文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月25日
The tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) is a summer vegetable in the nightshade family. All tomatoes fall into one of two categories: determinate or indeterminate. Determinate tomatoes only grow to a certain size and produce a certain number of fruits, depending on the variety. Indeterminate tomatoes continue to grow vines and produce fruit for as long as conditions are favorable. Regardless of the difference in growth patterns, all tomatoes must be fertilized and are susceptible to the same pests, disease and frost damage.
Tomato Characteristics
Tomatoes come in many shapes, sizes and colors. Tomato sizes are characterized by weight and fall into three categories: beefsteak, cherry and grape. Beefsteak tomatoes can grow quite large at over 16 ounces, while small grape tomatoes mature to as little as 2 ounces. Some tomatoes are perfectly round while others, like roma varieties, are long and narrow, similar to a pepper. Oxheart varieties are heart-shaped with a pointed blossom end. Tomato colors include a wide range from white to black. Red and pink are the most common options, but purple and black varieties have gained popularity, particularly in specialty markets. Other colors include yellow, orange, green and various colors of stripes.
All tomato plants have green leaves and stems. Some small determinate patio varieties reach a maximum of 1- to 2-feet tall, while some indeterminate varieties can grow vines over 12-feet long in one growing season. Always read the plant description carefully before making a decision on variety.
Watch for Spring Frosts
Frost will kill a tomato plant, so have a plan in place in case there is a chance of a late spring frost after seedlings have been planted. Cut the bottom off milk jugs to create a mini-greenhouse to provide frost protection on a chilly late-spring night.
Because tomatoes are generally grown as annuals throughout the U.S. -- though they can be grown as tender perennials in -- all fruits should be harvested before the first expected frost in the fall.
Fertilization and Water Needs
Tomatoes are heavy feeders. After transplanting young seedlings, apply 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 granular fertilizer per plant. With a rake, work it into the top few inches of soil in a circle all the way around the plant, out to 1 foot from the stem. Do not go deep enough to damage plant roots.
When the first tomatoes have reached the size of golf-balls, or reach half their mature size for smaller varieties, add 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 fertilizer per plant again. Reapply fertilizer three weeks later, and again after another three weeks.
Always water thoroughly after fertilizing and make sure fertilizer does not touch leaves or stems. Do not apply fertilizer to plants that are stressed due to drought or heat.
Water plants any time the soil is dry 1-inch below the soil surface. Infrequent, thorough watering is better than frequent light watering because this allows water to reach plant roots more effectively.
Support and Pruning
Small, determinate tomato varieties can be sufficiently supported by tying the main stem to a stake or using a standard three-ring tomato cage. Larger indeterminate varieties require more significant support. Make a sturdy, long-lasting tomato cage out of concrete remesh, available in sheets from many home improvement stores.
Determinate varieties should not be pruned unless they have damaged branches, which should be removed 1/4-inch from the main stem with sharp, sterilized pruning shears -- sterilize tools with an alcohol wipe between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Indeterminate varieties benefit from some pruning, especially if they outgrow their supports. Remove overgrown branches as needed to prevent broken stems due to fruit that is too heavy to support.
Managing Pests
Aphids are tiny white or green insects that cover leaves, stems and blooms. Knock aphids off of tomato plants with a shot of water from a hose. If a severe infestation occurs, spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap once per day as needed, thoroughly covering all leaves and stems.
Hornworms are thick caterpillars that grow to about 4 inches long. These pests can eat all the leaves off tomato plants overnight. Remove hornworms by picking them off plants as soon as they are seen. For a severe infestation of hornworms, apply a solution of Bacillis thuringiensis to the leaves of tomato plants in the evening; mix about 1 tablespoon Bt per gallon of water, but always follow your brand's label instructions. Reapply each night as long as hornworms are present. Store Bt out of reach of children and pets.
Banishing Blight
Tomatoes are not particularly prone to disease, but yellow and brown leaves close to the ground may indicate blight. The only way to control blight is to remove damaged leaves as soon as they are visible. Burn leaves or put them in the garbage. Never compost diseased leaves. To prevent blight, select a blight-resistant variety and practice crop rotation by planting tomatoes in a different spot each year.
Tomato Characteristics
Tomatoes come in many shapes, sizes and colors. Tomato sizes are characterized by weight and fall into three categories: beefsteak, cherry and grape. Beefsteak tomatoes can grow quite large at over 16 ounces, while small grape tomatoes mature to as little as 2 ounces. Some tomatoes are perfectly round while others, like roma varieties, are long and narrow, similar to a pepper. Oxheart varieties are heart-shaped with a pointed blossom end. Tomato colors include a wide range from white to black. Red and pink are the most common options, but purple and black varieties have gained popularity, particularly in specialty markets. Other colors include yellow, orange, green and various colors of stripes.
All tomato plants have green leaves and stems. Some small determinate patio varieties reach a maximum of 1- to 2-feet tall, while some indeterminate varieties can grow vines over 12-feet long in one growing season. Always read the plant description carefully before making a decision on variety.
Watch for Spring Frosts
Frost will kill a tomato plant, so have a plan in place in case there is a chance of a late spring frost after seedlings have been planted. Cut the bottom off milk jugs to create a mini-greenhouse to provide frost protection on a chilly late-spring night.
Because tomatoes are generally grown as annuals throughout the U.S. -- though they can be grown as tender perennials in -- all fruits should be harvested before the first expected frost in the fall.
Fertilization and Water Needs
Tomatoes are heavy feeders. After transplanting young seedlings, apply 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 granular fertilizer per plant. With a rake, work it into the top few inches of soil in a circle all the way around the plant, out to 1 foot from the stem. Do not go deep enough to damage plant roots.
When the first tomatoes have reached the size of golf-balls, or reach half their mature size for smaller varieties, add 1 tablespoon of 10-10-10 fertilizer per plant again. Reapply fertilizer three weeks later, and again after another three weeks.
Always water thoroughly after fertilizing and make sure fertilizer does not touch leaves or stems. Do not apply fertilizer to plants that are stressed due to drought or heat.
Water plants any time the soil is dry 1-inch below the soil surface. Infrequent, thorough watering is better than frequent light watering because this allows water to reach plant roots more effectively.
Support and Pruning
Small, determinate tomato varieties can be sufficiently supported by tying the main stem to a stake or using a standard three-ring tomato cage. Larger indeterminate varieties require more significant support. Make a sturdy, long-lasting tomato cage out of concrete remesh, available in sheets from many home improvement stores.
Determinate varieties should not be pruned unless they have damaged branches, which should be removed 1/4-inch from the main stem with sharp, sterilized pruning shears -- sterilize tools with an alcohol wipe between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Indeterminate varieties benefit from some pruning, especially if they outgrow their supports. Remove overgrown branches as needed to prevent broken stems due to fruit that is too heavy to support.
Managing Pests
Aphids are tiny white or green insects that cover leaves, stems and blooms. Knock aphids off of tomato plants with a shot of water from a hose. If a severe infestation occurs, spray ready-to-use insecticidal soap once per day as needed, thoroughly covering all leaves and stems.
Hornworms are thick caterpillars that grow to about 4 inches long. These pests can eat all the leaves off tomato plants overnight. Remove hornworms by picking them off plants as soon as they are seen. For a severe infestation of hornworms, apply a solution of Bacillis thuringiensis to the leaves of tomato plants in the evening; mix about 1 tablespoon Bt per gallon of water, but always follow your brand's label instructions. Reapply each night as long as hornworms are present. Store Bt out of reach of children and pets.
Banishing Blight
Tomatoes are not particularly prone to disease, but yellow and brown leaves close to the ground may indicate blight. The only way to control blight is to remove damaged leaves as soon as they are visible. Burn leaves or put them in the garbage. Never compost diseased leaves. To prevent blight, select a blight-resistant variety and practice crop rotation by planting tomatoes in a different spot each year.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月25日
If you have a vegetable garden or are thinking of starting one, tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are likely on your list of plants to grow. If you're looking for a variety that has flavorful, all-purpose fruits, a tomato called "Better Boy" could be the perfect choice. An indeterminate plant that keeps growing all season long, this plant thrives in strong light and good garden soil, with just a little extra care ensuring a heavy yield. Tomatoes are grown as annuals in all parts of the United States.
Planting Seedlings
Sow "Better Boy" seeds indoors about six or eight weeks before you expect outdoor temperature to stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit at night, using moist sterile potting soil or soil-less mix. Cover seeds with 1/8 inch of mix and, once seedlings appear, keep them in a sunny spot or under fluorescent grow lights. You can also buy seedlings at a garden center but, in either case, harden plants off for a week or two by gradually increasing their exposure to outdoor air and light.
