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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
While its aggressive nature and reputation for taking over the garden is well deserved, growing mint plants can be a rewarding experience if it’s kept under control. Let’s look at how to grow mint.
Mint Plants: Herbs Worth Growing
Numerous mint varieties exist and all are worth growing in the garden. While they’re most often used for flavoring dishes or as garnishes, many types of mint are also grown for their unique aromas. Some of the most commonly grown mint plants include :
spearmint
peppermint
pennyroyal
apple mint
orange mint
pineapple mint
chocolate mint
Growing Mint from Seed or Root Cuttings
All mint varieties except peppermint can be grown from seed. Peppermint does not produce seeds; therefore, this type must only be propagated by taking root cuttings from established plants. All types of mint, however, can be grown by this means. In fact, taking a cutting is one of the easiest methods for growing mint. Simply pull or snip off a rooted piece of mint growing from the parent plant. Pot it up and water. Large clumps can also be dug up and divided into smaller plants.
How to Grow Mint Plants
One of the best ways to grow mint in the garden without the threat of rampant spreading is by using containers. Merely sink them into the soil leaving the top sticking out about an inch or so. You may also want to keep the containers spaced at least a foot or two apart to prevent various types from cross-pollinating. Although most varieties of mint are easy to grow in various settings, these plants thrive best when located in organically rich, moist but well-drained soil. Full sun to partial shade is also acceptable for growing mint. Mint leaves can be harvested for use in the kitchen once plants have begun to flower.
Problems Affecting Mint Plants
While growing mint usually presents few problems other than aggressive spreading on the part of the plant itself, pests can occasionally affect mint plants. Some of the most common include aphids, spider mites, cutworms and mint root borers. Mint can also be susceptible to diseases such as mint rust, verticillium wilt, and anthracnose.
Mint Plants: Herbs Worth Growing
Numerous mint varieties exist and all are worth growing in the garden. While they’re most often used for flavoring dishes or as garnishes, many types of mint are also grown for their unique aromas. Some of the most commonly grown mint plants include :
spearmint
peppermint
pennyroyal
apple mint
orange mint
pineapple mint
chocolate mint
Growing Mint from Seed or Root Cuttings
All mint varieties except peppermint can be grown from seed. Peppermint does not produce seeds; therefore, this type must only be propagated by taking root cuttings from established plants. All types of mint, however, can be grown by this means. In fact, taking a cutting is one of the easiest methods for growing mint. Simply pull or snip off a rooted piece of mint growing from the parent plant. Pot it up and water. Large clumps can also be dug up and divided into smaller plants.
How to Grow Mint Plants
One of the best ways to grow mint in the garden without the threat of rampant spreading is by using containers. Merely sink them into the soil leaving the top sticking out about an inch or so. You may also want to keep the containers spaced at least a foot or two apart to prevent various types from cross-pollinating. Although most varieties of mint are easy to grow in various settings, these plants thrive best when located in organically rich, moist but well-drained soil. Full sun to partial shade is also acceptable for growing mint. Mint leaves can be harvested for use in the kitchen once plants have begun to flower.
Problems Affecting Mint Plants
While growing mint usually presents few problems other than aggressive spreading on the part of the plant itself, pests can occasionally affect mint plants. Some of the most common include aphids, spider mites, cutworms and mint root borers. Mint can also be susceptible to diseases such as mint rust, verticillium wilt, and anthracnose.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Did you know that you can grow your own tea? Tea (Camellia sinensis) is an evergreen shrub native to China that can be grown outdoors in USDA zones 7-9. For those in cooler zones, consider growing tea plants in pots. Camellia sinensis makes an excellent container grown tea plant as it is a smaller shrub that when contained will only reach a height of about 6 feet (under 2 meters). Read on to find out about growing tea at home and tea plant container care.
About Growing Tea at Home
Tea is grown in 45 countries and is worth billions of dollars to the world’s economy annually. While tea plants are adapted to tropical areas and lowland areas of the subtropics, growing tea plants in pots allows the gardener to control temperatures. Although tea plants are hardy and will generally survive to just under freezing temperatures, they may still be damaged or killed. This means that in cooler climates, tea lovers can grow plants inside provided they give plenty of light and warm temps. Tea plant harvesting is done in the spring with the new flush of leaves. Only the young green leaves are used to make tea. Winter pruning will not only keep the plant a manageable size for containers, but engender a new burst of young leaves.
Tea Plant Container Care
Container grown tea plants should be planted in a pot with plenty of drainage holes, that is 2 times the size of the root ball. Fill the bottom third of the pot with well-draining, acidic potting soil. Place the tea plant atop the soil and fill in around it with more soil, leaving the crown of the plant just above the soil. Place the plant in an area with bright, indirect light and with temperatures about 70 F. (21 C.). Keep the plant well watered but do not allow the roots to become water logged. Water until the water runs out of the drainage holes. Allow the soil to drain and don’t let the container sit in water. Let the top few inches of soil dry between watering.
Fertilize the container grown tea plant during its active growing season, from spring through fall. At this time, apply an acidic plant fertilizer every 3 weeks, diluted to half the strength according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Prune the tea plant yearly after it blooms. Also remove any dead or damaged branches. To restrict the height of the plant and/or to facilitate new growth, prune the shrub back by about half its height. If the roots begin to outgrow the container, repot the plant into a larger container or trim the roots to fit the pot. Repot as needed, usually every 2-4 years.
About Growing Tea at Home
Tea is grown in 45 countries and is worth billions of dollars to the world’s economy annually. While tea plants are adapted to tropical areas and lowland areas of the subtropics, growing tea plants in pots allows the gardener to control temperatures. Although tea plants are hardy and will generally survive to just under freezing temperatures, they may still be damaged or killed. This means that in cooler climates, tea lovers can grow plants inside provided they give plenty of light and warm temps. Tea plant harvesting is done in the spring with the new flush of leaves. Only the young green leaves are used to make tea. Winter pruning will not only keep the plant a manageable size for containers, but engender a new burst of young leaves.
