文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月02日
If you think the gardening season is limited to spring, summer and fall, think again. A surprising number of vegetables grow well throughout the winter, and with a little help from a greenhouse, you'll hardly miss your summer garden.
Greens
Many of the typical garden salad greens are suitable for a winter garden. Plant lettuce, spinach, mustard, chard, kale and collards in September for harvest in late winter.
Herbs
In the herb garden, try sage, parsley, cilantro, rosemary and thyme. These usually grow well in areas with mild winters.
Other Vegetables
Plant broccoli, cabbage, kale, collards, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery, onions and turnips in September for use in late winter and early spring. Start beets, carrots and peas in August for harvest throughout the winter.
Warm Weather Crops
While tomatoes, sweet potatoes, peppers and eggplants rarely survive the entire winter, they can be planted in a greenhouse during the late winter for an early harvest that spring. If you're fortunate enough to have a heated greenhouse, nearly all warm weather crops will grow throughout the winter.
Greens
Many of the typical garden salad greens are suitable for a winter garden. Plant lettuce, spinach, mustard, chard, kale and collards in September for harvest in late winter.
Herbs
In the herb garden, try sage, parsley, cilantro, rosemary and thyme. These usually grow well in areas with mild winters.
Other Vegetables
Plant broccoli, cabbage, kale, collards, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery, onions and turnips in September for use in late winter and early spring. Start beets, carrots and peas in August for harvest throughout the winter.
Warm Weather Crops
While tomatoes, sweet potatoes, peppers and eggplants rarely survive the entire winter, they can be planted in a greenhouse during the late winter for an early harvest that spring. If you're fortunate enough to have a heated greenhouse, nearly all warm weather crops will grow throughout the winter.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月02日
Lima beans (Phaseolus lunatus) look like snap beans when they grow, and they develop as either vining or bush-like plants. Not tolerant of frost, lima bean seeds are sown in moist, fertile soil that is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Time Frame
A general time frame for germination of a lima bean is between six and 18 days. This is after the bean is sown in moist, well-drained soil at an depth of 1 inch in soil that is at least 65 degrees.
Factors
Temperature affects the rate of germination, as does the availability of moisture to soften the seed coat and cause the plant embryo to expand. Cool soil temperatures increase the time for germination, while warmer temperatures with ample moisture decrease the time of germination, perhaps to only three to six days. Dry soil never promotes germination.
Activity
Lima beans will germinate outside of soil if left in contact with damp paper towels and warm air temperatures. To study factors on germination, sow seeds in damp soil and various controlled/monitored temperatures as well as in a jar filled with damp towels or cotton balls. Note differences in germination rates as well as visually watching the seed transform through the glass jar walls.
Time Frame
A general time frame for germination of a lima bean is between six and 18 days. This is after the bean is sown in moist, well-drained soil at an depth of 1 inch in soil that is at least 65 degrees.
Factors
Temperature affects the rate of germination, as does the availability of moisture to soften the seed coat and cause the plant embryo to expand. Cool soil temperatures increase the time for germination, while warmer temperatures with ample moisture decrease the time of germination, perhaps to only three to six days. Dry soil never promotes germination.
Activity
Lima beans will germinate outside of soil if left in contact with damp paper towels and warm air temperatures. To study factors on germination, sow seeds in damp soil and various controlled/monitored temperatures as well as in a jar filled with damp towels or cotton balls. Note differences in germination rates as well as visually watching the seed transform through the glass jar walls.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
Growing broccoli in a greenhouse gives you the ability to enjoy fresh broccoli year round. Although a greenhouse offers an enclosed environment in which to grow a variety of seasonal plants, if you live in an area with wide temperature swings, you must still control the temperature inside the greenhouse. Cold nights, for instance, can frostbite plants in an unheated greenhouse, wasting your hard work.
Step 1
Install adequate central heating and cooling in the greenhouse, knowing that greenhouses get only 25 percent of their heat from the sun and require additional heating-and-cooling regulation in regions with moderate to extreme swings in temperature.
Step 2
Install two fans, one facing inward, serving as air input and one facing outward, serving as air output (exhaust). Fans help ventillate the air and introduce fresh amounts of carbon dioxide. For small greenhouses of 200 to 600 square feet, select fans capable of moving 5,000 cubic feet of air, and for larger greenhouses of 600 to 1,200 square feet, select fans capable of moving 12,000 cubic feet of air.
Step 3
Install wooden crates measuring a minimum of 3 feet wide per row and at least 2 feet deep.
Step 4
Spread fertilized soil into the crates to a depth of 23 inches to 24 inches. The soil settles a little, so you should fill the crates as full as possible.
Step 5
Plant the broccoli seeds 1 inch deep and about 15 inches to 24 inches apart in a layer of starter fertilizer that offers the broccoli seeds the required nutrients they need to encourage fast growth.
Step 6
Water the soil as the soil becomes dry to the touch, but when the broccoli sprouts, do not water the actual "heads"; water the stalks at their bases. Watering the brocolli heads encourages inedible blossoms.
Step 7
Allow the plant to grow 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 months.
Step 8
Harvest the plants by snipping them off beneath the head allowing for 5 inches to 6 inches of stalk.
