文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The organ pipe cactus (Stenocereus thurberi) is so named because of its multi-limbed grow habit which does resemble the pipes of the grand organs found in churches. You can only grow organ pipe cactus in warm to hot climates where there is room for a 26-foot tall plant. However, the cactus is slow growing, so planting organ pipe cactus in a container for a few years is a fun way to grow this interesting plant.
Planting Organ Pipe Cactus
Organ pipe cactus grows well in well-drained, gritty soils. Planting the cactus in an unglazed clay pot will allow excess moisture to evaporate. Use either a cactus mix or make your own with one part potting soil, one part sand and one part perlite. Immerse the cactus in the soil up to the bottom of the stems and press the soil around it to firm. Put a mulch of tiny rocks on top of the soil to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. Place the cactus indoors where temperatures are 70 -80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) in full sun.
Grow Organ Pipe Cactus
Organ pipe cactus is a wild growing plant found in hot, sunny southern Arizona. The cactus’ habitat is rocky, sandy and generally inhospitable and unfertile. Organ pipe cactus stems are generally about 16 feet long, and the entire plant can attain 12 feet in width. The stems are ribbed with 12- to 19-inch thick ridges. The entire plant is covered in black spines that become lighter as they get older. The organ pipe cactus lives a long time and doesn’t reach maturity until it is 150 years old. Organ pipe cactus care is highlighted by watering. The most common cause of potted cactus failure is over irrigating the plant. The cactus is used to low fertility, but as a potted plant has limited access to resources. Give it a good cactus food in the irrigation water in early spring. Do not water in the winter from November to February. Watch for pests, such as scale sucking insects, and use an insecticidal soap to combat them. You can put your potted cactus outdoors year round in USDA zones 9 to 11.
Organ Pipe Cactus Flowers
As they mature and grow, organ pipe cactus produce large flowers. The blooms are pure, snowy white with pink or purple edging and 3 inches across. The flowers are held well out from the cactus to help bats and insect pollinators access the bloom. The flower is primarily pollinated at night by bats or perhaps moths. The flower opens at night and closes in the day. April, May and June are the best times to see organ pipe cactus flowers. The flowers yield to large juicy fruits with bright red flesh. Homegrown organ pipe cactus are unlikely to produce flowers unless they have been in the landscape for over a century, but you can travel to the Organ Pipe National Park in Arizona to view the spectacular flowers.
Planting Organ Pipe Cactus
Organ pipe cactus grows well in well-drained, gritty soils. Planting the cactus in an unglazed clay pot will allow excess moisture to evaporate. Use either a cactus mix or make your own with one part potting soil, one part sand and one part perlite. Immerse the cactus in the soil up to the bottom of the stems and press the soil around it to firm. Put a mulch of tiny rocks on top of the soil to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. Place the cactus indoors where temperatures are 70 -80 degrees F. (21-27 C.) in full sun.
Grow Organ Pipe Cactus
Organ pipe cactus is a wild growing plant found in hot, sunny southern Arizona. The cactus’ habitat is rocky, sandy and generally inhospitable and unfertile. Organ pipe cactus stems are generally about 16 feet long, and the entire plant can attain 12 feet in width. The stems are ribbed with 12- to 19-inch thick ridges. The entire plant is covered in black spines that become lighter as they get older. The organ pipe cactus lives a long time and doesn’t reach maturity until it is 150 years old. Organ pipe cactus care is highlighted by watering. The most common cause of potted cactus failure is over irrigating the plant. The cactus is used to low fertility, but as a potted plant has limited access to resources. Give it a good cactus food in the irrigation water in early spring. Do not water in the winter from November to February. Watch for pests, such as scale sucking insects, and use an insecticidal soap to combat them. You can put your potted cactus outdoors year round in USDA zones 9 to 11.
Organ Pipe Cactus Flowers
As they mature and grow, organ pipe cactus produce large flowers. The blooms are pure, snowy white with pink or purple edging and 3 inches across. The flowers are held well out from the cactus to help bats and insect pollinators access the bloom. The flower is primarily pollinated at night by bats or perhaps moths. The flower opens at night and closes in the day. April, May and June are the best times to see organ pipe cactus flowers. The flowers yield to large juicy fruits with bright red flesh. Homegrown organ pipe cactus are unlikely to produce flowers unless they have been in the landscape for over a century, but you can travel to the Organ Pipe National Park in Arizona to view the spectacular flowers.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
The Ocotillo is native to the Sonoran and Chihuahuan deserts. These spectacular plants grow in open stony, arid areas and are notable for their bright red flowers and whip-like stems. Wild ocotillo is also known as candlewood, slim wood, flaming sword and many other pictorial names. If you’re wondering, “why is my Ocotillo not blooming,” read on for some possible reasons and solutions to make this desert wonder fully flower.
Why is My Ocotillo Not Blooming?
Ocotillo plants are common in their native regions. The slender stems and tiny leaves are accents for the crimson blooms that decorate the tips of the branches. The plants make excellent natural screens and borders, adding bright garden accents during their bloom time. Native garden centers can provide you with healthy specimens of the plants for a natural and easy to grow desert landscape solution.
Also known as Jacob’s Staff, Ocotillo is a tenacious desert dweller which is mostly leafless until the rainy season. The oval leaves quickly disappear when the soil dries out, leaving behind spiny, skinny branches that may approach 15 feet in length. Their impressive height and rapid growth make these plants a natural for arid region screens or hedges. In spite of their mostly leafless state, the long stems are adorned with small spines which serve as an effective barrier to most, while creating shelter for tiny birds and animals. New plants should be planted in the same orientation in which they were grown. This is because the southernmost side has built up thicker tissue to resist harsh sun. Incorrect orientation can cause severe sunscald on the more tender northern side of the plant.
When Does Ocotillo Bloom?
When does Ocotillo bloom? March through June is the period in which to expect bright crimson-orange flowers on your Ocotillo. The Ocotillo blooming season is directed by the rainy season. Too much or too little rain can delay or inhibit Ocotillo flowers. The plants are quite sensitive to soil type and require gritty, well-draining soil. In fact, low fertility seems to be a key to making this plant happy. Using compost or excess fertilizer will actually result in an unhappy plant. Newly planted specimens benefit from consistent watering before establishment but, otherwise, the plants need very little special care. The 1- to 2-inch long red-lobed blooms will naturally fall off when they have been fertilized.
How to Make an Ocotillo Bloom
If you are frustrated by your plant’s inability to flower, take heart. Newly planted Ocotillos require some time to reestablish their root systems. This can inhibit blooming. Other factors that may delay flowering would be lack of water in late winter to early spring. Excess fertilizer or rich soil can also cause Ocotillo to produce few to no flowers. These plants really need fairly harsh conditions to thrive. They aren’t going to produce flowers in a wet, cold area either. Mimicking their native conditions is the how to make an Ocotillo bloom. As with any plant, they will thrive and perform best if they are in a site that closely resembles their wild soil, lighting and moisture conditions.
Why is My Ocotillo Not Blooming?
Ocotillo plants are common in their native regions. The slender stems and tiny leaves are accents for the crimson blooms that decorate the tips of the branches. The plants make excellent natural screens and borders, adding bright garden accents during their bloom time. Native garden centers can provide you with healthy specimens of the plants for a natural and easy to grow desert landscape solution.
Also known as Jacob’s Staff, Ocotillo is a tenacious desert dweller which is mostly leafless until the rainy season. The oval leaves quickly disappear when the soil dries out, leaving behind spiny, skinny branches that may approach 15 feet in length. Their impressive height and rapid growth make these plants a natural for arid region screens or hedges. In spite of their mostly leafless state, the long stems are adorned with small spines which serve as an effective barrier to most, while creating shelter for tiny birds and animals. New plants should be planted in the same orientation in which they were grown. This is because the southernmost side has built up thicker tissue to resist harsh sun. Incorrect orientation can cause severe sunscald on the more tender northern side of the plant.
