文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月22日
Carrots are sweet root vegetables that grow best in the early spring. The produce contains a high amount of vitamin A and fiber. Sometimes harvested carrots may not taste sweet. A bitter-tasting carrot may leave you feeling discouraged about growing your own carrots. Knowing why your carrots taste bitter can help you salvage your crops so that you can enjoy their pleasant and naturally sweet flavor.
High Temperatures
Carrots grow best in temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit because they are cool-season vegetables. According to the University of Missouri, carrots will have a bitter flavor when temperatures reach more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The sugars in the carrots may not have formed or the terpenoids may remain high in the carrots. When temperatures begin to warm outdoors, mulch the carrots to help keep the soil cool. For best results, harvest the carrots as soon as possible.
Aster Yellows Disease
Aster yellows disease can form on carrots due to the aster leafhopper. When the leafhopper feeds on infected plants for an extended time, its saliva becomes inoculated with the pathogens and can spread the disease, according to Missouri Botanical Garden. The carrot leaves may begin to turn yellow, the carrot growth may slow down and the carrot roots may become bitter. The roots will also have fine hairs and lack color. Manage the disease by removing infected carrots and control the insects by covering the crops with mesh fabric. The Missouri Botanical Garden also suggests removing weeds from the garden because they may contain the disease.
Harvesting Too Young
Pulling the carrots out of the ground while they are young and tender may result in a bitter or soapy flavor, according to the World Carrot Museum. Different varieties of carrots can have a higher amount of terpenoids, which will form before the sugars in the carrot. When you harvest the carrots while they are young, they may not contain enough sugar, which results in the bitter taste. Harvest the carrots when they are 1/2 inch in diameter and continue to harvest them throughout the growing season only when they are mature. Most carrots reach maturity within 60 to 70 days after you plant them if the growing conditions are right.
Improper Storage
After you harvest carrots, they need to be stored properly to keep them fresh. Carrots are best stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer away from apples and pears. The Center for Urban Education About Sustainable Agriculture suggests that the release of ethylene gas from these fruits can cause the carrots to have a bitter taste. Trim the tops off the carrots and keep them in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator for three to four weeks. The green tops only last for two to three days on the carrots and need to be stored separately from them.
High Temperatures
Carrots grow best in temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit because they are cool-season vegetables. According to the University of Missouri, carrots will have a bitter flavor when temperatures reach more than 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The sugars in the carrots may not have formed or the terpenoids may remain high in the carrots. When temperatures begin to warm outdoors, mulch the carrots to help keep the soil cool. For best results, harvest the carrots as soon as possible.
Aster Yellows Disease
Aster yellows disease can form on carrots due to the aster leafhopper. When the leafhopper feeds on infected plants for an extended time, its saliva becomes inoculated with the pathogens and can spread the disease, according to Missouri Botanical Garden. The carrot leaves may begin to turn yellow, the carrot growth may slow down and the carrot roots may become bitter. The roots will also have fine hairs and lack color. Manage the disease by removing infected carrots and control the insects by covering the crops with mesh fabric. The Missouri Botanical Garden also suggests removing weeds from the garden because they may contain the disease.
Harvesting Too Young
Pulling the carrots out of the ground while they are young and tender may result in a bitter or soapy flavor, according to the World Carrot Museum. Different varieties of carrots can have a higher amount of terpenoids, which will form before the sugars in the carrot. When you harvest the carrots while they are young, they may not contain enough sugar, which results in the bitter taste. Harvest the carrots when they are 1/2 inch in diameter and continue to harvest them throughout the growing season only when they are mature. Most carrots reach maturity within 60 to 70 days after you plant them if the growing conditions are right.
Improper Storage
After you harvest carrots, they need to be stored properly to keep them fresh. Carrots are best stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer away from apples and pears. The Center for Urban Education About Sustainable Agriculture suggests that the release of ethylene gas from these fruits can cause the carrots to have a bitter taste. Trim the tops off the carrots and keep them in perforated plastic bags in the refrigerator for three to four weeks. The green tops only last for two to three days on the carrots and need to be stored separately from them.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月21日
Enjoy nutrient-dense, warm season banana peppers on garden salads or fry them up and make crispy side dishes. These peppers have a mild, non-spicy, sweet taste, making them a favored addition to all sorts of recipes. It's easy to grow banana peppers in your own garden with a few simple steps and soil preparation techniques.
Nutrition Facts
Banana peppers are nutritious. These sweet peppers contain calcium, fiber, potassium, folate, vitamins A and C and protein. Vitamin C helps the body make collagen, and it aids in the repair and growth of all tissues within the body, according to the University of Maryland Medical Center. Banana peppers have no fat and a low calorie content, making this food a smart choice for dieters.