Step 1
Install adequate central heating and cooling in the greenhouse, knowing that greenhouses get only 25 percent of their heat from the sun and require additional heating-and-cooling regulation in regions with moderate to extreme swings in temperature.
Step 2
Install two fans, one facing inward, serving as air input and one facing outward, serving as air output (exhaust). Fans help ventillate the air and introduce fresh amounts of carbon dioxide. For small greenhouses of 200 to 600 square feet, select fans capable of moving 5,000 cubic feet of air, and for larger greenhouses of 600 to 1,200 square feet, select fans capable of moving 12,000 cubic feet of air.
Step 3
Install wooden crates measuring a minimum of 3 feet wide per row and at least 2 feet deep.
Step 4
Spread fertilized soil into the crates to a depth of 23 inches to 24 inches. The soil settles a little, so you should fill the crates as full as possible.
Step 5
Plant the broccoli seeds 1 inch deep and about 15 inches to 24 inches apart in a layer of starter fertilizer that offers the broccoli seeds the required nutrients they need to encourage fast growth.
Step 6
Water the soil as the soil becomes dry to the touch, but when the broccoli sprouts, do not water the actual "heads"; water the stalks at their bases. Watering the brocolli heads encourages inedible blossoms.
Step 7
Allow the plant to grow 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 months.
Step 8
Harvest the plants by snipping them off beneath the head allowing for 5 inches to 6 inches of stalk.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年07月01日
Colorado vegetable gardening success depends, in part, on which part of the state you live in. Gardeners on the Western Slope, near Grand Junction, can grow almost any vegetable successfully, while those living in the mountains face the challenges of poor soil and a short growing season. Gardeners in the Denver metro area can grow most crops successfully, with a few caveats: amend the soil thoroughly with compost and manure, use row covers and cloches to extend the growing season and expect to water the garden two to three times per week.
Greens
Colorado's cool, wet springs are ideal for growing greens such as lettuce, spinach, kale and broccoli. Plant these crops between mid-March and late-April, depending on where you live, because they bolt and run to seed as soon as the weather gets hot. Many of these crops turn bitter during dry weather so monitor the soil carefully, especially if you have the sandy soil that's common east of Denver.
Root Vegetables
Plant potatoes, carrots and fennel from mid-to-late April for a late summer crop. If you have clay soils, try using raised beds or plant small varieties. The heavy soils found throughout much of the Front Range stunt the growth of long carrots, causing them to be deformed or crooked. Shorter varieties grow successfully, though.
Beans
Beans grow beautifully in Colorado's warm, dry climate. They are rarely bothered by pests or disease and mature long before the first fall frost. Beans will also come back if hit by a light hailstorm, unlike many garden vegetables. Plant either row or bush beans after the last expected frost, which is typically mid-May, according to the Colorado State University Extension.
Tomatoes, Peppers and Eggplants
Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant all grow well in Colorado, although most gardeners find that chile peppers are more successful than bell peppers in Colorado's dry climate. Plant these heat-loving crops two to three weeks after the last expected frost, or use cloches and row covers to keep them warm. Monitor the soil moisture carefully to avoid blossom end rot or cracked skins from over watering. Heirloom varieties that might succumb to disease in more humid regions grow easily in Colorado.
Squash
Even the most inexperienced gardener can grow zucchini in Colorado. In fact, gardeners are often tired of zucchini long before it is done producing. Pumpkins also grow well in Colorado's dry climate and make decorative accents for fall. Plant both from seed after the last expected frost and give them plenty of room to grow.
Greens
Colorado's cool, wet springs are ideal for growing greens such as lettuce, spinach, kale and broccoli. Plant these crops between mid-March and late-April, depending on where you live, because they bolt and run to seed as soon as the weather gets hot. Many of these crops turn bitter during dry weather so monitor the soil carefully, especially if you have the sandy soil that's common east of Denver.
Root Vegetables
Plant potatoes, carrots and fennel from mid-to-late April for a late summer crop. If you have clay soils, try using raised beds or plant small varieties. The heavy soils found throughout much of the Front Range stunt the growth of long carrots, causing them to be deformed or crooked. Shorter varieties grow successfully, though.
Beans
Beans grow beautifully in Colorado's warm, dry climate. They are rarely bothered by pests or disease and mature long before the first fall frost. Beans will also come back if hit by a light hailstorm, unlike many garden vegetables. Plant either row or bush beans after the last expected frost, which is typically mid-May, according to the Colorado State University Extension.
Tomatoes, Peppers and Eggplants
Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant all grow well in Colorado, although most gardeners find that chile peppers are more successful than bell peppers in Colorado's dry climate. Plant these heat-loving crops two to three weeks after the last expected frost, or use cloches and row covers to keep them warm. Monitor the soil moisture carefully to avoid blossom end rot or cracked skins from over watering. Heirloom varieties that might succumb to disease in more humid regions grow easily in Colorado.
Squash
Even the most inexperienced gardener can grow zucchini in Colorado. In fact, gardeners are often tired of zucchini long before it is done producing. Pumpkins also grow well in Colorado's dry climate and make decorative accents for fall. Plant both from seed after the last expected frost and give them plenty of room to grow.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月30日
01.Grow These Succulents Almost Anywhere
It seems like pretty much everyone has developed a thirst for succulents—those plants with exotic shapes and diverse forms that are easy to maintain and create a bold statement wherever they grow. Even beginning gardeners are tempted to buy one or two out of curiosity; with some getting hooked after seeing how beautiful and manageable they are.