Tea Plant Container Care
Container grown tea plants should be planted in a pot with plenty of drainage holes, that is 2 times the size of the root ball. Fill the bottom third of the pot with well-draining, acidic potting soil. Place the tea plant atop the soil and fill in around it with more soil, leaving the crown of the plant just above the soil. Place the plant in an area with bright, indirect light and with temperatures about 70 F. (21 C.). Keep the plant well watered but do not allow the roots to become water logged. Water until the water runs out of the drainage holes. Allow the soil to drain and don’t let the container sit in water. Let the top few inches of soil dry between watering.
Fertilize the container grown tea plant during its active growing season, from spring through fall. At this time, apply an acidic plant fertilizer every 3 weeks, diluted to half the strength according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Prune the tea plant yearly after it blooms. Also remove any dead or damaged branches. To restrict the height of the plant and/or to facilitate new growth, prune the shrub back by about half its height. If the roots begin to outgrow the container, repot the plant into a larger container or trim the roots to fit the pot. Repot as needed, usually every 2-4 years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Sugarcane plants are a genus of tall tropically growing perennial grasses from the family Poaceae. These fibrous stalks, rich in sugar, cannot survive in areas with cold winters. So, how then do you grow them? Let’s find out how to grow sugarcanes.
Sugarcane Plant Info
A tropical grass native to Asia, sugarcane plants have been grown for over 4,000 years. Their first use was as a “chewing cane” in Melanesia, probably in New Guinea, from the indigenous strain Saccharum robustum. Sugarcane was then introduced into Indonesia and the farther reaches of the Pacific via the early Pacific islanders.
During the sixteenth century, Christopher Columbus brought sugarcane plants to the West Indies and eventually the indigenous strain evolved into Saccharum officinarum and other varieties of sugarcane. Today, four species of sugarcane are interbred to create the giant canes grown for commercial manufacturing and account for about 75 percent of the world’s sugar. Growing sugarcane plants was at one time a huge cash crop for areas of the Pacific but is now more often grown for bio-fuel in the American and Asian tropics. Growing sugarcanes in Brazil, the highest producer of sugarcane, is quite lucrative as a high proportion of fuel for cars and trucks there is ethanol processed from sugarcane plants. Unfortunately, growing sugarcanes has caused significant environmental damage to areas of grasslands and forests as sugarcane plant fields replace natural habitats. Growing sugarcanes encompasses about 200 countries which produce 1,324.6 million tons of refined sugar, six times that of sugar beet production. Growing sugarcanes is not solely produced for sugar and bio-fuel, however. Sugarcane plants are also grown for molasses, rum, soda and cachaca, Brazilian’s national spirit. The remnants of sugarcane post pressing are called bagasse and are useful as a source of burnable fuel for heat and electricity.
How to Grow Sugarcanes
To grow sugarcanes, one must reside in a tropical climate such as Hawaii, Florida and Louisiana. Sugarcane is grown in limited quantities in Texas and a few other Gulf Coast states as well. As sugarcanes are all hybrids, sugarcane planting is done using stalks garnered from a favorable species mother plant. These in turn sprout, creating clones which are genetically identical to the mother plant. Because the sugarcane plants are multi-species, using seeds for propagation would result in plants that differ from the mother plant; hence, vegetative propagation is utilized. Although interest in developing machinery to reduce labor costs has taken hold, generally speaking, hand planting takes place from late August to January.
Sugarcane Care
Sugarcane plant fields are replanted every two to four years. After the first year’s harvest, the second round of stalks, called a ratoon, begins to grow from the old. After each harvest of the sugarcane, the field is burned off until such time as production levels decline. At that time, the field will be plowed under and the ground prepared for a new crop of sugarcane plants. Sugarcane care is accomplished with cultivation and herbicides to control weeds in the plantation. Supplemental fertilization is often needed for optimal growth of the sugarcane plants. Water may occasionally be pumped from the field after heavy rains, and in turn, may be pumped back in during drier seasons.
Sugarcane Plant Info
A tropical grass native to Asia, sugarcane plants have been grown for over 4,000 years. Their first use was as a “chewing cane” in Melanesia, probably in New Guinea, from the indigenous strain Saccharum robustum. Sugarcane was then introduced into Indonesia and the farther reaches of the Pacific via the early Pacific islanders.
During the sixteenth century, Christopher Columbus brought sugarcane plants to the West Indies and eventually the indigenous strain evolved into Saccharum officinarum and other varieties of sugarcane. Today, four species of sugarcane are interbred to create the giant canes grown for commercial manufacturing and account for about 75 percent of the world’s sugar. Growing sugarcane plants was at one time a huge cash crop for areas of the Pacific but is now more often grown for bio-fuel in the American and Asian tropics. Growing sugarcanes in Brazil, the highest producer of sugarcane, is quite lucrative as a high proportion of fuel for cars and trucks there is ethanol processed from sugarcane plants. Unfortunately, growing sugarcanes has caused significant environmental damage to areas of grasslands and forests as sugarcane plant fields replace natural habitats. Growing sugarcanes encompasses about 200 countries which produce 1,324.6 million tons of refined sugar, six times that of sugar beet production. Growing sugarcanes is not solely produced for sugar and bio-fuel, however. Sugarcane plants are also grown for molasses, rum, soda and cachaca, Brazilian’s national spirit. The remnants of sugarcane post pressing are called bagasse and are useful as a source of burnable fuel for heat and electricity.
How to Grow Sugarcanes
To grow sugarcanes, one must reside in a tropical climate such as Hawaii, Florida and Louisiana. Sugarcane is grown in limited quantities in Texas and a few other Gulf Coast states as well. As sugarcanes are all hybrids, sugarcane planting is done using stalks garnered from a favorable species mother plant. These in turn sprout, creating clones which are genetically identical to the mother plant. Because the sugarcane plants are multi-species, using seeds for propagation would result in plants that differ from the mother plant; hence, vegetative propagation is utilized. Although interest in developing machinery to reduce labor costs has taken hold, generally speaking, hand planting takes place from late August to January.