When Does Ocotillo Bloom?
When does Ocotillo bloom? March through June is the period in which to expect bright crimson-orange flowers on your Ocotillo. The Ocotillo blooming season is directed by the rainy season. Too much or too little rain can delay or inhibit Ocotillo flowers. The plants are quite sensitive to soil type and require gritty, well-draining soil. In fact, low fertility seems to be a key to making this plant happy. Using compost or excess fertilizer will actually result in an unhappy plant. Newly planted specimens benefit from consistent watering before establishment but, otherwise, the plants need very little special care. The 1- to 2-inch long red-lobed blooms will naturally fall off when they have been fertilized.
How to Make an Ocotillo Bloom
If you are frustrated by your plant’s inability to flower, take heart. Newly planted Ocotillos require some time to reestablish their root systems. This can inhibit blooming. Other factors that may delay flowering would be lack of water in late winter to early spring. Excess fertilizer or rich soil can also cause Ocotillo to produce few to no flowers. These plants really need fairly harsh conditions to thrive. They aren’t going to produce flowers in a wet, cold area either. Mimicking their native conditions is the how to make an Ocotillo bloom. As with any plant, they will thrive and perform best if they are in a site that closely resembles their wild soil, lighting and moisture conditions.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Beautiful but destructive in the wrong environment, water hyacinths (Eichhornia crassipes) are among the showiest of water garden plants. Flower stalks that grow about six inches above the foliage arise from the centers of the rosettes in spring, and by the end of spring, each plant holds as many as 20 gorgeous purple flowers. The flowers last until fall and make striking cut flowers.
How to Grow Water Hyacinth
Growing water hyacinth plants is easy. Once established, they require no special care except occasional thinning to keep them from choking out everything else in the pond. Under perfect conditions, a colony of water hyacinths can double its size every 8 to 12 days.
Water hyacinths need full sun and hot summer temperatures. Introduce them to the garden by scattering bunches of plants over the surface of the water. They quickly take hold and begin to grow. Thin the plants when they cover more than 60 percent of the water surface. Water hyacinth plants survive winters in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. They are best grown as annuals in places where cold winters keep them in check by killing them back. In warmer areas, these plants do become invasive. You can overwinter them indoors in a sunny spot, but they are inexpensive to replace each year. Most gardeners don’t find them worth the trouble to keep over winter.
Container Grown Water Hyacinths
A half barrel is an ideal container for a water hyacinth. The plants need full sun in garden ponds, but in containers they do best if they have shade from mid to late afternoon. Cover the inside of the barrel with a heavy duty garbage bag and then place a layer of soil in the bottom of the container. Don’t use commercial potting soil, which contains fertilizers and other chemicals that may harm the plant and encourage the growth of algae. Commercial soils also contain perlite and vermiculite, which floats to the top of the container. Cover the soil with a thin layer of sand. City water is usually treated with chlorine or chloramine, which is harmful to plants. Garden centers sell products that remove the chlorine and chloramine from the water and make it safe for plants. There is no need to treat the small amounts of water that you use to top off the container through the season.
You can allow the plant to float on the surface of the water, or anchor it in place by attaching one end of a length of nylon string to the plant and the other end to a brick.
How to Grow Water Hyacinth
Growing water hyacinth plants is easy. Once established, they require no special care except occasional thinning to keep them from choking out everything else in the pond. Under perfect conditions, a colony of water hyacinths can double its size every 8 to 12 days.
Water hyacinths need full sun and hot summer temperatures. Introduce them to the garden by scattering bunches of plants over the surface of the water. They quickly take hold and begin to grow. Thin the plants when they cover more than 60 percent of the water surface. Water hyacinth plants survive winters in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11. They are best grown as annuals in places where cold winters keep them in check by killing them back. In warmer areas, these plants do become invasive. You can overwinter them indoors in a sunny spot, but they are inexpensive to replace each year. Most gardeners don’t find them worth the trouble to keep over winter.
Container Grown Water Hyacinths
A half barrel is an ideal container for a water hyacinth. The plants need full sun in garden ponds, but in containers they do best if they have shade from mid to late afternoon. Cover the inside of the barrel with a heavy duty garbage bag and then place a layer of soil in the bottom of the container. Don’t use commercial potting soil, which contains fertilizers and other chemicals that may harm the plant and encourage the growth of algae. Commercial soils also contain perlite and vermiculite, which floats to the top of the container. Cover the soil with a thin layer of sand. City water is usually treated with chlorine or chloramine, which is harmful to plants. Garden centers sell products that remove the chlorine and chloramine from the water and make it safe for plants. There is no need to treat the small amounts of water that you use to top off the container through the season.
You can allow the plant to float on the surface of the water, or anchor it in place by attaching one end of a length of nylon string to the plant and the other end to a brick.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
A simple, quick and fun project that will add not only a decorative touch but doubles as a useful culinary staple is a Mason jar herb garden. Most herbs are extremely easy to grow and growing them in a jar is a straightforward endeavor as long as you provide plenty of light and proper drainage. A couple of herb garden Mason jars tucked into a bookshelf or resting in a sunny windowsill add a splash of outdoor color to the kitchen. Plus, the added benefit is you can easily snip off a sprig from your jar of herbs for your latest culinary masterpiece. Suitable plants for herb jars include:
Basil
Parsley
Cilantro
Chives
Thyme
Rosemary
How to Grow Herbs in a Mason Jar
The first step to creating a Mason jar herb garden is obtaining the jars. Used for canning foods since 1858, Mason jars are still available today. However, searching for them at flea markets, thrift stores or Grandma’s basement or attic is a fun, inexpensive way of getting your jars and you can pat yourself on the back for recycling and repurposing! You may even use recycled pasta or pickle jars with the labels soaked and the jars thoroughly washed. Starting your jar of herbs from seeds in the Mason jar is not a recommended course of action. Using transplants is a surer recipe for success when planting herbs in canning jars, such as the plants for herb jars listed above. Herbs have roots that are a little larger than their top growth so be sure to use a jar that allows for the root growth. It is helpful to select drought friendly herbs in case of missed watering, and trailing herbs like some thyme look lovely in the glass jar.
Adequate drainage is essential for your herbs in canning jars, so the next step is to drill a few holes in the Mason jar. This step can be dangerous, so be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves. Use a diamond cutting drill bit and cover the jar with cutting oil. Use even pressure and drill slowly to prevent breakage. Make several 1/8 to ¼ inch holes in the Mason jar. Fill the bottom of the jar with broken pottery shards, colored stones or the like to improve drainage and add visual interest to your Mason jar herb garden. Conversely, if you do not have a drill or are timid about using it on glass, you may simply fill the bottom with an inch or so of stones, marbles, pottery bit, etc. to keep the roots from becoming too wet and rotting. Fill the jar with a bagged potting mix or your own mix of equal part sphagnum peat, compost and sand to about 1 inch below the jar’s edge. Fertilizer can be added into the soil medium at this point or use a soluble fertilizer after planting.
Plant the transplanted herbs so the root ball is level or slightly below the surface of the potting media. Moisten the potting media first with a bit of warm water, then add the mix, covering the tallest transplant root ball so it sits with its top surface ¾ inch below the rim of the jar. Water the Mason jar herb garden thoroughly. Allow any excess water to drain in the sink or in a shallow tray and then place the herbs in canning jars in a sunny area where they get at least six hours of sun per day. Keep the jar of herbs moist but not sodden. As the plants outgrow the jars, replace them with new transplants and move the bigger herbs into larger pots.
Basil
Parsley
Cilantro
Chives
Thyme
Rosemary
How to Grow Herbs in a Mason Jar
The first step to creating a Mason jar herb garden is obtaining the jars. Used for canning foods since 1858, Mason jars are still available today. However, searching for them at flea markets, thrift stores or Grandma’s basement or attic is a fun, inexpensive way of getting your jars and you can pat yourself on the back for recycling and repurposing! You may even use recycled pasta or pickle jars with the labels soaked and the jars thoroughly washed. Starting your jar of herbs from seeds in the Mason jar is not a recommended course of action. Using transplants is a surer recipe for success when planting herbs in canning jars, such as the plants for herb jars listed above. Herbs have roots that are a little larger than their top growth so be sure to use a jar that allows for the root growth. It is helpful to select drought friendly herbs in case of missed watering, and trailing herbs like some thyme look lovely in the glass jar.