Many of the uninitiated take a look at a bed of succulents and refer to them as Hens and Chicks (Sempervivums). But there are hundreds—thousands—of others that aficionados collect, trade, share and discuss in person and online. Some people love them because they are so easy to propagate—just take a snip, let callous over, and plant in the ground or in a container.
In regions that have been affected by drought or practice water-wise landscaping, succulents are a gorgeous and simple addition to the garden. They also thrive on patios, decks, and balconies, and make smart choices for pool area landscaping.
Planting the Right Succulents
Things you should know before you get started:
Succulents require more water in summer. If you live in a region with little rainfall, plan to water in-ground succulents once a week. Those in containers will require water about three times per week.
Reduce irrigation in fall and winter so that succulents can withstand lower temperatures. Soggy soil and soft, new growth make succulents more susceptible to damage from freezes.
What grows best in your region? If you aren't sure, buy from local suppliers: nurseries, succulent plant groups, botanical gardens, etc. This will ensure that they will survive.
While all-succulent gardens are attractive, start out by working them into your existing landscape. Discover some of the best companion plants for succulents.
Learn more about these easy-to-care-for beauties, including how to pronounce them (so you can impress everyone). And remember: cactus are succulents, but succulents are not cactus. Species are presented alphabetically.
02.Aeonium
Pronunciation: a-OH-nee-um
Traits: These natives of North Africa's Canary Islands prefer more moisture than most succulents. Darker ones, like the purple/black Aeonium 'Zwartkop', can tolerate sun more than the lighter varieties. Many aeoniums are in the forms of flowers and rosettes, making them especially pretty in container gardens or even cut bouquets or arrangements.
Try These:
Black Aeonium: Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop'
A. artropurpureum
Kiwi Aeonium: A.decorum "Kiwi'
Canary Island aeonium: A. canariense
Sunburst Aeonium: A. 'Sunburst'
03.Agave
Pronunciation: a-GAH-vee
Traits: Native to the Americas, in-ground specimens grow more quickly and produce more blooms than their cousins confined to containers. Easily identifiable by their strong forms and large sizes—they make striking landscape plants. Leaves can be smooth, sword-shaped, toothed, or carried in rosettes. Blooms are infrequent but can be magnificent and huge--sometimes 14 feet or more. After flowering the larger agaves die, but offshoots or pups usually form before this occurs.
Try These:
Tuxedo Agave: Agave americana
Fox Tail Agave: A. attenuata; 'Kara's Stripes'
A. 'Blue Flame'
A. 'Cream Spike'
A. filifera
A. lopantha 'Quadricolor'
Parry's Agave or Artichoke Agave: A. parryi
Butterfly Agave: A. potatorum 'Kissho Kan' or 'Kichi-Jokan'
Queen Victoria Agave: A. victoriae-reginae
04.Aloe
Pronunciation: AL-oh
Traits: Native to Africa, the Mediterranean, Madagascar, aloes have fleshy, pointed leaves often arranged in rosettes that resemble agaves. Aloes, however, have showy flowers that bloom regularly, with the biggest display of flowers from February to September. Some blooms are tubular shaped and come in shades of orange, red, or yellow, while others are bicolor.
Aloes can be just a few inches high to as tall as trees, with leaves that are either smooth, bumpy, or prickly. It's those leaves that help funnel water down to the plant's crown, keeping it moist and succulent. Aloes prefer more water than agaves and other succulents. Their roots are fairly close to the surface, making them ideal next to houses or near pools.
Try These:
Aloe africana
A. arborescens
A. plicatilis
A. striata
A. vera
05.Crassula
Pronunciation: KRASS-oo-la
Traits: Native to South Africa, this large genus features small-to-medium succulents that have fleshy leaves arranged in a variety of patterns. Some crassula have branching stems, while others have are low-growing plants with dense foliage that are often good ground covers.
Try These:
Jade: Crassula ovata
Crassula argentea
C. falcata
C. cooperi
C. deltoidea
06.Dasylirion
Pronunciation: das-uh-LIH-ree-uhn
Traits: Although they more closely resemble a palm, this species surprises some people when they learn that they are actually succulents. Popular in xeriscape gardens, they have a southwestern look, and many have green, greyish, or blue-green strap-like leaves with small, sharp teeth that line the leaf edges. Small trunks can become woody, which makes them appear even less like succulents.
These striking succulents like some water, but will grow in desert and drought-tolerant gardens and make attractive container plants.
Try These:
Mexican Grass Tree: Dasylirion longissimum or D. quadrangulatum
Desert Spoon: D. wheelerii
Texas Sotol D. texanum
0
2
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月29日
Sedum plants come in a wide variety of heights, colors, and forms. Showy Stonecrop, the taller plants in the genus Sedum, are popular garden plants that are extremely easy to grow. Although lovely, sedums are often taken for granted in the garden, partly because they don’t bloom until the fall, but also because they require so little care from the gardener. The thick leaves of these succulent plants are able to withstand both drought and rainy weather.
The flower buds form early and remain attractive well in winter. If the deer didn’t eat them, Sedum would be a perfect plant.
