文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Peace lily is a popular indoor plant, valued for its easy-going nature, its ability to grow in low light environments, and last but certainly not least, the beautiful white flowers, which bloom nearly nonstop. Although this plant isn’t fussy, it’s important to understand how to water a peace lily. Read on for the details of peace lily watering requirements.
When to Water Peace Lily
Poke your finger into the potting soil to determine if it’s time to water your peace lily. If the soil feels moist to the first knuckle, it’s too soon for watering peace lilies. If the soil feels dry, it’s time to give your peace lily a drink of water. If you like high-tech gadgets, you can use a water meter. However, the knuckle test is just as reliable and considerably cheaper.
How to Water a Peace Lily
The best way to water a peace lily is to set the plant in the sink. Pour water slowly onto the soil until liquid drips through the bottom of the pot. Let the plant drain thoroughly, then return it to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant sit in water, as disease caused by excess water is the number one reason for houseplant death. Too little water is always preferable to too much water. Peace lilies can stand a fair amount of neglect, but allowing the soil to become bone dry may result in a sad, droopy plant. However, peace lily will nearly always bounce back with a good watering.
Peace Lily Watering Tips
Tap water is fine for watering peace lilies, but letting the water sit out for a day or two allows fluoride and other harmful chemicals to dissipate. If water runs straight through the pot, it may mean the plant is badly root bound. If this is the case, repot your peace lily as soon as possible. If you forget to water your peace lily for an extended time, the edges of the leaves may turn yellow. If this happens, water the plant well, then clip off the yellowing foliage. Your plant should soon be good as new.
When to Water Peace Lily
Poke your finger into the potting soil to determine if it’s time to water your peace lily. If the soil feels moist to the first knuckle, it’s too soon for watering peace lilies. If the soil feels dry, it’s time to give your peace lily a drink of water. If you like high-tech gadgets, you can use a water meter. However, the knuckle test is just as reliable and considerably cheaper.
How to Water a Peace Lily
The best way to water a peace lily is to set the plant in the sink. Pour water slowly onto the soil until liquid drips through the bottom of the pot. Let the plant drain thoroughly, then return it to its drainage saucer. Never let the plant sit in water, as disease caused by excess water is the number one reason for houseplant death. Too little water is always preferable to too much water. Peace lilies can stand a fair amount of neglect, but allowing the soil to become bone dry may result in a sad, droopy plant. However, peace lily will nearly always bounce back with a good watering.
Peace Lily Watering Tips
Tap water is fine for watering peace lilies, but letting the water sit out for a day or two allows fluoride and other harmful chemicals to dissipate. If water runs straight through the pot, it may mean the plant is badly root bound. If this is the case, repot your peace lily as soon as possible. If you forget to water your peace lily for an extended time, the edges of the leaves may turn yellow. If this happens, water the plant well, then clip off the yellowing foliage. Your plant should soon be good as new.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
When you think of cacti and other succulents, you probably think of dry, sandy, desert conditions. It’s hard to imagine that fungal and bacterial rots could grow in such dry conditions. Actually, cacti are susceptible to a number of rot diseases, just like any other plant. While oftentimes cactus rot diseases are caused by too much water and humidity, this article will specifically discuss Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants.
Erwinia Soft Rot in Cactus
Erwinia carotovora bacterium is a bacteria caused soft rot of cactus. Bacterial soft rots affect many other plants besides cacti and succulents. In fact, soft rot contributes to major crop failure of many vegetables. Plants with calcium deficiencies are specifically at risk. Erwinia carotovora is also known as Pectobacterium carotovia. Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is caused by bacteria entering wounds or natural openings of the plant. Wounds can be from insect damage, pet damage, accidentally knocking the plant with gardening tools, etc. On cactus plants, it will take at least a week for a wound to scab over, depending, of course, on the size of the wound. In humid, wet weather, cactus rot diseases can spread very quickly. The ideal temperatures for soft rot development are between 70-80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) with high humidity. Soft rot can affect any part of the cactus plant, including roots that have been damaged by transplanting, insects or other pests.
Treating Rotting Cactus Plants
Soft rot of cactus plants can be spread to other plants by insects, dirty gardening tools and moving of garden debris. It is important to always keep the garden free of possibly diseased garden debris and to thoroughly sanitize your garden tools between each use. Also, if a cactus plant develops a wound anywhere on it and from anything, treat the wound immediately with copper fungicide or a solution of bleach and water. Cactus plants with soft rot may first appear to have watery looking scabs on them. Then the plant tissues will turn brown to black in these spots. You may notice a foul smelling seepage or discharge from these areas as well. There is no cure for rotting cactus plants once it is showing these symptoms. The best way to handle Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is to take preventative measures to avoid it. Clean wounds immediately and thoroughly, keep the plant dry and out of humidity and once a year feed the cactus plant a fertilizer with a boost of calcium.
Erwinia Soft Rot in Cactus
Erwinia carotovora bacterium is a bacteria caused soft rot of cactus. Bacterial soft rots affect many other plants besides cacti and succulents. In fact, soft rot contributes to major crop failure of many vegetables. Plants with calcium deficiencies are specifically at risk. Erwinia carotovora is also known as Pectobacterium carotovia. Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is caused by bacteria entering wounds or natural openings of the plant. Wounds can be from insect damage, pet damage, accidentally knocking the plant with gardening tools, etc. On cactus plants, it will take at least a week for a wound to scab over, depending, of course, on the size of the wound. In humid, wet weather, cactus rot diseases can spread very quickly. The ideal temperatures for soft rot development are between 70-80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) with high humidity. Soft rot can affect any part of the cactus plant, including roots that have been damaged by transplanting, insects or other pests.
Treating Rotting Cactus Plants
Soft rot of cactus plants can be spread to other plants by insects, dirty gardening tools and moving of garden debris. It is important to always keep the garden free of possibly diseased garden debris and to thoroughly sanitize your garden tools between each use. Also, if a cactus plant develops a wound anywhere on it and from anything, treat the wound immediately with copper fungicide or a solution of bleach and water. Cactus plants with soft rot may first appear to have watery looking scabs on them. Then the plant tissues will turn brown to black in these spots. You may notice a foul smelling seepage or discharge from these areas as well. There is no cure for rotting cactus plants once it is showing these symptoms. The best way to handle Erwinia soft rot in cactus plants is to take preventative measures to avoid it. Clean wounds immediately and thoroughly, keep the plant dry and out of humidity and once a year feed the cactus plant a fertilizer with a boost of calcium.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
The genus Euphorbia boasts a number of fascinating and beautiful plants, and the Medusa’s Head euphorbia is one of the most unique. Medusa’s Head plants, native to South Africa, grow numerous grayish-green, snake-like branches extending from a central hub that keeps the twisty, leafless branches supplied with moisture and nutrients. In perfect conditions, the plants can measure as much as 3 feet across, and yellowish-green blooms appear around the hub in spring and summer. Want to learn how to grow a Medusa’s Head? Read on.
