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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
The thyme herb (Thymus vulgaris) is frequently used for both culinary and decorative uses. The thyme plant is a versatile and lovely plant to grow both in an herb garden and in your garden in general. Growing thyme isn’t hard, and with the correct knowledge, this herb will flourish in your yard.
Growing Thyme Seeds
The thyme plant can be grown from seed, but frequently people choose to avoid growing thyme seeds. Thyme seeds are difficult to germinate and can take a long time to sprout. If you would like to grow thyme from seeds, follow these steps for growing thyme seeds: Gently scatter seeds over the soil in the container you will be planting thyme seeds. Next, gently scatter soil over the seeds. Water thoroughly. Cover with plastic wrap. Place the container in a warm location. Seeds will germinate in one to 12 weeks. Once thyme seedlings are 4 inches high, plant them where you will be growing thyme in your garden.
Planting Thyme from Divisions
Normally, a thyme plant is grown from a division. Thyme is easy to divide. In the spring or fall, find a mature thyme plant. Use a spade to gently lift the clump of thyme up from the ground. Tear or cut a smaller clump of thyme from the main plant, making sure there is a root ball intact on the division. Replant the mother plant and plant the division where you would like to grow the thyme herb.
Tips for Growing Thyme
The flavor of the thyme plant benefits from active neglect. Growing thyme in poor soil with little water will actually cause the thyme to grow better. For this reason, thyme herb is an excellent choice for xeriscaping or low water landscapes. In the late fall, if you live in an area that freezes, you’ll want to mulch the thyme plant. Be sure to remove the mulch in the spring.
Harvesting Thyme Herb
Harvesting thyme is easy. Simply snip off what you need for your recipe. Once a thyme plant is established (about a year), it’s very hard to over-harvest the plant. If you have just planted your thyme, cut back no more than one-third of the plant.
Growing Thyme Seeds
The thyme plant can be grown from seed, but frequently people choose to avoid growing thyme seeds. Thyme seeds are difficult to germinate and can take a long time to sprout. If you would like to grow thyme from seeds, follow these steps for growing thyme seeds: Gently scatter seeds over the soil in the container you will be planting thyme seeds. Next, gently scatter soil over the seeds. Water thoroughly. Cover with plastic wrap. Place the container in a warm location. Seeds will germinate in one to 12 weeks. Once thyme seedlings are 4 inches high, plant them where you will be growing thyme in your garden.
Planting Thyme from Divisions
Normally, a thyme plant is grown from a division. Thyme is easy to divide. In the spring or fall, find a mature thyme plant. Use a spade to gently lift the clump of thyme up from the ground. Tear or cut a smaller clump of thyme from the main plant, making sure there is a root ball intact on the division. Replant the mother plant and plant the division where you would like to grow the thyme herb.
Tips for Growing Thyme
The flavor of the thyme plant benefits from active neglect. Growing thyme in poor soil with little water will actually cause the thyme to grow better. For this reason, thyme herb is an excellent choice for xeriscaping or low water landscapes. In the late fall, if you live in an area that freezes, you’ll want to mulch the thyme plant. Be sure to remove the mulch in the spring.
Harvesting Thyme Herb
Harvesting thyme is easy. Simply snip off what you need for your recipe. Once a thyme plant is established (about a year), it’s very hard to over-harvest the plant. If you have just planted your thyme, cut back no more than one-third of the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing tarragon indoors allows you easy access to the herb and gives the plant protection from cold temperatures. Tarragon is only half hardy and doesn’t perform well when exposed to winter chill. There are a few tips to learning how to grow tarragon indoors. Herbs generally like dry soil, bright light and temperatures near 70 F. (21 C.). Growing tarragon inside is easy if you just follow a few simple requirements.
How to Grow Tarragon Indoors
Tarragon is an attractive herb with slender, slightly twisted leaves. The plant is a perennial and will reward you will many seasons of flavor if you care for it well. Tarragon grows as a many stemmed bush that can get semi-woody as it ages. While most herbs thrive in full sun, tarragon seems to perform best in a lower or diffused light situation. Allow a location of at least 24 inches height for growing tarragon inside. If your kitchen has a window facing anywhere but south, you can successfully grow tarragon. The leaves are the useful part of the plant and are best used fresh. They add a light anise flavor to foods and are good paired with fish or chicken. Tarragon leaves also impart their flavor to vinegar and lends its flavor to sauces, dressings and marinades. Planting tarragon indoors in the kitchen herb garden is an excellent way to take advantage of this fresh herb.
Herbs need good drainage so the choice of pot is important. A clay pot that is not glazed will allow excess moisture to evaporate. The pot also needs several drainage holes and should be at least 12 to 16 inches deep. Use three parts of a good potting soil with the addition of one part sand to give the mixture good tilth and enhance draining. Add other herbs with similar requirements when planting tarragon indoors. This will give you many flavors and textures to chose from when cooking. Give tarragon growing indoors at least six to eight hours of light. Fertilize the herb with a dilution of fish fertilizer every two weeks. Don’t overwater when growing tarragon inside. Indoor herbs should be kept on the dry side. Provide a thorough watering and then allow the plant to dry out between periods of irrigation. Provide humidity by spritzing the plant with water every couple of days.
Moving Tarragon Outside
Tarragon can get almost 2 feet in height and may require pruning or division. If you want to just move the plant outside and get a smaller one for indoors, you need to acclimate it first by moving the plant outdoors for gradually longer periods over two weeks. You can also cut the root ball of the tarragon in half and replant both halves in different locations for more plants. If the tarragon growing indoors is well cared for, it will need pruning. Prune back to a growth node or remove entire stems back to the primary stem.
How to Grow Tarragon Indoors
Tarragon is an attractive herb with slender, slightly twisted leaves. The plant is a perennial and will reward you will many seasons of flavor if you care for it well. Tarragon grows as a many stemmed bush that can get semi-woody as it ages. While most herbs thrive in full sun, tarragon seems to perform best in a lower or diffused light situation. Allow a location of at least 24 inches height for growing tarragon inside. If your kitchen has a window facing anywhere but south, you can successfully grow tarragon. The leaves are the useful part of the plant and are best used fresh. They add a light anise flavor to foods and are good paired with fish or chicken. Tarragon leaves also impart their flavor to vinegar and lends its flavor to sauces, dressings and marinades. Planting tarragon indoors in the kitchen herb garden is an excellent way to take advantage of this fresh herb.
Herbs need good drainage so the choice of pot is important. A clay pot that is not glazed will allow excess moisture to evaporate. The pot also needs several drainage holes and should be at least 12 to 16 inches deep. Use three parts of a good potting soil with the addition of one part sand to give the mixture good tilth and enhance draining. Add other herbs with similar requirements when planting tarragon indoors. This will give you many flavors and textures to chose from when cooking. Give tarragon growing indoors at least six to eight hours of light. Fertilize the herb with a dilution of fish fertilizer every two weeks. Don’t overwater when growing tarragon inside. Indoor herbs should be kept on the dry side. Provide a thorough watering and then allow the plant to dry out between periods of irrigation. Provide humidity by spritzing the plant with water every couple of days.