Growth Habit and Leaves: Border Stonecrops are a small section of the hundreds of species of Sedum. These taller growing Sedums have thick stems, fleshy leaves and tight flower heads that start out looking similar to heads of broccoli. Most are sturdy enough to stand upright on their own, with a few varieties that have a nice trailing quality, suitable for containers.
Flowers: Tall sedum flowers tend to come in shades of pink and mauve, that start out pale and deepen as they mature. The flower heads are attractive from bud through to their dried stage and are usually left standing tall throughout winter. The stems are even strong enough to hold a few inches of snow, capping the flower tops.
Botanical Name
Sedum
Common Names
Showy Stonecrop, Border Stonecrop
Hardiness Zones
Actual hardiness always has some variability, depending on the type of sedum you are growing and your growing conditions for the year.
However, sedum plants tend to be tough and adaptable. You can expect them to survive in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 - 10.
Mature Plant Size
Most tall sedum varieties stand upright and form a well-behaved mound, but there are a few, like "Matrona" that naturally flop over. In general, expect the mature size of your sedum plants to be 6 - 24 inches (H) x 12 - 24 inches (W).
Sun Exposure for Sedums
Sedums will grow best in full sun. They are very drought tolerant, but stonecrops can get sun scald in extremely hot, dry conditions. Sedums can be grown successfully in partial shade, but the plants might not be as sturdy and upright as they would be in full sun.
Bloom Time
Although sedum flowers don't open until late summer / early fall, the flower heads form early in the season. They start off a green color, like a broccoli bud, and slowly change color, usually from a pink to a mauve. The earlier, paler color is actually the flower in bloom. The mauve color is generally when the flower head is starting to dry. But sedum flowers tend to look good in all their stages, making them a great plant for a long season of interest.
Using Stonecrops in Your Garden Design
Sedum look especially good in a small mass planting that takes center stage in autumn. Because they look good all season, sedums are suitable for edging, as specimen plants and in containers. Smaller varieties are good choices for rock gardens and walls. Sedums make long-lasting cut flowers and are great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
The Best Sedum Varieties to Grow
Sedum "Autumn Joy" - Still a favorite because it is such a wonderful, beautiful performer.
Sedum spectabile "Brilliant" - A clearer pink than most Sedum flowers.
Sedum "Vera Jamison" - Burgandy leaves and mauve flowers with a trailing habit.
Sedum "Black Jack" - Deep burgundy, almost black foliage and strong upright habit.
Sedum "Cloud Nine" - Variegated Foliage
Sedum Growing Tips
Sedums are extremely easy to grow. They prefer a well-drained soil but can tolerate rainy weather as well. Extreme heat and lack of sun both cause Sedum to get a bit leggy. Pruning the plants back in early July will encourage them to get bushier and to grow sturdier, but it can result in smaller flowers.
Most of the sedum seed offered is for the low growing, ground cover varieties, not tall sedum. Taller sedums tend to be hybrids, and they won't grow true from seed. You will usually need to start off with plants or divisions.
Caring for Your Stonecrop Plants
Stonecrop flowers bloom only once; late in the season. Stonecrops do not need deadheading and often look good right through the winter. After several years, the center of Sedum plants will show signs of dying out, a sure sign they need dividing. Dividing them is a good idea at that point, to keep the plant vigorous.
Stem cuttings can be taken at any time, to propagate more Sedum.
More Drought Tolerant Succulent Plants to Grow
Sedums are not the only easy to grow succulent plants for your garden, although they do tend to be hardier than most other succulents. If you are interested in growing more of these fascinating drought-tolerant plants others you might try include Aeonium, Agave, Crassula, Echeveria, Euphorbia, Ice Plants (Lampranthus), Kalanchoe, and Senecio. Many of these also make great houseplants.
The flower buds form early and remain attractive well in winter. If the deer didn’t eat them, Sedum would be a perfect plant.
Growth Habit and Leaves: Border Stonecrops are a small section of the hundreds of species of Sedum. These taller growing Sedums have thick stems, fleshy leaves and tight flower heads that start out looking similar to heads of broccoli. Most are sturdy enough to stand upright on their own, with a few varieties that have a nice trailing quality, suitable for containers.
Flowers: Tall sedum flowers tend to come in shades of pink and mauve, that start out pale and deepen as they mature. The flower heads are attractive from bud through to their dried stage and are usually left standing tall throughout winter. The stems are even strong enough to hold a few inches of snow, capping the flower tops.
Botanical Name
Sedum
Common Names
Showy Stonecrop, Border Stonecrop
Hardiness Zones
Actual hardiness always has some variability, depending on the type of sedum you are growing and your growing conditions for the year.
However, sedum plants tend to be tough and adaptable. You can expect them to survive in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 - 10.
Mature Plant Size
Most tall sedum varieties stand upright and form a well-behaved mound, but there are a few, like "Matrona" that naturally flop over. In general, expect the mature size of your sedum plants to be 6 - 24 inches (H) x 12 - 24 inches (W).
Sun Exposure for Sedums
Sedums will grow best in full sun. They are very drought tolerant, but stonecrops can get sun scald in extremely hot, dry conditions. Sedums can be grown successfully in partial shade, but the plants might not be as sturdy and upright as they would be in full sun.