Sugarcane Care
Sugarcane plant fields are replanted every two to four years. After the first year’s harvest, the second round of stalks, called a ratoon, begins to grow from the old. After each harvest of the sugarcane, the field is burned off until such time as production levels decline. At that time, the field will be plowed under and the ground prepared for a new crop of sugarcane plants. Sugarcane care is accomplished with cultivation and herbicides to control weeds in the plantation. Supplemental fertilization is often needed for optimal growth of the sugarcane plants. Water may occasionally be pumped from the field after heavy rains, and in turn, may be pumped back in during drier seasons.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Tangerine sage plants (Salvia elegans) are hardy perennial herbs that grow in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 through 10. In cooler climates, the plant is grown as an annual. Highly ornamental and relatively speedy, growing tangerine sage couldn’t be easier, as long as you meet the plant’s basic growing conditions. Read on find out how to grow tangerine sage.
Tangerine Sage Plant Info
Tangerine sage, also known as pineapple sage, is a member of the mint family. This is a good time to mention that although not as wildly invasive as many of its mint cousins, tangerine sage can be somewhat aggressive in certain conditions. If this is a concern, tangerine sage is easily grown in a large container. This is a good-sized plant, topping off at 3 to 5 feet at maturity, with a 2- to 3-foot spread. Butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to the red, trumpet-shaped flowers, which appear in late summer and autumn.
How to Grow Tangerine Sage
Plant tangerine sage in moderately rich, well-drained soil. Tangerine sage thrives in sunlight, but also tolerates partial shade. Allow plenty of space between plants, as crowding inhibits air circulation and may lead to disease. Water tangerine sage as needed to keep the soil moist after planting. Once the plants are established, they are relatively drought tolerant, but benefit from irrigation during dry weather. Feed tangerine sage plants with an all-purpose, time-release fertilizer at planting time, which should provide nutrients to last throughout the growing season. If you live in a warm climate, cut tangerine sage plants to the ground after blooming ends in autumn.
Is Tangerine Sage Edible?
Absolutely. In fact, this sage plant (as you may have guessed) has a delightful fruity, citrus-like aroma. It is frequently incorporated into herbal butter or fruit salads, or brewed into herbal tea, much like its minty cousins. Other uses for tangerine sage include dried flower arrangements, herbal wreaths and potpourri.
Tangerine Sage Plant Info
Tangerine sage, also known as pineapple sage, is a member of the mint family. This is a good time to mention that although not as wildly invasive as many of its mint cousins, tangerine sage can be somewhat aggressive in certain conditions. If this is a concern, tangerine sage is easily grown in a large container. This is a good-sized plant, topping off at 3 to 5 feet at maturity, with a 2- to 3-foot spread. Butterflies and hummingbirds are attracted to the red, trumpet-shaped flowers, which appear in late summer and autumn.
How to Grow Tangerine Sage
Plant tangerine sage in moderately rich, well-drained soil. Tangerine sage thrives in sunlight, but also tolerates partial shade. Allow plenty of space between plants, as crowding inhibits air circulation and may lead to disease. Water tangerine sage as needed to keep the soil moist after planting. Once the plants are established, they are relatively drought tolerant, but benefit from irrigation during dry weather. Feed tangerine sage plants with an all-purpose, time-release fertilizer at planting time, which should provide nutrients to last throughout the growing season. If you live in a warm climate, cut tangerine sage plants to the ground after blooming ends in autumn.
Is Tangerine Sage Edible?
Absolutely. In fact, this sage plant (as you may have guessed) has a delightful fruity, citrus-like aroma. It is frequently incorporated into herbal butter or fruit salads, or brewed into herbal tea, much like its minty cousins. Other uses for tangerine sage include dried flower arrangements, herbal wreaths and potpourri.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Growing sage (Salvia officinalis) in your garden can be rewarding, especially when it is time to cook a delicious dinner. Wondering how to grow sage? Planting sage is easy.
Choosing Edible Types of Sage Plant
There are many types of sage plant and not all of them are edible. When choosing a sage plant for your herb garden, choose one such as:
Garden Sage
Purple Sage
Tri-color Sage
Golden Sage
How to Grow Sage
The best place for planting sage is in full sun. Your sage plant should be put in a well draining soil, as sage does not like its roots to remain wet. Sage comes from hot, dry climate and will grow best in conditions like this.
Growing Sage from Seeds
Planting sage seeds requires patience, as sage seeds are slow to germinate. Scatter the seeds over seed starting soil and cover them with 1/8 inch of soil. Keep the soil damp but not soaked. Not all the seeds will germinate and the ones that do may take up to six weeks to germinate.
Growing Sage from Cuttings
More commonly, sage is grown from cuttings. In the spring, take softwood cuttings from a mature sage plant. Dip the cut tip of the cutting in rooting hormone, then insert into potting soil. Cover with clear plastic and keep in indirect sunlight until new growth appears on the cutting. At this time you can plant the sage out into your garden. Now that you know how to grow sage, there is no excuse not to add this delicious herb to your garden. It is a perennial herb that will reward your taste buds for many years after planting sage in your herb garden.
Choosing Edible Types of Sage Plant
There are many types of sage plant and not all of them are edible. When choosing a sage plant for your herb garden, choose one such as:
Garden Sage
Purple Sage
Tri-color Sage
Golden Sage
How to Grow Sage
The best place for planting sage is in full sun. Your sage plant should be put in a well draining soil, as sage does not like its roots to remain wet. Sage comes from hot, dry climate and will grow best in conditions like this.
Growing Sage from Seeds
Planting sage seeds requires patience, as sage seeds are slow to germinate. Scatter the seeds over seed starting soil and cover them with 1/8 inch of soil. Keep the soil damp but not soaked. Not all the seeds will germinate and the ones that do may take up to six weeks to germinate.
Growing Sage from Cuttings
More commonly, sage is grown from cuttings. In the spring, take softwood cuttings from a mature sage plant. Dip the cut tip of the cutting in rooting hormone, then insert into potting soil. Cover with clear plastic and keep in indirect sunlight until new growth appears on the cutting. At this time you can plant the sage out into your garden. Now that you know how to grow sage, there is no excuse not to add this delicious herb to your garden. It is a perennial herb that will reward your taste buds for many years after planting sage in your herb garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
If you like to grow unusual and interesting plants, or if you just like to learn about them, you may be reading this to learn about root beer plants (Piper auritum). If you’re wondering how is a root beer plant used, the answer is found below. A root beer plant growing in the garden provides an interesting fragrance and has a multitude of uses in the kitchen. A root beer plant, also known as Hoja Santa, holy leaf or Mexican pepperleaf, growing in the garden provides the aroma of root beer, and large, furry leaves in which to wrap foods and give them a hint of root beer flavor. An evergreen shrub or small tree in USDA zones 10 and 11, root beer plants are herbaceous perennials in USDA zones 8 and 9. Flowers of the root beer plant are not showy and sometimes not even noticeable. Root beer plants are primarily used as culinary ingredients, or in some areas, medicinal.