How to Grow a Medusa’s Head Euphorbia
You may be lucky enough to find Medusa’s Head plants (Euphorbia caput-medusae) at a garden center that specializes in cacti and succulents. If you have a friend with a mature plant, ask if you can have a cutting to propagate your own plant. Let the cut end dry for a few days to develop a callus before planting.
Medusa’s Head euphorbia is suitable for growing outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11. Euphorbia requires at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and tolerates temperatures in the low 90s (33-35 C.). However, afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates, as extreme heat may stress the plant. Well-drained soil is absolutely critical; these plants are likely to rot in soggy soil. This fascinating plant also does well in pots, but requires a well-drained potting mix such as a mixture of pumice, coarse sand and potting soil.
Euphorbia Medusa’s Head Care
Although Medusa’s Head is drought tolerant, the plant benefits from regular moisture during summer and won’t tolerant long periods of drought. In general, one watering every week or so is enough. Again, be sure the soil drains well and never allow the soil to become waterlogged. Medusa’s Head plants in containers shouldn’t be watered during the winter months, although you can water the plant very lightly if it begins to look shriveled. Fertilize the plant monthly during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength. Otherwise, caring for Medusa’s Head isn’t complicated. Watch for mealybugs and spider mites. Be sure the plant isn’t crowded, as good air circulation can prevent powdery mildew. Note: Be careful when working with Medusa’s Head plants. Like all Euphorbia, the plant contains sap that can irritate eyes and skin.
How to Grow a Medusa’s Head Euphorbia
You may be lucky enough to find Medusa’s Head plants (Euphorbia caput-medusae) at a garden center that specializes in cacti and succulents. If you have a friend with a mature plant, ask if you can have a cutting to propagate your own plant. Let the cut end dry for a few days to develop a callus before planting.
Medusa’s Head euphorbia is suitable for growing outdoors in USDA hardiness zones 9b through 11. Euphorbia requires at least six hours of direct sunlight per day and tolerates temperatures in the low 90s (33-35 C.). However, afternoon shade is beneficial in hotter climates, as extreme heat may stress the plant. Well-drained soil is absolutely critical; these plants are likely to rot in soggy soil. This fascinating plant also does well in pots, but requires a well-drained potting mix such as a mixture of pumice, coarse sand and potting soil.
Euphorbia Medusa’s Head Care
Although Medusa’s Head is drought tolerant, the plant benefits from regular moisture during summer and won’t tolerant long periods of drought. In general, one watering every week or so is enough. Again, be sure the soil drains well and never allow the soil to become waterlogged. Medusa’s Head plants in containers shouldn’t be watered during the winter months, although you can water the plant very lightly if it begins to look shriveled. Fertilize the plant monthly during spring and summer, using a water-soluble fertilizer mixed to half strength. Otherwise, caring for Medusa’s Head isn’t complicated. Watch for mealybugs and spider mites. Be sure the plant isn’t crowded, as good air circulation can prevent powdery mildew. Note: Be careful when working with Medusa’s Head plants. Like all Euphorbia, the plant contains sap that can irritate eyes and skin.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Epiphyllum are epiphytic cacti as their name suggests. Some call them orchid cactus due to their large bright blooms and growth habit. Epiphytic plants grow on other plants, not in a parasitic fashion but as hosts. They are not cold hardy and generally can be found only as houseplants or greenhouse specimens. Caring for Epiphyllums is a water balancing act. They can’t be allowed to dry out, yet overwatering is a death sentence to these cacti. Here are a few tips on how to grow Epiphyllum and achieve healthy plants that will astound with their blooms and fruit.
Epihyllum Information
Epiphyllum make excellent hanging baskets with their jointed stems that grow 18 to 30 inches long. They are native to tropical Central and South America and span approximately 20 species. The pendant stems crown with spectacular flowers that last only a couple of days but produce from early winter through spring. They are a peculiar plant that flowers best when exposed to cool temperatures and shortened light periods. These cacti grow in tropical forests, nestled in tree crotches and rotting vegetation. They can live off of leaf mold and other organic wastes. In cultivation, they perform well in standard potting soil amended with peat and sand. Use clean sand, not the saline laden sand from a beach. They can be fussy about their water, so use bottled or de-mineralized water to prevent unfavorable reactions to treated tap water. An interesting bit of Epiphyllum information is that they grow edible fruit. The fruit is said to taste much like passion vine fruit and has a texture similar to kiwi, including the small black seeds.
How to Grow Epiphyllums
Collectors that are growing Epiphyllum cactus tend to call them “epis” for short. There are true Epiphyllums but also several hybrids available for trade. The plants start readily from seed but may take up to 5 years to bloom. A more common method of propagation with quicker results is from stem cutting taken in spring or summer. Make a clean cut on new growth and allow the end to callus for a couple of days. Push the callused end into clean potting soil that is moderately moist. Place the container in bright indirect light and keep soil misted. It can take 3 to 6 weeks for the cutting to root. New Epiphyllum plant care is the same as that for a mature plant.
Caring for Epiphyllum Cacti
Choose a filtered light location for growing Epiphyllum cactus. A site where they get full morning sun but shelter from high noon light is best for their growth. Use a diluted fertilizer of 10-10-10 during the growth periods in spring and fall. In February, use a ratio of 2-10-10 to promote flowering and root development. Once flowering has commenced, suspend feeding the plant until October. These plants appreciate cool temperatures and actually need to be exposed to 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15 C.) in winter for a couple of weeks to force blooms. Temperatures below 35 F./1 C. will kill the plant, however. Keep the top 1/3 of the soil moderately damp but watch for standing water around the roots and don’t over water or fungus gnats and stem and root rot will become a problem. Epiphyllum plant care is all about balancing water and light needs. They have few insect or disease problems and will bloom, and possibly fruit, for an entire season with good management.
Epihyllum Information
Epiphyllum make excellent hanging baskets with their jointed stems that grow 18 to 30 inches long. They are native to tropical Central and South America and span approximately 20 species. The pendant stems crown with spectacular flowers that last only a couple of days but produce from early winter through spring. They are a peculiar plant that flowers best when exposed to cool temperatures and shortened light periods. These cacti grow in tropical forests, nestled in tree crotches and rotting vegetation. They can live off of leaf mold and other organic wastes. In cultivation, they perform well in standard potting soil amended with peat and sand. Use clean sand, not the saline laden sand from a beach. They can be fussy about their water, so use bottled or de-mineralized water to prevent unfavorable reactions to treated tap water. An interesting bit of Epiphyllum information is that they grow edible fruit. The fruit is said to taste much like passion vine fruit and has a texture similar to kiwi, including the small black seeds.