Bloom Time
Although sedum flowers don't open until late summer / early fall, the flower heads form early in the season. They start off a green color, like a broccoli bud, and slowly change color, usually from a pink to a mauve. The earlier, paler color is actually the flower in bloom. The mauve color is generally when the flower head is starting to dry. But sedum flowers tend to look good in all their stages, making them a great plant for a long season of interest.
Using Stonecrops in Your Garden Design
Sedum look especially good in a small mass planting that takes center stage in autumn. Because they look good all season, sedums are suitable for edging, as specimen plants and in containers. Smaller varieties are good choices for rock gardens and walls. Sedums make long-lasting cut flowers and are great for attracting butterflies and other pollinators.
The Best Sedum Varieties to Grow
Sedum "Autumn Joy" - Still a favorite because it is such a wonderful, beautiful performer.
Sedum spectabile "Brilliant" - A clearer pink than most Sedum flowers.
Sedum "Vera Jamison" - Burgandy leaves and mauve flowers with a trailing habit.
Sedum "Black Jack" - Deep burgundy, almost black foliage and strong upright habit.
Sedum "Cloud Nine" - Variegated Foliage
Sedum Growing Tips
Sedums are extremely easy to grow. They prefer a well-drained soil but can tolerate rainy weather as well. Extreme heat and lack of sun both cause Sedum to get a bit leggy. Pruning the plants back in early July will encourage them to get bushier and to grow sturdier, but it can result in smaller flowers.
Most of the sedum seed offered is for the low growing, ground cover varieties, not tall sedum. Taller sedums tend to be hybrids, and they won't grow true from seed. You will usually need to start off with plants or divisions.
Caring for Your Stonecrop Plants
Stonecrop flowers bloom only once; late in the season. Stonecrops do not need deadheading and often look good right through the winter. After several years, the center of Sedum plants will show signs of dying out, a sure sign they need dividing. Dividing them is a good idea at that point, to keep the plant vigorous.
Stem cuttings can be taken at any time, to propagate more Sedum.
More Drought Tolerant Succulent Plants to Grow
Sedums are not the only easy to grow succulent plants for your garden, although they do tend to be hardier than most other succulents. If you are interested in growing more of these fascinating drought-tolerant plants others you might try include Aeonium, Agave, Crassula, Echeveria, Euphorbia, Ice Plants (Lampranthus), Kalanchoe, and Senecio. Many of these also make great houseplants.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月28日
6.Graptoveria 'Topsy Debbie'
Graptopetalums like 'Topsy Debbie' form rosettes of leaves that spread by offsets, which easily form new plants for your propagating pleasure. Plants must grow in full sun for best health and vigor.
7.Aloe hawthoroides
The classic aloe plant has gotten an update: Aloe hawthoroides has dozens of feathery bristles on each leaf, which are all bark but no bite. This touchable plant has a moderate growth habit and is tolerant of a wide variety of growing conditions, as long as you don't let it freeze or sit in stagnant water.
8.Kalanchoe rhombopilosa
Who can resist a plant called "pies from heaven?" This kalanchoe is but one of the many strange and beautiful living things that hails from Madagascar. The leaves are fuzzy, grey and covered with brown streaking. Insignificant yellow flowers may appear on stalks in the spring. Give your kalanchoe abundant light for healthy plants.
Continue to 9 of 10 below.
9.Echeveria gibbiflora 'Barbillion'
If you've ever observed the fleshy wattle of a turkey or rooster, you have seen something these fowl have in common with echeveria 'Barbillion:' they are both carunculated. This term refers to a bumpy, fleshy growth. Is it beautiful or hideous? Give it plenty of light and water sparingly, and see if the unusual appeal of this succulent grows on you.
10.Echeveria 'Blue Curls'
A single specimen of echeveria, 'Blue Curls' makes an exquisite statement in a container with its frilly leaves and pink and aqua coloration. Prevent water from accumulating within the rosette and remove dead leaves from the plant's base to keep pests from interfering with its vigor.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月25日
1.Aeonium
The majority of us can't grow Aeoniums year round, in the garden. Don't let that stop you from enjoying them, though. Although they have the familiar rosettes of Hens and Chicks, these quirky succulents are so waxy and shiny, they almost look artificial. In warm climates, they can grow into shrubs. Just imagine coming across a Hens and Chicks at eye level.
As with many of the succulents listed here, Aeonium makes a good houseplant. You can give it a summer vacation outdoors and enjoy it indoors during the winter, it's prime growing season. (USDA Hardiness Zones 9 - 11)
2.Agave
You may be familiar with the giant Agave Americana, with its dangerous, serrated leaves. It's impressive, but not suited to most gardens. There are better choices among the dozens of Agave species. There are even some that can tolerate freezing temperatures.
3.Crassula
With about 350 species in this genus, there's a lot of variety. Jade plants, Crassula ovata, (syn. C. argentea and C. portulaca) are probably the most familiar, but there are also the stacked types, Crassula perforata, that look a little like paper chaines. Colors range from deep green to creams and yellows, silvery gray and shade of red.
In frost free climates, jade plants will form small shrubs. There's are now some very pretty variegated varieties available, which need full sun to retain their colors.
The staked varieties lend themselves to use in hanging containers and over walls. You'll love this little Crassula alpestris. The triangular leaves form stacked pinwheels. They are a pinkish-red during the winter, into spring. At the end of summer, you may get spikes of small white. They can handle some shade and like their soil on the dry side.