Moving Tarragon Outside
Tarragon can get almost 2 feet in height and may require pruning or division. If you want to just move the plant outside and get a smaller one for indoors, you need to acclimate it first by moving the plant outdoors for gradually longer periods over two weeks. You can also cut the root ball of the tarragon in half and replant both halves in different locations for more plants. If the tarragon growing indoors is well cared for, it will need pruning. Prune back to a growth node or remove entire stems back to the primary stem.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
While you may have parsley, sage, rosemaryand thymein your herb garden, you may be lacking in savory. There are two types of savory, summer and winter but here we’re going to focus on how to grow winter savory herbs. Read on to find out about the care and growing of winter savory and other winter savory plant info.
Winter Savory Plant Info
Winter savory (Satureja montana) is an herbaceous, perennial hardy to USDA zone 6 while summer savory is grown as an annual. The ancient Roman writer, Pliny, named the genus ‘Satureja,’ which is derived from the word “satyr,” a half goat and half man mythological being who reveled in all savory delights. It was these ancient Romans that introduced the herb to England around the time of Caesar’s reign.
Both winter and summer savory have a strong peppery flavor, although winter savory has a more pungent flavor than summer. Both herbs can be used in a variety of foods and help to enliven flavor without the use of additional salt and pepper. For this reason, winter savory herbs are often paired with beans during cooking since the addition of salt at that time would toughen the beans. Savory is not only used in a variety of culinary preparations, but the dried leaves are often added to potpourri. The fresh or dried leaves can also be used to infuse vinegar, herb butters or steeped for tea.
How to Grow Winter Savory
Winter savory is a hardy semi-evergreen bush with glossy, dark green leaves and woody stems. It is easy to grow and, once established, care of winter savory is nominal. It can be used as a border plant in the herb garden or planted as a companion plant along with beans where it is said that growing winter savory keeps bean weevils away. Winter savory is also planted near roses where it is purported to reduce mildew and aphid infestations. This herb gets from 6-12 inches in height and 8-12 inches across. Like most herbs, it thrives in full sun of at least six hours per day in well-draining soil with a pH of 6.7. Sow seeds in the spring in flats to transplant outdoors once the soil warms; transplant seedlings 10-12 inches apart in the garden.
Winter savory can also be propagated via cuttings. Take cuttings, the tips of new shoots, in late spring and place them in pots of wet sand. When the cuttings root, transplant them to the garden or into another container. Harvest winter savory in the morning when the essential oils are at their most potent. It can then be dried or used fresh. In temperate climates, winter savory will go dormant in the winter and put out new leaves in the spring. Older plants tend to get woody, so keep them pruned out to encourage new growth.
Winter Savory Plant Info
Winter savory (Satureja montana) is an herbaceous, perennial hardy to USDA zone 6 while summer savory is grown as an annual. The ancient Roman writer, Pliny, named the genus ‘Satureja,’ which is derived from the word “satyr,” a half goat and half man mythological being who reveled in all savory delights. It was these ancient Romans that introduced the herb to England around the time of Caesar’s reign.
Both winter and summer savory have a strong peppery flavor, although winter savory has a more pungent flavor than summer. Both herbs can be used in a variety of foods and help to enliven flavor without the use of additional salt and pepper. For this reason, winter savory herbs are often paired with beans during cooking since the addition of salt at that time would toughen the beans. Savory is not only used in a variety of culinary preparations, but the dried leaves are often added to potpourri. The fresh or dried leaves can also be used to infuse vinegar, herb butters or steeped for tea.
How to Grow Winter Savory
Winter savory is a hardy semi-evergreen bush with glossy, dark green leaves and woody stems. It is easy to grow and, once established, care of winter savory is nominal. It can be used as a border plant in the herb garden or planted as a companion plant along with beans where it is said that growing winter savory keeps bean weevils away. Winter savory is also planted near roses where it is purported to reduce mildew and aphid infestations. This herb gets from 6-12 inches in height and 8-12 inches across. Like most herbs, it thrives in full sun of at least six hours per day in well-draining soil with a pH of 6.7. Sow seeds in the spring in flats to transplant outdoors once the soil warms; transplant seedlings 10-12 inches apart in the garden.
Winter savory can also be propagated via cuttings. Take cuttings, the tips of new shoots, in late spring and place them in pots of wet sand. When the cuttings root, transplant them to the garden or into another container. Harvest winter savory in the morning when the essential oils are at their most potent. It can then be dried or used fresh. In temperate climates, winter savory will go dormant in the winter and put out new leaves in the spring. Older plants tend to get woody, so keep them pruned out to encourage new growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Creeping savory in gardens are compact, fragrant plants at home in herb gardens or along borders or pathways. These easy-to-grow herbs are also well suited for containers or window boxes where the trailing stems can cascade over the edges. At only 2 to 4 inches tall, creeping savory plants make ideal ground covers. This hardy little herb is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. Read to learn about growing creeping savory in your own garden.
Creeping Savory Uses
Creeping savory (Satureja spicigera) is a variety of savory herb and, as such, its uses are many. Here are just a few of the most common creeping savory uses in the garden:
Traditionally, savory was used to relieve sore throats, coughs, flatulence, diarrhea, menstrual problems, arthritis and insect bites. It shouldn’t be used by pregnant women. Creeping savory has a flavor similar to thymeor marjoram. It is used either fresh or dried to flavor a variety of foods. In the garden, creeping savory blooms attract bees and other beneficial insects. It is said to repel certain types of pests when companion planted near onionsor beans.
Growing Creeping Savory Plants
Learn how to care for creeping savory in the garden is an easy endeavor. Creeping savory thrives in sunny, arid conditions and nearly any type of well-drained soil, including poor, highly alkaline soil. The plant tolerates intense heat and drought and tends to become leggy in shade. Plant creeping savory seeds in late winter or after frost danger has passed in early spring. You can also propagate creeping savory by taking cuttings of mature plants. The seeds may be difficult to find. Keep new creeping savory plants moist until the plants are established. Thereafter, water sparingly. In general, creeping savory plants require water only during dry spells. Pinch the tips of new growth in spring to encourage full, bushy growth.
Creeping Savory Uses
Creeping savory (Satureja spicigera) is a variety of savory herb and, as such, its uses are many. Here are just a few of the most common creeping savory uses in the garden:
Traditionally, savory was used to relieve sore throats, coughs, flatulence, diarrhea, menstrual problems, arthritis and insect bites. It shouldn’t be used by pregnant women. Creeping savory has a flavor similar to thymeor marjoram. It is used either fresh or dried to flavor a variety of foods. In the garden, creeping savory blooms attract bees and other beneficial insects. It is said to repel certain types of pests when companion planted near onionsor beans.
