文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
When it comes to French vs. English lavender there are some important differences. Not every lavender plant is the same, although they are all great to grow in the garden or as houseplants. Know the differences between these popular types to choose the best one for your conditions and needs.
Are English and French Lavender Different?
They are related, but different types of lavender. French lavender is Lavendula dentata and it is not actually that commonly cultivated, although we often think of France when picturing fields of lavender. English lavender is Lavendula angustifolia. This variety is much more commonly cultivated and is typical in gardens and containers. Here are some other important differences:
Hardiness. A big difference between French and English lavender is that the latter is much hardier. French lavender is only hardy through about zone 8 and won’t tolerate cold winters. Size. French lavender is large and will grow from about two to three feet (.5 to 1 meter) tall and wide, while English lavender stays much smaller and more compact, although it may grow up to two feet. Bloom time. The flowers on these plants are similar in size, but they last much longer on French lavender. This variety has one of the longest bloom times, starting in spring and continuing to produce flowers throughout the summer. Scent. If you’re looking for the characteristic lavender smell, choose English lavender. It produces the strong scent that permeates the air, while French lavender has a much lighter scent, which while nice, is more reminiscent of rosemary.
Other Types of Lavender
French and English are just two of many varieties of this popular plant. You’ll also see Spanish lavender, which like French lavender, has a softer scent and is used more for landscaping than for producing the scented oil. Lavandin is a hybrid cultivar that was developed to produce even more oil than English lavender, so it has a very potent aroma. French and English lavender varieties are both great plants, but they are not the same. Along with the other types of lavender, you have plenty of options to choose the right variety for your home or garden.
Are English and French Lavender Different?
They are related, but different types of lavender. French lavender is Lavendula dentata and it is not actually that commonly cultivated, although we often think of France when picturing fields of lavender. English lavender is Lavendula angustifolia. This variety is much more commonly cultivated and is typical in gardens and containers. Here are some other important differences:
Hardiness. A big difference between French and English lavender is that the latter is much hardier. French lavender is only hardy through about zone 8 and won’t tolerate cold winters. Size. French lavender is large and will grow from about two to three feet (.5 to 1 meter) tall and wide, while English lavender stays much smaller and more compact, although it may grow up to two feet. Bloom time. The flowers on these plants are similar in size, but they last much longer on French lavender. This variety has one of the longest bloom times, starting in spring and continuing to produce flowers throughout the summer. Scent. If you’re looking for the characteristic lavender smell, choose English lavender. It produces the strong scent that permeates the air, while French lavender has a much lighter scent, which while nice, is more reminiscent of rosemary.
Other Types of Lavender
French and English are just two of many varieties of this popular plant. You’ll also see Spanish lavender, which like French lavender, has a softer scent and is used more for landscaping than for producing the scented oil. Lavandin is a hybrid cultivar that was developed to produce even more oil than English lavender, so it has a very potent aroma. French and English lavender varieties are both great plants, but they are not the same. Along with the other types of lavender, you have plenty of options to choose the right variety for your home or garden.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Horseradish is a plant that can grow anywhere once started. This trait makes it both an easy to grow herb and an unwanted invasive that leaves gardeners wondering how to eliminate horseradish plants. When it comes to trying to get rid of horseradish, most people have difficulty doing so because of its hardiness. Keep reading to learn more about how to kill horseradish plants or to simply control them.
Tips for Controlling Horseradish
If you have had difficulty controlling horseradish, there are a few things to remember. First of all, horseradish is one of those plants that grows from cultivars. This means that the smallest piece of root can yield plants. Controlling horseradish is difficult because of this hardy trait.
Basically, controlling horseradish is best done by digging up as much of the plant as possible, including the roots, every year. By doing this, you can eliminate some of the plants, and make a good attempt at keeping these plants in the area you want it located instead of allowing it to spread. One way to keep your horseradish under control is to prepare the area before you even plant it. Sometimes using a large barrel or bucket underground to plant the roots in will help to keep the horseradish reined into one area of your yard or garden. Controlling horseradish is easier than killing it, so preparation before planting is probably the best control chance you will get.
How to Kill Horseradish Plants
When you are thinking about killing horseradish plants, your best bet is to dig them up as much as possible first. There is no chemical or natural agent that will kill the plant completely if it is growing wildly. Killing horseradish plants isn’t difficult, but it is tedious because you have to keep up on it. If you are trying to eliminate horseradish plants, you should realize that digging up the roots is the best way to eliminate as much as possible. Once you do that, you can wait and see what grows and use a chemical or natural weed killing agent on the area to kill off the rest. This process will need to be repeated until the plant does not come back. Instead of killing horseradish, consider camouflaging it. Depending on how large a patch of plants you have, eliminating horseradish is best done by just mowing over the area and planting some grass seed among the mowed plants. This way, the plant isn’t eliminated, but it is controlled and it should stop spreading if you keep it mowed.
Eliminating horseradish can be done, but be aware that if you want to get rid of horseradish, you’ll probably have to do a lot of work. This includes digging, chopping, cutting and spraying. One final note on how to kill horseradish plants: do not try using a rototiller to eliminate horseradish plants. Rototilling doesn’t work because it just makes a whole bunch of root pieces in the ground; each makes a new plant and makes it easier for the horseradish to spread.
Tips for Controlling Horseradish
If you have had difficulty controlling horseradish, there are a few things to remember. First of all, horseradish is one of those plants that grows from cultivars. This means that the smallest piece of root can yield plants. Controlling horseradish is difficult because of this hardy trait.
Basically, controlling horseradish is best done by digging up as much of the plant as possible, including the roots, every year. By doing this, you can eliminate some of the plants, and make a good attempt at keeping these plants in the area you want it located instead of allowing it to spread. One way to keep your horseradish under control is to prepare the area before you even plant it. Sometimes using a large barrel or bucket underground to plant the roots in will help to keep the horseradish reined into one area of your yard or garden. Controlling horseradish is easier than killing it, so preparation before planting is probably the best control chance you will get.
How to Kill Horseradish Plants
When you are thinking about killing horseradish plants, your best bet is to dig them up as much as possible first. There is no chemical or natural agent that will kill the plant completely if it is growing wildly. Killing horseradish plants isn’t difficult, but it is tedious because you have to keep up on it. If you are trying to eliminate horseradish plants, you should realize that digging up the roots is the best way to eliminate as much as possible. Once you do that, you can wait and see what grows and use a chemical or natural weed killing agent on the area to kill off the rest. This process will need to be repeated until the plant does not come back. Instead of killing horseradish, consider camouflaging it. Depending on how large a patch of plants you have, eliminating horseradish is best done by just mowing over the area and planting some grass seed among the mowed plants. This way, the plant isn’t eliminated, but it is controlled and it should stop spreading if you keep it mowed.
Eliminating horseradish can be done, but be aware that if you want to get rid of horseradish, you’ll probably have to do a lot of work. This includes digging, chopping, cutting and spraying. One final note on how to kill horseradish plants: do not try using a rototiller to eliminate horseradish plants. Rototilling doesn’t work because it just makes a whole bunch of root pieces in the ground; each makes a new plant and makes it easier for the horseradish to spread.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Fresh horseradish is absolutely delicious and the good news is it’s easy to grow your own. Horseradish is said to have many health benefits and also contains oil called isothiocyanate that has antibacterial and antifungal qualities. This makes me think that companion plants for horseradish might get a huge benefit. Read on to find out about companion planting with horseradish and what grows well with horseradish.
Companion Planting with Horseradish
Companion planting is a method of planting two or more plants that have a symbiotic relationship; that is, they mutually benefit one another is some way. Most plants benefit from this practice and planting companions for horseradish is no exception. As mentioned, horseradish contains oil that helps to curb fungal and microbial movement. While it doesn’t prevent infection, it can curtail it which makes horseradish a boon to many other plants, but what are companions for horseradish?
What Grows Well with Horseradish?
Horseradish not only helps ward off diseases, but it makes an excellent insect repellent. For this reason, potatoes and horseradish grow very well together. Horseradish repels:
Potato bugs
Potato beetles
Aphids
Blister beetles
Whiteflies
Some caterpillars
If you decide to try this particular horseradish plant companion combo, be advised that horseradish spreads rapidly and is easily propagated from even the tiniest bit of root left in the ground. So plant it at the corners of the potato patch or, better yet, in pots near the patch.
