad-based insecticides as well as those containing synthetic pyrethrins are most likely to succeed in controlling them. Look for insecticides containing bifentrhrin, permethrin or esfenvalerate.
Identification
Gardeners across the United States risk finding their prize petunias infested with tobacco budworms. These green caterpillars are the larvae of the 1 1/2-inch wide Helicoverpa virescens moth. The female moths deposit their eggs on a petunia's foliage and buds at dusk. The eggs hatch into striped caterpillars. Their colors range from light green or light brown to red and other dark shades. The coloration acts as camouflage. It varies according to the plants on which the pests feed.
Life Cycle
Newly tobacco budworms feed on a petunia's flowers for about four weeks before falling to the ground. They tunnel from 2 to 6 inches deep, build dirt cocoons and pupate. Where winter temperatures remain above 20 degrees Fahrenheit, the caterpillars entering the soil in autumn can survive until spring. The adults emerge after pupation to mate to lay eggs. Two generations of these worms typically attack petunias in a single growing season.
Damage
The tobacco budworms feed on flower buds and flower ovaries. Some buds don't open at all. Infected buds that do open have chewed, shredded petals. Budworm infestations, and the damage they cause, worsen as the summer passes.
Manual Control
Checking your petunias daily for chewed buds and blooms is the best way to limit tobacco budworm damage. The caterpillars feed most heavily in the early evening. Examine the plants, then manually remove and destroy the worms. If that's impractical, do a daytime check under the petunias' lower leaves and around their bases. The worms frequently hide in the soil during daylight. Tilling your petunia bed in fall destroys overwintering pupae.
Biological Control
Parasitic wasps feed on tobacco budworm caterpillars. Campoletis sonorensis attacks the young larvae, while Cardiochiles nigriceps goes after mature caterpillars ready to pupate. Several species of paper wasps also kill the pests.
Chemical Control
Tobacco budworms are somewhat insecticide-resistant. Spinosad-based insecticides as well as those containing synthetic pyrethrins are most likely to succeed in controlling them. Look for insecticides containing bifentrhrin, permethrin or esfenvalerate.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Petunias are bright and colorful annual flowers thriving throughout the country. They grow in both small and large varieties and bring color to all summertime gardens. They require the right season and conditions to maintain healthy stems, foliage and blooms. Petunias may go brown for a number of reasons.
Growing Season
Petunias are annuals, and so grow for only one season. They require midspring plantings and summer growing seasons. Do not plant them outdoors until all frost is past. These plants grow well in gardens, pots and hanging containers.
Frost
Annual flowers die in frost, so petunia leaves naturally yellow and fade when fall approaches. Browning in fall simply means that the petunias are at the end of their lifespans. Save petunias in pots by moving them indoors and out of the frost.
Light
According to the University of Minnesota, light is the most important aspect of petunia growing. Petunias that don't receive at least five to six hours of full sun every day won't bloom or spread. Heavily shaded petunias may display yellow or brown leaves from lack of sun.
Soil and Spacing
Petunias require moderately fertile, quick-draining soil and will rot and die in tight soil or standing water. The University of Minnesota recommends amending soil with peat moss or compost before planting. Give petunias 8-8-8, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer at planting to increase growth and blooming.
Water
Petunias that don't get enough water will die with wasted blooms and brown, crumbling leaves. Increase watering to 2 to 3 inches of water a week to save brown and dying petunias.
Growing Season
Petunias are annuals, and so grow for only one season. They require midspring plantings and summer growing seasons. Do not plant them outdoors until all frost is past. These plants grow well in gardens, pots and hanging containers.
Frost
Annual flowers die in frost, so petunia leaves naturally yellow and fade when fall approaches. Browning in fall simply means that the petunias are at the end of their lifespans. Save petunias in pots by moving them indoors and out of the frost.
Light
According to the University of Minnesota, light is the most important aspect of petunia growing. Petunias that don't receive at least five to six hours of full sun every day won't bloom or spread. Heavily shaded petunias may display yellow or brown leaves from lack of sun.