Growing Creeping Savory Plants
Learn how to care for creeping savory in the garden is an easy endeavor. Creeping savory thrives in sunny, arid conditions and nearly any type of well-drained soil, including poor, highly alkaline soil. The plant tolerates intense heat and drought and tends to become leggy in shade. Plant creeping savory seeds in late winter or after frost danger has passed in early spring. You can also propagate creeping savory by taking cuttings of mature plants. The seeds may be difficult to find. Keep new creeping savory plants moist until the plants are established. Thereafter, water sparingly. In general, creeping savory plants require water only during dry spells. Pinch the tips of new growth in spring to encourage full, bushy growth.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Saffron has often been described as a spice that is worth more than its weight in gold. It’s so expensive that you may wonder “Can I grow saffron crocus bulbs and harvest my own saffron?” The answer is yes, you can grow saffron in your home garden. Keep reading to learn how to grow saffron.
Before Growing Saffron Crocus
Saffron comes from the saffron crocus bulb (Crocus sativus), which is an autumn blooming crocus. The spice is actually the red stigmas of this crocus flower. Each flower will only produce three stigmas and each saffron crocus bulb will only produce one flower.
When growing saffron, first find a place to purchase the saffron crocus bulbs. Most people turn to a reputable online nursery to purchase them, though you may find them for sale at a small local nursery. It’s highly unlikely that you’ll find them at a chain store or big box store. Once you have purchased the saffron crocus bulbs, you can plant them in your yard. As they are fall-blooming crocus, you will plant them in the fall, but they will probably not bloom the year you plant them. Instead, you’ll see foliage in the spring, which will die back, and saffron flowers the following fall. Saffron crocus bulbs do not store well. Plant them as soon as possible after receiving them.
How to Grow Saffron Plants
Saffron plants need well draining soil and lots of sun. If saffron crocus is planted in swampy or poor draining soil, it will rot. Other than needing good soil and sun, saffron crocus are not picky. When you plant your saffron crocus bulbs, place them in the ground at about 3 to 5 inches deep and at least 6 inches apart. About 50 to 60 saffron flowers will produce about 1 tablespoon of saffron spice, so keep this in mind when figuring how many to plant. But, also keep in mind that saffron crocus multiply rapidly, so in a few years time you will have more than enough.
After your saffron crocus bulbs are planted, they need very little care. They will be hardy down to -15 F (-26 C). You can fertilize them once a year, though they grow fine without being fertilized as well. You can also water them if the rainfall in your area falls below 1.5 inches per week. Growing saffron crocus is easy and certainly makes the expensive spice much more affordable. Now that you know how to grow saffron plants, you can give this spice a try in your herb garden.
Before Growing Saffron Crocus
Saffron comes from the saffron crocus bulb (Crocus sativus), which is an autumn blooming crocus. The spice is actually the red stigmas of this crocus flower. Each flower will only produce three stigmas and each saffron crocus bulb will only produce one flower.
When growing saffron, first find a place to purchase the saffron crocus bulbs. Most people turn to a reputable online nursery to purchase them, though you may find them for sale at a small local nursery. It’s highly unlikely that you’ll find them at a chain store or big box store. Once you have purchased the saffron crocus bulbs, you can plant them in your yard. As they are fall-blooming crocus, you will plant them in the fall, but they will probably not bloom the year you plant them. Instead, you’ll see foliage in the spring, which will die back, and saffron flowers the following fall. Saffron crocus bulbs do not store well. Plant them as soon as possible after receiving them.
How to Grow Saffron Plants
Saffron plants need well draining soil and lots of sun. If saffron crocus is planted in swampy or poor draining soil, it will rot. Other than needing good soil and sun, saffron crocus are not picky. When you plant your saffron crocus bulbs, place them in the ground at about 3 to 5 inches deep and at least 6 inches apart. About 50 to 60 saffron flowers will produce about 1 tablespoon of saffron spice, so keep this in mind when figuring how many to plant. But, also keep in mind that saffron crocus multiply rapidly, so in a few years time you will have more than enough.
After your saffron crocus bulbs are planted, they need very little care. They will be hardy down to -15 F (-26 C). You can fertilize them once a year, though they grow fine without being fertilized as well. You can also water them if the rainfall in your area falls below 1.5 inches per week. Growing saffron crocus is easy and certainly makes the expensive spice much more affordable. Now that you know how to grow saffron plants, you can give this spice a try in your herb garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
A lot of people enjoy having small kitchen window sill plants like rosemary. However, although they are easy to grow, they aren’t without faults. Often, you’ll find there are problems with growing rosemary, one of them being a common fungus.
Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Perhaps you’ve noticed a white powder on your rosemary plants in your kitchen. If so, you aren’t alone. The white powder is actually powdery mildew on rosemary, a common plant ailment. It is caused by many different fungi that are closely related. This is one of the most common problems with growing rosemary plants, and all indoor plants actually. Each indoor plant has a white powdery mildew that is specific to that particular plant. Rosemary is no different. Powdery mildew won’t kill the rosemary plant, but it will weaken it. This is one of the easiest plant diseases to diagnose. Powdery mildew appears as a white powder on rosemary, which coats the leaves of the plant. The powder is actually thousands of little spores and can spread to other plants if severe enough.
How to Get Rid of Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Powdery mildew can be partially removed if you rub the leaves of your rosemary plant carefully. If you don’t try to remove some of it, the white powder on rosemary can result in leaf drop. The powdery mildew on rosemary can rob the plants of the nutrients they need to grow. Powdery mildew on rosemary can definitely make the plant look a little ragged, but it shouldn’t kill it. Pick up any infected leaves that have fallen off the plant. Also, take infected plants out of high humidity rooms, like the bathroom or kitchen. Finally, spraying the white powder on rosemary with a fungicide such as neem oil will help to kill the fungus. You might want to try spraying water on it first every few days to knock the mildew off before resorting to fungicide. You may need to repeat this every few days for it to be effective, but be careful not to overwater the plant itself or you will end up with root rot, another of the common problems for rosemary plants or other indoor houseplants.
Preventing Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
One of the best ways to treat white powder on rosemary is to prevent it in the first place. Even if you still have an outbreak, with a few precautions beforehand, the powdery mildew will not have as good a stronghold, making it’s treatment even easier.
When it comes to the prevention of powdery mildew, the use of bicarbonates seems promising, at least for many people. Since powdery mildew fungus thrives in moist, humid conditions, ensure that your plant has plenty of light and well-draining soil. Only water the plant as needed to avoid overly saturated soil and keep the water off the foliage. Keep your rosemary plants well ventilated too, meaning do not overcrowd them with other plants. This only creates a moist environment for the fungus to thrive in. Oftentimes, powdery mildew attacks new growth, so avoiding excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers should help limit this growth. Purchasing plants that are resistant to the disease, whenever available, is a good idea too. Now that you know what the white powder on rosemary is, and how to treat or prevent it, you can go back to enjoying your rosemary plant.
Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Perhaps you’ve noticed a white powder on your rosemary plants in your kitchen. If so, you aren’t alone. The white powder is actually powdery mildew on rosemary, a common plant ailment. It is caused by many different fungi that are closely related. This is one of the most common problems with growing rosemary plants, and all indoor plants actually. Each indoor plant has a white powdery mildew that is specific to that particular plant. Rosemary is no different. Powdery mildew won’t kill the rosemary plant, but it will weaken it. This is one of the easiest plant diseases to diagnose. Powdery mildew appears as a white powder on rosemary, which coats the leaves of the plant. The powder is actually thousands of little spores and can spread to other plants if severe enough.