Fruit trees and brambles also make good horseradish plant companions; plant horseradish at the base of small fruit trees or in amongst berries or grapes to get the benefits of its insect repellent qualities. The root is also said to deter birds and small rodents, like moles and field mice, from eating up all the fruit. The same cannot be said of squirrels, however, but (in my experience) nothing deters a determined squirrel. Sweet potatoes, strawberries, asparagus and rhubarb are all said to make wonderful horseradish plant companions. Again, in every instance, the companion plants seem to get all the benefits from the horseradish. That’s okay, plant it anyway. Horseradish has numerous health benefits for humans too. It is a cancer fighting cruciferous, high in vitamin C, can be used as a gastric stimulant or a topical pain reliever, and don’t forget its antibacterial and antibiotic qualities. A very useful plant, one that is easily grown, is companion plant friendly or can stand alone.
Companion Planting with Horseradish
Companion planting is a method of planting two or more plants that have a symbiotic relationship; that is, they mutually benefit one another is some way. Most plants benefit from this practice and planting companions for horseradish is no exception. As mentioned, horseradish contains oil that helps to curb fungal and microbial movement. While it doesn’t prevent infection, it can curtail it which makes horseradish a boon to many other plants, but what are companions for horseradish?
What Grows Well with Horseradish?
Horseradish not only helps ward off diseases, but it makes an excellent insect repellent. For this reason, potatoes and horseradish grow very well together. Horseradish repels:
Potato bugs
Potato beetles
Aphids
Blister beetles
Whiteflies
Some caterpillars
If you decide to try this particular horseradish plant companion combo, be advised that horseradish spreads rapidly and is easily propagated from even the tiniest bit of root left in the ground. So plant it at the corners of the potato patch or, better yet, in pots near the patch.
Fruit trees and brambles also make good horseradish plant companions; plant horseradish at the base of small fruit trees or in amongst berries or grapes to get the benefits of its insect repellent qualities. The root is also said to deter birds and small rodents, like moles and field mice, from eating up all the fruit. The same cannot be said of squirrels, however, but (in my experience) nothing deters a determined squirrel. Sweet potatoes, strawberries, asparagus and rhubarb are all said to make wonderful horseradish plant companions. Again, in every instance, the companion plants seem to get all the benefits from the horseradish. That’s okay, plant it anyway. Horseradish has numerous health benefits for humans too. It is a cancer fighting cruciferous, high in vitamin C, can be used as a gastric stimulant or a topical pain reliever, and don’t forget its antibacterial and antibiotic qualities. A very useful plant, one that is easily grown, is companion plant friendly or can stand alone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Only people who have grown horseradish in their garden know how truly pungent and delicious horseradish can be. Growing horseradish in your garden is easy. Just follow these tips on how to grow horseradish and you will be harvesting horseradish for many years to come.
Planting Horseradish
A horseradish plant (Amoracia rusticana) is typically grown from a root cutting. These can be ordered from a reputable nursery or you may be able to find someone locally who is raising horseradish and would be willing to share some of their horseradish plant with you.
As soon as you get your root cutting in early spring, plant it in the ground. Dig a hole that is deep enough to stand the root up. While holding the root upright in the hole, back fill the hole until all but the crown of the root is covered. Once the root is planted, water your horseradish thoroughly, then leave it alone. When raising horseradish, you don’t need to fertilize or fuss over the plant.
Containing a Horseradish Plant
Once your horseradish plant becomes established, it will be yours for life. One thing to keep in mind is that when growing horseradish, you need to either give it lots of room or provide firm boundaries. Horseradish will spread vigorously if steps are not taken to contain it. If you do not wish for your horseradish plant to take over your garden, either grow it in a deep container or bury a plastic tub around it in the ground. This will keep the growing horseradish plant in check.
Harvesting Horseradish
There are two schools of thought when it comes to harvesting horseradish. One says that you should be harvesting horseradish in the fall, right after the first frost. The other says that you should be harvesting horseradish in early spring, when the horseradish plant needs to be divided anyway. Which of these is best is up to you. Both are acceptable. Dig down around the horseradish plant as far as you possibly can and then with your spade, gently lift the horseradish root out of the ground. Break off some of the roots and replant them in the ground. The rest of the horseradish root can be processed into ground horseradish. Raising horseradish is very easy to do. There is very little to know about how to grow horseradish. It actually does best if you plant it and then ignore it. Growing horseradish can be rewarding and tasty.
Planting Horseradish
A horseradish plant (Amoracia rusticana) is typically grown from a root cutting. These can be ordered from a reputable nursery or you may be able to find someone locally who is raising horseradish and would be willing to share some of their horseradish plant with you.
As soon as you get your root cutting in early spring, plant it in the ground. Dig a hole that is deep enough to stand the root up. While holding the root upright in the hole, back fill the hole until all but the crown of the root is covered. Once the root is planted, water your horseradish thoroughly, then leave it alone. When raising horseradish, you don’t need to fertilize or fuss over the plant.
Containing a Horseradish Plant
Once your horseradish plant becomes established, it will be yours for life. One thing to keep in mind is that when growing horseradish, you need to either give it lots of room or provide firm boundaries. Horseradish will spread vigorously if steps are not taken to contain it. If you do not wish for your horseradish plant to take over your garden, either grow it in a deep container or bury a plastic tub around it in the ground. This will keep the growing horseradish plant in check.
Harvesting Horseradish
There are two schools of thought when it comes to harvesting horseradish. One says that you should be harvesting horseradish in the fall, right after the first frost. The other says that you should be harvesting horseradish in early spring, when the horseradish plant needs to be divided anyway. Which of these is best is up to you. Both are acceptable. Dig down around the horseradish plant as far as you possibly can and then with your spade, gently lift the horseradish root out of the ground. Break off some of the roots and replant them in the ground. The rest of the horseradish root can be processed into ground horseradish. Raising horseradish is very easy to do. There is very little to know about how to grow horseradish. It actually does best if you plant it and then ignore it. Growing horseradish can be rewarding and tasty.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
So you planted garlic in the garden and you let it grow all winter and all spring and now you are wondering when you should be harvesting garlic. If you dig it up too soon, the bulbs will be teeny and if you dig it too late, the bulbs will be split and no good for eating, so knowing when to harvest garlic is an important thing.
When Do You Harvest Garlic?
The easiest way to know when to harvest garlic is simply to look at the leaves. When the leaves are one-third brown, you’ll need to start testing the bulbs to see if they are the proper size. This is easy to do. Simply loosen the dirt above one or two garlic bulbs and get an idea of their size while still keeping them in the ground. If they look large enough, then you’re ready to make your garden garlic harvest. If they’re still too small, then your garlic will need to grow a bit more.
You don’t want to wait too long, though. Once the leaves get to be one-half to two-thirds brown, you should harvest the garlic regardless of size. Putting off harvesting garlic until after the leaves are completely brown will only result in an inedible bulb. Your garden garlic harvest will normally happen some time in July or August if you are in a climate that is ideal for garlic growth. In warmer climates, you can expect to be harvesting garlic as early as spring, though only certain garlic varieties will perform well in warm climates.
How to Harvest Garlic
Now that you know when to harvest garlic, you need to know how to harvest garlic. While it may seem like harvesting garlic is just a matter of digging the bulbs out of the ground, there are a few things to keep in mind.
Dig, don’t pull. When you are harvesting garlic, you need to dig it out of the ground. If you try to pull it out, you will only break the leaves off.
Be gentle. Freshly dug garlic bulbs will bruise easily and it is easy to accidentally slice a bulb open while digging if you aren’t careful. When harvesting garlic, lift each bulb individually from the ground. Place it in a container where it won’t get jostled too much.
Get the garlic out of the sun as soon as possible. Garlic will blanch and burn in the sun. Put the freshly dug unwashed bulbs in a dark, dry place as soon as possible.
Now you know when to harvest garlic and how to harvest garlic. Really, the only thing left to do is eat your garden garlic harvest.
When Do You Harvest Garlic?