4.Echeveria
Another succulent that forms flower-like rosettes atop long stalks. Echeveria resembles Hens and Chicks and can be very ornamental. The leaves are more delicate than they appear and can be easily injured in garden beds. They are perfect for containers and hypertufa.
5.Euphorbia
This is a large genus with a great deal of variety. Not all Euphorbia are succulents but they do all have a milky sap that can be irritating. Be careful about rubbing your eyes after collecting seeds.
The majority of us can't grow Aeoniums year round, in the garden. Don't let that stop you from enjoying them, though. Although they have the familiar rosettes of Hens and Chicks, these quirky succulents are so waxy and shiny, they almost look artificial. In warm climates, they can grow into shrubs. Just imagine coming across a Hens and Chicks at eye level.
As with many of the succulents listed here, Aeonium makes a good houseplant. You can give it a summer vacation outdoors and enjoy it indoors during the winter, it's prime growing season. (USDA Hardiness Zones 9 - 11)
2.Agave
You may be familiar with the giant Agave Americana, with its dangerous, serrated leaves. It's impressive, but not suited to most gardens. There are better choices among the dozens of Agave species. There are even some that can tolerate freezing temperatures.
3.Crassula
With about 350 species in this genus, there's a lot of variety. Jade plants, Crassula ovata, (syn. C. argentea and C. portulaca) are probably the most familiar, but there are also the stacked types, Crassula perforata, that look a little like paper chaines. Colors range from deep green to creams and yellows, silvery gray and shade of red.
In frost free climates, jade plants will form small shrubs. There's are now some very pretty variegated varieties available, which need full sun to retain their colors.
The staked varieties lend themselves to use in hanging containers and over walls. You'll love this little Crassula alpestris. The triangular leaves form stacked pinwheels. They are a pinkish-red during the winter, into spring. At the end of summer, you may get spikes of small white. They can handle some shade and like their soil on the dry side.
4.Echeveria
Another succulent that forms flower-like rosettes atop long stalks. Echeveria resembles Hens and Chicks and can be very ornamental. The leaves are more delicate than they appear and can be easily injured in garden beds. They are perfect for containers and hypertufa.
5.Euphorbia
This is a large genus with a great deal of variety. Not all Euphorbia are succulents but they do all have a milky sap that can be irritating. Be careful about rubbing your eyes after collecting seeds.
0
1
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) and cauliflower (Brassica oleracea) grow during the cool season, growing from seed to harvest size in as little as 65 days. Although both plants can survive a freeze, extended periods of cold can slow growth or damage the plants. Waiting to plant until the temperatures are right for the best growth, and providing some protection from extreme cold, keeps the plants healthy and productive.
The Big Freeze
Broccoli and cauliflower can usually survive temperatures as low as 26 degrees Fahrenheit with only minor damage to the leaves. They may survive even lower temperatures if they are acclimated, but usually anything below 26 F will kill the plants if the weather was warmer leading up to the cold snap. Temperatures between 31 and 33 F rarely cause any damage to broccoli or cauliflower, although growth may slow if temperatures remain near or below freezing for an extended period.
A Happy Medium
Cauliflower and broccoli grow best between 65 and 80 F. Broccoli grows well when planted in late winter or early spring for an early summer harvest, or in late summer or fall for a late fall or early winter harvest. Cauliflower is more heat sensitive, so it grows better when planted in mid- to late-summer for a fall harvest. Temperatures above 80 F can cause both broccoli and cauliflower to slow their growth, or they may go to seed prematurely without forming large heads.
Hardening Off
Taking a week to harden off new broccoli or cauliflower transplants in spring makes them better able to survive freezing temperatures. Seedlings started indoors are used to warmer temperatures, so a cold snap in the garden is more likely to damage them if they aren't acclimated. Set the seedlings outside in a protected area, such as on a covered patio, seven days before transplanting. Leave the seedlings outside for only four hours the first day, but gradually increase the time outdoors each day until they stay out all day and night by the final day in the hardening off period. If a hard freeze is expected, bring the seedlings indoors and resume hardening off when the temperatures rise.
Protection Pointers
If your broccoli or cauliflower plants are recently transplanted, or if temperatures below 31 F are expected, you can provide protection to prevent freeze damage or plant death. Planting in a cold frame works, because you can close the glass lid on the frame during freezes and then reopen it when the temperature inside the frame rises above 60 F. For a brief cold snap, place an upturned pot over the plants or mulch around the plants with straw to provide some insulation.
The Big Freeze
Broccoli and cauliflower can usually survive temperatures as low as 26 degrees Fahrenheit with only minor damage to the leaves. They may survive even lower temperatures if they are acclimated, but usually anything below 26 F will kill the plants if the weather was warmer leading up to the cold snap. Temperatures between 31 and 33 F rarely cause any damage to broccoli or cauliflower, although growth may slow if temperatures remain near or below freezing for an extended period.
A Happy Medium
Cauliflower and broccoli grow best between 65 and 80 F. Broccoli grows well when planted in late winter or early spring for an early summer harvest, or in late summer or fall for a late fall or early winter harvest. Cauliflower is more heat sensitive, so it grows better when planted in mid- to late-summer for a fall harvest. Temperatures above 80 F can cause both broccoli and cauliflower to slow their growth, or they may go to seed prematurely without forming large heads.