How to Get Rid of Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
Powdery mildew can be partially removed if you rub the leaves of your rosemary plant carefully. If you don’t try to remove some of it, the white powder on rosemary can result in leaf drop. The powdery mildew on rosemary can rob the plants of the nutrients they need to grow. Powdery mildew on rosemary can definitely make the plant look a little ragged, but it shouldn’t kill it. Pick up any infected leaves that have fallen off the plant. Also, take infected plants out of high humidity rooms, like the bathroom or kitchen. Finally, spraying the white powder on rosemary with a fungicide such as neem oil will help to kill the fungus. You might want to try spraying water on it first every few days to knock the mildew off before resorting to fungicide. You may need to repeat this every few days for it to be effective, but be careful not to overwater the plant itself or you will end up with root rot, another of the common problems for rosemary plants or other indoor houseplants.
Preventing Powdery Mildew on Rosemary
One of the best ways to treat white powder on rosemary is to prevent it in the first place. Even if you still have an outbreak, with a few precautions beforehand, the powdery mildew will not have as good a stronghold, making it’s treatment even easier.
When it comes to the prevention of powdery mildew, the use of bicarbonates seems promising, at least for many people. Since powdery mildew fungus thrives in moist, humid conditions, ensure that your plant has plenty of light and well-draining soil. Only water the plant as needed to avoid overly saturated soil and keep the water off the foliage. Keep your rosemary plants well ventilated too, meaning do not overcrowd them with other plants. This only creates a moist environment for the fungus to thrive in. Oftentimes, powdery mildew attacks new growth, so avoiding excessive use of nitrogen fertilizers should help limit this growth. Purchasing plants that are resistant to the disease, whenever available, is a good idea too. Now that you know what the white powder on rosemary is, and how to treat or prevent it, you can go back to enjoying your rosemary plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Rosemary is a popular culinary herb in the home garden. It can be planted either in the ground or in containers, but depending on how you grow this herb, how you water your rosemary plant differs.
How to Water a Rosemary Plant in the Ground
Rosemary is a plant that is easy to grow in the ground, mostly because it rather drought tolerant. A newly planted rosemary plant needs to be watered frequently for the first week or two to help it become established, but after it has been established, it needs little in the way of watering other than rainfall. Rosemary is drought tolerant and can go quite some time without being watered when planted in the ground. In fact, often what will kill a rosemary plant growing in the ground is too much water, and rosemary is very sensitive to drainage. It doesn’t like to grow in soil that doesn’t drain well and can succumb to root rot if left in soil that stays too wet. Because of this, you should make sure to plant your rosemary in well draining soil and after it is established, then only water in times of severe drought.
Watering Rosemary Plants in Containers
While rosemary grown in the ground needs little water from the gardener, rosemary grown in containers is another matter. A rosemary plant in a container doesn’t have the chance to grow the extensive root system to seek out water like the plants in the ground. Because of this, they are far less drought tolerant and need to be watered frequently. But, like ground-planted rosemary, those grown in containers are also sensitive to drainage.
With container-grown rosemary, water the plant when the soil is just dry to the touch on the top. It’s important that you don’t let the soil dry out completely as rosemary plants lack signals like droopy leaves or wilted stems to let you know they are dangerously low on water. They can actually die before you realize there was ever a problem. Therefore, always keep the soil of your potted rosemary at least a little moist. On the flip side, make sure the pot has excellent drainage. If the soil becomes too wet, the plant can easily develop root rot and die.
How to Water a Rosemary Plant in the Ground
Rosemary is a plant that is easy to grow in the ground, mostly because it rather drought tolerant. A newly planted rosemary plant needs to be watered frequently for the first week or two to help it become established, but after it has been established, it needs little in the way of watering other than rainfall. Rosemary is drought tolerant and can go quite some time without being watered when planted in the ground. In fact, often what will kill a rosemary plant growing in the ground is too much water, and rosemary is very sensitive to drainage. It doesn’t like to grow in soil that doesn’t drain well and can succumb to root rot if left in soil that stays too wet. Because of this, you should make sure to plant your rosemary in well draining soil and after it is established, then only water in times of severe drought.
Watering Rosemary Plants in Containers
While rosemary grown in the ground needs little water from the gardener, rosemary grown in containers is another matter. A rosemary plant in a container doesn’t have the chance to grow the extensive root system to seek out water like the plants in the ground. Because of this, they are far less drought tolerant and need to be watered frequently. But, like ground-planted rosemary, those grown in containers are also sensitive to drainage.
With container-grown rosemary, water the plant when the soil is just dry to the touch on the top. It’s important that you don’t let the soil dry out completely as rosemary plants lack signals like droopy leaves or wilted stems to let you know they are dangerously low on water. They can actually die before you realize there was ever a problem. Therefore, always keep the soil of your potted rosemary at least a little moist. On the flip side, make sure the pot has excellent drainage. If the soil becomes too wet, the plant can easily develop root rot and die.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Given the right conditions, rosemary plants thrive, eventually reaching heights of 6 to 8 feet. They grow out as well as up, sending out stems that seem determined to explore their surroundings and invade the space of adjacent plants. If your rosemary plant has grown out of control, it’s time to take drastic action. Rejuvenation pruning of rosemary may be needed.
Can You Hard Prune Rosemary?
Gardeners are sometimes hesitant to make drastic cuts on rosemary shrubs because a few herbs with similar, woody stems don’t recover if you make severe cuts. A mature rosemary plant, however, tolerates this drastic pruning, even into the woody parts of the stem.
You can do light pruning and harvesting any time of year, but a rosemary plant responds best to hard pruning in winter when it isn’t actively growing. When pruned in winter, the plant grows back in spring looking better than ever. Read on to find out how to rejuvenate a rosemary shrub. Note: For most people who grow rosemary, the plant will go through a cold period. It isn’t a good idea to prune any herb, rosemary or otherwise, shortly before or during cold because it will cause the plant to grow new shoots, which are very vulnerable to cold damage. In warmer areas where rosemary is more apt to grow to the size in which rejuvenation pruning is needed, the plant is not experiencing the same killing cold, so winter pruning while it’s in dormancy is best. That being said, for those of us NOT living in such areas, stick to spring pruning after the threat of frost has passed.
Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants
The first step in rejuvenating rosemary plants is to determine the size at which you want to maintain the plant. Cut the shrub back to about half of the desired size, and by the end of spring it will fill the allotted space. You can maintain the size of the shrub through summer with light pruning and harvesting. Cutting through the thick, woody parts of the stem on a mature rosemary shrub may be too much for your hand pruners. If you find the stems hard to cut, use loppers with long handles. The length of the handles gives you more leverage and you’ll be able to make the cuts easily. When tender new shoots replace the old growth, you’ll be able to make cuts easily with hand pruners. Don’t toss the prunings on the compost pile! Save the best tips to start new plants, and strip the needles off the remaining stems for drying. The tough stems make excellent kabob skewers.
Can You Hard Prune Rosemary?