The easiest way to know when to harvest garlic is simply to look at the leaves. When the leaves are one-third brown, you’ll need to start testing the bulbs to see if they are the proper size. This is easy to do. Simply loosen the dirt above one or two garlic bulbs and get an idea of their size while still keeping them in the ground. If they look large enough, then you’re ready to make your garden garlic harvest. If they’re still too small, then your garlic will need to grow a bit more.
You don’t want to wait too long, though. Once the leaves get to be one-half to two-thirds brown, you should harvest the garlic regardless of size. Putting off harvesting garlic until after the leaves are completely brown will only result in an inedible bulb. Your garden garlic harvest will normally happen some time in July or August if you are in a climate that is ideal for garlic growth. In warmer climates, you can expect to be harvesting garlic as early as spring, though only certain garlic varieties will perform well in warm climates.
How to Harvest Garlic
Now that you know when to harvest garlic, you need to know how to harvest garlic. While it may seem like harvesting garlic is just a matter of digging the bulbs out of the ground, there are a few things to keep in mind.
Dig, don’t pull. When you are harvesting garlic, you need to dig it out of the ground. If you try to pull it out, you will only break the leaves off.
Be gentle. Freshly dug garlic bulbs will bruise easily and it is easy to accidentally slice a bulb open while digging if you aren’t careful. When harvesting garlic, lift each bulb individually from the ground. Place it in a container where it won’t get jostled too much.
Get the garlic out of the sun as soon as possible. Garlic will blanch and burn in the sun. Put the freshly dug unwashed bulbs in a dark, dry place as soon as possible.
Now you know when to harvest garlic and how to harvest garlic. Really, the only thing left to do is eat your garden garlic harvest.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Once in awhile someone wonders how to grow garlic from seed. While growing garlic is easy, there’s no sure way to do so using garlic seed. Garlic is typically grown from cloves.
Garlic Seed Propagation
Garlic doesn’t usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic.
Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. But for the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves, which are found inside the bulbils. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties, which can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don’t normally produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.
How to Grow Garlic
Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that’s been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic anytime in autumn, provided it’s early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches deep and spacing about 6 inches.
Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.
Garlic Seed Propagation
Garlic doesn’t usually set true seed, and on those rare occasions when it does, garlic seed resembles the small, black seeds of onions. The flowers of garlic plants usually fade long before producing any seed. Of course, plants produced using garlic seed propagation are not likely to grow anyway and those few that do will take years to produce any garlic.
Occasionally, topsets (or flower stalks) can be removed and used to increase seed stock, as some varieties may stimulate seed production. But for the most part, garlic is reproduced and grown from cloves, which are found inside the bulbils. Garlic seed propagation depends mainly on the variety used and the climate where it is grown. Hardneck varieties such as Purple Stripe produce flower stalks and are usually well adapted to cooler climates. Hardneck garlic has a slightly shorter shelf life, from five to seven months, while softneck varieties, which can be stored for up to nine months. Softneck garlic, like artichoke, don’t normally produce flower stalks; however, climate can be a factor as to whether or not this actually happens. Although some types of softneck garlic are suitable for cool climates, most do better in warmer environments. Your best chance for garlic seed propagation to be successful is to grow several varieties.
How to Grow Garlic
Garlic can be grown easily, and again, it is typically grown from cloves, not garlic seed. Garlic grows best in loose, well-drained soil that’s been amended with organic matter. Like many bulbs, garlic requires a cold period for healthy growth. You can plant garlic anytime in autumn, provided it’s early enough for them to build strong roots systems and the soil is still manageable. Separate the cloves just prior to planting and locate a sunny area to grow them in. Plant the cloves with the point facing upward about 2 to 3 inches deep and spacing about 6 inches.
Apply a generous amount of mulch to help protect their shallow roots over winter. This can be removed in early spring once the new growth is ready to emerge and the threat of freezing has ceased. During its growing season, garlic requires frequent watering and occasional fertilizing. The plants can be harvested in late summer. Dig up the garlic plants and bundle them together (about six to eight plants) for drying. Hang them in a well-ventilated area for about three to four weeks.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic is an easy to grow plant that is used for its bulb and its greens. Garlic scapes are the first tender green shoots on garlic which will become bulbils. They are edible when young and add a delicate garlic flavor to salads, soups and sauces. You can use them just as you would use chives. Most gardeners wouldn’t encourage growing garlic scapes but when they appear, remove them and use them for early spring flavor.
What is a Garlic Scape?
Garlic scapes are curly tendrils of greenery that come up from hard necked garlic plants. They terminate in something that looks like a bud. If you let the scape grow, it will flower with a wiry white-tipped cluster of tiny blooms. Each bloom will swell at the tip and produce seeds that bloat and turn brown. The protuberances become bulbils or tiny bulbs, which may be planted and will become garlic in three to four years. They can be removed without damaging the plant and eaten when young.
Growing Garlic Scapes
There’s nothing you need to do to grow garlic scapes other than to plant garlic. Their formation is a natural part of the garlic growth cycle and part of the plant’s reproductive process. Provide good care to the garlic and watch in spring for the curly slender stems. Cutting scapes of garlic is an early season activity in March or April. If you allow the scapes to develop, they become woody and lose their flavor.
Should I Cut Garlic Scapes?
Cutting scapes of garlic off the plant is an individual decision. Many gardeners believe that the removal of the scapes will increase the bulb production because the plant can put its energy into the underground growth. You can also leave them and allow them to mature so you can harvest the bulbils for future harvests. Consider the size of cloves you like to have when you ask yourself, “Should I cut garlic scapes?” If you’re trying to grow monstrous garlic, you will likely want to remove the scapes.
How to Harvest Garlic Scapes
The only tools necessary for cutting scapes of garlic are scissors and a container. Cut the scape at the base of the plant. You can eat the slim green leaves and the bud-like structure. You can also just pinch or bend off the stems. They should snap off easily. Rinse them and put them in a glass of water or in a zip top bag in the refrigerator where they will keep for several days.
Using Garlic Scapes
Once you’ve tried these little delicacies, you will never wonder, what is a garlic scape? The fresh, delicate garlic flavor will be imprinted on your culinary memory with recipes to follow. Use garlic scapes in soups, stews and sauces. Slice them into salads or sauté them as a quick addition to pasta. Use them to flavor foods like fish or go crazy and make them into a flavorful pesto. These flavorful shoots are too good to waste.
What is a Garlic Scape?
Garlic scapes are curly tendrils of greenery that come up from hard necked garlic plants. They terminate in something that looks like a bud. If you let the scape grow, it will flower with a wiry white-tipped cluster of tiny blooms. Each bloom will swell at the tip and produce seeds that bloat and turn brown. The protuberances become bulbils or tiny bulbs, which may be planted and will become garlic in three to four years. They can be removed without damaging the plant and eaten when young.
Growing Garlic Scapes
There’s nothing you need to do to grow garlic scapes other than to plant garlic. Their formation is a natural part of the garlic growth cycle and part of the plant’s reproductive process. Provide good care to the garlic and watch in spring for the curly slender stems. Cutting scapes of garlic is an early season activity in March or April. If you allow the scapes to develop, they become woody and lose their flavor.
Should I Cut Garlic Scapes?
Cutting scapes of garlic off the plant is an individual decision. Many gardeners believe that the removal of the scapes will increase the bulb production because the plant can put its energy into the underground growth. You can also leave them and allow them to mature so you can harvest the bulbils for future harvests. Consider the size of cloves you like to have when you ask yourself, “Should I cut garlic scapes?” If you’re trying to grow monstrous garlic, you will likely want to remove the scapes.
How to Harvest Garlic Scapes
The only tools necessary for cutting scapes of garlic are scissors and a container. Cut the scape at the base of the plant. You can eat the slim green leaves and the bud-like structure. You can also just pinch or bend off the stems. They should snap off easily. Rinse them and put them in a glass of water or in a zip top bag in the refrigerator where they will keep for several days.
Using Garlic Scapes
Once you’ve tried these little delicacies, you will never wonder, what is a garlic scape? The fresh, delicate garlic flavor will be imprinted on your culinary memory with recipes to follow. Use garlic scapes in soups, stews and sauces. Slice them into salads or sauté them as a quick addition to pasta. Use them to flavor foods like fish or go crazy and make them into a flavorful pesto. These flavorful shoots are too good to waste.