Space "Better Boy" seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart , with 4 feet between rows. Remove the bottom two leaves from each plant and plant in a deep hole, so that these leaf nodes are covered by soil. Planting deep encourages rooting from the stem, making a well-seated plant.
Sun, Soil and Water
"Better Boy" tomatoes thrive and fruit heavily when grown in a spot that gets full sun, with six hours of sun a minimum for good results. They also need fertile soil. When planting, add 2 or 3 inches of compost to the bottom of each hole, along with a handful of bonemeal. Tomatoes also need magnesium for a good start; add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts to each hole to provide this mineral.
Water the seedlings in well and then water evenly during the season, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. To prevent fungal problems, water early on sunny days so plants dry quickly, and use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to help keep foliage dry.
Feeding and Pruning
It takes about 70 days to get the first ripe "Better Boy" tomatoes, but feeding the plants is important for a good harvest. Start fertilizing when the first fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, and then feed again when harvest begins. Use a low-nitrogen formula such as 5-10-5, side-dressing each plant with about 1/2 cup of the granular fertilizer, but turn the fertilizer into the soil gently to avoid disturbing roots.
"Better Boy" is an indeterminate variety that grows all season long, so it benefits from pruning to maximize fruiting and keep its size under control. As the plant grows, allow only one or two main stems to grow and remove suckers -- shoots appearing where each leaf originates -- to funnel the plant's energy into fruiting, using shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of disease. Also, help the plant produce the last ripe fruits by cutting back its fruitless top near the end of summer.
Support and Possible Problems
"Better Boy" is a heavy producer, with individual fruits weighing up to 1 pound each, so they benefit from support while growing. Either drive a sturdy stake into the ground, using soft ties to attach the stem to the stake at intervals, or use a commercial tomato cage for support, tying the plant to its wire as needed.
These plants are susceptible to fungal disorders and fruit cracking, but ensuring constant, even moisture and giving plants lots of space in well-drained soil helps avoid these problems. They can attract pests such as large green hornworms and striped potato beetles, which can be hand-picked, and aphids, which are best controlled by washing plants with a strong water stream.
Planting Seedlings
Sow "Better Boy" seeds indoors about six or eight weeks before you expect outdoor temperature to stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit at night, using moist sterile potting soil or soil-less mix. Cover seeds with 1/8 inch of mix and, once seedlings appear, keep them in a sunny spot or under fluorescent grow lights. You can also buy seedlings at a garden center but, in either case, harden plants off for a week or two by gradually increasing their exposure to outdoor air and light.
Space "Better Boy" seedlings 2 to 3 feet apart , with 4 feet between rows. Remove the bottom two leaves from each plant and plant in a deep hole, so that these leaf nodes are covered by soil. Planting deep encourages rooting from the stem, making a well-seated plant.
Sun, Soil and Water
"Better Boy" tomatoes thrive and fruit heavily when grown in a spot that gets full sun, with six hours of sun a minimum for good results. They also need fertile soil. When planting, add 2 or 3 inches of compost to the bottom of each hole, along with a handful of bonemeal. Tomatoes also need magnesium for a good start; add 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts to each hole to provide this mineral.
Water the seedlings in well and then water evenly during the season, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. To prevent fungal problems, water early on sunny days so plants dry quickly, and use a soaker hose or drip irrigation to help keep foliage dry.
Feeding and Pruning
It takes about 70 days to get the first ripe "Better Boy" tomatoes, but feeding the plants is important for a good harvest. Start fertilizing when the first fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, and then feed again when harvest begins. Use a low-nitrogen formula such as 5-10-5, side-dressing each plant with about 1/2 cup of the granular fertilizer, but turn the fertilizer into the soil gently to avoid disturbing roots.
"Better Boy" is an indeterminate variety that grows all season long, so it benefits from pruning to maximize fruiting and keep its size under control. As the plant grows, allow only one or two main stems to grow and remove suckers -- shoots appearing where each leaf originates -- to funnel the plant's energy into fruiting, using shears that you wipe with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spread of disease. Also, help the plant produce the last ripe fruits by cutting back its fruitless top near the end of summer.
Support and Possible Problems
"Better Boy" is a heavy producer, with individual fruits weighing up to 1 pound each, so they benefit from support while growing. Either drive a sturdy stake into the ground, using soft ties to attach the stem to the stake at intervals, or use a commercial tomato cage for support, tying the plant to its wire as needed.
These plants are susceptible to fungal disorders and fruit cracking, but ensuring constant, even moisture and giving plants lots of space in well-drained soil helps avoid these problems. They can attract pests such as large green hornworms and striped potato beetles, which can be hand-picked, and aphids, which are best controlled by washing plants with a strong water stream.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are tender plants that can't withstand a heavy frost, but slightly frosted plants may recover. Usually grown as annual plants, tomatoes can grow year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11. At 40 degrees Fahrenheit and lower temperatures, tomato plants' leaves, stems and fruits suffer damage, but you can help save the plants by protecting them from further frosts.
Saving Young Plants
Young tomato plants are especially vulnerable to cold weather. Signs of frost damage include soft and discolored stems and leaves, and sunken leaf spots that are tan to brown. The spots usually appear between leaf veins. If the damage isn't extensive -- affecting only leaves' outer edges for example, then the plants probably will recover. Move the plants to a frost-free area if they're in containers, and cover plants in the ground with sheets of fabric if more frosts threaten. If the stems below the lowest leaves are discolored and soft, then little hope exists for the plants. Discard them and immediately sow or buy new tomato plants for a crop that year.
Rescuing Mature Plants
You may be able to save mature tomato plants that suffered a late frost. The average annual last frost date is only a rough guide to when to expect the late frost, and sometimes late spring or early summer frosts catch gardeners by surprise. If your mature tomato plants have frost damage, inspect them carefully. Those that collapsed completely can't be saved, and you may have to rely on kind neighbors for homegrown tomato fruits that year. If, however, your mature plants are still standing, tidy them by removing their frost-damaged leaves. Pinch or prune them at the nearest point where healthy tissue begins. Wipe the blades of the pruning shears in rubbing alcohol before and after pruning to help prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
Protecting Them from Frosts
If your tomato plants survived a light frost, then keeping an eye on the weather forecast and protecting them the next time frost is expected should be worth the effort. Water the tomato plants' soil the evening before a frost, and cover the plants with newspapers, old bedsheets, fabric tarps, floating rows covers or a similar material before the sun sets. Spread the material over the tomato plants' stakes, and don't allow the material to touch the plants because touching reduces the level of frost protection. An option to protect young tomato plants is to wash and cut the tops off plastic milk containers and place the containers over the plants before the night's frost. Remove the containers the following morning when the frost has thawed; doing so will prevent the young plants from heating in the sun's rays.
Harvesting Tomatoes After a Frost
The growing season for tomato plants is a few short months in some areas of the United States, but you can harvest tomato fruits up to and just after the first fall frost. Tomato plants produce best when daytime temperatures are 70 to 75 F during the day and 65 to 68 F at night. At temperatures below 60 F, production slows or stops, and the plants don't grow or produce when temperatures are cold enough to develop frosts. After the first fall frost, harvest all the fruits. Cut off all the fruits' frost-damaged parts and eat the undamaged portions fresh, or save undamaged fruits to eat as green tomatoes or to allow to ripen. Green tomatoes will ripen when spread in a single layer in a dark, airy location where the temperature doesn't fall below 55 F. Fruits from a frosted tomato plant shouldn't be canned because they may be unsafe.
Saving Young Plants
Young tomato plants are especially vulnerable to cold weather. Signs of frost damage include soft and discolored stems and leaves, and sunken leaf spots that are tan to brown. The spots usually appear between leaf veins. If the damage isn't extensive -- affecting only leaves' outer edges for example, then the plants probably will recover. Move the plants to a frost-free area if they're in containers, and cover plants in the ground with sheets of fabric if more frosts threaten. If the stems below the lowest leaves are discolored and soft, then little hope exists for the plants. Discard them and immediately sow or buy new tomato plants for a crop that year.