Hardening Off
Taking a week to harden off new broccoli or cauliflower transplants in spring makes them better able to survive freezing temperatures. Seedlings started indoors are used to warmer temperatures, so a cold snap in the garden is more likely to damage them if they aren't acclimated. Set the seedlings outside in a protected area, such as on a covered patio, seven days before transplanting. Leave the seedlings outside for only four hours the first day, but gradually increase the time outdoors each day until they stay out all day and night by the final day in the hardening off period. If a hard freeze is expected, bring the seedlings indoors and resume hardening off when the temperatures rise.
Protection Pointers
If your broccoli or cauliflower plants are recently transplanted, or if temperatures below 31 F are expected, you can provide protection to prevent freeze damage or plant death. Planting in a cold frame works, because you can close the glass lid on the frame during freezes and then reopen it when the temperature inside the frame rises above 60 F. For a brief cold snap, place an upturned pot over the plants or mulch around the plants with straw to provide some insulation.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年06月20日
Soybean, lentil and pinto bean seeds grow rapidly, but the time it takes for a bean seed to germinate depends in part on where it sprouts. Germination of a seed in garden soil is measured from the day the seed is planted until just before its first shoot emerges above the soil. Germination outside the soil in a sprouting jar or other container usually is much shorter. Sometimes this is done as part of a science project or to produce edible sprouts.
Soybeans
Soybeans are a good model for a science germination experiment, because they sprout in three to four days in petri dishes, according to the Science Project Lab website. But Michigan State University notes that germination in the soil takes six to 14 days. Cold and excess or inadequate moisture are among the conditions that can slow germination outdoors. Living Gently Quarterly notes that soybean sprouts are becoming more common in cooking. But it warns not to sprout commercial seeds intended for planting, because they are chemically treated.
Lentils
The Sprout People website says it takes two to three days to germinate lentil seeds in sprouters, which are typically lidded containers with holes for air circulation. If growing in the garden, lentil seeds germinate in about 10 days at 68 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the Harvest to Table website. They are hardy annuals and members of the pea family. Sprouting any bean seed involves a process of soaking and regularly rinsing the seeds until they germinate in a sprouter that is kept out of direct sunlight and stored at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Lentil sprouts can be eaten raw or cooked.
Pinto Beans
In soil, pinto beans germinate in four to eight days, according to the Texas A&M University Extension. But Sprout People says that when germinated in a sprouter, the process only takes 2 to 4 days. Unlike soybean and lentil sprouts, pinto bean sprouts are not edible unless cooked. Sprout People says they add a "delicate sweetness" to soup and that the process of sprouting alleviates some of the gaseousness associated with beans.
Soybeans
Soybeans are a good model for a science germination experiment, because they sprout in three to four days in petri dishes, according to the Science Project Lab website. But Michigan State University notes that germination in the soil takes six to 14 days. Cold and excess or inadequate moisture are among the conditions that can slow germination outdoors. Living Gently Quarterly notes that soybean sprouts are becoming more common in cooking. But it warns not to sprout commercial seeds intended for planting, because they are chemically treated.
Lentils
The Sprout People website says it takes two to three days to germinate lentil seeds in sprouters, which are typically lidded containers with holes for air circulation. If growing in the garden, lentil seeds germinate in about 10 days at 68 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the Harvest to Table website. They are hardy annuals and members of the pea family. Sprouting any bean seed involves a process of soaking and regularly rinsing the seeds until they germinate in a sprouter that is kept out of direct sunlight and stored at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Lentil sprouts can be eaten raw or cooked.
Pinto Beans
In soil, pinto beans germinate in four to eight days, according to the Texas A&M University Extension. But Sprout People says that when germinated in a sprouter, the process only takes 2 to 4 days. Unlike soybean and lentil sprouts, pinto bean sprouts are not edible unless cooked. Sprout People says they add a "delicate sweetness" to soup and that the process of sprouting alleviates some of the gaseousness associated with beans.
0
0
求助
Lucky Coyote
2018年05月15日
What should I fertilize these with? I have some miracle grow, but I don't know what it will do to them
1
0
Lucky Coyote：@meriunkat I don't have any of that specific type 😓 would this one work, or should I wait?
meriunkat：Yeah Miracle-Gro Succulent liquid fertilizer works
文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月15日
A summer squash, the zucchini grows well in most summer vegetable gardens. You only need one zucchini plant to produce fruit, as the plants grow separate male and female flowers on the same plant, which are usually pollinated by bees and other insects. You can also pollinate the flowers by hand if you are growing them in a greenhouse or other area where insect pollination isn't possible. Telling the difference between the male and female blooms ensures you pollinate the zucchini correctly for the maximum amount of fruit at harvest time.
Step 1
Inspect the stems of the flowers. Female flowers have short stems while male flowers have long, thin stems.
Step 2
Look behind the flower for a swollen base. Flowers with the swollen base are female, as this is the ovary that later develops into the zucchini after germination.
Step 3
Find the stamen in the center of suspected male blossoms. Male flowers have a single, long stamen that is covered in pollen, while female blossoms have a stigma with multiple stems inside.
Step 1
Inspect the stems of the flowers. Female flowers have short stems while male flowers have long, thin stems.