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2
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Most epicureans use garlic on an almost daily basis to enhance the flavor of our culinary creations. Another plant that can be used to impart a similar, though lighter, flavor of garlic is the elephant garlic. How do you grow elephant garlic and what are some of elephant garlic uses? Read on to learn more.
What is Elephant Garlic?
Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) looks like a giant garlic clove but in fact, is not a true garlic but more closely related to a leek. It is a hardy bulb with large blue-green leaves. This perennial herb boasts an outsized pink or purple flower stalk that appears in the spring or summer. Under the ground, a large bulb consisting of five to six large cloves surrounded by smaller bulblets grows. This allium plant attains a height of about 3 feet from bulb to the tip of the strap-like leaves and originates in Asia.
How to Grow Elephant Garlic
This herb is easy to grow and once established, requires little maintenance. Purchase large seed cloves from a supplier or try setting those found at the grocers. Elephant garlic bought at the grocers may not sprout, however, as they are often sprayed with a growth inhibitor to prevent sprouting. Look for heads that are firm with a dry, papery covering. With elephant garlic planting, most any soil will do, but for the largest bulbs begin with a well-draining soil medium. Dig down a foot into the soil and amend with a 1.5 gallon bucket of sand, granite dust, humus/peat moss mix per 2’x 2’to 3’x 3′ section and mix in well. Top dress with some well-aged manure and mulch around the plants with chopped leaves and/or sawdust to keep weeds at bay and also to nourish as the amendments decompose or break down. Elephant garlic prefers full sun and can be grown in temperate regions all the way into tropical zones. In cooler climates, plant in the fall or spring while in warmer regions the herb can be planted in spring, fall, or winter. Break up the bulb into cloves for propagation. Some cloves are much smaller and are called corms, which grow on the outside of the bulb. If you plant these corms, they will produce a non-blooming plant in the first year with a solid bulb or single large clove. In the second year, the clove will begin to separate into multiple cloves, so don’t ignore the corms. It may take two years, but eventually you will get a good head of elephant garlic.
Caring for and Harvesting Elephant Garlic
Once planted, elephant garlic care is pretty simple. The plant does not have to be divided or harvested each year, but rather can be left alone where it will spread into a clump of multiple flowering heads. These clumps can be left as ornamentals and as deterrents to pests such as aphids, but will eventually become over crowded, resulting in stunted growth. Water the elephant garlic when first planted and regularly in the spring with 1 inch of water per week. Water the plants in the morning so the soil dries by nightfall to discourage diseases. Stop watering when the garlic’s leaves start drying out, which is an indication it’s harvest time. Elephant garlic should be ready to pick when the leaves are bent over and dying back — about 90 days after planting. When half of the leaves have died back, loosen the soil around the bulb with a trowel. You can also top off the immature plant tops (scapes) when they are tender prior to blooming. This will direct more of the plant’s energy into creating large bulbs.Elephant Garlic Uses
Scapes can be pickled, fermented, stir fried, etc. and even frozen in a resealable bag, raw, for up to a year. The bulb itself can be used just as regular garlic, albeit with a milder flavor. The entire bulb can be roasted whole and used as a spread on bread. It can be sautéed, sliced and eaten raw, and minced. Drying the bulb out in a cool, dry basement for a few months will extend the life of the garlic and induce a fuller flavor. Hang the bulbs to dry and store for up to 10 months.
What is Elephant Garlic?
Elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) looks like a giant garlic clove but in fact, is not a true garlic but more closely related to a leek. It is a hardy bulb with large blue-green leaves. This perennial herb boasts an outsized pink or purple flower stalk that appears in the spring or summer. Under the ground, a large bulb consisting of five to six large cloves surrounded by smaller bulblets grows. This allium plant attains a height of about 3 feet from bulb to the tip of the strap-like leaves and originates in Asia.
How to Grow Elephant Garlic
This herb is easy to grow and once established, requires little maintenance. Purchase large seed cloves from a supplier or try setting those found at the grocers. Elephant garlic bought at the grocers may not sprout, however, as they are often sprayed with a growth inhibitor to prevent sprouting. Look for heads that are firm with a dry, papery covering. With elephant garlic planting, most any soil will do, but for the largest bulbs begin with a well-draining soil medium. Dig down a foot into the soil and amend with a 1.5 gallon bucket of sand, granite dust, humus/peat moss mix per 2’x 2’to 3’x 3′ section and mix in well. Top dress with some well-aged manure and mulch around the plants with chopped leaves and/or sawdust to keep weeds at bay and also to nourish as the amendments decompose or break down. Elephant garlic prefers full sun and can be grown in temperate regions all the way into tropical zones. In cooler climates, plant in the fall or spring while in warmer regions the herb can be planted in spring, fall, or winter. Break up the bulb into cloves for propagation. Some cloves are much smaller and are called corms, which grow on the outside of the bulb. If you plant these corms, they will produce a non-blooming plant in the first year with a solid bulb or single large clove. In the second year, the clove will begin to separate into multiple cloves, so don’t ignore the corms. It may take two years, but eventually you will get a good head of elephant garlic.
Caring for and Harvesting Elephant Garlic
Once planted, elephant garlic care is pretty simple. The plant does not have to be divided or harvested each year, but rather can be left alone where it will spread into a clump of multiple flowering heads. These clumps can be left as ornamentals and as deterrents to pests such as aphids, but will eventually become over crowded, resulting in stunted growth. Water the elephant garlic when first planted and regularly in the spring with 1 inch of water per week. Water the plants in the morning so the soil dries by nightfall to discourage diseases. Stop watering when the garlic’s leaves start drying out, which is an indication it’s harvest time. Elephant garlic should be ready to pick when the leaves are bent over and dying back — about 90 days after planting. When half of the leaves have died back, loosen the soil around the bulb with a trowel. You can also top off the immature plant tops (scapes) when they are tender prior to blooming. This will direct more of the plant’s energy into creating large bulbs.Elephant Garlic Uses
Scapes can be pickled, fermented, stir fried, etc. and even frozen in a resealable bag, raw, for up to a year. The bulb itself can be used just as regular garlic, albeit with a milder flavor. The entire bulb can be roasted whole and used as a spread on bread. It can be sautéed, sliced and eaten raw, and minced. Drying the bulb out in a cool, dry basement for a few months will extend the life of the garlic and induce a fuller flavor. Hang the bulbs to dry and store for up to 10 months.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic packs a robust aroma and flavor that many of us can’t do without. The good news is that garlic is fairly easy to grow and for the most part, is pest resistant. In fact, garlic is often a part of co-planting or companion planting, wherein garlic is grown alongside other plants to their mutual benefit. That said, even garlic has its share of garlic plant pests. What are some common garlic pests and how can you control pests on garlic bulbs?
What are Common Garlic Pests?
Garlic has both natural fungicidal and pesticidal properties. That’s why many gardeners plant it near certain crops. Garlic contains the compound allicin, which is released when the cloves are crushed or bitten. Possibly, this is garlic’s defense mechanism, but whatever the case, it serves to deter some pests like aphids near lettuce. Apparently, they don’t love garlic as much as I do; they view it as more like the repellent it is to Dracula.
Even so, the plant may get garlic bugs that worship the bulb. Many of these garlic plant pests also plague onions, which are closely related to garlic.