How to Grow Epiphyllums
Collectors that are growing Epiphyllum cactus tend to call them “epis” for short. There are true Epiphyllums but also several hybrids available for trade. The plants start readily from seed but may take up to 5 years to bloom. A more common method of propagation with quicker results is from stem cutting taken in spring or summer. Make a clean cut on new growth and allow the end to callus for a couple of days. Push the callused end into clean potting soil that is moderately moist. Place the container in bright indirect light and keep soil misted. It can take 3 to 6 weeks for the cutting to root. New Epiphyllum plant care is the same as that for a mature plant.
Caring for Epiphyllum Cacti
Choose a filtered light location for growing Epiphyllum cactus. A site where they get full morning sun but shelter from high noon light is best for their growth. Use a diluted fertilizer of 10-10-10 during the growth periods in spring and fall. In February, use a ratio of 2-10-10 to promote flowering and root development. Once flowering has commenced, suspend feeding the plant until October. These plants appreciate cool temperatures and actually need to be exposed to 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15 C.) in winter for a couple of weeks to force blooms. Temperatures below 35 F./1 C. will kill the plant, however. Keep the top 1/3 of the soil moderately damp but watch for standing water around the roots and don’t over water or fungus gnats and stem and root rot will become a problem. Epiphyllum plant care is all about balancing water and light needs. They have few insect or disease problems and will bloom, and possibly fruit, for an entire season with good management.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Maybe you’ve seen dragon fruits for sale at your local grocery store. The red or yellow collection of layered scales looks almost like an exotic artichoke. Inside, however, is a sweet mass of white pulp and tiny, crunchy seeds. If you want to grow dragon fruit at home, you’ll be rewarded not only with fruit, but also with an impressive, branching cactus vine and brilliant, night-blooming flowers. Keep reading to learn how to grow dragon fruit.
Pitahaya Information
Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus), also known as pitahaya, is native to Central and South America and needs year-round heat. It can tolerate a brief frost and will recover quickly from any freeze damage, but prolonged exposure to below-freezing temperatures will kill it. It can tolerate heat up to 104 F. (40 C.). Although it is a cactus, it requires a relatively high amount of water. Dragon fruit trees are vining, and need something to climb. They are also heavy – a mature plant can reach 25 feet (7.6 m.) and several hundred pounds. Bear this in mind when building your trellis. The best choice is strong wooden beams. A decent amount of pruning and tying is necessary in training it to follow the trellis, but dragon fruit trees are fast growing and very tolerant of pruning.
How to Grow Dragon Fruit
Dragon fruit trees can be started from seeds, but it may take as long as seven years for the plant to produce fruit. Because of this, the much more popular alternative is growing dragon fruit from a cutting of an already mature plant. This method could produce fruit in as little as 6 months. To propagate, cut a full segment from a mature plant. This may be anywhere from 6-15 inches (12-38 cm.). Make a slanted cut in the open end and treat it with fungicide. Then allow it to “cure” in a dry, shady place for a week, letting the open cut dry and heal. After that, you can plant it directly in the ground. You may get better results, however, if you first plant it in a pot and let it establish a good root system for 4-6 months first before transplanting.
Pitahaya Information
Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus), also known as pitahaya, is native to Central and South America and needs year-round heat. It can tolerate a brief frost and will recover quickly from any freeze damage, but prolonged exposure to below-freezing temperatures will kill it. It can tolerate heat up to 104 F. (40 C.). Although it is a cactus, it requires a relatively high amount of water. Dragon fruit trees are vining, and need something to climb. They are also heavy – a mature plant can reach 25 feet (7.6 m.) and several hundred pounds. Bear this in mind when building your trellis. The best choice is strong wooden beams. A decent amount of pruning and tying is necessary in training it to follow the trellis, but dragon fruit trees are fast growing and very tolerant of pruning.
How to Grow Dragon Fruit
Dragon fruit trees can be started from seeds, but it may take as long as seven years for the plant to produce fruit. Because of this, the much more popular alternative is growing dragon fruit from a cutting of an already mature plant. This method could produce fruit in as little as 6 months. To propagate, cut a full segment from a mature plant. This may be anywhere from 6-15 inches (12-38 cm.). Make a slanted cut in the open end and treat it with fungicide. Then allow it to “cure” in a dry, shady place for a week, letting the open cut dry and heal. After that, you can plant it directly in the ground. You may get better results, however, if you first plant it in a pot and let it establish a good root system for 4-6 months first before transplanting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Many people grow Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera bridgessii). This plant makes a great holiday gift for friends and family, so knowing how to propagate and grow Christmas cactus can help make this shopping easier and less hectic. Propagating Christmas Cactus
Propagating Christmas cactus is easy. In fact, when it comes to the Christmas cactus, propagating is a great way to share this wonderful plant with others. Propagating Christmas cactus begins by simply taking a short, Y-shaped cutting from the stem tip. The cutting should consist of at least two or three joined segments. When doing Christmas cactus propagating, always be sure that cuttings are taken from healthy foliage. Allow the cutting to dry a few hours before potting it up for rooting, as to avoid potential stem rot from excessive moisture.
Rooting Christmas Cactus
Rooting Christmas cactus cuttings is simple. Once you’ve taken your cutting, place the segment in a moist peat and sand soil mix. Insert the segment about a quarter of its length below the soil surface. Place the pot in a well-lit area, avoiding direct sunlight. Water the cutting sparingly at first to prevent rotting. After about two or three weeks of rooting Christmas cactus cutting, the cutting should start showing signs of growth at the tips of its leaves, which is usually reddish in color. Once your cutting has rooted, it can be transplanted into a pot with loose potting soil, preferably with a little sand or compost added. The cutting may wilt some in the beginning, but this is normal and will eventually subside once the plant has taken to its new environment. The Christmas cactus may be watered more frequently, fertilized and given additional light at this time. Christmas cactus propagating doesn’t get any easier than this.
Grow Christmas Cactus
While Christmas cactus can adapt to and be grown in low light, the plant will produce more blooms with brighter light conditions. However, stay away from direct sunlight, which may burn the leaves. Don’t allow this plant to dry out completely between watering intervals. Christmas cactus also enjoys average to high humidity with temperatures hovering between 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) Placing the pot on a tray of pebbles and water can add more humidity to drier surroundings. Watering should be done frequently and thoroughly, keeping the soil moist but not saturated. Make sure there is adequate drainage provided to prevent the Christmas cactus from rotting. Apply a mild houseplant fertilizer every other week. Water and fertilize regularly in spring and summer; however, during the winter months, this plant should be kept on the dry side, withholding water for six weeks. Growing and propagating Christmas cactus can be very rewarding, especially when you give them to others during the holidays.
Propagating Christmas cactus is easy. In fact, when it comes to the Christmas cactus, propagating is a great way to share this wonderful plant with others. Propagating Christmas cactus begins by simply taking a short, Y-shaped cutting from the stem tip. The cutting should consist of at least two or three joined segments. When doing Christmas cactus propagating, always be sure that cuttings are taken from healthy foliage. Allow the cutting to dry a few hours before potting it up for rooting, as to avoid potential stem rot from excessive moisture.