Soil and Spacing
Petunias require moderately fertile, quick-draining soil and will rot and die in tight soil or standing water. The University of Minnesota recommends amending soil with peat moss or compost before planting. Give petunias 8-8-8, 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer at planting to increase growth and blooming.
Water
Petunias that don't get enough water will die with wasted blooms and brown, crumbling leaves. Increase watering to 2 to 3 inches of water a week to save brown and dying petunias.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Flowering annuals grown in containers add color to an apartment terrace, a garden patio or any other outdoor spot. When choosing plants for potting, add some zinnias (Zinnia elegans) for blossoms that keep coming all season long. Zinnias grow as annuals in all parts of the United States and come in many different sizes, with flowers in varied shapes and vivid colors. Growing them in pots is easy, requiring only a little care at the start and some tidying during the season.
Getting Started
Zinnias are easy to start from seed, because their seeds are large and easy to handle, and they usually germinate quickly. Start seeds indoors about six weeks before the last spring frost, sowing them in a moistened, soilless mixture in flats or small pots. Cover them with mix to a depth of about 1/4 inch and keep them lightly moist until seedlings sprout; keep in a sunny spot at room temperature until you're ready to transplant them into larger containers.
You can also start by purchasing seedlings at a garden center or nursery, but don't buy them more than a day or two before you're ready to plant, so they're in top shape when they go in the ground. Choose compact, well-branched plants with flower buds and healthy, bright green leaves that aren't discolored. If you can't plant immediately, water the seedlings and keep them in a shady spot until you're ready.
Plant seedlings in outdoor containers any time after danger of frost has passed.
Potting and Planting
Zinnias grow well in any type of container, including plastic or clay pots, wooden half-barrels, a windowbox or a hanging basket, but choose a container that has at least one drainage hole to help prevent fungal growth in the soil. Disinfect a previously used container to kill disease organisms or pests before using by soaking it in a solution that's 1 part bleach to 9 parts water for 10 minutes, then clean it with water that contains a little dish detergent, and rinse well.
Zinnias come in many sizes, from varieties that grow 2 feet tall to dwarf cultivars only 6 inches high. You can plant any of these in a container. As they all spread to about 1 or 1 1/2 feet, a good rule of thumb for spacing is to set one zinnia in a 6-inch pot, three plants in a 10-inch pot and up to five zinnias in a 14-inch pot.
Soil, Sun, Water and Fertilizer
Plant zinnias in any commercial potting mix, or make your own. For example, for two 14-inch containers, combine 2 1/2 gallons peat moss, 2 1/2 gallons perlite, 1 1/4 gallons compost, 2 cups fine sand and 1/2 cup ground limestone. Don't use garden soil, which can harbor pests or disease-causing organisms.
Plant seedlings to the same level as they were in their original pot and water them in well. Keep zinnias in a sunny location that gets at least four hours of sun daily -- more sun means more flowers -- and water whenever the top inch or two of soil feels dry to the touch. Let the pot drain after watering and never keep it in a water-filled saucer.
To keep flowers coming all season, fertilize the pot weekly, using a water-soluble, 5-10-5 formula diluted at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but check your product label for additional directions.
Trimming and Possible Problems
Zinnias continue producing new flower buds until plants dieback in the fall. But you can help keep the plants full of blooms and tidy by trimming off flowers as they fade -- called deadheading. This also helps promote new branching behind the old flower, keeping the plant bushy. Using sharp shears, cut off the stem just behind the old flower but in front of any new shoots that may be growing on the stem. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of plant disease.
Zinnias are usually free of any pest problems, but they are susceptible to several fungal problems, including powdery mildew which causes a white powder to accumulate on leaves that eventually wilt and dry up. This is best prevented by keeping the container in a spot with good air circulation and watering only at the plant's base, keeping foliage dry.