Mites – Bulb mites are one example of pests found on garlic bulbs and other alliums. Off white in color, shiny and globular, they are found huddled together under the plants’ roots. Bulb mites reduce harvest and generally stunt plant growth. They can live from one growing season to the next, so it is recommended that you rotate plantings by skipping the allium varieties in successive years. Leaf miners – Leaf miners (Liriomyza huidobrensis) are another pest found on garlic bulbs, first as eggs lain within the leaf tissue. The hatchlings are tiny, off-white larvae that then tunnel inside the leaves, leaving visible damage. Although the resulting leaf damage is primarily cosmetic, the presence of leaf miners may damage other leafy crops in the garden. Wheat curl mites – Severe infestations of wheat curl mite can cause twisted, stunted leaf growth but its major impact is upon the bulb. Wheat curl mites (Eriphyes tulipae) can cause cloves to dry out. The mites act as a vector for Yellow Streak virus as well. The mites are so tiny; they are nearly invisible to the naked eye. Treating the mites is possible by dipping the seed garlic in hot water prior to planting. Nematodes – A particularly insidious garlic bug is the nematode (Ditylenchus dipsaci), which lives and reproduces inside garlic plants. These microscopic worm-like pests eat all parts of the stems, leaves and bulbs. It can live without water and survive for many years in the soil. Nematode nibbling can result in deformation, discoloration and tissue collapse of the bulb. The worst thing about garlic nematodes is that their population continues to expand exponentially for years with no visible signs of damage. What this means is that for years, healthy garlic plants will not be significantly affected but then all at once the astronomical nematode population will decimate the garlic crop. Thrips – Lastly, thrips are the garlic plant’s most common pest. They suck the sap from the plants, gradually slowing growth and bulb production. If the infestation is severe, entire commercial garlic fields can wilt and die. In additional to those above, garlic plants can, on occasion, be feasted on by snails.
Control of Garlic Insect Pests
Some of the above pests can be dealt with by applying commercially available pesticides. If you would rather use a more organic method, the first order of business is to practice crop rotation, not just for garlic, but for any alliums. Also, seek out guaranteed clean seed. Practice strict sanitation and only use disease-free planting material. Sticky traps can be laid to entrap thrip migrations. Garlic’s powerful aroma may also be a key player in garlic insect pest control. Garlic extract is used to treat some plants and for repelling pests such as slugs. Strangely, an application of garlic extract may be the key to thwarting nefarious insect armies and if your nose is up for it, certainly worth a try.
What are Common Garlic Pests?
Garlic has both natural fungicidal and pesticidal properties. That’s why many gardeners plant it near certain crops. Garlic contains the compound allicin, which is released when the cloves are crushed or bitten. Possibly, this is garlic’s defense mechanism, but whatever the case, it serves to deter some pests like aphids near lettuce. Apparently, they don’t love garlic as much as I do; they view it as more like the repellent it is to Dracula.
Even so, the plant may get garlic bugs that worship the bulb. Many of these garlic plant pests also plague onions, which are closely related to garlic.
Mites – Bulb mites are one example of pests found on garlic bulbs and other alliums. Off white in color, shiny and globular, they are found huddled together under the plants’ roots. Bulb mites reduce harvest and generally stunt plant growth. They can live from one growing season to the next, so it is recommended that you rotate plantings by skipping the allium varieties in successive years. Leaf miners – Leaf miners (Liriomyza huidobrensis) are another pest found on garlic bulbs, first as eggs lain within the leaf tissue. The hatchlings are tiny, off-white larvae that then tunnel inside the leaves, leaving visible damage. Although the resulting leaf damage is primarily cosmetic, the presence of leaf miners may damage other leafy crops in the garden. Wheat curl mites – Severe infestations of wheat curl mite can cause twisted, stunted leaf growth but its major impact is upon the bulb. Wheat curl mites (Eriphyes tulipae) can cause cloves to dry out. The mites act as a vector for Yellow Streak virus as well. The mites are so tiny; they are nearly invisible to the naked eye. Treating the mites is possible by dipping the seed garlic in hot water prior to planting. Nematodes – A particularly insidious garlic bug is the nematode (Ditylenchus dipsaci), which lives and reproduces inside garlic plants. These microscopic worm-like pests eat all parts of the stems, leaves and bulbs. It can live without water and survive for many years in the soil. Nematode nibbling can result in deformation, discoloration and tissue collapse of the bulb. The worst thing about garlic nematodes is that their population continues to expand exponentially for years with no visible signs of damage. What this means is that for years, healthy garlic plants will not be significantly affected but then all at once the astronomical nematode population will decimate the garlic crop. Thrips – Lastly, thrips are the garlic plant’s most common pest. They suck the sap from the plants, gradually slowing growth and bulb production. If the infestation is severe, entire commercial garlic fields can wilt and die. In additional to those above, garlic plants can, on occasion, be feasted on by snails.
Control of Garlic Insect Pests
Some of the above pests can be dealt with by applying commercially available pesticides. If you would rather use a more organic method, the first order of business is to practice crop rotation, not just for garlic, but for any alliums. Also, seek out guaranteed clean seed. Practice strict sanitation and only use disease-free planting material. Sticky traps can be laid to entrap thrip migrations. Garlic’s powerful aroma may also be a key player in garlic insect pest control. Garlic extract is used to treat some plants and for repelling pests such as slugs. Strangely, an application of garlic extract may be the key to thwarting nefarious insect armies and if your nose is up for it, certainly worth a try.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Growing garlic (Allium sativum) in the garden is a great thing for your kitchen garden. Fresh garlic is a great seasoning. Let’s look at how to plant and grow garlic.
How to Grow Garlic
Growing garlic needs cool temperatures. Plant hard-neck garlic in the fall. Where there are cold winters, you can plant the garlic four to six weeks before the ground freezes. In milder winter areas, plant your garlic through winter but before February.
How to Plant Garlic
Follow these steps for growing garlic:
1. Unless your soil is naturally loose, add a lot of organic matter like compost or well-aged manure. 2. Separate the garlic bulb into individual cloves (just like you do when cooking but without peeling them). 3. Plant garlic cloves about an inch deep. The fatter end that was at the bottom of the bulb should be at the bottom of the hole. If your winters are colder, you can plant the pieces deeper. 4. Space your cloves 2 to 4 inches apart. Your rows can go 12 to 18 inches apart. If you want bigger garlic bulbs, you can try spacing cloves on a 6 inch by 12 inch grid.
5. While the plants are green and growing, fertilize them, but stop fertilizing after they begin to “bulb-up.” If you feed your garlic too late, your garlic won’t go dormant. 6. If there isn’t much rain in your area, water the garlic plants while they are growing just as you would any other green plant in your garden. 7. Your garlic is ready to harvest once your leaves turn brown. You can start checking when five or six green leaves are left. 8. Garlic needs to cure before you store it anywhere. Make sure to bundle eight to a dozen together by their leaves and hang them in a place to dry. Now that you know how to grow garlic, you can add this tasty herb to your kitchen garden.
How to Grow Garlic
Growing garlic needs cool temperatures. Plant hard-neck garlic in the fall. Where there are cold winters, you can plant the garlic four to six weeks before the ground freezes. In milder winter areas, plant your garlic through winter but before February.
How to Plant Garlic
Follow these steps for growing garlic:
1. Unless your soil is naturally loose, add a lot of organic matter like compost or well-aged manure. 2. Separate the garlic bulb into individual cloves (just like you do when cooking but without peeling them). 3. Plant garlic cloves about an inch deep. The fatter end that was at the bottom of the bulb should be at the bottom of the hole. If your winters are colder, you can plant the pieces deeper. 4. Space your cloves 2 to 4 inches apart. Your rows can go 12 to 18 inches apart. If you want bigger garlic bulbs, you can try spacing cloves on a 6 inch by 12 inch grid.
5. While the plants are green and growing, fertilize them, but stop fertilizing after they begin to “bulb-up.” If you feed your garlic too late, your garlic won’t go dormant. 6. If there isn’t much rain in your area, water the garlic plants while they are growing just as you would any other green plant in your garden. 7. Your garlic is ready to harvest once your leaves turn brown. You can start checking when five or six green leaves are left. 8. Garlic needs to cure before you store it anywhere. Make sure to bundle eight to a dozen together by their leaves and hang them in a place to dry. Now that you know how to grow garlic, you can add this tasty herb to your kitchen garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
What’s in a name? In the case of brain cactus, a fascinating plant, albeit with a very descriptive name. One of the many species of Mammillaria, Cristata is the form known as brain cactus. It is an easy to grow cactus which often produces lovely little blooms and makes a great houseplant or outdoor specimen in warmer climates. Read on for some Cristata information along with care and growing tips.
What is Brain Cactus?