Rooting Christmas Cactus
Rooting Christmas cactus cuttings is simple. Once you’ve taken your cutting, place the segment in a moist peat and sand soil mix. Insert the segment about a quarter of its length below the soil surface. Place the pot in a well-lit area, avoiding direct sunlight. Water the cutting sparingly at first to prevent rotting. After about two or three weeks of rooting Christmas cactus cutting, the cutting should start showing signs of growth at the tips of its leaves, which is usually reddish in color. Once your cutting has rooted, it can be transplanted into a pot with loose potting soil, preferably with a little sand or compost added. The cutting may wilt some in the beginning, but this is normal and will eventually subside once the plant has taken to its new environment. The Christmas cactus may be watered more frequently, fertilized and given additional light at this time. Christmas cactus propagating doesn’t get any easier than this.
Grow Christmas Cactus
While Christmas cactus can adapt to and be grown in low light, the plant will produce more blooms with brighter light conditions. However, stay away from direct sunlight, which may burn the leaves. Don’t allow this plant to dry out completely between watering intervals. Christmas cactus also enjoys average to high humidity with temperatures hovering between 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) Placing the pot on a tray of pebbles and water can add more humidity to drier surroundings. Watering should be done frequently and thoroughly, keeping the soil moist but not saturated. Make sure there is adequate drainage provided to prevent the Christmas cactus from rotting. Apply a mild houseplant fertilizer every other week. Water and fertilize regularly in spring and summer; however, during the winter months, this plant should be kept on the dry side, withholding water for six weeks. Growing and propagating Christmas cactus can be very rewarding, especially when you give them to others during the holidays.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Because Christmas cactus plants are so easy to care for, it is not uncommon for a Christmas cactus to eventually grow to a monstrous size. While this is lovely to see, it can create problems for a homeowner with limited space. At this time, an owner may wonder if pruning a Christmas cactus is possible and exactly how to trim a Christmas cactus. Christmas cactus pruning is not just for large plants, either. Pruning a Christmas cactus, large or small, will help it to grow fuller and more bushier, which in turn results in more blooms in the future. So whether you are looking to simply reduce the size of your plant or are looking to make yours look even more beautiful, keep reading to learn more about how to trim a Christmas cactus.
When to Prune Christmas Cactus Plants
The best time to prune a Christmas cactus is right after it has bloomed. At this time, the Christmas cactus will be entering a growth period and will start to put out new leaves. Pruning a Christmas cactus right after it blooms will force it to branch out, which means the plant will grow more of its distinctive stems. If you are not able to do your Christmas cactus pruning right after it blooms, you can prune the plant any time from after it blooms until late spring without doing harm to the Christmas cactus plant.
How to Trim a Christmas Cactus
Because of the unique stems, pruning a Christmas cactus is perhaps one of the easiest pruning jobs there is. All you need to do to prune a Christmas cactus is give the stems a quick twist between one of the segments. If this seems a bit harsh on your plant, you can also use a sharp knife or scissors to remove the segments. If you are pruning a Christmas cactus to reduce its size, you can remove up to one-third of the plant per year. If you are trimming Christmas cactus plants to make them grow in more fully, you only need to trim the end one to two segments from the stems. The really fun thing about trimming a Christmas cactus is that you can easily root the Christmas cactus cuttings and give the new plants to friends and family.
When to Prune Christmas Cactus Plants
The best time to prune a Christmas cactus is right after it has bloomed. At this time, the Christmas cactus will be entering a growth period and will start to put out new leaves. Pruning a Christmas cactus right after it blooms will force it to branch out, which means the plant will grow more of its distinctive stems. If you are not able to do your Christmas cactus pruning right after it blooms, you can prune the plant any time from after it blooms until late spring without doing harm to the Christmas cactus plant.
How to Trim a Christmas Cactus
Because of the unique stems, pruning a Christmas cactus is perhaps one of the easiest pruning jobs there is. All you need to do to prune a Christmas cactus is give the stems a quick twist between one of the segments. If this seems a bit harsh on your plant, you can also use a sharp knife or scissors to remove the segments. If you are pruning a Christmas cactus to reduce its size, you can remove up to one-third of the plant per year. If you are trimming Christmas cactus plants to make them grow in more fully, you only need to trim the end one to two segments from the stems. The really fun thing about trimming a Christmas cactus is that you can easily root the Christmas cactus cuttings and give the new plants to friends and family.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Unlike typical desert cacti, Christmas cactus is native to the tropical rain forest. Although the climate is damp for much of the year, the roots dry quickly because the plants grow not in soil, but in decayed leaves in the branches of trees. Christmas cactus problems are usually caused by improper watering or poor drainage.
Christmas Cactus Fungal Issues
Rots, including basal stem rot and root rot, are the most common problems affecting Christmas cactus. Stem rot – Basal stem rot, which generally develops in cool, damp soil, is easily recognized by the formation of a brown, water-soaked spot at the base of the stem. The lesions eventually travel up the stem of the plant. Unfortunately, basal stem rot is usually deadly because treatment involves cutting the diseased area from the base of the plant, which removes the supportive structure. The best recourse is to start a new plant with a healthy leaf. Root rot – Similarly, plants with root rot are difficult to save. The disease, which causes the plants to wilt and eventually die, is identified by a wilted appearance and soggy, black or reddish brown roots. You may be able to save the plant if you catch the disease early. Remove the cactus from its pot. Rinse the roots to remove the fungus and trim rotten areas. Repot the plant in a pot filled with a potting mix formulated for cacti and succulents. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Fungicides are often ineffective because specific pathogens are difficult to identify, and each pathogen requires a different fungicide. To prevent rot, water the plant thoroughly, but only when the potting soil feels slightly dry. Let the pot drain and don’t allow the plant to stand in water. Water sparingly during the winter, but never let the potting mix become bone dry.
Other Diseases of Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus diseases also include botrytis blight and impatiens necrotic spot virus. Botrytis blight – Suspect botrytis blight, also known as grey mold, if the blooms or stem are covered with silvery gray fungus. If you catch the disease early, removal of infected plant parts may save the plant. Improve ventilation and reduce humidity to prevent future outbreaks. Necrotic spot virus – Plants with impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) display spotted, yellow or wilted leaves and stems. Use appropriate insect control, as the disease is usually transmitted by thrips. You may be able to save diseased plants by moving them into a clean container filled with fresh, pathogen-free potting mix.
Christmas Cactus Fungal Issues
Rots, including basal stem rot and root rot, are the most common problems affecting Christmas cactus. Stem rot – Basal stem rot, which generally develops in cool, damp soil, is easily recognized by the formation of a brown, water-soaked spot at the base of the stem. The lesions eventually travel up the stem of the plant. Unfortunately, basal stem rot is usually deadly because treatment involves cutting the diseased area from the base of the plant, which removes the supportive structure. The best recourse is to start a new plant with a healthy leaf. Root rot – Similarly, plants with root rot are difficult to save. The disease, which causes the plants to wilt and eventually die, is identified by a wilted appearance and soggy, black or reddish brown roots. You may be able to save the plant if you catch the disease early. Remove the cactus from its pot. Rinse the roots to remove the fungus and trim rotten areas. Repot the plant in a pot filled with a potting mix formulated for cacti and succulents. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Fungicides are often ineffective because specific pathogens are difficult to identify, and each pathogen requires a different fungicide. To prevent rot, water the plant thoroughly, but only when the potting soil feels slightly dry. Let the pot drain and don’t allow the plant to stand in water. Water sparingly during the winter, but never let the potting mix become bone dry.