Adequate drainage is essential for your herbs in canning jars, so the next step is to drill a few holes in the Mason jar. This step can be dangerous, so be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves. Use a diamond cutting drill bit and cover the jar with cutting oil. Use even pressure and drill slowly to prevent breakage. Make several 1/8 to ¼ inch holes in the Mason jar. Fill the bottom of the jar with broken pottery shards, colored stones or the like to improve drainage and add visual interest to your Mason jar herb garden. Conversely, if you do not have a drill or are timid about using it on glass, you may simply fill the bottom with an inch or so of stones, marbles, pottery bit, etc. to keep the roots from becoming too wet and rotting. Fill the jar with a bagged potting mix or your own mix of equal part sphagnum peat, compost and sand to about 1 inch below the jar’s edge. Fertilizer can be added into the soil medium at this point or use a soluble fertilizer after planting.
Plant the transplanted herbs so the root ball is level or slightly below the surface of the potting media. Moisten the potting media first with a bit of warm water, then add the mix, covering the tallest transplant root ball so it sits with its top surface ¾ inch below the rim of the jar. Water the Mason jar herb garden thoroughly. Allow any excess water to drain in the sink or in a shallow tray and then place the herbs in canning jars in a sunny area where they get at least six hours of sun per day. Keep the jar of herbs moist but not sodden. As the plants outgrow the jars, replace them with new transplants and move the bigger herbs into larger pots.
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1
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
The autumn frost signals the end to the garden for the year, as well as the end of fresh-grown herbs picked from outdoors and brought in for food and teas. Creative gardeners are asking, “Can you grow herbs in water?” Instead of dealing with potting soil and planters, why not find some herbs that can grow in water and set up a row of attractive vases on your windowsill? Stems of perennial herbs will grow roots in glasses or jars of plain water, adding to your kitchen décor as well as producing new leaves and buds for use in fresh dishes through the cold winter months.
Herbs That Root in Water
Herbs that root in water and grow through the winter months are perennial herbs. Annual herbs are designed by nature to grow one season, produce seeds, and then die. Perennials will keep coming back and producing more leaves as long as you keep pinching off the older leaves as they grow to full size.
Some of the easiest and most popular herbs grown in water are:
Sage
Stevia
Thyme
Mint
Basil
Oregano
Lemon balm
The basic rule is if you like to use it and it’s a perennial, it will likely grow in water over the winter.
How to Grow Herb Plants in Water
This project is simple enough that you can teach your children how to grow herb plants in water and use this as an educational bit of entertainment. Begin with stems of herb plants from your garden, or even some perennial herbs from the grocery store. Clip stems about 6 inches long and remove the leaves from the bottom 4 inches of the stems. If you’re using grocery store herbs, cut off the bottom of each stem to allow it to absorb the most water. Fill a large-mouthed jar or glass with clear water from the tap or bottle, but avoid distilled water. Distilling removes some essential minerals that allow the herbs to grow. If you use a clear glass container, you’ll have to change the water more frequently, as algae will form more rapidly in a clear glass. Opaque glass is best. If you are determined to use that great-looking clear jar, tape construction paper to one side of the jar to keep sunlight from the water.
Herbs that root in water do so partly by absorbing moisture through the bottom of the stem, so clip each stem end at an angle to increase the area for the stem to use. Place the herb stems in the jars filled with water and place them in a spot where they get at least six hours of sunlight each day. Growing herbs in water will give you a small but steady supply through the winter. Clip each leaf as it grows to full size. This will encourage the stem to produce more leaves at the top. The stem will grow for months in this way, long enough to keep your kitchen in fresh herbs until the next generation of plants grows in the spring.
Herbs That Root in Water
Herbs that root in water and grow through the winter months are perennial herbs. Annual herbs are designed by nature to grow one season, produce seeds, and then die. Perennials will keep coming back and producing more leaves as long as you keep pinching off the older leaves as they grow to full size.
Some of the easiest and most popular herbs grown in water are:
Sage
Stevia
Thyme
Mint
Basil
Oregano
Lemon balm
The basic rule is if you like to use it and it’s a perennial, it will likely grow in water over the winter.
How to Grow Herb Plants in Water
This project is simple enough that you can teach your children how to grow herb plants in water and use this as an educational bit of entertainment. Begin with stems of herb plants from your garden, or even some perennial herbs from the grocery store. Clip stems about 6 inches long and remove the leaves from the bottom 4 inches of the stems. If you’re using grocery store herbs, cut off the bottom of each stem to allow it to absorb the most water. Fill a large-mouthed jar or glass with clear water from the tap or bottle, but avoid distilled water. Distilling removes some essential minerals that allow the herbs to grow. If you use a clear glass container, you’ll have to change the water more frequently, as algae will form more rapidly in a clear glass. Opaque glass is best. If you are determined to use that great-looking clear jar, tape construction paper to one side of the jar to keep sunlight from the water.
Herbs that root in water do so partly by absorbing moisture through the bottom of the stem, so clip each stem end at an angle to increase the area for the stem to use. Place the herb stems in the jars filled with water and place them in a spot where they get at least six hours of sunlight each day. Growing herbs in water will give you a small but steady supply through the winter. Clip each leaf as it grows to full size. This will encourage the stem to produce more leaves at the top. The stem will grow for months in this way, long enough to keep your kitchen in fresh herbs until the next generation of plants grows in the spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Herbs are some of the most useful plants you can grow. They can be kept compact in containers, even in a sunny window in your kitchen. Anyone who’s used them knows that homegrown herbs taste better and are much cheaper than store bought herbs, and they usually only need to be used in small amounts. But sometimes your herbs can get away from you, and if you’re growing them outside, they can get beaten back by fall frost. In these cases, the best thing to do is to cut and preserve them. What are some of the best ways to do that? Keep reading to learn more about preserving herbs from the garden.
Preserving Herbs from the Garden
There are a few herb preservation methods, but two of the easiest and most successful are freezing and drying. These methods usually preserve the herbs’ color and flavor well.
Freezing herbs
When freezing fresh herbs, you can either blanch them first or not. Blanching can dampen the flavor a little, but it helps preserve the color better. To blanch, simply place your herbs in a colander and dump boiling water over them for a second – it doesn’t take much. Basil really benefits from blanching and will turn black if frozen without it. Herbs can be frozen whole or cut into smaller pieces. Whatever you decide to do, lay your herbs out on a cookie sheet and freeze the whole thing overnight. The next morning combine it all in a plastic bag and store it in the freezer – this keeps the herbs from freezing together as a solid, hard to use mass. Freezing fresh herbs can also be done using an ice cube tray. Cut up your herbs and press them into an ice cube tray, about a tablespoon per cube. Freeze it overnight. The next morning, fill the tray the rest of the way up with water. This will give you easy to use portions of frozen herbs.
Drying herbs
Another method for storing garden herbs is drying. Drying herbs can be done in the oven, the microwave, or by air. Lay your herbs on a cookie sheet and bake them on the lowest possible setting in the oven until they’re dry and brittle. Note, they will lose some flavor this way. You can also microwave them between paper towels for a few minutes for the same effect. A very popular and decorative way of drying herbs is to hang them upside down and allow them to air dry. Store them in a warm but, preferably, dark place to prevent the loss of flavor. Tie them in small bundles to allow for good air circulation. Now you’re ready to continue using and enjoying fresh herbs year round.
Preserving Herbs from the Garden
There are a few herb preservation methods, but two of the easiest and most successful are freezing and drying. These methods usually preserve the herbs’ color and flavor well.