Mammillaria elongata ‘Cristata’ is also colorfully named the brain cactus due to its convoluted and sinuous growth. One of the more bizarre pieces of Cristata information is how the shape occurs. The form is a result of damage to the plant when it is young. The cells at the injury site go crazy and multiply at a far faster rate than normal. This causes the twisted nature of the pads. Brain cactus is a common houseplant and in cultivation, this “damage” is manually manipulated to create the fan-like growth. The brain cactus is generally a small plant, only achieving 6 inches (15.24 cm.) in height. They are chubby little guys with waistband widths of 12 inches across (31 cm.). In the wild of Central Mexico, they occur in rocky outcroppings and between crevasses. Over time, they develop into a column of stems and small offsets. The spines are in closely gathered areoles and consist of several sizes, with the finest spines almost hair-like. Plants are green but the hairy spines give it a grayish case.
How to Grow a Brain Cactus
These plants make fine indoor plants but can only thrive outside in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. Since they are small, try growing a brain cactus in a succulent dish with a mixture of forms and textures. You may expect blooms any time over the course of the summer which will brighten the container and add even more appeal. You may think you know all about succulent care but you don’t know how to grow a brain cactus. Most cactus are sensitive to overwatering and poor drainage, but brain cactus pads will actually trap moisture in the folds and crevasses. This can be bad in cultivation where gnats are attracted, and mold and mildew issues can instill rot and kill the plant. It is best to water from the base of the container to prevent any moisture from collecting on the body of brain cactus. If you wish to propagate the plant, there are some easy methods. Use woody stem cuttings and allow the cut end to callus over for a week. Then insert the cut end into soilless potting medium, such as lightly moistened sand. The other way is to divide the pups away from the parent plant with a clean, sterile knife. Each should also be allowed to callus and then planted into cactus mixture. Growing a brain cactus from pups results in quicker establishment and faster blooms.
Cristata Brain Cactus Care
As a succulent from arid regions, brain cactus are most sensitive to moisture. They need to be kept in a dry place with little humidity. Excess humidity can do as much damage to the plant as too much water. Consider that the region from which they hail is dry most of the year and then characterized by a short drenching rainy season. The plants then do most of their growth and flower after the rain followed by a fairly slow growth rate, almost in hibernation, until the next rainy season. Place the container in a partially sunny location where the brightest noon day rays can’t burn the plant. Allow the surface of the soil to dry to the touch before watering. In winter, water half the amount. In spring, feed with a dilution of cactus food.
What is Brain Cactus?
Mammillaria elongata ‘Cristata’ is also colorfully named the brain cactus due to its convoluted and sinuous growth. One of the more bizarre pieces of Cristata information is how the shape occurs. The form is a result of damage to the plant when it is young. The cells at the injury site go crazy and multiply at a far faster rate than normal. This causes the twisted nature of the pads. Brain cactus is a common houseplant and in cultivation, this “damage” is manually manipulated to create the fan-like growth. The brain cactus is generally a small plant, only achieving 6 inches (15.24 cm.) in height. They are chubby little guys with waistband widths of 12 inches across (31 cm.). In the wild of Central Mexico, they occur in rocky outcroppings and between crevasses. Over time, they develop into a column of stems and small offsets. The spines are in closely gathered areoles and consist of several sizes, with the finest spines almost hair-like. Plants are green but the hairy spines give it a grayish case.
How to Grow a Brain Cactus
These plants make fine indoor plants but can only thrive outside in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 and 11. Since they are small, try growing a brain cactus in a succulent dish with a mixture of forms and textures. You may expect blooms any time over the course of the summer which will brighten the container and add even more appeal. You may think you know all about succulent care but you don’t know how to grow a brain cactus. Most cactus are sensitive to overwatering and poor drainage, but brain cactus pads will actually trap moisture in the folds and crevasses. This can be bad in cultivation where gnats are attracted, and mold and mildew issues can instill rot and kill the plant. It is best to water from the base of the container to prevent any moisture from collecting on the body of brain cactus. If you wish to propagate the plant, there are some easy methods. Use woody stem cuttings and allow the cut end to callus over for a week. Then insert the cut end into soilless potting medium, such as lightly moistened sand. The other way is to divide the pups away from the parent plant with a clean, sterile knife. Each should also be allowed to callus and then planted into cactus mixture. Growing a brain cactus from pups results in quicker establishment and faster blooms.
Cristata Brain Cactus Care
As a succulent from arid regions, brain cactus are most sensitive to moisture. They need to be kept in a dry place with little humidity. Excess humidity can do as much damage to the plant as too much water. Consider that the region from which they hail is dry most of the year and then characterized by a short drenching rainy season. The plants then do most of their growth and flower after the rain followed by a fairly slow growth rate, almost in hibernation, until the next rainy season. Place the container in a partially sunny location where the brightest noon day rays can’t burn the plant. Allow the surface of the soil to dry to the touch before watering. In winter, water half the amount. In spring, feed with a dilution of cactus food.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Plant enthusiasts are always on the look-out for an unusual and amazing specimen. Huernia zebrina, or Lifesaver plant, is one of the best in this category. Lifesaver cactus plants are easy to grow in small dish gardens or even bonsai containers. The biggest challenges with Huernia cactus care are overwatering, incorrect lighting and mealybugs. Let’s go through some guidelines on how to grow a Lifesaver cactus and, hopefully, get some of the blooms for which it is named.
Lifesaver Cactus Plants
Lifesaver plants can produce amazing 5-pointed, star-like blooms with zebra stripes and a thickened center that resembles a root beer flavored Lifesaver. If this isn’t enough to intrigue you, they have fascinating 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges. In lower light situations, these are deeply green, but they attain a reddish tinge in full sun. These are not frost hardy but you can try growing Huernia cactus on the patio in summer with some protection from midday sun. Succulents, like cactus, are some of the easiest plants to care for and provide a range of texture and form for any gardener’s taste. Growing Huernia cactus as houseplants is preferred for most regions of the country, as they are not tolerant of cold weather.
How to Grow a Lifesaver Cactus
Choose a well-draining container, preferably one that is unglazed and will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Use a good cactus mix or make your own blend of 1 part potting soil and 4 parts gritty material. Lighting is of special concern with Huernia cactus care. They grow under plants in their native range and can exhibit stress if grown in searing heat and light. Try an eastern or western window that is bright most of the day but doesn’t experience the hottest rays of the day. A sensible watering schedule is key to caring for Huernia. As with most succulents, the plant is prone to rot if it is too wet, but it does need supplemental water during its growing season. In winter, the plant hardly needs water at all, just once per month on average, as it is mostly dormant and not actively producing growth. In spring through summer, water the plant when the soil is dry to the touch. Make sure any saucer you have is emptied of water to prevent root rot. Another important part of Huernia cactus care is temperature. If you are growing the plant outside, it should be moved indoors if temperatures drop to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Pests are rarely a problem, but occasionally mealybugs can become a concern. Repot any purchased plants and spray with a 1:10 dilution of rubbing alcohol and water. Additional Info on Caring for Huernia Cactus You will rarely need to repot your Lifesaver plant. They prefer a slightly crowded environment and this will also keep a tight, compact plant. Change the soil every two years, but you can usually keep the same pot. Cactus plants, in general, benefit from supplemental feeding during their growing season. Gradually increase the amount of water you give the plant in April or May. At this time, feed the plant with a 15-15-15 liquid plant food once per month diluted by half. Stop fertilizing in late August to prevent new growth from forming while the plant goes into dormancy. Huernia zebrina doesn’t really need pruning unless you want a smaller plant. You can save the cuttings, let them callus for a few days and then pot them up to create new plants. This is a really easy and fun little plant to grow and enjoy, season after season.
Lifesaver Cactus Plants
Lifesaver plants can produce amazing 5-pointed, star-like blooms with zebra stripes and a thickened center that resembles a root beer flavored Lifesaver. If this isn’t enough to intrigue you, they have fascinating 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges. In lower light situations, these are deeply green, but they attain a reddish tinge in full sun. These are not frost hardy but you can try growing Huernia cactus on the patio in summer with some protection from midday sun. Succulents, like cactus, are some of the easiest plants to care for and provide a range of texture and form for any gardener’s taste. Growing Huernia cactus as houseplants is preferred for most regions of the country, as they are not tolerant of cold weather.