How Is a Root Beer Plant Used?
Native to Mexico, this plant has a diversity of uses. Leaves of the root beer plant are steamed and used as wraps in many native dishes. The leaves may also be chopped for use in cooking or salads. Info about root beer plants says they are also used medicinally as an aid to digestion and to calm colicky babies. The leaves are soaked in alcohol and used on women’s breasts to increase milk production. Other info says it is used for bronchitis and asthma. However, in the United States, the FDA banned its commercial use as root beer flavoring in the 1960’s, as it contains the oil safrole, which is known to be carcinogenic in animals.
Keeping this fact in mind, you may wish to grow it for the scent in the garden and not for culinary use. Some sources consider it to be toxic; other information disagrees. Caring for root beer plants is simple when the plant is grown in a warm area. Plant it in full sun to part shade, feed and water occasionally. Caring for root beer plants can be neglected without the loss of the plant, but the most attractive foliage results from proper care. The plant won’t survive in freezing temperatures. Now that you’ve learned about root beer plants, also called the Mexican pepperleaf, you may grow them in a scented garden for the wonderful fragrance.
How Is a Root Beer Plant Used?
Native to Mexico, this plant has a diversity of uses. Leaves of the root beer plant are steamed and used as wraps in many native dishes. The leaves may also be chopped for use in cooking or salads. Info about root beer plants says they are also used medicinally as an aid to digestion and to calm colicky babies. The leaves are soaked in alcohol and used on women’s breasts to increase milk production. Other info says it is used for bronchitis and asthma. However, in the United States, the FDA banned its commercial use as root beer flavoring in the 1960’s, as it contains the oil safrole, which is known to be carcinogenic in animals.
Keeping this fact in mind, you may wish to grow it for the scent in the garden and not for culinary use. Some sources consider it to be toxic; other information disagrees. Caring for root beer plants is simple when the plant is grown in a warm area. Plant it in full sun to part shade, feed and water occasionally. Caring for root beer plants can be neglected without the loss of the plant, but the most attractive foliage results from proper care. The plant won’t survive in freezing temperatures. Now that you’ve learned about root beer plants, also called the Mexican pepperleaf, you may grow them in a scented garden for the wonderful fragrance.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lovage plants (Levisticum officinale) grow like weeds. Fortunately, all parts of the lovage herb are usable and delicious. The plant is used in any recipe that calls for parsley or celery. It has a high salt content, so a little will go a long way but the stalks and stems are best used in carbohydrate-based dishes such as pasta and potato recipes.
Lovage Herb Uses
All parts of the herb are useable. The leaves are added to salads; the root is dug up at the end of the season and used as a vegetable. Stems can replace celery and the flower yields an aromatic oil. Interestingly, the lovage herb is a commonly used flavoring for confectionaries. You can use seeds and stems in candy making. The seeds are a common ingredient in flavored oils and vinegars, which steep in the liquid, releasing their flavor over time. Lovage herb is most commonly used in Europe where it flavors foods in Germany and Italy.
How to Grow Lovage
Lovage looks a bit like celery but is in the carrot family. The plants may grow up to 6 feet and bears lacy thick green foliage. The flowers are yellow and held in umbrella-shaped umbels. They grow 36 to 72 inches with a 32-inch spread. The base of the plant is comprised of thick, celery-like stems with glossy green leaves that decrease in number as you move up the stalk. The yellow flowers are arranged in umbel type clusters, which produce seeds 1/2 inch long. Sun and well-drained soils are the key to growing lovage. Growing lovage requires soil with a pH of 6.5 and sandy, loamy soils. Lovage plants are hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 4. Determining when to plant lovage is the first step in growing the herb. Direct sow lovage seed indoors five to six weeks before the date of the last frost. Sow seed on the surface of soil and dust with sand. The seeds may also be sown outside in late spring when soil temperatures have warmed to 60 degrees F. (16 C.).
Seedlings require consistent moisture until they are several inches tall and then irrigation may diminish. Transplant lovage plants 8 inches apart in rows 18 inches away from each other. Lovage will bloom earlier when planted indoors. You can expect flowers on transplanted plants in early summer that last until late summer. Leaf miners seem to be the primary pest of the plant and will damage the leaves with their feeding activity. Harvest lovage leaves at any time and dig out the root in autumn. Seeds will arrive late in summer or early spring and the stems are best when eaten young. Lovage has a reputation as a good companion plant for potatoes and other tubers and root crops. Food crops should be arranged in the vegetable garden to form the best alliances and make their growth better and healthier.
Lovage Herb Uses
All parts of the herb are useable. The leaves are added to salads; the root is dug up at the end of the season and used as a vegetable. Stems can replace celery and the flower yields an aromatic oil. Interestingly, the lovage herb is a commonly used flavoring for confectionaries. You can use seeds and stems in candy making. The seeds are a common ingredient in flavored oils and vinegars, which steep in the liquid, releasing their flavor over time. Lovage herb is most commonly used in Europe where it flavors foods in Germany and Italy.
How to Grow Lovage
Lovage looks a bit like celery but is in the carrot family. The plants may grow up to 6 feet and bears lacy thick green foliage. The flowers are yellow and held in umbrella-shaped umbels. They grow 36 to 72 inches with a 32-inch spread. The base of the plant is comprised of thick, celery-like stems with glossy green leaves that decrease in number as you move up the stalk. The yellow flowers are arranged in umbel type clusters, which produce seeds 1/2 inch long. Sun and well-drained soils are the key to growing lovage. Growing lovage requires soil with a pH of 6.5 and sandy, loamy soils. Lovage plants are hardy to USDA plant hardiness zone 4. Determining when to plant lovage is the first step in growing the herb. Direct sow lovage seed indoors five to six weeks before the date of the last frost. Sow seed on the surface of soil and dust with sand. The seeds may also be sown outside in late spring when soil temperatures have warmed to 60 degrees F. (16 C.).