Rescuing Mature Plants
You may be able to save mature tomato plants that suffered a late frost. The average annual last frost date is only a rough guide to when to expect the late frost, and sometimes late spring or early summer frosts catch gardeners by surprise. If your mature tomato plants have frost damage, inspect them carefully. Those that collapsed completely can't be saved, and you may have to rely on kind neighbors for homegrown tomato fruits that year. If, however, your mature plants are still standing, tidy them by removing their frost-damaged leaves. Pinch or prune them at the nearest point where healthy tissue begins. Wipe the blades of the pruning shears in rubbing alcohol before and after pruning to help prevent the spread of pests and diseases.
Protecting Them from Frosts
If your tomato plants survived a light frost, then keeping an eye on the weather forecast and protecting them the next time frost is expected should be worth the effort. Water the tomato plants' soil the evening before a frost, and cover the plants with newspapers, old bedsheets, fabric tarps, floating rows covers or a similar material before the sun sets. Spread the material over the tomato plants' stakes, and don't allow the material to touch the plants because touching reduces the level of frost protection. An option to protect young tomato plants is to wash and cut the tops off plastic milk containers and place the containers over the plants before the night's frost. Remove the containers the following morning when the frost has thawed; doing so will prevent the young plants from heating in the sun's rays.
Harvesting Tomatoes After a Frost
The growing season for tomato plants is a few short months in some areas of the United States, but you can harvest tomato fruits up to and just after the first fall frost. Tomato plants produce best when daytime temperatures are 70 to 75 F during the day and 65 to 68 F at night. At temperatures below 60 F, production slows or stops, and the plants don't grow or produce when temperatures are cold enough to develop frosts. After the first fall frost, harvest all the fruits. Cut off all the fruits' frost-damaged parts and eat the undamaged portions fresh, or save undamaged fruits to eat as green tomatoes or to allow to ripen. Green tomatoes will ripen when spread in a single layer in a dark, airy location where the temperature doesn't fall below 55 F. Fruits from a frosted tomato plant shouldn't be canned because they may be unsafe.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Tomatoes from your own plant taste so much better than anything you purchase at a grocery store. You do not need to have a garden, or even a plot of land, to grow a tomato plant. You can even grow tomatoes on your screened porch.
Growing Tomatoes in Containers
Growing tomato plants in containers that have drainage holes is often better than growing them in the ground. That is because you can make sure of the quality of the soil, the level of watering required and can monitor and eliminate pests.
Screened porches can be an ideal location for your tomato plants, particularly if you live in a region that gets intense heat during the summer, which tomatoes do not tolerate well. One of the most important considerations when contemplating growing your tomatoes on a screened porch is the amount and quality of sunlight the area receives. Tomatoes need at least six hours of sun per day. If your screened porch is on the shady side of your home or has wide, overhanging eaves that prevent sunlight from entering any part of your porch, your tomato plants will not flourish. The opposite is also true if your screened in porch receives too much hot, intense sunlight, such as at midday. Your tomatoes may wilt or become sunburned. In this case, you may need to partially shade your porch where your tomato plants will grow.
Another consideration deals with pollination so your plant will produce tomatoes. Tomato plants do not need bees and such to pollinate; each plant has both male and female flowers. But the plant does require that there is at least slight breezes or air movement to allow the pollen to travel from one flower to the other. If you are lacking in breezes, you can always gently shake your plants every day or so to simulate this.
Selecting the right variety of tomato can help in growing tomatoes successfully on your screened porch. The preferred type is called a patio tomato because they have been formulated to grow in containers and produce an abundance of fruit. But other varieties can also successfully be grown on your porch. From cherry tomatoes to the beefsteak variety, many types can be grown in containers. Visit your local garden center, describe your location, particularly the light, and what you want to use the tomatoes for, to a salesperson and let her assist you in selecting the right plants.
Growing Tomatoes in Containers
Growing tomato plants in containers that have drainage holes is often better than growing them in the ground. That is because you can make sure of the quality of the soil, the level of watering required and can monitor and eliminate pests.
Screened porches can be an ideal location for your tomato plants, particularly if you live in a region that gets intense heat during the summer, which tomatoes do not tolerate well. One of the most important considerations when contemplating growing your tomatoes on a screened porch is the amount and quality of sunlight the area receives. Tomatoes need at least six hours of sun per day. If your screened porch is on the shady side of your home or has wide, overhanging eaves that prevent sunlight from entering any part of your porch, your tomato plants will not flourish. The opposite is also true if your screened in porch receives too much hot, intense sunlight, such as at midday. Your tomatoes may wilt or become sunburned. In this case, you may need to partially shade your porch where your tomato plants will grow.
Another consideration deals with pollination so your plant will produce tomatoes. Tomato plants do not need bees and such to pollinate; each plant has both male and female flowers. But the plant does require that there is at least slight breezes or air movement to allow the pollen to travel from one flower to the other. If you are lacking in breezes, you can always gently shake your plants every day or so to simulate this.
Selecting the right variety of tomato can help in growing tomatoes successfully on your screened porch. The preferred type is called a patio tomato because they have been formulated to grow in containers and produce an abundance of fruit. But other varieties can also successfully be grown on your porch. From cherry tomatoes to the beefsteak variety, many types can be grown in containers. Visit your local garden center, describe your location, particularly the light, and what you want to use the tomatoes for, to a salesperson and let her assist you in selecting the right plants.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月22日
Biting into a sweet, succulent cherry tomato is one of the joys of summer, and somehow it tastes even better when you grew it yourself. Cherry tomatoes are not difficult to grow in a home garden, but just because cherry tomatoes are petite doesn't mean the plants are; like many tomato cultivars, some cherry tomato plants have a tendency to sprawl, and there are many good reasons to tidy them up. With some basic pruning techniques, you can trim back your cherry tomato plants fairly quickly, and get back to enjoying your summer salad.
Types to Prune
Tomato plants fall into one of two types: determinate and indeterminate. They are determinate if they form a terminal, or top, flower cluster, which is what causes them to stop growing in height. Because they grow to a fixed size and produce a fixed number of cherry tomatoes, determinates should not be pruned, although you should remove the shoots below the first flower cluster. Plants with lateral flower clusters, and no terminal, are indeterminates; their fruit ripens more slowly, and they will keep growing until killed by frost. These are the type of cherry tomato plants which should be pruned. Indeterminate cherry tomato cultivars include Super Sweets, Sweet Million, Large Red Cherry and Yellow Pear; determinate varieties include Tiny Tim and Mountain Belle.
Benefits of Pruning
Prune your indeterminates to maximize the efficiency of photosynthesis and minimize disease. In the process of vigorous growing, they send out "suckers", or shoots, that come from the main stem and can turn into main stems themselves, which send out more shoots. Although this makes the plant produce more fruit, the benefit is outweighed when the main stem can no longer bear the weight and the plant sprawls on the ground. This is not only unsightly but destructive; as fruit falls in the dirt, it is exposed to damage from insects and viruses. On the other hand, a pruned and supported single-stem tomato plant has all its fruit in the air, its leaves exposed to the sun, and flavor-enhancing sugar going to the developing fruit, since the plant is only growing at the tip. The cherry tomatoes will be larger and tastier, and will form more quickly. In addition, the leaves dry off faster when it the plant is pruned and supported, reducing the risk of bacterial and fungal infections.
Pruning Techniques
Prune the cherry tomato plant to one or—at most—two main stems, and remove lower branches to deter splashback reinfection of pathogens left in the dirt from previous years. Pinch the new suckers soon after they appear. The best way to do this is with your fingers, twisting the sucker until it snaps off; this results in a more desirable break from the stem than would occur with the use of scissors. If you've let suckers grow too long and they are hard to snap off manually, use a retractable knife. Avoid sun scald by leaving enough leaves to cover and protect the tomatoes, and prevent fungal infection by never pruning a wet tomato plant. Keep cherry tomatoes free of side stems below the first fruit cluster.
Types to Prune
Tomato plants fall into one of two types: determinate and indeterminate. They are determinate if they form a terminal, or top, flower cluster, which is what causes them to stop growing in height. Because they grow to a fixed size and produce a fixed number of cherry tomatoes, determinates should not be pruned, although you should remove the shoots below the first flower cluster. Plants with lateral flower clusters, and no terminal, are indeterminates; their fruit ripens more slowly, and they will keep growing until killed by frost. These are the type of cherry tomato plants which should be pruned. Indeterminate cherry tomato cultivars include Super Sweets, Sweet Million, Large Red Cherry and Yellow Pear; determinate varieties include Tiny Tim and Mountain Belle.