How to Grow a Lifesaver Cactus
Choose a well-draining container, preferably one that is unglazed and will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Use a good cactus mix or make your own blend of 1 part potting soil and 4 parts gritty material. Lighting is of special concern with Huernia cactus care. They grow under plants in their native range and can exhibit stress if grown in searing heat and light. Try an eastern or western window that is bright most of the day but doesn’t experience the hottest rays of the day. A sensible watering schedule is key to caring for Huernia. As with most succulents, the plant is prone to rot if it is too wet, but it does need supplemental water during its growing season. In winter, the plant hardly needs water at all, just once per month on average, as it is mostly dormant and not actively producing growth. In spring through summer, water the plant when the soil is dry to the touch. Make sure any saucer you have is emptied of water to prevent root rot. Another important part of Huernia cactus care is temperature. If you are growing the plant outside, it should be moved indoors if temperatures drop to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Pests are rarely a problem, but occasionally mealybugs can become a concern. Repot any purchased plants and spray with a 1:10 dilution of rubbing alcohol and water. Additional Info on Caring for Huernia Cactus You will rarely need to repot your Lifesaver plant. They prefer a slightly crowded environment and this will also keep a tight, compact plant. Change the soil every two years, but you can usually keep the same pot. Cactus plants, in general, benefit from supplemental feeding during their growing season. Gradually increase the amount of water you give the plant in April or May. At this time, feed the plant with a 15-15-15 liquid plant food once per month diluted by half. Stop fertilizing in late August to prevent new growth from forming while the plant goes into dormancy. Huernia zebrina doesn’t really need pruning unless you want a smaller plant. You can save the cuttings, let them callus for a few days and then pot them up to create new plants. This is a really easy and fun little plant to grow and enjoy, season after season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Hens and chicks are members of the Sempervivum group of succulent plants. They are commonly called houseleeks and grow well indoors and out, in cool or hot temperatures. Hens and chicks plants are so called because of the rosette shape and habit of the plant to produce numerous babies. A rockery or dry, nutrient challenged location is a good place for growing hens and chicks. An easy to care for garden scheme should include hens and chicks, sedum and sprawling rock cress.
Using Hens and Chicks Plants
Hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum) is an alpine plant, which gives it an amazing tolerance for poor soils and unwelcoming conditions. The mother plant is attached to the babies (or chicks) by an underground runner. The chicks may be as small as a dime and the mother can grow to the size of a small plate. Hens and chicks make excellent container plants both for the interior and exterior of the home.
How to Grow Hens and Chicks
Growing hens and chicks is easy. The plants are readily available in most nurseries. They require full sun and well drained, even gritty soil. Hens and chicks don’t need much fertilizer and should rarely be watered. As succulents, hens and chicks plants are accustomed to very little water. A fun project is learning how to grow hens and chicks from the offsets. The chick can be gently pulled off the mother plant and installed in a new location. Hens and chicks require very little soil and can be made to grow even in rock crevasses.
The ideal temperature for hens and chicks is between 65 and 75 F. (18-24 C.). When temperatures zoom upwards or plummet down, the plants become semi-dormant and will cease growing. Potted plants can be placed in clay pots with a cactus or succulent mix. You can also make your own with two parts topsoil, two parts sand and one part perlite. Potted plants will need more fertilizer than those in the ground. A liquid fertilizer diluted by half should be watered in during spring and summer irrigation. You can also grow hens and chicks from seed. Online nurseries carry an amazing array of varieties and seeding your own will give you many forms for you and your friends. Seed is sown in a cactus mix and misted until evenly damp, then the seeds are kept in a warm room until germination. After germination, some fine gravel is sprinkled around the plants to help conserve moisture. Seedlings will need to be misted every few days and grown in a bright sunny window. Transplant them after they have reached an inch in diameter. Hens and chicks plants need little care. The mother plant will die off after four to six years and should be removed. The plants produce a flower when mature and these should be pulled off the plant when they expire. Divide the chicks from the mother plant at least every two years to prevent overcrowding.
Using Hens and Chicks Plants
Hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum) is an alpine plant, which gives it an amazing tolerance for poor soils and unwelcoming conditions. The mother plant is attached to the babies (or chicks) by an underground runner. The chicks may be as small as a dime and the mother can grow to the size of a small plate. Hens and chicks make excellent container plants both for the interior and exterior of the home.
How to Grow Hens and Chicks
Growing hens and chicks is easy. The plants are readily available in most nurseries. They require full sun and well drained, even gritty soil. Hens and chicks don’t need much fertilizer and should rarely be watered. As succulents, hens and chicks plants are accustomed to very little water. A fun project is learning how to grow hens and chicks from the offsets. The chick can be gently pulled off the mother plant and installed in a new location. Hens and chicks require very little soil and can be made to grow even in rock crevasses.
The ideal temperature for hens and chicks is between 65 and 75 F. (18-24 C.). When temperatures zoom upwards or plummet down, the plants become semi-dormant and will cease growing. Potted plants can be placed in clay pots with a cactus or succulent mix. You can also make your own with two parts topsoil, two parts sand and one part perlite. Potted plants will need more fertilizer than those in the ground. A liquid fertilizer diluted by half should be watered in during spring and summer irrigation. You can also grow hens and chicks from seed. Online nurseries carry an amazing array of varieties and seeding your own will give you many forms for you and your friends. Seed is sown in a cactus mix and misted until evenly damp, then the seeds are kept in a warm room until germination. After germination, some fine gravel is sprinkled around the plants to help conserve moisture. Seedlings will need to be misted every few days and grown in a bright sunny window. Transplant them after they have reached an inch in diameter. Hens and chicks plants need little care. The mother plant will die off after four to six years and should be removed. The plants produce a flower when mature and these should be pulled off the plant when they expire. Divide the chicks from the mother plant at least every two years to prevent overcrowding.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Succulent plants are not only easy to care for but provide a wealth of intriguing shapes and stunning colors. What’s even better is the fact that these exotic showstoppers have the unique ability to grow in some of the most unlikely of places. And I bet you thought they were just desert plants. While these exotic plants are capable of storing water, which makes them ideal for growing in arid conditions, succulents also make wonderful houseplants, adding unique interest to any style.
Growing Beautiful Succulents
Succulents exhibit a number of survival tactics, which allows them to adapt easily to their particular environment. For instance, they will go dormant in times of excessive heat or dryness as well as during extreme cold spells. They also have the ability to adapt to areas of the home having little light, making them excellent candidates for nearly any location. Container-grown succulents make excellent indoor gardens. Growing succulents indoors will not only spruce up the home but will offer more flexibility as to both decorating and gardening options for those having little space. As these plants are highly adaptable, there are unlimited possibilities when designing your exotic indoor succulent garden. Nearly any type of container is suitable for growing exotic succulents as long as adequate drainage is provided. The exotic succulent garden will occasionally require significant watering; however, make sure that everything has dried thoroughly between watering intervals. Although these plants are easily adaptable, never allow them to stand in water for extended periods. When succulents are left in waterlogged soil, their roots will rot, and they will die. Different textures and heights will give the exotic succulent garden depth and further interest as will topping the potted delights with small stones or pebbles.
Types of Succulent Plants
Some of the most common succulent plants include: Sedum Hens and chicks Snake plant Jade Aloe Agave Kalanchoe Many people are unaware of the fact that cacti are also considered succulents. Cacti also come in many varieties and can be quite beautiful, providing outstanding flowers, additional interest and character to the home. When it comes to the unusual, succulents are definitely the way to go. Outside of the most commonly grown, these exotic succulents are sure to please, making exceptional specimens indoors: Black Aeonium is a dramatic succulent tree, reaching 3 feet in height. It makes an excellent focal point due to its height as well as its blackish leaves and large, yellow flowers. Aeoniums are easy to grow. Exotic succulents for hanging baskets also make great focal points. Two noteworthy plants include the string of beads, which produces a string of trailing stems with pea-like beaded leaves and sweet-scented white flowers. The rat’s tail cactus is another. This hanging exotic has long, spiked leaves with bright pink blooms. If you’re looking for something a little different, then the living stone is for you. Its conical shape actually mimics the look of pebbles. And just when you’ve thought you’ve seen it all, beautiful white blooms come bursting out from within its centers. Another interesting and somewhat unusual plant is the moonstone. This succulent also resembles stones with its light green to white colored, egg-shaped foliage, which may be flushed with lavender blue as well. If that’s not enough, the spikes of orange-red flowers are sure to impress. The starfish cactus is also quite impressive with clusters of toothed stems and star-shaped blooms in mosaic patterns. The curious looking carrion flower is a clump-forming succulent with sharp-angled stems that are grayish-green in color. The plant also produces an unusual creamy yellow flower with specks of red. The rose pincushion is great for anyone new to growing cacti. This free-flowering cactus is compact, like a little ball, and produces lovely rose-pink blooms. The golden ball cactus also resembles a ball, at first anyway. This odd little plant eventually grows into a fat, gold-spined column with pale yellow blooms. If you’re into something outside of the norm or just limited on space, exotic succulents are ideal plants to consider for maintaining interest indoors.