Characteristics
Banana peppers are light green, orange or yellow in color and have an oblong shape with pointed tips. The raw peppers have a smooth texture and thick skin with seeds and lobes on the inside. The skin feels slightly supple because of water inside, but the peppers can quickly dry out when cooked. Banana peppers are 4 or more inches long and widest at the top portion of the pepper, near the stem. Some of these peppers have a straight appearance while others have a slight curve on the end.
Origin
While the banana pepper has a sweet taste, its chili pepper cousins have a much spicier flavor and very different characteristics. All of these peppers originated in the Americas, but banana peppers and other peppers in the chili pepper family have spread across the entire world.
Growing Banana Peppers
Prepare the soil before planting banana peppers. These peppers thrive in nutrient-rich, well-drained soil and full sunshine. Till the ground 10 or more inches deep with a garden tiller and add 4 or more inches of compost. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and space pepper seeds and transplants 18 to 24 inches apart in rows or 14 inches apart in raised beds. Plant transplants 3 inches deep to fully cover the roots. Banana peppers take up to 70 days to fully mature in the ground.
Nutrition Facts
Banana peppers are nutritious. These sweet peppers contain calcium, fiber, potassium, folate, vitamins A and C and protein. Vitamin C helps the body make collagen, and it aids in the repair and growth of all tissues within the body, according to the University of Maryland Medical Center. Banana peppers have no fat and a low calorie content, making this food a smart choice for dieters.
Characteristics
Banana peppers are light green, orange or yellow in color and have an oblong shape with pointed tips. The raw peppers have a smooth texture and thick skin with seeds and lobes on the inside. The skin feels slightly supple because of water inside, but the peppers can quickly dry out when cooked. Banana peppers are 4 or more inches long and widest at the top portion of the pepper, near the stem. Some of these peppers have a straight appearance while others have a slight curve on the end.
Origin
While the banana pepper has a sweet taste, its chili pepper cousins have a much spicier flavor and very different characteristics. All of these peppers originated in the Americas, but banana peppers and other peppers in the chili pepper family have spread across the entire world.
Growing Banana Peppers
Prepare the soil before planting banana peppers. These peppers thrive in nutrient-rich, well-drained soil and full sunshine. Till the ground 10 or more inches deep with a garden tiller and add 4 or more inches of compost. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and space pepper seeds and transplants 18 to 24 inches apart in rows or 14 inches apart in raised beds. Plant transplants 3 inches deep to fully cover the roots. Banana peppers take up to 70 days to fully mature in the ground.
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成长记
Sandra🐬
2018年03月17日
Birds came and ate them. So they grow up slower then the others. Come into buds sooner or later.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
The pear-shaped, light-green fruits known in the U.S. as vegetable pears and in Mexico as chayotes grow on vigorous cold-sensitive vines of the cucurbit family -- the same plant family that includes pumpkins, squash, melons and cucumbers. Known to ancient Aztecs as chayotli and to botanists as Sechium edule, chayote vines need a 150-day growing season between hard frosts, a circumstance hard to come by in the U.S. except for Southern locales. Where frost doesn't destroy the roots, an established chayote plant will resprout the following spring and again produce an immense quantity of fruit.
Step 1
Purchase several fresh chayote fruits in fall, even if they have been in cold storage and are wrapped in plastic. Unwrap them once you get home if they were encased in plastic.
Step 2
Store whole chayotes in a cool, dark place such as a garage or back porch cupboard. The almond-sized chayote seeds inside the fruits will sprout, emerge and lengthen in the dark. By February, the seedling will be about 6 inches long.
Step 3
Fill the 5-gallon container to within several inches of the top with thoroughly moistened potting soil. Scoop out a chayote-sized area in the center and plant the entire sprouted fruit, the tip barely showing.
Step 4
Water the chayote pot thoroughly and place it in a sunny window until temperatures outside are warm. Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy.
Step 5
Place the pot outdoors when temperatures are warm, adjacent to the fence or trellis that will provide support. Water regularly, thoroughly saturating the soil. You may water once or twice daily during hot weather, because roots are limited to moisture available to them in the container.
Step 6
Mulch the chayote soil with several inches of mulch to conserve moisture. Tend the vine all summer; it will grow to 30 feet or more before blossoming or setting fruit. Vines will bloom in August or September and be covered with chayotes by September or October.