Freezing herbs
When freezing fresh herbs, you can either blanch them first or not. Blanching can dampen the flavor a little, but it helps preserve the color better. To blanch, simply place your herbs in a colander and dump boiling water over them for a second – it doesn’t take much. Basil really benefits from blanching and will turn black if frozen without it. Herbs can be frozen whole or cut into smaller pieces. Whatever you decide to do, lay your herbs out on a cookie sheet and freeze the whole thing overnight. The next morning combine it all in a plastic bag and store it in the freezer – this keeps the herbs from freezing together as a solid, hard to use mass. Freezing fresh herbs can also be done using an ice cube tray. Cut up your herbs and press them into an ice cube tray, about a tablespoon per cube. Freeze it overnight. The next morning, fill the tray the rest of the way up with water. This will give you easy to use portions of frozen herbs.
Drying herbs
Another method for storing garden herbs is drying. Drying herbs can be done in the oven, the microwave, or by air. Lay your herbs on a cookie sheet and bake them on the lowest possible setting in the oven until they’re dry and brittle. Note, they will lose some flavor this way. You can also microwave them between paper towels for a few minutes for the same effect. A very popular and decorative way of drying herbs is to hang them upside down and allow them to air dry. Store them in a warm but, preferably, dark place to prevent the loss of flavor. Tie them in small bundles to allow for good air circulation. Now you’re ready to continue using and enjoying fresh herbs year round.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Growing parsley indoors on a sunny windowsill is ornamental as well as practical. Curly types have lacy, frilly foliage that looks great in any setting and flat-leaf varieties are prized for their flavor. Learning how to grow parsley indoors is not at all complicated and neither is indoor parsley care.
Parsley Container Gardening
Parsley herbs (Petroselinum crispum) grow best in a sunny, preferably south-facing window where they will receive six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. If your window doesn’t provide that much light, you’ll have to supplement it with fluorescent lighting. Turn the pot every three or four days so that the plant doesn’t lean into the sun.
Parsley container gardening is no different than growing any other potted herbs. Choose a container that fits snuggly on the window sill. It should have several drainage holes and a saucer underneath to catch water as it drains through. Fill the pot with a good quality potting soil and add a handful of clean sand to improve the drainage. Humidity isn’t usually a problem when you grow parsley in the kitchen where steam from cooking and the frequent use of water helps keep the air moist. In other locations, you may need to mist the plants from time to time. If the leaves look dry and brittle, set the plant on top of a tray of pebbles and add water to the tray, leaving the tops of the pebbles exposed. As the water evaporates, it increases the humidity of the air around the plant.
How to Grow Parsley Indoors
When you’re ready for growing parsley indoors, it’s best to start parsley from seeds sown directly in the container because parsley has a long tap root that doesn’t transplant well. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface of the soil and cover them with an additional 1/4 inch of soil. Water the pot regularly to keep the soil moist to the touch but not soggy, and expect seedlings to emerge in three weeks or so. If you get too many seedlings, you’ll have to thin them out. Clip out the excess with scissors or pinch them out between your fingernail and thumb. Pulling them out may damage the tap roots of the surrounding plants.
Indoor Parsley Care
Indoor parsley care is easy. Keep the soil lightly moist, and empty the saucer under the pot after every watering so that the roots don’t sit in water. Feed the plants every two weeks with fish emulsion or half-strength liquid fertilizer. You can grow other herbs in the container with parsley, if desired. Herbs that combine well in a mixed container with parsley include chives, thyme, basil, oregano and mint. When planting thyme with parsley herbs, stick them around the edges of a container or hanging basket where it can tumble over the edges.
Parsley Container Gardening
Parsley herbs (Petroselinum crispum) grow best in a sunny, preferably south-facing window where they will receive six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. If your window doesn’t provide that much light, you’ll have to supplement it with fluorescent lighting. Turn the pot every three or four days so that the plant doesn’t lean into the sun.
Parsley container gardening is no different than growing any other potted herbs. Choose a container that fits snuggly on the window sill. It should have several drainage holes and a saucer underneath to catch water as it drains through. Fill the pot with a good quality potting soil and add a handful of clean sand to improve the drainage. Humidity isn’t usually a problem when you grow parsley in the kitchen where steam from cooking and the frequent use of water helps keep the air moist. In other locations, you may need to mist the plants from time to time. If the leaves look dry and brittle, set the plant on top of a tray of pebbles and add water to the tray, leaving the tops of the pebbles exposed. As the water evaporates, it increases the humidity of the air around the plant.
How to Grow Parsley Indoors
When you’re ready for growing parsley indoors, it’s best to start parsley from seeds sown directly in the container because parsley has a long tap root that doesn’t transplant well. Sprinkle a few seeds on the surface of the soil and cover them with an additional 1/4 inch of soil. Water the pot regularly to keep the soil moist to the touch but not soggy, and expect seedlings to emerge in three weeks or so. If you get too many seedlings, you’ll have to thin them out. Clip out the excess with scissors or pinch them out between your fingernail and thumb. Pulling them out may damage the tap roots of the surrounding plants.
Indoor Parsley Care
Indoor parsley care is easy. Keep the soil lightly moist, and empty the saucer under the pot after every watering so that the roots don’t sit in water. Feed the plants every two weeks with fish emulsion or half-strength liquid fertilizer. You can grow other herbs in the container with parsley, if desired. Herbs that combine well in a mixed container with parsley include chives, thyme, basil, oregano and mint. When planting thyme with parsley herbs, stick them around the edges of a container or hanging basket where it can tumble over the edges.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
My parsley is attracting butterflies; what’s going on? Parsley is a familiar herb that makes an attractive garnish or provides a bit of flavor and nutrition to soups and other dishes. Parsley is easy to grow and the ruffled leaves add beauty and interest to the herb garden. This is probably old news, but what you may not know is that parsley is a butterfly-friendly plant, and is especially beneficial for attracting black swallowtails, anise swallowtails and others. Read on to learn about parsley attracting butterflies, and tips for growing parsley for butterflies.
Eastern Black Swallowtail on Parsley
Parsley is suitable for growing as a perennial in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. By planting parsley, you’re doing a huge favor for eastern black swallowtail butterflies, as this species feeds only on a few plants, including:
Dill
Parsley
Fennel
Carrots
Queen Anne’s lace
Providing parsley for butterflies can create a home for a native population that you can observe throughout their lifetime. Eastern black swallowtails, appreciated for their delicate beauty, are recognizable by their black wings, each marked with two rows of bright yellow spots, which are larger and brighter in males. The spots are divided by powdery blue markings, which are more pronounced in females.
Growing Parsley for Butterflies
Although parsley grows in a variety of conditions, it performs best in full sunlight and relatively rich, well-drained soil. Plant seeds directly in the garden after all danger of frost has passed in spring, or start them indoors six to eight weeks before the last average frost date in your area. Cover the seeds with about 1/8 inch of soil or fine sand. Keep the soil slightly moist until the seeds germinate (be patient, as germination may be slow). Thereafter, water the plants deeply once a week. Thin the seedlings to a distance of 10 to 12 inches between each plant when the seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall.
How to Attract Black Swallowtail Butterflies
If you’re serious about attracting black swallowtails and other butterflies to your garden, here are a few tips that will help. Avoid insecticides and other chemicals. Arrange a few flat stones in your garden. Butterflies need a place to rest and bask in the warmth of the sun. Place a tray of wet sand near your herb garden. Butterflies use the damp sand for extracting minerals and drinking water. Remember to keep the sand moist.
Will Caterpillars on Parsley Hurt Plants?
If you want to attract black swallowtails, don’t destroy the beautiful, brightly striped caterpillars! The butterflies lay their eggs on the parsley plants, which hatch into caterpillars. The caterpillars munch on leaves before pupating and creating a cocoon. When the cocoon matures, it splits and releases a beautiful black swallowtail butterfly. The butterfly depends on the plant, but the plant won’t suffer.