Step 2
Look behind the flower for a swollen base. Flowers with the swollen base are female, as this is the ovary that later develops into the zucchini after germination.
Step 3
Find the stamen in the center of suspected male blossoms. Male flowers have a single, long stamen that is covered in pollen, while female blossoms have a stigma with multiple stems inside.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月14日
Potatoes are easy to grow, and the plants can be highly productive if grown under the best conditions. Oklahoma gardeners are fortunate to have a climate well-suited to growing potatoes, and starting your plants at the right time will help make sure your crop is a bountiful one.
Time Frame
Potatoes are considered cool-season vegetables. They are not particularly sensitive to frost, and can be planted earlier than more tender garden plants. You can plant potatoes from mid-February to mid-March. If you live in southern Oklahoma, you should plant during the earlier portion of this range.
Considerations
Potatoes grow best in soil that is well aerated, moist and well drained; avoid compacting the soil. A pH between 5.0 and 5.5 is ideal. Potatoes grow well in sunny conditions, but excessive heat and lack of moisture reduce yield.
Sweet Potatoes
Sweet potatoes are less hardy than regular potatoes, and should be planted between May 1 and June 20.
Time Frame
Potatoes are considered cool-season vegetables. They are not particularly sensitive to frost, and can be planted earlier than more tender garden plants. You can plant potatoes from mid-February to mid-March. If you live in southern Oklahoma, you should plant during the earlier portion of this range.
Considerations
Potatoes grow best in soil that is well aerated, moist and well drained; avoid compacting the soil. A pH between 5.0 and 5.5 is ideal. Potatoes grow well in sunny conditions, but excessive heat and lack of moisture reduce yield.
Sweet Potatoes
Sweet potatoes are less hardy than regular potatoes, and should be planted between May 1 and June 20.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2018年05月14日
Grow fresh vegetables all year in Phoenix. The hot summer sun is a good thing for the right vegetables. Thoughtful garden design protects plants from too much sun. Irrigation and shade are key ingredients to enjoying the fruits and vegetables of your labor through summer's heat.
Irrigation
Irrigating vegetables is a balance of the right amount of water at the right time of day. Thorough watering early in the day provides a reservoir from which plants can draw through the heat of the day. Drip or soaker irrigation is preferred, because water droplets on vegetables or leaves turn into magnifying glasses concentrating sunlight and burning the plant. Overnight watering contributes to molds and soil-transmitted disease. Missing one day's irrigation can kill plants in the summer.
Shade
Peppers, corn, most tomatoes and melons thrive in the heat and sun all day long. Most herbs, basil is an exception, need shade from direct sunlight. Other vegetable plants, such as leeks and eggplant, also need protection from direct afternoon sun. Shade cloths, readily available in the Phoenix area, are easily installed over sensitive plants.
Monsoon
Protect plants from violent summer monsoons and their wind, hail and heavy rain by using poles, stakes or tomato cages to keep plants from breaking during the pummeling. Ensure shade cloth is well anchored and has wind flaps to reduce the chance of it sailing away in the storm.
Dust
Dust on leaves interferes with transpiration. Gently wash dust off leaves with a light spray late in the afternoon or early in the evening. Carefully apply water to leaves and avoid saturating below the soil surface.
Mulch
Mulch benefits the Phoenix vegetable garden by helping retain water and preventing weeds. Chunky mulch, such as a bark, allows airflow at ground level, depressing soil temperature and protecting roots.
Container Gardens
Direct sun turns containers into ovens, baking vegetable roots. Any plant in a container needs to be shaded, beginning at midmorning. Irrigate containers twice a day to maintain a cool soil temperature. Potted soil is less susceptible to disease allowing for the twice-a-day watering.
Irrigation
Irrigating vegetables is a balance of the right amount of water at the right time of day. Thorough watering early in the day provides a reservoir from which plants can draw through the heat of the day. Drip or soaker irrigation is preferred, because water droplets on vegetables or leaves turn into magnifying glasses concentrating sunlight and burning the plant. Overnight watering contributes to molds and soil-transmitted disease. Missing one day's irrigation can kill plants in the summer.
Shade
Peppers, corn, most tomatoes and melons thrive in the heat and sun all day long. Most herbs, basil is an exception, need shade from direct sunlight. Other vegetable plants, such as leeks and eggplant, also need protection from direct afternoon sun. Shade cloths, readily available in the Phoenix area, are easily installed over sensitive plants.
Monsoon
Protect plants from violent summer monsoons and their wind, hail and heavy rain by using poles, stakes or tomato cages to keep plants from breaking during the pummeling. Ensure shade cloth is well anchored and has wind flaps to reduce the chance of it sailing away in the storm.
Dust
Dust on leaves interferes with transpiration. Gently wash dust off leaves with a light spray late in the afternoon or early in the evening. Carefully apply water to leaves and avoid saturating below the soil surface.
Mulch
Mulch benefits the Phoenix vegetable garden by helping retain water and preventing weeds. Chunky mulch, such as a bark, allows airflow at ground level, depressing soil temperature and protecting roots.
Container Gardens
Direct sun turns containers into ovens, baking vegetable roots. Any plant in a container needs to be shaded, beginning at midmorning. Irrigate containers twice a day to maintain a cool soil temperature. Potted soil is less susceptible to disease allowing for the twice-a-day watering.
0
0