Step 7
Harvest fruits when pickle size, sliced-cucumber size or 1-pound-pear size. Vines will die back after the first frost, but fruits won't be damaged until the first hard frost. Protect the dormant roots by storing the pot in a cool -- not frosty -- garage or basement until spring. Water the pot lightly every month or so.
Step 1
Purchase several fresh chayote fruits in fall, even if they have been in cold storage and are wrapped in plastic. Unwrap them once you get home if they were encased in plastic.
Step 2
Store whole chayotes in a cool, dark place such as a garage or back porch cupboard. The almond-sized chayote seeds inside the fruits will sprout, emerge and lengthen in the dark. By February, the seedling will be about 6 inches long.
Step 3
Fill the 5-gallon container to within several inches of the top with thoroughly moistened potting soil. Scoop out a chayote-sized area in the center and plant the entire sprouted fruit, the tip barely showing.
Step 4
Water the chayote pot thoroughly and place it in a sunny window until temperatures outside are warm. Keep soil evenly moist but not soggy.
Step 5
Place the pot outdoors when temperatures are warm, adjacent to the fence or trellis that will provide support. Water regularly, thoroughly saturating the soil. You may water once or twice daily during hot weather, because roots are limited to moisture available to them in the container.
Step 6
Mulch the chayote soil with several inches of mulch to conserve moisture. Tend the vine all summer; it will grow to 30 feet or more before blossoming or setting fruit. Vines will bloom in August or September and be covered with chayotes by September or October.
Step 7
Harvest fruits when pickle size, sliced-cucumber size or 1-pound-pear size. Vines will die back after the first frost, but fruits won't be damaged until the first hard frost. Protect the dormant roots by storing the pot in a cool -- not frosty -- garage or basement until spring. Water the pot lightly every month or so.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月16日
Grow your own salad at home with a backyard patch of lettuce (Lactuca sativa), which thrives throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9. Since this vegetable is prized for its crisp, edible leaves, yellowing foliage can ruin your dreams of a homemade salad harvest. Lettuce may turn yellow for a few common reasons, each which has an organic, natural solution.
Not Enough Water
The lettuce plant has a very shallow root system, which makes it especially prone to drought stress. The plant requires consistently moist soil conditions at all times, without which it will wilt, turn yellow and eventually lose all of its leaves.
When watering lettuce, use enough irrigation to moisten the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Water the lettuce bed again as soon as the top inch of soil has dried out.
Extreme Soil Temperature Fluctuations
Since lettuce roots lie so close to the soil surface, the plant is more prone to temperature-induced stress that can result in wilting and yellowing of the lettuce leaves. Mulch creates a protective barrier on the soil surface that helps to shield the soil from the sun and keeps temperatures constant and cool.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch around the lettuce plants. Example mulching materials include:
Shredded leaves
Weed-free straw or hay
Fine bark chips
Compost
Additionally, mulch helps prevent weed growth and also conserves soil moisture, further enhancing the lettuce plant's health and appearance.
Poor Soil Nutrient Levels
As lettuce grows, it needs rich levels of soil nutrients to support optimal foliage development. Nutrient-depleted soil may result in lettuce plants that appear stunted with leaves that aren't fully developed or that have a pale, yellow-green hue. When given the right amount of fertilizer, lettuce leaves turn a dark green.
Before planting lettuce, set a nutritional foundation by spreading 1 1/2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer for every 50 square feet of gardening space. A couple months after the lettuce has been planted, fertilize the garden again with 1/2 pound of 33-0-0 fertilizer for every 50 feet of lettuce row.
Pest Invasions
You are not the only thing that enjoys the taste of lettuce. Occasionally, lettuce beds may get attacked by a variety of soft-bodied pests, including aphids, leafhoppers and whiteflies. Left uncontrolled, pest infestations can reach such heavy numbers that they cause wilting, yellowing or loss of leaves. Some pests, such as the leafhopper, spread a disease called yellows disease that, true to its name, causes yellow leaves.
Dust lettuce plants with food-grade diatomaceous earth to protect it from leafhoppers and other leaf-eating pests. Repeat the diatomaceous earth application after any rainy days.
Alternatively, spray lettuce plants with a strong blast of water from a garden hose. This is often enough to dislodge and kill common pests like aphids and whiteflies, and regular spraying keeps pest populations at levels too low to cause a problem.
If all else fails, make your own homemade insecticide soap spray to kill aphids, leafhoppers and other soft-bodied pests.
Step 1
Place an entire garlic bulb and a small onion into a blender and blend on medium until a fine pulp is created.
Step 2
Add 1 teaspoon of powdered, dehydrated cayenne pepper.