Benefits of Pruning
Prune your indeterminates to maximize the efficiency of photosynthesis and minimize disease. In the process of vigorous growing, they send out "suckers", or shoots, that come from the main stem and can turn into main stems themselves, which send out more shoots. Although this makes the plant produce more fruit, the benefit is outweighed when the main stem can no longer bear the weight and the plant sprawls on the ground. This is not only unsightly but destructive; as fruit falls in the dirt, it is exposed to damage from insects and viruses. On the other hand, a pruned and supported single-stem tomato plant has all its fruit in the air, its leaves exposed to the sun, and flavor-enhancing sugar going to the developing fruit, since the plant is only growing at the tip. The cherry tomatoes will be larger and tastier, and will form more quickly. In addition, the leaves dry off faster when it the plant is pruned and supported, reducing the risk of bacterial and fungal infections.
Pruning Techniques
Prune the cherry tomato plant to one or—at most—two main stems, and remove lower branches to deter splashback reinfection of pathogens left in the dirt from previous years. Pinch the new suckers soon after they appear. The best way to do this is with your fingers, twisting the sucker until it snaps off; this results in a more desirable break from the stem than would occur with the use of scissors. If you've let suckers grow too long and they are hard to snap off manually, use a retractable knife. Avoid sun scald by leaving enough leaves to cover and protect the tomatoes, and prevent fungal infection by never pruning a wet tomato plant. Keep cherry tomatoes free of side stems below the first fruit cluster.
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成长记
kimberly
2017年11月22日
My Crassula Argentea is starting to grow. Also found some new growth in one of my Sedum Burrito pots. My attempt at propagating Cotyledon Tomentosa variegata has failed.
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Mohamad.hamidizade：Nice good job im love it all cerasulla
文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月21日
Corn is known for growing into over-sized stalks that tower above peoples' heads, so finding corn that is stunted and short can be disheartening to a grower. A few environmental factors can explain corn stalks that won't grow tall, but it's not the end of the world when it comes to harvest. You may still reap a hefty amount of grain from short corn.
Temperature
Corn grows by expanding its internode cells during its late growth stage when it does much of its stretching. The stalk elongates as the internodes grow. While shading can boost this growth, cool temperatures may slow it down by effecting cellular rigidity, stunting the plant's height and foliage for the rest of the season. Fortunately, leaf size at this point will not affect grain size. The new leaves that are emerging at the top of the plant will contribute to grain size, and these will continue to grow if conditions permit. But continued cool weather may slow down leaf development, resulting in fewer leaves and limiting corn's growth.
Soil
Soil compaction can create over-saturated conditions and stunt corn plant growth. Compacted soil restricts root development and disturbs its growth, forcing it into lateral branching. Plants in overly watered soil can also exhibit development and growth issues and appear stunted. Another possible soil problem is nitrogen deficiency. Corn demands a lot of nitrogen. Adding a nitrogen fertilizer to soil to replenish this nutrient may help corn that appears shorter than expected.
Yield
Unless your short corn plants are nutrient-deficient or suffering from excess moisture, short corn stalks should not alter yield amount. As long as the growth problem is related to shorter internodes, it will not affect grain size. Remember that some corn varieties are early hybrids that are ultimately shorter and have smaller yields than full season types.
Growing Corn
Corn is a heavy feeder that loves nitrogen, so it needs well-tilled and fertile soil. The plant prefers soil temperatures of at least 65 to 75 F and night temperatures above 60 F. To protect against cold and frost, install a fabric floating row cover with hoops supporting it. Avoid planting corn in overly moist soil because it can damage and stunt the crop. Planting corn too early or late in the year may reduce the corn's height and yield. The type of hybrid planted plays a large role in growth rate and stalk height as well.
Temperature
Corn grows by expanding its internode cells during its late growth stage when it does much of its stretching. The stalk elongates as the internodes grow. While shading can boost this growth, cool temperatures may slow it down by effecting cellular rigidity, stunting the plant's height and foliage for the rest of the season. Fortunately, leaf size at this point will not affect grain size. The new leaves that are emerging at the top of the plant will contribute to grain size, and these will continue to grow if conditions permit. But continued cool weather may slow down leaf development, resulting in fewer leaves and limiting corn's growth.
Soil
Soil compaction can create over-saturated conditions and stunt corn plant growth. Compacted soil restricts root development and disturbs its growth, forcing it into lateral branching. Plants in overly watered soil can also exhibit development and growth issues and appear stunted. Another possible soil problem is nitrogen deficiency. Corn demands a lot of nitrogen. Adding a nitrogen fertilizer to soil to replenish this nutrient may help corn that appears shorter than expected.
Yield
Unless your short corn plants are nutrient-deficient or suffering from excess moisture, short corn stalks should not alter yield amount. As long as the growth problem is related to shorter internodes, it will not affect grain size. Remember that some corn varieties are early hybrids that are ultimately shorter and have smaller yields than full season types.
Growing Corn
Corn is a heavy feeder that loves nitrogen, so it needs well-tilled and fertile soil. The plant prefers soil temperatures of at least 65 to 75 F and night temperatures above 60 F. To protect against cold and frost, install a fabric floating row cover with hoops supporting it. Avoid planting corn in overly moist soil because it can damage and stunt the crop. Planting corn too early or late in the year may reduce the corn's height and yield. The type of hybrid planted plays a large role in growth rate and stalk height as well.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
If you're interested in growing herbs, consider adding rosemary (Rosmarinus officianalis) to your list. Its delicate foliage is an attractive grayish-green and the plant fills the environment with its herbal aroma. Rosemary is generally easy to grow, but it might develop some problems if it's not given correct conditions or develops disease or pest problems. Catching these problems early can be essential to keep a rosemary plant in tip-top shape.
Not Enough Water
Rosemary grows outdoors year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also makes a good potted houseplant. Native to rocky and sandy Mediterranean regions, it requires excellent drainage to thrive. The plant only needs a modest amount of water and tolerates drought well once established. But like any plant, insufficient water can cause its foliage to wilt; if this happens, test the soil with your fingertip and, if it's dry several inches deep, water the plant well.
If you've caught the problem in time, the plant should revive and be undamaged. In future, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to your fingertip.
Over-Watering and Fungus
A wilting rosemary plant can also indicate over-watering, a situation that tends to promote root rot. If the problem's not corrected, roots become slimy and soft, and stems wilt and eventually die back. Overly wet conditions can promote other fungal problems, such as powdery mildew, a disorder that causes fluffy white fungus to grow on stems and foliage; eventually, these plant parts dry up and die. In either case, trim away damaged parts of the plant, using shears to cut into healthy tissue below the damaged areas. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading disease.
If the plant's soil is wet and soggy, and some roots are affected, remove the plant from the soil, trim off damaged roots and replant the rosemary in fresh soil. You can also dust cut roots and stems with cinnamon, a natural fungicide, to help the plant recover. If all the plant's roots are affected, the problem probably can't be corrected and it's best to discard the plant.
Pest Problems
A rosemary plant can also attract several types of pests. These include aphids, which are soft-bodied greenish pests, and spittlebugs which leave a white, frothy liquid on the plant. Whiteflies, which are tiny whitish flying insects, might also appear. You might also see evidence of spider mites, microscopic pests that leave visible webs covering young leaves and stems. All these pests suck plant juices, causing foliage to wilt, dry up and eventually drop from the plant.
Control a minor infestation by washing them off the plant with a strong stream of water. If an infestation becomes severe, spray the rosemary plant with insecticidal soap until it's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray every week or two, as needed.
Preventing Problems
Planting rosemary in the garden in a spot that gets full sun and has excellent drainage helps prevent problems with fungus. Rosemary can spread to reach a width of 2 to 4 feet, so space multiple plants at least 2 feet apart to ensure good air circulation, which also helps prevent fungal growth. If your soil contains clay and tends to drain slowly, add some coarse sand at planting to improve its drainage, or plant rosemary in a raised bed.
If you grow rosemary indoors as a houseplant ensure the container has a drainage hole, keep it well-spaced from other plants and always let the plant drain well after watering; never let its pot sit in a water-filled saucer.
Whether indoors or in the garden, check plants often for pest problems, because these are best controlled when caught early, before damage is severe.
Not Enough Water
Rosemary grows outdoors year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also makes a good potted houseplant. Native to rocky and sandy Mediterranean regions, it requires excellent drainage to thrive. The plant only needs a modest amount of water and tolerates drought well once established. But like any plant, insufficient water can cause its foliage to wilt; if this happens, test the soil with your fingertip and, if it's dry several inches deep, water the plant well.
If you've caught the problem in time, the plant should revive and be undamaged. In future, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to your fingertip.