Getting Started
Zinnias are easy to start from seed, because their seeds are large and easy to handle, and they usually germinate quickly. Start seeds indoors about six weeks before the last spring frost, sowing them in a moistened, soilless mixture in flats or small pots. Cover them with mix to a depth of about 1/4 inch and keep them lightly moist until seedlings sprout; keep in a sunny spot at room temperature until you're ready to transplant them into larger containers.
You can also start by purchasing seedlings at a garden center or nursery, but don't buy them more than a day or two before you're ready to plant, so they're in top shape when they go in the ground. Choose compact, well-branched plants with flower buds and healthy, bright green leaves that aren't discolored. If you can't plant immediately, water the seedlings and keep them in a shady spot until you're ready.
Plant seedlings in outdoor containers any time after danger of frost has passed.
Potting and Planting
Zinnias grow well in any type of container, including plastic or clay pots, wooden half-barrels, a windowbox or a hanging basket, but choose a container that has at least one drainage hole to help prevent fungal growth in the soil. Disinfect a previously used container to kill disease organisms or pests before using by soaking it in a solution that's 1 part bleach to 9 parts water for 10 minutes, then clean it with water that contains a little dish detergent, and rinse well.
Zinnias come in many sizes, from varieties that grow 2 feet tall to dwarf cultivars only 6 inches high. You can plant any of these in a container. As they all spread to about 1 or 1 1/2 feet, a good rule of thumb for spacing is to set one zinnia in a 6-inch pot, three plants in a 10-inch pot and up to five zinnias in a 14-inch pot.
Soil, Sun, Water and Fertilizer
Plant zinnias in any commercial potting mix, or make your own. For example, for two 14-inch containers, combine 2 1/2 gallons peat moss, 2 1/2 gallons perlite, 1 1/4 gallons compost, 2 cups fine sand and 1/2 cup ground limestone. Don't use garden soil, which can harbor pests or disease-causing organisms.
Plant seedlings to the same level as they were in their original pot and water them in well. Keep zinnias in a sunny location that gets at least four hours of sun daily -- more sun means more flowers -- and water whenever the top inch or two of soil feels dry to the touch. Let the pot drain after watering and never keep it in a water-filled saucer.
To keep flowers coming all season, fertilize the pot weekly, using a water-soluble, 5-10-5 formula diluted at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but check your product label for additional directions.
Trimming and Possible Problems
Zinnias continue producing new flower buds until plants dieback in the fall. But you can help keep the plants full of blooms and tidy by trimming off flowers as they fade -- called deadheading. This also helps promote new branching behind the old flower, keeping the plant bushy. Using sharp shears, cut off the stem just behind the old flower but in front of any new shoots that may be growing on the stem. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of plant disease.
Zinnias are usually free of any pest problems, but they are susceptible to several fungal problems, including powdery mildew which causes a white powder to accumulate on leaves that eventually wilt and dry up. This is best prevented by keeping the container in a spot with good air circulation and watering only at the plant's base, keeping foliage dry.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Brightly colored zinnias are a welcome sight in summer gardens. Once the weather warms up, zinnias are easy to grow in sunny flowerbeds and borders. They are attractive whether grown en masse or in clumps of three, five or seven plants in a mixed border. Not only are they easy to grow, they have a long vase life too, making them a favorite among veteran gardeners.
Culture
Zinnias are annuals. The first frost of fall kills them, and gardeners must plant them anew in late spring. Gardeners may sow seeds directly in well-drained soil outdoors after the last frost of spring. Succession plantings every two to three weeks will ensure a long season of vivid color. Zinnias transplant well, so you can also start seeds indoors in peat pots or trays in cool weather and move seedlings outdoors when temperatures rise.
Varieties
Flowers can be single or double, like this double yellow pincushion variety.