Step 3
Add 1 quart of water.
Step 4
Mix thoroughly and allow to steep of an hour, but preferably overnight.
Step 5
Pour the liquid through a piece of cheesecloth into a plastic spray bottle.
Step 6
Add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap.
Step 7
Spray the soapy solution on affected lettuce plants. Coat all exposed surfaces of the plant, including the undersides of leaves where aphids and other pests tend to congregate.
Step 8
Repeat once a week until pest activity subsides.
Not Enough Water
The lettuce plant has a very shallow root system, which makes it especially prone to drought stress. The plant requires consistently moist soil conditions at all times, without which it will wilt, turn yellow and eventually lose all of its leaves.
When watering lettuce, use enough irrigation to moisten the soil to a depth of 6 inches. Water the lettuce bed again as soon as the top inch of soil has dried out.
Extreme Soil Temperature Fluctuations
Since lettuce roots lie so close to the soil surface, the plant is more prone to temperature-induced stress that can result in wilting and yellowing of the lettuce leaves. Mulch creates a protective barrier on the soil surface that helps to shield the soil from the sun and keeps temperatures constant and cool.
Spread 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch around the lettuce plants. Example mulching materials include:
Shredded leaves
Weed-free straw or hay
Fine bark chips
Compost
Additionally, mulch helps prevent weed growth and also conserves soil moisture, further enhancing the lettuce plant's health and appearance.
Poor Soil Nutrient Levels
As lettuce grows, it needs rich levels of soil nutrients to support optimal foliage development. Nutrient-depleted soil may result in lettuce plants that appear stunted with leaves that aren't fully developed or that have a pale, yellow-green hue. When given the right amount of fertilizer, lettuce leaves turn a dark green.
Before planting lettuce, set a nutritional foundation by spreading 1 1/2 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer for every 50 square feet of gardening space. A couple months after the lettuce has been planted, fertilize the garden again with 1/2 pound of 33-0-0 fertilizer for every 50 feet of lettuce row.
Pest Invasions
You are not the only thing that enjoys the taste of lettuce. Occasionally, lettuce beds may get attacked by a variety of soft-bodied pests, including aphids, leafhoppers and whiteflies. Left uncontrolled, pest infestations can reach such heavy numbers that they cause wilting, yellowing or loss of leaves. Some pests, such as the leafhopper, spread a disease called yellows disease that, true to its name, causes yellow leaves.
Dust lettuce plants with food-grade diatomaceous earth to protect it from leafhoppers and other leaf-eating pests. Repeat the diatomaceous earth application after any rainy days.
Alternatively, spray lettuce plants with a strong blast of water from a garden hose. This is often enough to dislodge and kill common pests like aphids and whiteflies, and regular spraying keeps pest populations at levels too low to cause a problem.
If all else fails, make your own homemade insecticide soap spray to kill aphids, leafhoppers and other soft-bodied pests.
Step 1
Place an entire garlic bulb and a small onion into a blender and blend on medium until a fine pulp is created.
Step 2
Add 1 teaspoon of powdered, dehydrated cayenne pepper.
Step 3
Add 1 quart of water.
Step 4
Mix thoroughly and allow to steep of an hour, but preferably overnight.
Step 5
Pour the liquid through a piece of cheesecloth into a plastic spray bottle.
Step 6
Add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap.
Step 7
Spray the soapy solution on affected lettuce plants. Coat all exposed surfaces of the plant, including the undersides of leaves where aphids and other pests tend to congregate.
Step 8
Repeat once a week until pest activity subsides.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月06日
Gardeners have the option of growing vegetables that develop on annual vines. In some instances, the vines need sufficient room to spread out, but you can support some of these vegetable vines with stakes and grow them vertically. Some vining vegetables are native to North America and have a long history of cultivation on the continent. Others hail from other continents. Although some of these species may be fruits botanically, people use them as vegetables.
Summer Squash
Summer squash, or Cucurbita pepo, is a North American native, with its origins probably in Mexico, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden. The term "summer squash" covers such squash types as zucchini, crookneck squash and straightneck squash. Summer squash develops quickly after the vines bloom, often within 50 days. The vines are compact, maturing to between 2 and 4 feet long. Plant summer squash vine cultivars 3 to 4 feet apart, with 8 feet between rows to give the vines abundant room. Plant the seeds outdoors after the last threat of frost passes, when soil temperatures reach 65 F.