Over-Watering and Fungus
A wilting rosemary plant can also indicate over-watering, a situation that tends to promote root rot. If the problem's not corrected, roots become slimy and soft, and stems wilt and eventually die back. Overly wet conditions can promote other fungal problems, such as powdery mildew, a disorder that causes fluffy white fungus to grow on stems and foliage; eventually, these plant parts dry up and die. In either case, trim away damaged parts of the plant, using shears to cut into healthy tissue below the damaged areas. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading disease.
If the plant's soil is wet and soggy, and some roots are affected, remove the plant from the soil, trim off damaged roots and replant the rosemary in fresh soil. You can also dust cut roots and stems with cinnamon, a natural fungicide, to help the plant recover. If all the plant's roots are affected, the problem probably can't be corrected and it's best to discard the plant.
Pest Problems
A rosemary plant can also attract several types of pests. These include aphids, which are soft-bodied greenish pests, and spittlebugs which leave a white, frothy liquid on the plant. Whiteflies, which are tiny whitish flying insects, might also appear. You might also see evidence of spider mites, microscopic pests that leave visible webs covering young leaves and stems. All these pests suck plant juices, causing foliage to wilt, dry up and eventually drop from the plant.
Control a minor infestation by washing them off the plant with a strong stream of water. If an infestation becomes severe, spray the rosemary plant with insecticidal soap until it's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray every week or two, as needed.
Preventing Problems
Planting rosemary in the garden in a spot that gets full sun and has excellent drainage helps prevent problems with fungus. Rosemary can spread to reach a width of 2 to 4 feet, so space multiple plants at least 2 feet apart to ensure good air circulation, which also helps prevent fungal growth. If your soil contains clay and tends to drain slowly, add some coarse sand at planting to improve its drainage, or plant rosemary in a raised bed.
If you grow rosemary indoors as a houseplant ensure the container has a drainage hole, keep it well-spaced from other plants and always let the plant drain well after watering; never let its pot sit in a water-filled saucer.
Whether indoors or in the garden, check plants often for pest problems, because these are best controlled when caught early, before damage is severe.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is generally easy to grow, but sometimes it can have problems. To track down the cause of yellowing leaves on a rosemary plant, check which leaves are yellow. If only some of the leaves are yellow, the problem may be different than if all are yellow. Also check if the leaves are completely yellow or if they have a speckled appearance, which may provide another clue. Proper care of your rosemary plant may be able to save it. If not, knowing what the problem was can help you to have a healthy plant next time.
Nutrient Deficiency
A lack of necessary nutrients can cause a rosemary plant to have yellow leaves. The most common cause of yellow leaves is a lack of iron. The problem may also be caused by insufficient nitrogen, zinc or manganese.
If the problem starts on young leaves and spreads to the old ones, it's likely an iron deficiency. If the first leaves to turn yellow are the oldest ones, it could be nitrogen, zinc or manganese that's missing.
What your rosemary plant most likely needs to correct nutrient deficiency is fertilizer. Add fertilizer every month or two while the plant is growing, but no more than one or two times during winter dormancy. Use a basic water-soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20 with micronutrients and mix 1 teaspoon of fertilizer with 1 gallon of water.
If the soil pH is too high, iron may be present in the soil but your rosemary won't be able to use it. Check the soil pH with a test kit or pH probe. If your soil pH is 7.0 or higher it is too alkaline.
Other imbalances that can cause trouble with the uptake of iron include too much copper, phosphorous, zinc, calcium or manganese. Too little potassium in the plant and too little iron in the soil will also turn leaves yellow. Repot houseplants to resolve such problems. For outdoor rosemary, use a soil test kit and then follow the label's recommendations for the results you get.
Root Rot and Water Problems
While rosemary grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, you can also grow it as a houseplant. Root rot is the most common reason for a yellowing houseplant. If your plant has this condition you'll see stunted yellow leaves as well as overall stunted growth. Rosemary prefers dry soil, and too much water can trigger root rot.
Take a look at the roots by carefully removing the plant from its pot and exposing the roots. Plants with root rot will have at least some black roots and the roots will look slimy. Healthy roots are white and firm. If only a few roots have rot, you may be able to save the plant by increasing drainage and cutting back on watering. Allow the plant to dry out completely between waterings, and don't let it sit in a tray of water at any time.
Spider Mites
If spider mites are feeding on your rosemary, the leaves may be spotted with yellow. If you look closely you may also see webs where the leaves join the stems. Left untreated, these pests can kill your plant. Set your plant in the bathtub or take it outside and wash it down with a forceful spray of water to remove many of the spider mites. Repeat this each week until the problem is gone. Make sure your rosemary isn't getting too dry between waterings, which can increase the chances of spider mite problems.
Improper Lighting
Rosemary plants need full sun, about six to eight hours a day, and indoor plants require plenty of supplemental light. If your plant gets inadequate light it may struggle to survive. The lower leaves on the plant will turn yellow and drop off.
To prevent yellowing and other light-related problems, set your rosemary in a sunny south- or west-facing window where it gets enough sunlight. Supplement as needed with a grow light or standard fluorescent lighting. Place the fluorescent lights about 6 inches above the rosemary and leave them on about 14 hours a day. Use a timer to automate the light turning on and off.
Nutrient Deficiency
A lack of necessary nutrients can cause a rosemary plant to have yellow leaves. The most common cause of yellow leaves is a lack of iron. The problem may also be caused by insufficient nitrogen, zinc or manganese.
If the problem starts on young leaves and spreads to the old ones, it's likely an iron deficiency. If the first leaves to turn yellow are the oldest ones, it could be nitrogen, zinc or manganese that's missing.
What your rosemary plant most likely needs to correct nutrient deficiency is fertilizer. Add fertilizer every month or two while the plant is growing, but no more than one or two times during winter dormancy. Use a basic water-soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20 with micronutrients and mix 1 teaspoon of fertilizer with 1 gallon of water.
If the soil pH is too high, iron may be present in the soil but your rosemary won't be able to use it. Check the soil pH with a test kit or pH probe. If your soil pH is 7.0 or higher it is too alkaline.
Other imbalances that can cause trouble with the uptake of iron include too much copper, phosphorous, zinc, calcium or manganese. Too little potassium in the plant and too little iron in the soil will also turn leaves yellow. Repot houseplants to resolve such problems. For outdoor rosemary, use a soil test kit and then follow the label's recommendations for the results you get.
Root Rot and Water Problems
While rosemary grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, you can also grow it as a houseplant. Root rot is the most common reason for a yellowing houseplant. If your plant has this condition you'll see stunted yellow leaves as well as overall stunted growth. Rosemary prefers dry soil, and too much water can trigger root rot.
Take a look at the roots by carefully removing the plant from its pot and exposing the roots. Plants with root rot will have at least some black roots and the roots will look slimy. Healthy roots are white and firm. If only a few roots have rot, you may be able to save the plant by increasing drainage and cutting back on watering. Allow the plant to dry out completely between waterings, and don't let it sit in a tray of water at any time.
Spider Mites
If spider mites are feeding on your rosemary, the leaves may be spotted with yellow. If you look closely you may also see webs where the leaves join the stems. Left untreated, these pests can kill your plant. Set your plant in the bathtub or take it outside and wash it down with a forceful spray of water to remove many of the spider mites. Repeat this each week until the problem is gone. Make sure your rosemary isn't getting too dry between waterings, which can increase the chances of spider mite problems.
Improper Lighting
Rosemary plants need full sun, about six to eight hours a day, and indoor plants require plenty of supplemental light. If your plant gets inadequate light it may struggle to survive. The lower leaves on the plant will turn yellow and drop off.
To prevent yellowing and other light-related problems, set your rosemary in a sunny south- or west-facing window where it gets enough sunlight. Supplement as needed with a grow light or standard fluorescent lighting. Place the fluorescent lights about 6 inches above the rosemary and leave them on about 14 hours a day. Use a timer to automate the light turning on and off.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) originated in the Mediterranean region, where it adapted to warm temperatures, sandy soil and a dry environment. In warmer areas (zones 7 to 11) it is a perennial and can grow outdoors. Plant rosemary in a pot in colder areas (zones 6 to 2) so it can be brought inside during winter to protect it from the cold. Rosemary prefers slightly alkaline, sandy, well-drained soil so that the roots do not stay wet and it can live up to 20 years when well cared for.