Other Diseases of Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus diseases also include botrytis blight and impatiens necrotic spot virus. Botrytis blight – Suspect botrytis blight, also known as grey mold, if the blooms or stem are covered with silvery gray fungus. If you catch the disease early, removal of infected plant parts may save the plant. Improve ventilation and reduce humidity to prevent future outbreaks. Necrotic spot virus – Plants with impatiens necrotic spot virus (INSV) display spotted, yellow or wilted leaves and stems. Use appropriate insect control, as the disease is usually transmitted by thrips. You may be able to save diseased plants by moving them into a clean container filled with fresh, pathogen-free potting mix.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月17日
Christmas cactus is a striking plant with bright pink or red blooms that add festive color around the winter holidays. Unlike typical desert cactus, Christmas cactus is a tropical plant that grows in the Brazilian rainforest. The cactus is easy to grow and a cinch to propagate, but Christmas cactus has some unusual attributes that may cause you to wonder what’s going on with your plant. Let’s learn more about roots growing from Christmas cactus plants.
Why Christmas Cactus Has Aerial Roots
If you notice root-like growths on Christmas cactus, don’t be overly concerned. Christmas cactus is an epiphytic plant that grows on trees or rocks in its natural habitat. The roots growing from Christmas cactus are actually aerial roots that help the plant cling to its host. The plant is not a parasite because it doesn’t depend on the tree for food and water. This is where the roots come in handy. Christmas cactus aerial roots help the plant reach sunlight and absorb necessary moisture and nutrients from leaves, humus and other plant debris that surround the plant.
These natural survival mechanisms can give you clues why your potted Christmas cactus is developing aerial roots. For example, low light can cause the plant to send out aerial roots in an attempt to absorb more sunlight. If this is the case, moving the plant into brighter sunlight may diminish the growth of aerial roots. Similarly, the plant may develop aerial roots because it is reaching out to find more water or nutrients. Water the plant deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting soil feels dry to the touch. Water sparingly during fall and winter, providing just enough moisture to keep the plant from wilting. Feed the plant once every month, beginning in late winter or early spring, using a regular houseplant fertilizer. Stop fertilizing in October when the plant is preparing to bloom.
Why Christmas Cactus Has Aerial Roots
If you notice root-like growths on Christmas cactus, don’t be overly concerned. Christmas cactus is an epiphytic plant that grows on trees or rocks in its natural habitat. The roots growing from Christmas cactus are actually aerial roots that help the plant cling to its host. The plant is not a parasite because it doesn’t depend on the tree for food and water. This is where the roots come in handy. Christmas cactus aerial roots help the plant reach sunlight and absorb necessary moisture and nutrients from leaves, humus and other plant debris that surround the plant.
These natural survival mechanisms can give you clues why your potted Christmas cactus is developing aerial roots. For example, low light can cause the plant to send out aerial roots in an attempt to absorb more sunlight. If this is the case, moving the plant into brighter sunlight may diminish the growth of aerial roots. Similarly, the plant may develop aerial roots because it is reaching out to find more water or nutrients. Water the plant deeply whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting soil feels dry to the touch. Water sparingly during fall and winter, providing just enough moisture to keep the plant from wilting. Feed the plant once every month, beginning in late winter or early spring, using a regular houseplant fertilizer. Stop fertilizing in October when the plant is preparing to bloom.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Can I plant my Christmas cactus outside, you ask? Can Christmas cactus be outside? The answer is yes, but you can only grow the plant outdoors year round if you live in a warm climate because Christmas cactus is definitely not cold hardy. Growing Christmas cactus outdoors is possible only in USDA plant hardiness zones 9 and above.
How to Grow a Christmas Cactus Outside
If you live in a cool climate, plant Christmas cactus in a container or hanging basket so you can bring it indoors when temperatures fall below 50 F. (10 C.) Use a well-drained potting medium such as a mixture of potting soil, perlite and orchid bark. A location in light shade or early morning sun is best for growing Christmas cactus outdoors in warmer climates, although a sunnier location is suitable in fall and winter. Beware of intense light, which may bleach the leaves. Temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) are ideal during the growing season. Be careful of sudden changes in light and temperatures, which may cause the buds to drop.
Christmas Cactus Outdoor Care
As part of your care of Christmas cactus outside, you’ll need to water Christmas cactus when the soil is on the dry side, but not bone dry. Don’t overwater Christmas cactus, especially during the winter months. Soggy soil may result in rot, a fungal disease that is usually deadly. Christmas cactus outdoor care involves regular inspection for pests. Watch for mealybugs – tiny, sap-sucking pests that thrive in cool, shady conditions. If you notice telltale white cottony masses, pick them off with a toothpick or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. A Christmas cactus growing outdoors is also susceptible to aphids, scale and mites, which are easily removed by periodic spraying with insecticidal soap spray or neem oil. Trim Christmas cactus in early summer by removing two or three segments. A regular trim will promote full, bushy growth.
How to Grow a Christmas Cactus Outside
If you live in a cool climate, plant Christmas cactus in a container or hanging basket so you can bring it indoors when temperatures fall below 50 F. (10 C.) Use a well-drained potting medium such as a mixture of potting soil, perlite and orchid bark. A location in light shade or early morning sun is best for growing Christmas cactus outdoors in warmer climates, although a sunnier location is suitable in fall and winter. Beware of intense light, which may bleach the leaves. Temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) are ideal during the growing season. Be careful of sudden changes in light and temperatures, which may cause the buds to drop.
Christmas Cactus Outdoor Care
As part of your care of Christmas cactus outside, you’ll need to water Christmas cactus when the soil is on the dry side, but not bone dry. Don’t overwater Christmas cactus, especially during the winter months. Soggy soil may result in rot, a fungal disease that is usually deadly. Christmas cactus outdoor care involves regular inspection for pests. Watch for mealybugs – tiny, sap-sucking pests that thrive in cool, shady conditions. If you notice telltale white cottony masses, pick them off with a toothpick or a cotton swab dipped in alcohol. A Christmas cactus growing outdoors is also susceptible to aphids, scale and mites, which are easily removed by periodic spraying with insecticidal soap spray or neem oil. Trim Christmas cactus in early summer by removing two or three segments. A regular trim will promote full, bushy growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月16日
Leaves Dropping From Christmas Cactus: Fixing Leaf Drop On Christmas Cactus
Christmas cactus is relatively easy to grow, so if you notice Christmas cactus leaves dropping off, you’re justifiably mystified and concerned about the health of your plant. It isn’t always easy to determine what causes leaves dropping from Christmas cactus, but there are a number of possibilities. So why do Christmas cacti drop their leaves, you ask? Read on to learn more.