Zinnias are diverse. They range in size from dwarf, compact plants, just 6 inches in height, to stately giants 4 feet tall. Flower forms can vary from dense, pincushion blooms to single, airy blossoms that resemble daisies. White varieties exist, but zinnias are generally known for their vivid colors in shades of pink, orange, red and yellow. Their intense colors attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Challenges
Zinnias are not problem-free. Leaves are susceptible to white powdery mildew, so gardeners should plant zinnias with sufficient space between them to allow for good air circulation. Leaf spot, root rot, blight and botrytis are the most common zinnia diseases. The gardener should remove any affected foliage at the first sign of trouble and dispose of leaves in the trash, not the compost bin.
Cutting
Zinnias do well in a vase or an arrangement. To extend the vase life of cut zinnias, cut them early in the morning and dip the cut stems in water as soon as possible. Remove all of the foliage from the portion of the stem that will be underwater in the vase, and chill the flowers in the refrigerator. Let them soak the water in and cool off for at least an hour before arranging them.
Culture
Zinnias are annuals. The first frost of fall kills them, and gardeners must plant them anew in late spring. Gardeners may sow seeds directly in well-drained soil outdoors after the last frost of spring. Succession plantings every two to three weeks will ensure a long season of vivid color. Zinnias transplant well, so you can also start seeds indoors in peat pots or trays in cool weather and move seedlings outdoors when temperatures rise.
Varieties
Flowers can be single or double, like this double yellow pincushion variety.
Zinnias are diverse. They range in size from dwarf, compact plants, just 6 inches in height, to stately giants 4 feet tall. Flower forms can vary from dense, pincushion blooms to single, airy blossoms that resemble daisies. White varieties exist, but zinnias are generally known for their vivid colors in shades of pink, orange, red and yellow. Their intense colors attract butterflies, bees and hummingbirds.
Challenges
Zinnias are not problem-free. Leaves are susceptible to white powdery mildew, so gardeners should plant zinnias with sufficient space between them to allow for good air circulation. Leaf spot, root rot, blight and botrytis are the most common zinnia diseases. The gardener should remove any affected foliage at the first sign of trouble and dispose of leaves in the trash, not the compost bin.
Cutting
Zinnias do well in a vase or an arrangement. To extend the vase life of cut zinnias, cut them early in the morning and dip the cut stems in water as soon as possible. Remove all of the foliage from the portion of the stem that will be underwater in the vase, and chill the flowers in the refrigerator. Let them soak the water in and cool off for at least an hour before arranging them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Marigolds are annual flowering plants. Native to Mexico, marigolds prefer full sun and well-drained soil. Marigolds are related to asters and grow easily from seed or transplanted bedding plants. These plants bloom in summer with colors in shades of yellow, orange and red with solid, bi-color and striped flowers. Choose varieties from 6 to 36 inches in height. Cut back marigolds to encourage healthy foliage and prolific flowering.
Pinching
Pinch back young marigolds in spring and early summer. When the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, pinch or cut back foliage tips and new buds to encourage branching. The plant puts out lateral branches and buds. This branching creates bushier foliage and more flower buds. This technique turns leggy growth on young plants into more compact and sturdy plants. When a plant has many flower buds, pinch off some buds to divert energy to the remaining buds for larger flowers.
Deadheading
Tidy up your marigolds by deadheading during the growing season. Cut back dead or fading flowers. After a flower passes its peak bloom, it shrivels and dries into a seed head. Removing dead flower heads encourages more blooms. Pinch off each head individually or cut back the head and stem down to the foliage. Marigolds bloom profusely from spring through autumn when they are deadheaded or frail buds are removed. At the same time, trim off any dead, diseased or discolored foliage.
Shearing
Shear your marigolds in mid-summer. When marigolds look bedraggled or fatigued, revitalize them by cutting off flowers and foliage. Cut back up to one-third of the plant. Pinch off leaves and flowers on dwarf marigolds. Use hand shears or clippers for clean cuts on other marigold varieties. Remove the tired or old growth so that the plant puts its energy into new foliage and flowers. Fertilize lightly with a balanced plant food and water the plant after shearing. Your marigolds may look ragged for a week or two after this shearing, but the plant benefits from the mid-season boost.