Cucumber
The vines of cucumbers, or Cucumis sativus, sprawl along the ground or grow with support, climbing as high as 6 feet. Cucumbers are not North American native vines, potentially originating in India. Cucumbers require full sunshine, fertile soil and consistent water to grow properly. Cucumbers come in varied forms, with those suitable for pickling growing to between 3 and 4 inches, while those appropriate for slicing normally between 7 and 8 inches in length. Some cucumber cultivars grow as bushes, but the vines yield more fruit.
Pumpkins
The larger types of pumpkins, Cucurbita maxima, sometimes need a prolonged growing season, making them unsuitable for some northern climates. Pumpkins are a form of squash that grows on an annual vine, with some vines being 12 feet long. Pumpkins are edible or ornamental, with varieties bred for taste or size. The seeds are edible when toasted. Pumpkins are a Central American native species. Cucumber beetles, aphids and the squash bug are some insect pests that attack pumpkin vines.
Winter Squash
South and Central America are the likely origins of winter squash, Cucurbita moschata, a type of squash harvested after growing on the vine all summer and into the fall. Winter squash comes in what Cornell University describes as a "staggering" number of cultivars. Types such as acorn, Hubbard and butternut squash are common forms of winter squash. The vines grow along the ground, some to lengths between 10 and 15 feet. Winter squash is cold sensitive; it fails to grow before the temperatures reach 65 to 70 F. Diseases, including bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew, affect winter squash vines.
Pole Beans
The vines of pole beans,Phaseolus vulgaris, sometimes grow to 10 feet high. Needing the support of long stakes or a trellis, pole beans grown in this manner produce as much as three times the amount of beans as bush beans grown in an equivalent space will. Pole beans, like most bean species, resist transplanting, making it important to start them outside where you intend them to stay. Wait until all chance of frost is gone before planting pole beans. Diseases, such as bacterial blight and leaf mold, affect pole beans, with the chance of spreading the ailments among your plants great if you work among the plants when their leaves are wet.
Summer Squash
Summer squash, or Cucurbita pepo, is a North American native, with its origins probably in Mexico, according to the Missouri Botanical Garden. The term "summer squash" covers such squash types as zucchini, crookneck squash and straightneck squash. Summer squash develops quickly after the vines bloom, often within 50 days. The vines are compact, maturing to between 2 and 4 feet long. Plant summer squash vine cultivars 3 to 4 feet apart, with 8 feet between rows to give the vines abundant room. Plant the seeds outdoors after the last threat of frost passes, when soil temperatures reach 65 F.
Cucumber
The vines of cucumbers, or Cucumis sativus, sprawl along the ground or grow with support, climbing as high as 6 feet. Cucumbers are not North American native vines, potentially originating in India. Cucumbers require full sunshine, fertile soil and consistent water to grow properly. Cucumbers come in varied forms, with those suitable for pickling growing to between 3 and 4 inches, while those appropriate for slicing normally between 7 and 8 inches in length. Some cucumber cultivars grow as bushes, but the vines yield more fruit.
Pumpkins
The larger types of pumpkins, Cucurbita maxima, sometimes need a prolonged growing season, making them unsuitable for some northern climates. Pumpkins are a form of squash that grows on an annual vine, with some vines being 12 feet long. Pumpkins are edible or ornamental, with varieties bred for taste or size. The seeds are edible when toasted. Pumpkins are a Central American native species. Cucumber beetles, aphids and the squash bug are some insect pests that attack pumpkin vines.
Winter Squash
South and Central America are the likely origins of winter squash, Cucurbita moschata, a type of squash harvested after growing on the vine all summer and into the fall. Winter squash comes in what Cornell University describes as a "staggering" number of cultivars. Types such as acorn, Hubbard and butternut squash are common forms of winter squash. The vines grow along the ground, some to lengths between 10 and 15 feet. Winter squash is cold sensitive; it fails to grow before the temperatures reach 65 to 70 F. Diseases, including bacterial wilt, and powdery mildew, affect winter squash vines.
Pole Beans
The vines of pole beans,Phaseolus vulgaris, sometimes grow to 10 feet high. Needing the support of long stakes or a trellis, pole beans grown in this manner produce as much as three times the amount of beans as bush beans grown in an equivalent space will. Pole beans, like most bean species, resist transplanting, making it important to start them outside where you intend them to stay. Wait until all chance of frost is gone before planting pole beans. Diseases, such as bacterial blight and leaf mold, affect pole beans, with the chance of spreading the ailments among your plants great if you work among the plants when their leaves are wet.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年03月06日
Soybeans are a major crop in the United States and elsewhere in the world. Used in an increasing variety of products, soybeans will grow in many different climates, but like most plants, they do best within a certain range.