Why Do Christmas Cacti Drop Their Leaves?
Most frequently grown as a houseplant, it has the distinct property of blooming when the days are shortest, bringing color and brightness when most other plants are dying or settling in for the winter. This is all the more reason to be concerned when your Christmas cactus is losing leaves. Preventing and fixing leaf drop on Christmas cactus may be as simple as pinpointing the problem. When otherwise healthy leaves fall from Christmas cactus plants, there are a few possible reasons, with the following being the most common:
Improper watering – When it comes to caring for Christmas cactus, overwatering is a big no-no. Although Christmas cactus requires more moisture than its desert cousins, too much water can cause the plant to rot – a common cause for leaves dropping from Christmas cactus. Although not quite so common, underwatering can also cause leaves to drop. As a rule of thumb, a Christmas cactus should be watered about once a week, or when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water until moisture trickles through the drainage hole, then allow the pot to drain completely before placing it on the top. Don’t allow the soil to become bone dry, but never allow it to remain soggy. Water the plant sparingly during fall and winter. Poorly-drained soil – If your Christmas cactus leaves are falling off, it may also be caused by soil that is too dense or compacted. Christmas cactus requires porous, well-drained soil. If the soil is compacted or doesn’t drain well, it may benefit from repotting in a clean pot with fresh potting soil. A potting mix consisting of approximately 75 percent regular, good quality potting soil with 25 percent sand or perlite works well. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Temperature – Too much heat or cold may be to blame for Christmas cactus leaves dropping off. Christmas cactus doesn’t appreciate cold temperature. As a general rule, the plant prefers temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) during spring and summer, and slightly cooler temperatures during fall and winter. Don’t allow temperatures to rise above 90 F. (32 C.). Cooler temperatures are beneficial while the plant is setting buds, but never below 50 F. (10 C.).
Avoid sudden temperature changes and protect the plant from drafty windows and heat sources such as fireplaces or vents. If you’ve just bought your Christmas cactus or just moved it in from its summer spot outdoors, it’s probably experiencing a big change in environment. The shock of this change may make it drop a few leaves, and there’s not much that can be done about this. Light – Christmas cactus performs best in bright, indirect sunlight and may be damaged in bright, intense light, especially during the summer. One nice thing about a Christmas cactus dropping leaves is that these plants are very easy to propagate. What we refer to as “leaves” are really segmented branches. As long as they’re healthy looking, try planting your dropped branch in a new container – chances are good that it will take root and grow into a new plant.
Christmas cactus is relatively easy to grow, so if you notice Christmas cactus leaves dropping off, you’re justifiably mystified and concerned about the health of your plant. It isn’t always easy to determine what causes leaves dropping from Christmas cactus, but there are a number of possibilities. So why do Christmas cacti drop their leaves, you ask? Read on to learn more.
Why Do Christmas Cacti Drop Their Leaves?
Most frequently grown as a houseplant, it has the distinct property of blooming when the days are shortest, bringing color and brightness when most other plants are dying or settling in for the winter. This is all the more reason to be concerned when your Christmas cactus is losing leaves. Preventing and fixing leaf drop on Christmas cactus may be as simple as pinpointing the problem. When otherwise healthy leaves fall from Christmas cactus plants, there are a few possible reasons, with the following being the most common:
Improper watering – When it comes to caring for Christmas cactus, overwatering is a big no-no. Although Christmas cactus requires more moisture than its desert cousins, too much water can cause the plant to rot – a common cause for leaves dropping from Christmas cactus. Although not quite so common, underwatering can also cause leaves to drop. As a rule of thumb, a Christmas cactus should be watered about once a week, or when the top of the soil feels dry to the touch. Water until moisture trickles through the drainage hole, then allow the pot to drain completely before placing it on the top. Don’t allow the soil to become bone dry, but never allow it to remain soggy. Water the plant sparingly during fall and winter. Poorly-drained soil – If your Christmas cactus leaves are falling off, it may also be caused by soil that is too dense or compacted. Christmas cactus requires porous, well-drained soil. If the soil is compacted or doesn’t drain well, it may benefit from repotting in a clean pot with fresh potting soil. A potting mix consisting of approximately 75 percent regular, good quality potting soil with 25 percent sand or perlite works well. Be sure the pot has a drainage hole. Temperature – Too much heat or cold may be to blame for Christmas cactus leaves dropping off. Christmas cactus doesn’t appreciate cold temperature. As a general rule, the plant prefers temperatures between 70 and 80 F. (21-27 C.) during spring and summer, and slightly cooler temperatures during fall and winter. Don’t allow temperatures to rise above 90 F. (32 C.). Cooler temperatures are beneficial while the plant is setting buds, but never below 50 F. (10 C.).
Avoid sudden temperature changes and protect the plant from drafty windows and heat sources such as fireplaces or vents. If you’ve just bought your Christmas cactus or just moved it in from its summer spot outdoors, it’s probably experiencing a big change in environment. The shock of this change may make it drop a few leaves, and there’s not much that can be done about this. Light – Christmas cactus performs best in bright, indirect sunlight and may be damaged in bright, intense light, especially during the summer. One nice thing about a Christmas cactus dropping leaves is that these plants are very easy to propagate. What we refer to as “leaves” are really segmented branches. As long as they’re healthy looking, try planting your dropped branch in a new container – chances are good that it will take root and grow into a new plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Aeoniums are fleshy leaved succulents that grow in a pronounced rosette shape. Growing aeoniums is easy in areas with few freezes. They can also grow indoors, in a sunny window where temperatures are toasty warm. Learn how to grow an aeonium plant for unique texture and form in both indoor and outdoor garden displays.
What Are Aeoniums?
Succulent plants have a special adaptive survival strategy for hot, dry locations. They come in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. What are aeoniums? These plants also have the fleshy leaved characteristic of succulents, where they store moisture. Unlike many other succulents, however, aeonium have shallow root systems and cannot be allowed to dry out completely. Only the top few inches of soil should be allowed to dry out when growing aeoniums. There are over 35 aeonium species, in a graduating range of sizes.
Aeonium Uses
Consider growing aeoniums as part of a cactus or succulent display. They do well in shallow pots with a mixture of cactus soil and peat. You can combine them with other plants such as aloe, agave or jade plants. Place a thin layer of inorganic mulch such as ornamental rock around the plants and place in a sunny warm location. For outdoor use, place them along sunny borders or in rockeries. In temperate or cooler zones, frost may kill the foliage and the rosette will fall off. If the plant is mulched it will grow anew in spring.