Pest Control
Cut back French marigolds in autumn to fight root knot nematodes. Nematodes are soil-dwelling parasites that attack plant roots and harm plants. Dwarf or French marigolds give off natural compounds that are toxic to the nematodes. The marigold compounds are most effective after several months in the soil. Some gardeners plant French marigolds around vegetable beds in the spring. The marigolds mature and expand their roots during summer. In autumn, the foliage is cut back and the roots are chopped or cultivated into the soil for added nematode control.
Pinching
Pinch back young marigolds in spring and early summer. When the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, pinch or cut back foliage tips and new buds to encourage branching. The plant puts out lateral branches and buds. This branching creates bushier foliage and more flower buds. This technique turns leggy growth on young plants into more compact and sturdy plants. When a plant has many flower buds, pinch off some buds to divert energy to the remaining buds for larger flowers.
Deadheading
Tidy up your marigolds by deadheading during the growing season. Cut back dead or fading flowers. After a flower passes its peak bloom, it shrivels and dries into a seed head. Removing dead flower heads encourages more blooms. Pinch off each head individually or cut back the head and stem down to the foliage. Marigolds bloom profusely from spring through autumn when they are deadheaded or frail buds are removed. At the same time, trim off any dead, diseased or discolored foliage.
Shearing
Shear your marigolds in mid-summer. When marigolds look bedraggled or fatigued, revitalize them by cutting off flowers and foliage. Cut back up to one-third of the plant. Pinch off leaves and flowers on dwarf marigolds. Use hand shears or clippers for clean cuts on other marigold varieties. Remove the tired or old growth so that the plant puts its energy into new foliage and flowers. Fertilize lightly with a balanced plant food and water the plant after shearing. Your marigolds may look ragged for a week or two after this shearing, but the plant benefits from the mid-season boost.
Pest Control
Cut back French marigolds in autumn to fight root knot nematodes. Nematodes are soil-dwelling parasites that attack plant roots and harm plants. Dwarf or French marigolds give off natural compounds that are toxic to the nematodes. The marigold compounds are most effective after several months in the soil. Some gardeners plant French marigolds around vegetable beds in the spring. The marigolds mature and expand their roots during summer. In autumn, the foliage is cut back and the roots are chopped or cultivated into the soil for added nematode control.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月14日
Few annuals are as dependably cheerful as marigolds (Tagetes patula). Easy to grow and long-blooming, these reliable plants start flowering in early summer and continue until frost if their old blooms are snipped. They also attract butterflies and hummingbirds into the garden. Marigolds grow best if watered deeply at least once a week.
About Marigolds
Native from New Mexico south to Argentina, marigolds have been a staple in flower gardens for generations. Their height ranges from 6-inch miniatures to 4-foot bushes. These fragrant annuals are easy to grow from seed, but many gardeners buy started plants in garden centers in the spring. The flowers come in yellow, orange, red, cream and bicolored varieties. Small marigolds can be grown in pots or used for edging, while the taller varieties make good cut flowers.
Marigolds grow and flower best in full sun in moist, rich soil with good drainage. The plants tolerate light drought but flowering is diminished. If you're growing marigolds in pots, use a good-quality potting soil, not garden soil, which is too heavy and dense for good container gardening. Deadhead marigolds -- cut off their spent flowers -- to keep them blooming until frost and to improve their appearance. Fertilize them regularly, following the package directions for the proper amount to apply.
Watering New Plants
Water marigolds well immediately after planting them in the garden, both to settle the soil and to hydrate the roots. Keep the soil around the roots moist but not soggy until the plants are established. This usually takes 10 to 12 days.
Established marigolds in garden beds need a good soak once each week. Give them enough water so that the soil is moist to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If the weather is unusually hot or windy, they'll need extra water. Water marigolds in pots when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry. If your marigolds stop flowering in hot weather, give them some extra water, which often restarts flower bud formation.