Starting from a Cutting
The fastest way to get a rosemary plant started is from a cutting. Take the cutting from new growth on the parent plant, snipping about 2 to 4 inches from the end of the branch at the end of May or through the month of June. Trim off the bottom leaves and dip the end of the branch in rooting hormone before securing it in the lightly moistened potting soil. Cover the cutting and pot with a plastic bag to keep it in a warm, humid environment, between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight. The cuttings take about two to three weeks to develop roots and new growth, at which point they can be transplanted. Without rooting hormone, the cuttings take about eight weeks to develop roots.
Starting by Layering
Layering is another method used to propagate rosemary quickly, because the branch remains attached to the original plant and continues to receive nutrients from it. Use a branch that easily reaches the ground and remove leaves along a 1-inch section at that point. Secure it to the ground using a landscape pin and cover the section stripped of leaves with dirt. The layered branch develops roots over the course of a few months, recognizable because new growth starts developing at the tip of the branch. At this point, cut the branch from the parent plant and move it to its new location, taking care not to disturb the roots too much.
Starting From Seed
Although it is possible to start rosemary from seed, it is not the recommended method because the germination rate is only about 15 to 30 percent. They can take up to three months to germinate, so start them well before the planting season. Plant the rosemary seeds in a light, sandy potting medium, placing them about 3 inches apart. Spread a thin layer of the potting soil over the seeds and spray them lightly with water to moisten the soil. Cover the seed trays or cups loosely with plastic wrap to keep them moist and place them in a warm area. Once the seedlings start sprouting, they require ample sunlight and continued warmth. Plant them in larger pots or outdoors once there is no threat of frost. Burpee recommends waiting until the seedlings are about 3 inches tall before replanting.
Growing Conditions
Rosemary requires at least six to eight hours of sun a day for optimal growth. The plants reach a mature height of 3 to 5 feet, on average, with a spread of 4 to 5 feet, depending on the exact growing conditions and the specific cultivar. The size and shape can be controlled with pruning. When planted in a pot, rosemary may require transplanting and trimming twice a year because it grows fairly quickly. Once the outdoor temperatures reach about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, move the rosemary indoors to a sunny location with southern exposure and good air circulation to prevent the development of powdery mildew.
Starting from a Cutting
The fastest way to get a rosemary plant started is from a cutting. Take the cutting from new growth on the parent plant, snipping about 2 to 4 inches from the end of the branch at the end of May or through the month of June. Trim off the bottom leaves and dip the end of the branch in rooting hormone before securing it in the lightly moistened potting soil. Cover the cutting and pot with a plastic bag to keep it in a warm, humid environment, between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight. The cuttings take about two to three weeks to develop roots and new growth, at which point they can be transplanted. Without rooting hormone, the cuttings take about eight weeks to develop roots.
Starting by Layering
Layering is another method used to propagate rosemary quickly, because the branch remains attached to the original plant and continues to receive nutrients from it. Use a branch that easily reaches the ground and remove leaves along a 1-inch section at that point. Secure it to the ground using a landscape pin and cover the section stripped of leaves with dirt. The layered branch develops roots over the course of a few months, recognizable because new growth starts developing at the tip of the branch. At this point, cut the branch from the parent plant and move it to its new location, taking care not to disturb the roots too much.
Starting From Seed
Although it is possible to start rosemary from seed, it is not the recommended method because the germination rate is only about 15 to 30 percent. They can take up to three months to germinate, so start them well before the planting season. Plant the rosemary seeds in a light, sandy potting medium, placing them about 3 inches apart. Spread a thin layer of the potting soil over the seeds and spray them lightly with water to moisten the soil. Cover the seed trays or cups loosely with plastic wrap to keep them moist and place them in a warm area. Once the seedlings start sprouting, they require ample sunlight and continued warmth. Plant them in larger pots or outdoors once there is no threat of frost. Burpee recommends waiting until the seedlings are about 3 inches tall before replanting.
Growing Conditions
Rosemary requires at least six to eight hours of sun a day for optimal growth. The plants reach a mature height of 3 to 5 feet, on average, with a spread of 4 to 5 feet, depending on the exact growing conditions and the specific cultivar. The size and shape can be controlled with pruning. When planted in a pot, rosemary may require transplanting and trimming twice a year because it grows fairly quickly. Once the outdoor temperatures reach about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, move the rosemary indoors to a sunny location with southern exposure and good air circulation to prevent the development of powdery mildew.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) naturally grow into short, bushy plants or tall vines, depending on their type. Tomato varieties are classified as determinate, indeterminate, semi-determinate or dwarf indeterminate. Determinate plants, also called bush tomatoes, grow 2 to 3 feet tall, while indeterminate tomatoes are also called vining tomatoes and grow up to 6 feet tall, but can grow as short, bushy plants when their central stems are pruned. Semi-determinate, or semi-bush, varieties grow 3 to 5 feet tall, and dwarf indeterminate, or dwarf vining, plants grow to the same height as bush tomatoes.
Growing Room
Short, bushy tomatoes need deep, moist, fertile soil and plenty of room to grow healthily. Grow bush, vining and other tomato types in full-sun sites and organically rich soil, and space the plants according to the type. Space bush varieties 12 to 24 inches apart and vining varieties 24 to 36 inches apart. If you're growing large plantings of vining tomatoes, space them 24 to 48 inches apart in rows 4 to 5 feet apart. Alternatively space tomatoes according to the final growing dimensions on the seed packet or plant label. For example, space plants of a variety that grows 2 feet wide 2 feet apart.
Water and Fertilizer
For plentiful, disease-free tomatoes, water the plants regularly and apply fertilizer. Tomatoes need 1 inch of water or more per week in dry weather. Avoid wetting the leaves when watering to help prevent leaf diseases, and water deeply but infrequently when the soil surface is dry. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as garden compost, to help conserve soil moisture. When the tomato fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, apply 1/2 cup of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant and work it 1 inch into the soil or mulch surface, taking care to not disturb the plant roots. Apply the same amount of fertilizer when you pick the first fruits.
Pruning and Support
Most tomato varieties can grow as short, bushy plants with the right pruning and support. Bush and dwarf vining varieties don't need pruning because they naturally grow into short bushes, but the plants benefit from a supporting cage. Place a tomato cage over the plants after transplanting them into the soil or a pot. To grow vining and semi-bush tomatoes as short, bushy plants, prune the central stems when the plants reach the desired height. Wipe your pruning shear blades with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune the stems above the second set of leaves that lie beneath stem tips. Tomatoes often produce shoots, called suckers, where the side stems meet the central stem. Prune suckers in the same way when they reach the desired length. Staking is usually recommended for vining tomatoes, but this isn't needed when growing them as short, bushy plants.
Harvest Time
Harvest times for short, bushy tomatoes vary according to the variety. Tomatoes produce a crop about 65 days to 80 days after sowing. Plants that produce crops quickly are called early varieties, Mid-season varieties produce a crop in 65 to 80 days, and late-season varieties fruit in 80 days or more. Bush tomatoes are often grown for canning or freezing because they usually produce their crops within a six-week period, then they stop fruiting and die back. Vining, semi-bush and dwarf vining tomatoes produce crops throughout the growing season.
Growing Room
Short, bushy tomatoes need deep, moist, fertile soil and plenty of room to grow healthily. Grow bush, vining and other tomato types in full-sun sites and organically rich soil, and space the plants according to the type. Space bush varieties 12 to 24 inches apart and vining varieties 24 to 36 inches apart. If you're growing large plantings of vining tomatoes, space them 24 to 48 inches apart in rows 4 to 5 feet apart. Alternatively space tomatoes according to the final growing dimensions on the seed packet or plant label. For example, space plants of a variety that grows 2 feet wide 2 feet apart.
Water and Fertilizer
For plentiful, disease-free tomatoes, water the plants regularly and apply fertilizer. Tomatoes need 1 inch of water or more per week in dry weather. Avoid wetting the leaves when watering to help prevent leaf diseases, and water deeply but infrequently when the soil surface is dry. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as garden compost, to help conserve soil moisture. When the tomato fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, apply 1/2 cup of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant and work it 1 inch into the soil or mulch surface, taking care to not disturb the plant roots. Apply the same amount of fertilizer when you pick the first fruits.
Pruning and Support
Most tomato varieties can grow as short, bushy plants with the right pruning and support. Bush and dwarf vining varieties don't need pruning because they naturally grow into short bushes, but the plants benefit from a supporting cage. Place a tomato cage over the plants after transplanting them into the soil or a pot. To grow vining and semi-bush tomatoes as short, bushy plants, prune the central stems when the plants reach the desired height. Wipe your pruning shear blades with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune the stems above the second set of leaves that lie beneath stem tips. Tomatoes often produce shoots, called suckers, where the side stems meet the central stem. Prune suckers in the same way when they reach the desired length. Staking is usually recommended for vining tomatoes, but this isn't needed when growing them as short, bushy plants.