Gardeners are sometimes hesitant to make drastic cuts on rosemary shrubs because a few herbs with similar, woody stems don’t recover if you make severe cuts. A mature rosemary plant, however, tolerates this drastic pruning, even into the woody parts of the stem.
You can do light pruning and harvesting any time of year, but a rosemary plant responds best to hard pruning in winter when it isn’t actively growing. When pruned in winter, the plant grows back in spring looking better than ever. Read on to find out how to rejuvenate a rosemary shrub. Note: For most people who grow rosemary, the plant will go through a cold period. It isn’t a good idea to prune any herb, rosemary or otherwise, shortly before or during cold because it will cause the plant to grow new shoots, which are very vulnerable to cold damage. In warmer areas where rosemary is more apt to grow to the size in which rejuvenation pruning is needed, the plant is not experiencing the same killing cold, so winter pruning while it’s in dormancy is best. That being said, for those of us NOT living in such areas, stick to spring pruning after the threat of frost has passed.
Rejuvenating Rosemary Plants
The first step in rejuvenating rosemary plants is to determine the size at which you want to maintain the plant. Cut the shrub back to about half of the desired size, and by the end of spring it will fill the allotted space. You can maintain the size of the shrub through summer with light pruning and harvesting. Cutting through the thick, woody parts of the stem on a mature rosemary shrub may be too much for your hand pruners. If you find the stems hard to cut, use loppers with long handles. The length of the handles gives you more leverage and you’ll be able to make the cuts easily. When tender new shoots replace the old growth, you’ll be able to make cuts easily with hand pruners. Don’t toss the prunings on the compost pile! Save the best tips to start new plants, and strip the needles off the remaining stems for drying. The tough stems make excellent kabob skewers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Rosemary is a magnificent fragrant herb that is native to the Mediterranean. During the Middle Ages, rosemary was used as a love charm. While most of us enjoy the aroma of fresh rosemary, today most people grow it for its culinary uses and ornamental qualities. There are several easy to care for varieties in this family of Lamiaceae, one of which is the creeping or prostrate rosemary plant (Rosmarinus officinalis “Prostratus”). So, what is creeping rosemary, and is prostrate rosemary suitable for your landscape?
Creeping Rosemary Information
Prostrate rosemary in the landscape is an easy to care for creeping perennial herb suitable for the herb garden, perennial beds, containers, and rockeries. A low growing herbaceous shrub, prostrate rosemary plants can be grown throughout USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 8 to 10. The plant only grows to a height of about 2 inches to 1 foot tall (5-30 cm.) and will spread 4 to 8 feet (1.2-2.4 m.) if left unchecked.
The best time to plant prostrate rosemary is in the fall. Plant your creeping rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’) in full sun to part shade in well draining soil, although it will do well in almost any type of soil so long as it is not allowed to become sodden. You will be rewarded with an aromatic evergreen with gray green leaves reminiscent of pine needles and attractive light purple flowers.
Growing Prostrate Rosemary Plants
Prostrate rosemary plants can be purchased at the local nursery and may also be found under the names Blue Agave, American Aloe or Maguey. Conversely, you can propagate rosemary by clipping 2 inches (5 cm.) of soft, new growth. Remove the lower inch of leaves, dip in rooting hormone and then place the start in damp, sterile seed mix. Place the new plant in indirect sunlight in a warm area and mist daily. Roots should begin to form after about two to three weeks, at which time you can transplant into pots to continue to grow. After three months, the rosemary is big enough to transplant outdoors in a full sun exposure, four to six hours per day. Trim any extra long or damaged branches on the rosemary. Dig a hole a couple inches deeper than the root ball of the herb. Mix 2 to 4 inches of shredded bark or gravel into the soil to provide better drainage. Plant the rosemary and back fill the hole. Water the plant in, taking care not to drown it. Additional plant should be space 24 to 36 inches (60-90 cm.) apart in the garden.
Care of Trailing Rosemary
The care of trailing rosemary is quite simple. Water, but don’t drown the plant. Remember, rosemary is used to dry conditions. Fertilize rosemary with 1 ½ tablespoons of slow release 10-10-10 fertilizer around the base of the plant and work in lightly with a hand cultivator. Follow up with some water to activate the fertilizer. Not only is prostrate rosemary a no-fuss herb, it is also drought tolerant and primarily pest resistant. That said, keep weeds away from around the base of the rosemary. Spittle bugs, the one pest rosemary doesn’t seem to be resistant to, may use the weeds as living quarters while they snack on your rosemary. A spray from the hose may be enough to wash them off. A half inch layer of white sand around the rosemary’s base will also reduce weed growth and decrease the possibility of root rot. Your new rosemary herb can be used either fresh or dry with foods such as roasted potatoes, lamb, pork, fish and poultry dishes and veggies. You can also throw some on the grill when barbecuing to impart a lovely flavor or even use mature woody stems as skewers over the grill.
Creeping Rosemary Information
Prostrate rosemary in the landscape is an easy to care for creeping perennial herb suitable for the herb garden, perennial beds, containers, and rockeries. A low growing herbaceous shrub, prostrate rosemary plants can be grown throughout USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 8 to 10. The plant only grows to a height of about 2 inches to 1 foot tall (5-30 cm.) and will spread 4 to 8 feet (1.2-2.4 m.) if left unchecked.
The best time to plant prostrate rosemary is in the fall. Plant your creeping rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’) in full sun to part shade in well draining soil, although it will do well in almost any type of soil so long as it is not allowed to become sodden. You will be rewarded with an aromatic evergreen with gray green leaves reminiscent of pine needles and attractive light purple flowers.
Growing Prostrate Rosemary Plants
Prostrate rosemary plants can be purchased at the local nursery and may also be found under the names Blue Agave, American Aloe or Maguey. Conversely, you can propagate rosemary by clipping 2 inches (5 cm.) of soft, new growth. Remove the lower inch of leaves, dip in rooting hormone and then place the start in damp, sterile seed mix. Place the new plant in indirect sunlight in a warm area and mist daily. Roots should begin to form after about two to three weeks, at which time you can transplant into pots to continue to grow. After three months, the rosemary is big enough to transplant outdoors in a full sun exposure, four to six hours per day. Trim any extra long or damaged branches on the rosemary. Dig a hole a couple inches deeper than the root ball of the herb. Mix 2 to 4 inches of shredded bark or gravel into the soil to provide better drainage. Plant the rosemary and back fill the hole. Water the plant in, taking care not to drown it. Additional plant should be space 24 to 36 inches (60-90 cm.) apart in the garden.