Fertilizer Precaution
Applying fertilizer to the dry roots of any plant, including marigolds, makes the plant vulnerable to chemical burns from the fertilizer. Always water your plants well the day before you fertilize. This applies to any kind of fertilizer, including water-soluble ones.
About Marigolds
Native from New Mexico south to Argentina, marigolds have been a staple in flower gardens for generations. Their height ranges from 6-inch miniatures to 4-foot bushes. These fragrant annuals are easy to grow from seed, but many gardeners buy started plants in garden centers in the spring. The flowers come in yellow, orange, red, cream and bicolored varieties. Small marigolds can be grown in pots or used for edging, while the taller varieties make good cut flowers.
Marigolds grow and flower best in full sun in moist, rich soil with good drainage. The plants tolerate light drought but flowering is diminished. If you're growing marigolds in pots, use a good-quality potting soil, not garden soil, which is too heavy and dense for good container gardening. Deadhead marigolds -- cut off their spent flowers -- to keep them blooming until frost and to improve their appearance. Fertilize them regularly, following the package directions for the proper amount to apply.
Watering New Plants
Water marigolds well immediately after planting them in the garden, both to settle the soil and to hydrate the roots. Keep the soil around the roots moist but not soggy until the plants are established. This usually takes 10 to 12 days.
Established marigolds in garden beds need a good soak once each week. Give them enough water so that the soil is moist to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If the weather is unusually hot or windy, they'll need extra water. Water marigolds in pots when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil is dry. If your marigolds stop flowering in hot weather, give them some extra water, which often restarts flower bud formation.
Fertilizer Precaution
Applying fertilizer to the dry roots of any plant, including marigolds, makes the plant vulnerable to chemical burns from the fertilizer. Always water your plants well the day before you fertilize. This applies to any kind of fertilizer, including water-soluble ones.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
Peace lily, or Spathiphyllum, is a common and easy-to-grow houseplant. They are not true lilies but in the Arum family and native to tropical Central and South America. In the wild, peace lilies are understory plants that grow in moisture rich humus and in partially shaded light. Heat, water levels, lighting and disease are potential causes for drooping peace lily plants. Once you discover the cause, it is generally easy to revive a wilting peace lily. But first you need to put your Sherlock Holmes hat on and investigate the reason a peace lily keeps wilting.
My Peace Lily Keeps Wilting
Peace lily is an attractive foliage plant that produces a flower-like spathe, which is a modified leaf that encloses the real flower, a spadix. While these plants are known for their ease of care, occasional issues may arise. One of the most common is droopy leaves on peace lily. Wilting peace lilies can occur due to several conditions. It is important to look for pest and disease issues, but the problem could also be cultural.
Watering issues
Spathiphyllum are Aroids, which means they are known for their glossy foliage and characteristic spathe. Peace lilies grow naturally in tropical rainforests. These plants need water but once per week is usually enough. Water until the moisture comes out the drainage holes in the plant’s container. This will ensure that the root ball is getting moisture. When you repot the plant, separate the roots of the ball out into the new soil so they can gather moisture. One common mistake is to water into a saucer and let the moisture percolate up into the roots. This is time consuming for the plant and it may not be getting adequate moisture. Additionally, the standing water in the saucer may induce root rot and attract insect pests. Good watering practices can quickly revive a wilting peace lily.
Lighting, temperature and soil
Correct cultural care needs to be given to peace lily plants. Consistently wilting peace lilies are often the result of simple cultural issues that are easily corrected. Place plants in indirect but bright sunlight. Keep them in a container that is twice as large as the root ball. Wild peace lilies live in warm, tropical regions and require temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-23 C.) during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at night. Most thrive in average indoor temperatures but exposure to extreme heat or cold can cause drooping peace lily plants. Move any plants that are near the furnace or a drafty window or door. Good, well-draining soil is essential. Soil with a high amount of clay can create unfavorably boggy conditions and those with too much grit or sand will simply drain away the moisture added before the plant can uptake it. The best potting soil for a peace lily is a fine, porous mixture containing peat moss, fine bark, or perlite.