Eastern Black Swallowtail on Parsley
Parsley is suitable for growing as a perennial in USDA plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. By planting parsley, you’re doing a huge favor for eastern black swallowtail butterflies, as this species feeds only on a few plants, including:
Dill
Parsley
Fennel
Carrots
Queen Anne’s lace
Providing parsley for butterflies can create a home for a native population that you can observe throughout their lifetime. Eastern black swallowtails, appreciated for their delicate beauty, are recognizable by their black wings, each marked with two rows of bright yellow spots, which are larger and brighter in males. The spots are divided by powdery blue markings, which are more pronounced in females.
Growing Parsley for Butterflies
Although parsley grows in a variety of conditions, it performs best in full sunlight and relatively rich, well-drained soil. Plant seeds directly in the garden after all danger of frost has passed in spring, or start them indoors six to eight weeks before the last average frost date in your area. Cover the seeds with about 1/8 inch of soil or fine sand. Keep the soil slightly moist until the seeds germinate (be patient, as germination may be slow). Thereafter, water the plants deeply once a week. Thin the seedlings to a distance of 10 to 12 inches between each plant when the seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall.
How to Attract Black Swallowtail Butterflies
If you’re serious about attracting black swallowtails and other butterflies to your garden, here are a few tips that will help. Avoid insecticides and other chemicals. Arrange a few flat stones in your garden. Butterflies need a place to rest and bask in the warmth of the sun. Place a tray of wet sand near your herb garden. Butterflies use the damp sand for extracting minerals and drinking water. Remember to keep the sand moist.
Will Caterpillars on Parsley Hurt Plants?
If you want to attract black swallowtails, don’t destroy the beautiful, brightly striped caterpillars! The butterflies lay their eggs on the parsley plants, which hatch into caterpillars. The caterpillars munch on leaves before pupating and creating a cocoon. When the cocoon matures, it splits and releases a beautiful black swallowtail butterfly. The butterfly depends on the plant, but the plant won’t suffer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Most herbs are easy to grow in well-drained soil and bright light, and parsley is no exception. This common herb has a rich history of use for flavoring, medicine, ritual purposes and it even freshens your breath after a meal. Wilted parsley plants may represent a water issue or even disease. Refreshing wilted parsley might be as simple as providing water, but be cautious. Too much moisture can have a similar effect and may promote rot, a condition the plant can’t overcome.
Why a Parsley Plant is Wilting
You’ve planted a variety of herbs in your cottage garden or a window box and now it’s time to let them flourish and begin using them in your favorite dishes. One day you look out the window and wonder, “Why is my parsley plant wilting?” Site conditions, lighting, moisture levels, disease, damping off and even failure to harden off seedlings can cause limp leaves and stems. Put on your Sherlock Holmes hat and let’s walk through a few possible causes and solutions.
If young plants are wilting, it may be a symptom of damping off or you may have forgotten to harden off seedlings. Damping off is caused by a fungus that favors overly moist, warm conditions. Often grayish fuzz will appear at the base of the plant, which will eventually rot off the stems, separating them from the life-giving roots. Wilted parsley plants may also come about due to improperly exposing new plants to the outdoors. Indoor grown seedlings require some time to adapt to outdoor lighting, wind and temperature circumstances. Gradually exposing them to the outside setting will give them a chance to adapt and prevent stress, sun and wind burn and other issues. A few diseases are the cause when a parsley plant is wilting. Stem rot and leaf spot will cause yellowing foliage and eventually limp leaves. Destroy these plants.
Cultural Care of Parsley Plants
Parsley is fairly easy to grow provided the soil drains freely and the plants get adequate light. Plant parsley in moist, rich soil that has been loosened deeply. This will promote deep rooting and help plants uptake water and nutrients. Spread mulch loosely around the plants to prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Parsley likes consistent moisture but cannot tolerate boggy soil. Keeping the soil evenly moist will make for happy plants, but too much or too little water can cause wilting. Full sun locations in the summer may also see limp leaves and stems appearing during the middle of the day. This is because the plant is evaporating more moisture than it can uptake. Watering them is not always the correct response to refreshing wilted parsley. Try shading them during this time of day. Usually the plants perk up in the evening and morning.
How to Revive Wilted Parsley
Container grown plants need more water than those in the ground. Check the soil to a depth of 3 inches with your finger. If it is dry, water until the pot leeches the soil through the drainage holes. You may also want to move the container to a lower light situation in the hottest part of the summer. If soil doesn’t drain freely, wait until the cool of evening and dig the plant up. Incorporate some sand or other gritty matter to increase percolation. Replant the parsley and water it in. It may seem wilted for a few days due to shock but should eventually recover.
Why a Parsley Plant is Wilting
You’ve planted a variety of herbs in your cottage garden or a window box and now it’s time to let them flourish and begin using them in your favorite dishes. One day you look out the window and wonder, “Why is my parsley plant wilting?” Site conditions, lighting, moisture levels, disease, damping off and even failure to harden off seedlings can cause limp leaves and stems. Put on your Sherlock Holmes hat and let’s walk through a few possible causes and solutions.
If young plants are wilting, it may be a symptom of damping off or you may have forgotten to harden off seedlings. Damping off is caused by a fungus that favors overly moist, warm conditions. Often grayish fuzz will appear at the base of the plant, which will eventually rot off the stems, separating them from the life-giving roots. Wilted parsley plants may also come about due to improperly exposing new plants to the outdoors. Indoor grown seedlings require some time to adapt to outdoor lighting, wind and temperature circumstances. Gradually exposing them to the outside setting will give them a chance to adapt and prevent stress, sun and wind burn and other issues. A few diseases are the cause when a parsley plant is wilting. Stem rot and leaf spot will cause yellowing foliage and eventually limp leaves. Destroy these plants.
Cultural Care of Parsley Plants
Parsley is fairly easy to grow provided the soil drains freely and the plants get adequate light. Plant parsley in moist, rich soil that has been loosened deeply. This will promote deep rooting and help plants uptake water and nutrients. Spread mulch loosely around the plants to prevent weeds and conserve moisture. Parsley likes consistent moisture but cannot tolerate boggy soil. Keeping the soil evenly moist will make for happy plants, but too much or too little water can cause wilting. Full sun locations in the summer may also see limp leaves and stems appearing during the middle of the day. This is because the plant is evaporating more moisture than it can uptake. Watering them is not always the correct response to refreshing wilted parsley. Try shading them during this time of day. Usually the plants perk up in the evening and morning.
How to Revive Wilted Parsley
Container grown plants need more water than those in the ground. Check the soil to a depth of 3 inches with your finger. If it is dry, water until the pot leeches the soil through the drainage holes. You may also want to move the container to a lower light situation in the hottest part of the summer. If soil doesn’t drain freely, wait until the cool of evening and dig the plant up. Incorporate some sand or other gritty matter to increase percolation. Replant the parsley and water it in. It may seem wilted for a few days due to shock but should eventually recover.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Parsley is a staple of the cottage garden with numerous herbal and culinary uses. It is easy to grow and there are several varieties from which to choose. Parsley plant problems are rare but a few insects and fungal diseases can become troublesome. Most disease pathogens affect the foliage but a few diseases of parsley can attack the crown and roots and cause the plant to die. Preventing parsley plant diseases begins with good site control and cultivation.
Problems with Parsley Plants
There are very few cuisines that don’t taste and look better with a bit of fresh parsley, but this old-fashioned herb is more than a garnish on your breakfast plate. It has a history of use as wreaths and garland, medication and flavoring.
Growing parsley is simple once you get over the slow germination hurdle and it is easy to harvest in a progressive manner, so a fresh supply is always available. Parsley plant problems are usually pest related, but occasionally, a plant will become afflicted with a disease. Some of the more common symptoms are listed here as well as a guide to treatment for the various diseases of parsley. The tasty herb is a favorite of insects, rabbits and grazing wild animals. If you can keep your parsley from succumbing to these munchers, you still have some other obstacles with which to contend. Aster yellows, for instance, is a disease of parsley that is transmitted from leafhoppers.