Care of Trailing Rosemary
The care of trailing rosemary is quite simple. Water, but don’t drown the plant. Remember, rosemary is used to dry conditions. Fertilize rosemary with 1 ½ tablespoons of slow release 10-10-10 fertilizer around the base of the plant and work in lightly with a hand cultivator. Follow up with some water to activate the fertilizer. Not only is prostrate rosemary a no-fuss herb, it is also drought tolerant and primarily pest resistant. That said, keep weeds away from around the base of the rosemary. Spittle bugs, the one pest rosemary doesn’t seem to be resistant to, may use the weeds as living quarters while they snack on your rosemary. A spray from the hose may be enough to wash them off. A half inch layer of white sand around the rosemary’s base will also reduce weed growth and decrease the possibility of root rot. Your new rosemary herb can be used either fresh or dry with foods such as roasted potatoes, lamb, pork, fish and poultry dishes and veggies. You can also throw some on the grill when barbecuing to impart a lovely flavor or even use mature woody stems as skewers over the grill.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Most rosemary plants have blue to purple flowers, but not pink flowering rosemary. This beauty is as easy to grow as its blue and purple cousins, has the same fragrant qualities but with different hued blossoms. Thinking about growing rosemary with pink flowers? Read on for information about growing pink rosemary plants.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
Pink Flowering Rosemary Plants
Rosemary(Rosemarinus officinalis) is an aromatic, perennial evergreen shrub that is steeped in history. The ancient Romans and Greeks used rosemary and associated it with love of their deities Eros and Aphrodite. You are likely to love it as well for its delicious flavor, scent and ease of growing.
Rosemary is in the mint family, Labiatae, and is native to the Mediterranean hills, Portugal, and northwestern Spain. While rosemary is primarily used in culinary dishes, in ancient times, the herb was associated with remembrance, memory and fidelity. Roman students wore sprigs of rosemary woven into their hair to improve memory. It was once also woven into a bridal wreath to remind the new couples of their wedding vows. It was even said that just a light touch of rosemary could render one hopelessly in love. Pink flowering rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis var. roseus) has a semi-weeping habit with typically small, needle-like, resinous leaves. With no pruning, pink flowering rosemary sprawls attractively or it can be tidily pruned. The pale pink blossoms bloom from spring into summer. It may be found under names such as ‘Majorca Pink,’ ‘Majorca,’ ‘Roseus,’ or ‘Roseus-Cozart.’
Growing Pink Rosemary
Pink flowering rosemary, like all rosemary plants, thrives in full sun and is drought tolerant and hardy down to 15 degrees F. (-9 C.). The shrub will grow to about three feet in height depending upon pruning and is hardy to USDA zones 8-11. This fragrant ornamental has few pest issues, although the usual culprits (aphids, mealybugs, scalesand spider mites) might be attracted to it. Root rot and botrytisare the most common diseases that afflict rosemary, but other than that the plant is susceptible to few diseases. The number one problem resulting in plant decline or even death is overwatering. Once the plant is established, it requires very little care. Water only when the weather has been extremely dry.
Prune the plant as desired. To harvest for use in food, only take 20% of the growth at any one time and don’t cut into the woody parts of the plant unless you are pruning and shaping it. Cut sprigs in the morning before the plant has flowered for the best flavor. The sprigs can then be dried or the leaves stripped from the woody stem and used fresh.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
I love fresh ground pepper, especially the mélange of white, red, and black corns which have a slightly different nuance than just plain black peppercorns. This mix can be pricey, so the thought is, can you grow black pepper plants? Let’s find out.
Black Pepper Information
Yes, growing black pepper is possible and here’s a little more black pepper information which will make it even more worthy beyond saving a couple of dollars.
Peppercorns have good reason for costing dearly; they have been traded between East and West for centuries, were known to the ancient Greeks and Romans and served as currency in some European countries. This prized spice stimulates salivation and the production of gastric juices and is a revered food flavoring throughout the world. Piper nigrum, or peppercorn plant, is a tropical plant cultivated for its black, white and red peppercorns. The three colors of peppercorn are simply different stages of the same peppercorn. Black peppercorns are the dried immature fruit or drupes of the peppercorn plant while white pepper is made from the inner portion of the mature fruit.
How to Grow Peppercorns
Growing black pepper plants are actually vines most often propagated through vegetative cuttings and interspersed among shade crop trees, such as coffee. Conditions for growing black pepper plants require high temps, heavy and frequent rainfall, and well draining soil, met in the countries of India, Indonesia and Brazil — the greatest commercial exporters of peppercorns. So, the question is how to grow peppercorns for the home environ. These warm loving plants will stop growing when temps drop below 65 F. (18 C.) and do not tolerate frost; as such they make great container plants. Situate in full sun with 50 percent or greater humidity, or inside the house or greenhouse if your region does not fit this criteria.
Feed the plant moderately with a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the amount of ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water every one to two weeks, excluding winter months when feeding should cease. Water thoroughly and consistently. Do not allow to dry out too much or overwater since peppercorn plants are susceptible to root rot. To stimulate peppercorn production, keep the plant under bright light and warm — above 65 F. (18 C.). Be patient. Peppercorns are slow growing and it will take a couple of years before they produce flowers that lead to peppercorns.
Black Pepper Information
Yes, growing black pepper is possible and here’s a little more black pepper information which will make it even more worthy beyond saving a couple of dollars.
Peppercorns have good reason for costing dearly; they have been traded between East and West for centuries, were known to the ancient Greeks and Romans and served as currency in some European countries. This prized spice stimulates salivation and the production of gastric juices and is a revered food flavoring throughout the world. Piper nigrum, or peppercorn plant, is a tropical plant cultivated for its black, white and red peppercorns. The three colors of peppercorn are simply different stages of the same peppercorn. Black peppercorns are the dried immature fruit or drupes of the peppercorn plant while white pepper is made from the inner portion of the mature fruit.
How to Grow Peppercorns
Growing black pepper plants are actually vines most often propagated through vegetative cuttings and interspersed among shade crop trees, such as coffee. Conditions for growing black pepper plants require high temps, heavy and frequent rainfall, and well draining soil, met in the countries of India, Indonesia and Brazil — the greatest commercial exporters of peppercorns. So, the question is how to grow peppercorns for the home environ. These warm loving plants will stop growing when temps drop below 65 F. (18 C.) and do not tolerate frost; as such they make great container plants. Situate in full sun with 50 percent or greater humidity, or inside the house or greenhouse if your region does not fit this criteria.
Feed the plant moderately with a 10-10-10 fertilizer in the amount of ¼ teaspoon per gallon of water every one to two weeks, excluding winter months when feeding should cease. Water thoroughly and consistently. Do not allow to dry out too much or overwater since peppercorn plants are susceptible to root rot. To stimulate peppercorn production, keep the plant under bright light and warm — above 65 F. (18 C.). Be patient. Peppercorns are slow growing and it will take a couple of years before they produce flowers that lead to peppercorns.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Dried herbs store beautifully and allow the home cook access to many flavors and aromas. Oregano is a Mediterranean herb with a pungent scent and flavor punch. It is an easy to grow herb, which is used fresh or dried. Dry oregano carries an intensified version of its fresh palate pleasing powers. Harvesting oregano and drying it provides easy access and long-term storage of the herb. Learn how to pick and dry oregano to round out your seasoning cabinet or share with friends.
How to Harvest Oregano
Oregano is a hardy perennial herb that may die back in extremely cold winters. Preserving the tasty leaves is simple. Wait until morning after the dew has dried when harvesting oregano. The essential oils in herbs are highest in concentration in warm mornings. The best flavor is achieved when the herb is harvested just as flower buds form. Use scissors or garden shears to remove stems from the plant. Cut back to just above a growth node or set of leaves. This will allow the plant to branch from the cut area and produce more flavorful leaves. Rinse the stems lightly if there is dust or mulch on them. Shake off the excess moisture before drying oregano.