Pests and disease
When water levels and other cultural issues have been adequately addressed and the plant is still stressed, look for signs of pests or disease. Mealybugs are the most common pest problem. They can be seen as cottony bits of fluff adhering to the plant or in the soil. Their feeding behavior on plant sap reduces plant vigor and disrupts the flow of nutrients and moisture to foliage, causing discoloration and wilting. Sharp sprays of water to rinse off the insects or the application of alcohol directly to the pests can correct an infestation. Cylindrocladium root rot is the most prevalent disease of Spathiphyllum. It occurs in the warm summer months and causes chlorotic areas and wilted leaves. Remove the plant from soil and treat the roots with fungicide. Then repot in a sterile pot with clean soil. Several other pathogens may be harbored in contaminated potting soil. These are generally fungal and may be addressed in a similar manner as Cylindrocladium.
My Peace Lily Keeps Wilting
Peace lily is an attractive foliage plant that produces a flower-like spathe, which is a modified leaf that encloses the real flower, a spadix. While these plants are known for their ease of care, occasional issues may arise. One of the most common is droopy leaves on peace lily. Wilting peace lilies can occur due to several conditions. It is important to look for pest and disease issues, but the problem could also be cultural.
Watering issues
Spathiphyllum are Aroids, which means they are known for their glossy foliage and characteristic spathe. Peace lilies grow naturally in tropical rainforests. These plants need water but once per week is usually enough. Water until the moisture comes out the drainage holes in the plant’s container. This will ensure that the root ball is getting moisture. When you repot the plant, separate the roots of the ball out into the new soil so they can gather moisture. One common mistake is to water into a saucer and let the moisture percolate up into the roots. This is time consuming for the plant and it may not be getting adequate moisture. Additionally, the standing water in the saucer may induce root rot and attract insect pests. Good watering practices can quickly revive a wilting peace lily.
Lighting, temperature and soil
Correct cultural care needs to be given to peace lily plants. Consistently wilting peace lilies are often the result of simple cultural issues that are easily corrected. Place plants in indirect but bright sunlight. Keep them in a container that is twice as large as the root ball. Wild peace lilies live in warm, tropical regions and require temperatures of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-23 C.) during the day and about 10 degrees cooler at night. Most thrive in average indoor temperatures but exposure to extreme heat or cold can cause drooping peace lily plants. Move any plants that are near the furnace or a drafty window or door. Good, well-draining soil is essential. Soil with a high amount of clay can create unfavorably boggy conditions and those with too much grit or sand will simply drain away the moisture added before the plant can uptake it. The best potting soil for a peace lily is a fine, porous mixture containing peat moss, fine bark, or perlite.
Pests and disease
When water levels and other cultural issues have been adequately addressed and the plant is still stressed, look for signs of pests or disease. Mealybugs are the most common pest problem. They can be seen as cottony bits of fluff adhering to the plant or in the soil. Their feeding behavior on plant sap reduces plant vigor and disrupts the flow of nutrients and moisture to foliage, causing discoloration and wilting. Sharp sprays of water to rinse off the insects or the application of alcohol directly to the pests can correct an infestation. Cylindrocladium root rot is the most prevalent disease of Spathiphyllum. It occurs in the warm summer months and causes chlorotic areas and wilted leaves. Remove the plant from soil and treat the roots with fungicide. Then repot in a sterile pot with clean soil. Several other pathogens may be harbored in contaminated potting soil. These are generally fungal and may be addressed in a similar manner as Cylindrocladium.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月13日
It’s not only attractive and easy to grow, but the miracle plant produces a very interesting berry that upon eating makes things taste sweeter. Learning more about growing miracle berries can make it easier for you to experience this unusual phenomenon for yourself. Keep reading to learn about caring for a miracle fruit plant.