Climate
Soybeans are usually grown in cool, temperate regions like the midwestern United States and southern Canada, but tropical climates like Indonesia also produce soybeans. This crop can grow almost anywhere with a warm growing season, ample water, and sunlight.
Temperature
Soybeans are usually planted when the soil temperature is between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and a hard frost is unlikely. Soybeans can be damaged by subfreezing temperatures, but they are less tender than several other crops, such as corn. Soybeans also need a growing season with temperatures between 70 and 95 F.
Soil
Soybeans are highly adaptable and will grow in most soils, although they can have trouble in heavy clay. The best soil is loose, rich loam that is moist but well drained.
Climate
Soybeans are usually grown in cool, temperate regions like the midwestern United States and southern Canada, but tropical climates like Indonesia also produce soybeans. This crop can grow almost anywhere with a warm growing season, ample water, and sunlight.
Temperature
Soybeans are usually planted when the soil temperature is between 55 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit, and a hard frost is unlikely. Soybeans can be damaged by subfreezing temperatures, but they are less tender than several other crops, such as corn. Soybeans also need a growing season with temperatures between 70 and 95 F.
Soil
Soybeans are highly adaptable and will grow in most soils, although they can have trouble in heavy clay. The best soil is loose, rich loam that is moist but well drained.
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求助
alwinkizhakkel
2018年02月26日
what is the name of this plant. it's a grass type garden plant doesn't grow taller but spreads along
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爱峰：Too close
爱峰：If you can eat it, it's a rape.
爱峰：You can eat？
文章
Cole Csolak
2018年02月19日
What you need : eight to twelve in. pot, miracle grow soil, and marigold seeds.
Step one : fill pot With the soil
Step two : poke half inch holes in the soil
Step three : put three mariglod seeds in each hole
Step four : cover the holes and saterate the soil so germination is possible
When seeds sprout, always keep the water moist.
Tips : best time to plant is in early may
Seeds will reproduce as soon as the flower buds bloom
Marigolds always need to be watered so count three in you head while you water them
You can grow marigolds in your house in the whole winter to keep them alive for the comming spring
Well have a fun time planting marigolds
Step one : fill pot With the soil
Step two : poke half inch holes in the soil
Step three : put three mariglod seeds in each hole
Step four : cover the holes and saterate the soil so germination is possible
When seeds sprout, always keep the water moist.
Tips : best time to plant is in early may
Seeds will reproduce as soon as the flower buds bloom
Marigolds always need to be watered so count three in you head while you water them
You can grow marigolds in your house in the whole winter to keep them alive for the comming spring
Well have a fun time planting marigolds
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成长记
Avacha
2018年02月05日
The plant is definitely feeling good! It started to grow, and now the “green” people of the office are paying additional attention to the shelf where it’s standing 😊
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月09日
Gladiolas, familiarly known as "glads," grow from bulb-like structures called corms. The corms are cold tender and won't tolerate winters in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 7 and below. Although some gardeners prefer to grow glads as annuals and plant fresh bulbs every year, it isn't difficult to preserve the bulbs by digging them every autumn.
Digging Corms
Dig gladiolus corms before the first hard freeze in autumn, but not until the foliage dies down after a light frost. Leave the corms in the ground as long as possible, as the green foliage absorbs sunlight, which provides energy and food to produce next year's blooms. Without the foliage, flower production will be weakened. Use a spade or garden shovel to loosen the soil around the clump, then hold the tops and pull the plant carefully from the ground. Shake the clump to remove excess soil from the corms.
Preparing for Storage
Use garden shears to cut the foliage 1 to 2 inches above the corm. Spread the corms on a newspaper, not touching, in a warm, dry, well-ventilated place to cure for two to three weeks. After the corms have cured, last year's corms will be noticeably dry and shriveled. Remove the old corms by twisting them, then discard them. Save the new corms with husks intact.
Storing Corms
Place the gladiolus corms in cloth bags, mesh onion bags, paper sacks or in the legs of old nylon pantyhose. Store the corms in a dark, dry, cold, well-ventilated place such as a shed, garage or basement. Although temperatures should be cold, the corms should never be allowed to freeze. The storage room should be between 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Replant the corms between May and mid-June.
Protection in Warmer Climates
Although it isn't necessary to dig gladiolus corms in the milder winter climates of zone 7 and above, a 3- to 4-inch layer of loose mulch such as straw, dry leaves or pine needles will keep the soil moist throughout the winter as it offers protection from light frosts or temperature fluctuations. Remove the mulch when the weather warms in spring.