Harvest Time
Harvest times for short, bushy tomatoes vary according to the variety. Tomatoes produce a crop about 65 days to 80 days after sowing. Plants that produce crops quickly are called early varieties, Mid-season varieties produce a crop in 65 to 80 days, and late-season varieties fruit in 80 days or more. Bush tomatoes are often grown for canning or freezing because they usually produce their crops within a six-week period, then they stop fruiting and die back. Vining, semi-bush and dwarf vining tomatoes produce crops throughout the growing season.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月17日
Tomatoes grow best in temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the University of Georgia Extension. Fortunately, the Peach State has plenty of days with temperatures in this range, making for a relatively long planting season.
Starting Seeds
Georgia tomato seeds can be started indoors in late winter. Begin growing these four to seven weeks before the last frost in your part of the state. In Southern Georgia, you can begin these in early February. If you live in Northern Georgia, you may have to wait until late February or early March.
Planting Seedlings
Plant seedlings from mid-March to early May in Georgia. Those in the southern part of the state can normally plant any time during this period. Gardeners in Northern Georgia, however, should typically plant after mid-April.
Second Planting
Some residents in the southern part of the state can plant a second crop in July. You could also plant tomatoes in a container during this time. Protect the plants by bringing them indoors at night in September and October if you live in the northern part of the state.
Starting Seeds
Georgia tomato seeds can be started indoors in late winter. Begin growing these four to seven weeks before the last frost in your part of the state. In Southern Georgia, you can begin these in early February. If you live in Northern Georgia, you may have to wait until late February or early March.
Planting Seedlings
Plant seedlings from mid-March to early May in Georgia. Those in the southern part of the state can normally plant any time during this period. Gardeners in Northern Georgia, however, should typically plant after mid-April.
Second Planting
Some residents in the southern part of the state can plant a second crop in July. You could also plant tomatoes in a container during this time. Protect the plants by bringing them indoors at night in September and October if you live in the northern part of the state.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月17日
Although easy to grow as an annual in the United States, the tomato plant (Lycopersicon esculentum) is, unfortunately, vulnerable to a wide variety of diseases. Choosing disease-resistant varieties, spacing plants adequately and keeping garden soil free of debris will help to prevent many common problems. Knowing how to spot symptoms of bacterial or fungal infection will make disease identification and control easier.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
Early Blight
This fungal disease is caused by Alternaria solani and triggered by periods of heavy rain combined with increasing temperatures at midseason. Also known as foliar or stem disorder, it is characterized by brownish-black lesions surrounded by halos of yellowing leaf tissue, which together form a bull's-eye pattern. Signs of infection typically appear in older leaves lower on the stem first, followed by angry-looking dark spots near the stem end of the fruit. Address the disease by promptly removing infected leaves, and avoid overwatering container-grown plants or overhead irrigation in the greenhouse, which encourages disease spread. For severe infestations, apply a premixed copper fungicide spray to all parts of the plant every seven to 10 days and again after it rains. Ideally, there should be a 12-hour window of dry weather after each application.
Bacterial Wilt
The Ralstonia solanacearum bacteria invades small breaks in the roots and self-replicates in the cellular walls of the plant, displacing stored water with a white or yellowish slimy substance. The earliest sign of this disease is the wilting of a few lower leaves. As the bacteria spread, the entire plant will be affected and die, often quite suddenly with high temperatures and humidity. There are no chemical controls for this disease, so infected plants must be pulled and destroyed. The best remedy is crop rotation with plants less susceptible to bacterial wilt, such as common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris), cabbage (Brassica oleracea) and corn (Zea mays), for at least three years. Meanwhile, consider growing tomatoes in containers with sterilized potting soil or in a different location in raised beds to improve drainage.
Fusarium Diseases
Fusarium oxysporum is a tomato fungus that causes Fusarium wilt. Symptoms begin with yellowing and drooping of older leaves, sometimes on only one side of the plant. The same fungus is also responsible for Fusarium crown rot, in which leaves turn black and a "canker" appears at the stem base. Infected plants wilt and die because the fungus permeates vascular tissue, where it blocks the conduction of water.
Because there are no fungicides that treat these diseases and the fungus can persist in the soil for two or three years, rotation with a cover crop in the grass family or another vegetable is the only remedy for this garden space. Plants that are less vulnerable to Fusarium include corn, some varieties of peas (Pisum sativum) and romaine lettuce (Lactuca sativa) cultivars. In terms of prevention, try to purchase certified disease-free or Fusarium-resistant tomato plants to start with. Also, increasing the pH of the soil to between 6.5 and 7.0 will deter development of these diseases.
Leaf Mold
Leaf mold, caused by the fungus Passalora fulva, produces yellow lesions on the upper side of older leaves lower to the ground. With high humidity, a grayish velvetlike coating may appear, which consists of fungal spores. Leaf mold may spread to stems, flowers and fruit, producing a black rot at the stem end of tomatoes. Prevention and control involves staking of plants to enhance air circulation and the use of premixed liquid copper fungicide spray. Apply fungicide to the entire plant at the first sign of leaf mold; reapply at seven- to 10-day intervals and after a heavy rain.
Special Considerations
The use of fungicides can be harmful to bees and other pollinating insects, although spraying at night minimizes impact. A time-honored alternative to treating tomato plant diseases is a mixture of 1 part skim milk to 9 parts water applied as a spray every two to three weeks during the growing season. Reconstituted powdered milk may be used instead, but avoid whole milk because the fat may clog the sprayer.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
If you'd like to grow grape tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) but don't have space for a vegetable garden, don't be discouraged. Instead, grow a few plants in containers on a sunny porch or patio. It's relatively easy to enjoy a bountiful harvest from just a few potted plants, if you give them just a bit of special attention to keep the harvest coming.
Getting Started
A grape tomato is a small cherry tomato that's about 1 inch in diameter, the approximate size and shape of a grape. An especially prolific type of tomato, a single plant produces many dozens of fruits when given good growing conditions. Start seeds in trays or pots indoors about six weeks before your last frost date, or purchase seedlings from a nursery center when ready to plant. Either way, harden off seedlings by moving them outdoors for a few extra hours each day, planting them when nighttime temperatures stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
When ready, choose a pot that's at least 20 inches across and 24 inches deep, with one plant for each pot. The pot must have at least one large drainage hole and can be plastic, which tends to dry out slowly, or clay, a more quickly drying material.
Soil, Sun and Water
A potted grape tomato needs loose, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. You can use a high-quality commercial mix, or make your own from equal parts potting soil, compost, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Avoid using garden soil because it likely harbors insect pests or their eggs. Plant one seedling in each pot, setting it deeply so that the soil level is just below the first set of leaves; this stimulates roots to grow from the buried stem, promoting a strong plant.
Keep the pot in full sun for at least six to eight hours of sun daily; if your area has hot summer afternoons, choose a spot that gets sun mostly in the morning. Give the plant regular watering, moistening the soil thoroughly whenever its top inch or two feels dry to your fingertip; aim for at least 1 inch of water each week, including rain.
Supporting and Feeding
Some grape tomatoes, such as "Mighty Sweet," are determinate, reaching a maximum height in midseason; this type becomes naturally bushy and may not need support in its pot. But other indeterminate varieties -- getting taller all season long -- need support in their pot. "Red Pearl" is an example of this type. Use a commercially available tomato cage or a sturdy stake to support this plant, but place the support in the pot before planting, to prevent damaging the plant's roots. Tie the plant to the support at intervals, using soft ties.
Feed the plant regularly to keep it setting fruit for the entire season. The first grape tomatoes are usually ready to harvest about 75 days after planting, so start feeding plants once weekly when you see the first small, green fruits -- usually sometime in July, depending on your climate. Use a balanced, 20-20-20 formula, diluting it at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but also check your product label for additional directions. Wet the soil before feeding to avoid burning roots.
Possible Problems
Grape tomatoes are susceptible to several fungal disorders; these are best prevented by keeping the pot in a well-ventilated area that's not crowded by other plants and by watering the plant at its base early in the day, helping keep foliage dry.
Several pests can also cause problems, including the green tomato hornworm caterpillar and the brown, striped potato beetle; handpick and destroy these. Aphids, tiny, yellowish, soft-bodied insects, and small whiteflies can also feed on and weaken the plant. Control these by spraying with insecticidal soap until the plant's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray as needed.