Tips on Drying Oregano
There are several methods used to harvest oregano and dry it for preservation. You may pull off the tiny leaves and dry them separately or dry the entire stem and then crumble off the crisp leaves. Bundle the stems together and hang them to dry oregano in a dark, dry spot. Place a perforated paper bag around the herbs to catch the bits of leaves as they fall and to keep dirt and dust off. You may also dry the stems on food dehydrator trays in single layer or for a low-tech solution, place them on trays for several days in a warm room. Turn the stems several times during the drying process to expose the leaves evenly to air and heat. Once the leaves are dry and the stems are stiff, you can remove the leaves for storage. The best way to do this is to pinch the stem at the bottom and pull up. The leaves will fall off easily. The stems are woody and slightly bitter but you can add them to a fire for amazing herbaceous scent. You can also use the dried stems in a smoker to add flavor to meat as it cooks. Go through the leaves for bits of chaff and stem before placing them in a container.
Storing Dry Oregano
After drying oregano and harvesting the leaves, you need to store them in a dark, dry location to preserve the most flavor. Use glass bottles or airtight plastic containers. Light and air will degrade the flavor of the herb. Dry oregano will last for up to six months with best flavor and quality.
How to Harvest Oregano
Oregano is a hardy perennial herb that may die back in extremely cold winters. Preserving the tasty leaves is simple. Wait until morning after the dew has dried when harvesting oregano. The essential oils in herbs are highest in concentration in warm mornings. The best flavor is achieved when the herb is harvested just as flower buds form. Use scissors or garden shears to remove stems from the plant. Cut back to just above a growth node or set of leaves. This will allow the plant to branch from the cut area and produce more flavorful leaves. Rinse the stems lightly if there is dust or mulch on them. Shake off the excess moisture before drying oregano.
Tips on Drying Oregano
There are several methods used to harvest oregano and dry it for preservation. You may pull off the tiny leaves and dry them separately or dry the entire stem and then crumble off the crisp leaves. Bundle the stems together and hang them to dry oregano in a dark, dry spot. Place a perforated paper bag around the herbs to catch the bits of leaves as they fall and to keep dirt and dust off. You may also dry the stems on food dehydrator trays in single layer or for a low-tech solution, place them on trays for several days in a warm room. Turn the stems several times during the drying process to expose the leaves evenly to air and heat. Once the leaves are dry and the stems are stiff, you can remove the leaves for storage. The best way to do this is to pinch the stem at the bottom and pull up. The leaves will fall off easily. The stems are woody and slightly bitter but you can add them to a fire for amazing herbaceous scent. You can also use the dried stems in a smoker to add flavor to meat as it cooks. Go through the leaves for bits of chaff and stem before placing them in a container.
Storing Dry Oregano
After drying oregano and harvesting the leaves, you need to store them in a dark, dry location to preserve the most flavor. Use glass bottles or airtight plastic containers. Light and air will degrade the flavor of the herb. Dry oregano will last for up to six months with best flavor and quality.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
With dozens of uses in the kitchen, oregano is an essential plant for culinary herb gardens. This Mediterranean herb is easy to grow in the right location. Plant it in full sun in an area with good air circulation and well-drained soil to keep oregano problems to a minimum.
Oregano Disease Problems
Diseases affecting oregano plants are primarily caused by fungi. Fungi thrive in moist conditions where the air doesn’t circulate well enough to keep the foliage dry. Pruning plants will open them up for better air circulation, and spacing them according to the plant tag solves some oregano problems. If your soil doesn’t drain well, grow oregano in a raised bed or in containers.
The fungi that cause oregano disease problems often result in rotting leaves or roots. If older leaves in the center of the plant begin to rot, the plant is probably infected with botrytis rot. There is no cure for this; therefore, you should remove and destroy the plant to prevent spreading of the disease. Gradual wilting may be a sign of rhizoctonia root rot. Examine the base of the stems and the roots for brownish or black discoloration. If you see these symptoms, destroy the plant and don’t grow oregano in the same location for at least three years. Rust is another fungal disease that sometimes causes oregano problems. Rust causes circular spots on the foliage, and if caught early enough, you may be able to save the plant by pruning off the affected parts. Destroy diseased plants by burning them or bagging and discarding them. Never compost plants with fungal diseases.
Oregano Pests
While oregano pests are few, they should still be mentioned as inclusion for common oregano problems. Aphids and spider mites sometimes infest oregano plants. You can control mild infestations with a strong spray of water from a hose every other day until the insects are gone. Once knocked off the plant, these insects are unable to return. For stubborn infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. These insecticides must come into direct contact to kill the insect, so spray the plant thoroughly, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves.
Leaf miners are the larvae of black flies. These tiny, wormlike larvae feed inside oregano leaves, leaving meandering tan or brown trails. Insecticides can’t reach leaf miner larvae inside the leaves, so the only treatment is to pick off and destroy affected leaves before the larvae mature. Don’t let the few diseases affecting oregano plants or oregano pests put you off in growing this herb. With proper care, these oregano problems can be prevented and you’ll be rewarded with a flavorful harvest.
Oregano Disease Problems
Diseases affecting oregano plants are primarily caused by fungi. Fungi thrive in moist conditions where the air doesn’t circulate well enough to keep the foliage dry. Pruning plants will open them up for better air circulation, and spacing them according to the plant tag solves some oregano problems. If your soil doesn’t drain well, grow oregano in a raised bed or in containers.
The fungi that cause oregano disease problems often result in rotting leaves or roots. If older leaves in the center of the plant begin to rot, the plant is probably infected with botrytis rot. There is no cure for this; therefore, you should remove and destroy the plant to prevent spreading of the disease. Gradual wilting may be a sign of rhizoctonia root rot. Examine the base of the stems and the roots for brownish or black discoloration. If you see these symptoms, destroy the plant and don’t grow oregano in the same location for at least three years. Rust is another fungal disease that sometimes causes oregano problems. Rust causes circular spots on the foliage, and if caught early enough, you may be able to save the plant by pruning off the affected parts. Destroy diseased plants by burning them or bagging and discarding them. Never compost plants with fungal diseases.
Oregano Pests
While oregano pests are few, they should still be mentioned as inclusion for common oregano problems. Aphids and spider mites sometimes infest oregano plants. You can control mild infestations with a strong spray of water from a hose every other day until the insects are gone. Once knocked off the plant, these insects are unable to return. For stubborn infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil spray. These insecticides must come into direct contact to kill the insect, so spray the plant thoroughly, paying particular attention to the undersides of leaves.