Seedlings require consistent moisture until they are several inches tall and then irrigation may diminish. Transplant lovage plants 8 inches apart in rows 18 inches away from each other. Lovage will bloom earlier when planted indoors. You can expect flowers on transplanted plants in early summer that last until late summer. Leaf miners seem to be the primary pest of the plant and will damage the leaves with their feeding activity. Harvest lovage leaves at any time and dig out the root in autumn. Seeds will arrive late in summer or early spring and the stems are best when eaten young. Lovage has a reputation as a good companion plant for potatoes and other tubers and root crops. Food crops should be arranged in the vegetable garden to form the best alliances and make their growth better and healthier.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) is a commonly grown herb. Both its stalk and foliage are used in many prepared dishes such as teas, soups and sauces. While it is easy to grow and care for, some people are not sure about when or how to go about picking lemongrass. In fact, lemongrass harvesting is easy and can be done nearly anytime or year round when grown indoors.
Harvesting Lemongrass
Lemongrass is commonly used to add flavor and aroma to food. However, it is typically the stalk which is most often utilized and edible. Since the stalks are somewhat hard, they’re normally crushed in order to allow the lemony flavor to come through when cooking. Only the tender part inside is considered edible, so once it’s cooked, it can be sliced and added to various dishes. This tender portion also tends to be located towards the bottom of the stalk.
How to Harvest Lemongrass
Harvesting lemongrass is simple. While you can harvest lemongrass pretty much at any time throughout its growing season, in cooler regions, it is normally harvested towards the end of the season, just before the first frost. Indoor plants can be harvested throughout the year.
Keeping in mind that the most edible part is near the bottom of the stalk; this is where you’ll want to snap or cut off your lemongrass. Begin with older stalks first and look for those that are anywhere between ¼- to ½-inch thick. Then either snap it off as close to the roots as possible or cut the stalk at ground level. You can also twist and pull the stalk. Don’t worry if you wind up with some of the bulb or roots.
After you have harvested your lemongrass stalks, remove and discard the woody portions, as well as the foliage (unless you intend on using and drying the leaves for teas or soups). While most people pick lemongrass to use right away, it can be frozen for up to six months if needed. Now that you know a little more about lemongrass harvesting, you can pick this interesting and tasty herb to use for your own cooking.
Harvesting Lemongrass
Lemongrass is commonly used to add flavor and aroma to food. However, it is typically the stalk which is most often utilized and edible. Since the stalks are somewhat hard, they’re normally crushed in order to allow the lemony flavor to come through when cooking. Only the tender part inside is considered edible, so once it’s cooked, it can be sliced and added to various dishes. This tender portion also tends to be located towards the bottom of the stalk.
How to Harvest Lemongrass
Harvesting lemongrass is simple. While you can harvest lemongrass pretty much at any time throughout its growing season, in cooler regions, it is normally harvested towards the end of the season, just before the first frost. Indoor plants can be harvested throughout the year.
Keeping in mind that the most edible part is near the bottom of the stalk; this is where you’ll want to snap or cut off your lemongrass. Begin with older stalks first and look for those that are anywhere between ¼- to ½-inch thick. Then either snap it off as close to the roots as possible or cut the stalk at ground level. You can also twist and pull the stalk. Don’t worry if you wind up with some of the bulb or roots.
After you have harvested your lemongrass stalks, remove and discard the woody portions, as well as the foliage (unless you intend on using and drying the leaves for teas or soups). While most people pick lemongrass to use right away, it can be frozen for up to six months if needed. Now that you know a little more about lemongrass harvesting, you can pick this interesting and tasty herb to use for your own cooking.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemongrass is a popular plant to grow for its culinary possibilities. A common ingredient in Southeast Asian cuisine, it’s very easy to grow at home. And what’s more, you don’t even have to grow it from seed or buy plants at a nursery. Lemongrass propagates with a very high success rate from the cuttings you can buy at the grocery store. Keep reading to learn more about propagating a lemongrass plant and regrowing lemongrass plants in water.
Lemongrass Propagation in Water
Propagating a lemongrass plant is as easy as placing the stalks in a glass of water and hoping for the best. Lemongrass can be found in most Asian grocery stores as well as some larger supermarkets. When buying lemongrass for propagation, pick stalks that have as much of the bottom bulb still intact. There’s a chance there may be some roots still attached – and this is even better.
Rooting Lemongrass in Water
To encourage your lemongrass stalks to grow new roots, place them bulb down in a jar with an inch of water in the bottom. Rooting lemongrass in water may take as long as three weeks. Over the course of that time, the tops of the stalks should start to grow new leaves, and the bottoms of the bulbs should start to sprout new roots.
To prevent the growth of fungus, change the water in the jar every day or two. After two or three weeks, your lemongrass roots should be an inch or two long. Now you can transplant them to your garden or a container of rich, loamy soil. Lemongrass prefers full sun. It can’t tolerate frost, so if you experience cold winters, you’ll either have to grow it in a container or treat it as an outdoor annual.
Lemongrass Propagation in Water
Propagating a lemongrass plant is as easy as placing the stalks in a glass of water and hoping for the best. Lemongrass can be found in most Asian grocery stores as well as some larger supermarkets. When buying lemongrass for propagation, pick stalks that have as much of the bottom bulb still intact. There’s a chance there may be some roots still attached – and this is even better.
Rooting Lemongrass in Water
To encourage your lemongrass stalks to grow new roots, place them bulb down in a jar with an inch of water in the bottom. Rooting lemongrass in water may take as long as three weeks. Over the course of that time, the tops of the stalks should start to grow new leaves, and the bottoms of the bulbs should start to sprout new roots.
To prevent the growth of fungus, change the water in the jar every day or two. After two or three weeks, your lemongrass roots should be an inch or two long. Now you can transplant them to your garden or a container of rich, loamy soil. Lemongrass prefers full sun. It can’t tolerate frost, so if you experience cold winters, you’ll either have to grow it in a container or treat it as an outdoor annual.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemongrass is a delicious citrus scented grass that is used in many Asian dishes. It also makes a lovely, easy to grow addition to the garden. Easy to grow it may be, but not without issues. I recently notice that my lemongrass is turning brown. The question is, WHY is my lemongrass turning brown? Let’s find out.