Growing Beautiful Succulents
Succulents exhibit a number of survival tactics, which allows them to adapt easily to their particular environment. For instance, they will go dormant in times of excessive heat or dryness as well as during extreme cold spells. They also have the ability to adapt to areas of the home having little light, making them excellent candidates for nearly any location. Container-grown succulents make excellent indoor gardens. Growing succulents indoors will not only spruce up the home but will offer more flexibility as to both decorating and gardening options for those having little space. As these plants are highly adaptable, there are unlimited possibilities when designing your exotic indoor succulent garden. Nearly any type of container is suitable for growing exotic succulents as long as adequate drainage is provided. The exotic succulent garden will occasionally require significant watering; however, make sure that everything has dried thoroughly between watering intervals. Although these plants are easily adaptable, never allow them to stand in water for extended periods. When succulents are left in waterlogged soil, their roots will rot, and they will die. Different textures and heights will give the exotic succulent garden depth and further interest as will topping the potted delights with small stones or pebbles.
Types of Succulent Plants
Some of the most common succulent plants include: Sedum Hens and chicks Snake plant Jade Aloe Agave Kalanchoe Many people are unaware of the fact that cacti are also considered succulents. Cacti also come in many varieties and can be quite beautiful, providing outstanding flowers, additional interest and character to the home. When it comes to the unusual, succulents are definitely the way to go. Outside of the most commonly grown, these exotic succulents are sure to please, making exceptional specimens indoors: Black Aeonium is a dramatic succulent tree, reaching 3 feet in height. It makes an excellent focal point due to its height as well as its blackish leaves and large, yellow flowers. Aeoniums are easy to grow. Exotic succulents for hanging baskets also make great focal points. Two noteworthy plants include the string of beads, which produces a string of trailing stems with pea-like beaded leaves and sweet-scented white flowers. The rat’s tail cactus is another. This hanging exotic has long, spiked leaves with bright pink blooms. If you’re looking for something a little different, then the living stone is for you. Its conical shape actually mimics the look of pebbles. And just when you’ve thought you’ve seen it all, beautiful white blooms come bursting out from within its centers. Another interesting and somewhat unusual plant is the moonstone. This succulent also resembles stones with its light green to white colored, egg-shaped foliage, which may be flushed with lavender blue as well. If that’s not enough, the spikes of orange-red flowers are sure to impress. The starfish cactus is also quite impressive with clusters of toothed stems and star-shaped blooms in mosaic patterns. The curious looking carrion flower is a clump-forming succulent with sharp-angled stems that are grayish-green in color. The plant also produces an unusual creamy yellow flower with specks of red. The rose pincushion is great for anyone new to growing cacti. This free-flowering cactus is compact, like a little ball, and produces lovely rose-pink blooms. The golden ball cactus also resembles a ball, at first anyway. This odd little plant eventually grows into a fat, gold-spined column with pale yellow blooms. If you’re into something outside of the norm or just limited on space, exotic succulents are ideal plants to consider for maintaining interest indoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月22日
Goosegrass (Galium aparine) is an annual weed found in warm season turf grasses. The grass seeds readily and spreads on the wind from lawn to lawn. Find answers to what is goosegrass and learn how to control it in order to grow a healthier lawn. The methods on how to kill goosegrass range from cultural to herbicidal. Goosegrass weed control is essential because the rapidly spreading plant can take over entire areas of the lawn.
What is Goosegrass?
If you have identified the splayed tufts of grass with numerous finger-like blades in your lawn, you will need to investigate how to kill goosegrass. The plant can become established even in hard, compacted soils and is very resilient. The thick leaf blades are difficult to cut with a mower and even after a close trim, lawn grass will look ragged and unkempt if goosegrass is present. The plant is most obvious in warm summer periods, but may persist into winter in temperate zones. The thick, rough blades radiate from a central area in spikes of 2 to 13. Each blade is flat with slight serration at the edges. The color is emerald green with older blades bearing a touch of white on damaged edges.
Control of Goosegrass in Lawns
Controlling goosegrass is essential to an attractive lawn. The tough plant requires vigilance to keep the seed heads from forming. Keep your mower blades very sharp so they can remove the inflorescences before they seed. Overwatering and extreme culture can promote the growth of the weed. Patchy lawns and areas with heavy foot traffic will have the highest populations of goosegrass. Control of goosegrass in lawns relies upon proper maintenance first and pre-emergent or post emergent chemicals for flare ups. One simple way to help prevent the weed is by aerating. Aeration increases the porosity of the ground and discourages the formation of goosegrass.
Goosegrass Weed Control
There are several pre-emergence herbicides available for controlling goosegrass. Pendimethalin, dithiopyr and prodiamine are a few chemicals that are useful in combating the weed. They are either used singly or with other chemicals. The correct formula will depend upon what type of sod is in your lawn. Post emergence herbicides, such as glyphosate (Round-up), are useful as spot applications and can be used repeatedly during the season to control the weeds before they seed. Be sure to consult the label of the product you choose for goosegrass weed control.
How to Kill Goosegrass
Follow all recommended precautions on the product you use to control the weed. Most herbicides need to be applied when there is a dry period to prevent the product from rinsing off of grass blades. If you are using a spray application for control of goosegrass in lawns, apply it on a windless day to prevent drift that can kill non-target plants. Pre-emergent herbicides work best if applied in late winter to early spring when soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.) for 24 days in a row.
What is Goosegrass?
If you have identified the splayed tufts of grass with numerous finger-like blades in your lawn, you will need to investigate how to kill goosegrass. The plant can become established even in hard, compacted soils and is very resilient. The thick leaf blades are difficult to cut with a mower and even after a close trim, lawn grass will look ragged and unkempt if goosegrass is present. The plant is most obvious in warm summer periods, but may persist into winter in temperate zones. The thick, rough blades radiate from a central area in spikes of 2 to 13. Each blade is flat with slight serration at the edges. The color is emerald green with older blades bearing a touch of white on damaged edges.
Control of Goosegrass in Lawns
Controlling goosegrass is essential to an attractive lawn. The tough plant requires vigilance to keep the seed heads from forming. Keep your mower blades very sharp so they can remove the inflorescences before they seed. Overwatering and extreme culture can promote the growth of the weed. Patchy lawns and areas with heavy foot traffic will have the highest populations of goosegrass. Control of goosegrass in lawns relies upon proper maintenance first and pre-emergent or post emergent chemicals for flare ups. One simple way to help prevent the weed is by aerating. Aeration increases the porosity of the ground and discourages the formation of goosegrass.
Goosegrass Weed Control
There are several pre-emergence herbicides available for controlling goosegrass. Pendimethalin, dithiopyr and prodiamine are a few chemicals that are useful in combating the weed. They are either used singly or with other chemicals. The correct formula will depend upon what type of sod is in your lawn. Post emergence herbicides, such as glyphosate (Round-up), are useful as spot applications and can be used repeatedly during the season to control the weeds before they seed. Be sure to consult the label of the product you choose for goosegrass weed control.
How to Kill Goosegrass
Follow all recommended precautions on the product you use to control the weed. Most herbicides need to be applied when there is a dry period to prevent the product from rinsing off of grass blades. If you are using a spray application for control of goosegrass in lawns, apply it on a windless day to prevent drift that can kill non-target plants. Pre-emergent herbicides work best if applied in late winter to early spring when soil temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 C.) for 24 days in a row.
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