How to Grow an Aeonium Plant
Provide the plant with well-drained soil in a sunny location. They prefer temperatures between 40 and 100 F. (4-38 C.). These succulents are very easy to grow from cuttings. You really just have to cut off a rosette and let the cut end dry out for a couple of days. Then set it in lightly moist peat moss. The piece will root quickly and produce a new plant.
Caring for Aeonium Plants
Aeonium care is remarkably easy. Plants in containers require more frequent watering than those in ground. Fertilize aeonium in containers once annually in spring when new growth commences. In-ground plants rarely need fertilizer, but may benefit from a light coating of mulch just around the base of the plant. Be careful not to pile it up around the stem or rot might set in. The most common problems when caring for aeonium plants are root rot and insects. Root rot is prevented by using clay pots with good drainage or checking soil percolation prior to planting. Keep the roots moist but never soggy. Good aeonium care also requires you to watch for pests. Mites and scale may attach the succulents. Combat these with horticultural soaps or neem oil. Be careful when using soap spays, however. Spraying too frequently can cause discoloration and lesions on the skin of the plant.
What Are Aeoniums?
Succulent plants have a special adaptive survival strategy for hot, dry locations. They come in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. What are aeoniums? These plants also have the fleshy leaved characteristic of succulents, where they store moisture. Unlike many other succulents, however, aeonium have shallow root systems and cannot be allowed to dry out completely. Only the top few inches of soil should be allowed to dry out when growing aeoniums. There are over 35 aeonium species, in a graduating range of sizes.
Aeonium Uses
Consider growing aeoniums as part of a cactus or succulent display. They do well in shallow pots with a mixture of cactus soil and peat. You can combine them with other plants such as aloe, agave or jade plants. Place a thin layer of inorganic mulch such as ornamental rock around the plants and place in a sunny warm location. For outdoor use, place them along sunny borders or in rockeries. In temperate or cooler zones, frost may kill the foliage and the rosette will fall off. If the plant is mulched it will grow anew in spring.
How to Grow an Aeonium Plant
Provide the plant with well-drained soil in a sunny location. They prefer temperatures between 40 and 100 F. (4-38 C.). These succulents are very easy to grow from cuttings. You really just have to cut off a rosette and let the cut end dry out for a couple of days. Then set it in lightly moist peat moss. The piece will root quickly and produce a new plant.
Caring for Aeonium Plants
Aeonium care is remarkably easy. Plants in containers require more frequent watering than those in ground. Fertilize aeonium in containers once annually in spring when new growth commences. In-ground plants rarely need fertilizer, but may benefit from a light coating of mulch just around the base of the plant. Be careful not to pile it up around the stem or rot might set in. The most common problems when caring for aeonium plants are root rot and insects. Root rot is prevented by using clay pots with good drainage or checking soil percolation prior to planting. Keep the roots moist but never soggy. Good aeonium care also requires you to watch for pests. Mites and scale may attach the succulents. Combat these with horticultural soaps or neem oil. Be careful when using soap spays, however. Spraying too frequently can cause discoloration and lesions on the skin of the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
While usually an easy plant to grow in rock gardens and hot, dry areas, agave can be susceptible to bacterial and fungal rots if exposed to too much moisture and humidity. Cool, wet spring weather that rapidly changes to hot, humid summer can cause a surge in fungal growth and pest populations. Mid to late summer crown rot of agave plants can be common in cooler climates and potted plants. Read on to learn what you can do for agave plants with crown rot.
What is Agave Crown Rot?
Agave, or century plant, is native to the deserts of Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. In landscaping, they can be a stunning addition to rock gardens and other xeriscaping projects. The best way to prevent root and crown rot of agave plants is to situate them in a location with excellent drainage, infrequent irrigation and full sun.
Agave plants should also never be watered overhead, a slow trickle of water right at the root zone can prevent the splashing and spreading of fungal spores, as well as prevent the crown rot that can happen if water pools up in the crown of agave plants. Pumice, crushed stone or sand can be added to the soil when planting an agave to provide more drainage. Container grown agave will do best in a cacti or succulent soil mixture. Crown rot of agave may present itself as gray or mottled lesions or, in extreme cases, the plant’s leaves may entirely turn gray or black and shrivel right where they grow out from the crown. Red/orange fungal spores may also be obvious near the plant crown. Crown and root rots in agave can also be caused by an insect called the agave snout weevil, which injects bacteria into the plant as it chews on its leaves. The bacteria causes soft squishy lesions in the plant where the pest then lays its eggs. Once hatched, the weevil larvae tunnel their way to the roots and soil, spreading rot as they work their way throughout the plant.
How to Save Plants with Crown Rot
It is important to regularly inspect your agave plant for signs of insect chewing and rot, especially if it not growing in the optimal conditions. If caught early enough, fungal and bacterial rots can be controlled with selective pruning and treatment of fungicides such as thiophanate methyl or neem oil. Leaves with chew marks or lesions should be cut off at the crown and disposed of immediately. When pruning away diseased plant tissues, it’s recommended that you dip pruners in a mixture of bleach and water between each cut. In extreme cases of rot, it may be necessary to dig up the whole plant, remove all soil from the roots, prune off all crown and root rot that is present and, if there is any plant left, treat it with fungicide and replant it in a new location. Or it may be best to dig up the plant and replace it with a disease resistant variety. Before planting anything in the area that an infected plant was growing in, you should sterilize the soil, which could still contain pests and disease after the infected plant has been removed.
What is Agave Crown Rot?
Agave, or century plant, is native to the deserts of Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. In landscaping, they can be a stunning addition to rock gardens and other xeriscaping projects. The best way to prevent root and crown rot of agave plants is to situate them in a location with excellent drainage, infrequent irrigation and full sun.
Agave plants should also never be watered overhead, a slow trickle of water right at the root zone can prevent the splashing and spreading of fungal spores, as well as prevent the crown rot that can happen if water pools up in the crown of agave plants. Pumice, crushed stone or sand can be added to the soil when planting an agave to provide more drainage. Container grown agave will do best in a cacti or succulent soil mixture. Crown rot of agave may present itself as gray or mottled lesions or, in extreme cases, the plant’s leaves may entirely turn gray or black and shrivel right where they grow out from the crown. Red/orange fungal spores may also be obvious near the plant crown. Crown and root rots in agave can also be caused by an insect called the agave snout weevil, which injects bacteria into the plant as it chews on its leaves. The bacteria causes soft squishy lesions in the plant where the pest then lays its eggs. Once hatched, the weevil larvae tunnel their way to the roots and soil, spreading rot as they work their way throughout the plant.