Help, My Lemongrass Leaves are Brown!
Like me, you’re probably asking “Why is my lemongrass turning brown?”
Insufficient watering/fertilizing
The most obvious reason for a lemongrass plant turning brown would be lack of water and/or nutrients. Lemongrass is native to areas with regular rainfall and high humidity so they may need more water in the home garden than other plants. Water and mist the plants regularly. To keep other plants nearby from getting drowned out by the frequent watering, plant the lemongrass in a bottomless container buried in the soil. Lemongrass also needs lots of nitrogen, so fertilize the plants with a balanced soluble fertilizer once a month.
Fungal diseases
Still have brown leaves on lemongrass? If a lemongrass plant is turning brown and water has been ruled out as the culprit, it might be a disease. Brown leaves on lemongrass might be a symptom of rust (Puccinia nakanishikii), a fungal disease that was first reported in Hawaii in 1985. In the case of rust infection, lemongrass leaves are not only brown, but there will be light yellow spots on the foliage with streaks of brown and dark brown pustules on the undersides of leaves. Severe infection may result in the death of leaves and eventually plants.
Rust spores survive on lemongrass debris on the ground and is then spread by wind, rain, and water splashing. It is most common in areas of high rainfall, high humidity, and warm temperatures. So, despite the fact that lemongrass thrives in such areas, obviously there can be too much of a good thing. To manage rust, promote healthy plants by using mulch and fertilize regularly, prune out any diseased leaves and avoid overhead irrigation. Also, don’t space the lemongrass too close together, which will only encourage transmission of the disease. Brown leaves on lemongrass may also mean leaf blight. Leaf blight’s symptoms are reddish brown spots on leaf tips and margins. The leaves actually look like they are desiccating. In the case of leaf blight, fungicides may be applied and also prune out any infected leaves.
Help, My Lemongrass Leaves are Brown!
Like me, you’re probably asking “Why is my lemongrass turning brown?”
Insufficient watering/fertilizing
The most obvious reason for a lemongrass plant turning brown would be lack of water and/or nutrients. Lemongrass is native to areas with regular rainfall and high humidity so they may need more water in the home garden than other plants. Water and mist the plants regularly. To keep other plants nearby from getting drowned out by the frequent watering, plant the lemongrass in a bottomless container buried in the soil. Lemongrass also needs lots of nitrogen, so fertilize the plants with a balanced soluble fertilizer once a month.
Fungal diseases
Still have brown leaves on lemongrass? If a lemongrass plant is turning brown and water has been ruled out as the culprit, it might be a disease. Brown leaves on lemongrass might be a symptom of rust (Puccinia nakanishikii), a fungal disease that was first reported in Hawaii in 1985. In the case of rust infection, lemongrass leaves are not only brown, but there will be light yellow spots on the foliage with streaks of brown and dark brown pustules on the undersides of leaves. Severe infection may result in the death of leaves and eventually plants.
Rust spores survive on lemongrass debris on the ground and is then spread by wind, rain, and water splashing. It is most common in areas of high rainfall, high humidity, and warm temperatures. So, despite the fact that lemongrass thrives in such areas, obviously there can be too much of a good thing. To manage rust, promote healthy plants by using mulch and fertilize regularly, prune out any diseased leaves and avoid overhead irrigation. Also, don’t space the lemongrass too close together, which will only encourage transmission of the disease. Brown leaves on lemongrass may also mean leaf blight. Leaf blight’s symptoms are reddish brown spots on leaf tips and margins. The leaves actually look like they are desiccating. In the case of leaf blight, fungicides may be applied and also prune out any infected leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
If you like using the lemongrass herb (Cymbopogon citratus) in your soups and seafood dishes, you may have found that it’s not always readily available in your local grocery store. You may have wondered how to grow lemongrass on your own. You can grow your own lemongrass plants, and in fact, growing lemongrass and propagating lemongrass is not all the difficult and you don’t have to have a great green thumb. Let’s take a look at how to grow lemongrass.
How Do I Grow Lemongrass?
When you go to the grocery store, find the freshest lemongrass plants you can buy. When you get home, trim a couple of inches off the top of the lemongrass plants and peel away anything that looks somewhat dead. Take the stalks and put them into a glass of shallow water and place it near a sunny window. After a few weeks, you should start seeing tiny roots at the bottom of the lemongrass herb stalk. It’s not much different than starting any other plant in a glass of water. Wait for the roots to mature a little more and then you can transfer the lemongrass herb to a pot of soil.
Growing lemongrass is as simple as taking your started plant out of the water and putting the rooted stalks into a pot containing all-purpose soil, with the crown just below the surface. Put this pot of lemongrass plants in a warm, sunny spot on a window ledge or out on your patio. Water it regularly. If you live in a warm climate, you can plant your lemongrass plants out in the backyard in a bog or pond. Of course, growing the plant indoors is nice for having easy access to the fresh plant whenever you need it.
Propagating Lemongrass
Propagating lemongrass is just as easy as starting new plants from store-bought lemongrass herb. Again, take a couple of inches off the top of the grown plant and place them in water in a glass on a window sill. Wait a few weeks and you will once again have a lemongrass herb ready for planting.
How Do I Grow Lemongrass?
When you go to the grocery store, find the freshest lemongrass plants you can buy. When you get home, trim a couple of inches off the top of the lemongrass plants and peel away anything that looks somewhat dead. Take the stalks and put them into a glass of shallow water and place it near a sunny window. After a few weeks, you should start seeing tiny roots at the bottom of the lemongrass herb stalk. It’s not much different than starting any other plant in a glass of water. Wait for the roots to mature a little more and then you can transfer the lemongrass herb to a pot of soil.
Growing lemongrass is as simple as taking your started plant out of the water and putting the rooted stalks into a pot containing all-purpose soil, with the crown just below the surface. Put this pot of lemongrass plants in a warm, sunny spot on a window ledge or out on your patio. Water it regularly. If you live in a warm climate, you can plant your lemongrass plants out in the backyard in a bog or pond. Of course, growing the plant indoors is nice for having easy access to the fresh plant whenever you need it.