Parsley is a member of the same family as carrots and celery and is prey to similar diseases. The most common issue is fungal disease. These come in many forms and generally afflict plants in moist regions or when unseasonably wet, warm weather is present. Soil borne pathogens transmit to the plants from the roots or by splattering onto the leaves. Overhead watering and improper circulation cement the formation of fungal spores and their transport. Cultural care is essential to preventing these forms of parsley plant diseases. Crown/root rot – Crown and root rot are associated with soggy soil. The perpetrators are both a fungi and bacteria found in soil that burst into action when the ground is moist. Leaves turn yellow and brown followed by stems and the entire plant discoloring and dying. Roots will blacken and decay and new shoots will not form. Leaf Spot – Another of the common problems with parsley plants is leaf spot, caused by the Septoria fungus. Yellow spots show up on the foliage and darken to brown with a golden halo. Leaves wilt and occasionally fall off. The entire plant is weakened by the disease. The fungus is seed borne or splashed onto plants. This is considered the most important of the parsley plant diseases and has caused entire crops to fail. Blight – Blight is caused by the fungus Botrytis and is also called gray mold. The disease starts out with brown to black spots on the leaves. White-gray fungal growth is sported on all leaf surfaces over time. Leaves fail to thrive and die.
Treating Parsley Diseases
There are a few varieties of parsley that are resistant to the most common diseases, among them ‘Paramount.’ If seed is not available from one of the resistant varieties, cultural control is often effective at combating these diseases. Use a drip line to water plants and irrigate in the morning so there is plenty of time for the parsley to dry. Practice crop rotation to prevent soil borne pathogens from infesting successive crops. Thin the herbs to encourage circulation and plant parsley in a sunny location. Air and sunlight are crucial to treating parsley diseases. Some fungal diseases will respond to sulfur fungicide applied at the first sign of infection. If plants are already heavily infested and failing, pull them up and discard them and start anew.
Problems with Parsley Plants
There are very few cuisines that don’t taste and look better with a bit of fresh parsley, but this old-fashioned herb is more than a garnish on your breakfast plate. It has a history of use as wreaths and garland, medication and flavoring.
Growing parsley is simple once you get over the slow germination hurdle and it is easy to harvest in a progressive manner, so a fresh supply is always available. Parsley plant problems are usually pest related, but occasionally, a plant will become afflicted with a disease. Some of the more common symptoms are listed here as well as a guide to treatment for the various diseases of parsley. The tasty herb is a favorite of insects, rabbits and grazing wild animals. If you can keep your parsley from succumbing to these munchers, you still have some other obstacles with which to contend. Aster yellows, for instance, is a disease of parsley that is transmitted from leafhoppers.
Parsley is a member of the same family as carrots and celery and is prey to similar diseases. The most common issue is fungal disease. These come in many forms and generally afflict plants in moist regions or when unseasonably wet, warm weather is present. Soil borne pathogens transmit to the plants from the roots or by splattering onto the leaves. Overhead watering and improper circulation cement the formation of fungal spores and their transport. Cultural care is essential to preventing these forms of parsley plant diseases. Crown/root rot – Crown and root rot are associated with soggy soil. The perpetrators are both a fungi and bacteria found in soil that burst into action when the ground is moist. Leaves turn yellow and brown followed by stems and the entire plant discoloring and dying. Roots will blacken and decay and new shoots will not form. Leaf Spot – Another of the common problems with parsley plants is leaf spot, caused by the Septoria fungus. Yellow spots show up on the foliage and darken to brown with a golden halo. Leaves wilt and occasionally fall off. The entire plant is weakened by the disease. The fungus is seed borne or splashed onto plants. This is considered the most important of the parsley plant diseases and has caused entire crops to fail. Blight – Blight is caused by the fungus Botrytis and is also called gray mold. The disease starts out with brown to black spots on the leaves. White-gray fungal growth is sported on all leaf surfaces over time. Leaves fail to thrive and die.
Treating Parsley Diseases
There are a few varieties of parsley that are resistant to the most common diseases, among them ‘Paramount.’ If seed is not available from one of the resistant varieties, cultural control is often effective at combating these diseases. Use a drip line to water plants and irrigate in the morning so there is plenty of time for the parsley to dry. Practice crop rotation to prevent soil borne pathogens from infesting successive crops. Thin the herbs to encourage circulation and plant parsley in a sunny location. Air and sunlight are crucial to treating parsley diseases. Some fungal diseases will respond to sulfur fungicide applied at the first sign of infection. If plants are already heavily infested and failing, pull them up and discard them and start anew.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Lots of people grow mint out in the garden and for those who know just how vigorous this herb plant is, then it’s no surprise to learn that it thrives easily in a potted environment just as well. In fact, not only can it grow happily in the garden and in pots, but growing mint indoors can also be achieved.
How to Grow Mint Indoors
Growing and planting mint indoors is easy. You can find mint growing indoors in a pot of soil or even in a bottle of water. For starters, you need a container with adequate drainage for healthy plant growth. Pot up your mint plant with a good potting mix, either a regular commercial type or one with equal amounts of sand, peat, and perlite mixed in.
Water the mint plant well after planting and place it in an area with indirect light, preferably an east-facing window during spring and summer or a west- or south-facing one in fall and winter. You’ll also want to locate your mint plant in an area with an indoor temperature of around 65-70 F. (18-21 C.) during the day and 55-60 F. (13-15 C.) at night.
If you wish to grow mint plants in water, simply take tip cuttings of about 5 to 6 inches in length from an established mint plant. Remove the bottom leaves and place the cuttings in a water-filled glass or bottle. Set this in a sunny window with at least four to six hours of light each day.
Care for Mint Growing Indoors
When growing mint inside, there are a few things necessary for its continual care. One is watering. These plants prefer to be kept moist but not overly wet. If the upper part of soil becomes dry to the touch, then watering is needed. Otherwise, try to keep it evenly moist. Humidity is another important factor, so mist the plant between watering or set the container on a water-filled tray of pebbles.
In addition, you should rotate the plant every three to four days or so to maintain a more even appearance, as plants tend to bend towards the light, becoming somewhat lopsided. If desired, you can move your mint outdoors for summer, too. While fertilizing isn’t a must with this plant, you can give it an occasional dose of all-purpose, water soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion. Mix the fertilizer at half strength. Don’t over fertilize, as this can cause the herb to lose its flavor.
How to Grow Mint Indoors
Growing and planting mint indoors is easy. You can find mint growing indoors in a pot of soil or even in a bottle of water. For starters, you need a container with adequate drainage for healthy plant growth. Pot up your mint plant with a good potting mix, either a regular commercial type or one with equal amounts of sand, peat, and perlite mixed in.
Water the mint plant well after planting and place it in an area with indirect light, preferably an east-facing window during spring and summer or a west- or south-facing one in fall and winter. You’ll also want to locate your mint plant in an area with an indoor temperature of around 65-70 F. (18-21 C.) during the day and 55-60 F. (13-15 C.) at night.
If you wish to grow mint plants in water, simply take tip cuttings of about 5 to 6 inches in length from an established mint plant. Remove the bottom leaves and place the cuttings in a water-filled glass or bottle. Set this in a sunny window with at least four to six hours of light each day.
Care for Mint Growing Indoors
When growing mint inside, there are a few things necessary for its continual care. One is watering. These plants prefer to be kept moist but not overly wet. If the upper part of soil becomes dry to the touch, then watering is needed. Otherwise, try to keep it evenly moist. Humidity is another important factor, so mist the plant between watering or set the container on a water-filled tray of pebbles.