Getting Started
A grape tomato is a small cherry tomato that's about 1 inch in diameter, the approximate size and shape of a grape. An especially prolific type of tomato, a single plant produces many dozens of fruits when given good growing conditions. Start seeds in trays or pots indoors about six weeks before your last frost date, or purchase seedlings from a nursery center when ready to plant. Either way, harden off seedlings by moving them outdoors for a few extra hours each day, planting them when nighttime temperatures stay above 45 degrees Fahrenheit.
When ready, choose a pot that's at least 20 inches across and 24 inches deep, with one plant for each pot. The pot must have at least one large drainage hole and can be plastic, which tends to dry out slowly, or clay, a more quickly drying material.
Soil, Sun and Water
A potted grape tomato needs loose, well-drained soil that's rich in organic matter. You can use a high-quality commercial mix, or make your own from equal parts potting soil, compost, sphagnum peat moss and perlite. Avoid using garden soil because it likely harbors insect pests or their eggs. Plant one seedling in each pot, setting it deeply so that the soil level is just below the first set of leaves; this stimulates roots to grow from the buried stem, promoting a strong plant.
Keep the pot in full sun for at least six to eight hours of sun daily; if your area has hot summer afternoons, choose a spot that gets sun mostly in the morning. Give the plant regular watering, moistening the soil thoroughly whenever its top inch or two feels dry to your fingertip; aim for at least 1 inch of water each week, including rain.
Supporting and Feeding
Some grape tomatoes, such as "Mighty Sweet," are determinate, reaching a maximum height in midseason; this type becomes naturally bushy and may not need support in its pot. But other indeterminate varieties -- getting taller all season long -- need support in their pot. "Red Pearl" is an example of this type. Use a commercially available tomato cage or a sturdy stake to support this plant, but place the support in the pot before planting, to prevent damaging the plant's roots. Tie the plant to the support at intervals, using soft ties.
Feed the plant regularly to keep it setting fruit for the entire season. The first grape tomatoes are usually ready to harvest about 75 days after planting, so start feeding plants once weekly when you see the first small, green fruits -- usually sometime in July, depending on your climate. Use a balanced, 20-20-20 formula, diluting it at a rate of 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water, but also check your product label for additional directions. Wet the soil before feeding to avoid burning roots.
Possible Problems
Grape tomatoes are susceptible to several fungal disorders; these are best prevented by keeping the pot in a well-ventilated area that's not crowded by other plants and by watering the plant at its base early in the day, helping keep foliage dry.
Several pests can also cause problems, including the green tomato hornworm caterpillar and the brown, striped potato beetle; handpick and destroy these. Aphids, tiny, yellowish, soft-bodied insects, and small whiteflies can also feed on and weaken the plant. Control these by spraying with insecticidal soap until the plant's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray as needed.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年11月16日
Growing strawberries (Fragaria × ananassa) requires some care, but the freshly picked, sweet, juicy fruits are worth the effort. Strawberries grow as perennials in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 5 through 8, and in USDA zones 9 and 10 they're usually grown as cool-season, annual plants. Three kinds of are available: June-bearing, everlasting and day neutral. June-bearing strawberries fruit in early summer, everlasting varieties fruit in spring, summer and fall, and day neutral varieties bear fruit throughout the growing season. All three types grow best in full-sun sites and well-drained soils.
Soil, Light and Spacing
For the largest crop of fruits, grow strawberry plants in soil rich in organic matter and in a site that receives at least six hours of direct light per day. Space June-bearing strawberries 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 4 feet apart, and space everlasting and day neutral varieties 1 foot apart in a bed of two or three rows spaced 1 foot apart. June-bearing strawberries produce shoots called runners that root and grow into new plants on either side of their rows, creating strawberry beds 2 feet wide. Everlasting and day neutral strawberry plants produce few runners and these are removed, so they grow as single plants.
Water and Fertilizer
Moist growing sites and fertilizer encourage strawberries to grow healthily. Strawberries need about 1 inch of water each week when the weather is dry during the growing season. Apply the water to the base of the plants, avoiding the leaves. Over-fertilizing strawberries causes excessive leafy growth at the expense of fruit, but plants benefit from an annual fertilizer application after harvest. Dilute 2 tablespoons of a 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and pour 1 to 2 cups of the solution at the base of each strawberry plant.
Mulch for Strawberries
Strawberries benefit from mulching, which suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and protects plants from frost. Remove weeds from around strawberry plants, and spread a 2-inch layer of an organic mulch such as garden compost or leaf mold, avoiding the plant stems. In areas where fall below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, spread a 3- to 4-inch layer of straw over plants in late fall. In spring, when young, yellow foliage appears, pull mulch away from the plants but replace it when frosts are predicted. Straw mulches can also be spread beneath developing fruit to keep it off the ground.
Strawberry Pruning
General care for strawberries includes pruning blossoms and runners. Pinch the blossoms off June-bearing strawberries in their first season to encourage the plants to develop strong root systems and bear a large crop the following year. Pinch the blossoms off everlasting and day neutral types until early July, which helps the plants establish before putting energy into growing fruit. Prune the runners from everlasting and day neutral plants whenever they appear. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol over the blades, and cut the runners where they join the rest of the plant. Sterilize the shears again when you've finished.
Strawberry Renovation
June-bearing strawberries growing as perennials provide crops for three or four years with annual renovation. After harvest, mow the strawberry beds to remove the old foliage. Set the mower blades to 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the ground. Rake off the leaves, and narrow the beds to 6 to 12 inches wide by digging out plants on both sides, and remove all weeds. Fertilize the strawberry plants with a granular or powder 10-10-10 fertilizer spread at a rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet, and mix the fertilizer lightly into the soil surface. Water the renovated patch for the rest of the growing season, applying 1 inch of water per week during dry weather.
Soil, Light and Spacing
For the largest crop of fruits, grow strawberry plants in soil rich in organic matter and in a site that receives at least six hours of direct light per day. Space June-bearing strawberries 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 4 feet apart, and space everlasting and day neutral varieties 1 foot apart in a bed of two or three rows spaced 1 foot apart. June-bearing strawberries produce shoots called runners that root and grow into new plants on either side of their rows, creating strawberry beds 2 feet wide. Everlasting and day neutral strawberry plants produce few runners and these are removed, so they grow as single plants.
Water and Fertilizer
Moist growing sites and fertilizer encourage strawberries to grow healthily. Strawberries need about 1 inch of water each week when the weather is dry during the growing season. Apply the water to the base of the plants, avoiding the leaves. Over-fertilizing strawberries causes excessive leafy growth at the expense of fruit, but plants benefit from an annual fertilizer application after harvest. Dilute 2 tablespoons of a 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and pour 1 to 2 cups of the solution at the base of each strawberry plant.
Mulch for Strawberries
Strawberries benefit from mulching, which suppresses weeds, conserves soil moisture and protects plants from frost. Remove weeds from around strawberry plants, and spread a 2-inch layer of an organic mulch such as garden compost or leaf mold, avoiding the plant stems. In areas where fall below 20 degrees Fahrenheit, spread a 3- to 4-inch layer of straw over plants in late fall. In spring, when young, yellow foliage appears, pull mulch away from the plants but replace it when frosts are predicted. Straw mulches can also be spread beneath developing fruit to keep it off the ground.
Strawberry Pruning
General care for strawberries includes pruning blossoms and runners. Pinch the blossoms off June-bearing strawberries in their first season to encourage the plants to develop strong root systems and bear a large crop the following year. Pinch the blossoms off everlasting and day neutral types until early July, which helps the plants establish before putting energy into growing fruit. Prune the runners from everlasting and day neutral plants whenever they appear. Sterilize pruning shears by wiping a cloth soaked in rubbing alcohol over the blades, and cut the runners where they join the rest of the plant. Sterilize the shears again when you've finished.
Strawberry Renovation
June-bearing strawberries growing as perennials provide crops for three or four years with annual renovation. After harvest, mow the strawberry beds to remove the old foliage. Set the mower blades to 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the ground. Rake off the leaves, and narrow the beds to 6 to 12 inches wide by digging out plants on both sides, and remove all weeds. Fertilize the strawberry plants with a granular or powder 10-10-10 fertilizer spread at a rate of 1 pound per 100 square feet, and mix the fertilizer lightly into the soil surface. Water the renovated patch for the rest of the growing season, applying 1 inch of water per week during dry weather.
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