How to Save Plants with Crown Rot
It is important to regularly inspect your agave plant for signs of insect chewing and rot, especially if it not growing in the optimal conditions. If caught early enough, fungal and bacterial rots can be controlled with selective pruning and treatment of fungicides such as thiophanate methyl or neem oil. Leaves with chew marks or lesions should be cut off at the crown and disposed of immediately. When pruning away diseased plant tissues, it’s recommended that you dip pruners in a mixture of bleach and water between each cut. In extreme cases of rot, it may be necessary to dig up the whole plant, remove all soil from the roots, prune off all crown and root rot that is present and, if there is any plant left, treat it with fungicide and replant it in a new location. Or it may be best to dig up the plant and replace it with a disease resistant variety. Before planting anything in the area that an infected plant was growing in, you should sterilize the soil, which could still contain pests and disease after the infected plant has been removed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Agave is a desert plant, native to Mexico and hardy in zones 8-10. While generally a low maintenance, easy-to-grow plant, agave can be susceptible to fungal and bacterial rots, as well as pest problems such as the agave snout weevil and the agave plant bug (Caulotops barberi). If you have noticed bugs eating agave plants in your landscape, continue reading to learn more about Caulotops barberi pests and controlling agave plant bugs in the garden.
What are Caulotops Barberi Pests?
In the landscape, agave plants can potentially grow to a height and spread of 20 feet. However, these landscape grown agaves can be susceptible to the Caulotops barberi pest, resulting in stunted or irregular growth. If you notice stunted or distorted growth, speckled or spotted foliage, or what appears to be scabs or chew marks on your agave plants, you may wonder, “Are bugs on my agave?” The answer may be a resounding, yes! The agave plant bug is also commonly called the agave running bug because for such a small insect, it has long legs, enabling the insect to run very quickly.
These 1.6 mm long insects can go almost unnoticed because they are so small and will quickly hide if they feel threatened. Agave plant bugs are most likely the culprit in U.S. hardiness zones 8-10. Container grown agave plants in cooler climates are rarely effected by this pest, though. In late summer to early fall, large populations of agave plant bugs may infest agave and other succulents, causing massive damage to a xeriscape. In groups, these small tan-black colored insects are much easier to spot, but by then you’ll have quite an infestation to try to rid your landscape of and damage to some of the plants may be irreversible.
Agave Plant Bug Control
Insecticidal soap or broad spectrum insecticides can be effective in controlling agave plant bugs. However, these tiny insects can hide in soil, mulch and garden debris around the infected plant, so it is necessary to treat all areas around the plant as well. Keep beds clear of debris to eliminate hiding places. Insecticides should be applied in the early morning or late at night, when Caulotops barberi pests are most active. Agave plant bug control should be repeated every two weeks to ensure eradication of this pest. Be sure to spray all surfaces of the plant, as these small insects can easily hide in every nook and cranny. A preventative systemic insecticide can be used in spring to help control agave pests.
What are Caulotops Barberi Pests?
In the landscape, agave plants can potentially grow to a height and spread of 20 feet. However, these landscape grown agaves can be susceptible to the Caulotops barberi pest, resulting in stunted or irregular growth. If you notice stunted or distorted growth, speckled or spotted foliage, or what appears to be scabs or chew marks on your agave plants, you may wonder, “Are bugs on my agave?” The answer may be a resounding, yes! The agave plant bug is also commonly called the agave running bug because for such a small insect, it has long legs, enabling the insect to run very quickly.
These 1.6 mm long insects can go almost unnoticed because they are so small and will quickly hide if they feel threatened. Agave plant bugs are most likely the culprit in U.S. hardiness zones 8-10. Container grown agave plants in cooler climates are rarely effected by this pest, though. In late summer to early fall, large populations of agave plant bugs may infest agave and other succulents, causing massive damage to a xeriscape. In groups, these small tan-black colored insects are much easier to spot, but by then you’ll have quite an infestation to try to rid your landscape of and damage to some of the plants may be irreversible.
Agave Plant Bug Control
Insecticidal soap or broad spectrum insecticides can be effective in controlling agave plant bugs. However, these tiny insects can hide in soil, mulch and garden debris around the infected plant, so it is necessary to treat all areas around the plant as well. Keep beds clear of debris to eliminate hiding places. Insecticides should be applied in the early morning or late at night, when Caulotops barberi pests are most active. Agave plant bug control should be repeated every two weeks to ensure eradication of this pest. Be sure to spray all surfaces of the plant, as these small insects can easily hide in every nook and cranny. A preventative systemic insecticide can be used in spring to help control agave pests.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Can agave grow in pots? You bet! With so many varieties of agave available, container grown agave plants are an excellent choice for the gardener with limited space, less than perfect soil conditions, and a lack of abundant sunlight. Since most agaves thrive year round in warmer climates, container plants are also a wonderful choice for gardeners living in climates that experience colder temperatures.Potted agave also provide the flexibility of being mobile. Growing agave plants in pots allows you to move the containers to the location that provides the light, temperature and weather conditions that will help your agave thrive.
How to Grow Agave in Containers
Growing agave plants in pots is fun and rewarding. Any agave can be grown in a container, but the smaller varieties are the most popular. Agave plants love to be root bound, so growing them in pots make these plants excellent candidates for houseplants.
All container grown agave pants need a soil that dries slowly but drains quickly. For outdoor containers, you can make a good soil mixture by mixing equal parts of compost; potting mix or garden soil; and either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. Do not use peat moss, which is undesirable for agave plant growing. For indoor grown agave, make sure you use a sterilized potting mix combined with either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. When you pot your agave, do not bury the plant too deeply in the soil. Make sure the crown of the plant is above the soil line to prevent crown rot, a disease that is detrimental to agave plants.
Potted Agave Care
Agave plants need plenty of sunlight. If you are growing agave plants indoors, choose a bright, sunny window with as much sun possible. A south- or west-facing window works very well. Keep your agave sufficiently watered, and always water completely, making sure the soil is at least half dry before watering again. If you are not sure the soil is dry enough, it is better to wait a day to avoid over-watering your plant. Don’t forget to fertilize. Late spring and summer are the times to feed your container grown agave with a balanced (20-20-20), all-purpose liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
How to Grow Agave in Containers
Growing agave plants in pots is fun and rewarding. Any agave can be grown in a container, but the smaller varieties are the most popular. Agave plants love to be root bound, so growing them in pots make these plants excellent candidates for houseplants.
All container grown agave pants need a soil that dries slowly but drains quickly. For outdoor containers, you can make a good soil mixture by mixing equal parts of compost; potting mix or garden soil; and either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. Do not use peat moss, which is undesirable for agave plant growing. For indoor grown agave, make sure you use a sterilized potting mix combined with either gravel, pumice, or coarse sand. When you pot your agave, do not bury the plant too deeply in the soil. Make sure the crown of the plant is above the soil line to prevent crown rot, a disease that is detrimental to agave plants.
Potted Agave Care
Agave plants need plenty of sunlight. If you are growing agave plants indoors, choose a bright, sunny window with as much sun possible. A south- or west-facing window works very well. Keep your agave sufficiently watered, and always water completely, making sure the soil is at least half dry before watering again. If you are not sure the soil is dry enough, it is better to wait a day to avoid over-watering your plant. Don’t forget to fertilize. Late spring and summer are the times to feed your container grown agave with a balanced (20-20-20), all-purpose liquid fertilizer at half-strength once a month.
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