In addition, you should rotate the plant every three to four days or so to maintain a more even appearance, as plants tend to bend towards the light, becoming somewhat lopsided. If desired, you can move your mint outdoors for summer, too. While fertilizing isn’t a must with this plant, you can give it an occasional dose of all-purpose, water soluble fertilizer or fish emulsion. Mix the fertilizer at half strength. Don’t over fertilize, as this can cause the herb to lose its flavor.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Almost everyone has heard of peppermint. That’s the flavoring they use in toothpaste and chewing gum, isn’t it? Yes, it is, but a peppermint planting in your home garden can offer you so much more. Learning how to grow peppermint is easy, but before we get into growing peppermint, let’s learn a little bit about the plant itself. Peppermint (Mentha x piperita) was first cultivated in 1750 near London, England as an experimental hybrid between watermint and spearmint. That you can now find naturally growing peppermint almost anywhere in the world is a testament not only to its adaptability, but as an indication of its medicinal qualities. Once our forefathers, or more likely foremothers, learned how to use the peppermint plant, they took it everywhere they moved or visited where some, no doubt, was left behind with new friends.
Peppermint Planting and Care of Peppermint
Although the care of peppermint is a little more involved than just sticking it in the ground, it certainly isn’t intricate. First and foremost, this plant needs lots of water and it is often found naturalized by streams and ponds where the soil is rich and the drainage is good. It won’t tolerate dry conditions. While partial sun is sufficient for peppermint, planting it in full sun will increase the potency of its oils and medicinal qualities. Though not as invasive as some of its mint relatives, no instructions on how to grow peppermint would be complete without mentioning its tendency to spread. Because of this, many gardeners prefer growing peppermint in containers. Others grow it in the ground with wood or plastic edging buried around the bed to prevent the spread of roots. Whatever method is chosen, good care of peppermint includes moving the plants to a new location every three or four years. They tend to weaken and become spindly if left in the same place for too long. There are two main cultivated varieties of this aromatic herb: black and white. Black peppermint has deep purple-green leaves and stems and a higher oil content. The white is actually light green and has a milder flavor. Either is adequate for growing peppermint at home.
How to Use Peppermint Plant
You can keep a peppermint planting simply for its delightful saw-toothed leaves and delicate flowers or for the spicy fragrance released when the leaves are crushed between your fingers. However, once you learn to use the peppermint plant for medicinal purposes, you may become an even greater fan. Within the pharmaceutical community, many home remedies were written off as old wives tales, but recent university research has revealed that many of our grandmother’s recommendations for how to use peppermint plant were indeed accurate and effective. Here are some proven facts:
Digestion – Peppermint is good for indigestion and bloating. As a carminative herb, peppermint has the ability to expel gas from the stomach and intestines by relaxing the muscles involved. It has also been used to successfully treat Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS). It should not, however, be used for the treatment of Gastrointestinal Reflux Disease (GERD) as it may further relax the muscles that prevent the backflow of stomach acid thus worsening the problem. Colds and Flu – Peppermint is a natural decongestant. One of the herb’s active ingredients is menthol, which thins mucus and will therefore loosen phlegm and reduce coughs. It is soothing to sore throats. Type II Diabetes – Test-tube results show that peppermint may aid in lowering blood sugar and may prove helpful to mild or pre-diabetic patients. This comes with a word of warning. When combined with medication, it may result in Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). Blood Pressure – Results are similar to those of blood sugar and the same cautions apply.
It would be remiss if we failed to mention some concerns in health care of peppermint oils and extracts. Some of these include the following: Peppermint can make gallstones worse. Large doses of peppermint oil can be fatal and any amount used on the hands or face of an infant or toddler can cause breathing spasms that may result in death. While likely safe to use, no definitive studies have been done of peppermint’s effect on pregnancy. Lastly, NEVER take peppermint with an immunosuppressant. As with all herbs, there can be unforeseen side effects or interactions with other supplements or medications and any regular use should be discussed with your health care provider.
Peppermint Planting and Care of Peppermint
Although the care of peppermint is a little more involved than just sticking it in the ground, it certainly isn’t intricate. First and foremost, this plant needs lots of water and it is often found naturalized by streams and ponds where the soil is rich and the drainage is good. It won’t tolerate dry conditions. While partial sun is sufficient for peppermint, planting it in full sun will increase the potency of its oils and medicinal qualities. Though not as invasive as some of its mint relatives, no instructions on how to grow peppermint would be complete without mentioning its tendency to spread. Because of this, many gardeners prefer growing peppermint in containers. Others grow it in the ground with wood or plastic edging buried around the bed to prevent the spread of roots. Whatever method is chosen, good care of peppermint includes moving the plants to a new location every three or four years. They tend to weaken and become spindly if left in the same place for too long. There are two main cultivated varieties of this aromatic herb: black and white. Black peppermint has deep purple-green leaves and stems and a higher oil content. The white is actually light green and has a milder flavor. Either is adequate for growing peppermint at home.
How to Use Peppermint Plant
You can keep a peppermint planting simply for its delightful saw-toothed leaves and delicate flowers or for the spicy fragrance released when the leaves are crushed between your fingers. However, once you learn to use the peppermint plant for medicinal purposes, you may become an even greater fan. Within the pharmaceutical community, many home remedies were written off as old wives tales, but recent university research has revealed that many of our grandmother’s recommendations for how to use peppermint plant were indeed accurate and effective. Here are some proven facts:
Digestion – Peppermint is good for indigestion and bloating. As a carminative herb, peppermint has the ability to expel gas from the stomach and intestines by relaxing the muscles involved. It has also been used to successfully treat Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS). It should not, however, be used for the treatment of Gastrointestinal Reflux Disease (GERD) as it may further relax the muscles that prevent the backflow of stomach acid thus worsening the problem. Colds and Flu – Peppermint is a natural decongestant. One of the herb’s active ingredients is menthol, which thins mucus and will therefore loosen phlegm and reduce coughs. It is soothing to sore throats. Type II Diabetes – Test-tube results show that peppermint may aid in lowering blood sugar and may prove helpful to mild or pre-diabetic patients. This comes with a word of warning. When combined with medication, it may result in Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). Blood Pressure – Results are similar to those of blood sugar and the same cautions apply.
It would be remiss if we failed to mention some concerns in health care of peppermint oils and extracts. Some of these include the following: Peppermint can make gallstones worse. Large doses of peppermint oil can be fatal and any amount used on the hands or face of an infant or toddler can cause breathing spasms that may result in death. While likely safe to use, no definitive studies have been done of peppermint’s effect on pregnancy. Lastly, NEVER take peppermint with an immunosuppressant. As with all herbs, there can be unforeseen side effects or interactions with other supplements or medications and any regular use should be discussed with your health care provider.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Mint growers already know that their plants can grow explosively, making pests out of themselves in places where they’re not welcome, but not all mint growers are aware of an even more obnoxious pest that feeds on these plants. When your well-behaved mint plants suddenly take a bad turn, wilt unexpectedly or seem unwell, mint plant borers may be to blame.
What are Mint Borers?
Mint borers are the larval form of a light brown moth that hold their wings over themselves like a partially flattened tent. Adults reach up to 3/4 inch, emerging from mid-June through mid-August. During the week they’re alive, adults lay eggs aggressively on peppermint and spearmint leaves. Larvae emerge in about 10 days and begin feeding on leaves. After a few days, these hungry larvae drop into the soil to chew on root hairs and burrow into the rhizomes of their host plants. The serious mint root borer damage starts at this point and continues for up to three months before the larvae leave the roots to pupate.
How to Treat Mint Borers
Mint plant borers are difficult to control because they spend most of their lives hiding inside the roots of plants most gardeners would rather keep alive. Mint root borer damage is subtle, further complicating things; signs like reduced yield, stunted growth and general weakness can be caused by a myriad of plant problems. Beneficial nematodes may be used for mint root borer control, though repeated applications are usually necessary before you see noticeable improvement. Releasing parasitic nematodes at a rate of one to two billion juveniles per acre in late August to early September can help decrease the number of juveniles that make it to adulthood. Space applications a week apart to establish a healthy colony of nematodes and reapply new eggs the following fall to further shore up numbers.