Digging Corms
Dig gladiolus corms before the first hard freeze in autumn, but not until the foliage dies down after a light frost. Leave the corms in the ground as long as possible, as the green foliage absorbs sunlight, which provides energy and food to produce next year's blooms. Without the foliage, flower production will be weakened. Use a spade or garden shovel to loosen the soil around the clump, then hold the tops and pull the plant carefully from the ground. Shake the clump to remove excess soil from the corms.
Preparing for Storage
Use garden shears to cut the foliage 1 to 2 inches above the corm. Spread the corms on a newspaper, not touching, in a warm, dry, well-ventilated place to cure for two to three weeks. After the corms have cured, last year's corms will be noticeably dry and shriveled. Remove the old corms by twisting them, then discard them. Save the new corms with husks intact.
Storing Corms
Place the gladiolus corms in cloth bags, mesh onion bags, paper sacks or in the legs of old nylon pantyhose. Store the corms in a dark, dry, cold, well-ventilated place such as a shed, garage or basement. Although temperatures should be cold, the corms should never be allowed to freeze. The storage room should be between 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Replant the corms between May and mid-June.
Protection in Warmer Climates
Although it isn't necessary to dig gladiolus corms in the milder winter climates of zone 7 and above, a 3- to 4-inch layer of loose mulch such as straw, dry leaves or pine needles will keep the soil moist throughout the winter as it offers protection from light frosts or temperature fluctuations. Remove the mulch when the weather warms in spring.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月08日
Tiny ghost lilies (Lilium asiatic "Tiny Ghost") grow to reach about 12 to 18 inches high and do not require staking as do some lily varieties. They produce burgundy, trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom during the summer and make excellent cut flowers for floral arrangements. Because tiny ghost lilies are cultivars in the Asiatic lily family, they are quite cold hardy and fairly easy to care for compared with other types of lilies.
Step 1
Plant tiny ghost lilies in soil that drains water well. Till the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches deep and mix in 3 to 4 inches of organic matter, such as leaf mold, compost or peat, before planting. This improves the drainage and adds essential nutrients to the soil. Never plant them in soil that frequently has standing water.
Step 2
Fertilize tiny ghost lilies in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, such as one labeled 5-10-10. Use the recommended rates listed on the label.
Step 3
Water tiny ghost lilies in the morning so the leaves have sufficient time to dry out before nightfall. This practice helps prevent fungal and foliar diseases. Water them two to three times a week for the first month after planting while they are becoming established. After that ghost lilies typically will need water only during droughts during the growing season.
Step 4
Clip off spent tiny ghost lily flowers when they fade to encourage more blooms. Clip off only the flower just beneath the bloom, using hand clippers.
Step 5
Cut down the plants in the fall when the plant dies back. Do not cut them down when the leaves are still green because tiny ghost lilies are busy photosynthesizing sunlight into energy, which they will use next year.
Step 6
Cover tiny ghost lilies with 4 to 6 inches of mulch the first winter just as the ground begins to freeze, especially in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 and 5. For subsequent winters, cover them only in areas where snowfall is not dependable. Remove the mulch in the spring after the last hard frost.
Step 1
Plant tiny ghost lilies in soil that drains water well. Till the soil approximately 8 to 12 inches deep and mix in 3 to 4 inches of organic matter, such as leaf mold, compost or peat, before planting. This improves the drainage and adds essential nutrients to the soil. Never plant them in soil that frequently has standing water.
Step 2
Fertilize tiny ghost lilies in the spring with a slow-release fertilizer that is high in phosphorus, such as one labeled 5-10-10. Use the recommended rates listed on the label.
Step 3
Water tiny ghost lilies in the morning so the leaves have sufficient time to dry out before nightfall. This practice helps prevent fungal and foliar diseases. Water them two to three times a week for the first month after planting while they are becoming established. After that ghost lilies typically will need water only during droughts during the growing season.
Step 4
Clip off spent tiny ghost lily flowers when they fade to encourage more blooms. Clip off only the flower just beneath the bloom, using hand clippers.
Step 5
Cut down the plants in the fall when the plant dies back. Do not cut them down when the leaves are still green because tiny ghost lilies are busy photosynthesizing sunlight into energy, which they will use next year.
Step 6
Cover tiny ghost lilies with 4 to 6 inches of mulch the first winter just as the ground begins to freeze, especially in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 and 5. For subsequent winters, cover them only in areas where snowfall is not dependable. Remove the mulch in the spring after the last hard frost.