Propagating Lemongrass
Propagating lemongrass is just as easy as starting new plants from store-bought lemongrass herb. Again, take a couple of inches off the top of the grown plant and place them in water in a glass on a window sill. Wait a few weeks and you will once again have a lemongrass herb ready for planting.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemon balm is easy to grow and provides a pleasant, lemony flavor and aroma for hot dishes, tea or cold drinks. It’s hard to imagine that such a lovely plant could cause so many problems, but this member of the mint family is super-prolific and can wear out its welcome in a hurry.
How to Prevent Lemon Balm Weeds
A weed is defined as any plant that grows where you don’t want it, and lemon balm proves the point. This dainty little plant that looks so innocent when you buy it at the garden center can reach a height of 2 feet and a spread of 3 feet by the end of the first growing season. Worse yet, the plant self-seeds itself like a champ and before you know it, you have a garden full of more lemon balm than you ever wanted — or needed. The most effective way to keep lemon balm in bounds is to prevent the plant from going to seed. One way to accomplish this is to shear the plant two or three times every year so it doesn’t bloom. Don’t worry; cutting the plant back won’t hurt it. If the plant blooms, snip off the flowers before they have a chance to go to seed. Even one bloom can contain a tremendous number of seeds.
Getting Rid of Lemon Balm
If the plant has already gone to seed and taken over your garden, removing the plant by hand is usually the best recourse. Be sure the ground is slightly damp so you can pull entire plants, along with the roots and runners (stolons). If you leave roots or stolons in the ground, the plants will return with a vengeance. You may want to loosen the soil with a garden fork to make weeding easier if the ground is hard. One weeding may not be enough for complete lemon balm control. Keep an eye on problem areas and pull the small shoots as soon as they appear. Controlling lemon balm plants requires persistence.
How to Prevent Lemon Balm Weeds
A weed is defined as any plant that grows where you don’t want it, and lemon balm proves the point. This dainty little plant that looks so innocent when you buy it at the garden center can reach a height of 2 feet and a spread of 3 feet by the end of the first growing season. Worse yet, the plant self-seeds itself like a champ and before you know it, you have a garden full of more lemon balm than you ever wanted — or needed. The most effective way to keep lemon balm in bounds is to prevent the plant from going to seed. One way to accomplish this is to shear the plant two or three times every year so it doesn’t bloom. Don’t worry; cutting the plant back won’t hurt it. If the plant blooms, snip off the flowers before they have a chance to go to seed. Even one bloom can contain a tremendous number of seeds.
Getting Rid of Lemon Balm
If the plant has already gone to seed and taken over your garden, removing the plant by hand is usually the best recourse. Be sure the ground is slightly damp so you can pull entire plants, along with the roots and runners (stolons). If you leave roots or stolons in the ground, the plants will return with a vengeance. You may want to loosen the soil with a garden fork to make weeding easier if the ground is hard. One weeding may not be enough for complete lemon balm control. Keep an eye on problem areas and pull the small shoots as soon as they appear. Controlling lemon balm plants requires persistence.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis) is a rambunctious plant with attractive, heart-shaped leaves and a delicate lemony aroma. A member of the mint family, lemon balm is easy to grow, even for newbie gardeners. If you’re wondering what to plant with lemon balm, read on for a few suggestions to get you started.
Lemon Balm Companion Planting
Lemon balm companion planting is a real boon in the garden, as this perennial herb attracts bees and other beneficial pollinators, while the strong, citrusy odor deters several unwelcome pests, including gnats and mosquitoes. Some gardeners even claim that lemon balm helps keep weeds in check. Finding companion plants for lemon balm is easy, because there are really no bad lemon balm companions! However, companions for lemon balm should be plants that thrive in the same growing conditions – rich, moist, well-drained soil and full sun or light shade.
What to Plant with Lemon Balm
Most herbs, fruits and vegetables make great lemon balm companions, including the following:
Winter and summer squash
Melons
Tomatoes
All members of the cabbage family (kale, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, etc.)
Apples
Kiwi
Onions
Fennel
Basil
Rosemary
Sage
Nearly any blooming plant pairs well with lemon balm, but if you’re hoping to attract pollinators, good lemon balm companions include other nectar-rich plants such as:
Cosmos
Zinnias
Lupine
Poppies
Allium
Four o’clock
Rudbeckia
Echinacea
Sweet peas
Bee balm
Chamomile
Hyssop
Borage
If your goal is to deter pests, worthy companions for lemon balm are:
Marigolds
Geraniums
Daisies
Asters
Sunflowers
Nasturtiums
Petunias
Lavender
Dill
Mint
Chives
Parsley
Lemon Balm Companion Planting
Lemon balm companion planting is a real boon in the garden, as this perennial herb attracts bees and other beneficial pollinators, while the strong, citrusy odor deters several unwelcome pests, including gnats and mosquitoes. Some gardeners even claim that lemon balm helps keep weeds in check. Finding companion plants for lemon balm is easy, because there are really no bad lemon balm companions! However, companions for lemon balm should be plants that thrive in the same growing conditions – rich, moist, well-drained soil and full sun or light shade.
What to Plant with Lemon Balm
Most herbs, fruits and vegetables make great lemon balm companions, including the following:
Winter and summer squash
Melons
Tomatoes
All members of the cabbage family (kale, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, etc.)
Apples
Kiwi
Onions
Fennel
Basil
Rosemary
Sage
Nearly any blooming plant pairs well with lemon balm, but if you’re hoping to attract pollinators, good lemon balm companions include other nectar-rich plants such as:
Cosmos
Zinnias
Lupine
Poppies
Allium
Four o’clock
Rudbeckia
Echinacea
Sweet peas
Bee balm
Chamomile
Hyssop
Borage
If your goal is to deter pests, worthy companions for lemon balm are:
Marigolds
Geraniums
Daisies
Asters
Sunflowers
Nasturtiums
Petunias
Lavender
Dill
Mint
Chives
Parsley
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
There are a number of reasons to grow your own produce. Maybe you want to have control of how your food is grown, organically, with no chemicals. Or maybe you find it less expensive to grow your own fruits and veggies. Even if you have a metaphorical black thumb, the following article fulfills all three topics. How about regrowing garlic chives? Growing garlic chives in water without soil really couldn’t be easier. Read on to find out how to regrow garlic chives.