Chemicals like chlorantraniliprole, chlorpyrifos or ethoprop can be applied to beds where mint plant borers are a constant threat, but only chlorantraniliprole should be used during the growing season – you need only wait three days for a safe harvest. Chlorpyrifos requires 90 days between application and harvest, whereas ethoprop needs 225 days.
What are Mint Borers?
Mint borers are the larval form of a light brown moth that hold their wings over themselves like a partially flattened tent. Adults reach up to 3/4 inch, emerging from mid-June through mid-August. During the week they’re alive, adults lay eggs aggressively on peppermint and spearmint leaves. Larvae emerge in about 10 days and begin feeding on leaves. After a few days, these hungry larvae drop into the soil to chew on root hairs and burrow into the rhizomes of their host plants. The serious mint root borer damage starts at this point and continues for up to three months before the larvae leave the roots to pupate.
How to Treat Mint Borers
Mint plant borers are difficult to control because they spend most of their lives hiding inside the roots of plants most gardeners would rather keep alive. Mint root borer damage is subtle, further complicating things; signs like reduced yield, stunted growth and general weakness can be caused by a myriad of plant problems. Beneficial nematodes may be used for mint root borer control, though repeated applications are usually necessary before you see noticeable improvement. Releasing parasitic nematodes at a rate of one to two billion juveniles per acre in late August to early September can help decrease the number of juveniles that make it to adulthood. Space applications a week apart to establish a healthy colony of nematodes and reapply new eggs the following fall to further shore up numbers.
Chemicals like chlorantraniliprole, chlorpyrifos or ethoprop can be applied to beds where mint plant borers are a constant threat, but only chlorantraniliprole should be used during the growing season – you need only wait three days for a safe harvest. Chlorpyrifos requires 90 days between application and harvest, whereas ethoprop needs 225 days.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
If you have herbs in your garden, you likely have mint, but what other plants grow well with mint? Read on to find out about companion planting with mint and a list of mint plant companions.
Companion Planting with Mint
Companion planting is when different crops are planted near each other to control pests, aid in pollination, and to harbor beneficial insects. The byproducts of companion planting maximize garden space and increases healthy crop yields. Mint is no exception to this practice. The aromatic aroma of mint isn’t as pleasing to many crop pests, so planting crops next to mint can deter these plant nemeses. So what plants grow well with mint?
Plant Companions for Mint
Mint helps deter flea beetles, which chew holes in the foliage, of crops like:
Kale
Radish
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Carrots are another plant companion for mint and as benefit from its proximity, mint discourages carrot root fly. The pungent scent of mint confuses the insect which finds its dinner by smell. The same is true of onion flies. Planting mint next to onions will baffle the flies. Tomatoes also benefit from comingled mint planting in this way, as the aroma of the mint deters aphids and other pests. Speaking of aphids, planting mint near your prize roses will also repel these pests.
The powerful aromatic oils of mint seem to be beneficial to all of the above mint plant companions in repelling harmful insect pests. Other plant companions for mint include:
Beets
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts
Chili and bell peppers
Eggplant
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Peas
Salad burnet
Squash
Do keep in mind that mint is a prolific spreader, some might become invasive. Once you have mint, you will likely always have mint, and lots of it. But if it keeps the aphids and other winged marauders out of the veggie garden, it’s probably a small price to pay. I’m sure you can find a way to use up all that mint in the garden – mint-pistachio pesto, peas and mint with pancetta, or MOJITOS!
Companion Planting with Mint
Companion planting is when different crops are planted near each other to control pests, aid in pollination, and to harbor beneficial insects. The byproducts of companion planting maximize garden space and increases healthy crop yields. Mint is no exception to this practice. The aromatic aroma of mint isn’t as pleasing to many crop pests, so planting crops next to mint can deter these plant nemeses. So what plants grow well with mint?
Plant Companions for Mint
Mint helps deter flea beetles, which chew holes in the foliage, of crops like:
Kale
Radish
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Carrots are another plant companion for mint and as benefit from its proximity, mint discourages carrot root fly. The pungent scent of mint confuses the insect which finds its dinner by smell. The same is true of onion flies. Planting mint next to onions will baffle the flies. Tomatoes also benefit from comingled mint planting in this way, as the aroma of the mint deters aphids and other pests. Speaking of aphids, planting mint near your prize roses will also repel these pests.
The powerful aromatic oils of mint seem to be beneficial to all of the above mint plant companions in repelling harmful insect pests. Other plant companions for mint include:
Beets
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts
Chili and bell peppers
Eggplant
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Peas
Salad burnet
Squash
Do keep in mind that mint is a prolific spreader, some might become invasive. Once you have mint, you will likely always have mint, and lots of it. But if it keeps the aphids and other winged marauders out of the veggie garden, it’s probably a small price to pay. I’m sure you can find a way to use up all that mint in the garden – mint-pistachio pesto, peas and mint with pancetta, or MOJITOS!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Corsican mint (Mentha requienii) is a spreading, ground-hugging plant with petite, round leaves that emit a powerful, minty aroma when bruised. Also known as creeping mint, Corsican mint plants, which spread by narrow stems that take root as they grow, are well suited for filling in around stepping stones or pavers, but aren’t sturdy enough for heavy foot traffic. Read on to learn more about Corsican mint in gardens.
Growing Corsican Mint
Corsican mint plants tolerate full or partial sunlight. Nearly any type of moist, well-drained soil is suitable. Keep in mind that, like most mint plants, Corsican mint self-seeds readily and can be somewhat aggressive. This plant is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 9. It freezes in colder climates but usually self-seeds in spring.
Using Corsican Mint
In addition to its uses as a groundcover in the garden, Corsican mint is valuable culinary plant and great for containers. Snip the leaves to flavor hot and cold drinks, ice cream and baked goods.
Growing Corsican Mint Indoors
Corsican mint is easily grown indoors. Use a lightweight, well-drained potting mix and be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the mint where it receives morning sunlight, but where it is protected from intense light and heat. Water the plant regularly to keep the soil moist, but decrease watering during the winter months, allowing the soil to dry slightly.
Caring for Corsican Mint
Corsican mint can be somewhat finicky, especially when it comes to irrigation. These plants don’t tolerate drought, which means the soil should be kept consistently moist but not soggy. Fertilize Corsican mint every spring using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. This plant is a light feeder, so avoid over-fertilizing. Thin the plant regularly and avoid overcrowding, as mint plants require plenty of air circulation. Protect Corsican mint plants with a light covering of mulch if you live in a climate where winter freezes are possible. The plant is able to tolerate light frosts without protection.
Growing Corsican Mint
Corsican mint plants tolerate full or partial sunlight. Nearly any type of moist, well-drained soil is suitable. Keep in mind that, like most mint plants, Corsican mint self-seeds readily and can be somewhat aggressive. This plant is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 7 through 9. It freezes in colder climates but usually self-seeds in spring.
Using Corsican Mint
In addition to its uses as a groundcover in the garden, Corsican mint is valuable culinary plant and great for containers. Snip the leaves to flavor hot and cold drinks, ice cream and baked goods.
Growing Corsican Mint Indoors
Corsican mint is easily grown indoors. Use a lightweight, well-drained potting mix and be sure the pot has a drainage hole in the bottom. Place the mint where it receives morning sunlight, but where it is protected from intense light and heat. Water the plant regularly to keep the soil moist, but decrease watering during the winter months, allowing the soil to dry slightly.
Caring for Corsican Mint
Corsican mint can be somewhat finicky, especially when it comes to irrigation. These plants don’t tolerate drought, which means the soil should be kept consistently moist but not soggy. Fertilize Corsican mint every spring using a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. This plant is a light feeder, so avoid over-fertilizing. Thin the plant regularly and avoid overcrowding, as mint plants require plenty of air circulation. Protect Corsican mint plants with a light covering of mulch if you live in a climate where winter freezes are possible. The plant is able to tolerate light frosts without protection.
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