Leaf miners are the larvae of black flies. These tiny, wormlike larvae feed inside oregano leaves, leaving meandering tan or brown trails. Insecticides can’t reach leaf miner larvae inside the leaves, so the only treatment is to pick off and destroy affected leaves before the larvae mature. Don’t let the few diseases affecting oregano plants or oregano pests put you off in growing this herb. With proper care, these oregano problems can be prevented and you’ll be rewarded with a flavorful harvest.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Herbs are one of the easiest plants to grow and provide pollinators a place to dine while livening up our dinners. Ornamental oregano plants bring all these attributes to the table as well as unique beauty and fun trailing form. The flavor isn’t as strong as the culinary variety but it has an unmatched appearance in its colorful bracts that develop in a host of pastel hues. What is ornamental oregano? It is a peacock of the herb family with many decorative uses.
What is Ornamental Oregano?
Many plants that are considered herbs have long lasting greenery and bright jaunty flowers that are like a magnet to bees, moths and other insects. Growing ornamental oregano provides a subtle oregano taste to food but is more often used for its unique appearance. Many of the forms are perfect for hanging baskets or as trailing accents in a rockery. They need little specialized care and are as hardy as their more common cousins.
Ornamental oregano is in the genus Origanum just like its less engaging oregano cousin that is more familiar to our spice cupboards. They are a group of disease and deer resistant plants that thrive in a variety of soils and situations. The attribute most praised about this herb is its flowery bracts, which dangle appealingly from the stems in colors of soft pink, lavender, green and burgundy. Ornamental oregano plants may be upright or trailing and some have characteristic flowers but the varieties with whorled colored bracts and silvery blue foliage are most eye catching. Ornamental oregano care is similar to care for any Mediterranean herb.
Growing Ornamental Oregano in the Garden
There are many varieties from which to choose if you want to try your hand at one of the ornamental oreganos. Dittany of Crete and Kent Beauty boast tiny flowers but big colorful bracts. The bracts overlap and look similar to crepe paper pinecone scales. Pilgrim is an upright form with rosy pink flowers while Amethyst Falls is another cascading plant with hot pink blooms and purple bracts. There are even some lime green forms and some with multicolored bracts. Kent Beauty was the first available in the trade but several hybrids are now common in nursery centers. Once you get your hands on one, you’ll be hooked by their unique splendor and want to try many of the other forms.
How to Grow Ornamental Oregano
Most of the varieties are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 or 5, except Dittany of Crete, which is only hardy to zone 7. Choose a site with full sun for best flower and bract formation, although the plants will do fairly well in partial sun. Soil should be well worked and have good drainage. Initial ornamental oregano care should feature regular watering with moderately moist soil but after the plant is established, it prefers a slightly dry environment. Ornamental oregano is a perennial and will create a larger colony over time. In cooler regions, grow your oregano in a container and move it indoors when freezes are expected. Container plants benefit from some liquid fertilizer in spring but outdoor plants are generally fine with just a top dressing of compost.
What is Ornamental Oregano?
Many plants that are considered herbs have long lasting greenery and bright jaunty flowers that are like a magnet to bees, moths and other insects. Growing ornamental oregano provides a subtle oregano taste to food but is more often used for its unique appearance. Many of the forms are perfect for hanging baskets or as trailing accents in a rockery. They need little specialized care and are as hardy as their more common cousins.
Ornamental oregano is in the genus Origanum just like its less engaging oregano cousin that is more familiar to our spice cupboards. They are a group of disease and deer resistant plants that thrive in a variety of soils and situations. The attribute most praised about this herb is its flowery bracts, which dangle appealingly from the stems in colors of soft pink, lavender, green and burgundy. Ornamental oregano plants may be upright or trailing and some have characteristic flowers but the varieties with whorled colored bracts and silvery blue foliage are most eye catching. Ornamental oregano care is similar to care for any Mediterranean herb.
Growing Ornamental Oregano in the Garden
There are many varieties from which to choose if you want to try your hand at one of the ornamental oreganos. Dittany of Crete and Kent Beauty boast tiny flowers but big colorful bracts. The bracts overlap and look similar to crepe paper pinecone scales. Pilgrim is an upright form with rosy pink flowers while Amethyst Falls is another cascading plant with hot pink blooms and purple bracts. There are even some lime green forms and some with multicolored bracts. Kent Beauty was the first available in the trade but several hybrids are now common in nursery centers. Once you get your hands on one, you’ll be hooked by their unique splendor and want to try many of the other forms.
How to Grow Ornamental Oregano
Most of the varieties are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 4 or 5, except Dittany of Crete, which is only hardy to zone 7. Choose a site with full sun for best flower and bract formation, although the plants will do fairly well in partial sun. Soil should be well worked and have good drainage. Initial ornamental oregano care should feature regular watering with moderately moist soil but after the plant is established, it prefers a slightly dry environment. Ornamental oregano is a perennial and will create a larger colony over time. In cooler regions, grow your oregano in a container and move it indoors when freezes are expected. Container plants benefit from some liquid fertilizer in spring but outdoor plants are generally fine with just a top dressing of compost.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Herbs are some of the most rewarding plants you can grow. They’re often easy to care for, they can be kept in a container, they smell amazing, and they’re always on hand for cooking. One especially popular herb is oregano. Golden oregano is a common and worthwhile variety. Keep reading to learn more about growing golden oregano herbs and caring for golden oregano plants.
Golden Oregano Information
Golden oregano plants (Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’) get their name from their yellow to golden foliage that is the brightest and truest yellow in full sun and cooler weather. In the summer, the yellow leaves are covered in delicate pink and purple flowers. Is golden oregano edible? It sure is! Golden oregano is very fragrant and has the classic oregano smell and taste that is in such demand in cooking.
Growing Golden Oregano Plants
Growing golden oregano herbs is especially good for container and small space gardening, since the plants tend to spread out less vigorously than other varieties of oregano. Caring for golden oregano is very easy. The plants need full sun, but they will grow in virtually any type of soil. They prefer moderate watering and can withstand drying. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9 and will stay evergreen in the warmer zones. While less prone to spread than other oregano varieties, they are still vigorous plants that can grow to 3 feet in height and spread to 12 feet in width.
Golden oregano plants can be trimmed at any time for cooking, but it’s useful to cut them back drastically in early summer to keep them low to the ground and contained. Dry and store your early summer clippings to have homegrown oregano on hand all year long.
Golden Oregano Information
Golden oregano plants (Origanum vulgare ‘Aureum’) get their name from their yellow to golden foliage that is the brightest and truest yellow in full sun and cooler weather. In the summer, the yellow leaves are covered in delicate pink and purple flowers. Is golden oregano edible? It sure is! Golden oregano is very fragrant and has the classic oregano smell and taste that is in such demand in cooking.
Growing Golden Oregano Plants
Growing golden oregano herbs is especially good for container and small space gardening, since the plants tend to spread out less vigorously than other varieties of oregano. Caring for golden oregano is very easy. The plants need full sun, but they will grow in virtually any type of soil. They prefer moderate watering and can withstand drying. They are hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9 and will stay evergreen in the warmer zones. While less prone to spread than other oregano varieties, they are still vigorous plants that can grow to 3 feet in height and spread to 12 feet in width.
Golden oregano plants can be trimmed at any time for cooking, but it’s useful to cut them back drastically in early summer to keep them low to the ground and contained. Dry and store your early summer clippings to have homegrown oregano on hand all year long.
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