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文章
Miss Chen
2018年01月07日
Perennial gardeners who master bulb division and growing lilies from seed may want to try another form of vegetative propagation, stem cuttings. Although this method of propagation is more difficult for herbaceous perennials such as true lilies that grow from bulbs than it is for woody perennials, stem cuttings guarantee an identical clone of the parent plants. Some types of lilies lend themselves more readily to the technique.
How Lilies Reproduce
Lilies grow from scaled bulbs that carry the genetic code of the plant and the embryo and food and moisture to keep it safe until conditions allow it to grow again. Bulbs multiply rapidly. Some varieties produce additional bloom-ready bulbs every year. Some bulbs grow little bulblets around the base, or growth plate, of the parent bulbs and the section of the stem between the bulb and soil line. Some lilies, notably the North American native tiger lily, grow tiny bulbils at the junction of the leaf and stem. Each scale of the lily's bulb, every bulblet and bulbil carry the exact chromosomal combination of the parent. Seeds, produced in pods formed on flower stems, carry the combined genetic code for a new plant -- a hybrid -- with the combined chromosomal structure of the seed-bearing parent and whatever lily provided pollen. Success with stem cuttings relies on how the cultivar self-reproduces and how the stem cutting is planted.
Timing
Lily stems begin dying back quickly after flowers fade, so cuttings must be taken soon after the last flowers drop. Cuttings must be planted immediately in sharp sand or a starting mix and kept moist. When a shoot emerges, a bulbil has formed in the axil where the leaf meets the stem. This tiny bulb, planted in a nursery plot in spring, should grow large enough to move to the garden within a year or two. If the stem cutting successfully creates a bulbil, it may grow large enough to produce flowers within two to four seasons, depending on the lily cultivar.
Method
Section green, live sections of the stem, keeping at least one leaf on each section. Dust the section with a fungicide or rooting hormone, available at garden centers, and plant sections in a flat of sharp sand or soilless starter mix so that the leaves stand up above each section. Be sure to bury the axil of each leaf. That is where the bulbil will form.
Choosing Lilies for Cuttings
Many species of lilies, such as tiger lilies, readily form bulbils in leaf axils; hybrid Asiatics form bulblets on stems underground and leaves torn off with a section of stem. Lilies will not grow directly from stem cuttings; they must first form bulbils, so be patient. Only the lilies that grow bulbils -- or those hybrids whose ancestors grew bulbils -- will respond to this method of vegetative reproduction. The rest provide plenty of bulblets for the picking and planting on their mother bulbs' growth plates or along the underground sections of their stems.
How Lilies Reproduce
Lilies grow from scaled bulbs that carry the genetic code of the plant and the embryo and food and moisture to keep it safe until conditions allow it to grow again. Bulbs multiply rapidly. Some varieties produce additional bloom-ready bulbs every year. Some bulbs grow little bulblets around the base, or growth plate, of the parent bulbs and the section of the stem between the bulb and soil line. Some lilies, notably the North American native tiger lily, grow tiny bulbils at the junction of the leaf and stem. Each scale of the lily's bulb, every bulblet and bulbil carry the exact chromosomal combination of the parent. Seeds, produced in pods formed on flower stems, carry the combined genetic code for a new plant -- a hybrid -- with the combined chromosomal structure of the seed-bearing parent and whatever lily provided pollen. Success with stem cuttings relies on how the cultivar self-reproduces and how the stem cutting is planted.
Timing
Lily stems begin dying back quickly after flowers fade, so cuttings must be taken soon after the last flowers drop. Cuttings must be planted immediately in sharp sand or a starting mix and kept moist. When a shoot emerges, a bulbil has formed in the axil where the leaf meets the stem. This tiny bulb, planted in a nursery plot in spring, should grow large enough to move to the garden within a year or two. If the stem cutting successfully creates a bulbil, it may grow large enough to produce flowers within two to four seasons, depending on the lily cultivar.
Method
Section green, live sections of the stem, keeping at least one leaf on each section. Dust the section with a fungicide or rooting hormone, available at garden centers, and plant sections in a flat of sharp sand or soilless starter mix so that the leaves stand up above each section. Be sure to bury the axil of each leaf. That is where the bulbil will form.
Choosing Lilies for Cuttings
Many species of lilies, such as tiger lilies, readily form bulbils in leaf axils; hybrid Asiatics form bulblets on stems underground and leaves torn off with a section of stem. Lilies will not grow directly from stem cuttings; they must first form bulbils, so be patient. Only the lilies that grow bulbils -- or those hybrids whose ancestors grew bulbils -- will respond to this method of vegetative reproduction. The rest provide plenty of bulblets for the picking and planting on their mother bulbs' growth plates or along the underground sections of their stems.
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