Miracle Plant Info: What Is a Miracle Berry?
Miracle berry (Synsepalum dulcificum) is an evergreen shrub that is native to tropical West Africa. Outside of the tropics, it is a houseplant that is also known as sweet berry and miracle fruit. This interesting plant bears attractive and edible red fruit that are ¾ to 1 inch long with a seed surrounded by fleshy pulp.
The miracle that this fruit performs is to make everything taste sweet. When you eat the fruit and allow the pulp to coat the inside of your mouth, it masks the real taste of bitter foods for a few minutes to several hours, depending on how much fruit you eat. This includes foods that are normally very sour, such as vinegar or lemons. Scientists are still unsure of how the fruit alters a food’s taste, but they think that it may have something to do with a protein with sugar molecules attached. The receptors on the taste buds seem to be temporarily altered when the fruit is eaten as a result of these molecules.
Miracle Berry Growing
In its native environment, the plant will reach up to 20 feet in height at maturity but only 5 feet when grown indoors, so make sure to locate it in a suitable area to accommodate this fairly large size. Growing miracle berries indoors requires a room with very bright light. However, it can be placed outside in a shady location when the weather is warm. This humidity-loving plant thrives when placed in a room with a humidifier or with a clear plastic bag wrapped around it to conserve moisture. Misting daily with water or setting the plant on a water-filled pebble tray can also help with raising humidity. Use only well drained, slightly acidic soil whenever you are growing miracle berries.
Caring for a Miracle Fruit Plant
Caring for a miracle fruit plant is not difficult as long as you keep the soil acidity constant. This can be done by using peat and perlite planting mediums and providing a fertilizer for acid-loving plants. Water the plant regularly but do not let the plant sit in water or it may become waterlogged and may develop root rot. Always feel the soil before watering. Now that you the answer to, “What is miracle berry?” you can begin your own miracle berry growing and explore the wonder of this interesting fruit.
Miracle Plant Info: What Is a Miracle Berry?
Miracle berry (Synsepalum dulcificum) is an evergreen shrub that is native to tropical West Africa. Outside of the tropics, it is a houseplant that is also known as sweet berry and miracle fruit. This interesting plant bears attractive and edible red fruit that are ¾ to 1 inch long with a seed surrounded by fleshy pulp.
The miracle that this fruit performs is to make everything taste sweet. When you eat the fruit and allow the pulp to coat the inside of your mouth, it masks the real taste of bitter foods for a few minutes to several hours, depending on how much fruit you eat. This includes foods that are normally very sour, such as vinegar or lemons. Scientists are still unsure of how the fruit alters a food’s taste, but they think that it may have something to do with a protein with sugar molecules attached. The receptors on the taste buds seem to be temporarily altered when the fruit is eaten as a result of these molecules.
Miracle Berry Growing
In its native environment, the plant will reach up to 20 feet in height at maturity but only 5 feet when grown indoors, so make sure to locate it in a suitable area to accommodate this fairly large size. Growing miracle berries indoors requires a room with very bright light. However, it can be placed outside in a shady location when the weather is warm. This humidity-loving plant thrives when placed in a room with a humidifier or with a clear plastic bag wrapped around it to conserve moisture. Misting daily with water or setting the plant on a water-filled pebble tray can also help with raising humidity. Use only well drained, slightly acidic soil whenever you are growing miracle berries.
Caring for a Miracle Fruit Plant
Caring for a miracle fruit plant is not difficult as long as you keep the soil acidity constant. This can be done by using peat and perlite planting mediums and providing a fertilizer for acid-loving plants. Water the plant regularly but do not let the plant sit in water or it may become waterlogged and may develop root rot. Always feel the soil before watering. Now that you the answer to, “What is miracle berry?” you can begin your own miracle berry growing and explore the wonder of this interesting fruit.
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