How to Regrow Garlic Chives
Growing garlic chives in water couldn’t be simpler. Simply take an unpeeled garlic clove and plunk it in a shallow glass or dish. Cover the clove partially with water. Don’t submerge the entire clove or it will rot. If you select organically grown garlic, then you will be regrowing organic garlic chives. This can save you a bunch of money since organics can be pricey.
Also, if you happen upon an old bit of garlic, often the cloves have begun to sprout. Don’t throw them out. Put them in a bit of water as above and, in no time, you will have delicious garlic scapes. Roots will be seen growing in a few days and shoots soon thereafter. Growing garlic chives without soil is that easy! Once green stems have formed, you can use the garlic chives. Just snip the green ends as needed to add to eggs, as a tasty garnish, or in anything you want a kick of mild garlic flavor.
How to Regrow Garlic Chives
Growing garlic chives in water couldn’t be simpler. Simply take an unpeeled garlic clove and plunk it in a shallow glass or dish. Cover the clove partially with water. Don’t submerge the entire clove or it will rot. If you select organically grown garlic, then you will be regrowing organic garlic chives. This can save you a bunch of money since organics can be pricey.
Also, if you happen upon an old bit of garlic, often the cloves have begun to sprout. Don’t throw them out. Put them in a bit of water as above and, in no time, you will have delicious garlic scapes. Roots will be seen growing in a few days and shoots soon thereafter. Growing garlic chives without soil is that easy! Once green stems have formed, you can use the garlic chives. Just snip the green ends as needed to add to eggs, as a tasty garnish, or in anything you want a kick of mild garlic flavor.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
Dill is an easy to grow herb cultivated for culinary purposes. While dill is an annual, it readily self-sows and will generally make a return the successive spring. Every part of dill, the stems, leaves, flowers and even the seeds are edible. So what special care does dill need, if any? Should you prune dill? If so, does it make for more bushy herb plants? Keep reading to find out if you should prune dill and, if so, how to trim a dill plant.
How to Make Dill Plants Bushy
Dill (Anethum graveolens), by nature, is delicate with lacy frond-like leaves that can grow up to 2-3 feet in height. For this reason, it may need staking, especially when planted alone in the garden. Groupings of dill plants, however, hold each other up and don’t require staking. If you have grown herbs before, then you are familiar with pinching them back, either as you use them in recipes or to pinch back flowers. You’re probably also familiar then with the fact that pinching back herbs often results in bushy herb plants. Does this work with dill? Is cutting back dill plants how to make dill plants bushy?
How to Trim a Dill Plant
You can grow your own dill by sowing the seeds straight into the garden after the last frost free date for your area. Cover the seeds with ¼ inch of soil. Because dill is such a feathery herb, it can be grown close together and, in fact, as mentioned above, will benefit from this mutual support. Don’t plant dill near its cousins fennel and coriander, as they will cross-pollinate, resulting in hybrid seeds that won’t have a true flavor. Dill attracts both ladybugs and lacewings, which at first you might not think is such a good thing. A plant that attracts insects? Ladybugs and lacewing larvae, however, like to eat aphids, so planting dill near your other herbs and veggies can act as a natural pesticide. Once dill is established, it is a fuss free plant. It has long roots, which minimizes the amount of watering you need to attend to. Also, dill needs no additional fertilizer. Keep the area around the dill free of weeds, especially during the first month of growth.
Otherwise, the only chore needed is cutting back the dill plants. There is no great mystery here; simply use kitchen shears to snip off the dill leaves and add them to your latest culinary creation. You can begin using dill a few weeks after seeding. Pinch out the top buds on the dill to keep the plant from getting too leggy or tall. This will make for a bushier plant by encouraging additional leaf growth. Collect dill seed after the plants have flowered and the blossoms are dry. Once the plant has gone to seed, it won’t produce any more leaves, which is another good reason to pinch the top buds and lengthen the harvesting season. Fresh dill can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. You can also dry the leaves and seeds and store them in an airtight container for several months. Dill leaves can be frozen too, but the flavor is much diminished.
How to Make Dill Plants Bushy
Dill (Anethum graveolens), by nature, is delicate with lacy frond-like leaves that can grow up to 2-3 feet in height. For this reason, it may need staking, especially when planted alone in the garden. Groupings of dill plants, however, hold each other up and don’t require staking. If you have grown herbs before, then you are familiar with pinching them back, either as you use them in recipes or to pinch back flowers. You’re probably also familiar then with the fact that pinching back herbs often results in bushy herb plants. Does this work with dill? Is cutting back dill plants how to make dill plants bushy?
How to Trim a Dill Plant
You can grow your own dill by sowing the seeds straight into the garden after the last frost free date for your area. Cover the seeds with ¼ inch of soil. Because dill is such a feathery herb, it can be grown close together and, in fact, as mentioned above, will benefit from this mutual support. Don’t plant dill near its cousins fennel and coriander, as they will cross-pollinate, resulting in hybrid seeds that won’t have a true flavor. Dill attracts both ladybugs and lacewings, which at first you might not think is such a good thing. A plant that attracts insects? Ladybugs and lacewing larvae, however, like to eat aphids, so planting dill near your other herbs and veggies can act as a natural pesticide. Once dill is established, it is a fuss free plant. It has long roots, which minimizes the amount of watering you need to attend to. Also, dill needs no additional fertilizer. Keep the area around the dill free of weeds, especially during the first month of growth.
Otherwise, the only chore needed is cutting back the dill plants. There is no great mystery here; simply use kitchen shears to snip off the dill leaves and add them to your latest culinary creation. You can begin using dill a few weeks after seeding. Pinch out the top buds on the dill to keep the plant from getting too leggy or tall. This will make for a bushier plant by encouraging additional leaf growth. Collect dill seed after the plants have flowered and the blossoms are dry. Once the plant has gone to seed, it won’t produce any more leaves, which is another good reason to pinch the top buds and lengthen the harvesting season. Fresh dill can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 months. You can also dry the leaves and seeds and store them in an airtight container for several months. Dill leaves can be frozen too, but the flavor is much diminished.
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